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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Sat, 08 Apr 2000 14:33:09 -0400 (EDT) Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 14:33:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #62 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Fri, 07 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 062 In This Issue: Re: Hood Fit Re: King Pins Re: Cushioned Hitch Hood lifted in rear F-150 convertible?? Elect Dist for FE Re: Elect Dist for FE Re: F-150 convertible?? Kingpins Selling '68 F-250 (Again) Looking towards Atlanta Re: Looking towards Atlanta Re: King Pins Re: Looking towards Atlanta Sanderson Headers Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Shakes violently Re: Kingpins Re: 400C Question: Was Windsor or Cleveland? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 07:57:13 -0700 From: Dennis Pearson Subject: Re: Hood Fit This is probably too obvious to be the problem, but that is the way a hood will sit when the bolts holding it to the hinges are loose or if there is some damage to the place on the hood where the hinges bolt on. These springs are pretty strong and need all the leverage the weight of the hood can provide to keep them down. Loose bolts or a damaged hood bracket will allow them to creep up... Just a thought... >>The hood on my '64 F100 does not sit correctly at the rear where it >>meets the cowl (rides way too high)... have tried adjusting the hinges >>where they attach to the cab and the hood to no avail... is this >>ill-fitting caused by "tired" springs or a combination of that and worn >>hinges... before I replace just the springs I want to know if it would >>be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood >>stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or >>lowering it.. Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA 1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C 1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed 1962 short stepside (Cadillac 500) I shortened this to only FT's http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 11:14:56 -0400 From: Steve Schaefer Subject: Re: King Pins > When removing the king pins I try to press them out. Be sure to remove the > "wedge" bolt that holds them in position first. All I got to say is I got very lucky. You guys had me scared about replacing the king pins on my "new" 76 Crew Cab. I pulled it apart, (all bolts had a light layer of anti seize on them) gave the pin a light push, and i came right out. I just regreased and reinstalled them. I hope that I can catch them in time if they ever do go bad. Steve S. 77 F-250 Supercab 76 F-350 Crew cab http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 11:17:38 -0400 From: Steve Schaefer Subject: Re: Cushioned Hitch > > Subject: cushioned hitch > > Anyone ever use one of these? > > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.schuckhitches.com/index.html > > OX I personally have not used one, but my aunt and uncle had one on there S#$%rban that they used to tow a 23' camper with. Made hook up very easy for them (both in there late 60's). Looked like a nice unit. Never had a problem with it. Steve S. 77 F-250 Supercab 76 F-350 Crew cab http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663 ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Hood lifted in rear Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 11:21:34 -0400 Bill in Mobile writes: >>The hood on my '64 F100 does not sit correctly at the rear where it meets the cowl (rides way too high)... have tried adjusting the hinges where they attach to the cab and the hood to no avail... is this ill-fitting caused by "tired" springs or a combination of that and worn hinges... before I replace just the springs I want to know if it would be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or lowering it..<< Try oiling those hinges in every place there is movement(and thats a bunch of places).. Raise and lower the hood several times and repeat as necessary.. Most of the time that works, but the springs do also get "tired" after many years, so may not be a "complete cure". Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: Jeremy Albers Subject: F-150 convertible?? Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 10:03:05 -0600 Hi everyone - "long time lurker, first time writer"...I've really enjoyed all the posts and dialogue on the list. Haven't seen any threads about this yet (probably for a very good reason!) but what I'd like to do over the next year or two is cut the top off of an F-150 or a Ranger and build a bikini top for it. I know someone used to make an aftermarket ragtop kit for the D*dge Dakota about ten years ago, but I've never seen anything for Ford. As I have no guesses about structural integrity in such a situation, I'd love to hear any & all opinions about how well the frame (and windshield) might deal with not having the roof or pillars attached. What kinds of things would I need to be concerned with? ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Elect Dist for FE Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 11:52:03 -0400 Joe DeL. writes: >>can I take a standard points distributor and gut it and add the parts from a duraspark distributor????Especially the FE dist. Can i take say a 302 duraspark(most common) in my truck yards and use the insides for a FE dist?????<< I would think so, but have not tried it. My '76's has the FE and has electronics. Looks just like the earlier version points type outside, so I think it can be done. Best bet would be to find a '76 with FE in the salvage yard and buy the dist. and maybe any wiring harness pigtails you might can use..The '75 might also have the Electronic dist. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 12:19:05 -0400 From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis Subject: Re: Elect Dist for FE Azie, thats what i just did found a 75 FE with the elec. dist for a whopping $5.00 it was mine with the wiring...So i'm in business Joe am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote: > Joe DeL. writes: >>can I take a standard points distributor and gut it and > add the parts > from a duraspark > distributor????Especially the FE dist. Can i take say a 302 > duraspark(most common) in my truck yards and use the insides for a FE > dist?????<< > > I would think so, but have not tried it. My '76's has the FE and has > electronics. Looks just like the earlier version points type outside, so I > think it can be done. Best bet would be to find a '76 with FE in the > salvage yard and buy the dist. and maybe any wiring harness pigtails you > might can use..The '75 might also have the Electronic dist. > > Azie Magnusson > Ardmore, Al > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" Subject: Re: F-150 convertible?? Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 12:37:31 -0400 For the Ranger--you might find a kit for it in Mini-truck Magazine.For the F-150--There used to be a company that made a Dark Smoked Plexiglass roof insert called a "Super Dome". You would cut the center section of the roof out(according to the measurements in the kit) & also remove the rear window.It had cam locks that held it in place against a rubber seal.They are neat ,but I have only seen one & that has been about 12 yrs. ago. I don't know if the company even still exsists. -----Original Message----- From: Jeremy Albers To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> Date: Friday, April 07, 2000 12:03 PM Subject: [61-79-list] F-150 convertible?? > >Hi everyone - "long time lurker, first time writer"...I've really >enjoyed all the posts and dialogue on the list. Haven't seen any >threads about this yet (probably for a very good reason!) but what I'd >like to do over the next year or two is cut the top off of an F-150 or >a Ranger and build a bikini top for it. I know someone used to make an >aftermarket ragtop kit for the D*dge Dakota about ten years ago, but >I've never seen anything for Ford. As I have no guesses about >structural integrity in such a situation, I'd love to hear any & all >opinions about how well the frame (and windshield) might deal with not >having the roof or pillars attached. What kinds of things would I need >to be concerned with? > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ From: "Gary L. Perry" Subject: Kingpins Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 12:37:46 -0500 Any pins I have done in past I always removed whole axles and took to a auto shop or truck suspension shop (usually for Big trucks). That way you can use vises on bench and need a press for pins and bushings with right size "blocks" to push them out. Haven't ever had to heat them in shop, but made press "shudder" with tight ones. You can have guy press in new bush easily and ream to fit new pins. Buy the Pin kit and take with you. Wasn't that expensive and didn't take long. Some new kits have the D#%^ plastic bushings, which I've wrecked putting in. Whole must be absolutely clean and straight or damage will occur. Don't know why they would have plastic in such a High Load area! Doesn't seem like they would last long. Another problem depending on age of truck is the screw in caps have fine threads and easy to damage. Be careful! When whole axle is out is good time to get the radius arm cushions and washers replaced (probably shot anyway). I usually torch the spring bolt, drive out and replace, sometimes very rusty and hard to remove. Axle can be dropped out from truck with radius arm and spring all attached yet, just harder to handle to work on. "G" ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 17:22:27 -0400 From: j arnold Subject: Selling '68 F-250 (Again) I posted this a couple of months ago, had it sold, then couldn't find title, Oh well. Got the title now so we'll try it again. Also have some pictures, so, if you're interested I can send them. Thanks. stoney I've finally decided to let go of one. I never trade trucks in on new ones > because I get mad at what dealers offer, so, I've got a 57 (needs frame up > resto), a 68, 76, 79, and 83. Not counting SWMBO's car and a 73 mustang. > ALL need work, not enough time, space, or money, so one's got to go. > I hate the idea of parting out and junking an old truck and this has been > a good one, but just needs too much for me to mess with. I'm offering it to > the list first, then will post it on the FTE website, if anyone is > interested, I'd let it go dirt cheap, just to see it get some attention and > put back on the road. This truck might make a great first vehicle for a > young person who wants to get mobile, like I said , CHEAP, and could be > made road SAFE and drivable for $500 or quite a bit less if they had the > help of someone who knows how to work on them. This has been my farm truck > for the past few years and was running until about 4 months ago. > A 1968 heavy-duty F250, 360 cid, C-4 (C-6?) auto trans, Dana 60 rears with 3.73. > Standard cab, regular styleside bed. No power steering or brakes. Has > underdash A/C unit, fan works, but compressor quit long ago. > Needs a 2v carb, this one gushes gas all over manifold (reason it got > parked 4 months ago), brake fluid leak in right rear (why it got sent to > farm). Other than these things, it was running strong. Body needs TLC, > minor rust all over, but no rust through except on tailgate. Passenger side > was bashed years ago, bed side needs fixing, rear corner of cab is worst > spot since rust has set in there. Heavy step bumpers front and rear. > If anybody is really interested, I can take some pictures. > Trucks in Kentucky, just south of Louisville. If someone wants to fix it, > I'd consider delivering it free quite a ways. If some young person wants to > start a project, I'm sure I can make this something you can afford. > Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 17:22:37 -0400 From: j arnold Subject: Looking towards Atlanta Here in northern Kentucky, the forecast is possible snow flurries tomorrow, the middle of April?!?! Too much for this South Texas boy, gonna move down around Atlanta. Would really appreciate hearing from anyone from there who can give me some info (Off list). Thanks a lot. Stoney ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 14:43:14 -0700 From: "Kiernan, Denny" Subject: Re: Looking towards Atlanta j arnold wrote: > > Here in northern Kentucky, the forecast is possible snow flurries tomorrow, > the middle of April?!?! Too much for this South Texas boy, gonna move down > around Atlanta. Would really appreciate hearing from anyone from there who > can give me some info (Off list). Thanks a lot. I hear that the traffic jams down there are the worst in the country. ------------------------------ From: "Jerry Splawn" Subject: Re: King Pins Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 10:05:35 -0500 I think thats the way they're supposed to come out. I shoulda been so lucky. Actually, I believe a previous owner drove the truck with the pins in poor condition for so long that they rusted and were siezed. -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Steve Schaefer Sent: Friday, April 07, 2000 10:15 AM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Subject: [61-79-list] Re: King Pins > When removing the king pins I try to press them out. Be sure to remove the > "wedge" bolt that holds them in position first. All I got to say is I got very lucky. You guys had me scared about replacing the king pins on my "new" 76 Crew Cab. I pulled it apart, (all bolts had a light layer of anti seize on them) gave the pin a light push, and i came right out. I just regreased and reinstalled them. I hope that I can catch them in time if they ever do go bad. Steve S. 77 F-250 Supercab 76 F-350 Crew cab http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663 ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 00:34:01 EDT Subject: Re: Looking towards Atlanta i believe this to be true, best to avoid atlanta from 6 am to 10 am and from 2:30pm to 7PM. JEFF GRANT ------------------------------ From: "Luke Phillips" Subject: Sanderson Headers Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 00:26:19 CDT Well, as many of you might know I am building a 460 for my 67 F100. I have purchased a set of sanderson headers. My concern is the right side header comes straight back. Will I have to purchase a turn down for this? Will I have enough clearance to get by the firewall? If anyone has ever tried this please let me know. I will buy different headers if I have to. I know that L&L products makes a header kit for a 72 F100. But they are nickel plated and $425.00. The L&L catalog says that the headers are chassis exit. What does that mean? Please let me know. I'm putting the pistons in tomorrow (very excited!). Thanks in advance..... Luke Phillips 67 F100 short bed (460 in the works!) 2001 Super Nats Bound! ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Luke Phillips" Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 00:29:55 CDT Mallory also makes one. Its $98.00 Takes 30 min. to install! >From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" >Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com >To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> >Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? >Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 00:06:55 -0400 > >Maybe you should check out the Petronix Ignitor Kit. It's a device that >fits in your distributor in place of the points that will change you over >to >electronic ignition & you will be able to keep the original look on the >outside of the distributor. No one will know but you,unless they take the >cap off. >-----Original Message----- >From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis >To: ford trucklist61-79 <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> >Date: Thursday, April 06, 2000 3:40 PM >Subject: [61-79-list] Can i points dist. be converted?? > > > >Group > >can I take a standard points distributor and gut it and add the parts > >from a duraspark > >distributor????Especially the FE dist. Can i take say a 302 > >duraspark(most common) in my truck yards and use the insides for a FE > >dist????? > >Is there a how to anywhere????? > >Joe > > > >========================================================== > >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > >message. > > > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: ballingr bootheel.net Subject: Shakes violently Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 04:30:55 -0500 Don I've had this problem on Ford trucks ever since Noah was a Babe. Only after getting on this list and reading someones suggestion did I realize what the problem was and I tried it and found out that it really was the problem. All the linkage was worn and the motor mounts and transmission mounts had become really ineffective(soft and very flexible). I first removed all the linkage and tightened up all the slop. (drilled and bushed some holes, welded up some rods on the worn side and re-ground them down to the correct size, and replaced all the Nylon bushings and such). This vastly improved the shake, but I still had some. I then removed and replaced the motor mounts. More improvement but still had just a bit. I then replaced the tranny mount. Now I get just a slight jerk every now and then, but never do I get the violent shake that I used to get. I had always put the blame on Fords Pressure plate, I still think that Centerforce is a better disign, but the Ford Pressure plate works OK IF all the other things are "within spec" .. Try your linkage and motor/tranny mounts...I think you'll help the situation if not resolve it. >>>>>>> Don, this is on the '63 right? Do you have the front mount and bell housing mounts? If so, and you have transplanted an FE with the aluminum front cover, a set of tubing spacers were needed for three of the front cover to mount bracket bolts. These flex terribly. The solution is a cast iron front cover, the bolt bosses are the right depth and no spacers are needed. It really tightens things up. That front mount gets a lot of oil on it, I just replaced mine a year ago and the intake seals have dripped enough oil to get down there all ready. I'll be doing that again in a couple of years. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 08:54:44 -0400 From: David Wadson Subject: Re: Kingpins The first time I had to do my kingpins, I ended up with a truck that was imobile for months because the front end was totally disassembled and miles from a machine shop. It ended up being "easier" to go to the scrap yard, cut the front axles, complete with steering linkage, radius arms and springs still attached, from another truck and replace the whole front end of my truck. Even had I gotten an acetylene torch and a press of some sort, it was probably still easier to swap the whole front end. Kicker was, that beautiful smooth and free front end seized up on me about a year and a half later. I hemmed and hawed for a while about constructing the press contraption to try and pop them out but decided against it. I had picked up the new kingpins and was admired all the shiny parts - the pins (nice weight and shape to them), the locking pins, grease seals, washers...and the bushings. The more I thought about what was involved, or rather what I didn't know was involved as there were no instructions either in the box or in any of the shop manuals, as to how to fit the bushings and kingpins properly, the more I realized the shop was the right way to go. After all the grief they would be to get out, I didn't want to have to do it again because I screwed up the installation! Especially considering the truck was now my daily driver. I just paid the shop to replace the kingpins, my steering linkage (it was shot) and align the whole thing. I got that truck back and nearly racked it up right after I pulled out of the parking lot. I didn't realize just how much I had to oversteer when my linkages were worn and kingpins seized! The truck has never felt as responsive in the steering as it did that afternoon - the slightest turn on the wheel and the truck followed! Anyways, take a good look at how much your time is worth to you. While you can change the kingpins yourself no matter what technique you use it's going to take a whole lot of time (as usual, more than you think!) and a whole lot of sweat. Heck, the garage quoted me at an 1-1/2 to 2 hours per side! There's a reason for that... David Wadson (wadsond air.on.ca) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 14:33:23 -0400 From: bill poudrier Subject: Re: 400C Question: Was Windsor or Cleveland? Actually the article was in the september issue but thats a very small point. Thank you for getting me close. I went to http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotrodarchives.com/ and was able to download a .pdf from them for $1.99 showing the article that you talked about. Thanks again for the pointer. This is a nice web sight and it saves a weekend in the library. At 09:31 AM 4/1/00 -0800, you wrote: >equipment. If you are interested in doing somethig >like that check out Hot Rod Magazine, I think it was >July or Aug '98. There was an article on a 400 buildup >using 2V heads. > >Dan Lee >'53 F100 >400C-4V > >>From: SevnD2 ....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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