Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages
contained in these archives without consent from the respective
author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on
any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by
individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors.

Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 30 Mar 2000 23:40:23 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 23:40:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #54
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 29 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 054

In This Issue:
Re: TRUCK PICTURES......
Re: TRUCK PICTURES......
Autos
Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single?
power brake swap
Re: TRUCK PICTURES......
Re: 1975 F100 4x4
Free C4 transmission & '78 $100 Sacramento Area
Re: Autos
headers to duals or 3-inch single - Part 2
Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single?
Duals
Torque converters
Purchase 4X4 '75
Re: 1975 F100 4x4
Re: 1975 F100 4x4
Re: 1975 F100 4x4
Siezed Bolts
Re: Siezed Bolts
Re: Siezed bolt
Re: Siezed Bolts
Re: 1975 F100 4x4
Re: 1975 F100 4x4
Re: Siezed bolt
Re: Siezed Bolts
Re: Siezed Bolts
Re: Siezed FE Exhaust Manifold Bolts
Windsor or Cleveland?
Re: Windsor or Cleveland?
Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single?
Re: Siezed Bolts
Re: Unusual Bed

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 23:16:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: TRUCK PICTURES......

At 06:48 PM 3/29/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Nice site Matt. The only suggestion I have is that you should add it to the
>FTE Hot 100 site list. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.chaoticdelusions.com/truck
>
>The sites which are listed there have kinda been in a "ratings slump." It
>would be nice to see some more traffic.

I can change that! Its not fair with the sites that have been around
a while because they have a chance to build up more votes. The
votes are supposed to be reset every month but I'm lazy (not!). I'll
reset them now.

Ken



------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 23:19:08 EST
Subject: Re: TRUCK PICTURES......

I am all for it! Especially since the early counts were subject to multiple
votes.

Stock Man

> The
> votes are supposed to be reset every month but I'm lazy (not!). I'll
> reset them now.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 20:38:32 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Autos

>>>>>>>>>>>>I have no clue as to whether or not I'd like one in a
larger truck or a tractor,

We have Allison autos in most of our large trucks.I personally don't
care for them .Always "hunting "for gears and shifting at the wrong
time.

>>>>>>>>>>>.but they seem to be holding up very well.

The ones we have are very very reliable.

>>>>>>>>.Not trying to sway anyone either way. It's still a matter of opinion

I'm with you Azie,I own 2 manual trucks and a automatic equipped truck.
I like all three of them.

>>>>>>>>>>I know they are building new trucks with autos, but I haven't heard much good on the reliability with 80- 100K lb weight factors and 1800 lb/ft torque.

We don't have that much weight or torque.We run class 8 dumps with
plows.

>>>>>>>>> The company I work for still specs their trucks with 10 or 13 speeds depending on the application.

Our problem is the drivers.Some of these guys can wreck a clutch in one
night.The trucks set most of the time with only some of the more
experienced drivers using them.But when the snow flies everybody and
their brother grabs a plow and goes to work.They get the autos.and the
more
experienced guys get the 10 spds.

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single?
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 00:14:00 -0500

Do they make fenderwell headers for that application??? (THEY---Anyone)
-----Original Message-----
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:20 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single?


>> This presents a problem in plumbing the headers. Either I have to run
from
>> the collector down and under the tank on the driver's side (low-hanging)
or
>> run across as far forward as practical, then from there, either take it
back
>> to duals (crossing back over or running right alongside one another) or
run
>> both headers into a single exhaust, quite probably a 3-inch.
>> I would solicit all opinions, comments and suggestions on the possible
>> approaches.
>>
>> Jim Elliott
>
>Jim,
>
>This is a common problem for this type of tank, which a lot of us have. The
>"off road kits" for dual exhausts run the driver's side pipe under the
drive
>train then down the right side of the drive shaft between the ds and frame
>along with the right side pipe. Then it crosses back over behind the diff.
>This makes for a very long left side pipe and an unbalanced situation IMHO.
>I have also seen rigs that had the left side pipe run on the outside of the
>left frame rail. I don't care for that either. So, I stuck with the stock
>setup (351m) and then opted for a high flow dual outlet muffler. From the
>outside it looks like duals; for the smog cops it's still legal.
>
>Sidepipes? Stacks behind the cab? (It's a joke.)
>
>-- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
>1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Mike" connect.ab.ca>
Subject: power brake swap
Date: (No, or invalid, date.)

Tim, you can use any booster from 68-72 on your 68. The 67 pedal geometry is a little different (like a lot of
other things exclusive to the 67). The boosters from 73 up are bigger physically, but they also bolt up.


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: TRUCK PICTURES......
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 00:27:24 -0500

nice truck!! A license plate like that isn't allowed here in Ohio.
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Senn avistacom.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 3:38 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: TRUCK PICTURES......


>speaking of truck pictures . . .
>
>i don't always have a whole lot to contribute to the list but i love
reading
>everything that comes across . . . i am in the process of putting together
a
>website for my truck . . . it's at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.chaoticdelusions.com/truck .
>. . let me know what you all think . . . thanks!!
>
>
>
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 00:48:15 -0500

The box will be your biggest expense.They are hard to find without rust
unless you live somewhere that they don't use salt on the roads.As for the
fenders & cab corners --look in the JC Whitney Catalog.They have all that
sheet metal replacement parts at reasonable prices.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Williams megavision.com>
To: Ford List <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 11:20 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] 1975 F100 4x4


>HI All,
> I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one
>tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck
has
>a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air.
>The tranny, transfer case, tie rod ends and a few other drivetrain items
>have been rebuilt in the last 35,000 miles and work very good. The motor is
>on its last leg and would need a rebuild, but he has another 390 to go with
>the truck that has a very good bottom end but needs new valves in the heads
>replaced. The truck has solid floors but very rusty fenders and box and cab
>corners. I have never restored a PU and do not know the price for
>aftermarket fenders, or a rust free box?
>I am looking for some prices for fenders? decent box? ect.... The truck
also
>has a newer battery, but will soon need tires.
>I am going back to look at the truck tomorrow but would like some feedback
>from the list on a truck like this.
>The price is $600.00 for truck and extra motor.
>
>Thanks for any feedback.
>
>
>Tom
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Carver" ncwebsurfer.com>
Subject: Free C4 transmission & '78 $100 Sacramento Area
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 21:35:01 -0800

Another potential gem appeared in the Grass valley paper FREE section:

Ford C-4 transmission 530-272-5686


While I'm at it, here's some more from the regular section:


'72 Ford F650 Steel Flatbed with sideboards, $1250 530-273-5081

5th wheel tailgate fits full size Ford PU, $100 530-432-3184

'78 Ford F250 XLT Ex Cab w/dump bed, tow pkg, extras $3500 OBO
530-272-7643
It's in the 4wd section with a '85 F250 tow pkg truck, same person
same price, but no specific mention that either is 4wd

'69 Ford Camper Special w/ extra motor and
'77 Ford F150 4x4 blown engine make offer 530-265-9186

'69 F250 in bed king of the road camper Runs great 134K
$1600 obo 530-272-1296

Saved another deal for the last -

'78 Ford PU, non-opp, Toolbox & lumber rack $100 530-432-0234






------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 22:25:23 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Autos

I can understand having a auto in a plow operation in a tight back and fill application (city streets, parking lots). On the highway, I wouldn't see a disadvantage either way.
The trucks that I work on vary from a 3 axle tractor/ semi trailer, 3 axle tractor/ 30-30 doubles and up to a 4 axle tractor/ 4 axle trailer with gross legal weights of up to 105,500
lbs. About the maximum for a non pilot car OTR truck.
Jason

scott wrote:

> >>>>>>>>>>>>I have no clue as to whether or not I'd like one in a
> larger truck or a tractor,
>
> We have Allison autos in most of our large trucks.I personally don't
> care for them .Always "hunting "for gears and shifting at the wrong
> time.
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>.but they seem to be holding up very well.
>
> The ones we have are very very reliable.
>
> >>>>>>>>.Not trying to sway anyone either way. It's still a matter of opinion
>
> I'm with you Azie,I own 2 manual trucks and a automatic equipped truck.
> I like all three of them.
>
> >>>>>>>>>>I know they are building new trucks with autos, but I haven't heard much good on the reliability with 80- 100K lb weight factors and 1800 lb/ft torque.
>
> We don't have that much weight or torque.We run class 8 dumps with
> plows.
>
> >>>>>>>>> The company I work for still specs their trucks with 10 or 13 speeds depending on the application.
>
> Our problem is the drivers.Some of these guys can wreck a clutch in one
> night.The trucks set most of the time with only some of the more
> experienced drivers using them.But when the snow flies everybody and
> their brother grabs a plow and goes to work.They get the autos.and the
> more
> experienced guys get the 10 spds.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.




------------------------------

From: "InkDezJim" email.msn.com>
Subject: headers to duals or 3-inch single - Part 2
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 06:34:52 -0600

Thanks for the feedback (more is still cool). To clarify a couple of points,
my truck is a 390 with a C-6. The headers, unfortunately, are long-tube
headers, I think Hedman. When I picked them up I had not gotten fixated on
the tank relocation. After reading some of the responses, It would make good
sense to cross over in front of the converter, just under the oilpan (since
I have the 2wd front sump), but the length of the headers will make that
impossible. On the other, I hate to cross over under the transmission,
because of throwing that heat near the automatic.

Hmmm. Anyone need a set of long headers, used but blasted and coated with a
true high-temp paint from POR?
Grin

Jim Elliott
69 F-100 Explorer




------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:45:14 EST
Subject: Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single?

Another option for pipe routing would be to bring the left bank over to the
right side running both down together then at the rear, you would take the
pipe from eh right bank and bring it over to the left side. This would
balance out the system much better than that overly long left pipe.

In a message dated 3/29/2000 9:15:46 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:

>
> > This presents a problem in plumbing the headers. Either I have to run
> from
> > the collector down and under the tank on the driver's side (low-hanging)
> or
> > run across as far forward as practical, then from there, either take it
> back
> > to duals (crossing back over or running right alongside one another) or
> run
> > both headers into a single exhaust, quite probably a 3-inch.
> > I would solicit all opinions, comments and suggestions on the possible
> > approaches.
> >
> > Jim Elliott
>
> Jim,
>
> This is a common problem for this type of tank, which a lot of us have. The
> "off road kits" for dual exhausts run the driver's side pipe under the
drive
> train then down the right side of the drive shaft between the ds and frame
> along with the right side pipe. Then it crosses back over behind the diff.
> This makes for a very long left side pipe and an unbalanced situation IMHO.
> I have also seen rigs that had the left side pipe run on the outside of the
> left frame rail. I don't care for that either. So, I stuck with the stock
> setup (351m) and then opted for a high flow dual outlet muffler. From the
> outside it looks like duals; for the smog cops it's still legal.
>
> Sidepipes? Stacks behind the cab? (It's a joke.)
>

------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Duals
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:06:14 -0500

Jim E. writes: >> This presents a problem in plumbing the headers. Either
I have to run from
the collector down and under the tank on the driver's side (low-hanging) or
run across as far forward as practical, then from there, either take it
back
to duals (crossing back over or running right alongside one another) or run
both headers into a single exhaust, quite probably a 3-inch.
I would solicit all opinions, comments and suggestions on the possible
approaches.<<

For the sake of looks alone, I would route them down the passenger side,
side by side, and crossover with one of them and run true duals out the
rearend. I just like the looks at the rear. There is really no advantage.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Torque converters
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:19:40 -0500

Dr Wayne S. writes: >>I'm thinking about buying a '78 or '79 Econoline 250
or 350 with C6
transmission, for towing a 9000 lb. load. I have heard a lot about the
possibility of equipping a tow vehicle with a torque converter designed for
towing big loads. Anyone have any experience? Would the expense be
justified? Thanks for any information.<<

Skip the expense Doc. Go buy you a good aux coller and plumb it in. Your
C6 will perform OK and last just as long. Keep it cool - that is the
important part. All JMHO..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Purchase 4X4 '75
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:27:04 -0500

Tom W. writes: >>I am going back to look at the truck tomorrow but would
like some feedback
from the list on a truck like this.
The price is $600.00 for truck and extra motor.<<

Buy it... The drive line will bring that and is worth every penny provided
it is in good shape like you say.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:19:01 GMT
Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4

> I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one
>tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck has

>a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air.


If you really have your heart set on a 390 instead of a 360, I'd check that
motor out a little bit first ...ask him if its been changed out ever, if not,
check the VIN, likely there's a Y in the VIN which would indicate a 360 not
a 390 ... I've never seen a true FACTORY 4x4 with a 390, but since the externals
are the same, its easy enough to call a 360 a 390 and no one would know ...
There's a trick to check the stroke, use a wooden dowel, or other solid measuring
type device, put the piston at TDC and push the dowel on top of it ... mark
the stick ... then turn the motor 180 degrees and mark the stick again ... the
distance should be close to 3.75" if its closer to 3.5, then its a 360 ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: Matt Senn avistacom.net>
Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:34:34 -0800

also, isn't the crankshaft "shaved" a little bit to allow clearance for the
piston skirts due to the larger stroke on the 390s??

-----Original Message-----
From: wish [mailto:wish ford-trucks.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 7:19 AM
To: Ford List
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 1975 F100 4x4


> I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one
>tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck
has

>a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air.


If you really have your heart set on a 390 instead of a 360, I'd check that
motor out a little bit first ...ask him if its been changed out ever, if
not,
check the VIN, likely there's a Y in the VIN which would indicate a 360 not
a 390 ... I've never seen a true FACTORY 4x4 with a 390, but since the
externals
are the same, its easy enough to call a 360 a 390 and no one would know ...
There's a trick to check the stroke, use a wooden dowel, or other solid
measuring
type device, put the piston at TDC and push the dowel on top of it ... mark
the stick ... then turn the motor 180 degrees and mark the stick again ...
the
distance should be close to 3.75" if its closer to 3.5, then its a 360 ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.



------------------------------

From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:27:09 -0500
Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4

The crankshaft isn't, but the pistons are. The pistons have arches cut into the
skirt to clear the crank throw.

-Ted




Matt Senn avistacom.net> on 03/30/2000 10:34:34 AM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 1975 F100 4x4



also, isn't the crankshaft "shaved" a little bit to allow clearance for the
piston skirts due to the larger stroke on the 390s??

-----Original Message-----
From: wish [mailto:wish ford-trucks.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 7:19 AM
To: Ford List
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 1975 F100 4x4


> I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one
>tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck
has

>a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air.


If you really have your heart set on a 390 instead of a 360, I'd check that
motor out a little bit first ...ask him if its been changed out ever, if
not,
check the VIN, likely there's a Y in the VIN which would indicate a 360 not
a 390 ... I've never seen a true FACTORY 4x4 with a 390, but since the
externals
are the same, its easy enough to call a 360 a 390 and no one would know ...
There's a trick to check the stroke, use a wooden dowel, or other solid
measuring
type device, put the piston at TDC and push the dowel on top of it ... mark
the stick ... then turn the motor 180 degrees and mark the stick again ...
the
distance should be close to 3.75" if its closer to 3.5, then its a 360 ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.


==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.











------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 12:58:49 -0600
From: Jon Beller ericsson.com>
Subject: Siezed Bolts

I have at least the top three bolts on an exhaust man. that simply will
not budge...(already ripped the head off of one). I need to replace the
gasket and I don't think the bolts have been turned in at least 10
years. I've been told about using a torch to heat the bolt and then let
candle wax do the work, but I may leave that for a last resort. 3 in 1
oil and Gunk Liquid Wrench haven't done the trick yet... Has anybody
got any suggestions?


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:02:12 EST
Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts

hit em with a hammer, sometimes the jolt will unfreeze em.

Darrell

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:02:29 -0600
From: Jon Beller ericsson.com>
Subject: Re: Siezed bolt

Forgot to mention:
'76 F150 Ranger XLT w/390


------------------------------

From: Matt Senn avistacom.net>
Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:01:32 -0800

wd-40

-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Beller [mailto:jon.beller ericsson.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 11:59 AM
To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Subject: [61-79-list] Siezed Bolts


I have at least the top three bolts on an exhaust man. that simply will
not budge...(already ripped the head off of one). I need to replace the
gasket and I don't think the bolts have been turned in at least 10
years. I've been told about using a torch to heat the bolt and then let
candle wax do the work, but I may leave that for a last resort. 3 in 1
oil and Gunk Liquid Wrench haven't done the trick yet... Has anybody
got any suggestions?

==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:16:36 -0800

Tom
The price sounds good especially with the extra motor. One other thing I
would watch out for on this model truck is the power steering. A 75 has a
ram assist power steering system and parts are getting hard to come by now.
There are some places that will rebuild the ram system but it is expensive.
Later models 78-79 used an integral power steering box. Some people on the
list may have retrofitted this system.

Body parts are still available. A box though would be better bought whole
from the south-west. Stay away from import sheet metal. It's worth the
exra $ for factory parts here.

Tom H.

>
> HI All,
> I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I
> looked at one
> tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to
> sell. The truck has
> a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air.
> The tranny, transfer case, tie rod ends and a few other
> drivetrain items
> have been rebuilt in the last 35,000 miles and work very
> good. The motor is
> on its last leg and would need a rebuild, but he has another
> 390 to go with
> the truck that has a very good bottom end but needs new
> valves in the heads
> replaced. The truck has solid floors but very rusty fenders
> and box and cab
> corners. I have never restored a PU and do not know the price for
> aftermarket fenders, or a rust free box?
> I am looking for some prices for fenders? decent box? ect....
> The truck also
> has a newer battery, but will soon need tires.
> I am going back to look at the truck tomorrow but would like
> some feedback
> from the list on a truck like this.
> The price is $600.00 for truck and extra motor.
>
> Thanks for any feedback.
>
>
> Tom
>
>


------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 19:26:56 GMT
Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4

>The crankshaft isn't, but the pistons are. The pistons have arches cut into
the
>skirt to clear the crank throw.
>
>also, isn't the crankshaft "shaved" a little bit to allow clearance for the

>piston skirts due to the larger stroke on the 390s??
>


Sorry folks, I was trying to come up with something for him to check before
he bought the truck if it was a concern. Its hard to see the pistons and crank
without pulling the motor apart ...

Also there was lots of swapping pistons to change the compression ratio, my
76 390 had 410 pistons in it, presumably to keep the compression ratio down
around 8:1 ...



>
>> I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one
>>tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck
>has
>
>>a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air.
>
>
>If you really have your heart set on a 390 instead of a 360, I'd check that

>motor out a little bit first ...ask him if its been changed out ever, if
>not,
>check the VIN, likely there's a Y in the VIN which would indicate a 360 not

>a 390 ... I've never seen a true FACTORY 4x4 with a 390, but since the
>externals
>are the same, its easy enough to call a 360 a 390 and no one would know ...

> There's a trick to check the stroke, use a wooden dowel, or other solid
>measuring
>type device, put the piston at TDC and push the dowel on top of it ... mark

>the stick ... then turn the motor 180 degrees and mark the stick again ...

>the
>distance should be close to 3.75" if its closer to 3.5, then its a 360 ...
Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 19:28:40 GMT
Subject: Re: Siezed bolt



>Forgot to mention:
>'76 F150 Ranger XLT w/390


This means you can get at the back of the bolts ... what I actually did on mine
when I thought it would be tough was start the motor for a bit to let them get
some heat in there (I don't have a torch), and also soaked the bolts on both
sides for a few days ...

If you do end up not getting them, I used a 2" C-clamp (actually a couple of
them) on the top flange of the header I was running to hold it like the bolt
would've ... worked great for over a year ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:38:15 -0800
From: Clare Waterman-Storer scripps.edu>
Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts

Kroil- ask your machinist for it. plus heat them up by warming the
engine

JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:

> hit em with a hammer, sometimes the jolt will unfreeze em.
>
> Darrell
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.


-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: text/x-vcard
-- File: waterman.vcf
-- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer



------------------------------

From: Natp244 cs.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:27:46 EST
Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts

somebody already suggested Kroil- it's the best, but sometimes is hard to
find (around here, anyway). The next best thing I know of is called PB
Blaster. I just discovered it 2 weeks ago. so far, I have used it to break
lose a 10 yr old EGR tube on my 90 F-150, and the nuts on the manifold studs
on my 64 which were rusted beyond description. They probably hadn't been
turned in 15 or 20 years. It worked so well that my dad tried to take it
away from me when I used it to free up some parts he had been working on.
Cheap stuff, too- 2 or 3 a can. I'm throwing away all of my wd-40 now.

be sure to use some anti-seize when you put the parts back on. It will make
the job a lot easier next time around.

Nate

------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 18:23:28 EST
Subject: Re: Siezed FE Exhaust Manifold Bolts

Here is my take on this subject:

Exhaust manifolds can be very tricky to
change on the FE. The upper bolts are prone to snapping. This is compounded
by the fact that some of the heads may be worn from the heating/cooling
process causing them to strip when you put a socket on to loosen. I find that
the best results are from a combination of methods. Here is how I would
start: put your favorite penetrating oil on the upper bolts over the course
of several days . Continue to allow it to work into threads. Gentle blows on
the bolt heads with a hammer sometimes will shock the penetrating oil into
the threads. The head and exhaust manifold are cast iron so be gentle. The
other thing to recognize is that each of the manifolds has two smaller
diameter holes for 2 of the exhaust ports. They are Cylinder No. 2 on the
right bank and Cylinder No. 7 on the left bank. You should notice this on
your replacement set. This is important because the bolts will not only be
seized in the head, but they tend to also seize on the exhaust manifold
itself. Be extra careful with these four bolts. The head can simply twist off
on these. Therefore, be extra judicious with the penetrating oil here.
When you are ready to actually remove a manifold make one bolt at a time your
goal. If the engine is operable...let it run until it gets up to temperature
(be sure to use leather welder's gloves so you don't get burnt). I usually
start to tighten and then loosen. Repeat this several times until you begin
to hear the bolt creaking. You must use just enough force to get the bolt to
rock back and forth a tiny bit at a time (fraction of a turn). I like to use
a short 3/8" "breaker bar" and choke-up on it so as not to exert too much
force. I hear that a low torque 3/8" air ratchet can also be effective (never
tried it myself). Whatever you do, do not use brut force as that is a
definite recipe for a snapped bolt. Too much pressure either way will cause
the bolt to simply twist off and you will then have a real problem. Snapped
bolts are next to impossible to get out cleanly while the engine is
installed. A quality six point socket is a must. Heat from an acetylene torch
on the head where the exhaust bolt goes through is sometimes necessary as
well while you are attempting to remove the bolt. Just don't try to heat the
bolt itself. Heat expands metal. If you heat the bolts hotter than the
surrounding metal they will expand more thus defeating the purpose. Heating
the bolts also changes the metals temper and softens them. This will likely
allow them to twist right off at the base of the head leaving the rest in the
head. Thus, if you use heat it should be on the head area where the bolt
threads reside. Obviously, by heating the head area it will result in the
bolts being heated, that's o.k. as long as you concentrate the heat on the
head assembly. If you snap some bolts don't be surprised. It happens to the
best. Perfect results takes a lot of practice and patience. Good luck.

Stock Man
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: "Howard, Randolph E" PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Windsor or Cleveland?
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:24:32 -0800

Howdy,
I am new to the list so please excuse if this is an old topic. A friend wants to sell me a fixer 1974 F-100 short bed with a 351 engine. What type of 351 is this likely to be, Windsor or Cleveland? Which is a better motor? Anything in particular to be aware of when examining this truck? Thanks.

Randy Howard


------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 21:57:29 EST
Subject: Re: Windsor or Cleveland?

Randy

I don't believe a 351 is a stock engine for a '74 so that could leave you
wide open. And their are 3 different 351s to boot also (the Windsor,
Cleveland, and modified). It's easy to ID a Windsor. Look at the front of the
manifold. If the upper radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing on
the manifold, it's a Windsor. If the thermostat housing is on the passenger
front of the block in front of the manifold, it's a Cleveland or modified.
Both of these use basically the same block but have different deck heights.
Im not familiar with the specific differences other than the intake manifold
is wider on the M 'cause of the blocks higher deck.

As for parts availability, the Windsor probably has a bigger following since
it's used in trucks till recently. The M blocks stooped in the early '80s and
Im not sure about the Cleveland.

Im sure others can help out with the diffs between the C and the M. Just
tossing in what little help I can!

George M in Fl.

'79 Bronco - 400 & C6
a bunch of newer stuff - The wife likes em, but they don't compare!


In a message dated 3/30/2000 7:25:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Randolph.Howard PSS.Boeing.com writes:

> Howdy,
> I am new to the list so please excuse if this is an old topic. A friend
> wants to sell me a fixer 1974 F-100 short bed with a 351 engine. What type
> of 351 is this likely to be, Windsor or Cleveland? Which is a better
motor?
> Anything in particular to be aware of when examining this truck? Thanks.
>
> Randy Howard
>

------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:53:49 EST
Subject: Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single?

In a message dated 3/30/00 7:46:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
GMontgo930 aol.com writes:

<< Another option for pipe routing would be to bring the left bank over to
the
right side running both down together then at the rear, you would take the
pipe from eh right bank and bring it over to the left side. This would
balance out the system much better than that overly long left pipe.
>>

By Jove, I think you might have something there.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: SHill48337aol.com
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 23:09:34 EST
Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts

In a message dated 3/30/00 2:01:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jon.bellerericsson.com writes:

<< I have at least the top three bolts on an exhaust man. that simply will
not budge...(already ripped the head off of one). I need to replace the
gasket and I don't think the bolts have been turned in at least 10
years. I've been told about using a torch to heat the bolt and then let
candle wax do the work, but I may leave that for a last resort. 3 in 1
oil and Gunk Liquid Wrench haven't done the trick yet... Has anybody
got any suggestions?
>>
This has been a string on this list several times. It seems patience is the
real trick. Get some real good penetrating fluid, ask a viable machine shop
what they recommend probably won't be Liquid Wrench, there is better stuff
out there. Keep applying fluid and tapping the bolt, it is difficult to get
the fluid into the threads. Some come off and some never do. Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "Gary L. Perry" fwi.com>
Subject: Re: Unusual Bed
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 23:39:55 -0500

The bed someone was speaking of on list, was most likely a
Camper Special. It had a compartment on box side, maybe for
the spare? , probably because campers of the time "hung-over"
the rear of truck and made access diffucult.
"G"


------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #54
**********************************
----------------------------------------------------------
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

Send posts to 61-79-listford-trucks.com

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing
list, send an email to:

listarford-trucks.com

with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of
the message.

Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
----------------------------------------------------------

....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.