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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 23 Mar 2000 22:43:37 -0500 (EST) Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 22:43:37 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #47 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Wed, 22 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 047 In This Issue: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop 460 Crank Journals Re: Answers Re: Answers Year 2000 Car Events in the Pacific Northwest Re: 460 Crank Journals Re: Grease seal replacement For Sale Help, my 429 is suffocating Re: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60 lookin' for engine Re: Clunk CLUNK when taking off from a stop Re: Restore Shop Sacramento Area Re: Electric Fuel pumps. FE problems/Spotting Hi-Boys Rear axle seals 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner Re: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner Late 70's F250/High Boy Re: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop Re: 460 Crank Journals Re: Grease seal replacement Re: Kingpins Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop 1970 steering ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 19:21:35 -0800 Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop From: "Jeff Norville" Hm, my 79 Bronco had nasty clunk - was even worse when shifting into reverse and backing up a hill - and the problem ate up countless u-joints and finally a drive shaft. A Jeep mechanic in Salinas noticed the rear perches, providing contact for the round axle on the flat frame, had been "eaten away" by rocking motion of the axle. Clunk. Culprit? U-bolts holding the axle were way loose, probably were wrong size from a previous shade-tree owner. Made me nervous... Some welding and replacement of the 3" with a 4" kit took care of things. Now I just need the driveshaft lengthened... BTW, three of my four main driveline bolts had been loosened by this; one sheared. One difference - I have a four speed. Jeff > ... I have been trying, unsuccessfully, to find > replacement transmission mounts. A friend just told me that this > is common in '70's Ford pickups.... ------------------------------ From: "Luke Phillips" Subject: 460 Crank Journals Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:46:53 CST Ok guys heres one. Why is the small oil hole in the first crank journal (in the block) drilled off center? When you put the bearing in the journal it blocks off 95% of that small hole. All the rest of the small holes in the journals line up perfectly. Is this done for a reason? If anyone knows PLEASE let me know. Thanks Luke Phillips 67 F100 shortbed 240 I6 (460 in the works!) 2001 SuperNats Bound! ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Luke Phillips" Subject: Re: Answers Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:32:55 CST This is just my feeling, Buy a 750 vac. secondary it can only help! Hope it works! Luke Phillips 67 F100 shortbed 240 I6 (460 in the works!) 2001 SuperNats Bound! >From: JefriHansn aol.com >Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com >To: kendrick mddc.com >CC: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com >Subject: [61-79-list] Answers >Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:57:08 EST > > Got some answers today on a little problem I've been having with the >truck (79 F-150 4WD with '69 429) lately. What do you think? Found a guy >who builds big block Ford streetable strip machines and he gave a >twice/thrice over. > Ever since I plumbed in the PVC system have had a heck of a time >getting >a stable idle - idles 500 this trip - 1000 the next. Shut it off - diesels >this time - fires and sends the motor back spnning the next. 2500 rmps in >2nd >and 3rd draws 17 on the vacume gage - 2500 in 4th draws 8-10 (thats 65-68 >mph >- the motor isn't dragging with the 4:11's - 33 inch tires) Climbed the >motor over with a can of ether - no vacume leaks anywhere. > If I say it here - I've said it a million times - I'm bassackwards - >can >listen to a person describe problems with thier modern era Ford and >pinpoint >the problem censor in an EFI system - but don't know zip point schitt about >a >carborator. Kid today taught me bunchs in the span of 5 minutes - says >thats >about how easy they are. Told/showed me the reason I can turn these idle >mixture screws ALL the way in - and it'll sit there just a thumping away, >only slightly slow in idle - no dieing here. > Showed me the problem lies in the fact the engine is suffocating with >the >holley 600cfm 4150 it has on it. Throttle venturies already partially open >just to idle. All my idle adjustment is with the throttle set screw - not >the mixture screws. > So - pluming in the PVC system - it's getting more air - via the >vacume >on the PVC line - but this has caused less air to mix with the gas in the >carb. Hince - erratic idle. > Said I could do one of too things - either get a 750 carb, or take the >carb off , the venturies out, and drill holes in the venturies. The latter >would give more seat of the pants torque, but less highway power. Told him >it already has too much of each - 2nd and 3rd gear torque and the power to >constantly break things. > What do you think? >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:34:26 -0600 Subject: Re: Answers From: Brett L Habben Jef, If you've eliminated everything else here's a last resort modification. As far as the idle situation goes it sounds like the throttle butterflies are too far open in relation to the idle discharge ports in the carb throttle body at idle. This could be do to a hotter cam, etc. Pull the carb and take a good look at the position of the throttle butterflies when closed in relation to the idle discharge ports. What happens is that with the butterfly tips farther away from the discharge ports there is not enough (or no) vacuum sensed to draw the fuel through the idle circuit. A remedy for that is to drill a tiny hole in each primary throttle butterfly. This hole allows more air through at a given throttle position. So to achieve the same idle speed you have to close the throttle butterflies more, placing the tips closer to the idle circuit discharge ports as the carb was designed. Brett Super75cab > Showed me the problem lies in the fact the engine is suffocating with the >holley 600cfm 4150 it has on it. Throttle venturies already partially open >just to idle. All my idle adjustment is with the throttle set screw - not >the mixture screws. > So - pluming in the PVC system - it's getting more air - via the vacume >on the PVC line - but this has caused less air to mix with the gas in the >carb. Hince - erratic idle. > Said I could do one of too things - either get a 750 carb, or take the >carb off , the venturies out, and drill holes in the venturies. The latter >would give more seat of the pants torque, but less highway power. Told him >it already has too much of each - 2nd and 3rd gear torque and the power to >constantly break things. > What do you think? >From: JefriHansn aol.com ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:05:07 -0800 From: Tim Bowman Subject: Year 2000 Car Events in the Pacific Northwest If you go to my home page at: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman I have posted a schedule of the major car/truck events in the Pacific Northwest. I hope this helps in planning the events that you may want to attend this spring and summer. I'll be adding specific events that may not be on the above schedule. Please email me offlist with suggestions for inclusion in the list. -- Tim Bowman Burien, WA tkbowman uswest.net ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.com Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 01:01:38 EST Subject: Re: 460 Crank Journals I << Ok guys heres one. Why is the small oil hole in the first crank journal (in the block) drilled off center? When you put the bearing in the journal it blocks off 95% of that small hole. All the rest of the small holes in the journals line up perfectly. Is this done for a reason? If anyone knows PLEASE let me know. Thanks >> I chamfered the hole back toward the center with a drill bit so the oil would not be blocked by the bearing. I figured this was just a problem with my block. If this is drilled off center on purpose I am not aware of it. You got me concerned. If anyone can shed some light on this please do. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: "Serian" Subject: Re: Grease seal replacement Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 02:00:42 -0500 > Subject: Grease seal replacement > > I need to replace the seals on the rear axels > of my 79 F150. These things are huge compared to > normal car seals. I need to remove the bearings > but it looks like pressing them off will damage them > and they too will need to be replaced. Of course then > I will need to replace the races as well. Is there a > way to do this without damaging the bearings? Is this the 8.8" or 9" axle ? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 23:35:16 -0800 From: Jason Derra Subject: For Sale 77 F150 Ranger 4WD, 351M, 435 4 speed, 205, AC, new tires and wheels, lots of work has been done, solid, great running, decent looking truck, $3500 or offer Email off list if interested. Thanks, Jason ------------------------------ From: "Desanto, Phillip" Subject: Help, my 429 is suffocating Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 04:24:28 -0500 いFrom: JefriHansn aol.comいDate: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 いSubject: Need some Answers い Got some answers today......................... い What do you think..........................? い Found a guy who.................... い Kid today taught me bunches ........................ い Told me the reason ............. い Showed me the problem............... い It's suffocating .............due to the Holley 600cfm い Said I could do one of too things - い What do you think? ========================================================== Jeff- Looks to me like your carburetor expert was close, but off the mark just a little. First, a 600 Holley is MORE then adequate to supply enough air and fuel to let a 429 idle. There's no way that engine is suffocating at idle due to the carbs size alone. It would idle fine even with a lowly 2 bbl. on it. But it does sound like you have an idle mixture problem. If the mixture screws are not responsive then their passages are blocked, either by dirt or an improperly placed gasket. If the throttle plates are that far open, then you aren't pulling anything through the idle slots anyway, which is where the idle mixture is supposed to come into the throttle bore. If they are in fact open too far, your pulling fuel into the engine through the transition slots or maybe even the main metering system. It'll never idle right with the plates open too far. I'd recommend a carb teardown / inspection by a "knowledgeable" carb guy and have him look for problems internally. As far as drilling the "Venturi", I assume he meant the throttle plates? Sometimes with a large cam that's the only way to get a decent idle and still keep the throttle plates closed so it will idle, but you never mentioned a large cam?? I've never heard of drilling the Venturi, and I don't think I'd want this guy doing it. As far as your 2 choices, if you change the carb your gonna "prove him right" because it will probably run fine with a brand new carb. But I sure don't think you need one. You just need your current carb repaired by somebody that knows what he's talking about. That Holley is about as tunable as any carb ever made, I'm sure it will work fine if it's setup right. Good luck, Phil ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:06:37 -0500 From: Tony Marino Subject: Re: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60 Hey Darrell, Give these guys a call-- ask for parts- let me know how you make out-- I have one of those axles laying around and would like to know if they can still get the stuff- Sam Winer Motors 330-628-4881 They are the local Dana/Spicer dealer to me, and they deal with some serious stuff, military and civilian, and have fixed me up with stuff NOBODY has been able to find... 8-) Thanks-- Tony Marino redneck raex.comAt 11:49 AM 3/22/2000 -0500, you wrote: >Well folks, Im still outta luck. Ive got locaters turned on all over the >country and no luck with that axle. Let me refresh your memory. Im looking >for the inner driverside axle for a heavy duty dana 60 front axle. Its gone >obsolete on me, and the truck is on jack stands! Seems ford only used it for >4 yrs, and in that time, only the beefiest of F-350's got it. So my next >question, is the only difference between a light duty 60 and a heavy duty 60 >the u-joint? if so can I swap one for the other? I gotta find out soon, cuz >Seein that truck just sit is just not a good thing. Afterall, this is the >ford I cut my teeth on, and the one that also pulls Tweety out whenever I >overestimate the abilities of 2wd on sand. > Also ona side note, Weve had trouble lately with the brakes on the front >coming apart. The ears on the spindle have spread apart over the years ( due >to a lot of matierial being removed so we could fit a 15'' rim on it.) We >tried shiming, but the shims just fall out. Our next experiment may involve >a press to push them back together. If that doesnt work, Im trying to talk >dad into new knuckles, and stepping up to a 16'' rim, and using the new Baja >Kings from Mickey Thompson. They have an almost identical tread to the old >maxi-tracks that he's always raving I should try to find for Tweety. But >that is a lot of $$ so Im lookin for ideas. If any of you can help, please >dont hold back!! > >Darrell Duggan >74 F-350 "Tweety" >tryin to fix pops 75 F-250 4x4 "Big Toe" >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:42:18 -0600 From: "Howard Bottles" Subject: lookin' for engine Wondering if anyone on the list in the central Texas area may have a good usable Ford Straight 6, either 240 ci or 300 ci for sale, if so I'd be interested. The engine in my "new" '73 shortbed is in need of help. If anyone has one or any leads on one, I'd appreciate it. TIA Howardb ------------------------------ From: draco pacifier.comSubject: Re: Clunk Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 06:57:44 -0800 (PST) Darrell wrote: > Do you still feel all 3 shifts? is there a chance that it is goin from 1st to 2nd to quickly? Since it is a 3 speed transmission I only feel 2 shifts. :) Sorry. My first thought was that the transmission might not be shifting into 1st when stopping, then shifts suddenly into 1st when I start to take off. This is what it feels like it is doing. Is that possible? Anyway, I am surprised that no one else has this clunk. I had one person e-mail me offline that his truck does this. He says he replaced everything that might cause this and does not know what it is. The person who originally told me about it also says his truck was a restoration and had a sound driveline including a newly rebuilt rearend, new u-joints, engine and transmission mounts, etc. My other friend with the Bronco is someone I know to maintain his vehicles extremely well. Mark in Southwest Washington http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html -- '74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 09:36:17 -0600 From: George Ramsower Subject: CLUNK when taking off from a stop Mine has been doing something like this for about 13 years. It feels like a load shift when I take off from a light. Sort of like heavy gas in the tank shifting back when I take off. But it is just a short, mild jolt when it does it. I suspected the band on second gear was sticking, and releasing just as I take off. The engine and tranny mounts are okay. Other than that, I have no idea why mine does that. I wonder if yours is the same problem. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:11:18 -0700 From: Brian Koss Subject: Re: Restore Shop Sacramento Area I talked to a shop that specializes in restorations that is located in Modesto. Amador Body and Paint (209-524-2444). They would even come out and look at the project instead of me taking it to them. They quoted about $4K for a frame off with complete stripping of paint. Since I live in the Bay area I thought this was petty competitive. If you deside to do it yourself there is a sand blaster in Folsom, American Stripping (916-387-9933) that qouted $275 to completely blast the inside and outside of the cab and $150 to spray it with acid etching primer when done. I have chosen to do the work myself except for the final finish coat of paint. I want a urethane paint but don't want to spray it because of the isocyanates. I probably will not save any money but I will know that what little filler is used and will have time to shrink before the final coat of paint is put on. I have chosen to have most of my parts powder coated which hasn't been overly expensive since they blast them and paint them. All I have to do is clean them up a little bit bring them in and then pick up new looking parts. I REALLY liking working with clean parts. Beware, this can get complusive. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:25:23 -0800 (PST) From: Dan Lee Subject: Re: Electric Fuel pumps. Jeff, I use a Carter P4070. It is available from Summit for about $55.00. You have to add a fuel filter on the input side and an Oil Pressure cutoff switch. You can get the switch and the pump from a good auto parts store. You also need a block off plate, or you can just leave your old pump in place. It works great and supplies a 750CFM carb on a 400. Dan Lee '53 F100 400C-4V >From: "Jeff Hannon" >Subject: Electric Fuel pumps. >Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 07:51:27 -0800 >Well, I'm about to replace the mechanical fuel pump >for >the 3rd time in 5 years on my 300-6. I'm sick of this >thing always going out on me. And I haven't been >buying >the cheapo pumps either! >This time I want to also put in an electric pump as a >backup. For those people who have done this... whose >electric pump did you buy? >Jeff __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 08:37:27 -0800 From: scott Subject: FE problems/Spotting Hi-Boys >>>>>>>>>>>Scott, It sounds like a valve seating problem to me. It is very difficult to see this with a compression test. However valves do not go bad suddenly. I have discovered a bad spring!!!!I'm pleased because I finally found something wrong!! Now I'm thinking the drivability issue I had before the spring went could be valve related. I need to check my valve clearance.My question is how the heck do you collapse the lifers to check the clearance on a FE?I have tried every tool in my arsenal and even made a tool with no results.I only got 2 to collapse. I read Ballingers tech article at FTE so all I need is the proper tool. >>>>>>>>High humidity and condensation can be a problem in the spring. How is the weather where you are? I live in the desert in Reno,but I don't drive the truck much.After I get it running right that will change though.... >>>>>>>>A hotter coil will produce higher voltage. The chance of cross firing will increase with higher voltage. Check your wires in the dark. Forgot about this trick,I'll do this after I get the valve situation straightened out. >>>>>>>You may look at the fuel pump deal. Maybe put in a clear (plastic, not glass!) filter between the pump and the carb to see if it's really getting up there. Fuel delivery does not seem to be the problem,but another fine idea. >>>>>>>>>>>Also, since you have a 428, I'm betting you have a dual exhaust. Maybe look back along the driver's side pipe and see if it comes anywhere near the fuel line running inside the frame rail..... Another good idea but I have plenty of clearance. >>>>>>>>>One other thing, do you have a good ground strap from you engine to the frame? Might try this as well... CJ No I don't. I have a #10 wire from the CAB to the engine,but not to the frame. I'll run another #10 to the frame.This was something I was going to do,but I never got around to it. >>>>>>>>>Are the 3 possibly 4 cylinders on the same side of the carb? No they are all over the map.Even tho I have found a bad spring wonder how this would effect the other cylinders so drastically. >>>>>>>> I assume you have a dual plane manifold. Sometimes some crap gets into one of the jets and make it lose some cylinders. Another good idea,but the carb checks out OK. >>>>>>>>>Next check the points, assuming you have them. Nope,I have a Uni-Lite.BTW for any other Uni-Lite owners check out centuryperformance.com for troubleshooting procedures >>>>>>>>Just raving, hope it helps Bill Thanks for raving,and thanks to all for the help >>>>>>>> hi boys are great but can we move on? joking Here is my response to that :) >>>>>>>>nope... the highboys made in 77 were offered with the 351M or 400... 77 was the last year of the highboy. My highboy has a manufacturing date of 07/77. it came with the 400, C6, divoriced NP 205, Very interesting,My 76 origianly came with a married C-6 full time 205 set-up. I switched to the divorced 4 spd part time 205 combo.I have never seen a divorced auto trans set-up.Were does your T-case lever attach to? A special tailshaft on the C-6? >>>>>>>>>>>I heard somwhere that the highboys that had a stick shift came with a married 205 but have not checked to verify this so I cant say for sure. I used to have a 75.That is were I got the divorced 4spd 205 combo for my 76. The 75 also had a closed knucle drum brake 44 in it.I originaly bought my 76 for it's open knuckle disc brake 44 front end after tearing the spindle bolts out of the closed knuckle front end one too many times.After close inspection I realized the thrashed 76 was actually in better shape than my 75 so I combined the two trucks and a doors,a fender and a bed from four other trucks on the 76 frame to ctreate my mongrel Hi-Boy. I know it is pretty sad when the parts truck is better than the one you are driving. Laters, Danny Ling ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.comSubject: Rear axle seals Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 12:45:03 -0500 Bill P. writes: >>I need to replace the seals on the rear axels of my 79 F150. These things are huge compared to normal car seals. I need to remove the bearings but it looks like pressing them off will damage them and they too will need to be replaced. Of course then I will need to replace the races as well. Is there a way to do this without damaging the bearings?<< I take it that you have the tapered roller bearings with the seal being outboard of the bearings!!!(not all are this way, believe me) If so, then, No you can't replace the seals unless you remove the bearings. You can reuse the bearings, but you're not supposed to reuse the "ring" that keeps it located, and I'm not sure you can pruchase the rings seperately. Gotchya there. If you don't have a good press, then take the axles to your favorite automotive machine shop and have them do the labor for you.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 12:11:29 -0600 From: Stu Varner Subject: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner I have been trying to locate the flimsy 3/4 inch diameter aluminum tube which is wrapped in a black paper tape that runs from the air cleaner (dry element) to the charcoal cannister on a 71 FE powered truck. They also used these on other models too. I have tried the Ford dealer and every other parts house and supplier in town and in the next burg up the road. No luck. I have tried the help section in the parts store and every other oddball place I could think of. I called Mustang suppliers, Obsolete parts dealers and notta. If anyone has seen this for sale please let me know ASAP. I need a strectch of it atleast 4 feet long. Thanks for any help. Stu Nuke GM! http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 11:10:06 -0700 From: "Kiernan, Denny" Subject: Re: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner Stu Varner wrote: > > I have been trying to locate the flimsy 3/4 inch diameter aluminum tube > which is wrapped in a black paper tape > that runs from the air cleaner (dry element) to the charcoal cannister on a > 71 FE powered truck. What's the story on that tube? The one in my 72 is all split and useless. I've asked a couple mechanics if it didn't need to be replaced and they just said nhaaa it didnt matter. True? Denny '72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K ------------------------------ From: "kamook" Subject: Late 70's F250/High Boy Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 11:14:31 -0800 Hello Everyone, Well let me give you the run down, I have always been a Ford fan, and have been dreaming of a 70's Ford Pickup for quite sometime. Well when it came time to buy my first truck (I'm 17) my grandpa gave me a 81 Chevy C10, which does its job pretty well and has given me a new respect for Chevy's. But I still want a Ford 4x4. What I have decided to do is buy a mid to late 70 F150/250 4x4, and rebuild/restore it. Well anyway, I have some questions. First about highboys; what engines were put in them? I'm looking at hopefully a 360 or 351 for Gas Milege reasons. BTW, what kind of milege could I expect out of one of these bad boys with a mildly built engine (I'm looking at Crane Cam, Edelbrock carb w/ stock manifold, MSD ignition etc). What axles were used on these? and what tires could I fit stock? Were highboys only F250's or were there F150 highboys also? Just any information you could give me, suggestions etc would really help. Oh and does anyone have the HP/Torque ratings for these engines? Can't wait to get me a Ford! Sincerely Adam Houlne ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 13:34:13 -0600 From: Stu Varner Subject: Re: 3/4 inch aluminum tube from air cleaner Denny, The story on the tube is (IMHO) it is a usless piece that does not affect performance. BUT, Since I am doing a frame off restoration I need it for the look. Wish, Come on man. You mean to tell me you have never seen this on an older post '70 model Ford truck. The tube runs from the air cleaner on the passengers side to the charcoal canister which is positioned on the passengers side front. There is also a fuel line that runs back to the fuel tank and acts as a vapor recovery system. Antique emmisions! It is 3/4 inches in diameter and approx 3 1/2 to 4 feet long wrapped in a black paper type tape. Stu Nuke GM http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm >> I have been trying to locate the flimsy 3/4 inch diameter aluminum tube >> which is wrapped in a black paper tape >> that runs from the air cleaner (dry element) to the charcoal cannister on a >> 71 FE powered truck. > >What's the story on that tube? The one in my 72 is all split and >useless. I've asked a couple mechanics if it didn't need to be replaced >and they just said nhaaa it didnt matter. True? > ------------------------------ From: oldfords63 juno.comDate: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 16:24:12 -0600 Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop When you accelerate from a stop, the truck starts to move for a bit and CLUNK. =================================================================== Sometimes this is a result of movement in the suspension / driveshaft from "spring wrap". When you slow to a stop the pinion wants to go down. That pulls the yoke "out" on the splines. Sitting still it's held firmly by engine torque right where it is. Then when you accelerate, the pinion wants to go up, pushing the yoke "in" slightly. That sudden release and movement can cause that CLUNK you hear. Often this movement will be felt right under the seat . It's especially noticable on a high milage truck, due to a little extra wear on the splines resulting in a "step" in the teeth. When it jumps off the step you get a load Pop. Sometimes a little heavy grease on the yoke splines will alleviate this problem. This is even worse if you stop hard, which pulls the yoke out more, then take off hard which makes it want to go back in quickly. ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Luke Phillips" Subject: Re: 460 Crank Journals Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 15:47:31 CST Hey Burt, I think it is suppose to be that way I just don't know why. In the rebuild book I have it shows a picture of the crank journals in a 351C. The small hole is drilled off on it to. I want to know WHY,WHY,WHY??? Please Help!!! Thanks... Luke Phillips 67 F100 shortbed 240 I6 (460 in the works!) 2001 SuperNats Bound! >From: SHill48337 aol.com>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 460 Crank Journals >Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 01:01:38 EST > >I ><< Ok guys heres one. Why is the small oil hole in the first crank journal >(in > the block) drilled off center? When you put the bearing in the journal it > blocks off 95% of that small hole. All the rest of the small holes in the > journals line up perfectly. Is this done for a reason? If anyone knows > PLEASE let me know. Thanks >> > >I chamfered the hole back toward the center with a drill bit so the oil >would >not be blocked by the bearing. I figured this was just a problem with my >block. If this is drilled off center on purpose I am not aware of it. You >got me concerned. If anyone can shed some light on this please do. >Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 19:00:39 -0500 From: bill poudrier Subject: Re: Grease seal replacement 9" removable carrier. Don't think that the 8.8 existed in 79 at least in trucks. At 02:00 AM 3/23/00 -0500, you wrote: > >> Subject: Grease seal replacement >> >> I need to replace the seals on the rear axels >> of my 79 F150. These things are huge compared to >> normal car seals. I need to remove the bearings >> but it looks like pressing them off will damage them >> and they too will need to be replaced. Of course then >> I will need to replace the races as well. Is there a >> way to do this without damaging the bearings? > > Is this the 8.8" or 9" axle ? > > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > > ------------------------------ From: "Daniel Maxwell" Subject: Re: Kingpins Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 19:23:18 -0500 > From: "Jerry Splawn" > Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin > Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 11:46:33 -0600 > > I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck kingpin !!!!!! The > sucker just will not come out!! > Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out? > When I worked in an alignment shop a few life times ago, we put on penatrant oil, a little heat and an air hammer. We got them out every time, may take a bit though. Watch the threads on the grease caps, and don't forget the locking pin. ------------------------------ From: SLOW78FORD aol.comDate: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 21:49:06 EST Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop In a message dated 3/22/00 2:54:35 PM US Eastern Standard Time, draco pacifier.com writes:<< My truck does this. I have been trying, unsuccessfully, to find replacement transmission mounts. A friend just told me that this is common in '70's Ford pickups. His '79 did it and his friend's '72 did it. I asked another friend who told me his '71 Bronco did it too. >> My dad's 78 f150 does that and we found out that it was the drum brakes on one side sticking. We have tried everything to stop it, but nothing works so we just let it clunk. Brian 78 F150 351M (207,000 with no engine rebuild) ------------------------------ From: "Terry anderson" Subject: 1970 steering Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 19:44:25 PST just bought a 1970 f100 ranger..and boy is it all over the road!Is this just a steering box prob or a major alignment problem?Ireally dont know much but am willing to learn.Thanks terry967...new owner 1972 f100 ranger..360..and real new 1970 ranger owner ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #47 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 61-79-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. 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