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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Sun, 16 Apr 2000 20:02:35 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 20:02:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #70
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61-79-list Digest Sat, 15 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 070

In This Issue:
Re: 300 six Flywheel Question
BBQ in Kansas City area (where FTE types need to go)
Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Rear end question
Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Ammeter
headers and scattershield needed
Re: Rear end question
Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Re: Ammeter
Re: Engine Finally Done
Driveline Vibrations
Re: Farm and Ranch Special
Re: 1975-1977 Box swap
What's it worth?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: 300 six Flywheel Question
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 18:46:38 -0400

> Does anyone kmow if the flywheel on a 300 six cylinder
> engine has to be bolted to the crank a certain way? I
> unbolted mine while working on the engine out of the
> truck, and I noticed that it had a heavy spot(one side was
> always ending up at the bottom when I put it on my trans
> input shaft). I also noticed a dimple in the end of the crank
> and wondered if there was a reason it was there. I don't
> know if you have to watch out for those being balanced.
> Any help would be nice.

I dont know about your 300-I6, but as I understand it, they
are internally balanced, and the flywheel is weighted to properly
offset and balance the vibration damper in the front. From
the experiences I have had with my 300-I6, there is only one
way to put the flywheel on and have the holes in the flywheel
line up with the ones in the end of the crank. Any other position,
and at least 2 of them will not line up (the holes are not spaced
exactly the same from one another ...)




------------------------------

From: "Redden" enter.net>
Subject: BBQ in Kansas City area (where FTE types need to go)
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 19:19:40 -0400

CJ:

Close to where you're staying (at I435 and State Line Road) is
Kansas City Masterpiece BBQ (for tourists but good).
At 135th Street (right on the Kansas and MO border)
is Keegans and a few blocks west at Holmes and at
135th is the Smokehouse BBQ. Both are real
KC BBQ. Great ribs (pork not "baby back")
and good beans and sausage. Great slabs of
pork smoked at a minimum of 24hours.
If you want steak, right on 135th street too,
is Jess and Jim's Steakhouse
(real angus aged beef no shortage of that in CO, though.)
In KC proper is Bryants (the oldest in town)
and on the KC Kansas side (SW Blvd.)
is The Rosedale.

I've driven my FORD TRUCKS to all of these
joints (not to mention Mustangs and Cougars)!

Have fun! I'm drooling just thinkin' about it....

Mike in PA (formerly 25 years in the state of MO)





------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 19:10:49 -0500
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of A/C Setup

Ted Freeman has all my pictures as well as AC unit on his truck now. It
was from a 71 with factory air.

Ted, you listening??? I did send you some pics didn't I?

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm


At 06:17 PM 4/15/00 -0400, you wrote:
>Anybody have any pictures of How the A/c Compressor is mounted on an FE
>motor
>with all the pullies and brackets...Anybody with a digital camera and a
>A/C FE Truck????
>Joe

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of A/C Setup
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 18:20:14 -0700



>
> Anybody have any pictures of How the A/c Compressor is
> mounted on an FE
> motor
> with all the pullies and brackets...Anybody with a digital
> camera and a
> A/C FE Truck????
> Joe
>

I have a 76 with an FE and AC. I would be happy to take some pics for you
but I'm in CA for the rest of the week and won't be back at the homestead
till a week from Monday. If you can wait that long I'll try to help you
out.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "sean michael bishop" hotmail.com>
Subject: Rear end question
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 23:06:22 EDT

Hi all. I have a few questions. Does anyone know what gear ratios came stock
in the Dana 60 1 ton rear end? I just purchased a 68 F-350 stepside long bed
With a granny 4-speed and 300 HD. Id like to swap out the engine. Any
suggestions on powerplants? Would a 351W be too small? Would a C6 handle
that rearend plus a 2000 lb cargo? Oh well any help would be appreciated.
Andy
79 F-150 fleetside
78 F-150 w/ 308 ci HD inline 6
68 F350 Longbed Stepside (My new toy)
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:03:06 -0700
From: Don Grossman mac.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of A/C Setup

>Anybody have any pictures of How the A/c Compressor is mounted on an FE
>motor
>with all the pullies and brackets...Anybody with a digital camera and a
>A/C FE Truck????
>Joe

If you can wait until Sunday boy do I have a picture for you ;)
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

43 GPW
63 F-100 4x4
77 F250
99 Contour

------------------------------

From: "Tim Neasham" 3-cities.com>
Subject: Ammeter
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:34:22 -0700

Tom H:

I'd love to know what to modify to get my ammeter working correctly. I
annoys the bejeezus out of me that it's stuck on 0. I'm kinda anal about
things like that. If it's there, it's supposed to work. Don't ask, I'm a
nit-picky SOB. lol Thanks in advance for your help with the gauge.


Tim Neasham
Benton City, Washington
'69 F-250 Camper Special


------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 00:41:04 EDT
Subject: headers and scattershield needed

i just bought a 71 f250 2wd pulling truck, i want to find a set of good used
headers and a scattershield for a 460, if anybody knows of anything let me
know.

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 10:43:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Rear end question

There are several ratios that came stock, you can get what ever you want. If
you are asking what your ration maybe, first look for small metal tag that
spans between two bolts on the cover. It will give the ratio. My guess is
4.10 or higher numerical because of the 6 cylinder. The C-6 can easily and
reliably handle what you are talking about. Is 351 too small, depends. For
general purpose hauling, short trips,etc it is just fine, will not be as
economical as the 300. If you are going to routinely pull a large camp
trailer up steep hills at highway speeds, then you need something bigger.
Keep in mind the 300 has some advantages.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

<< Hi all. I have a few questions. Does anyone know what gear ratios came
stock
in the Dana 60 1 ton rear end? I just purchased a 68 F-350 stepside long bed
With a granny 4-speed and 300 HD. Id like to swap out the engine. Any
suggestions on powerplants? Would a 351W be too small? Would a C6 handle
that rearend plus a 2000 lb cargo? Oh well any help would be appreciated.
Andy >>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 10:46:20 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis p3.net>
Subject: Re: Pictures of A/C Setup

Don,
What do you have for me????Its sunday :)
Joe

Don Grossman wrote:

> >Anybody have any pictures of How the A/c Compressor is mounted on an FE
> >motor
> >with all the pullies and brackets...Anybody with a digital camera and a
> >A/C FE Truck????
> >Joe
>
> If you can wait until Sunday boy do I have a picture for you ;)
> --
> Don Grossman
> duckdonmac.com
>
> 43 GPW
> 63 F-100 4x4
> 77 F250
> 99 Contour
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 08:23:50 -0700
From: Don Grossman mac.com>
Subject: Re: Pictures of A/C Setup

>Don,
>What do you have for me????Its sunday :)
>Joe
>
Here you go

They are big and unedited so expect to spend some time if you have a
slow connection.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacific.net/~duckdon/pully.htm

This is with the York compressor so you will have some kind of idea.
I spent most of the time removing all the bodywork so I could get
some good shots :)

Laters
--
Don Grossman
duckdonmac.com

43 GPW
63 F-100 4x4
77 F250
99 Contour

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Ammeter
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 08:34:41 -0700


>
> Tom H:
>
> I'd love to know what to modify to get my ammeter working
> correctly. I
> annoys the bejeezus out of me that it's stuck on 0. I'm
> kinda anal about
> things like that. If it's there, it's supposed to work.
> Don't ask, I'm a
> nit-picky SOB. lol Thanks in advance for your help with the gauge.
>
>
> Tim Neasham
> Benton City, Washington
> '69 F-250 Camper Special
>


Tim,
I understand. I'm the same way. That's why I figured it out in the first
place. The problem lies in the resistance value of the shunt used to
protect the meter. The value is so low that the meter never gets current
flow through it. The shunt is located in the wiring harness that connects
three points under the hood -- the voltage regulator, the alternator and to
the starter solenoid. If you pull that harness and unwrap it there is a
large black wire. Basically all you need to do is cut that wire and splice
in about 10 more feet of the same guage wire (don't need much resistance).
Be careful how you splice in the new wire. I would recommend a solder joint
with heat shrink over it rather than a crimp joint. Do not under any
circumstance remove the shunt or leave it cut. You won't have an ammeter
after about 3 seconds of operation. You can customize the response of the
meter by varying the length of wire you splice in. For more info go to the
archives and search on ammeter. There was a discussion about 2 years ago on
this when we hashed it out.

Good luck

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 11:42:40 -0700
From: Marv & Marge Miller lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Engine Finally Done

Mark in Southwest Washington wrote:
> Oh man! I was going to paint my motor yellow because my truck is
> green and yellow and I thought it would match better than blue.

Mark,

While looking at your Sanderson page, I noticed something I take issue with:
Get rid of that orange THING, and replace it with something else, preferably
white! (Wix or the Carquest equivalent). I, too, used them for years, having
worked for AlliedSignal, but consider myself lucky to have survived all those
semi-guarded miles. Just my opinion, you understand.......... ;-)

-Marv-

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 12:00:33 -0700
From: Marv & Marge Miller lafn.org>
Subject: Driveline Vibrations

Curtis Palmer desupernet.net> Wrote, in part:

> Today, I had the drive shafts balanced and the problem is still there.
> I even tried rotating the shafts 90 degrees but that made it worse.

Curtis, see:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.classictruckshop.com/t4.htm

Good primer on driveline geometry. Thanks to Delanty for the URL.

-Marv

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 15:49:26 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: Farm and Ranch Special


Page 10 of the `69 Ford Truck Sales Brochure shows pictures of the Farm &
Ranch and Contractor Special packaged trucks. There was also a Heavy Duty
special package as well.

The Farm & Ranch came standard with: HD Battery, HD Alternator, HD Front &
Rear springs, rear Step Bumper, Bright b/s Moldings, Dual chrome Western
swing-lock Mirrors, Front & 9-inch high side Cargo boards and the F&R
special insignia on the cowl side.

The Contractor Special came with: HD Front & Rear Springs, Step Bumper,
Convenience group of choice, Dual chrome Western s/l mirrors, Contractor
tool boxes on both sides of the bed with key-lock fold-down doors and
insignia on cowl side. Was also offered with a second package which
included the Under-Hood Electric Power Pak.

All three models was offered with Standard, Custom Cab & Ranger models. My
brother used to have a 68' F&R 3/4 ton that had a "Farm & Ranch" Decal on
the back bedside where the Ranger nameplate would normally be.

Dan Herrmann



------------------------------

From: "mike schuh" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1975-1977 Box swap
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2000 16:27:56 CDT

the cab & front clip will bolt up.you might have to drill different holes
for the box. wire harness will also work from 2 wheel drive you will have to
use 4 wheel steering column and brake pedal,master cylinder,& brake booster
351m will not bolt to tranny if you have a 360,390,302 ,300 6 hope this
helps
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "T.Q. Dermako" earthlink.net>
Subject: What's it worth?
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2000 21:03:03 -0400


Hi all -

I've recently come into possession of a 67 Econoline Supervan. It was driven sparingly by the guy who owned it and then garaged for years after his death. It has 47k original miles. It has the 240 engine/3 spd. combo. Engine seized due to sitting (verified by my rebuilder, a guy I trust). This is also borne out by the condition of the bearings. Nothing is missing, interior in PERFECT shape, down to the odd optional passenger jump seat. It was a "Display Van" according to the literature (6 doors, 11 windows), so no other interior. No radio was fitted and no cutout for one. Original paint is oxidized, but a test compunding/waxing gives me hope of bringing it back. Some surface rust but only 2 small rust outs behind the rear bumper where all the road crap collects. Window/door seals are shot. Have some original service records, owners manual, etc. I'm not a collector, but would like to know the value of this before I start doing things I might regret - engine mods, interior, stereo, nice wheels, etc. Not really thinking of selling it, just curious.

TIA,

Tom


------------------------------

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