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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Fri, 07 Apr 2000 10:39:44 -0400 (EDT) Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 10:39:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #61 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Thu, 06 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 061 In This Issue: Re: Very Nice NOS Parts Shakes violently King pins Jerry's kingpins Re: Very Nice NOS Parts Hood Fit Re: Hood Fit WTB '70 - '75 F100 SB Can i points dist. be converted?? Re: kingpin cushioned hitch Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Re: Kingpins 78 vs 79 brake pedal/booster setup Re: kingpin Re: Hood Fit Re: Hood Fit Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Re: cushioned hitch Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Re: Power steering pump pulley ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 09:59:10 -0400 From: Steve Schaefer Subject: Re: Very Nice NOS Parts > Another > gentleman had some Very Nice NOS 73/79 Bedsides. He had a pair of Shortbed > sides and a pair of Longbed. But he was very proud of them! He wanted $750 > EACH for the Shortbed skins and $650 EACH for the longbed!!!! I saw the bed sides, I was nice enough to wipe the drool off the sides when I was done. Price was a little to high. I found a few nice items for the race cars. I didn't need much for the trucks. Carlisle All Ford Show and Swap Meet is the first weekend in June. Steve S. 77 F-250 Supercab 76 F-350 Crew Cab http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663 ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Shakes violently Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 10:06:13 -0400 Don G. writes: >>next on my list is the clutch. It doesn't chatter, it SHAKES VIOLENTLY! when being engaged. Once engaged all is find and dandy. Doesn't slip at all.<< Don I've had this problem on Ford trucks ever since Noah was a Babe. Only after getting on this list and reading someones suggestion did I realize what the problem was and I tried it and found out that it really was the problem. All the linkage was worn and the motor mounts and transmission mounts had become really ineffective(soft and very flexible). I first removed all the linkage and tightened up all the slop. (drilled and bushed some holes, welded up some rods on the worn side and re-ground them down to the correct size, and replaced all the Nylon bushings and such). This vastly improved the shake, but I still had some. I then removed and replaced the motor mounts. More improvement but still had just a bit. I then replaced the tranny mount. Now I get just a slight jerk every now and then, but never do I get the violent shake that I used to get. I had always put the blame on Fords Pressure plate, I still think that Centerforce is a better disign, but the Ford Pressure plate works OK IF all the other things are "within spec" .. Try your linkage and motor/tranny mounts...I think you'll help the situation if not resolve it. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: King pins Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 10:24:08 -0400 When removing the king pins I try to press them out. Be sure to remove the "wedge" bolt that holds them in position first. Most of the time when you are beating them out with a hammer, and they don't come out right away, the end you are hammering on swells somewhat and that only makes it more difficult to get them out. There are a # of ways to "press" them out, but if you have a floor jack, you can tie a chain under the floor jack & up over the axle and use some sort of pin on the jack and under the king pin and being very careful to keep the jack directly under the king pin and the push pin in alignment you can sometimes press them out this way. The bottlejack with the device recommended on this list some time back seems to be a better method, but when in a bind anything might be worth a try... If all else fails, drive the pin back down, put it all back together and take it to a garage, but if you can remove the I beams(axle) and take to an automotive machine shop you will save several $'s. You really should replace the bushings in the axle anyway, and they usually have to be machined to fit, so a machine shop should be on your list anyway. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: "Mike" Subject: Jerry's kingpins Date: (No, or invalid, date.) Jerry, you might have more luck using acetylene to heat up that sucker. By the time you heat it up with the propane, it's heated all the way through, including the pin. With the proper torch, you can heat the axle quicker and start pounding before the pin expands too. Good luck. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 13:47:13 -0500 From: Dan Herrmann Subject: Re: Very Nice NOS Parts >I saw the bed sides, I was nice enough to wipe the drool off the sides when I was done. >Price was a little to high. Carlisle All Ford Show and Swap Meet is the first weekend in June. > ===================================================== I hope you wiped off the drool I left behind as well. He was way out in left field on them bedsides. Prices like that is why people keep going to the el'cheap-o aftermarket sheet metal. Most truck restorer's already thought that Ford was way too high on their bedsides, so they kept buying the aftermarket even though they could still buy the original stuff. So with low sales continuing, Ford finally dropped the last of the bedskins early in 99'. Until then, you were able to still buy the 6.5' & 8' Right sides. Left sides were dropped a few years earlier. The Carlisle All-Ford Nationals is slated for June 2-4. Plan to spend the night. This is one Huge show!! Hope I can make it this year. Take Care! Dan Herrmann ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 11:46:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Bill Subject: Hood Fit The hood on my '64 F100 does not sit correctly at the rear where it meets the cowl (rides way too high)... have tried adjusting the hinges where they attach to the cab and the hood to no avail... is this ill-fitting caused by "tired" springs or a combination of that and worn hinges... before I replace just the springs I want to know if it would be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or lowering it.. Thanks, Bill in Mobile '64 F100 Shortbox ('70 351W/'76 C4) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 14:19:12 -0500 Subject: Re: Hood Fit From: "John LaGrone" > I want to know if it would > be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood > stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or > lowering it.. Bill, If it was me, I would replace the whole assembly. Probably what happened is that the hinges were not kept lubricated, became resistant, somebody forced the hood open or closed anyway, and you got your basic sprung hinge. This is a guess, so take it for what you will..... -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "Howard, Randolph E" Subject: WTB '70 - '75 F100 SB Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 12:34:19 -0700 Howdy, Well, I thought had a '75 F100 SB all lined up to buy as a project truck but then the s.o.b. sold it out from under me. Live and learn I guess, but I really thought I was old enough to smell a bad deal. Anyway, I am back to shopping. Just on the off-chance that someone in the Seattle area has a similar truck for sale, please contact me off the list. Thanks. Randy Howard randolph.e.howard boeing.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 15:38:24 -0400 From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis Subject: Can i points dist. be converted?? Group can I take a standard points distributor and gut it and add the parts from a duraspark distributor????Especially the FE dist. Can i take say a 302 duraspark(most common) in my truck yards and use the insides for a FE dist????? Is there a how to anywhere????? Joe ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 15:13:35 -0500 From: "Kelley McDaniel" Subject: Re: kingpin Here's what I would try if I had it already apart: First, buy, beg, borrow, rent, or steal . . . no, don't steal . . . an acetylene torch. The axle has to be hotter than the bushing. The only way to do that, as massive as it is, is to heat it *fast*. Propane won't. Map gas, maybe, though I doubt it. Find a long *tough* bolt that will thread through the bushing and a large deep socket or length of pipe that is big around enough to straddle the bush. The head of the bolt (or washer) would have to be small enough to pull through the axle. Pass the bolt through the bushing and the pipe, put a washer and nut on it, heat the axle with a hot flame and draw the bushing into the pipe with a socket wrench. I've not tried this, but I'll bet it will work if you can get it hot enough fast enough and if the bolt is strong enough. BTW, I had a shop do the kingpins on an early '60's econoline I had and he had to ream them once they were installed. Who among us carries a set of reamers? Kelley in Kansas ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 16:34:19 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: cushioned hitch Anyone ever use one of these? http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.schuckhitches.com/index.html OX ------------------------------ From: Matt Senn Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 13:49:42 -0700 i converted my 390 to a duraspark ignition system from points style . . . i simply bought a brand new (rebuilt, a-1 cardone) distributor for a 76 pickup from checker for $49 and got a duraspark ii and coil off my dads 79 fairmont wagon, wired it up and everything works fine!! i'll see if i can find an article i had about wiring it up, it may have even come from the ford-trucks.com website . . . ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 14:00:25 -0700 Check out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pertronix.com They sell a conversion kit (someone from the list turned me on to) that fits in the stock dist and uses stock cap&rotor. I installed the kit in dad's '67 F100 and couldn't be happier with the results. The only difference is there are 2 wires going to the dist. instead of one. Much cleaner looking and simpler than the Duraspark conversion. 3yr. warranty. The points can even be kept in the glovebox as a backup! I paid $62.95 for the kit including shipping from RetroRockets http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.retrorockets.com There was a distributor in my town, but he wanted $90+tax... Rich ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 14:06:49 -0700 Corrected link for RetroRockets: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/index.html ------------------------------ From: "Horl Choo" Subject: Re: Kingpins Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 15:12:08 PDT A few years ago I helped my dad replace the kingpins and spindle arm bearings on his 69' f-250 camper special. After realizing that his blow torch wasn't going to let us get those pins out, we used this job as an excuse to buy a $400 acetylene welding outfit...I heated one side (the spindle arm) to a bright cherry red..let it cool some and the kingpin came out with some beating...the other side i heated and let the spindle cool two times...and after a LIGHT tap on the kingpin it fell out. I figure the welding outfit has paid for itself during the last 3 years! ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 18:43:59 -0400 From: James Oxley Subject: 78 vs 79 brake pedal/booster setup OK I think I remember this being touched on briefly once before, but why the heck did ford totaly change the brake pedal, steer col bracket, linkage and booster from 78 to 79 (OK, I know the answer, but man what a hassle!!!). I needed a booster for my 79 Bronco and tried to get it off my 78 Bronco parts truck. No go. I figured, OK the booster I had on the 79 came from a 79 pickup I had, so I figured maybe I changed the firewall mount brackets. After I tried swapping them over to 78 brackets, the 78 booster/brackets still did not put me anywhere near the hole for the pedal. For anyone who cares, the 78 has less travel with a fulcrum in the linkage where the 79 has more travel and no flucrum. I imagine the 79 setup produces more force per pedal pressure, but requires greater travel to actuate. OX ------------------------------ From: "Jerry Splawn" Subject: Re: kingpin Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 06:31:18 -0500 Yes, I did remove that, although the threads were stripped and the bolt rounded off!!! That almost presented another problem -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Hogan, Tom Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2000 8:22 AM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Subject: [61-79-list] Re: kingpin > > I suppose one alternative would be to take the whole I-beam > off and take it > to a machine shop to have it pressed out Go ahead. That's what the shop I took mine to did. One thing, I haven't seen mention of this in any of the threads. Have you removed the retaining bolt that's in the middle of the kingpin? Goes in the notch you can see in the new ones you bought. I know I might be stating the obvious. Tom H ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ From: WEDIVE247 aol.com Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 22:28:56 EDT Subject: Re: Hood Fit In a message dated 4/6/2000 1:47:16 PM EST, gypsybilll yahoo.com writes: << The hood on my '64 F100 does not sit correctly at the rear where it meets the cowl (rides way too high)... have tried adjusting the hinges where they attach to the cab and the hood to no avail... is this ill-fitting caused by "tired" springs or a combination of that and worn hinges... before I replace just the springs I want to know if it would be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or lowering it.. >> My 64 does the exactly the same thing only its only about 1/2 inch high at this time . I sure hope it doesn't get any worse .. Steve 64 F100 swb ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" Subject: Re: Hood Fit Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 23:46:27 -0400 Does it have the original hinges or has someone replaced them with the wrong ones sometime in the past? -----Original Message----- From: Bill To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>Date: Thursday, April 06, 2000 2:46 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Hood Fit >The hood on my '64 F100 does not sit correctly at the rear where it >meets the cowl (rides way too high)... have tried adjusting the hinges >where they attach to the cab and the hood to no avail... is this >ill-fitting caused by "tired" springs or a combination of that and worn >hinges... before I replace just the springs I want to know if it would >be more prudent to just replace the whole hinge/spring deal.. the hood >stays up ok and seems to have "normal" resistance when raising or >lowering it.. > >Thanks, > >Bill in Mobile >'64 F100 Shortbox ('70 351W/'76 C4) > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 00:06:55 -0400 Maybe you should check out the Petronix Ignitor Kit. It's a device that fits in your distributor in place of the points that will change you over to electronic ignition & you will be able to keep the original look on the outside of the distributor. No one will know but you,unless they take the cap off. -----Original Message----- From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis To: ford trucklist61-79 <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>Date: Thursday, April 06, 2000 3:40 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Can i points dist. be converted?? >Group >can I take a standard points distributor and gut it and add the parts >from a duraspark >distributor????Especially the FE dist. Can i take say a 302 >duraspark(most common) in my truck yards and use the insides for a FE >dist????? >Is there a how to anywhere????? >Joe > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ From: JJJJJGRANT aol.comDate: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 00:03:09 EDT Subject: Re: cushioned hitch i used to have a dmi quick cushinion on my truck, it was nice, the receicer tube pulled out 11" and pivoted from side to side, very easy hook up for one person, plus the cushion really helped when pulling equipment. ------------------------------ From: "Josh Assing" Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 21:10:22 -0700 Subject: Re: Can i points dist. be converted?? > Maybe you should check out the Petronix Ignitor Kit. It's a device that I (second/third) this.. I have one on my 72F100 and have had one on 6 other various cars. I think this is one of the best investments you can make for your older car. ------------------------------ From: "Scott Jensen" Subject: Re: Power steering pump pulley Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 07:43:11 -0700 The special tool for installing the pulley is a bolt with a nut threaded on, then the thickest fender washer you have laying around the garage slid between the nut and the pulley. I usually lock the end of the bolt in the vise, hold the pump and turn the nut. I tried the dumb way of removing the pulley once. Heated it up and used a three prong puller over the outside. I pulled it 3/4" out. Belts wouldn't line up, was a real mess. The shop that did pull it off didn't believe that I'd bent it. It wasn't warped, just out too far. New pulley cost more than the power steering unit. I went to the wreaking yard and measured the proper distance. Went back to the shop so they could tell me the shop press won't straighten a pulley. I was real careful lining everything up, but it didn't bend it back straight. The shop didn't charge me. Went back home and a few blows with the BFH and a socket did the trick. The pulley probably isn't as strong as it once was, but it's lasted many miles. Now I'll just go back to that shop when I need pulley work. ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #61 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 61-79-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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