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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 30 Mar 2000 23:40:23 -0500 (EST) Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 23:40:23 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #54 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Wed, 29 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 054 In This Issue: Re: TRUCK PICTURES...... Re: TRUCK PICTURES...... Autos Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single? power brake swap Re: TRUCK PICTURES...... Re: 1975 F100 4x4 Free C4 transmission & '78 $100 Sacramento Area Re: Autos headers to duals or 3-inch single - Part 2 Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single? Duals Torque converters Purchase 4X4 '75 Re: 1975 F100 4x4 Re: 1975 F100 4x4 Re: 1975 F100 4x4 Siezed Bolts Re: Siezed Bolts Re: Siezed bolt Re: Siezed Bolts Re: 1975 F100 4x4 Re: 1975 F100 4x4 Re: Siezed bolt Re: Siezed Bolts Re: Siezed Bolts Re: Siezed FE Exhaust Manifold Bolts Windsor or Cleveland? Re: Windsor or Cleveland? Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single? Re: Siezed Bolts Re: Unusual Bed ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 23:16:28 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: TRUCK PICTURES...... At 06:48 PM 3/29/00 -0500, you wrote: >Nice site Matt. The only suggestion I have is that you should add it to the >FTE Hot 100 site list. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.chaoticdelusions.com/truck > >The sites which are listed there have kinda been in a "ratings slump." It >would be nice to see some more traffic. I can change that! Its not fair with the sites that have been around a while because they have a chance to build up more votes. The votes are supposed to be reset every month but I'm lazy (not!). I'll reset them now. Ken ------------------------------ From: TBeeee aol.com Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 23:19:08 EST Subject: Re: TRUCK PICTURES...... I am all for it! Especially since the early counts were subject to multiple votes. Stock Man > The > votes are supposed to be reset every month but I'm lazy (not!). I'll > reset them now. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 20:38:32 -0800 From: scott Subject: Autos >>>>>>>>>>>>I have no clue as to whether or not I'd like one in a larger truck or a tractor, We have Allison autos in most of our large trucks.I personally don't care for them .Always "hunting "for gears and shifting at the wrong time. >>>>>>>>>>>.but they seem to be holding up very well. The ones we have are very very reliable. >>>>>>>>.Not trying to sway anyone either way. It's still a matter of opinion I'm with you Azie,I own 2 manual trucks and a automatic equipped truck. I like all three of them. >>>>>>>>>>I know they are building new trucks with autos, but I haven't heard much good on the reliability with 80- 100K lb weight factors and 1800 lb/ft torque. We don't have that much weight or torque.We run class 8 dumps with plows. >>>>>>>>> The company I work for still specs their trucks with 10 or 13 speeds depending on the application. Our problem is the drivers.Some of these guys can wreck a clutch in one night.The trucks set most of the time with only some of the more experienced drivers using them.But when the snow flies everybody and their brother grabs a plow and goes to work.They get the autos.and the more experienced guys get the 10 spds. ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" Subject: Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single? Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 00:14:00 -0500 Do they make fenderwell headers for that application??? (THEY---Anyone) -----Original Message----- From: John LaGrone To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:20 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single? >> This presents a problem in plumbing the headers. Either I have to run from >> the collector down and under the tank on the driver's side (low-hanging) or >> run across as far forward as practical, then from there, either take it back >> to duals (crossing back over or running right alongside one another) or run >> both headers into a single exhaust, quite probably a 3-inch. >> I would solicit all opinions, comments and suggestions on the possible >> approaches. >> >> Jim Elliott > >Jim, > >This is a common problem for this type of tank, which a lot of us have. The >"off road kits" for dual exhausts run the driver's side pipe under the drive >train then down the right side of the drive shaft between the ds and frame >along with the right side pipe. Then it crosses back over behind the diff. >This makes for a very long left side pipe and an unbalanced situation IMHO. >I have also seen rigs that had the left side pipe run on the outside of the >left frame rail. I don't care for that either. So, I stuck with the stock >setup (351m) and then opted for a high flow dual outlet muffler. From the >outside it looks like duals; for the smog cops it's still legal. > >Sidepipes? Stacks behind the cab? (It's a joke.) > >-- John >jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) >1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) >http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm >Dearborn iron rules!!!! >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ From: "Mike" Subject: power brake swap Date: (No, or invalid, date.) Tim, you can use any booster from 68-72 on your 68. The 67 pedal geometry is a little different (like a lot of other things exclusive to the 67). The boosters from 73 up are bigger physically, but they also bolt up. ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" Subject: Re: TRUCK PICTURES...... Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 00:27:24 -0500 nice truck!! A license plate like that isn't allowed here in Ohio. -----Original Message----- From: Matt Senn To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 3:38 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: TRUCK PICTURES...... >speaking of truck pictures . . . > >i don't always have a whole lot to contribute to the list but i love reading >everything that comes across . . . i am in the process of putting together a >website for my truck . . . it's at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.chaoticdelusions.com/truck . >. . let me know what you all think . . . thanks!! > > > > > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4 Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 00:48:15 -0500 The box will be your biggest expense.They are hard to find without rust unless you live somewhere that they don't use salt on the roads.As for the fenders & cab corners --look in the JC Whitney Catalog.They have all that sheet metal replacement parts at reasonable prices. -----Original Message----- From: Tom Williams To: Ford List <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 11:20 PM Subject: [61-79-list] 1975 F100 4x4 >HI All, > I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one >tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck has >a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air. >The tranny, transfer case, tie rod ends and a few other drivetrain items >have been rebuilt in the last 35,000 miles and work very good. The motor is >on its last leg and would need a rebuild, but he has another 390 to go with >the truck that has a very good bottom end but needs new valves in the heads >replaced. The truck has solid floors but very rusty fenders and box and cab >corners. I have never restored a PU and do not know the price for >aftermarket fenders, or a rust free box? >I am looking for some prices for fenders? decent box? ect.... The truck also >has a newer battery, but will soon need tires. >I am going back to look at the truck tomorrow but would like some feedback >from the list on a truck like this. >The price is $600.00 for truck and extra motor. > >Thanks for any feedback. > > >Tom > > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ From: "Carver" Subject: Free C4 transmission & '78 $100 Sacramento Area Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 21:35:01 -0800 Another potential gem appeared in the Grass valley paper FREE section: Ford C-4 transmission 530-272-5686 While I'm at it, here's some more from the regular section: '72 Ford F650 Steel Flatbed with sideboards, $1250 530-273-5081 5th wheel tailgate fits full size Ford PU, $100 530-432-3184 '78 Ford F250 XLT Ex Cab w/dump bed, tow pkg, extras $3500 OBO 530-272-7643 It's in the 4wd section with a '85 F250 tow pkg truck, same person same price, but no specific mention that either is 4wd '69 Ford Camper Special w/ extra motor and '77 Ford F150 4x4 blown engine make offer 530-265-9186 '69 F250 in bed king of the road camper Runs great 134K $1600 obo 530-272-1296 Saved another deal for the last - '78 Ford PU, non-opp, Toolbox & lumber rack $100 530-432-0234 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 22:25:23 -0800 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: Autos I can understand having a auto in a plow operation in a tight back and fill application (city streets, parking lots). On the highway, I wouldn't see a disadvantage either way. The trucks that I work on vary from a 3 axle tractor/ semi trailer, 3 axle tractor/ 30-30 doubles and up to a 4 axle tractor/ 4 axle trailer with gross legal weights of up to 105,500 lbs. About the maximum for a non pilot car OTR truck. Jason scott wrote: > >>>>>>>>>>>>I have no clue as to whether or not I'd like one in a > larger truck or a tractor, > > We have Allison autos in most of our large trucks.I personally don't > care for them .Always "hunting "for gears and shifting at the wrong > time. > > >>>>>>>>>>>.but they seem to be holding up very well. > > The ones we have are very very reliable. > > >>>>>>>>.Not trying to sway anyone either way. It's still a matter of opinion > > I'm with you Azie,I own 2 manual trucks and a automatic equipped truck. > I like all three of them. > > >>>>>>>>>>I know they are building new trucks with autos, but I haven't heard much good on the reliability with 80- 100K lb weight factors and 1800 lb/ft torque. > > We don't have that much weight or torque.We run class 8 dumps with > plows. > > >>>>>>>>> The company I work for still specs their trucks with 10 or 13 speeds depending on the application. > > Our problem is the drivers.Some of these guys can wreck a clutch in one > night.The trucks set most of the time with only some of the more > experienced drivers using them.But when the snow flies everybody and > their brother grabs a plow and goes to work.They get the autos.and the > more > experienced guys get the 10 spds. > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: "InkDezJim" Subject: headers to duals or 3-inch single - Part 2 Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 06:34:52 -0600 Thanks for the feedback (more is still cool). To clarify a couple of points, my truck is a 390 with a C-6. The headers, unfortunately, are long-tube headers, I think Hedman. When I picked them up I had not gotten fixated on the tank relocation. After reading some of the responses, It would make good sense to cross over in front of the converter, just under the oilpan (since I have the 2wd front sump), but the length of the headers will make that impossible. On the other, I hate to cross over under the transmission, because of throwing that heat near the automatic. Hmmm. Anyone need a set of long headers, used but blasted and coated with a true high-temp paint from POR? Grin Jim Elliott 69 F-100 Explorer ------------------------------ From: GMontgo930 aol.com Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:45:14 EST Subject: Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single? Another option for pipe routing would be to bring the left bank over to the right side running both down together then at the rear, you would take the pipe from eh right bank and bring it over to the left side. This would balance out the system much better than that overly long left pipe. In a message dated 3/29/2000 9:15:46 AM Eastern Standard Time, jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes: > > > This presents a problem in plumbing the headers. Either I have to run > from > > the collector down and under the tank on the driver's side (low-hanging) > or > > run across as far forward as practical, then from there, either take it > back > > to duals (crossing back over or running right alongside one another) or > run > > both headers into a single exhaust, quite probably a 3-inch. > > I would solicit all opinions, comments and suggestions on the possible > > approaches. > > > > Jim Elliott > > Jim, > > This is a common problem for this type of tank, which a lot of us have. The > "off road kits" for dual exhausts run the driver's side pipe under the drive > train then down the right side of the drive shaft between the ds and frame > along with the right side pipe. Then it crosses back over behind the diff. > This makes for a very long left side pipe and an unbalanced situation IMHO. > I have also seen rigs that had the left side pipe run on the outside of the > left frame rail. I don't care for that either. So, I stuck with the stock > setup (351m) and then opted for a high flow dual outlet muffler. From the > outside it looks like duals; for the smog cops it's still legal. > > Sidepipes? Stacks behind the cab? (It's a joke.) > ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Duals Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:06:14 -0500 Jim E. writes: >> This presents a problem in plumbing the headers. Either I have to run from the collector down and under the tank on the driver's side (low-hanging) or run across as far forward as practical, then from there, either take it back to duals (crossing back over or running right alongside one another) or run both headers into a single exhaust, quite probably a 3-inch. I would solicit all opinions, comments and suggestions on the possible approaches.<< For the sake of looks alone, I would route them down the passenger side, side by side, and crossover with one of them and run true duals out the rearend. I just like the looks at the rear. There is really no advantage. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Torque converters Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:19:40 -0500 Dr Wayne S. writes: >>I'm thinking about buying a '78 or '79 Econoline 250 or 350 with C6 transmission, for towing a 9000 lb. load. I have heard a lot about the possibility of equipping a tow vehicle with a torque converter designed for towing big loads. Anyone have any experience? Would the expense be justified? Thanks for any information.<< Skip the expense Doc. Go buy you a good aux coller and plumb it in. Your C6 will perform OK and last just as long. Keep it cool - that is the important part. All JMHO.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Purchase 4X4 '75 Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:27:04 -0500 Tom W. writes: >>I am going back to look at the truck tomorrow but would like some feedback from the list on a truck like this. The price is $600.00 for truck and extra motor.<< Buy it... The drive line will bring that and is worth every penny provided it is in good shape like you say. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:19:01 GMT Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4 > I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one >tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck has >a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air. If you really have your heart set on a 390 instead of a 360, I'd check that motor out a little bit first ...ask him if its been changed out ever, if not, check the VIN, likely there's a Y in the VIN which would indicate a 360 not a 390 ... I've never seen a true FACTORY 4x4 with a 390, but since the externals are the same, its easy enough to call a 360 a 390 and no one would know ... There's a trick to check the stroke, use a wooden dowel, or other solid measuring type device, put the piston at TDC and push the dowel on top of it ... mark the stick ... then turn the motor 180 degrees and mark the stick again ... the distance should be close to 3.75" if its closer to 3.5, then its a 360 ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: Matt Senn Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4 Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:34:34 -0800 also, isn't the crankshaft "shaved" a little bit to allow clearance for the piston skirts due to the larger stroke on the 390s?? -----Original Message----- From: wish [mailto:wish ford-trucks.net] Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 7:19 AM To: Ford List Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 1975 F100 4x4 > I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one >tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck has >a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air. If you really have your heart set on a 390 instead of a 360, I'd check that motor out a little bit first ...ask him if its been changed out ever, if not, check the VIN, likely there's a Y in the VIN which would indicate a 360 not a 390 ... I've never seen a true FACTORY 4x4 with a 390, but since the externals are the same, its easy enough to call a 360 a 390 and no one would know ... There's a trick to check the stroke, use a wooden dowel, or other solid measuring type device, put the piston at TDC and push the dowel on top of it ... mark the stick ... then turn the motor 180 degrees and mark the stick again ... the distance should be close to 3.75" if its closer to 3.5, then its a 360 ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:27:09 -0500 Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4 The crankshaft isn't, but the pistons are. The pistons have arches cut into the skirt to clear the crank throw. -Ted Matt Senn Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS) Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 1975 F100 4x4 also, isn't the crankshaft "shaved" a little bit to allow clearance for the piston skirts due to the larger stroke on the 390s?? -----Original Message----- From: wish [mailto:wish ford-trucks.net] Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 7:19 AM To: Ford List Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 1975 F100 4x4 > I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one >tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck has >a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air. If you really have your heart set on a 390 instead of a 360, I'd check that motor out a little bit first ...ask him if its been changed out ever, if not, check the VIN, likely there's a Y in the VIN which would indicate a 360 not a 390 ... I've never seen a true FACTORY 4x4 with a 390, but since the externals are the same, its easy enough to call a 360 a 390 and no one would know ... There's a trick to check the stroke, use a wooden dowel, or other solid measuring type device, put the piston at TDC and push the dowel on top of it ... mark the stick ... then turn the motor 180 degrees and mark the stick again ... the distance should be close to 3.75" if its closer to 3.5, then its a 360 ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 12:58:49 -0600 From: Jon Beller Subject: Siezed Bolts I have at least the top three bolts on an exhaust man. that simply will not budge...(already ripped the head off of one). I need to replace the gasket and I don't think the bolts have been turned in at least 10 years. I've been told about using a torch to heat the bolt and then let candle wax do the work, but I may leave that for a last resort. 3 in 1 oil and Gunk Liquid Wrench haven't done the trick yet... Has anybody got any suggestions? ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 14:02:12 EST Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts hit em with a hammer, sometimes the jolt will unfreeze em. Darrell ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 13:02:29 -0600 From: Jon Beller Subject: Re: Siezed bolt Forgot to mention: '76 F150 Ranger XLT w/390 ------------------------------ From: Matt Senn Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:01:32 -0800 wd-40 -----Original Message----- From: Jon Beller [mailto:jon.beller ericsson.com] Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2000 11:59 AM To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Subject: [61-79-list] Siezed Bolts I have at least the top three bolts on an exhaust man. that simply will not budge...(already ripped the head off of one). I need to replace the gasket and I don't think the bolts have been turned in at least 10 years. I've been told about using a torch to heat the bolt and then let candle wax do the work, but I may leave that for a last resort. 3 in 1 oil and Gunk Liquid Wrench haven't done the trick yet... Has anybody got any suggestions? ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4 Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:16:36 -0800 Tom The price sounds good especially with the extra motor. One other thing I would watch out for on this model truck is the power steering. A 75 has a ram assist power steering system and parts are getting hard to come by now. There are some places that will rebuild the ram system but it is expensive. Later models 78-79 used an integral power steering box. Some people on the list may have retrofitted this system. Body parts are still available. A box though would be better bought whole from the south-west. Stay away from import sheet metal. It's worth the exra $ for factory parts here. Tom H. > > HI All, > I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I > looked at one > tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to > sell. The truck has > a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air. > The tranny, transfer case, tie rod ends and a few other > drivetrain items > have been rebuilt in the last 35,000 miles and work very > good. The motor is > on its last leg and would need a rebuild, but he has another > 390 to go with > the truck that has a very good bottom end but needs new > valves in the heads > replaced. The truck has solid floors but very rusty fenders > and box and cab > corners. I have never restored a PU and do not know the price for > aftermarket fenders, or a rust free box? > I am looking for some prices for fenders? decent box? ect.... > The truck also > has a newer battery, but will soon need tires. > I am going back to look at the truck tomorrow but would like > some feedback > from the list on a truck like this. > The price is $600.00 for truck and extra motor. > > Thanks for any feedback. > > > Tom > > ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 19:26:56 GMT Subject: Re: 1975 F100 4x4 >The crankshaft isn't, but the pistons are. The pistons have arches cut into the >skirt to clear the crank throw. > >also, isn't the crankshaft "shaved" a little bit to allow clearance for the >piston skirts due to the larger stroke on the 390s?? > Sorry folks, I was trying to come up with something for him to check before he bought the truck if it was a concern. Its hard to see the pistons and crank without pulling the motor apart ... Also there was lots of swapping pistons to change the compression ratio, my 76 390 had 410 pistons in it, presumably to keep the compression ratio down around 8:1 ... > >> I am looking for some feedback on a 1975 F100 4x4. I looked at one >>tonight that a local farmer bought new and is looking to sell. The truck >has > >>a 390, automatic, power steering, brakes, no air. > > >If you really have your heart set on a 390 instead of a 360, I'd check that >motor out a little bit first ...ask him if its been changed out ever, if >not, >check the VIN, likely there's a Y in the VIN which would indicate a 360 not >a 390 ... I've never seen a true FACTORY 4x4 with a 390, but since the >externals >are the same, its easy enough to call a 360 a 390 and no one would know ... > There's a trick to check the stroke, use a wooden dowel, or other solid >measuring >type device, put the piston at TDC and push the dowel on top of it ... mark >the stick ... then turn the motor 180 degrees and mark the stick again ... >the >distance should be close to 3.75" if its closer to 3.5, then its a 360 ... Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 19:28:40 GMT Subject: Re: Siezed bolt >Forgot to mention: >'76 F150 Ranger XLT w/390 This means you can get at the back of the bolts ... what I actually did on mine when I thought it would be tough was start the motor for a bit to let them get some heat in there (I don't have a torch), and also soaked the bolts on both sides for a few days ... If you do end up not getting them, I used a 2" C-clamp (actually a couple of them) on the top flange of the header I was running to hold it like the bolt would've ... worked great for over a year ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 11:38:15 -0800 From: Clare Waterman-Storer Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts Kroil- ask your machinist for it. plus heat them up by warming the engine JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote: > hit em with a hammer, sometimes the jolt will unfreeze em. > > Darrell > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: text/x-vcard -- File: waterman.vcf -- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer ------------------------------ From: Natp244 cs.com Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:27:46 EST Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts somebody already suggested Kroil- it's the best, but sometimes is hard to find (around here, anyway). The next best thing I know of is called PB Blaster. I just discovered it 2 weeks ago. so far, I have used it to break lose a 10 yr old EGR tube on my 90 F-150, and the nuts on the manifold studs on my 64 which were rusted beyond description. They probably hadn't been turned in 15 or 20 years. It worked so well that my dad tried to take it away from me when I used it to free up some parts he had been working on. Cheap stuff, too- 2 or 3 a can. I'm throwing away all of my wd-40 now. be sure to use some anti-seize when you put the parts back on. It will make the job a lot easier next time around. Nate ------------------------------ From: TBeeee aol.com Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 18:23:28 EST Subject: Re: Siezed FE Exhaust Manifold Bolts Here is my take on this subject: Exhaust manifolds can be very tricky to change on the FE. The upper bolts are prone to snapping. This is compounded by the fact that some of the heads may be worn from the heating/cooling process causing them to strip when you put a socket on to loosen. I find that the best results are from a combination of methods. Here is how I would start: put your favorite penetrating oil on the upper bolts over the course of several days . Continue to allow it to work into threads. Gentle blows on the bolt heads with a hammer sometimes will shock the penetrating oil into the threads. The head and exhaust manifold are cast iron so be gentle. The other thing to recognize is that each of the manifolds has two smaller diameter holes for 2 of the exhaust ports. They are Cylinder No. 2 on the right bank and Cylinder No. 7 on the left bank. You should notice this on your replacement set. This is important because the bolts will not only be seized in the head, but they tend to also seize on the exhaust manifold itself. Be extra careful with these four bolts. The head can simply twist off on these. Therefore, be extra judicious with the penetrating oil here. When you are ready to actually remove a manifold make one bolt at a time your goal. If the engine is operable...let it run until it gets up to temperature (be sure to use leather welder's gloves so you don't get burnt). I usually start to tighten and then loosen. Repeat this several times until you begin to hear the bolt creaking. You must use just enough force to get the bolt to rock back and forth a tiny bit at a time (fraction of a turn). I like to use a short 3/8" "breaker bar" and choke-up on it so as not to exert too much force. I hear that a low torque 3/8" air ratchet can also be effective (never tried it myself). Whatever you do, do not use brut force as that is a definite recipe for a snapped bolt. Too much pressure either way will cause the bolt to simply twist off and you will then have a real problem. Snapped bolts are next to impossible to get out cleanly while the engine is installed. A quality six point socket is a must. Heat from an acetylene torch on the head where the exhaust bolt goes through is sometimes necessary as well while you are attempting to remove the bolt. Just don't try to heat the bolt itself. Heat expands metal. If you heat the bolts hotter than the surrounding metal they will expand more thus defeating the purpose. Heating the bolts also changes the metals temper and softens them. This will likely allow them to twist right off at the base of the head leaving the rest in the head. Thus, if you use heat it should be on the head area where the bolt threads reside. Obviously, by heating the head area it will result in the bolts being heated, that's o.k. as long as you concentrate the heat on the head assembly. If you snap some bolts don't be surprised. It happens to the best. Perfect results takes a lot of practice and patience. Good luck. Stock Man 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee ------------------------------ From: "Howard, Randolph E" Subject: Windsor or Cleveland? Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:24:32 -0800 Howdy, I am new to the list so please excuse if this is an old topic. A friend wants to sell me a fixer 1974 F-100 short bed with a 351 engine. What type of 351 is this likely to be, Windsor or Cleveland? Which is a better motor? Anything in particular to be aware of when examining this truck? Thanks. Randy Howard ------------------------------ From: GMontgo930 aol.com Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 21:57:29 EST Subject: Re: Windsor or Cleveland? Randy I don't believe a 351 is a stock engine for a '74 so that could leave you wide open. And their are 3 different 351s to boot also (the Windsor, Cleveland, and modified). It's easy to ID a Windsor. Look at the front of the manifold. If the upper radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing on the manifold, it's a Windsor. If the thermostat housing is on the passenger front of the block in front of the manifold, it's a Cleveland or modified. Both of these use basically the same block but have different deck heights. Im not familiar with the specific differences other than the intake manifold is wider on the M 'cause of the blocks higher deck. As for parts availability, the Windsor probably has a bigger following since it's used in trucks till recently. The M blocks stooped in the early '80s and Im not sure about the Cleveland. Im sure others can help out with the diffs between the C and the M. Just tossing in what little help I can! George M in Fl. '79 Bronco - 400 & C6 a bunch of newer stuff - The wife likes em, but they don't compare! In a message dated 3/30/2000 7:25:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, Randolph.Howard PSS.Boeing.com writes: > Howdy, > I am new to the list so please excuse if this is an old topic. A friend > wants to sell me a fixer 1974 F-100 short bed with a 351 engine. What type > of 351 is this likely to be, Windsor or Cleveland? Which is a better motor? > Anything in particular to be aware of when examining this truck? Thanks. > > Randy Howard > ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 22:53:49 EST Subject: Re: Headers to Duals, or 3-inch single? In a message dated 3/30/00 7:46:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, GMontgo930 aol.com writes: << Another option for pipe routing would be to bring the left bank over to the right side running both down together then at the rear, you would take the pipe from eh right bank and bring it over to the left side. This would balance out the system much better than that overly long left pipe. >> By Jove, I think you might have something there. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.comDate: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 23:09:34 EST Subject: Re: Siezed Bolts In a message dated 3/30/00 2:01:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, jon.beller ericsson.com writes:<< I have at least the top three bolts on an exhaust man. that simply will not budge...(already ripped the head off of one). I need to replace the gasket and I don't think the bolts have been turned in at least 10 years. I've been told about using a torch to heat the bolt and then let candle wax do the work, but I may leave that for a last resort. 3 in 1 oil and Gunk Liquid Wrench haven't done the trick yet... Has anybody got any suggestions? >> This has been a string on this list several times. It seems patience is the real trick. Get some real good penetrating fluid, ask a viable machine shop what they recommend probably won't be Liquid Wrench, there is better stuff out there. Keep applying fluid and tapping the bolt, it is difficult to get the fluid into the threads. Some come off and some never do. Good Luck Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: "Gary L. Perry" Subject: Re: Unusual Bed Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 23:39:55 -0500 The bed someone was speaking of on list, was most likely a Camper Special. It had a compartment on box side, maybe for the spare? , probably because campers of the time "hung-over" the rear of truck and made access diffucult. "G" ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #54 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 61-79-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. 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