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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:04:49 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:04:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #46
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 22 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 046

In This Issue:
Re: [61-79-list]kingpin
Restore Shop Sacramento Area
Re: [61-79-list]kingpin
Tire sizing (Stu?)
Re: Tire sizing (Stu?)
Electric Fuel pumps.
Re: Tire sizing (Stu?)
Re: Electric Fuel pumps.
Re: FE problems
Still no luck with Dads Dana 60
Re: Ford argent silver (gray) paint code
merc parts
FE problems
A nagging question - D44 stub axles
CLUNK when taking off from a stop
Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop
Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop
Re: spotting Hi Boys
Clunk
Re: spotting Hi Boys
Re: spotting Hi Boys
Re: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60
Re: spotting Hi Boys
Re: [61-79-list]kingpin
Re: [61-79-list]kingpin
Re: A nagging question - D44 stub axles
Re: spotting Hi Boys
Re: spotting Hi Boys
Re: spotting Hi Boys
Re: spotting Hi Boys
Springs/FE problems
Re: FE problems
1/2 ton, rev roataion D44's not all created equal??
Re: off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have questi
Re :Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit.
Answers
Grease seal replacement

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jerry Splawn" tcac.net>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 11:46:33 -0600

I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck kingpin !!!!!! The
sucker just will not come out!!
Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out?


------------------------------

From: "Carver" ncwebsurfer.com>
Subject: Restore Shop Sacramento Area
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 22:01:37 -0800

I'm pursuing the idea of having my CrewCab restored.
At the same time I am planning on spending MY time
restoring another (non-Ford, sorry) vehicle with my
son. He's more interested in the 'other' vehicle.

Anyone have any recommendations or places to avoid
in the Sacramento area? I live in Grass Valley, so
anything within a 100 miles or so would be acceptable.

By the time I take enough stuff off to 'fix' a few
items. I'm close enough to a shell to go all the way.
This truck is unique enough to treat to a restore.

I'm not looking to have it done immediately, but
I need to do my homework on shops before I start
driving around and getting estimates.

Recommendations of sequencing of stuff like, engine,
body, interior, electrical, would be appreciated.
Eventually a wish list will be generated and be
foisted upon you all!

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:35:37 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin

At 11:46 AM 3/22/00 -0600, you wrote:
>I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck kingpin !!!!!! The
>sucker just will not come out!!
>Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out?

Either

a) heat the area up with a torch, this will usually do the trick.
Get it as hot as you feel is safely possible. The kingpin
sleeve is either brass (very likely) or vinyl (not very likely
unless its been swapped recently). The different metals
expand at different rates and this will usually free it up.

b) remove the i-beam and have a machine shop with a hydraulic
press get it out

Drilling will take an eternity and pressing it out will only
run about 30 bucks, maybe less.

-Ken Payne


------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 14:34:57 GMT
Subject: Tire sizing (Stu?)



Hey Stu, I finally measured the tire I have last night, thought I'd post this
to the list so that everyone could see it and tell me how wrong I am ...

Anyway the tire I have is an L78-15 Goodyear, it came with my truck as a spare
so I have no idea how old it really is(but its really hard)

I measured it to be about 28.5" tall and 9" wide (section width, not tread width),
and I know its on a 15" rim ...

a metric conversion on the 9" width shows a 228.6, not exactly a standard size
there ... so here's what's close I think :

225/75/15 will get you a height of 28.25" and a width of just about 8.8"

235/75/15 is about 28.9" with a width of about 9.25"

This is all just raw math and subject to actual sizing being slightly different,
but it looks like the 235/75/15 will suit your needs pretty well and even leave
the speedo fairly accurate...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:57:10 -0600
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Tire sizing (Stu?)

Thanks Bill! I have been trying to find a conversion table for ancient
tire sizes to modern sizes but have not had any luck. I had pretty well
decided the 235 75x15's were going to be the best bet. Looked at some BFG
m/t's yesterday
in that size and I think they will be a very good tire for my needs.

The BFG m/t is not exactly the tread design I am looking for but time is
pinching me on this project.

Thanks for all the help fellas.

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm


At 02:34 PM 3/22/00 GMT, you wrote:
>
>
>Hey Stu, I finally measured the tire I have last night, thought I'd post this
>to the list so that everyone could see it and tell me how wrong I am ...
>
>Anyway the tire I have is an L78-15 Goodyear, it came with my truck as a
spare
>so I have no idea how old it really is(but its really hard)
>
>I measured it to be about 28.5" tall and 9" wide (section width, not tread
width),
>and I know its on a 15" rim ...
>
>a metric conversion on the 9" width shows a 228.6, not exactly a standard
size
>there ... so here's what's close I think :
>
>225/75/15 will get you a height of 28.25" and a width of just about 8.8"
>
>235/75/15 is about 28.9" with a width of about 9.25"
>
>This is all just raw math and subject to actual sizing being slightly
different,
>but it looks like the 235/75/15 will suit your needs pretty well and even
leave
>the speedo fairly accurate...
>
>Just my $.02
>wish
>
>96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
>73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
>Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>http://www.ford-trucks.com
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>
>

------------------------------

From: "Jeff Hannon" aha.com>
Subject: Electric Fuel pumps.
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 07:51:27 -0800


Well, I'm about to replace the mechanical fuel pump for
the 3rd time in 5 years on my 300-6. I'm sick of this
thing always going out on me. And I haven't been buying
the cheapo pumps either!

This time I want to also put in an electric pump as a
backup. For those people who have done this... whose
electric pump did you buy?


Jeff

79 F150, 3/4 gear
74 F250 in resto


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 09:59:05 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Tire sizing (Stu?)

Stu, will this be of any help to you?

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hartcom.net/~ron/tires.html

Stu Varner wrote:

> Thanks Bill! I have been trying to find a conversion table for ancient
> tire sizes to modern sizes but have not had any luck. I had pretty well
> decided the 235 75x15's were going to be the best bet. Looked at some BFG
> m/t's yesterday
> in that size and I think they will be a very good tire for my needs.
>
> The BFG m/t is not exactly the tread design I am looking for but time is
> pinching me on this project.
>
> Thanks for all the help fellas.
>
> Stu

--
Craig
--
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc



------------------------------

From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: Electric Fuel pumps.
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 10:17:07 -0600


> Well, I'm about to replace the mechanical fuel pump for
> the 3rd time in 5 years on my 300-6. I'm sick of this
> thing always going out on me. And I haven't been buying
> the cheapo pumps either!

Jeff,
I used to have problems with the mechanical pumps on my 65. I finally got
fed up with the problems and went to an electric only. I cannot for the life
of me remember what brand it is. I purchased it from the local parts store
for probably around 30 to 40 dollars. I put the pump on my truck in 93 and
haven't had any problems yet. I am planning on purchasing one that is built
for more volume and higher performance but if I had to do it all over again
I would still go electric.


Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 08:40:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FE problems

Scott,

It sounds like a valve seating problem to me. It is
very difficult to see this with a compression test.
However valves do not go bad suddenly. High humidity
and condensation can be a problem in the spring. How
is the weather where you are? A hotter coil will
produce higher voltage. The chance of cross firing
will increase with higher voltage. Check your wires in
the dark.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

>Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:11:13 -0800
>From: scott ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: FE problems

>My 428 is giving me fits.
>Started running a little rough at cruise,maybe not
>hitting on all 8.
>I checked out the ignition and got a new coil
>(had a Pro-Master on sale at Summit and figured it
>would not hurt)MSD wires, Auto lite plugs and a cap.
>Rebuilt the AFB carb and paid extra attention to
>blowing out all the passages. Ran a compression and
>leak down test. Checked the vacum,steady as a rock.
>Pulled the valve covers and checked all the rockers
>and the pushrods.
>Cranked it with the covers off and all the rockers
>move up and down equally, so the cam seems to be OK
>I had a similar problem years ago that was the intake
>gaskets,so I changed them .No help. Checked for slop
>in timing chain. Every thing checked out and it still
>did not run right. On the way home the other day it
>really started running bad like it lost a cylinder
(or >more)completely.Got home and checked the vacuum.
>It is fluctuating like crazy ,like I have a major
leak >but with only 3 vacuum lines I quickly
eliminated them >as a cause. It seems to be losing 3
cylinders .The >cylinders are not directly across from
each other,next >to each other or next in the firing
order. This engine >ain't even broke in for a
Ford,only has about 70,00 >miles on it.

>What is wrong the the darn thing, O'wise
>ones...............




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 11:49:58 EST
Subject: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60

Well folks, Im still outta luck. Ive got locaters turned on all over the
country and no luck with that axle. Let me refresh your memory. Im looking
for the inner driverside axle for a heavy duty dana 60 front axle. Its gone
obsolete on me, and the truck is on jack stands! Seems ford only used it for
4 yrs, and in that time, only the beefiest of F-350's got it. So my next
question, is the only difference between a light duty 60 and a heavy duty 60
the u-joint? if so can I swap one for the other? I gotta find out soon, cuz
Seein that truck just sit is just not a good thing. Afterall, this is the
ford I cut my teeth on, and the one that also pulls Tweety out whenever I
overestimate the abilities of 2wd on sand.
Also ona side note, Weve had trouble lately with the brakes on the front
coming apart. The ears on the spindle have spread apart over the years ( due
to a lot of matierial being removed so we could fit a 15'' rim on it.) We
tried shiming, but the shims just fall out. Our next experiment may involve
a press to push them back together. If that doesnt work, Im trying to talk
dad into new knuckles, and stepping up to a 16'' rim, and using the new Baja
Kings from Mickey Thompson. They have an almost identical tread to the old
maxi-tracks that he's always raving I should try to find for Tweety. But
that is a lot of $$ so Im lookin for ideas. If any of you can help, please
dont hold back!!

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
tryin to fix pops 75 F-250 4x4 "Big Toe"

------------------------------

From: "David J. Turner" esn.net>
Subject: Re: Ford argent silver (gray) paint code
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 12:36:50 -0500

MabelDate: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 18:25:38 -0600
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Ford argent silver (gray) paint code

Does anyone know what the Ford argent silver (gray) paint code is
for bumpers? I am in need of this material in bulk, not in a spray can.

Thanks!

Stu

Stu, Not sure about the exact number for bulk paint, but here is the number
from a 13oz spray can of Ford Argent: F6AZ -19K207 - AA. The can also
shows a "Ford internal Reference No. 014479"
Hope this helps.

Dave


------------------------------

From: "Mike" connect.ab.ca>
Subject: merc parts
Date: (No, or invalid, date.)

Anyone interested in converting their 65-66 Ford to a Merc? I have the front letters, support panel and fender nameplates. Will also look at a trade for 67-8 Merc hood letters. Mail me off list if interested.


------------------------------

From: BDIJXS aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 13:49:26 EST
Subject: FE problems

Scott,

You may look at the fuel pump deal. Maybe put in a clear (plastic, not
glass!) filter between the pump and the carb to see if it's really getting up
there. I've had this exact kind of behavior before because of vapor lock,
junk in fuel line.....and even a few times, a bad tank of gas.

Everything would be running fine then not too long after a fill up, the
"erratic" running would occur.

Also, since you have a 428, I'm betting you have a dual exhaust. Maybe look
back along the driver's side pipe and see if it comes anywhere near the fuel
line running inside the frame rail.....

These are the cheap and simple solutions, in addition to the plug wire guess.
One other thing, do you have a good ground strap from you engine to the
frame? Might try this as well....

CJ


------------------------------

From: BDIJXS aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 13:49:33 EST
Subject: A nagging question - D44 stub axles

Mark,

You're OK with the axle grease. The 76 3/4-ton highboy 44HD spindles have
about the same sized needle bearings in them. I've ran mine with axle grease
for around 22 years now...the only problems came after some deep creek
crossings and not enough maintenance.

I also always thought it was odd that there wasn't some kind of bearing at
the end of the axle tube. Just be glad your front axle has the seals back in
the "pumpkin", rather than at the end like my old 69 44 had. Those things
leaked constantly.

Of course, if the "pumpkin seals" develop a leak, then swapping them out is a
big deal.....

Just turn up the stereo next time your hubs are locked on the
freeway......this helps aleviate some of these worries....

By the way, where are you in "SW Washington".

CJ

------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: CLUNK when taking off from a stop
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 11:53:22 -0800 (PST)

My truck does this. I have been trying, unsuccessfully, to find
replacement transmission mounts. A friend just told me that this
is common in '70's Ford pickups. His '79 did it and his friend's
'72 did it. I asked another friend who told me his '71 Bronco
did it too.

What is this? Do your trucks all do this? Every one of these
trucks have or had 9" rear ends, automatic transmissions, and
are either 2WD or 4WD.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4


------------------------------

From: Fordman66 webtv.net (Ford Mann)
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 14:10:21 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop

Have you checked he u-joints?

Ted


------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: CLUNK when taking off from a stop
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 13:27:56 -0800 (PST)

Ted wrote:
> Have you checked he u-joints?

OK, I wasn't specific enough. When you accelerate from a stop,
the truck starts to move for a bit and CLUNK. I think that when
you are stopped the automatic transmission is putting some
pressure on the driveline taking up any looseness and gear
backlash. Give it gas and there should be no clunk irregardless
of the condition of the u-joints.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4


------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 15:28:35 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys

nope... the highboys made in 77 were offered with the 351M or 400... 77
was the last year of the highboy. My highboy has a manufacturing date of
07/77. it came with the 400, C6, divoriced NP 205, Dana 60 rear and the
Dana HD44F front end (3550# front axle rating) I have the large external
hubs on the front. I even have the typical highboy front crossmember
that hangs below the front bumper. if anyone wants pics I can send em.
(just Email me with the address to reply to) I heard somwhere that the
highboys that had a stick shift came with a married 205 but have not
checked to verify this so I cant say for sure. If you look at the frame
rails of 78/79 F250 low boys you will see that above the front axle
there is like 6 big "D" shaped holes punched out of the frame on each
side. that is another way to tell a Highboy F250 from a non highboy

Laters, Danny Ling


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 17:13:24 EST
Subject: Clunk

< the truck starts to move for a bit and CLUNK. I think that when
you are stopped the automatic transmission is putting some
pressure on the driveline taking up any looseness and gear
backlash. Give it gas and there should be no clunk irregardless
of the condition of the u-joints.>>

Do you still feel all 3 shifts? is there a chance that it is goin from 1st to 2nd to quickly?

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"

------------------------------

From: Fordman66webtv.net (Ford Mann)
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 16:53:06 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys

But not all 77 F250's are Highboys. I had a 77 F250 that was not. They
switched over some time late 77.


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 15:23:04 -0800

At the risk of sounding like a compleat idiot, what's a Highboy? Some kind
of factory lift?

-----Original Message-----
From: Fordman66webtv.net [mailto:Fordman66webtv.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 2:53 PM
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: spotting Hi Boys


But not all 77 F250's are Highboys. I had a 77 F250 that was not. They
switched over some time late 77.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 15:32:26 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Still no luck with Dads Dana 60

Isn't the 75 Dana 60 a closed knuckle design? I have had trouble in the past in
finding parts for these axles. I would say if your having trouble locating parts
for it, there is no better time than now to upgrade to a later model Dana 60 with
disc brakes.
Jason

JUMPINFORDaol.com wrote:

> Well folks, Im still outta luck. Ive got locaters turned on all over the
> country and no luck with that axle. Let me refresh your memory. Im looking
> for the inner driverside axle for a heavy duty dana 60 front axle. Its gone
> obsolete on me, and the truck is on jack stands! Seems ford only used it for
> 4 yrs, and in that time, only the beefiest of F-350's got it. So my next
> question, is the only difference between a light duty 60 and a heavy duty 60
> the u-joint? if so can I swap one for the other? I gotta find out soon, cuz
> Seein that truck just sit is just not a good thing. Afterall, this is the
> ford I cut my teeth on, and the one that also pulls Tweety out whenever I
> overestimate the abilities of 2wd on sand.
> Also ona side note, Weve had trouble lately with the brakes on the front
> coming apart. The ears on the spindle have spread apart over the years ( due
> to a lot of matierial being removed so we could fit a 15'' rim on it.) We
> tried shiming, but the shims just fall out. Our next experiment may involve
> a press to push them back together. If that doesnt work, Im trying to talk
> dad into new knuckles, and stepping up to a 16'' rim, and using the new Baja
> Kings from Mickey Thompson. They have an almost identical tread to the old
> maxi-tracks that he's always raving I should try to find for Tweety. But
> that is a lot of $$ so Im lookin for ideas. If any of you can help, please
> dont hold back!!
>
> Darrell Duggan
> 74 F-350 "Tweety"
> tryin to fix pops 75 F-250 4x4 "Big Toe"
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.




------------------------------

From: TBeeeeaol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 18:26:57 EST
Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys

Don: You still have that canned response for this one??

> At the risk of sounding like a compleat idiot, what's a Highboy? Some kind
> of factory lift?

Stock Man
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 16:35:58 -0800


>
> I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck
> kingpin !!!!!! The
> sucker just will not come out!!
> Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out?
>

As hard as the kingpin is I would rate the idea of trying to drill it out at
having about a zero chance for success. Someone on the list came up with an
idea for a bracket that would fit around the kingpin and hold a bottle jack
against it and allow you to use the jack to press it out. In lieu of that
you could take the I-beam out and either use the greater access to pound it
out or take it to a machine shop that has a press and pay them to press it
out. If your are going with bronze bushings on the kingpin you should take
it to a machine shop anyway so they can ream the bushings to the correct
size.

Tom H

------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247aol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 19:55:58 EST
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]kingpin

In a message dated 3/22/2000 0:48:47 AM EST, jdsplawntcac.net writes:

<< I have a 1971 F-100. Any ideas on how to remove a stuck kingpin !!!!!! The
sucker just will not come out!!
Am I gonna have to remove the I-beam and drill the thing out?
>>

They really aren't much fun thats for sure !!! Heat & beat ...

------------------------------

From: "Gary R. Peters" lni.net>
Subject: Re: A nagging question - D44 stub axles
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:11:56 -0800

The axles don't really turn all that fast so the bearings, Needle bearings,
with ordinary wheel bearing grease in them will handle it fine. The axle
tends to center itself as it rotates so there is very little pressure on
those bearings, all they do is steady it. The real work is done at the ends
:-) Make sure you keep good seals (3 or 4 separate parts including nylon
thrust washer, felt seal and "O" ring etc.) at the inboard end of the
spindles and they will hold up well. If you do a lot of water crossings or
mud bashing they they need to be tended to often.

I discovered that they need bi-annual care even when only driven on the
streets due to mud puddles etc...2 hrs work, twice/year saves about $300
per side when the bearings die.........They take the hub, spindle, rotor
and sometimes the caliper as well when they go :-(

--
78 Bronco Loving, Michigan
Pot Hole Jumping Gary
--

> I know the wheel's load is carried by the spindle, but this bearing
> looked awful light to do it's job which is basically to hold the outer
> end of the axle assemblies in position. There is nothing in the axle
> tube to hold the end of the axles so it is all done by this bearing.
> This makes sense because it would bind if it were held on both sides
> of the u-joints.



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 17:24:23 -0800
From: Don Grossman mac.com>
Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys

>Don: You still have that canned response for this one??
>
>> At the risk of sounding like a compleat idiot, what's a Highboy? Some kind
>> of factory lift?
>
>Stock Man

He he, you know me to well ;)

None of that canned spam this time.

From the beginning.....
The earth was formed.... jump ahead a few years. In the late
1950's Ford was looking at making a Factory 4 wheel drive. Previous
to this back to the 1910's all Fords were converted by several
different companies such as Marmon-Harrington (?sp) and Napco. Why
sent new trucks (and cars for that fact) out of house if there is
such a need for 4x4. Why not make them in house. So they did. The
first factory Ford 4x4 was in 1959. Basically all they did was add a
driven front axle to the 2 wheel drive and put a transfer case after
the transmission. Instead of redesigning the complete front end to
compensate for the change in wheel position they just added a block
under the rear springs between the springs and the axle.

You see the front solid I beam on the two wheel drive drops
down about 3 inches from the wheel center while the axle shafts are
even with the wheel center. If you really wanted to you could take
any 2 wheel drive from 59-64 and add a driven front axle. It will
bolt right in as the spring width is right. Yes some earlier years
will also work but I am only focusing in factory 4x4 years. The only
problem will be the front end will sit higher. That's where the rear
block came in. It was this way on the F-100 and F-250.

Lets move ahead again to 1965. Ford redesigned the F-100
with twin I beams in mind for the 2 wheel drive, using coils for the
front to soften the ride and make the truck less utilitarian. On the
4x4 they didn't have a twin I beam driven axle( that came in 1980)
but they decided to use the coils anyway so they still would have the
softer ride but the new design also allowed the front end to nose
down just a little. This was more noticeable with the changes in
1973. And that is where I am going to leave the F-100 and just focus
on the F-250 and F-350.

For the 65-66 model years the 4 wheel drives use the old
style cab, frame and suspension design. This kept the extra height
over their 2 wheel drive counterparts. 1967 came along and the cab
and frame design began to match the light duty trucks but F-250's and
up were still considered Heavy duty work trucks. The front leaves
maintained a high leaf count (8-9) leafs and had a positive arch.
Give or take a few design changes over the years this continued until
1970's when fuel and mileage standards began to really put hurt on
the Manufactures of big trucks. The other factor was more every day
people were buying the stronger trucks. So in order to make the ride
better and save a few arrow dynamic points the front end was changed
again. The number of leaves in the front springs was reduced for a
softer ride and maintained a negative arch( meaning they bend up in
the middle instead of up at the ends). This forced the front end
down for better airflow and put the truck at about the same ride
height as the 2 wheel drive trucks ( the end of the Hi-boy, High Boy,
Highboy, High-boy, what ever you want to call it).

As far as I know Highboy was not a factory term used for the
trucks and there was no Highboy option. The 4 wheel drive trucks
just sat higher out of necessity and design. As I have asked in the
past if anyone has and old order form from the 60's or 70's where you
could order the Highboy option I would like to see it.


How did I do Thom? Oh and Thom by the way your blue 67 on your web
page is backwards. The front pumpkin is on the wrong side ;)

Laters
--
Don Grossman
duckdonmac.com

43 GPW
63 F-100 4x4
77 F250
99 Contour

------------------------------

From: TBeeeeaol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:29:53 EST
Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys

Don: Excellent response on the Highboy issues and BTW--You my friend are
very, very perceptive! I flipped the image because I wanted the two trucks
turned inward.

> How did I do Thom? Oh and Thom by the way your blue 67 on your web
> page is backwards. The front pumpkin is on the wrong side ;)

Stock Man
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 17:39:00 -0800

Wow, I don't feel so dumb after all (although there are those who would
differ). Thanks for the explanation!

-----Original Message-----
From: Don Grossman [mailto:duckdonmac.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 5:24 PM
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: spotting Hi Boys


>Don: You still have that canned response for this one??
>
>> At the risk of sounding like a compleat idiot, what's a Highboy? Some
kind
>> of factory lift?
>
>Stock Man

He he, you know me to well ;)

None of that canned spam this time.

From the beginning.....
The earth was formed.... jump ahead a few years.


------------------------------

From: ClemmerMustangJCaol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:40:47 EST
Subject: Re: spotting Hi Boys

hi boys are great but can we move on? joking

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 17:46:07 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Springs/FE problems

'>>>>>>>65 F250 4X4 with the original heavy springs, and would like find
some good quality but not gaudy looking or overpriced shocks.
I'd prefer they just look like stock shocks,

I have KYB shocks on my 76.They are a quality shock amd they don't have
boots on them like a lot of other aftetrmarket shocks.If you peel the
stickers off
and paint them,they would look stock.

>>>>>>>> I've considered taking some leaves out, has anyone experimented with
this?

I disassembled mine,wire buffed all rust out,painted,greased and
reassembled.
also replaced the bushings and I am amazed at how much better it rides.


>>>>>>>>Re: FE problems

One thought that comes to my mind is wires - plug wires. There
not mention on in you parts list and can cause misses.
I wouldnt really figure on 3 of em,but hey, Ive seen weirder
stuff happen!

They are about 6 months old and seem to working fine,but at this point
it can't hurt to check them with my meter.Can't see wires messing up the
vacum tho.......

>>>>>>>>>>> You can also check out the carb & fuel circuit.

Went through the carb(twice)and the stock fuel pump checks out and I
also have a electric pump.

>>>>>>>>>>> Everything else you've mentioned are possibilities.
the fluctuating vacume readings could also be a bad valve
(from what I've read, never had one though

I was thinking a bad valve would show up on a compression test tho.....

>>>>>>>>>>>- well a broken valve spring once which read the same).

Got the valve covers off as I write this so I'll check that out.They all
look OK at a glance.

>>>>>>>>>>Hope the hints help (they didnt hurt me a bit ;-).

Of course they do.Thanks

>>>>>>>>>Come to find out,three of the wires were missing the clips (inside the boot)that clips on to the spark plug.

I'm not surprised,but mine used to run OK with my current wires so I
think alll parts are there.Going to check the wires tho......

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:40:58 -0500
From: bill poudrier ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: FE problems

Are the 3 possibly 4 cylinders on the same side of the
carb? I assume you have a dual plane manifold. Sometimes
some crap gets into one of the jets and make it lose
some cylinders.

Next check the points, assuming you have them. They
could be very close (small gap) and if the shaft is
out at all then they will open for 5 and not for the
other 3.

Just raving, hope it helps.

Bill


At 07:11 PM 3/21/00 -0800, you wrote:
>My 428 is giving me fits.
>Started running a little rough at cruise,maybe not hitting on all 8.
>I checked out the ignition and got a new coil
>(had a Pro-Master on sale at Summit and figured it would not hurt)
>MSD wires, Auto lite plugs and a cap.
>Rebuilt the AFB carb and paid extra attention to blowing out all
>the passages.
>Ran a compression and leak down test.
>Checked the vacum,steady as a rock.
>Pulled the valve covers and checked all the rockers and the pushrods.
>Cranked it with the covers off and all the rockers move up and down
>equally,
>so the cam seems to be OK
>I had a similar problem years ago that was the intake gaskets,so I
>changed them .No help.
>Checked for slop in timing chain.
>Every thing checked out and it still did not run right.
>On the way home the other day it really started running bad like it lost
>a cylinder (or more)completely.Got home and checked the vacuum.
>It is fluctuating like crazy ,like I have a major leak but with only 3
>vacuum lines I quickly eliminated them as a cause.
>It seems to be losing 3 cylinders .The cylinders are not directly
>across from each other,next to each other or next in the firing order.
>This engine ain't even broke in for a Ford,only has about 70,00 miles on
>it.
>
>What is wrong the the darn thing, O'wise ones...............
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:45:24 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: 1/2 ton, rev roataion D44's not all created equal??

Hey all

Was messing around wiht a couple of my Dana 44's and found one to have
much smaller axle tubes than the other three. I have several 78 and 79
front Bronco axles, but the one with smaller tubes was one I bought used
many years ago. Obviously, it has to be a 78 or 79, right. What do you
think it came out of? The radius arm castings (mounts) are smaller
also.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:54:43 -0600
Subject: Re: off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have questi
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>

Jeff,
Is your dist vacuum advance working properly? Also stick an accurate
vacuum gauge on the engine and monitor what the readings are as you drive
it around. If the carb is going into power mode and opening the power
valve then it will richen the mixture and your mileage will suffer. It
should not be doing this at cruising speed on a level surface. Carbs
like Holley's, AFB's, and QJet's have available parts to adjust when the
carb goes into power mode and how much additional fuel to deliver.
Brett
Super75cab
>4. Gas was $2/gallon even in Mexico and my new 400 still doesn't have
the
>table manners it might. Averaged 8 mpg and, while this isn't bad
>considering the load, it's hell to sit behind a 2bbl carb and
>low-compression motor and get mileage like I actually have huevos under
the
>hood. I have the 3.50 rear end, 33" tires, and am at 2500-2700 rpms at
60
>mph. A knowledgeable friend says re-jetting the carb should help, as I
am
>probably running lean at high(er) rpms. Local junkyards offered to sell
me
>entire carbs, but can I pick up needles reasonably (I suspect this rules
out
>Ford) anywhere else?
>Jeff
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 20:38:15 -0600
Subject: Re :Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit.
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>

Another thing to take a look at is the leaf pack itself. Are the leaves
rusted together into one mass? Sometimes just disassembling them and
either greasing them or replacing the plastic sliders (if equipped) can
make a world of difference. I've also pulled leaves out to soften the
ride. I had a Rancho spring kit on one truck that was only tolerable
fully loaded. I'd pull the second leaf out all around when I wasn't
needing to carry a heavy load.
As far as the knuckle goes they are not all that bad to repair. If yours
is like the ones I've worked on the trickiest part is the preload on the
pivot bearings. I've been lucky to just replace the bearings and races
with identical brand pieces and just put it back together again and drive
it. If yours has the jeep sized bells JC Whitney has the deal of the
century at less than $10 for both sides wipers and seals. In a crisis I
paid $49 a side locally. Another thing to look at is the condition of
the axle housing bells that the wipers and seals ride on. They can get
severly scarred up and will tear up the new seals. I've heard of people
grinding/sanding smooth the damage to give the seals a smoother surface
to seal against. Also, putting axle grease in the knuckle instead of
gear lube is a common backyard remedy to drippy seals. Better than dry
knuckles.
Brett
Super75cab
>I've considered taking some leaves out, has anyone experimented with
this?
>My drivers side knuckle leaks bad enough that it won't hold 90 wt,
>temporarily I'm going to put a mixture of front end grease and 140 wt
gear
>oil in it. Does anyone know where to get a knuckle rebuild kit for it?
>From: ballingrbootheel.net
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: JefriHansnaol.com
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:57:08 EST
Subject: Answers

Got some answers today on a little problem I've been having with the
truck (79 F-150 4WD with '69 429) lately. What do you think? Found a guy
who builds big block Ford streetable strip machines and he gave a
twice/thrice over.
Ever since I plumbed in the PVC system have had a heck of a time getting
a stable idle - idles 500 this trip - 1000 the next. Shut it off - diesels
this time - fires and sends the motor back spnning the next. 2500 rmps in 2nd
and 3rd draws 17 on the vacume gage - 2500 in 4th draws 8-10 (thats 65-68 mph
- the motor isn't dragging with the 4:11's - 33 inch tires) Climbed the
motor over with a can of ether - no vacume leaks anywhere.
If I say it here - I've said it a million times - I'm bassackwards - can
listen to a person describe problems with thier modern era Ford and pinpoint
the problem censor in an EFI system - but don't know zip point schitt about a
carborator. Kid today taught me bunchs in the span of 5 minutes - says thats
about how easy they are. Told/showed me the reason I can turn these idle
mixture screws ALL the way in - and it'll sit there just a thumping away,
only slightly slow in idle - no dieing here.
Showed me the problem lies in the fact the engine is suffocating with the
holley 600cfm 4150 it has on it. Throttle venturies already partially open
just to idle. All my idle adjustment is with the throttle set screw - not
the mixture screws.
So - pluming in the PVC system - it's getting more air - via the vacume
on the PVC line - but this has caused less air to mix with the gas in the
carb. Hince - erratic idle.
Said I could do one of too things - either get a 750 carb, or take the
carb off , the venturies out, and drill holes in the venturies. The latter
would give more seat of the pants torque, but less highway power. Told him
it already has too much of each - 2nd and 3rd gear torque and the power to
constantly break things.
What do you think?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:07:05 -0500
From: bill poudrier ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: Grease seal replacement

I need to replace the seals on the rear axels
of my 79 F150. These things are huge compared to
normal car seals. I need to remove the bearings
but it looks like pressing them off will damage them
and they too will need to be replaced. Of course then
I will need to replace the races as well. Is there a
way to do this without damaging the bearings?

Bill



------------------------------

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