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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Fri, 07 Apr 2000 10:39:44 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 10:39:44 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #61
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61-79-list Digest Thu, 06 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 061

In This Issue:
Re: Very Nice NOS Parts
Shakes violently
King pins
Jerry's kingpins
Re: Very Nice NOS Parts
Hood Fit
Re: Hood Fit
WTB '70 - '75 F100 SB
Can i points dist. be converted??
Re: kingpin
cushioned hitch
Re: Can i points dist. be converted??
Re: Can i points dist. be converted??
Re: Can i points dist. be converted??
Re: Kingpins
78 vs 79 brake pedal/booster setup
Re: kingpin
Re: Hood Fit
Re: Hood Fit
Re: Can i points dist. be converted??
Re: cushioned hitch
Re: Can i points dist. be converted??
Re: Power steering pump pulley

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 09:59:10 -0400
From: Steve Schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: Very Nice NOS Parts

> Another
> gentleman had some Very Nice NOS 73/79 Bedsides. He had a pair of Shortbed
> sides and a pair of Longbed. But he was very proud of them! He wanted $750
> EACH for the Shortbed skins and $650 EACH for the longbed!!!!

I saw the bed sides, I was nice enough to wipe the drool off the sides when I was done.
Price was a little to high. I found a few nice items for the race cars. I didn't need
much for the trucks. Carlisle All Ford Show and Swap Meet is the first weekend in June.

Steve S.
77 F-250 Supercab
76 F-350 Crew Cab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663


------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Shakes violently
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 10:06:13 -0400

Don G. writes: >>next on my list is the clutch. It doesn't chatter, it
SHAKES
VIOLENTLY! when being engaged. Once engaged all is find and dandy.
Doesn't slip at all.<<

Don I've had this problem on Ford trucks ever since Noah was a Babe. Only
after getting on this list and reading someones suggestion did I realize
what the problem was and I tried it and found out that it really was the
problem. All the linkage was worn and the motor mounts and transmission
mounts had become really ineffective(soft and very flexible). I first
removed all the linkage and tightened up all the slop. (drilled and bushed
some holes, welded up some rods on the worn side and re-ground them down to
the correct size, and replaced all the Nylon bushings and such). This
vastly improved the shake, but I still had some. I then removed and
replaced the motor mounts. More improvement but still had just a bit. I
then replaced the tranny mount. Now I get just a slight jerk every now and
then, but never do I get the violent shake that I used to get. I had
always put the blame on Fords Pressure plate, I still think that
Centerforce is a better disign, but the Ford Pressure plate works OK IF all
the other things are "within spec" ..

Try your linkage and motor/tranny mounts...I think you'll help the
situation if not resolve it.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: King pins
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 10:24:08 -0400

When removing the king pins I try to press them out. Be sure to remove the
"wedge" bolt that holds them in position first.
Most of the time when you are beating them out with a hammer, and they
don't come out right away, the end you are hammering on swells somewhat and
that only makes it more difficult to get them out. There are a # of ways
to "press" them out, but if you have a floor jack, you can tie a chain
under the floor jack & up over the axle and use some sort of pin on the
jack and under the king pin and being very careful to keep the jack
directly under the king pin and the push pin in alignment you can sometimes
press them out this way. The bottlejack with the device recommended on
this list some time back seems to be a better method, but when in a bind
anything might be worth a try... If all else fails, drive the pin back
down, put it all back together and take it to a garage, but if you can
remove the I beams(axle) and take to an automotive machine shop you will
save several $'s. You really should replace the bushings in the axle
anyway, and they usually have to be machined to fit, so a machine shop
should be on your list anyway.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al



------------------------------

From: "Mike" connect.ab.ca>
Subject: Jerry's kingpins
Date: (No, or invalid, date.)

Jerry, you might have more luck using acetylene to heat up that sucker. By the time you heat it up with the
propane, it's heated all the way through, including the pin. With the proper torch, you can heat the axle quicker
and start pounding before the pin expands too. Good luck.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 13:47:13 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: Very Nice NOS Parts


>I saw the bed sides, I was nice enough to wipe the drool off the sides
when I was done.
>Price was a little to high. Carlisle All Ford Show and Swap Meet is the
first weekend in June.
>

=====================================================


I hope you wiped off the drool I left behind as well. He was way out in
left field on them bedsides. Prices like that is why people keep going to
the el'cheap-o aftermarket sheet metal. Most truck restorer's already
thought that Ford was way too high on their bedsides, so they kept buying
the aftermarket even though they could still buy the original stuff. So
with low sales continuing, Ford finally dropped the last of the bedskins
early in 99'. Until then, you were able to still buy the 6.5' & 8' Right
sides. Left sides were dropped a few years earlier.

The Carlisle All-Ford Nationals is slated for June 2-4. Plan to spend the
night. This is one Huge show!! Hope I can make it this year.

Take Care!

Dan Herrmann




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 11:46:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill yahoo.com>
Subject: Hood Fit

The hood on my '64 F100 does not sit correctly at the rear where it
meets the cowl (rides way too high)... have tried adjusting the hinges
where they attach to the cab and the hood to no avail... is this
ill-fitting caused by "tired" springs or a combination of that and worn
hinges... before I replace just the springs I want to know if it would
be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood
stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or
lowering it..

Thanks,

Bill in Mobile
'64 F100 Shortbox ('70 351W/'76 C4)

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 14:19:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Hood Fit
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> I want to know if it would
> be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood
> stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or
> lowering it..

Bill,

If it was me, I would replace the whole assembly. Probably what happened is
that the hinges were not kept lubricated, became resistant, somebody forced
the hood open or closed anyway, and you got your basic sprung hinge. This is
a guess, so take it for what you will.....

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "Howard, Randolph E" PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: WTB '70 - '75 F100 SB
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 12:34:19 -0700

Howdy,
Well, I thought had a '75 F100 SB all lined up to buy as a project truck but then the s.o.b. sold it out from under me. Live and learn I guess, but I really thought I was old enough to smell a bad deal. Anyway, I am back to shopping. Just on the off-chance that someone in the Seattle area has a similar truck for sale, please contact me off the list. Thanks.

Randy Howard
randolph.e.howard boeing.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 15:38:24 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis p3.net>
Subject: Can i points dist. be converted??

Group
can I take a standard points distributor and gut it and add the parts
from a duraspark
distributor????Especially the FE dist. Can i take say a 302
duraspark(most common) in my truck yards and use the insides for a FE
dist?????
Is there a how to anywhere?????
Joe


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 15:13:35 -0500
From: "Kelley McDaniel" mercuryems.com>
Subject: Re: kingpin

Here's what I would try if I had it already apart:

First, buy, beg, borrow, rent, or steal . . . no, don't steal . . . an acetylene torch. The axle has to be hotter than the
bushing. The only way to do that, as massive as it is, is to heat it *fast*. Propane won't. Map gas, maybe, though I doubt it.

Find a long *tough* bolt that will thread through the bushing and a large deep socket or length of pipe that is big around enough to
straddle the bush. The head of the bolt (or washer) would have to be small enough to pull through the axle. Pass the bolt through
the bushing and the pipe, put a washer and nut on it, heat the axle with a hot flame and draw the bushing into the pipe with a
socket wrench. I've not tried this, but I'll bet it will work if you can get it hot enough fast enough and if the bolt is strong
enough.

BTW, I had a shop do the kingpins on an early '60's econoline I had and he had to ream them once they were installed. Who among us
carries a set of reamers?

Kelley in Kansas


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 16:34:19 -0400
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: cushioned hitch

Anyone ever use one of these?

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.schuckhitches.com/index.html

OX

------------------------------

From: Matt Senn avistacom.net>
Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted??
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 13:49:42 -0700

i converted my 390 to a duraspark ignition system from points style . . . i
simply bought a brand new (rebuilt, a-1 cardone) distributor for a 76 pickup
from checker for $49 and got a duraspark ii and coil off my dads 79 fairmont
wagon, wired it up and everything works fine!! i'll see if i can find an
article i had about wiring it up, it may have even come from the
ford-trucks.com website . . .





------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted??
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 14:00:25 -0700

Check out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pertronix.com

They sell a conversion kit (someone from the list turned me on to) that fits
in the stock dist and uses stock cap&rotor. I installed the kit in dad's
'67 F100 and couldn't be happier with the results. The only difference is
there are 2 wires going to the dist. instead of one. Much cleaner looking
and simpler than the Duraspark conversion. 3yr. warranty. The points can
even be kept in the glovebox as a backup! I paid $62.95 for the kit
including shipping from RetroRockets http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.retrorockets.com
There was a distributor in my town, but he wanted $90+tax...

Rich

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted??
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 14:06:49 -0700

Corrected link for RetroRockets:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/index.html


------------------------------

From: "Horl Choo" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kingpins
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 15:12:08 PDT



A few years ago I helped my dad replace the kingpins and
spindle arm bearings on his 69' f-250 camper special.
After realizing that his blow torch wasn't going to let us
get those pins out, we used this job as an excuse to buy
a $400 acetylene welding outfit...I heated one side (the spindle
arm) to a bright cherry red..let it cool some and the kingpin came
out with some beating...the other side i heated and let the spindle
cool two times...and after a LIGHT tap on the kingpin
it fell out.
I figure the welding outfit has paid for itself during the last 3 years!

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 18:43:59 -0400
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: 78 vs 79 brake pedal/booster setup

OK

I think I remember this being touched on briefly once before, but why
the heck did ford totaly change the brake pedal, steer col bracket,
linkage and booster from 78 to 79 (OK, I know the answer, but man what a
hassle!!!). I needed a booster for my 79 Bronco and tried to get it off
my 78
Bronco parts truck. No go. I figured, OK the booster I had on the 79
came from a 79 pickup I had, so I figured maybe I changed the firewall
mount brackets. After I tried swapping them over to 78 brackets, the 78
booster/brackets still did not put me anywhere near the hole for the
pedal.

For anyone who cares, the 78 has less travel with a fulcrum in the
linkage where the 79 has more travel and no flucrum. I imagine the 79
setup produces more force per pedal pressure, but requires greater
travel to actuate.

OX

------------------------------

From: "Jerry Splawn" tcac.net>
Subject: Re: kingpin
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 06:31:18 -0500

Yes, I did remove that, although the threads were stripped and the bolt
rounded off!!!
That almost presented another problem

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Hogan, Tom
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 8:22 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: kingpin



>
> I suppose one alternative would be to take the whole I-beam
> off and take it
> to a machine shop to have it pressed out

Go ahead. That's what the shop I took mine to did. One thing, I haven't
seen mention of this in any of the threads. Have you removed the retaining
bolt that's in the middle of the kingpin? Goes in the notch you can see in
the new ones you bought. I know I might be stating the obvious.

Tom H
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.


------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 22:28:56 EDT
Subject: Re: Hood Fit

In a message dated 4/6/2000 1:47:16 PM EST, gypsybilll yahoo.com writes:

<< The hood on my '64 F100 does not sit correctly at the rear where it
meets the cowl (rides way too high)... have tried adjusting the hinges
where they attach to the cab and the hood to no avail... is this
ill-fitting caused by "tired" springs or a combination of that and worn
hinges... before I replace just the springs I want to know if it would
be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood
stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or
lowering it..
>>


My 64 does the exactly the same thing only its only about 1/2 inch high
at this time . I sure hope it doesn't get any worse ..



Steve 64 F100 swb

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Fit
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 23:46:27 -0400

Does it have the original hinges or has someone replaced them with the wrong
ones sometime in the past?
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill yahoo.com>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, April 06, 2000 2:46 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Hood Fit


>The hood on my '64 F100 does not sit correctly at the rear where it
>meets the cowl (rides way too high)... have tried adjusting the hinges
>where they attach to the cab and the hood to no avail... is this
>ill-fitting caused by "tired" springs or a combination of that and worn
>hinges... before I replace just the springs I want to know if it would
>be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood
>stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or
>lowering it..
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill in Mobile
>'64 F100 Shortbox ('70 351W/'76 C4)
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted??
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 00:06:55 -0400

Maybe you should check out the Petronix Ignitor Kit. It's a device that
fits in your distributor in place of the points that will change you over to
electronic ignition & you will be able to keep the original look on the
outside of the distributor. No one will know but you,unless they take the
cap off.
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis p3.net>
To: ford trucklist61-79 <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, April 06, 2000 3:40 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Can i points dist. be converted??


>Group
>can I take a standard points distributor and gut it and add the parts
>from a duraspark
>distributor????Especially the FE dist. Can i take say a 302
>duraspark(most common) in my truck yards and use the insides for a FE
>dist?????
>Is there a how to anywhere?????
>Joe
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 00:03:09 EDT
Subject: Re: cushioned hitch

i used to have a dmi quick cushinion on my truck, it was nice, the receicer
tube pulled out 11" and pivoted from side to side, very easy hook up for one
person,
plus the cushion really helped when pulling equipment.

------------------------------

From: "Josh Assing" jassing.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 21:10:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted??

> Maybe you should check out the Petronix Ignitor Kit. It's a device that
I (second/third) this.. I have one on my 72F100 and have had one
on 6 other various cars. I think this is one of the best investments
you can make for your older car.




------------------------------

From: "Scott Jensen" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Power steering pump pulley
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 07:43:11 -0700

The special tool for installing the pulley is a bolt with a nut threaded
on, then the thickest fender washer you have laying around the garage slid
between the nut and the pulley. I usually lock the end of the bolt in the
vise, hold the pump and turn the nut.

I tried the dumb way of removing the pulley once. Heated it up and used a
three prong puller over the outside. I pulled it 3/4" out. Belts wouldn't
line up, was a real mess. The shop that did pull it off didn't believe that
I'd bent it. It wasn't warped, just out too far. New pulley cost more than
the power steering unit. I went to the wreaking yard and measured the
proper distance. Went back to the shop so they could tell me the shop press
won't straighten a pulley. I was real careful lining everything up, but it
didn't bend it back straight. The shop didn't charge me. Went back home and
a few blows with the BFH and a socket did the trick. The pulley probably
isn't as strong as it once was, but it's lasted many miles. Now I'll just
go back to that shop when I need pulley work.


------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #61
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