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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:34:30 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 17:34:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #71
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 16 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 071

In This Issue:
Re: What's it worth?
Engine identity
Re: Driveline Vibrations
Re: Engine identity
Re: Engine identity
tilt steering
Re: Ammeter
Re: 300 six Flywheel Question Answered
Re: Ammeter
Re: 1975-1977 Box swap
Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Break In Oil
Wiring Diagram needed
KC List Members?
tilting suspension
F100 parts needed
77 F100 questions
Re: HEADERS
Re: Engine identity
Re: 77 F100 questions
headliner
Re: Engine identity
T-Shirts
Vibs
Re: headliner
292/390 bellhousing
Flywheel bolt pattern
Re: Break In Oil
Re: Break In Oil
Re: Vibs
Re: Ammeter
Re: 360 2V carb problem corrected
Re: Engine identity
Jumping to Conclusions
Racing Update
Re: Engine identity
rear axle decoding
Re: Pictures of A/C Setup

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: What's it worth?
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 21:27:24 -0400


Engine seized due to sitting (verified by my rebuilder, a guy I trust). This
is also borne out by the condition of the bearings
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
HI
if you want to TRY to save this engine there is some stuff called KROIL made
by KANO labs in NASHVILLE TENN. thats supposed to be EXCELLANT for just this
type of thing i have a friend who is a engine rebuilder and says he has had
them bought from junk yards thats been setting for years and after a good
soaking with this stuff they are free as a new one and run without needing
rebuilt
couldnt hurt to try the stuff really and could ave an engine rebuild it can
be bought directly from the MFGR also
they are on the net as well
i have no stock or interest in this company either or anything to gain at
all just trying to help a fellow enthusist
gordon
79 f100
69 f100
62 t bird


------------------------------

From: "Wallen, Jason ABH1" emh1.lincoln.navy.mil>
Subject: Engine identity
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 18:44:29 -0700

Friends,

I bought a 76 F150 4 x 4 about 6 months ago and I was told the
engine in the truck was a 390. However recently I have become unsure if it
is actually a 390. Where would I look on the block to verify the CU of the
engine. I remember they used to place the displacement on the heads, but it
has been a long time since I've turned wrenches. If anyone could give me
advise I'd appreciate it.

NC1(AW) WALLEN, J.M.
USS ABRAHAM LINCOLN(CVN72)
CCC/AIR DEPT CC
WK #(425)304-5084(CCC)/DSN 727-5084
HM# (360)658-6622


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Driveline Vibrations
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 22:17:09 -0400




> Curtis Palmer desupernet.net> Wrote,
>
> > Today, I had the drive shafts balanced and the problem is still there.
> > I even tried rotating the shafts 90 degrees but that made it worse.
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
HI CURTIS
i havent been paying a whole lot of attention to your drive line vibration
BUT if you have a CARRIER bearing in this system that could be the trouble
tho they will create a lot of vibrations when they go bad
gordon


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Engine identity
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 22:40:24 -0400

> Friends,
>
> I bought a 76 F150 4 x 4 about 6 months ago and I was told the
> engine in the truck was a 390.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
HI
the only SURE WAY is to measure the bore and the stroke of it MOST LIKELY
its a 360 i bet thats a 390 bore with a 352 stroke[crank& rods}i had the
same problem year ago myself there is another way also you would need to
look at the rear of the crank tho if it has i think 5 drilled and tapped
holes [maybe 6 ] and then one other one that is just only drilled FOR SURE
its a 390 other than that they did stamp it on the pistons allot to BUT
being a 390 bore at times they did use the 390 pistons instead of the 360s
all depended on if they were readily available or not on the asembly line
BUT they all used the 390 heads tho even the 352s used them
gordon


------------------------------

From: "Wallen, Jason ABH1" emh1.lincoln.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Engine identity
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 20:02:42 -0700



> HI
> the only SURE WAY is to measure the bore and the stroke of it MOST LIKELY
> its a 360 i bet thats a 390 bore with a 352 stroke[crank& rods}i had the
> same problem year ago myself there is another way also you would need to
> look at the rear of the crank tho if it has i think 5 drilled and tapped
> holes [maybe 6 ] and then one other one that is just only drilled FOR SURE
> its a 390 other than that they did stamp it on the pistons allot to BUT
> being a 390 bore at times they did use the 390 pistons instead of the 360s
> all depended on if they were readily available or not on the asembly line
> BUT they all used the 390 heads tho even the 352s used them
> gordon
>
[Wallen, Jason NC1] Thanks

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 00:04:15 EDT
Subject: tilt steering

i have located a tilt wheel in a 78 xlt lariat, 2 wheel drive. can this
wheel be adapted to my 4 wheel drive, the truck also has cruise control and
i'd like to put it all on mine

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 00:31:50 EDT
Subject: Re: Ammeter

Every Ford Ammeter Ive seen is very unresponsive. The most Ive ever seen one
move is maybe the needles width either way. However, in my '79 Bronco I had
the cluster out for maintenance and decided to level out the meter (was
installed cocked at an angle from the factory). To do that I had to loosen
the bolts that both mount it and provide the current for measurement. After
this, it was much better and more responsive for a while. Im suspecting
oxidation on the nuts & flex PCB. Maybe next time Ill use some finger nail
polish as a sealant. Should help to reduce any oxidation problems.

Im not sure what everyone else has seen, but that's my experiences with two
Fords a '73 F100 & a '79 Bronco.

George in Fl



In a message dated 4/16/2000 12:35:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
tneasham 3-cities.com writes:

> Tom H:
>
> I'd love to know what to modify to get my ammeter working correctly. I
> annoys the bejeezus out of me that it's stuck on 0. I'm kinda anal about
> things like that. If it's there, it's supposed to work. Don't ask, I'm a
> nit-picky SOB. lol Thanks in advance for your help with the gauge.
>
>
> Tim Neasham
> Benton City, Washington
> '69 F-250 Camper Special
>

------------------------------

From: davewild tc3net.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 04:33:20 GMT
Subject: Re: 300 six Flywheel Question Answered

Only lines up one way. Got it on and got it running.

Thank You Everyone

Dave Wild
78 F150 300, 3 on the tree


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 22:08:44 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Re: Ammeter

My ammeter also doesn't move. I'm glad to hear that others are
experiencing the same less-than-optimal performance . Not glad in the
sense that I enjoy hearing of others' misfortunes, but reassured that my
Ford is not so inferior that other Ford owners would snear at and spit
upon it.

I will try some of the remedies GMontgo930 mentions, to see if I can get
the thing to perform as it's supposed to. I'm not anal or nit-picky
about it, and it's not high on my list of things that need correcting,
but my feeling is that if it's going to be there on the dash, it should
get its act together and perform like the other instruments do.



GMontgo930 aol.com wrote:
>
> Every Ford Ammeter Ive seen is very unresponsive. The most Ive ever seen one
> move is maybe the needles width either way. However, in my '79 Bronco I had
> the cluster out for maintenance and decided to level out the meter (was
> installed cocked at an angle from the factory). To do that I had to loosen
> the bolts that both mount it and provide the current for measurement. After
> this, it was much better and more responsive for a while. Im suspecting
> oxidation on the nuts & flex PCB. Maybe next time Ill use some finger nail
> polish as a sealant. Should help to reduce any oxidation problems.
>
> Im not sure what everyone else has seen, but that's my experiences with two
> Fords a '73 F100 & a '79 Bronco.
>
> George in Fl
>
> In a message dated 4/16/2000 12:35:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> tneasham 3-cities.com writes:
>
> > Tom H:
> >
> > I'd love to know what to modify to get my ammeter working correctly. I
> > annoys the bejeezus out of me that it's stuck on 0. I'm kinda anal about
> > things like that. If it's there, it's supposed to work. Don't ask, I'm a
> > nit-picky SOB. lol Thanks in advance for your help with the gauge.
> >
> >
> > Tim Neasham
> > Benton City, Washington
> > '69 F-250 Camper Special

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 02:12:48 EDT
Subject: Re: 1975-1977 Box swap

In a message dated 4/16/2000 6:07:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:

> From: "mike schuh" hotmail.com>
> Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 16:27:56 CDT
>
> the cab & front clip will bolt up.you might have to drill different holes
> for the box. wire harness will also work from 2 wheel drive you will have
to

I know the '77 frame was a little different than other years (or was that 3/4
ton 4x4 only?) but I think the box bolts will be okay. When I put the '87
box on my '78 it bolted right up. The PO of the '87 box had it on a '76 and
I was able to use his holes with no problem.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4

------------------------------

From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 09:01:19 -0400

I've got them buried right now. I try and dig them out and get them posted.

There are different A/C setups for these trucks (as far as pulleys go). I
used Stu's equipment except the brackets and pulleys.

The one that came with my '68 originally had a big plate that bolted to the
front of the block that held and idler pully for tensioning and had a flat
plate to permanently mount the compressor welded to it. All belt
adjustments for mine are through the idler pulley.

I'll try and dig Stu's out and take some pics of mine and get them posted.
Give me a couple of days though.

Later,

-Ted

-----Original Message-----
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, April 15, 2000 7:05 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Pictures of A/C Setup


>Ted Freeman has all my pictures as well as AC unit on his truck now. It
>was from a 71 with factory air.
>
>Ted, you listening??? I did send you some pics didn't I?
>
>Stu
>Nuke GM!
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm
>
>
>At 06:17 PM 4/15/00 -0400, you wrote:
>>Anybody have any pictures of How the A/c Compressor is mounted on an FE
>>motor
>>with all the pullies and brackets...Anybody with a digital camera and a
>>A/C FE Truck????
>>Joe
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Break In Oil
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 09:12:54 -0400

It won't be long before my 410 will be ready for it's mainden firing and I
need some advice on break in oil. My cam manufacturer is recommending an SE
or SF grade oil. All I can find is SJ or SH. The parts guy said as long as
lettering was above SE or SF I would be fine.

What do you guys think?

This will be my first engine run in and want to make sure things go as
planned.

-Ted


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 09:13 -0400
From: BECKER-JEFFREY macktrucks.com>
Subject: Wiring Diagram needed

--- Received from MACDGA.JB1882H 301-790-5580 00-04-17 09:13

Greetings fellow Forders,
I recently purchased a '77 F100 Custom "Explorer" longbed
which unfortunately has had its electrical system butchered by the
PO. There must be two dozen hacked, spliced, and twisted wires
under the dash. I am in need of the wiring diagram for this truck
listing wire color codes. A faxed Xerox copy will do. Please email
me if you can help at which time I'll give you my number. Or,
I would gladly pay for postage and handling for a copy. Thank
You!!

Jeff - Charles Town, WV


PS: believe it or not it actually runs with this rats nest.

PPS: it has a 351W (I believe) automatic with AC system removed.

---- 00-04-17 09:13 ---- Sent to ---------------------------
-> 61-79-list(a)ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 08:21:18 -0500
From: "Kelley McDaniel" mercuryems.com>
Subject: KC List Members?

>Anyone here near KC?

>I'm going to be in Overland Park between Saturday 16th and Monday 18th.

I'm reading this from within the local dialing area.

>Remember though, you've got to bring your truck to qualify for the free meal!
>Actually this really isn't true, just a picture will do!!!!!!!!!

>CJ (Colorado Jeff)

Good thing . . . the tow bill would be more than the meal. :-) I'll call your cell phone.

Kelley in Kansas




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 08:28:28 -0600
Subject: tilting suspension
From: "Rusty Nail" mmgworldwide.com>

My 77 explorer is starting to tilt to the driver side and I'm sure that I
still have the original suspension from factory. Here's my question, if I
change springs does anybody on the list has recommendations on types of
springs, bushings, shocks etc. Also wondering, while I'm doing this is there
anything I should change out or look to change out while I'm doing the
other.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 09:32 -0400
From: BECKER-JEFFREY macktrucks.com>
Subject: F100 parts needed

--- Received from MACDGA.JB1882H 301-790-5580 00-04-17 09:32

Greetings again,
Here is a short list of miscellaneous parts I am looking for:

1) Tailgate latch - right side
2) Glove box dome light and switch
3) Interior dome light
4) ashtray (prefer blue)
5) Brake pedal rubber pad
6) Steering wheel horn pad (prefer blue or black)
7) Front bumper rub strip - left side.
8) Starter switch (on steering column?) from manual tranny truck
because mine is an automatic converted from column shift to floor
shift and the park safety gizmo is all buggered-up.


None of these need be mint - just functional. I'm not doing a
restoration, just putting together a decent work truck.

Please LMK if you have leads on any of these. Thanks,

Jeff ('77 F100 Explorer)

---- 00-04-17 09:32 ---- Sent to ---------------------------
-> 61-79-list(a)ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 09:44 -0400
From: BECKER-JEFFREY macktrucks.com>
Subject: 77 F100 questions

--- Received from MACDGA.JB1882H 301-790-5580 00-04-17 09:44

RE: 1977 F100 Custom Explorer


all right, I know this is my third email in one day and you're all
probably getting tired of me, but this is it...for now:

Questions:

1) How do I identify the engine? The PO claimed it is a 351W. Is
there something to look for on the block? Also, is there someplace
on the chassis to see if it is original?

2) Manual to power brakes? This is a manual brakes truck.
SCAAARY!! Can I just add a vacuum booster behind the existing
master cylinder (which is new) or isn't it that simple?

3) Dual gas tanks?? There is a slot on the right side of the HVAC
controls which is labeled "Fuel/Aux". Looks like it had a switch
there at one time. Is this for duel tanks? Or was there a reserve
cell within the main tank? I only see one fuel filler flap on the
left rear of my truck.

Thanks Mucho, Jeff, Charles Town, WV

---- 00-04-17 09:44 ---- Sent to ---------------------------
-> 61-79-list(a)ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 13:58:16 GMT
Subject: Re: HEADERS

>does any one know the part numbers or years of CYCLONE HEADERS that will fit

>a 69 f 100 with a 390 in it i have a good chance to buy a set but all i know

>for sure is they wont fit a 77 f 100 because of the frame clearence being to

>close is all other than that my only option is using stock exhaust from the

>manifolds and locally they want over a 100.00 for the 2 pipes here for duals


Uhm, I had a set of these on my 73ish 4x4 ... the pass. side header splits into
2 pieces and slips back together once on the truck ... as for not fitting a
77 ... no idea here, I know frames changed, but they didn't have FE's in them
when the frames changed from what I've read/seen so dunno... the Sanderson
headers are another option, but they're pretty pricey ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 14:00:47 GMT
Subject: Re: Engine identity

> I bought a 76 F150 4 x 4 about 6 months ago and I was told the
>engine in the truck was a 390. However recently I have become unsure if it

>is actually a 390. Where would I look on the block to verify the CU of the

>engine. I remember they used to place the displacement on the heads, but it

>has been a long time since I've turned wrenches. If anyone could give me
>advise I'd appreciate it.
>

Unfortunately you can't look at the block, someone else's assumption that they
used the same bore is correct, they are both a 4.05" bore from the factory.
This means the stroke is different. There has been some talk of a dowel method
of determining the stroke without pulling the motor ...

pull the #1 plug and put the crank at TDC, put a dowell in the plug hole until
it hits the piston and then mark the dowell.

Then rotate the motor 180 degrees, and put the dowell in again, make another
mark.

The distance between the marks should be pretty close to the stroke. If its
3.5" or so then its a 360, if its 3.75" or so its a 390 ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 14:08:17 GMT
Subject: Re: 77 F100 questions


>1) How do I identify the engine? The PO claimed it is a 351W. Is
>there something to look for on the block? Also, is there someplace
>on the chassis to see if it is original?
>

You can find the engine code in the VIN, put the VIN in one of the decoders
and you can find lots of stuff, I think there's one on the FTE site (www.ford-trucks.com)
.. sorry I don't know 77 engine codes off the top of my head.

A 351W I don't think was a factory option though, usually you got the M if you
got a 351... one thing to check is the valve covers, there is usually a sticker
on the driver's side that lists engine family, it won't necessarily list the
size, or it will list multiple sizes, this just gives you an idea when you go
to get parts anyway ...

once you get the family nailed down we can probably tell you which motor it
is ... or if you think its original, just let us know what the VIN is and we
can probably pick it out for you if you can't find the decoder online...


>3) Dual gas tanks?? There is a slot on the right side of the HVAC
>controls which is labeled "Fuel/Aux". Looks like it had a switch
>there at one time. Is this for duel tanks? Or was there a reserve
>cell within the main tank? I only see one fuel filler flap on the
>left rear of my truck.
>

Likely it was for dual tanks ... and I think that switch was just for the fuel
guage, so if you don't see dual tanks under your truck, or a lever/knob on the
floor of the cab next to your driver's seat, then it probably is a new heater
control from another truck that had dual tanks, hence the missing switch.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Wallen, Jason ABH1" emh1.lincoln.navy.mil>
Subject: headliner
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 07:08:19 -0700



Does anyone have a good link, address, or phone number for a good place to
buy a new headliner for a 76 f150.

Jason

------------------------------

From: "Wallen, Jason ABH1" emh1.lincoln.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Engine identity
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 08:27:25 -0700

> Unfortunately you can't look at the block, someone else's assumption that
> they
> used the same bore is correct, they are both a 4.05" bore from the
> factory.
> This means the stroke is different. There has been some talk of a dowel
> method
> of determining the stroke without pulling the motor ...
>
> pull the #1 plug and put the crank at TDC, put a dowell in the plug hole
> until
> it hits the piston and then mark the dowell.
>
> Then rotate the motor 180 degrees, and put the dowell in again, make
> another
> mark.
>
> The distance between the marks should be pretty close to the stroke. If
> its
> 3.5" or so then its a 360, if its 3.75" or so its a 390 ...
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
>
[Wallen, Jason NC1]

Thanks for your reply, In my ignorance I was worried about buying
the right intake manifold for my engine. It has been over a decade since
I've done any serious engine work. Prior to that I owned a 69 mustang
Fastback that was handed down to my from my dad so I knew the previous
history of the engine, (351w). After I asked the question of determining the
displacement I went back to the Edlebrock web page and realized my
ignorance. Your method seems the easiest way to determine the engine. I live
in an apartment and to perform any engine work I have to travel to the Navy
base auto hobby shop. I plan on installing a Edlebrock 600 cfm 4bbl,
performer intake manifold, timing chain and gears, and of the associated
chrome. Unfortunately I am due to transfer to Japan in October or I would
also put on Hooker headers and do the lift big tires thing.

Jas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 11:45:56 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski ford-trucks.com>
Subject: T-Shirts

I've found it hard to find any '61-'66 t-shirts and such. Here's a place
that's got a bunch of Ford Truck and other Ford shirts.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://printweargraphics.safeshopper.com/35/cat35.htm?724

Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
' 63 F-100
parts truck

W/more kidney stones in tow

------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Vibs
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 11:58:07 -0400

Curtis P. writes: >>Hello, my name is Curtis Palmer. I am new to this
list and am pretty new
around Ford trucks. Now the question. I have a 76 F150 Super Cab 2X4 that
recently had a u-joint sieze up causing a whole mess of damage to the rest
of the drivetrain. As it siezed up it messed up the pinion bearing, seal
and the bushing and seal in the trans tailshaft housing. I can't get the
vibrations to go away between 40-50 mph.

To try to remedy this I have replaced all the u-joints (2 piece
driveshaft), pinion bearing and seal, the big bearing where the 2 shafts
come together, bushing and seal in the trans. Also, had the tires
re-balanced and rotated. Today, I had the drive shafts balanced and the
problem is still there. I even tried rotating the shafts 90 degrees but
that made it worse.


If anybody has any insight as to what the problem might be, please e-mail
me ASAP. Thanks.<<

Welcome to the list.
I'd bet you have a slightly bent drive shaft... Which piece (front or
rear) came loose?? You'd think they would have checked them for
straightness when they balanced them, but who knows.. Seems as you've done
everything else.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:03:24 -0600
From: William Whited ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: headliner

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.longmotor.com/fordcats.html

Great site with lots of hard to find pieces.

William Whited
74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX
Semper Fi



------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: 292/390 bellhousing
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 12:00:19 -0400

BKP writes: >>Does anyone know if the bellhousing pattern off a 1955 292
V8 3/4 ton truck
is the same as the FE block pattern? Thinking about the possibility of
upgrading the 292 for a 390, was wondering if the old tranny would bolt to
it or not, and if pilot bearing etc. would even allow it.<<

Not the same.. Each are unique to their type. 292 is Y block series..
390 is FE series..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Flywheel bolt pattern
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 12:05:57 -0400

Someone writes: >>Does anyone kmow if the flywheel on a 300 six cylinder
engine has to be bolted to the crank a certain way? I unbolted mine while
working on the engine out of the
truck, and I noticed that it had a heavy spot(one side was always ending up
at the
bottom when I put it on my trans input shaft). I also noticed a dimple in
the end
of the crank and wondered if there was a reason it was there. I don't know
if you
have to watch out for those being balanced. Any help would be nice.<<

I'm pretty sure you can't get it on but one way. I know that is true of
the FE and 385 series, and I suspect it is of the 300 I6. I've got one,
but have never had the flywheel off. You usually can't get all the bolts
in unless it is on correctly, so you may have to rotate it a few times to
find the correct alignment...

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 12:10:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Break In Oil

In a message dated 4/17/00 6:12:59 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
oldparts ford-trucks.com writes:

< < What do you guys think? > >

I suggest just regular old 30wt Valvoline. Then after 5000 miles, switch
over to a good Synthetic, like Mobil 1.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"

------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Break In Oil
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 09:42:49 -0700

Crower recommends 30 or 40 wt SD or SE. I believe the parts guy is right
about the letters, it just depends on the year the info was printed. The
thing that's important according to Crower is that you should use the single
vis not multi vis for the added "shear resistance" during break in. They
also highly recommend using an "oil conditioner".

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: Ted and Sarah Freeman ford-trucks.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 6:12 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Break In Oil


> It won't be long before my 410 will be ready for it's mainden firing and I
> need some advice on break in oil. My cam manufacturer is recommending an
SE
> or SF grade oil. All I can find is SJ or SH. The parts guy said as long
as
> lettering was above SE or SF I would be fine.
>
> What do you guys think?
>
> This will be my first engine run in and want to make sure things go as
> planned.




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 13:08:14 -0400
From: Curtis Palmer desupernet.net>
Subject: Re: Vibs

Azie,
Thanks. I'm gonna take them off again and have them balanced again by
someone else. I think this may be the problem also.

Curtis


At 11:58 AM 04/17/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Curtis P. writes: >>Hello, my name is Curtis Palmer. I am new to this
>list and am pretty new
>around Ford trucks. Now the question. I have a 76 F150 Super Cab 2X4 that
>recently had a u-joint sieze up causing a whole mess of damage to the rest
>of the drivetrain. As it siezed up it messed up the pinion bearing, seal
>and the bushing and seal in the trans tailshaft housing. I can't get the
>vibrations to go away between 40-50 mph.
>
>To try to remedy this I have replaced all the u-joints (2 piece
>driveshaft), pinion bearing and seal, the big bearing where the 2 shafts
>come together, bushing and seal in the trans. Also, had the tires
>re-balanced and rotated. Today, I had the drive shafts balanced and the
>problem is still there. I even tried rotating the shafts 90 degrees but
>that made it worse.
>
>
>If anybody has any insight as to what the problem might be, please e-mail
>me ASAP. Thanks.<<
>
>Welcome to the list.
>I'd bet you have a slightly bent drive shaft... Which piece (front or
>rear) came loose?? You'd think they would have checked them for
>straightness when they balanced them, but who knows.. Seems as you've done
>everything else.
>
>Azie Magnusson
>Ardmore, Al
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 10:21:11 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Ammeter

What are you, a Virgo...?

All it took to solve the same problem when I installed the ammeter in my
'62 was to re-check all the connections. I am using some heavy gauge solid
wire that, for some unknown reason, has a problem with making a "good"
connection. Anyway, after going back and re-tightening and checking every
connection, Voila! It started working properly...

Of course, it could just be the radiation we're exposed to around here...

Thanks for your message at 09:34 PM 4/15/00 -0700, Tim Neasham. Your
message was:
>Tom H:
>
>I'd love to know what to modify to get my ammeter working correctly. I
>annoys the bejeezus out of me that it's stuck on 0. I'm kinda anal about
>things like that.


Dennis L. Pearson

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson.index.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ctc.edu/~dpearson/popcult.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/lyrics.htm
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/dlp.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 15:26:03 -0400
From: Becky & Greg sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 360 2V carb problem corrected

> 75 Supercab 360 2V auto has developed a problem with idle speed.
> > After it is warmed up I can kick off the fast idle with no problem.
> > Sometimes though it revs back up to fast idle speed while driving
> > requiring that I shove it into neutral and kick it back down(sometimes
>
>
> The high idle on the
> carb should be controlled by a cam operated by the choke. If this is not
> being pulled off properly then the choke could be coming back on after
> warmup. I would try to investiate this. IN A SAFE MANNER, the next time it
> happens pull into a parking lot and pop the hood. Pull the air cleaner lid
> and check that the choke is fully off. You could also shut the engine down
> and then pull the air cleaner assembly and check the linkage to the fast
> idle. If it consistently goes to fast idle when cold but intermittently
> goes to fast idle when hot I don't see how it could be the choke linkage.
>
> Look on the intake manifold. My FE (4V) has a fitting on the manifold next
> to the thermostat. There are 3 vacuum hoses going to the fitting. It is a
> temperature activated switch. The 3 hoses should connect it to the
> distributor advance, the manifold vacuum, and to a ported vacuum source on
> the carb. Its function is to increase the idle by connecting the vacuum
> advance of the distributor to manifold vacuum when engine temp goes above a
> certain level. You could check this by pulling the vacuum advance hose when
> the engine is exhibiting the high idle problem. If the idle goes down this
> is it. On mine it will increase the idle but not enough to cause
> drivability or control problems.
>
> Also check all throttle linkages for looseness or binding.
>
> Let us know how it goes and good luck.
>
> Tom H.
>

Once again I thank all for their responses. I did check all as suggested and
discovered a minor binding on the accellerator linkage. Cleaned and straightened and
no more problem.

> Greg

75 supercab 360 C6
79 300 C6

>
> ------------------------------
>


------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:35:41 GMT
Subject: Re: Engine identity

>I was worried about buying
>the right intake manifold for my engine. It has been over a decade since
>I've done any serious engine work. Prior to that I owned a 69 mustang
>Fastback that was handed down to my from my dad so I knew the previous
>history of the engine, (351w).

wow, love those cars :) Mom's still got the one she bought new sitting in the
garage with the same 351 in it that left the factory and no, the valve covers
have never been off.

Anyway the 351W is one of those you have to get an intake specific to the motor
for as it doesn't share with any of its family, the 360/390/428 etc does however
share as you found out.


>I plan on installing a Edlebrock 600 cfm 4bbl,
>performer intake manifold, timing chain and gears, and of the associated
>chrome. Unfortunately I am due to transfer to Japan in October or I would
>also put on Hooker headers and do the lift big tires thing.
>

Get someone to help you pull that stock intake manifold, its cast and huge,
so its got a lot of weight and of course its a weird angle to lift from. Not
sayin it can't be done, just that its hard on your back ... I was lucky enough
building my motor to be able to use an engine hoist to lower it on there, otherwise
I'd just had someone help me with it. The aluminum one should be easier, though
putting the hose on between the waterpump and the manifold can be a trick too
... if you do all this stuff at once it might be easier, though it will take
a while. I did the timing chain and gears one night in the garage by myself,
but that was rushing a bit.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 15:49:57 -0400
From: Becky & Greg sympatico.ca>
Subject: Jumping to Conclusions

Just when I was getting a little too arrogant about my mechanical knowledge I just
had a humbling experience. I grossly misdiagnosed what I believed to be a timing
problem on my 79 f100 300 I6, C6. After driving at highway speeds for about an hour I
noticed I had used about twice the fuel I normally do. I stopped and fueled up and
couldn't get it restarted. I had to advance the timing dramatically then it ran fine.
I adjusted the carb and decided that one of the timing gears had lost teeth (no
timing chain in the 300). Just by luck I mentioned this to a far more knowledgable
person than myself who suggested checking the ignition system. Sure enough the coil
had leaked. I changed the coil, readjusted the timing and away it went. I have for
years thought that a coil was good or dead. I guess there are a number of morals to
the story and I am going to remind myself again and again to check more thoroughly
before jumping to conclusions.

Greg
75 Supercab 360 C6
79 F100 300 I6 C6 (with a new coil)


------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:56:04 GMT
Subject: Racing Update

Well it was another weekend of racing. This time I ran the truck on the g-tech
the night before and then raced the car.

I was a little disappointed with the truck, 89 octane running about 7 degrees
of advance and all I could pull was a 17.43 80.5 ... real numbers are closer
to 17.6 78 or so ... these are G-tech times which are off a bit from track times,
but still give you an idea anyway (as much as anything can)... I suppose that's
not bad for a full size 4x4, but I was hoping for a bit better than 220hp from
my motor ... I'm going to probably try and re-tune a bit and some 93 octane
to see if I can bring that time down much, maybe I can actually get the advance
where it needs to be with a bit more octane?

Anyway then yesterday we fought wind and rain and cold and managed to run another
autocross :)

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Racing/diary.html#Apr16

That should get you the gist of it, and the specifics off of the links there.
There're several interesting mpgs. One is of a Mystic Cobra who does a spin
getting into the slalom, the other couple are me driving, the first one is how
to go fast, the second one is how to make amazing saves and turn a slow time
...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Wallen, Jason ABH1" emh1.lincoln.navy.mil>
Subject: Re: Engine identity
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 13:03:43 -0700


> Anyway the 351W is one of those you have to get an intake specific to the
> motor
> for as it doesn't share with any of its family, the 360/390/428 etc does
> however
> share as you found out.
>
[Wallen, Jason NC1] Working on the 351 was many years ago, I was
referring to my new hobby the 76 f150 with the 360-390.

> >I plan on installing a Edlebrock 600 cfm 4bbl,
> >performer intake manifold, timing chain and gears, and of the associated
> >chrome. Unfortunately I am due to transfer to Japan in October or I would
> >also put on Hooker headers and do the lift big tires thing.
> >
>
> Get someone to help you pull that stock intake manifold, its cast and
> huge,
> so its got a lot of weight and of course its a weird angle to lift from.
> Not
> sayin it can't be done, just that its hard on your back ... I was lucky
> enough
> building my motor to be able to use an engine hoist to lower it on there,
> otherwise
> I'd just had someone help me with it. The aluminum one should be easier,
> though
> putting the hose on between the waterpump and the manifold can be a trick
> too
> ... if you do all this stuff at once it might be easier, though it will
> take
> a while. I did the timing chain and gears one night in the garage by
> myself,
> but that was rushing a bit.
>
[Wallen, Jason NC1] A long time ago I had a car made my someone
other than ford and I dropped a olds 350 rocket in it. I soon learned how
heavy cast intakes and heads were. For this venture I planned on removing
the hood and using a lift to take off the heavy parts. Every since
contracting arthritis I don't play strong man anymore. Thanks for the
impute.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 16:44:04 -0400
From: Becky & Greg sympatico.ca>
Subject: rear axle decoding

I had to remove the plate from my differential to read it.
Can anyone decode this for me or direct me to a soarce?

WDM CJ 8LA
2 75 9 356A

Thanks
Greg
75 Supercab 360 C6
79 F100 300 I6 C6


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2000 18:33:18 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis p3.net>
Subject: Re: Pictures of A/C Setup

Thanks TED
Joe

Ted and Sarah Freeman wrote:

> I've got them buried right now. I try and dig them out and get them posted.
>
> There are different A/C setups for these trucks (as far as pulleys go). I
> used Stu's equipment except the brackets and pulleys.
>
> The one that came with my '68 originally had a big plate that bolted to the
> front of the block that held and idler pully for tensioning and had a flat
> plate to permanently mount the compressor welded to it. All belt
> adjustments for mine are through the idler pulley.
>
> I'll try and dig Stu's out and take some pics of mine and get them posted.
> Give me a couple of days though.
>
> Later,....


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