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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 05 Apr 2000 09:19:40 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 09:19:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #59
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 04 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 059

In This Issue:
Sheesh
RE. Subject: C6 rebuild
Kroil Penetrant?
Steering (again)
Re: Clutch/Brake Pedal bushings?? / three speed to floor.
carrier bearing
Re: Clutch/Brake Pedal bushings?? / three speed to floor.
Re: Clutch/Brake Pedal bushings?? / three speed to floor.
Looking for 2 things
Re: Steering (again)
Re: Clutch/Brake Pedal bushings?? / three
What is it called
Re: carrier bearing
Re: What is it called
Re: What is it called
Re: What is it called
Re: [61-79-list]kingpin
Re: What is it called
Gas Tank Relocation
Re: Kroil Penetrant?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Sheesh
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 09:27:45 -0400

Wish writes it and I agree with it.

Azie


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 10:50:10 -0700
From: Scott grossen ucs.orst.edu>
Subject: RE. Subject: C6 rebuild


i rebuilt my c-6 when i redid my truck, its surprisingly easy. i went
down to napa to get the rebuild kit, and the best one they had was $70
it included all the clutch plates gaskets and seals and a filter, it did
not include the band, i bought mine froma a ford dealer for $35, i would
reccomend putting in a shift kit while you rebuild, since its allready
open. the rebuild kit doesnt include any of the bushings, and if your
oil pump is bad i think that that was $185 or $85 i can't remember.
the only special tools that were required that i can remember were snap
ring pliers, most of the rings are internals that are big enough to just
use a screwdriver, i used a great book it came from a class on automatic
transmission rebuilding, but most of the stuff in it you can figure out
fairly easy the one tip that i got out of it was that unless your
reverse is really bad dont take out the last clutch pack in the bottom.
the rebuild took about four hours, and that included cleaning the
outside of the case with a wire brush and solvent, should have steam
cleaned it. so as long as you keep the parts in order the clutches and
planetarys just fall out in order make sure you dont drop them then just
put them back in its easiest to set it up on its end to put the clutches
and planetary back in so that you can get the clutch plats back on the
splines and the input shaft lined up.if you have any more questions i
can answer them of the list i guess

------------------------------

From: "Gary L. Perry" fwi.com>
Subject: Kroil Penetrant?
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 14:47:29 -0500

Where can I get this penetrating oil. Books and guys on list say it's best one.
I've tried auto stores. A national store chain and order number would be a plus.
"G"


------------------------------

From: "Dave Emerick" hotmail.com>
Subject: Steering (again)
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 15:18:51 EST

OK...OK...IF I was looking to replace the power cylinder assist steering on
my '75 F-250 4x4, with the later 78-79 power box steering, where might I
land the needed parts? I'm sure I can pick up a rebuilt box, and the
various linkage (drag-link, tie rod ends, adjusters) but any suggestions on
where to find the pitman arm? I've checked local wrecking yards...seems I'm
looking for gold. Appreciate the help....
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 13:57:11 -0700
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch/Brake Pedal bushings?? / three speed to floor.

I removed the pedal assembly from my 74 4x4 for the same problem. I found that
the plastic bushings and rods were in good shape but the aluminum parts
(sleeves) that are staked into the pedal frame had started to work free and
move. Realizing that it wasn't something i could repair i replaced them with a
bronze bushing that made.
I had to bolt them into place. it wasn't an easy job in total but i feel more
secure now.

If it is just the plastic bushings they are easily found. As i was putting the
whole assy back into the truck i used cardboard from a shoe box with a bit of
neversieze on it between the dash, firewall and the pedal assy to stop the
annoying squeaks
(wish i could stop the spring noise).

Tony Marino wrote:

> Hey All-
>
> I've started to notice that two of my trucks (76 F-250 4x4 and 67 F-100
> 2x4) when pushing on the clutch pedal initially, will draw the brake pedal
> to the side and wiggle it. Basically, it's kinda scary to be able to feel
> your brake pedal wobble as you use the clutch. I was curious as to
> anybody having a kit that includes new bushings to fix this, or do I just
> have metal sleeves, or rods that run through each other that are worn
> out? Anybody tear one of these assemblies apart? I don't want to get
> into it if I'm not going to be able to solve it in a matter of hours.
>
> On a side note- I put a Hurst 3 speed column to floor shifter conversion
> into the '67. Talk about a royal pain in the you-know-what!!! I highly
> suggest people pull the tranny while doing this, rather than trying to do
> it all in the truck. (although it is possible as a lot of swear words
> proved last night). 2nd gear is a reach and a half, and I've only
> screwed up thinking reverse was a creeper gear once (thank God nobody was
> behind me!- blame it all on my NP435's in everything!) But it is pretty
> cool, and for $110 I suggest any of you guys who don't like column
> shifting, to take a long day, or weekend and go for it!
>
> Ok, time to pretend to do more work. ;-)
>
> Tony Marino
> redneck raex.com
> (waiting for pictures for that steering conversion tech article)
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 14:28:05 -0700
From: Don Grossman mac.com>
Subject: carrier bearing

Hey all

Just a couple quick questions. Does the carrier bearing on a
split rear drive shaft need to be pressed off or can I change it with
a BFG or something of that nature? Second is the starter. Spins
just fine but the drive gear doesn't always engage the flywheel. The
problem only gets worse as the starter gets hotter. Early in the
morning it is fine but if I drive it for 20min and try to start it
back up the problem arises. Let it cool for 1/2 hour starts right up
again. I can hear the starter spinning. Should I try to fix it or
just do a quick swap with a rebuilt?

TIA
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

43 GPW
63 F-100 4x4
77 F250
99 Contour

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 17:26:18 -0400
From: William King bgnet.bgsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Clutch/Brake Pedal bushings?? / three speed to floor.

Tony,
That clutch-brake pedal thing must be an Ohio thing. :-) My 68 had a serious
case of the 'wiggles' when I bought it too. I ended up replacing mine with
a fresh junk-yard unit. The brake and clutch pedal ride on the same pivot
rod (with a clip on the end, to keep the brake pedal from falling out). This
pivot rod rides on plastic bushings. My bushings were shot years before I
bought my truck, so the pivot rod ate into the metal mounting bracket enough
to make the holes oval. What a mess. Anyway, I was able to replace my entire
pivot bracket (it's about 5 or 6 holes under the dash), pedals, and the pivot.
I don't see why you couldn't pull your entire bracket out in about and hour
(or two), and replace the bushings. Bushing replacement looked easy when I
had mine out. Not much to it. I'm not sure who carries the bushings, or
if they're available. Sorry.

>I've started to notice that two of my trucks (76 F-250 4x4 and 67 F-100
>2x4) when pushing on the clutch pedal initially, will draw the brake pedal
>to the side and wiggle it. Basically, it's kinda scary to be able to feel
>your brake pedal wobble as you use the clutch. I was curious as to
>anybody having a kit that includes new bushings to fix this, or do I just
>have metal sleeves, or rods that run through each other that are worn
>out? Anybody tear one of these assemblies apart? I don't want to get
>into it if I'm not going to be able to solve it in a matter of hours.

I bought a Hurst 3 speed floor shifter a couple years ago. I returned it.
I was utterly unimpressed with the entire shifter (especially when compared
to the 4 speed Hurst shifters, which are fantastic). My 3 speed shifter was
missing chrome plating in parts, didn't have shifter stops, and the metal
brackets were thin and cheap. It was worse than the junky 3 speed shifter
I had on the truck at the time. Sorry you had a hard time with yours. That's
a shame.

>On a side note- I put a Hurst 3 speed column to floor shifter conversion
>into the '67. Talk about a royal pain in the you-know-what!!! I highly
>suggest people pull the tranny while doing this, rather than trying to do
>it all in the truck. (although it is possible as a lot of swear words
>proved last night). 2nd gear is a reach and a half,
>>>snippage<<<

Ohio Bill
1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed
1968 Torino GT 429 4v 4 speed

------------------------------

From: "Jeff Harsha" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch/Brake Pedal bushings?? / three speed to floor.
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 15:43:41 -0700

I also purchase one of the Hurst Indy three speed shifters and have the same
basic reaction, pretty much a piece of junk. I would like to replace the
column shifter on my '69 f100 as the linkage is getting real sloppy and I
have had no luck finding the necessary repair parts. Does anyone know of a
good floor shifter for the three speed?

BigJeff
'69 f100 ranger 390/3SP with overdrive
----- Original Message -----
From: "William King" bgnet.bgsu.edu>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Clutch/Brake Pedal bushings?? / three speed to
floor.


> Tony,
> That clutch-brake pedal thing must be an Ohio thing. :-) My 68 had a
serious
> case of the 'wiggles' when I bought it too. I ended up replacing mine
with
> a fresh junk-yard unit. The brake and clutch pedal ride on the same pivot
> rod (with a clip on the end, to keep the brake pedal from falling out).
This
> pivot rod rides on plastic bushings. My bushings were shot years before I
> bought my truck, so the pivot rod ate into the metal mounting bracket
enough
> to make the holes oval. What a mess. Anyway, I was able to replace my
entire
> pivot bracket (it's about 5 or 6 holes under the dash), pedals, and the
pivot.
> I don't see why you couldn't pull your entire bracket out in about and
hour
> (or two), and replace the bushings. Bushing replacement looked easy when
I
> had mine out. Not much to it. I'm not sure who carries the bushings, or
> if they're available. Sorry.
>
> >I've started to notice that two of my trucks (76 F-250 4x4 and 67 F-100
> >2x4) when pushing on the clutch pedal initially, will draw the brake
pedal
> >to the side and wiggle it. Basically, it's kinda scary to be able to
feel
> >your brake pedal wobble as you use the clutch. I was curious as to
> >anybody having a kit that includes new bushings to fix this, or do I just
> >have metal sleeves, or rods that run through each other that are worn
> >out? Anybody tear one of these assemblies apart? I don't want to get
> >into it if I'm not going to be able to solve it in a matter of hours.
>
> I bought a Hurst 3 speed floor shifter a couple years ago. I returned it.
> I was utterly unimpressed with the entire shifter (especially when
compared
> to the 4 speed Hurst shifters, which are fantastic). My 3 speed shifter
was
> missing chrome plating in parts, didn't have shifter stops, and the metal
> brackets were thin and cheap. It was worse than the junky 3 speed shifter
> I had on the truck at the time. Sorry you had a hard time with yours.
That's
> a shame.
>
> >On a side note- I put a Hurst 3 speed column to floor shifter conversion
> >into the '67. Talk about a royal pain in the you-know-what!!! I highly
> >suggest people pull the tranny while doing this, rather than trying to do
> >it all in the truck. (although it is possible as a lot of swear words
> >proved last night). 2nd gear is a reach and a half,
> >>>snippage<<<
>
> Ohio Bill
> 1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed
> 1968 Torino GT 429 4v 4 speed
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 19:44:40 -0400
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis p3.net>
Subject: Looking for 2 things

Group,
I'm looking for disc brake dust shields from a 76-79 dana 44 and also an

adjustable drag link???The rod that mounts from the axle to the frame??
Anybody with help can you email me
thanks
Joe


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 19:09:30 -0500
From: Ron Martens flash.net>
Subject: Re: Steering (again)

I have a powersteering box with a pitman arm, the box needs gaskets or o-rings,
I replaced it cause of power steering fluid leaking, I'm in the Dallas, Texas
area and the price will be right. Ron

Dave Emerick wrote:

> OK...OK...IF I was looking to replace the power cylinder assist steering on
> my '75 F-250 4x4, with the later 78-79 power box steering, where might I
> land the needed parts? I'm sure I can pick up a rebuilt box, and the
> various linkage (drag-link, tie rod ends, adjusters) but any suggestions on
> where to find the pitman arm? I've checked local wrecking yards...seems I'm
> looking for gold. Appreciate the help....
> ______________________________________________________
> >
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.


------------------------------

From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:31:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Clutch/Brake Pedal bushings?? / three

At 03:43 PM 04:04:2000 -0700, Jeff Harsha wrote:
>I also purchase one of the Hurst Indy three speed shifters and have the same
>basic reaction, pretty much a piece of junk. I would like to replace the
>column shifter on my '69 f100 as the linkage is getting real sloppy and I
>have had no luck finding the necessary repair parts. Does anyone know of a
>good floor shifter for the three speed?
>
>BigJeff

Try the swapmeets, get a shifter for an old Firebird with a 3 speed,
'67 or '68, rebuild parts are still readily available, you'll have to rebend
the shifter rods, but also should use your old levers that mount to the
tranny. To shorten up the throws, you should drill new holes in the levers
for the shift rods. This will make the shifting effort a little higher, but
you won't have to move the stick as far...

You will have to make a custom bracket to mount the shifter, I used a
piece of 4" channel iron, and a couple of muffler clamps of the appropriate
size to clamp to the tail housing in my '63, later 3-speeds may already have
the correct tail housing to mount a floor shifter. Other than the custom
bracket you'll need to drill a big enough hole in the floorboard, I used a
3" holesaw....and a pair of tinsnips....and a die grinder....and a lot of bad
words....and a few cold adult beverages....and a big shifter boot....




Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in.....
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: What is it called
Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 19:50:14 PDT

On my 67 F100 I have a valve of some type located on the driverside frame
rail, all of the brakelines feed into it, what is it called, mine is severly
rusted, this is probably a stupid question but I will never know if I don't
ask.


Chris
'67 F100
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: carrier bearing
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 01:04:15 -0400

Yes the center carrier bearing needs to be pressed off & the new one pressed
back on.Usually about a 15 min. job to put a new carrier bearing on the
shaft.(after you have the shaft removed from the truck)
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Grossman mac.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 5:27 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] carrier bearing


>Hey all
>
> Just a couple quick questions. Does the carrier bearing on a
>split rear drive shaft need to be pressed off or can I change it with
>a BFG or something of that nature? Second is the starter. Spins
>just fine but the drive gear doesn't always engage the flywheel. The
>problem only gets worse as the starter gets hotter. Early in the
>morning it is fine but if I drive it for 20min and try to start it
>back up the problem arises. Let it cool for 1/2 hour starts right up
>again. I can hear the starter spinning. Should I try to fix it or
>just do a quick swap with a rebuilt?
>
>TIA
>--
>Don Grossman
>duckdon mac.com
>
>43 GPW
>63 F-100 4x4
>77 F250
>99 Contour
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Keith Kubiak" <55fordf100 home.com>
Subject: Re: What is it called
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 21:56:17 -0700

Proportioning valve....It is there to ensure proper pressure to the front
and rear brakes due to the differences in brake designs. That's all I
remember from my college auto classes.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 7:50 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] What is it called


> On my 67 F100 I have a valve of some type located on the driverside frame
> rail, all of the brakelines feed into it, what is it called, mine is
severly
> rusted, this is probably a stupid question but I will never know if I
don't
> ask.
>
>
> Chris
> '67 F100
> ______________________________________________________
> >
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: What is it called
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 01:07:17 -0400

My guess is that it would be the proportioning valve.
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Worley hotmail.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, April 04, 2000 10:51 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] What is it called


>On my 67 F100 I have a valve of some type located on the driverside frame
>rail, all of the brakelines feed into it, what is it called, mine is
severly
>rusted, this is probably a stupid question but I will never know if I don't
>ask.
>
>
>Chris
>'67 F100
>______________________________________________________
> >
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 01:11:03 EDT
Subject: Re: What is it called

its a brake proportioning valve

------------------------------

From: "Jerry Splawn" tcac.net>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 12:34:04 -0500




OK, I tried heating the area with a propane torch, it moved about an inch. I
heated the area for over an hour. Will the propane not get hot enough??? Do
I need a special torch tip or move to a hotter gas like MAPP ????

-----Original Message-----
From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Ken Payne
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 7:36 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: [61-79-list]kingpin


At 11:46 AM 3/22/00 -0600, you wrote:
>I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck kingpin !!!!!! The
>sucker just will not come out!!
>Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out?

Either

a) heat the area up with a torch, this will usually do the trick.
Get it as hot as you feel is safely possible. The kingpin
sleeve is either brass (very likely) or vinyl (not very likely
unless its been swapped recently). The different metals
expand at different rates and this will usually free it up.

b) remove the i-beam and have a machine shop with a hydraulic
press get it out

Drilling will take an eternity and pressing it out will only
run about 30 bucks, maybe less.

-Ken Payne

==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.

==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 23:22:24 -0700
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: What is it called

It is actually called a brake pressure differential valve. It senses a change
in brake pressure between the front and the rear brakes and turns the dash light
on to indicate a problem. It is not a proportioning valve because there is no
need to proportion braking front to rear on a 4 wheel drum brake system.
Jason
Christopher Worley wrote:

> On my 67 F100 I have a valve of some type located on the driverside frame
> rail, all of the brakelines feed into it, what is it called, mine is severly
> rusted, this is probably a stupid question but I will never know if I don't
> ask.
>
> Chris
> '67 F100
> ______________________________________________________
> >
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.




------------------------------

From: MyBadAzzFord aol.com
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 08:07:51 EDT
Subject: Gas Tank Relocation

Hey Y'all,
Dad says we're gonna start putting my truck back together soon (keep your
fingers crossed, I've heard this too many times). Anyhow...one of the things
we're gonna do is move the gas tank out of the cab. Carolina Classics has a
tank relocator kit and I was wondering if any of y'all had tried it? Or is
there another way that may be better? I think I heard once that a gas tank
out of an old T*yota car would fit between the frame under the bed. Any
ideas y'all could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :o)

Mel

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 09:20:36 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Kroil Penetrant?

Try this: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kanolabs.com/home.html
I've never seen it for sale anywhere. I've always ordered directly from
them. The thing I like about it is the smell. PB Blaster works about as
well, but it seems like it takes a couple of hours to get the smell off of
my hands.


At 02:47 PM 4/4/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Where can I get this penetrating oil. Books and guys on list say it's best
>one.
>I've tried auto stores. A national store chain and order number would be....


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