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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 28 Mar 2000 22:51:45 -0500 (EST) Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 22:51:45 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #52 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Tue, 28 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 052 In This Issue: Re: Auto Reliability Tough to fill-up : Re: man vs auto II Re: man vs auto FW: Found- Anodizing remover Re: man vs auto ADMIN: Nascar Craftsman Truck Series forum added Re: Tough to fill-up Re: 78 brake question Re: Tough to fill-up Re: man vs auto II Re: Tough to fill-up Re: FW: Found- Anodizing remover Re: man vs auto II Re: Tough to fill-up Re: man vs auto Automatics Re: FW: Found- Anodizing remover Re: FW: Found- Anodizing remover mileage of 99 & 00 f250 Re: mileage of 99 & 00 f250 Re: : Re: man vs auto II low oil pressure Re: man vs auto Re: man vs auto Re: low oil pressure Re: low oil pressure Re: FW: Found- Anodizing remover Re: 67 Grill, 68 to 70 DOVE series heads. 83 mustang Re: Tough to fill-up Re: man vs auto Parts 72 sport custom Re: 72 sport custom Re: Parts "unsubscribe 61-79-list" found: 78 bronco steering box ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 22:09:59 -0700 From: "Kiernan, Denny" Subject: Re: Auto Reliability Now I'm not sure about the 5000 lbs gross weight. Whatever. Denny ------------------------------ From: "Steve Schaeffer" Subject: Tough to fill-up Date: Mon, 27 Mar 2000 23:02:34 -0800 Hi All, I'm sure this is an old thread, but on my '75 F-250 Supercab with twin (18gal?) tanks, it is absolute hell filling up the tanks. I have to trickle the gas in. The filler necks of both tanks are practically horizontal, so it's no surprise that the gas backflushs out the nozzle opening. Has this wonderful list come up with a sure-fire way to beat the gas tank fill-up blues? I hate taking 10 minutes to trickle-feed my thirsty 460. Where do I look for a cure? Many thanks, Steve S Seattle, WA 'hello fellow PacNW FTE'ers!' $1.73/regular at Texaco ------------------------------ From: "Pat" Subject: : Re: man vs auto II Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 00:26:03 -0800 I wasn't going to get involved in this last forever thread, that was until the Foreign sporty car stuff. I've asked all the grey haired loggers that I could talk to in this part of the BC coast about their preference and y'know, not one of them wanted a 4-spd. in a 4X4 and it certainly wasn't from lack of experience in driving 4 speeds. All of them told me matter of factly that you could go places with an auto that you couldn't even go with a 4 speed. Give me the auto anyday, I just love those glass smooth shifts in the ugliest of places. And no! My trucks arn't Grand Tourismo models. Tee-Hee Pat Patsplace 77 F250 4X4 78 F150 W/Overloads 72 Ranger parts truck 79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction) 78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT. . show me a1968 Ferrari GTO that came with an auto and i might change my mind, but not likely. ===== Daniel DiMartino 1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4 ------------------------------ From: ballingr Subject: Re: man vs auto Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 04:35:48 -0600 pulls his travel trailer with. I can see having a manual behind a Diesel. Manuals work real well until you need to use the floor dimmer while the clutch is depressed or you need to hold the brake and the gas and the clutch because you got a bad tank of gas and the engine keeps dying. Then there are the yoyos who kill it at every stop light or roll back into your grille. Manuals have to outperform autos when you need a lot of gears close together. Can you imagine a KW with an 18 speed auto? >>>>>> Actually, Volvo has an 8 speed auto that's starting to catch on, and Meritor has developed a semi-auto shift mechanism like a tiptronic shifter in a BMW. It's coming to a truck stop near you. Both manual and auto trans have their virtues. An auto is obviously going to be better in traffic, no doubt it gives you one less thing to fool with while watching for middle aged women in mini-vans looking to take you to the promised land (boy I'm gonna get it for that one :-o ) Towing is easier with an auto, especially in the hills, but alot of experience with manuals pretty much evens that one out. As far as costs go, it depends on the trans and how you use it. A clutch job on a 4X4 can sometimes cost as much as a auto trans R&R. A C-6 when properly maintained will outlast 3 clutches in a manual work truck. An E4OD is not quite so good, and an AOD is awful if you do much more than drive it to work. A ZF if ran in OD with a heavy load will self destruct, they should be run in direct when pulling. It's really personal preference, I like both fairly evenly. But as Ken said, if I had to fight Atlanta traffic I'd want an auto. ------------------------------ From: "Desanto, Phillip" Subject: FW: Found- Anodizing remover Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 06:58:48 -0500 Thought I'd forward this to the FTE list also, since someone on here may also wish to redo their anodized aluminum trim. This stuff is the only way to go if you want to take off the old milky lookin anodizing and polish the metal underneath. Then you can leave it unfinished and keep it polished, OR put a good 2-part clear over it like POR-15's "Glisten" or something similar. Phil ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: OldFords63 Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 10:18 PM To: GALAXIE Cc: Galaxieclub Subject: Found- Anodizing remover Hi all- there has been several discussions here over the last couple of years about a readily available Anodizing remover. I had bought some a few years ago, but could no longer find it. Well this past weekend I finally ran across a vender that sells it. It's the same stuff I bought before that worked so well. It's from a place called : RGS Abrasives Inc. 1246 W. Webb DeWitt, MI. 48820 517-669-8848 or 888-725-4538 A jar about the size of a beer can is $10, ( 12-14oz.) and that's enough to do a whole car if you don't spill or waste it. (It takes just a small amount to make a gallon of solution, and you can save it and use it over and over ) It's very easy to use. They also sell a full line of other buffing supplies. Happy polishing, Phil (Ford Galaxie Club of America # 694) _ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 07:55:46 -0600 Subject: Re: man vs auto From: "John LaGrone" > but I'm not > telling you what you should drive, you wouldn't listen anyway.... I hear and obey, master.....right. Steve, you know me too well. I think part of the auto vs. manual debate relates back to our own experiences. I have owned several non FoMoCo autos that were pure junk. I can easily see how anyone who had owned one of these models would be totally disenchanted with the product. I drove a school bus at one point in my career. My favorite had a 5 speed Borg-Warner automatic, PS, and air brakes. That was nice. Much better than the 5 speed manual with no shift pattern I was once issued. "OK, now where's 3rd..oops, that was reverse...oops, that was 5th..." Loads of fun for the 4th graders. Ahh, air brakes. I wonder why they never put them on consumer cars.... -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 09:00:49 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: Nascar Craftsman Truck Series forum added A "Nascar Craftsman Truck Series" forum has been added to the web site message boards. In addition being a place for you to discuss the races, I'll also be posting Ford truck series press releases there. Ken Payne Admin ------------------------------ From: "Sean O'Malley" Subject: Re: Tough to fill-up Date: Tue, 28 Mar 100 09:03:28 -0500 (EST) > (18gal?) tanks, it is absolute hell filling up the tanks. I have to trickle > the gas in. The filler necks of both tanks are practically horizontal, so > it's no surprise that the gas backflushs out the nozzle opening. Never dealt with horizontal fillers, but the two times I had a vehicle get balky about filling up, it was a plugged or kinked vent line. --sean ------------------------------ From: "Sean O'Malley" Subject: Re: 78 brake question Date: Tue, 28 Mar 100 09:07:53 -0500 (EST) > [check the rear drums] > [possible leaking front or rear cyl] Thanks guys. I'll check this stuff out. --sean ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: Re: Tough to fill-up Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 06:10:42 -0800 > > Hi All, > I'm sure this is an old thread, but on my '75 F-250 Supercab with twin > (18gal?) tanks, it is absolute hell filling up the tanks. I > have to trickle > the gas in. The filler necks of both tanks are practically > horizontal, so > it's no surprise that the gas backflushs out the nozzle opening. > > Has this wonderful list come up with a sure-fire way to beat > the gas tank > fill-up blues? I hate taking 10 minutes to trickle-feed my > thirsty 460. > Where do I look for a cure? > > Many thanks, > > Steve S Steve, You said "sure-fire" not cheap. ;0) Step 1. Find a 77-79 pickup with dual tanks. Step 2. Remove the beds from both trucks and swap It is better if the doner truck is in the recycling yard or the owner has approved this procedure. I did this to my 76 and haven't had a problem filling it up since. Tom H. ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: Re: man vs auto II Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 06:10:41 -0800 > > >not to mention no true sports car has an automatic. show me a > >1968 Ferrari GTO that came with an auto and i might change my > >mind, but not likely. > > > >===== > >Daniel DiMartino > > > >1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4 > > > > How about a '70 Hemi Cuda? Could get it either way. > > stoney First I would like to say I am impartial to either transmission. I've had both and I like both. Actually learned to drive in a 76 crew-cab longbed with a granny low 4 speed and I now own a 76 supercab with a C-6. Never had any problems with either trans. I think that much of the reason that automatics were not considered performance trannys was the non-positive action of the dismally designed column shifter. If a performance shifter is used that allows positive gear selection without the posibility of grabbing reverse or park it might have been better accepted by the performance community. And with a Ford auto trans you can actually select the gear you want (except for drive but who would want to start in 3rd gear). I know that automatics can be heavier and have more parasitic losses than an automatic but in certain applications it does have advantages. Tom H ------------------------------ From: "Moore, Jimmy" Subject: Re: Tough to fill-up Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 08:19:55 -0600 I realize this is the wrong thread for my '81 F-150, but I must say that I have the same problem. The only way I can get it in fast is if I go to an old gas station with old pumps. New gas stations cannot handle it. The back tank does a little better than the front one, but I'm not sure why. Jim Moore 1964 Ford F-100 292 1981 Ford F-150 300 Six Oklahoma City, OK -----Original Message----- From: Hogan, Tom [mailto:Tom.Hogan Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 8:11 AM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Tough to fill-up > > Hi All, > I'm sure this is an old thread, but on my '75 F-250 Supercab with twin > (18gal?) tanks, it is absolute hell filling up the tanks. I > have to trickle > the gas in. The filler necks of both tanks are practically > horizontal, so > it's no surprise that the gas backflushs out the nozzle opening. > > Has this wonderful list come up with a sure-fire way to beat > the gas tank > fill-up blues? I hate taking 10 minutes to trickle-feed my > thirsty 460. > Where do I look for a cure? > > Many thanks, > > Steve S Steve, You said "sure-fire" not cheap. ;0) Step 1. Find a 77-79 pickup with dual tanks. Step 2. Remove the beds from both trucks and swap It is better if the doner truck is in the recycling yard or the owner has approved this procedure. I did this to my 76 and haven't had a problem filling it up since. Tom H. ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ From: tfreeman Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 09:59:41 -0500 Subject: Re: FW: Found- Anodizing remover I always used Easy Off No Bake Oven cleaner. It will etch the metal if left on to long, but will polish out with to a mirror finish with a buffing wheel. It's just a different twist and I'm only mentioning it as an option to possibly try. I was actually told about this trick by the guy selling Wenol at Pigeon Forge a couple of years ago. -Ted "Desanto, Phillip" Please respond to 61-79-list To: "'Ford Truck -POSTINGS'" <61-79-list cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS) Subject: [61-79-list] FW: Found- Anodizing remover Thought I'd forward this to the FTE list also, since someone on here may also wish to redo their anodized aluminum trim. This stuff is the only way to go if you want to take off the old milky lookin anodizing and polish the metal underneath. Then you can leave it unfinished and keep it polished, OR put a good 2-part clear over it like POR-15's "Glisten" or something similar. Phil ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: OldFords63 Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 10:18 PM To: GALAXIE Cc: Galaxieclub Subject: Found- Anodizing remover Hi all- there has been several discussions here over the last couple of years about a readily available Anodizing remover. I had bought some a few years ago, but could no longer find it. Well this past weekend I finally ran across a vender that sells it. It's the same stuff I bought before that worked so well. It's from a place called : RGS Abrasives Inc. 1246 W. Webb DeWitt, MI. 48820 517-669-8848 or 888-725-4538 A jar about the size of a beer can is $10, ( 12-14oz.) and that's enough to do a whole car if you don't spill or waste it. (It takes just a small amount to make a gallon of solution, and you can save it and use it over and over ) It's very easy to use. They also sell a full line of other buffing supplies. Happy polishing, Phil (Ford Galaxie Club of America # 694) _ ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 15:18:38 GMT Subject: Re: man vs auto II >> >not to mention no true sports car has an automatic. show me a >> >1968 Ferrari GTO that came with an auto and i might change my >> >mind, but not likely. >> > >> How about a '70 Hemi Cuda? Could get it either way. >> Technically speaking a 70 Hemi Cuda, or any "pony car" for that matter isn't a sports car, as they have back seats ... But since the new Porsche 911 Turbo S with its whopping 400 and some horsepower and what not now comes with a "Tiptronic" which is a form of auto, I don't see how you can say real sports cars don't come with auto's, unless you don't consider a Porsche a real sports car, and I don't think that debate belongs anywhere here ... I will say I'm used to autocrossing a manual tranny, and getting used to running that auto in the Lightning last weekend was odd, when I let off the gas I just kept going so I had to actually use the brakes a bit more ... just took some getting used to ... >I think that much of the reason that automatics were not considered >performance trannys was the non-positive action of the dismally designed >column shifter. If a performance shifter is used that allows positive gear >selection without the posibility of grabbing reverse or park it might have >been better accepted by the performance community. Hence the His/Her shifter of the GTO era ... no R or P on the "race" side of that ... also the Torqueflite was quite popular when it came out for drag racing the hemi's ... something about living behind that much hp and torque, though now we've come full circle and the autos are having trouble again ... though with drag racing becoming a thing of consistency more than "heads up" the auto could be making more of a come back ... but I'm sure someone will argue that drag racing isn't real racing (please let this one go, I don't want to discuss it on this list too!) > And with a Ford auto >trans you can actually select the gear you want (except for drive but who >would want to start in 3rd gear). I know that automatics can be heavier and >have more parasitic losses than a manual but in certain applications it >does have advantages. > There's something to be said for that infinite clutch in the front that's for sure ... I've got one of each and they both have their advantages. I've learned to race with the manual though and prefer it for racing, but if I'd learned with an auto I could probably be just as comfortable. And frankly I won't pass up a race just 'cause I've got an auto, I'll race anything with wheels pretty much, as long as they can get me a time :) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:47:25 -0600 Subject: Re: Tough to fill-up From: "John LaGrone" > It is better if the doner truck is in the recycling yard or the owner has > approved this procedure. I suppose they might let you acquire a bed by weight...wait until it's dark, then.... Seriously, another option might be to reroute the filler necks to your fender wells or inside the bed so that you could add some height to the cap location. Just a thought. Maybe some kind of neck extender? You could call it the Ostrich and sell them to other Ford truck owners. Steve, this sounds like something you could fabricate. How about an old flexible snout like you would put on a GI gas can? I don't think it would seal right and you would still spill. How about a floor jack so you could raise the whole side of the truck when you fill up. Naw... -- John jlagrone 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "MC" Subject: Re: man vs auto Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 09:06:29 -0800 Jason Derra wrote: >BTW, I couldn't imagine a KW or a Pete with an automatic, period. I don't know about Kenworth or Peterbilt, but I work at Freightliner, and we do build trucks with automatics. Just thought I'd throw that out there. Matt Cozad ------------------------------ From: am14 Subject: Automatics Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 12:56:54 -0500 Steve writes: >>Actually, yes. The plumbing company I used to work for had an over the road truck with an Allison 4 speed automatic with a 2 speed splitter and 2 speed rear end, Thats 16 forward gears and 2 reverse gears. granted it was only a Cat 3208, but it needed all those gears to get around the Great Northwest, hauling 3,000 gallons of... septic waste... is the nice way to put it.... << Ever notice that all the flight line fuel haulers and heavy equipment types for working on planes seem to be automatics. Allison makes a six speed auto that is used in all the school busses around here since they've gone to diesels. Now I wouldn't consider a school bus really heavy duty, but it ain't no toy. They seem to have gotten the heavy duty automatics to be very reliable. I have no clue as to whether or not I'd like one in a larger truck or a tractor, but they seem to be holding up very well. Not trying to sway anyone either way. It's still a matter of opinion. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: Re: FW: Found- Anodizing remover Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:32:51 -0800 I'm planning on starting a resto on my truck. It is a 76 and has the wide belt line moulding. I thougt it was stainless. Is this stuff aluminum? Do I need to strip the coating to polish it back up. It dose have a milky haze to it. Tom H > I always used Easy Off No Bake Oven cleaner. It will etch > the metal if left on > to long, but will polish out with to a mirror finish with a > buffing wheel. > > It's just a different twist and I'm only mentioning it as an > option to possibly > try. I was actually told about this trick by the guy selling > Wenol at Pigeon > Forge a couple of years ago. > > -Ted > > > > > Thought I'd forward this to the FTE list also, since someone > on here may > also wish to redo their anodized aluminum trim. This stuff is > the only way > to go if you want to take off the old milky lookin anodizing > and polish the > metal underneath. Then you can leave it unfinished and keep > it polished, OR > put a good 2-part clear over it like POR-15's "Glisten" or something > similar. Phil > -------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ From: tfreeman Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 14:01:38 -0500 Subject: Re: FW: Found- Anodizing remover I don't know about a '76, but I believe they would be the same material as my '68. Mine are anodized aluminum. -Ted P.S.- I would only use the Easy Off only if I had a buffing wheel to polish with. I'm sure it can be done by hand, but would require a lot of effort. IMHO I'm planning on starting a resto on my truck. It is a 76 and has the wide belt line moulding. I thougt it was stainless. Is this stuff aluminum? Do I need to strip the coating to polish it back up. It dose have a milky haze to it. Tom H > I always used Easy Off No Bake Oven cleaner. It will etch > the metal if left on > to long, but will polish out with to a mirror finish with a > buffing wheel. ------------------------------ From: MongoCaver Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 15:39:44 EST Subject: mileage of 99 & 00 f250 What kind of fuel mileage are you guys with 1999 and 2000 F250 trucks with Diesels getting? James ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 14:40:25 -0800 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: mileage of 99 & 00 f250 Need more info. 2wd or 4wd? Regular cab, super cab or crew cab? 6 speed or auto? short or long bed? gear ratio? MongoCaver > What kind of fuel mileage are you guys with 1999 and 2000 F250 trucks with > Diesels getting? > James > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 14:51:09 -0800 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: : Re: man vs auto II 99% of the logging operations around the northwest use manual trans in their crummies simply because they are cheaper to maintain and more reliable for multiple drivers. I don't see where you could go any farther with a manual than an automatic in the woods. I think that boils down to more driver experience than transmission choice. Jason Pat wrote: > I wasn't going to get involved in this last forever thread, that was until > the Foreign sporty car stuff. I've asked all the grey haired loggers that I > could talk to in this part of the BC coast about their preference and > y'know, not one of them wanted a 4-spd. in a 4X4 and it certainly wasn't > from lack of experience in driving 4 speeds. All of them told me matter of > factly that you could go places with an auto that you couldn't even go with > a 4 speed. Give me the auto anyday, I just love those glass smooth shifts in > the ugliest of places. And no! My trucks arn't Grand Tourismo models. > Tee-Hee > Pat > Patsplace > 77 F250 4X4 > 78 F150 W/Overloads > 72 Ranger parts truck > 79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction) > 78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT. > > . show me a1968 Ferrari GTO that came with an auto and i might change my > mind, but not likely. > > ===== > Daniel DiMartino > > 1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4 > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: L7514 Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 17:57:44 EST Subject: low oil pressure hen I start up the engine on my 77 f100 (400 engine) the oil pressure gage reads about half. By the time the motor heats up the pressure has dropped as low as the gage will go and stays there while I'm driving. Should I be worried and what can I do besides bring it to my mechanic??? Lance writes: I have a similar problem with my 300 I-6. Except mine is very low on start-up & takes a while to build pressure. Once the engine has been running for approx. 30-40 seconds, it seems to be fine, especially after it has warmed up. I'm scared that I'm causing alot of excess wear during engine start ( besides the usual) & am wondering if I need to replace the oil pump, or look at something else. It has only been doing it now for a few months. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Lance 1974 F-100 custom 300 I-6 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 15:09:48 -0800 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: man vs auto > Towing is easier > with an auto, especially in the hills, but alot of experience with manuals > pretty much evens that one out. > Thats a matter of personal preference. I like being able to upshift on a hill when I think the engine is dropping out of the peak torque rpm. Not when the automatic thinks its time. And I like the security of being able to gear down going down the other side and having engine compression help to slow down. Automatics are limited in this aspect unless they are specifically built to do so. And yes you can manually shift an auto, but it still won't provide near as much compression braking as the manual. > A ZF if ran in OD with a heavy load will self destruct, they > should be run in direct when pulling. > Never heard of this. I had a Powerstroke with the ZF and I always ran in 5th gear (with 21K lbs) as long as the engine had the torque to pull it. There is no massive heat buildup with the ZF in OD as there is with a overdrive automatic. I have rebuilt (replaced) E4OD's that had got so hot that the case had actually melted in areas. The biggest concern with the ZF is extended idle time in neutral which causes premature failure of the input shaft pocket bearings. > As far as costs go, it depends on the trans and how you use it. A clutch > job on a 4X4 can sometimes cost as much as a auto trans R&R. > Yes, but there is transmission overhaul cost on top of that. R&R time is cheap. > A C-6 when > properly maintained will outlast 3 clutches in a manual work truck. An E4OD > is not quite so good, and an AOD is awful if you do much more than drive it > to work. It's really personal preference, I like both fairly evenly. > Agreed. If Ford offered an OD automatic with the durability and strength of the C6, I'd be interested. Jason > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 15:13:32 -0800 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: man vs auto I know they are building new trucks with autos, but I haven't heard much good on the reliability with 80- 100K lb weight factors and 1800 lb/ft torque. The company I work for still specs their trucks with 10 or 13 speeds depending on the application. Jason MC wrote: > Jason Derra wrote: > > >BTW, I couldn't imagine a KW or a Pete with an automatic, period. > > I don't know about Kenworth or Peterbilt, but I work at Freightliner, and we > do build trucks with automatics. > > Just thought I'd throw that out there. > > Matt Cozad > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: "Moore, Jimmy" Subject: Re: low oil pressure Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 17:24:31 -0600 Lance, you should replace the oil sending unit before you tear into the oil pump. Sometimes it gets clogged up and doesn't work. You can get one for about ten bucks at an auto parts store. It's a small silver can looking device about the size of a can of Vienna wieners and screws into the driver's side of the motor near the back. It should have a wire that simply slides over it. Have the new one ready to put in, because you will lose some oil when you pull the old one out. It's probably better to do it with the engine cooled off. If this doesn't improve your gauge readings, then you should consider changing the oil pump. You have to raise the motor to do this, and what I did was take a 4x4 block of wood and use it as a "softener" to jack up the motor on the harmonic balancer. This is because of my lack of a cherry picker or a good, sturdy tree. It's better to remove the front bolts from the oil pan before you jack it up, because other wise the jack is in the way. "If I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all." Jim Moore 1964 Ford F-100 292 1981 Ford F-150 300 Six Oklahoma City, OK -----Original Message----- From: L7514 Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 4:58 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] low oil pressure hen I start up the engine on my 77 f100 (400 engine) the oil pressure gage reads about half. By the time the motor heats up the pressure has dropped as low as the gage will go and stays there while I'm driving. Should I be worried and what can I do besides bring it to my mechanic??? Lance writes: I have a similar problem with my 300 I-6. Except mine is very low on start-up & takes a while to build pressure. Once the engine has been running for approx. 30-40 seconds, it seems to be fine, especially after it has warmed up. I'm scared that I'm causing alot of excess wear during engine start ( besides the usual) & am wondering if I need to replace the oil pump, or look at something else. It has only been doing it now for a few months. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Lance 1974 F-100 custom 300 I-6 ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 17:44:32 -0600 From: Ron Martens Subject: Re: low oil pressure ROCH FRAPPIER wrote: > When I start up the engine on my 77 f100 (400 engine) the oil pressure gage > reads about half. By the time the motor heats up the pressure has dropped > as low as the gage will go and stays there while I'm driving. Should I be > worried and what can I do besides bring it to my mechanic??? > > ROCKY > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. Change out the sender, its not costly, 'bout ten bucks or so. ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 19:31:02 EST Subject: Re: FW: Found- Anodizing remover In a message dated 3/28/00 10:34:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, Tom.Hogan < < I always used Easy Off No Bake Oven cleaner. > > Its also a GREAT engine degreaser!! Been using it for a week on a truck Im swappin motors in. Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" ------------------------------ From: Clemstang1 Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 19:38:13 EST Subject: Re: 67 Grill, 68 to 70 DOVE series heads. Stoney, Would like to get $250 out of a set of these heads.....complete heads all that is needed is to have them reconditioned.....have a set of late model heads that have been machined for adj. rockers too if these might interest you. If you are interested still let me know..... Thanks Jeff ------------------------------ From: "Patrick Green" Subject: 83 mustang Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 12:54:37 -0800 I know that this not a truck question but, I have searched all over the web and parts place and have found no answers. I have a 83 mustang with a 232 v6, I want to know if anyone knows of any aftermarket parts availability for this Ford motor. I am Mostly interested in an intake manifold/etc to get away from the stock carb to increase fuel mileage. thanks in advance, Patrick ------------------------------ From: "mike schuh" Subject: Re: Tough to fill-up Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 19:17:45 CST had a 75 that did the same thing.i loosened the clamps and spun the rubber hose that goes between the frame and box 90 deg.also check your vent -trucks.com> >Reply-To: 61-79-list >To: 61-79-list >Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Tough to fill-up >Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 10:47:25 -0600 > > > It is better if the doner truck is in the recycling yard or the owner >has > > approved this procedure. > >I suppose they might let you acquire a bed by weight...wait until it's >dark, >then.... > >Seriously, another option might be to reroute the filler necks to your >fender wells or inside the bed so that you could add some height to the cap >location. Just a thought. > >Maybe some kind of neck extender? You could call it the Ostrich and sell >them to other Ford truck owners. Steve, this sounds like something you >could >fabricate. How about an old flexible snout like you would put on a GI gas >can? I don't think it would seal right and you would still spill. > >How about a floor jack so you could raise the whole side of the truck when >you fill up. Naw... > >-- John >jlagrone >1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) >http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm >Dearborn iron rules!!!! >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: canzus Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 17:36:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: man vs auto At 07:55 AM 28:03:2000 -0600, you wrote: >I think part of the auto vs. manual debate relates back to our own >experiences. I have owned several non FoMoCo autos that were pure junk. I >can easily see how anyone who had owned one of these models would be totally >disenchanted with the product. I have owned non-Ford automatics, and hate every one of them, the worst of them was a S-10 Blazer, with a 2.8L AT 4WD, what a piece of work that turned out to be. It didn't have enough power to get out of it's own way, never mind anyone elses. The torque converter would lock up at ridiculously low speed and then wouldn't unlock if you stuck your foot in it. Plus, it shifted like it was oozing from one gear to the next. No crisp shifts for this rolling roadblock. Rockette hated it with a passion only women seem to possess. So we disposed of it after a year of ownership, traded in on a '94 SHO, we're much happier now... Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in..... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 17:36:37 -0800 From: Steve Subject: Parts I have a 71 F250 Camper Special. I need a hood, a grill, a tailgate and trim items as well as interior stuff. Where is the place to go for this stuff??? Thank you for any help...I am new Steve ------------------------------ From: "ServiceMark" Subject: 72 sport custom Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 20:56:52 -0500 Hi all, I hope I'm doing this right. I've loved old fords since I was a little kid, but just got serious after picking up a 72 sport custom yesterday. I was hoping to find others who have similar trucks to tell me a little about mine. Mine has a 302/auto/air/ps/pb/2WD and a lot of trim. Can anyone tell me if this set up is good, bad, indifferent, etc??? My day job is as a house appraiser, so if anyone can help me with my pickup, I'd be happy to answer any questions about home values. Yours, Chris ------------------------------ From: "Mike Pacheco" Subject: Re: 72 sport custom Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 18:19:21 -0800 With a 72 Sport Custom there is no bad, and you have all the extra's... lucky you, I have everything non-power and it had a 302. Mike in Burien -----Original Message----- From: 61-79-list-bounce [mailto:61-79-list-bounce Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 5:57 PM To: 61-79-list Subject: [61-79-list] 72 sport custom Hi all, I hope I'm doing this right. I've loved old fords since I was a little kid, but just got serious after picking up a 72 sport custom yesterday. I was hoping to find others who have similar trucks to tell me a little about mine. Mine has a 302/auto/air/ps/pb/2WD and a lot of trim. Can anyone tell me if this set up is good, bad, indifferent, etc??? My day job is as a house appraiser, so if anyone can help me with my pickup, I'd be happy to answer any questions about home values. Yours, Chris ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ From: "Keith Kubiak" <55fordf100 Subject: Re: Parts Date: Tue, 28 Mar 2000 18:32:44 -0800 I recently parted out a 68 F250. The grill isn't the same but the tailgate should be. It's a plain Jane tailgate without any chrome trim (Probably not what came with a Camper Special package). I also have various interior parts, let me know what you are looking for. I have seen plenty of 67-72 Ford trucks in the junk yards here in San Diego. Other places to get parts are http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.obsoletefordparts.com and http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.longmotor.com/fordcats.html . There are other parts sources and I'm sure you will find some great info at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ford-trucks.com/.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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