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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:04:49 -0500 (EST) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:04:49 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #46 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Wed, 22 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 046 In This Issue: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin Restore Shop Sacramento Area Re: [61-79-list]kingpin Tire sizing (Stu?) Re: Tire sizing (Stu?) Electric Fuel pumps. Re: Tire sizing (Stu?) Re: Electric Fuel pumps. Re: FE problems Still no luck with Dads Dana 60 Re: Ford argent silver (gray) paint code merc parts FE problems A nagging question - D44 stub axles CLUNK when taking off from a stop Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop Re: spotting Hi Boys Clunk Re: spotting Hi Boys Re: spotting Hi Boys Re: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60 Re: spotting Hi Boys Re: [61-79-list]kingpin Re: [61-79-list]kingpin Re: A nagging question - D44 stub axles Re: spotting Hi Boys Re: spotting Hi Boys Re: spotting Hi Boys Re: spotting Hi Boys Springs/FE problems Re: FE problems 1/2 ton, rev roataion D44's not all created equal?? Re: off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have questi Re :Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit. Answers Grease seal replacement ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jerry Splawn" Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 11:46:33 -0600 I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck kingpin !!!!!! The sucker just will not come out!! Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out? ------------------------------ From: "Carver" Subject: Restore Shop Sacramento Area Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 22:01:37 -0800 I'm pursuing the idea of having my CrewCab restored. At the same time I am planning on spending MY time restoring another (non-Ford, sorry) vehicle with my son. He's more interested in the 'other' vehicle. Anyone have any recommendations or places to avoid in the Sacramento area? I live in Grass Valley, so anything within a 100 miles or so would be acceptable. By the time I take enough stuff off to 'fix' a few items. I'm close enough to a shell to go all the way. This truck is unique enough to treat to a restore. I'm not looking to have it done immediately, but I need to do my homework on shops before I start driving around and getting estimates. Recommendations of sequencing of stuff like, engine, body, interior, electrical, would be appreciated. Eventually a wish list will be generated and be foisted upon you all! Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:35:37 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin At 11:46 AM 3/22/00 -0600, you wrote: >I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck kingpin !!!!!! The >sucker just will not come out!! >Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out? Either a) heat the area up with a torch, this will usually do the trick. Get it as hot as you feel is safely possible. The kingpin sleeve is either brass (very likely) or vinyl (not very likely unless its been swapped recently). The different metals expand at different rates and this will usually free it up. b) remove the i-beam and have a machine shop with a hydraulic press get it out Drilling will take an eternity and pressing it out will only run about 30 bucks, maybe less. -Ken Payne ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 14:34:57 GMT Subject: Tire sizing (Stu?) Hey Stu, I finally measured the tire I have last night, thought I'd post this to the list so that everyone could see it and tell me how wrong I am ... Anyway the tire I have is an L78-15 Goodyear, it came with my truck as a spare so I have no idea how old it really is(but its really hard) I measured it to be about 28.5" tall and 9" wide (section width, not tread width), and I know its on a 15" rim ... a metric conversion on the 9" width shows a 228.6, not exactly a standard size there ... so here's what's close I think : 225/75/15 will get you a height of 28.25" and a width of just about 8.8" 235/75/15 is about 28.9" with a width of about 9.25" This is all just raw math and subject to actual sizing being slightly different, but it looks like the 235/75/15 will suit your needs pretty well and even leave the speedo fairly accurate... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:57:10 -0600 From: Stu Varner Subject: Re: Tire sizing (Stu?) Thanks Bill! I have been trying to find a conversion table for ancient tire sizes to modern sizes but have not had any luck. I had pretty well decided the 235 75x15's were going to be the best bet. Looked at some BFG m/t's yesterday in that size and I think they will be a very good tire for my needs. The BFG m/t is not exactly the tread design I am looking for but time is pinching me on this project. Thanks for all the help fellas. Stu Nuke GM! http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm At 02:34 PM 3/22/00 GMT, you wrote: > > >Hey Stu, I finally measured the tire I have last night, thought I'd post this >to the list so that everyone could see it and tell me how wrong I am ... > >Anyway the tire I have is an L78-15 Goodyear, it came with my truck as a spare >so I have no idea how old it really is(but its really hard) > >I measured it to be about 28.5" tall and 9" wide (section width, not tread width), >and I know its on a 15" rim ... > >a metric conversion on the 9" width shows a 228.6, not exactly a standard size >there ... so here's what's close I think : > >225/75/15 will get you a height of 28.25" and a width of just about 8.8" > >235/75/15 is about 28.9" with a width of about 9.25" > >This is all just raw math and subject to actual sizing being slightly different, >but it looks like the 235/75/15 will suit your needs pretty well and even leave >the speedo fairly accurate... > >Just my $.02 >wish > >96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L >73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish > >Ford Truck Enthusiasts >http://www.ford-trucks.com >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > > ------------------------------ From: "Jeff Hannon" Subject: Electric Fuel pumps. Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 07:51:27 -0800 Well, I'm about to replace the mechanical fuel pump for the 3rd time in 5 years on my 300-6. I'm sick of this thing always going out on me. And I haven't been buying the cheapo pumps either! This time I want to also put in an electric pump as a backup. For those people who have done this... whose electric pump did you buy? Jeff 79 F150, 3/4 gear 74 F250 in resto ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 09:59:05 -0600 From: Craig Cantrell Subject: Re: Tire sizing (Stu?) Stu, will this be of any help to you? http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hartcom.net/~ron/tires.html Stu Varner wrote: > Thanks Bill! I have been trying to find a conversion table for ancient > tire sizes to modern sizes but have not had any luck. I had pretty well > decided the 235 75x15's were going to be the best bet. Looked at some BFG > m/t's yesterday > in that size and I think they will be a very good tire for my needs. > > The BFG m/t is not exactly the tread design I am looking for but time is > pinching me on this project. > > Thanks for all the help fellas. > > Stu -- Craig -- 1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149 "Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle South Central Kansas Mustang Club See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc ------------------------------ From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell) Subject: Re: Electric Fuel pumps. Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 10:17:07 -0600 > Well, I'm about to replace the mechanical fuel pump for > the 3rd time in 5 years on my 300-6. I'm sick of this > thing always going out on me. And I haven't been buying > the cheapo pumps either! Jeff, I used to have problems with the mechanical pumps on my 65. I finally got fed up with the problems and went to an electric only. I cannot for the life of me remember what brand it is. I purchased it from the local parts store for probably around 30 to 40 dollars. I put the pump on my truck in 93 and haven't had any problems yet. I am planning on purchasing one that is built for more volume and higher performance but if I had to do it all over again I would still go electric. Paul Rozell 65 F100 460 C6 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:40:19 -0800 (PST) From: Dan Lee Subject: Re: FE problems Scott, It sounds like a valve seating problem to me. It is very difficult to see this with a compression test. However valves do not go bad suddenly. High humidity and condensation can be a problem in the spring. How is the weather where you are? A hotter coil will produce higher voltage. The chance of cross firing will increase with higher voltage. Check your wires in the dark. Dan Lee '53 F100 400C-4V >Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:11:13 -0800 >From: scott >Subject: FE problems >My 428 is giving me fits. >Started running a little rough at cruise,maybe not >hitting on all 8. >I checked out the ignition and got a new coil >(had a Pro-Master on sale at Summit and figured it >would not hurt)MSD wires, Auto lite plugs and a cap. >Rebuilt the AFB carb and paid extra attention to >blowing out all the passages. Ran a compression and >leak down test. Checked the vacum,steady as a rock. >Pulled the valve covers and checked all the rockers >and the pushrods. >Cranked it with the covers off and all the rockers >move up and down equally, so the cam seems to be OK >I had a similar problem years ago that was the intake >gaskets,so I changed them .No help. Checked for slop >in timing chain. Every thing checked out and it still >did not run right. On the way home the other day it >really started running bad like it lost a cylinder (or >more)completely.Got home and checked the vacuum. >It is fluctuating like crazy ,like I have a major leak >but with only 3 vacuum lines I quickly eliminated them >as a cause. It seems to be losing 3 cylinders .The >cylinders are not directly across from each other,next >to each other or next in the firing order. This engine >ain't even broke in for a Ford,only has about 70,00 >miles on it. >What is wrong the the darn thing, O'wise >ones............... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 11:49:58 EST Subject: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60 Well folks, Im still outta luck. Ive got locaters turned on all over the country and no luck with that axle. Let me refresh your memory. Im looking for the inner driverside axle for a heavy duty dana 60 front axle. Its gone obsolete on me, and the truck is on jack stands! Seems ford only used it for 4 yrs, and in that time, only the beefiest of F-350's got it. So my next question, is the only difference between a light duty 60 and a heavy duty 60 the u-joint? if so can I swap one for the other? I gotta find out soon, cuz Seein that truck just sit is just not a good thing. Afterall, this is the ford I cut my teeth on, and the one that also pulls Tweety out whenever I overestimate the abilities of 2wd on sand. Also ona side note, Weve had trouble lately with the brakes on the front coming apart. The ears on the spindle have spread apart over the years ( due to a lot of matierial being removed so we could fit a 15'' rim on it.) We tried shiming, but the shims just fall out. Our next experiment may involve a press to push them back together. If that doesnt work, Im trying to talk dad into new knuckles, and stepping up to a 16'' rim, and using the new Baja Kings from Mickey Thompson. They have an almost identical tread to the old maxi-tracks that he's always raving I should try to find for Tweety. But that is a lot of $$ so Im lookin for ideas. If any of you can help, please dont hold back!! Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" tryin to fix pops 75 F-250 4x4 "Big Toe" ------------------------------ From: "David J. Turner" Subject: Re: Ford argent silver (gray) paint code Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 12:36:50 -0500 MabelDate: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 18:25:38 -0600 From: Stu Varner Subject: Ford argent silver (gray) paint code Does anyone know what the Ford argent silver (gray) paint code is for bumpers? I am in need of this material in bulk, not in a spray can. Thanks! Stu Stu, Not sure about the exact number for bulk paint, but here is the number from a 13oz spray can of Ford Argent: F6AZ -19K207 - AA. The can also shows a "Ford internal Reference No. 014479" Hope this helps. Dave ------------------------------ From: "Mike" Subject: merc parts Date: (No, or invalid, date.) Anyone interested in converting their 65-66 Ford to a Merc? I have the front letters, support panel and fender nameplates. Will also look at a trade for 67-8 Merc hood letters. Mail me off list if interested. ------------------------------ From: BDIJXS aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 13:49:26 EST Subject: FE problems Scott, You may look at the fuel pump deal. Maybe put in a clear (plastic, not glass!) filter between the pump and the carb to see if it's really getting up there. I've had this exact kind of behavior before because of vapor lock, junk in fuel line.....and even a few times, a bad tank of gas. Everything would be running fine then not too long after a fill up, the "erratic" running would occur. Also, since you have a 428, I'm betting you have a dual exhaust. Maybe look back along the driver's side pipe and see if it comes anywhere near the fuel line running inside the frame rail..... These are the cheap and simple solutions, in addition to the plug wire guess. One other thing, do you have a good ground strap from you engine to the frame? Might try this as well.... CJ ------------------------------ From: BDIJXS aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 13:49:33 EST Subject: A nagging question - D44 stub axles Mark, You're OK with the axle grease. The 76 3/4-ton highboy 44HD spindles have about the same sized needle bearings in them. I've ran mine with axle grease for around 22 years now...the only problems came after some deep creek crossings and not enough maintenance. I also always thought it was odd that there wasn't some kind of bearing at the end of the axle tube. Just be glad your front axle has the seals back in the "pumpkin", rather than at the end like my old 69 44 had. Those things leaked constantly. Of course, if the "pumpkin seals" develop a leak, then swapping them out is a big deal..... Just turn up the stereo next time your hubs are locked on the freeway......this helps aleviate some of these worries.... By the way, where are you in "SW Washington". CJ ------------------------------ From: draco pacifier.com Subject: CLUNK when taking off from a stop Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 11:53:22 -0800 (PST) My truck does this. I have been trying, unsuccessfully, to find replacement transmission mounts. A friend just told me that this is common in '70's Ford pickups. His '79 did it and his friend's '72 did it. I asked another friend who told me his '71 Bronco did it too. What is this? Do your trucks all do this? Every one of these trucks have or had 9" rear ends, automatic transmissions, and are either 2WD or 4WD. Mark in Southwest Washington http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html -- '74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4 ------------------------------ From: Fordman66 webtv.net (Ford Mann) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 14:10:21 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop Have you checked he u-joints? Ted ------------------------------ From: draco pacifier.com Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 13:27:56 -0800 (PST) Ted wrote: > Have you checked he u-joints? OK, I wasn't specific enough. When you accelerate from a stop, the truck starts to move for a bit and CLUNK. I think that when you are stopped the automatic transmission is putting some pressure on the driveline taking up any looseness and gear backlash. Give it gas and there should be no clunk irregardless of the condition of the u-joints. Mark in Southwest Washington http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html -- '74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4 ------------------------------ From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling) Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 15:28:35 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys nope... the highboys made in 77 were offered with the 351M or 400... 77 was the last year of the highboy. My highboy has a manufacturing date of 07/77. it came with the 400, C6, divoriced NP 205, Dana 60 rear and the Dana HD44F front end (3550# front axle rating) I have the large external hubs on the front. I even have the typical highboy front crossmember that hangs below the front bumper. if anyone wants pics I can send em. (just Email me with the address to reply to) I heard somwhere that the highboys that had a stick shift came with a married 205 but have not checked to verify this so I cant say for sure. If you look at the frame rails of 78/79 F250 low boys you will see that above the front axle there is like 6 big "D" shaped holes punched out of the frame on each side. that is another way to tell a Highboy F250 from a non highboy Laters, Danny Ling ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 17:13:24 EST Subject: Clunk < you are stopped the automatic transmission is putting some pressure on the driveline taking up any looseness and gear backlash. Give it gas and there should be no clunk irregardless of the condition of the u-joints.>> Do you still feel all 3 shifts? is there a chance that it is goin from 1st to 2nd to quickly? Darrell Duggan 74 F-350 "Tweety" ------------------------------ From: Fordman66 webtv.net (Ford Mann)Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 16:53:06 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys But not all 77 F250's are Highboys. I had a 77 F250 that was not. They switched over some time late 77. ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 15:23:04 -0800 At the risk of sounding like a compleat idiot, what's a Highboy? Some kind of factory lift? -----Original Message----- From: Fordman66 webtv.net [mailto:Fordman66webtv.net]Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 2:53 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.comSubject: [61-79-list] Re: spotting Hi Boys But not all 77 F250's are Highboys. I had a 77 F250 that was not. They switched over some time late 77. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 15:32:26 -0800 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60 Isn't the 75 Dana 60 a closed knuckle design? I have had trouble in the past in finding parts for these axles. I would say if your having trouble locating parts for it, there is no better time than now to upgrade to a later model Dana 60 with disc brakes. Jason JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:> Well folks, Im still outta luck. Ive got locaters turned on all over the > country and no luck with that axle. Let me refresh your memory. Im looking > for the inner driverside axle for a heavy duty dana 60 front axle. Its gone > obsolete on me, and the truck is on jack stands! Seems ford only used it for > 4 yrs, and in that time, only the beefiest of F-350's got it. So my next > question, is the only difference between a light duty 60 and a heavy duty 60 > the u-joint? if so can I swap one for the other? I gotta find out soon, cuz > Seein that truck just sit is just not a good thing. Afterall, this is the > ford I cut my teeth on, and the one that also pulls Tweety out whenever I > overestimate the abilities of 2wd on sand. > Also ona side note, Weve had trouble lately with the brakes on the front > coming apart. The ears on the spindle have spread apart over the years ( due > to a lot of matierial being removed so we could fit a 15'' rim on it.) We > tried shiming, but the shims just fall out. Our next experiment may involve > a press to push them back together. If that doesnt work, Im trying to talk > dad into new knuckles, and stepping up to a 16'' rim, and using the new Baja > Kings from Mickey Thompson. They have an almost identical tread to the old > maxi-tracks that he's always raving I should try to find for Tweety. But > that is a lot of $$ so Im lookin for ideas. If any of you can help, please > dont hold back!! > > Darrell Duggan > 74 F-350 "Tweety" > tryin to fix pops 75 F-250 4x4 "Big Toe" > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: TBeeee aol.comDate: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 18:26:57 EST Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys Don: You still have that canned response for this one?? > At the risk of sounding like a compleat idiot, what's a Highboy? Some kind > of factory lift? Stock Man 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee ------------------------------ From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 16:35:58 -0800 > > I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck > kingpin !!!!!! The > sucker just will not come out!! > Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out? > As hard as the kingpin is I would rate the idea of trying to drill it out at having about a zero chance for success. Someone on the list came up with an idea for a bracket that would fit around the kingpin and hold a bottle jack against it and allow you to use the jack to press it out. In lieu of that you could take the I-beam out and either use the greater access to pound it out or take it to a machine shop that has a press and pay them to press it out. If your are going with bronze bushings on the kingpin you should take it to a machine shop anyway so they can ream the bushings to the correct size. Tom H ------------------------------ From: WEDIVE247 aol.comDate: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 19:55:58 EST Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin In a message dated 3/22/2000 0:48:47 AM EST, jdsplawn tcac.net writes:<< I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck kingpin !!!!!! The sucker just will not come out!! Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out? >> They really aren't much fun thats for sure !!! Heat & beat ... ------------------------------ From: "Gary R. Peters" Subject: Re: A nagging question - D44 stub axles Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:11:56 -0800 The axles don't really turn all that fast so the bearings, Needle bearings, with ordinary wheel bearing grease in them will handle it fine. The axle tends to center itself as it rotates so there is very little pressure on those bearings, all they do is steady it. The real work is done at the ends :-) Make sure you keep good seals (3 or 4 separate parts including nylon thrust washer, felt seal and "O" ring etc.) at the inboard end of the spindles and they will hold up well. If you do a lot of water crossings or mud bashing they they need to be tended to often. I discovered that they need bi-annual care even when only driven on the streets due to mud puddles etc...2 hrs work, twice/year saves about $300 per side when the bearings die.........They take the hub, spindle, rotor and sometimes the caliper as well when they go :-( -- 78 Bronco Loving, Michigan Pot Hole Jumping Gary -- > I know the wheel's load is carried by the spindle, but this bearing > looked awful light to do it's job which is basically to hold the outer > end of the axle assemblies in position. There is nothing in the axle > tube to hold the end of the axles so it is all done by this bearing. > This makes sense because it would bind if it were held on both sides > of the u-joints. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 17:24:23 -0800 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys >Don: You still have that canned response for this one?? > >> At the risk of sounding like a compleat idiot, what's a Highboy? Some kind >> of factory lift? > >Stock Man He he, you know me to well ;) None of that canned spam this time. From the beginning..... The earth was formed.... jump ahead a few years. In the late 1950's Ford was looking at making a Factory 4 wheel drive. Previous to this back to the 1910's all Fords were converted by several different companies such as Marmon-Harrington (?sp) and Napco. Why sent new trucks (and cars for that fact) out of house if there is such a need for 4x4. Why not make them in house. So they did. The first factory Ford 4x4 was in 1959. Basically all they did was add a driven front axle to the 2 wheel drive and put a transfer case after the transmission. Instead of redesigning the complete front end to compensate for the change in wheel position they just added a block under the rear springs between the springs and the axle. You see the front solid I beam on the two wheel drive drops down about 3 inches from the wheel center while the axle shafts are even with the wheel center. If you really wanted to you could take any 2 wheel drive from 59-64 and add a driven front axle. It will bolt right in as the spring width is right. Yes some earlier years will also work but I am only focusing in factory 4x4 years. The only problem will be the front end will sit higher. That's where the rear block came in. It was this way on the F-100 and F-250. Lets move ahead again to 1965. Ford redesigned the F-100 with twin I beams in mind for the 2 wheel drive, using coils for the front to soften the ride and make the truck less utilitarian. On the 4x4 they didn't have a twin I beam driven axle( that came in 1980) but they decided to use the coils anyway so they still would have the softer ride but the new design also allowed the front end to nose down just a little. This was more noticeable with the changes in 1973. And that is where I am going to leave the F-100 and just focus on the F-250 and F-350. For the 65-66 model years the 4 wheel drives use the old style cab, frame and suspension design. This kept the extra height over their 2 wheel drive counterparts. 1967 came along and the cab and frame design began to match the light duty trucks but F-250's and up were still considered Heavy duty work trucks. The front leaves maintained a high leaf count (8-9) leafs and had a positive arch. Give or take a few design changes over the years this continued until 1970's when fuel and mileage standards began to really put hurt on the Manufactures of big trucks. The other factor was more every day people were buying the stronger trucks. So in order to make the ride better and save a few arrow dynamic points the front end was changed again. The number of leaves in the front springs was reduced for a softer ride and maintained a negative arch( meaning they bend up in the middle instead of up at the ends). This forced the front end down for better airflow and put the truck at about the same ride height as the 2 wheel drive trucks ( the end of the Hi-boy, High Boy, Highboy, High-boy, what ever you want to call it). As far as I know Highboy was not a factory term used for the trucks and there was no Highboy option. The 4 wheel drive trucks just sat higher out of necessity and design. As I have asked in the past if anyone has and old order form from the 60's or 70's where you could order the Highboy option I would like to see it. How did I do Thom? Oh and Thom by the way your blue 67 on your web page is backwards. The front pumpkin is on the wrong side ;) Laters -- Don Grossman duckdon mac.com43 GPW 63 F-100 4x4 77 F250 99 Contour ------------------------------ From: TBeeee aol.comDate: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:29:53 EST Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys Don: Excellent response on the Highboy issues and BTW--You my friend are very, very perceptive! I flipped the image because I wanted the two trucks turned inward. > How did I do Thom? Oh and Thom by the way your blue 67 on your web > page is backwards. The front pumpkin is on the wrong side ;) Stock Man 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 17:39:00 -0800 Wow, I don't feel so dumb after all (although there are those who would differ). Thanks for the explanation! -----Original Message----- From: Don Grossman [mailto:duckdon mac.com]Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 5:24 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.comSubject: [61-79-list] Re: spotting Hi Boys >Don: You still have that canned response for this one?? > >> At the risk of sounding like a compleat idiot, what's a Highboy? Some kind >> of factory lift? > >Stock Man He he, you know me to well ;) None of that canned spam this time. From the beginning..... The earth was formed.... jump ahead a few years. ------------------------------ From: ClemmerMustangJC aol.comDate: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:40:47 EST Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys hi boys are great but can we move on? joking ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 17:46:07 -0800 From: scott Subject: Springs/FE problems '>>>>>>>65 F250 4X4 with the original heavy springs, and would like find some good quality but not gaudy looking or overpriced shocks. I'd prefer they just look like stock shocks, I have KYB shocks on my 76.They are a quality shock amd they don't have boots on them like a lot of other aftetrmarket shocks.If you peel the stickers off and paint them,they would look stock. >>>>>>>> I've considered taking some leaves out, has anyone experimented with this? I disassembled mine,wire buffed all rust out,painted,greased and reassembled. also replaced the bushings and I am amazed at how much better it rides. >>>>>>>>Re: FE problems One thought that comes to my mind is wires - plug wires. There not mention on in you parts list and can cause misses. I wouldnt really figure on 3 of em,but hey, Ive seen weirder stuff happen! They are about 6 months old and seem to working fine,but at this point it can't hurt to check them with my meter.Can't see wires messing up the vacum tho....... >>>>>>>>>>> You can also check out the carb & fuel circuit. Went through the carb(twice)and the stock fuel pump checks out and I also have a electric pump. >>>>>>>>>>> Everything else you've mentioned are possibilities. the fluctuating vacume readings could also be a bad valve (from what I've read, never had one though I was thinking a bad valve would show up on a compression test tho..... >>>>>>>>>>>- well a broken valve spring once which read the same). Got the valve covers off as I write this so I'll check that out.They all look OK at a glance. >>>>>>>>>>Hope the hints help (they didnt hurt me a bit ;-). Of course they do.Thanks >>>>>>>>>Come to find out,three of the wires were missing the clips (inside the boot)that clips on to the spark plug. I'm not surprised,but mine used to run OK with my current wires so I think alll parts are there.Going to check the wires tho...... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:40:58 -0500 From: bill poudrier Subject: Re: FE problems Are the 3 possibly 4 cylinders on the same side of the carb? I assume you have a dual plane manifold. Sometimes some crap gets into one of the jets and make it lose some cylinders. Next check the points, assuming you have them. They could be very close (small gap) and if the shaft is out at all then they will open for 5 and not for the other 3. Just raving, hope it helps. Bill At 07:11 PM 3/21/00 -0800, you wrote: >My 428 is giving me fits. >Started running a little rough at cruise,maybe not hitting on all 8. >I checked out the ignition and got a new coil >(had a Pro-Master on sale at Summit and figured it would not hurt) >MSD wires, Auto lite plugs and a cap. >Rebuilt the AFB carb and paid extra attention to blowing out all >the passages. >Ran a compression and leak down test. >Checked the vacum,steady as a rock. >Pulled the valve covers and checked all the rockers and the pushrods. >Cranked it with the covers off and all the rockers move up and down >equally, >so the cam seems to be OK >I had a similar problem years ago that was the intake gaskets,so I >changed them .No help. >Checked for slop in timing chain. >Every thing checked out and it still did not run right. >On the way home the other day it really started running bad like it lost >a cylinder (or more)completely.Got home and checked the vacuum. >It is fluctuating like crazy ,like I have a major leak but with only 3 >vacuum lines I quickly eliminated them as a cause. >It seems to be losing 3 cylinders .The cylinders are not directly >across from each other,next to each other or next in the firing order. >This engine ain't even broke in for a Ford,only has about 70,00 miles on >it. > >What is wrong the the darn thing, O'wise ones............... >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:45:24 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: 1/2 ton, rev roataion D44's not all created equal?? Hey all Was messing around wiht a couple of my Dana 44's and found one to have much smaller axle tubes than the other three. I have several 78 and 79 front Bronco axles, but the one with smaller tubes was one I bought used many years ago. Obviously, it has to be a 78 or 79, right. What do you think it came out of? The radius arm castings (mounts) are smaller also. OX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:54:43 -0600 Subject: Re: off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have questi From: Brett L Habben Jeff, Is your dist vacuum advance working properly? Also stick an accurate vacuum gauge on the engine and monitor what the readings are as you drive it around. If the carb is going into power mode and opening the power valve then it will richen the mixture and your mileage will suffer. It should not be doing this at cruising speed on a level surface. Carbs like Holley's, AFB's, and QJet's have available parts to adjust when the carb goes into power mode and how much additional fuel to deliver. Brett Super75cab >4. Gas was $2/gallon even in Mexico and my new 400 still doesn't have the >table manners it might. Averaged 8 mpg and, while this isn't bad >considering the load, it's hell to sit behind a 2bbl carb and >low-compression motor and get mileage like I actually have huevos under the >hood. I have the 3.50 rear end, 33" tires, and am at 2500-2700 rpms at 60 >mph. A knowledgeable friend says re-jetting the carb should help, as I am >probably running lean at high(er) rpms. Local junkyards offered to sell me >entire carbs, but can I pick up needles reasonably (I suspect this rules out >Ford) anywhere else? >Jeff ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:38:15 -0600 Subject: Re :Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit. From: Brett L Habben Another thing to take a look at is the leaf pack itself. Are the leaves rusted together into one mass? Sometimes just disassembling them and either greasing them or replacing the plastic sliders (if equipped) can make a world of difference. I've also pulled leaves out to soften the ride. I had a Rancho spring kit on one truck that was only tolerable fully loaded. I'd pull the second leaf out all around when I wasn't needing to carry a heavy load. As far as the knuckle goes they are not all that bad to repair. If yours is like the ones I've worked on the trickiest part is the preload on the pivot bearings. I've been lucky to just replace the bearings and races with identical brand pieces and just put it back together again and drive it. If yours has the jeep sized bells JC Whitney has the deal of the century at less than $10 for both sides wipers and seals. In a crisis I paid $49 a side locally. Another thing to look at is the condition of the axle housing bells that the wipers and seals ride on. They can get severly scarred up and will tear up the new seals. I've heard of people grinding/sanding smooth the damage to give the seals a smoother surface to seal against. Also, putting axle grease in the knuckle instead of gear lube is a common backyard remedy to drippy seals. Better than dry knuckles. Brett Super75cab >I've considered taking some leaves out, has anyone experimented with this? >My drivers side knuckle leaks bad enough that it won't hold 90 wt, >temporarily I'm going to put a mixture of front end grease and 140 wt gear >oil in it. Does anyone know where to get a knuckle rebuild kit for it? >From: ballingr bootheel.net________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: JefriHansn aol.comDate: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:57:08 EST Subject: Answers Got some answers today on a little problem I've been having with the truck (79 F-150 4WD with '69 429) lately. What do you think? Found a guy who builds big block Ford streetable strip machines and he gave a twice/thrice over. Ever since I plumbed in the PVC system have had a heck of a time getting a stable idle - idles 500 this trip - 1000 the next. Shut it off - diesels this time - fires and sends the motor back spnning the next. 2500 rmps in 2nd and 3rd draws 17 on the vacume gage - 2500 in 4th draws 8-10 (thats 65-68 mph - the motor isn't dragging with the 4:11's - 33 inch tires) Climbed the motor over with a can of ether - no vacume leaks anywhere. If I say it here - I've said it a million times - I'm bassackwards - can listen to a person describe problems with thier modern era Ford and pinpoint the problem censor in an EFI system - but don't know zip point schitt about a carborator. Kid today taught me bunchs in the span of 5 minutes - says thats about how easy they are. Told/showed me the reason I can turn these idle mixture screws ALL the way in - and it'll sit there just a thumping away, only slightly slow in idle - no dieing here. Showed me the problem lies in the fact the engine is suffocating with the holley 600cfm 4150 it has on it. Throttle venturies already partially open just to idle. All my idle adjustment is with the throttle set screw - not the mixture screws. So - pluming in the PVC system - it's getting more air - via the vacume on the PVC line - but this has caused less air to mix with the gas in the carb. Hince - erratic idle. Said I could do one of too things - either get a 750 carb, or take the carb off , the venturies out, and drill holes in the venturies. The latter would give more seat of the pants torque, but less highway power. Told him it already has too much of each - 2nd and 3rd gear torque and the power to constantly break things. What do you think? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:07:05 -0500 From: bill poudrier Subject: Grease seal replacement I need to replace the seals on the rear axels of my 79 F150. These things are huge compared to normal car seals. I need to remove the bearings but it looks like pressing them off will damage them and they too will need to be replaced. Of course then I will need to replace the races as well. Is there a way to do this without damaging the bearings? Bill ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #46 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 61-79-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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