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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 23 Mar 2000 22:43:37 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 22:43:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #47
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 22 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 047

In This Issue:
Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop
460 Crank Journals
Re: Answers
Re: Answers
Year 2000 Car Events in the Pacific Northwest
Re: 460 Crank Journals
Re: Grease seal replacement
For Sale
Help, my 429 is suffocating
Re: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60
lookin' for engine
Re: Clunk
CLUNK when taking off from a stop
Re: Restore Shop Sacramento Area
Re: Electric Fuel pumps.
FE problems/Spotting Hi-Boys
Rear axle seals
3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner
Re: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner
Late 70's F250/High Boy
Re: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner
Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop
Re: 460 Crank Journals
Re: Grease seal replacement
Re: Kingpins
Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop
1970 steering

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 19:21:35 -0800
Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop
From: "Jeff Norville" sosinet.net>

Hm, my 79 Bronco had nasty clunk - was even worse when shifting into reverse
and backing up a hill - and the problem ate up countless u-joints and
finally a drive shaft. A Jeep mechanic in Salinas noticed the rear perches,
providing contact for the round axle on the flat frame, had been "eaten
away" by rocking motion of the axle. Clunk.

Culprit? U-bolts holding the axle were way loose, probably were wrong size
from a previous shade-tree owner. Made me nervous...

Some welding and replacement of the 3" with a 4" kit took care of things.
Now I just need the driveshaft lengthened...

BTW, three of my four main driveline bolts had been loosened by this; one
sheared.

One difference - I have a four speed.

Jeff

> ... I have been trying, unsuccessfully, to find
> replacement transmission mounts. A friend just told me that this
> is common in '70's Ford pickups....

------------------------------

From: "Luke Phillips" hotmail.com>
Subject: 460 Crank Journals
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:46:53 CST

Ok guys heres one. Why is the small oil hole in the first crank journal (in
the block) drilled off center? When you put the bearing in the journal it
blocks off 95% of that small hole. All the rest of the small holes in the
journals line up perfectly. Is this done for a reason? If anyone knows
PLEASE let me know. Thanks

Luke Phillips
67 F100 shortbed 240 I6 (460 in the works!) 2001 SuperNats Bound!
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Luke Phillips" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Answers
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:32:55 CST

This is just my feeling, Buy a 750 vac. secondary it can only help!
Hope it works!

Luke Phillips
67 F100 shortbed 240 I6 (460 in the works!) 2001 SuperNats Bound!

>From: JefriHansn aol.com
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: kendrick mddc.com
>CC: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Answers
>Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:57:08 EST
>
> Got some answers today on a little problem I've been having with the
>truck (79 F-150 4WD with '69 429) lately. What do you think? Found a guy
>who builds big block Ford streetable strip machines and he gave a
>twice/thrice over.
> Ever since I plumbed in the PVC system have had a heck of a time
>getting
>a stable idle - idles 500 this trip - 1000 the next. Shut it off - diesels
>this time - fires and sends the motor back spnning the next. 2500 rmps in
>2nd
>and 3rd draws 17 on the vacume gage - 2500 in 4th draws 8-10 (thats 65-68
>mph
>- the motor isn't dragging with the 4:11's - 33 inch tires) Climbed the
>motor over with a can of ether - no vacume leaks anywhere.
> If I say it here - I've said it a million times - I'm bassackwards -
>can
>listen to a person describe problems with thier modern era Ford and
>pinpoint
>the problem censor in an EFI system - but don't know zip point schitt about
>a
>carborator. Kid today taught me bunchs in the span of 5 minutes - says
>thats
>about how easy they are. Told/showed me the reason I can turn these idle
>mixture screws ALL the way in - and it'll sit there just a thumping away,
>only slightly slow in idle - no dieing here.
> Showed me the problem lies in the fact the engine is suffocating with
>the
>holley 600cfm 4150 it has on it. Throttle venturies already partially open
>just to idle. All my idle adjustment is with the throttle set screw - not
>the mixture screws.
> So - pluming in the PVC system - it's getting more air - via the
>vacume
>on the PVC line - but this has caused less air to mix with the gas in the
>carb. Hince - erratic idle.
> Said I could do one of too things - either get a 750 carb, or take the
>carb off , the venturies out, and drill holes in the venturies. The latter
>would give more seat of the pants torque, but less highway power. Told him
>it already has too much of each - 2nd and 3rd gear torque and the power to
>constantly break things.
> What do you think?
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:34:26 -0600
Subject: Re: Answers
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>

Jef,
If you've eliminated everything else here's a last resort modification.
As far as the idle situation goes it sounds like the throttle butterflies
are too far open in relation to the idle discharge ports in the carb
throttle body at idle. This could be do to a hotter cam, etc. Pull the
carb and take a good look at the position of the throttle butterflies
when closed in relation to the idle discharge ports. What happens is
that with the butterfly tips farther away from the discharge ports there
is not enough (or no) vacuum sensed to draw the fuel through the idle
circuit. A remedy for that is to drill a tiny hole in each primary
throttle butterfly. This hole allows more air through at a given
throttle position. So to achieve the same idle speed you have to close
the throttle butterflies more, placing the tips closer to the idle
circuit discharge ports as the carb was designed.
Brett
Super75cab
> Showed me the problem lies in the fact the engine is suffocating
with the
>holley 600cfm 4150 it has on it. Throttle venturies already partially
open
>just to idle. All my idle adjustment is with the throttle set screw -
not
>the mixture screws.
> So - pluming in the PVC system - it's getting more air - via the
vacume
>on the PVC line - but this has caused less air to mix with the gas in
the
>carb. Hince - erratic idle.
> Said I could do one of too things - either get a 750 carb, or take
the
>carb off , the venturies out, and drill holes in the venturies. The
latter
>would give more seat of the pants torque, but less highway power. Told
him
>it already has too much of each - 2nd and 3rd gear torque and the power
to
>constantly break things.
> What do you think?
>From: JefriHansn aol.com
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:05:07 -0800
From: Tim Bowman uswest.net>
Subject: Year 2000 Car Events in the Pacific Northwest

If you go to my home page at:

www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman

I have posted a schedule of the major car/truck events in the Pacific
Northwest. I hope this helps in planning the events that you may want
to attend this spring and summer.

I'll be adding specific events that may not be on the above schedule.
Please email me offlist with suggestions for inclusion in the list.

--
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net



------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 01:01:38 EST
Subject: Re: 460 Crank Journals

I
<< Ok guys heres one. Why is the small oil hole in the first crank journal
(in
the block) drilled off center? When you put the bearing in the journal it
blocks off 95% of that small hole. All the rest of the small holes in the
journals line up perfectly. Is this done for a reason? If anyone knows
PLEASE let me know. Thanks >>

I chamfered the hole back toward the center with a drill bit so the oil would
not be blocked by the bearing. I figured this was just a problem with my
block. If this is drilled off center on purpose I am not aware of it. You
got me concerned. If anyone can shed some light on this please do.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: Grease seal replacement
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 02:00:42 -0500


> Subject: Grease seal replacement
>
> I need to replace the seals on the rear axels
> of my 79 F150. These things are huge compared to
> normal car seals. I need to remove the bearings
> but it looks like pressing them off will damage them
> and they too will need to be replaced. Of course then
> I will need to replace the races as well. Is there a
> way to do this without damaging the bearings?

Is this the 8.8" or 9" axle ?



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 23:35:16 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: For Sale

77 F150 Ranger 4WD, 351M, 435 4 speed, 205, AC, new tires and wheels,
lots of work has been done, solid, great running, decent looking truck,
$3500 or offer Email off list if interested.
Thanks, Jason


------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" Cinergy.com>
Subject: Help, my 429 is suffocating
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 04:24:28 -0500

いFrom: JefriHansnaol.com
いDate: Wed, 22 Mar 2000
いSubject: Need some Answers
い Got some answers today.........................
い What do you think..........................?
い Found a guy who....................
い Kid today taught me bunches ........................
い Told me the reason .............
い Showed me the problem...............
い It's suffocating .............due to the Holley 600cfm
い Said I could do one of too things -
い What do you think?
==========================================================
Jeff- Looks to me like your carburetor expert was close, but off the mark
just a little. First, a 600 Holley is MORE then adequate to supply enough
air and fuel to let a 429 idle. There's no way that engine is suffocating at
idle due to the carbs size alone. It would idle fine even with a lowly 2
bbl. on it. But it does sound like you have an idle mixture problem. If the
mixture screws are not responsive then their passages are blocked, either by
dirt or an improperly placed gasket. If the throttle plates are that far
open, then you aren't pulling anything through the idle slots anyway, which
is where the idle mixture is supposed to come into the throttle bore. If
they are in fact open too far, your pulling fuel into the engine through the
transition slots or maybe even the main metering system. It'll never idle
right with the plates open too far. I'd recommend a carb teardown /
inspection by a "knowledgeable" carb guy and have him look for problems
internally. As far as drilling the "Venturi", I assume he meant the throttle
plates? Sometimes with a large cam that's the only way to get a decent idle
and still keep the throttle plates closed so it will idle, but you never
mentioned a large cam?? I've never heard of drilling the Venturi, and I
don't think I'd want this guy doing it. As far as your 2 choices, if you
change the carb your gonna "prove him right" because it will probably run
fine with a brand new carb. But I sure don't think you need one. You just
need your current carb repaired by somebody that knows what he's talking
about. That Holley is about as tunable as any carb ever made, I'm sure it
will work fine if it's setup right. Good luck, Phil


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:06:37 -0500
From: Tony Marino raex.com>
Subject: Re: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60

Hey Darrell,

Give these guys a call-- ask for parts- let me know how you make out-- I
have one of those axles laying around and would like to know if they can
still get the stuff-

Sam Winer Motors
330-628-4881

They are the local Dana/Spicer dealer to me, and they deal with some
serious stuff, military and civilian, and have fixed me up with stuff
NOBODY has been able to find... 8-)

Thanks--

Tony Marino
redneckraex.com



At 11:49 AM 3/22/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>Well folks, Im still outta luck. Ive got locaters turned on all over the
>country and no luck with that axle. Let me refresh your memory. Im looking
>for the inner driverside axle for a heavy duty dana 60 front axle. Its gone
>obsolete on me, and the truck is on jack stands! Seems ford only used it for
>4 yrs, and in that time, only the beefiest of F-350's got it. So my next
>question, is the only difference between a light duty 60 and a heavy duty 60
>the u-joint? if so can I swap one for the other? I gotta find out soon, cuz
>Seein that truck just sit is just not a good thing. Afterall, this is the
>ford I cut my teeth on, and the one that also pulls Tweety out whenever I
>overestimate the abilities of 2wd on sand.
> Also ona side note, Weve had trouble lately with the brakes on the front
>coming apart. The ears on the spindle have spread apart over the years ( due
>to a lot of matierial being removed so we could fit a 15'' rim on it.) We
>tried shiming, but the shims just fall out. Our next experiment may involve
>a press to push them back together. If that doesnt work, Im trying to talk
>dad into new knuckles, and stepping up to a 16'' rim, and using the new Baja
>Kings from Mickey Thompson. They have an almost identical tread to the old
>maxi-tracks that he's always raving I should try to find for Tweety. But
>that is a lot of $$ so Im lookin for ideas. If any of you can help, please
>dont hold back!!
>
>Darrell Duggan
>74 F-350 "Tweety"
>tryin to fix pops 75 F-250 4x4 "Big Toe"
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:42:18 -0600
From: "Howard Bottles" austin.ppdi.com>
Subject: lookin' for engine

Wondering if anyone on the list in the central Texas area may have a
good usable Ford Straight 6, either 240 ci or 300 ci for sale, if so I'd
be interested. The engine in my "new" '73 shortbed is in need of help.
If anyone has one or any leads on one, I'd appreciate it.

TIA

Howardb


------------------------------

From: dracopacifier.com
Subject: Re: Clunk
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 06:57:44 -0800 (PST)

Darrell wrote:
> Do you still feel all 3 shifts? is there a chance that it is goin from 1st to 2nd to quickly?

Since it is a 3 speed transmission I only feel 2 shifts. :) Sorry.

My first thought was that the transmission might not be shifting
into 1st when stopping, then shifts suddenly into 1st when I start
to take off. This is what it feels like it is doing. Is that
possible?

Anyway, I am surprised that no one else has this clunk. I had one
person e-mail me offline that his truck does this. He says he
replaced everything that might cause this and does not know what
it is.

The person who originally told me about it also says his truck was
a restoration and had a sound driveline including a newly rebuilt
rearend, new u-joints, engine and transmission mounts, etc. My
other friend with the Bronco is someone I know to maintain his
vehicles extremely well.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 09:36:17 -0600
From: George Ramsower stic.net>
Subject: CLUNK when taking off from a stop

Mine has been doing something like this for about 13 years. It feels
like a load shift when I take off from a light. Sort of like heavy gas
in the tank shifting back when I take off. But it is just a short, mild
jolt when it does it. I suspected the band on second gear was sticking,
and releasing just as I take off. The engine and tranny mounts are okay.
Other than that, I have no idea why mine does that. I wonder if yours
is the same problem.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:11:18 -0700
From: Brian Koss mail.arc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Restore Shop Sacramento Area

I talked to a shop that specializes in restorations that is located in
Modesto. Amador Body and Paint (209-524-2444). They would even come out and
look at the project instead of me taking it to them. They quoted about $4K
for a frame off with complete stripping of paint. Since I live in the Bay
area I thought this was petty competitive. If you deside to do it yourself
there is a sand blaster in Folsom, American Stripping (916-387-9933) that
qouted $275 to completely blast the inside and outside of the cab and $150
to spray it with acid etching primer when done.

I have chosen to do the work myself except for the final finish coat of
paint. I want a urethane paint but don't want to spray it because of the
isocyanates. I probably will not save any money but I will know that what
little filler is used and will have time to shrink before the final coat of
paint is put on. I have chosen to have most of my parts powder coated which
hasn't been overly expensive since they blast them and paint them. All I
have to do is clean them up a little bit bring them in and then pick up new
looking parts. I REALLY liking working with clean parts. Beware, this can
get complusive.



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:25:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Fuel pumps.

Jeff,

I use a Carter P4070. It is available from Summit for
about $55.00. You have to add a fuel filter on the
input side and an Oil Pressure cutoff switch. You can
get the switch and the pump from a good auto parts
store. You also need a block off plate, or you can
just leave your old pump in place. It works great and
supplies a 750CFM carb on a 400.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V



>From: "Jeff Hannon" aha.com>
>Subject: Electric Fuel pumps.
>Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 07:51:27 -0800


>Well, I'm about to replace the mechanical fuel pump
>for
>the 3rd time in 5 years on my 300-6. I'm sick of this
>thing always going out on me. And I haven't been
>buying
>the cheapo pumps either!
>This time I want to also put in an electric pump as a
>backup. For those people who have done this... whose
>electric pump did you buy?


>Jeff



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:37:27 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FE problems/Spotting Hi-Boys



>>>>>>>>>>>Scott,

It sounds like a valve seating problem to me. It is
very difficult to see this with a compression test.
However valves do not go bad suddenly.

I have discovered a bad spring!!!!I'm pleased because I finally found
something wrong!!
Now I'm thinking the drivability issue I had before the spring went
could be valve related.
I need to check my valve clearance.My question is how the heck do you
collapse the lifers to check the clearance on a FE?I have tried every
tool in my arsenal and even made a tool with no results.I only got 2 to
collapse.
I read Ballingers tech article at FTE so all I need is the proper tool.

>>>>>>>>High humidity and condensation can be a problem in the spring. How
is the weather where you are?

I live in the desert in Reno,but I don't drive the truck much.After I
get it
running right that will change though....

>>>>>>>>A hotter coil will produce higher voltage. The chance of cross firing
will increase with higher voltage. Check your wires in the dark.

Forgot about this trick,I'll do this after I get the valve situation
straightened out.


>>>>>>>You may look at the fuel pump deal. Maybe put in a clear (plastic, not
glass!) filter between the pump and the carb to see if it's
really getting up there.

Fuel delivery does not seem to be the problem,but another fine idea.

>>>>>>>>>>>Also, since you have a 428, I'm betting you have a dual exhaust. Maybe look back along the driver's side pipe and see if it comes anywhere near the fuel line running inside the frame rail.....

Another good idea but I have plenty of clearance.


>>>>>>>>>One other thing, do you have a good ground strap from you engine to the frame? Might try this as well...
CJ

No I don't. I have a #10 wire from the CAB to the engine,but not to the
frame.
I'll run another #10 to the frame.This was something I was going to
do,but
I never got around to it.

>>>>>>>>>Are the 3 possibly 4 cylinders on the same side of the
carb?
No they are all over the map.Even tho I have found a bad spring wonder
how this would effect the other cylinders so drastically.

>>>>>>>> I assume you have a dual plane manifold. Sometimes
some crap gets into one of the jets and make it lose
some cylinders.

Another good idea,but the carb checks out OK.

>>>>>>>>>Next check the points, assuming you have them.

Nope,I have a Uni-Lite.BTW for any other Uni-Lite owners check out
centuryperformance.com for troubleshooting procedures

>>>>>>>>Just raving, hope it helps Bill

Thanks for raving,and thanks to all for the help


>>>>>>>> hi boys are great but can we move on? joking

Here is my response to that :)

>>>>>>>>nope... the highboys made in 77 were offered with the 351M or 400... 77 was the last year of the highboy. My highboy has a manufacturing date of 07/77. it came with the 400, C6, divoriced NP 205,

Very interesting,My 76 origianly came with a married C-6 full time 205
set-up.
I switched to the divorced 4 spd part time 205 combo.I have never seen a
divorced auto trans set-up.Were does your T-case lever attach to?
A special tailshaft on the C-6?

>>>>>>>>>>>I heard somwhere that the highboys that had a stick shift came with a married 205 but have not checked to verify this so I cant say for sure.

I used to have a 75.That is were I got the divorced 4spd 205 combo for
my 76.
The 75 also had a closed knucle drum brake 44 in it.I originaly bought
my 76 for it's open knuckle disc brake 44 front end after tearing the
spindle bolts out of the closed knuckle front end one too many
times.After close inspection I realized the thrashed 76 was actually in
better shape than my 75 so I combined the two trucks and a doors,a
fender and a bed from four other trucks on the 76 frame to ctreate my
mongrel Hi-Boy.
I know it is pretty sad when the parts truck is better than the one you
are driving.



Laters, Danny Ling

------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Rear axle seals
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 12:45:03 -0500

Bill P. writes: >>I need to replace the seals on the rear axels
of my 79 F150. These things are huge compared to
normal car seals. I need to remove the bearings
but it looks like pressing them off will damage them
and they too will need to be replaced. Of course then
I will need to replace the races as well. Is there a
way to do this without damaging the bearings?<<

I take it that you have the tapered roller bearings with the seal being
outboard of the bearings!!!(not all are this way, believe me) If so, then,
No you can't replace the seals unless you remove the bearings. You can
reuse the bearings, but you're not supposed to reuse the "ring" that keeps
it located, and I'm not sure you can pruchase the rings seperately.
Gotchya there. If you don't have a good press, then take the axles to your
favorite automotive machine shop and have them do the labor for you..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 12:11:29 -0600
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
Subject: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner

I have been trying to locate the flimsy 3/4 inch diameter aluminum tube
which is wrapped in a black paper tape
that runs from the air cleaner (dry element) to the charcoal cannister on a
71 FE powered truck.
They also used these on other models too.

I have tried the Ford dealer and every other parts house and supplier in town
and in the next burg up the road. No luck. I have tried the help section
in the parts store
and every other oddball place I could think of. I called Mustang
suppliers, Obsolete parts dealers and notta.

If anyone has seen this for sale please let me know ASAP.

I need a strectch of it atleast 4 feet long. Thanks for any help.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 11:10:06 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Re: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner

Stu Varner wrote:
>
> I have been trying to locate the flimsy 3/4 inch diameter aluminum tube
> which is wrapped in a black paper tape
> that runs from the air cleaner (dry element) to the charcoal cannister on a
> 71 FE powered truck.

What's the story on that tube? The one in my 72 is all split and
useless. I've asked a couple mechanics if it didn't need to be replaced
and they just said nhaaa it didnt matter. True?

Denny
'72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K

------------------------------

From: "kamook" msn.com>
Subject: Late 70's F250/High Boy
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 11:14:31 -0800


Hello Everyone,

Well let me give you the run down, I have always been a Ford fan, and have been dreaming of a 70's Ford Pickup for quite sometime. Well when it came time to buy my first truck (I'm 17) my grandpa gave me a 81 Chevy C10, which does its job pretty well and has given me a new respect for Chevy's. But I still want a Ford 4x4. What I have decided to do is buy a mid to late 70 F150/250 4x4, and rebuild/restore it.

Well anyway, I have some questions.
First about highboys; what engines were put in them? I'm looking at hopefully a 360 or 351 for Gas Milege reasons. BTW, what kind of milege could I expect out of one of these bad boys with a mildly built engine (I'm looking at Crane Cam, Edelbrock carb w/ stock manifold, MSD ignition etc). What axles were used on these? and what tires could I fit stock? Were highboys only F250's or were there F150 highboys also?

Just any information you could give me, suggestions etc would really help. Oh and does anyone have the HP/Torque ratings for these engines?

Can't wait to get me a Ford!

Sincerely
Adam Houlne


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 13:34:13 -0600
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner

Denny,

The story on the tube is (IMHO) it is a usless piece that does not affect
performance.
BUT, Since I am doing a frame off restoration I need it for the look.

Wish,

Come on man. You mean to tell me you have never seen this on an older post
'70 model Ford
truck. The tube runs from the air cleaner on the passengers side to the
charcoal canister
which is positioned on the passengers side front. There is also a fuel
line that runs back to the
fuel tank and acts as a vapor recovery system. Antique emmisions!

It is 3/4 inches in diameter and approx 3 1/2 to 4 feet long wrapped in a
black paper type tape.

Stu
Nuke GM
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm

>> I have been trying to locate the flimsy 3/4 inch diameter aluminum tube
>> which is wrapped in a black paper tape
>> that runs from the air cleaner (dry element) to the charcoal cannister on a
>> 71 FE powered truck.
>
>What's the story on that tube? The one in my 72 is all split and
>useless. I've asked a couple mechanics if it didn't need to be replaced
>and they just said nhaaa it didnt matter. True?
>

------------------------------

From: oldfords63juno.com
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 16:24:12 -0600
Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop

When you accelerate from a stop, the truck starts to move for a bit and
CLUNK.
===================================================================
Sometimes this is a result of movement in the suspension / driveshaft
from "spring wrap". When you slow to a stop the pinion wants to go down.
That pulls the yoke "out" on the splines. Sitting still it's held firmly
by engine torque right where it is. Then when you accelerate, the pinion
wants to go up, pushing the yoke "in" slightly. That sudden release and
movement can cause that CLUNK you hear.
Often this movement will be felt right under the seat . It's especially
noticable on a high milage truck, due to a little extra wear on the
splines resulting in a "step" in the teeth. When it jumps off the step
you get a load Pop. Sometimes a little heavy grease on the yoke splines
will alleviate this problem. This is even worse if you stop hard, which
pulls the yoke out more, then take off hard which makes it want to go
back in quickly.
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: "Luke Phillips" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Crank Journals
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 15:47:31 CST

Hey Burt, I think it is suppose to be that way I just don't know why. In the
rebuild book I have it shows a picture of the crank journals in a 351C. The
small hole is drilled off on it to. I want to know WHY,WHY,WHY??? Please
Help!!! Thanks...

Luke Phillips
67 F100 shortbed 240 I6 (460 in the works!) 2001 SuperNats Bound!

>From: SHill48337aol.com
>Reply-To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 460 Crank Journals
>Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 01:01:38 EST
>
>I
><< Ok guys heres one. Why is the small oil hole in the first crank journal
>(in
> the block) drilled off center? When you put the bearing in the journal it
> blocks off 95% of that small hole. All the rest of the small holes in the
> journals line up perfectly. Is this done for a reason? If anyone knows
> PLEASE let me know. Thanks >>
>
>I chamfered the hole back toward the center with a drill bit so the oil
>would
>not be blocked by the bearing. I figured this was just a problem with my
>block. If this is drilled off center on purpose I am not aware of it. You
>got me concerned. If anyone can shed some light on this please do.
>Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 19:00:39 -0500
From: bill poudrier ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: Grease seal replacement

9" removable carrier. Don't think that the 8.8
existed in 79 at least in trucks.

At 02:00 AM 3/23/00 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> Subject: Grease seal replacement
>>
>> I need to replace the seals on the rear axels
>> of my 79 F150. These things are huge compared to
>> normal car seals. I need to remove the bearings
>> but it looks like pressing them off will damage them
>> and they too will need to be replaced. Of course then
>> I will need to replace the races as well. Is there a
>> way to do this without damaging the bearings?
>
> Is this the 8.8" or 9" axle ?
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "Daniel Maxwell" earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kingpins
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 19:23:18 -0500

> From: "Jerry Splawn" tcac.net>
> Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin
> Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 11:46:33 -0600
>
> I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck kingpin !!!!!! The
> sucker just will not come out!!
> Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out?
>
When I worked in an alignment shop a few life times ago, we put on penatrant
oil, a little heat and an air hammer. We got them out every time, may take a
bit though. Watch the threads on the grease caps, and don't forget the
locking pin.



------------------------------

From: SLOW78FORDaol.com
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 21:49:06 EST
Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop

In a message dated 3/22/00 2:54:35 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
dracopacifier.com writes:

<< My truck does this. I have been trying, unsuccessfully, to find
replacement transmission mounts. A friend just told me that this
is common in '70's Ford pickups. His '79 did it and his friend's
'72 did it. I asked another friend who told me his '71 Bronco
did it too. >>

My dad's 78 f150 does that and we found out that it was the drum brakes on
one side sticking. We have tried everything to stop it, but nothing works so
we just let it clunk.


Brian
78 F150 351M (207,000 with no engine rebuild)


------------------------------

From: "Terry anderson" hotmail.com>
Subject: 1970 steering
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 19:44:25 PST

just bought a 1970 f100 ranger..and boy is it all over the road!Is this just
a steering box prob or a major alignment problem?Ireally dont know much but
am willing to learn.Thanks
terry967...new owner 1972 f100 ranger..360..and real new 1970 ranger owner
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #47
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