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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 22 Mar 2000 00:29:07 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 00:29:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #45
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 21 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 045

In This Issue:
steering shaft
Re: Pitman arm
Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit.
Re: 67 Grill, 68 to 70 DOVE series heads.
78 Bronco body mounts
Re: 78 Bronco body mounts
A nagging question - D44 stub axles
Re: A nagging question - D44 stub axles
Re: Headlights, etc.
Re: Headlights, etc.
Re: Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit.
73-79 Crew Cab
Re: 73-79 Crew Cab
(off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have questions
Re: (off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have quest
Re: 67 Grill, 68 to 70 DOVE series heads.
Re: Complete 8 ft Bed Assm. for 73 to 79 Ford
Re: Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit.
Re: 73-79 Crew Cab
Ford argent silver (gray) paint code
Spotting a Hi-Boy
Rear Disks on an older dana 60
FE problems
Re: Ford argent silver (gray) paint code
Re: (off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have
Re: FE problems
Crewcab Hauler Pictures On Website
Re: FE problems

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: quadna71 netzero.net
Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 14:48:50 -0500
Subject: steering shaft

Hi all,
I'm having trouble finding a steering shaft within my price range for my
truck and was hoping one of you could steer (hee hee) me in the right
direction. It is the shaft that connects the column to the box by way
of a shaft with a u-joint on each end. The upper joint is pretty much
shot and as a result, the wheel has about 3" - 5" of play at the points
of contact. My truck is a '79 F-250 4x4 with the H/D 300ci. It has a
four speed on the floor, power steering, and no a/c. I am also planning
on lifting the body about 3" in combination with the suspension in about
2 months and was wondering if they make one that has a built in slide to
compensate for the lift (that is, if it is affected. this is my first
attempt at a lift) of the cab compared to the position of the steering
box. Thanks in advance for any and all help.
p.s. keep the spirits up Gary; I appreciate your vast knowledge on a
daily basis.

chris koran
1979 F-250 4x4 Longbed

__________________________________________
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

From: "George W. Selby, III" ibox.net>
Subject: Re: Pitman arm
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 02:28:19 -0500

Superlift sells them. Also try http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.rockymountiansusp.com they have alot of stuff suspension wise.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Nissan 300ZX
82 Jeep Cherokee
85 Dodge W-100
digiman ibox.net


------------------------------

From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit.
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 04:50:36 -0600

It's time for either new shocks on the '65 or I'll need caps on my teeth. I
have a '65 F250 4X4 with the original heavy springs, and would like find
some good quality but not gaudy looking or overpriced shocks. I'd prefer
they just look like stock shocks, but they need lots of damping at the top,
you get your teeth hammered out on a washboard road.

I've considered taking some leaves out, has anyone experimented with this?

My drivers side knuckle leaks bad enough that it won't hold 90 wt,
temporarily I'm going to put a mixture of front end grease and 140 wt gear
oil in it. Does anyone know where to get a knuckle rebuild kit for it?


------------------------------

From: Clemstang1 aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 08:10:29 EST
Subject: Re: 67 Grill, 68 to 70 DOVE series heads.

Have several sets of these heads, I am in Tennessee if you are still
interested let me know?
Jeff

------------------------------

From: Gary Tobolski mediaone.net>
Subject: 78 Bronco body mounts
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2000 18:41:08 -0500

Hi. I am in the process of restoring my Bronco, and am currently taking
the body off the frame. After removine the mounting bolts, the rubber and
a washer are stuck to the frame. How do I remove these? Thanks
Eric Tobolski
etobolski netscape.net


------------------------------

From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: 78 Bronco body mounts
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 07:57:01 -0600

----- Original Message -----

> Hi. I am in the process of restoring my Bronco, and am currently taking
> the body off the frame. After removine the mounting bolts, the rubber and
> a washer are stuck to the frame. How do I remove these? Thanks

Gary,
If I am not mistaken there is a washer on top and one on the bottom. The
washers have a sleeve that threads them together. I recently change my
rubber cab bounts, on mine I used a air hammer because I wasn't going to
re-use them. I tried turning a couple of the washers and all of them were
rusted to the point that I could not get mine to "un-screw".

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6



------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: A nagging question - D44 stub axles
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 06:48:00 -0800 (PST)

This question has been bothering me since I put my front axle back
together. It's a half-ton Dana 44.

The outer ends of the stub axles are held by the locking hub and the
inner ends ride in roller bearings that are pressed into the spindles.
In think the rollers in the bearings were about 3/32" in diameter. I
couldn't find any instructions for lubing these bearings. I packed
them with axle grease.

I know the wheel's load is carried by the spindle, but this bearing
looked awful light to do it's job which is basically to hold the outer
end of the axle assemblies in position. There is nothing in the axle
tube to hold the end of the axles so it is all done by this bearing.
This makes sense because it would bind if it were held on both sides
of the u-joints.

Am I looking at this right? Was packing it with axle grease the
right thing?

Somehow it just doesn't feel right. With the hubs locked going at
highway speed the axles are turning real fast in those little
bearings. Also, with the wheels turned, driving the axle must put
a fairly significant load on them.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
temporarily in live mode


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 10:01:27 -0500
From: Rob Long bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: A nagging question - D44 stub axles

yeah I think that you are ok with packing the bearings with grease. I
have pulled my axles on both sides quite a few times working on them and
I know for sure that the out axle shaft rides on the needle bearings. I
think that is how it gets its flexability. Maybe some other people have
a better reasoning for this...

Rob

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.xoom.com/Ford_Truck
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=898
----
'78 F250 Ranger 4x4
400 V8, 4" susp lift, 35" General Grabber MT on American Eagle 589
wheels.


------------------------------

From: "Scott Jensen" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Headlights, etc.
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 06:15:28 -0800

I went though my dash a few months ago, because my dash lights were out.
Found the contacts for the lights to the printed circuit board were a bit
corroded. I cleaned them up and they worked, but I had to jiggle a few of
them, "just so". I replaced the headlight switch at the same time, probably
unnecessarily; cleaning the rheostat would have done the job. I never
thought about the dimmer switch, but looking at the schematic, I see it
could be a problem. All the parts for the headlight relay are assembled,
but I've been working on the fuel consumption problem. Last Sundays hotter
thermostat and carb rebuild helped a lot. Still need the wet float
adjustment.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 09:07:17 -0700
From: William Whited ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Headlights, etc.

I had a similar problem with my 74 the lights would work sometimes and
sometimes not. They would also go out after the switch got warm up like after
30 min of running at night. Changed the switch problem solved.

William A Whited
74 F100 Ranger Supercab 390
77 F150 Custom 460
El Paso, TX, Semper Fi


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 08:19:22 -0800
From: Don Grossman mac.com>
Subject: Re: Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit.

>
> I've considered taking some leaves out, has anyone experimented with this?

Taking leaves out of the pack might not be a good idea with the stock
springs. It might sag to much.

>My drivers side knuckle leaks bad enough that it won't hold 90 wt,
>temporarily I'm going to put a mixture of front end grease and 140 wt gear
>oil in it. Does anyone know where to get a knuckle rebuild kit for it?

If your local part supplier can't find it, AutoZone and such most
likely would not have it, old time Napa or mom and pop parts stores
might have it listed for your truck. Any place that supplies old jeep
parts will have the kits. I had to do that with my 63 when it had
the closed knuckles. Look up the seal kit for a 50's or 60's jeep CJ
or M38 and it should work. The knuckle seals on my 43 GPW are
exactly the same, well only older so lots of years will work.

You can slow the leak down by making your own new felt pieces. Reuse
the metal parts cut some felt so it is a tight fit. A new kit
contains a rubber inner seal, felt gasket(also acts as a wiper) and
the metal retainers.

Laters
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

43 GPW
63 F-100 4x4
77 F250
99 Contour

------------------------------

From: Chris Brandt ClarityVisual.com>
Subject: 73-79 Crew Cab
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 08:50:44 -0800

Its time for another project truck.....

I am looking for a 73-79 4 door cab. Would prefer a complete 78-79 air cab
but can't be real picky. Or I need a pair of rear crew cab doors (have found
a gutted cab). I bought a burned out 77 Super Camper Special and am going to
build an ultra short box crew cab for pulling the boat. Located in Portland
Or... I will have some parts from the super camper for sale so send me what
you need. These trucks arn't real common so there must be something usefull
that I am not going to use...

Chris Brandt
Portland Or
79 F350 4x4 Lariet
77 F350 Super Camper Burned/Ugly/POS/Project

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 12:13:08 -0500
From: "Christopher J. Phillips" mail.med.upenn.edu>
Subject: Re: 73-79 Crew Cab

sorry try to sell my 79 super cab

any help?


At 8:50 AM -0800 3/21/2000, Chris Brandt wrote:
>Its time for another project truck.....
>
>I am looking for a 73-79 4 door cab. Would prefer a complete 78-79 air cab
>but can't be real picky. Or I need a pair of rear crew cab doors (have found
>a gutted cab). I bought a burned out 77 Super Camper Special and am going to
>build an ultra short box crew cab for pulling the boat. Located in Portland
>Or... I will have some parts from the super camper for sale so send me what
>you need. These trucks arn't real common so there must be something usefull
>that I am not going to use...
>
>Chris Brandt
>Portland Or
>79 F350 4x4 Lariet
>77 F350 Super Camper Burned/Ugly/POS/Project
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.


Christopher J. Phillips (215) 573-5427 voice
Building Administrator (215) 898-6252 fax
University of Pennsylvania Medical Center
215 Blockley Hall
423 Guardian Drive
Philadelphia, PA 19104-6069



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 11:05:34 -0800
Subject: (off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have questions
From: "Jeff Norville" sosinet.net>

Howdy folks:

Just returned from a Baja "vacation" (work), and my 79 Bronco (np435 4
speed, np205 xfer case) made it back with me. Now we swap roles - it gets a
beer and a seat in the shade while I work hard on it...

Tire, transmission/clutch, hub, and a mileage question or two for ya'll:

1. Agave (cactus tequila is made from :) spine through sidewall - just
clipped it short while there and made it home. Pulled out a 1" spine at a
diagonal through the sidewall when I reached my driveway and it hasn't lost
air ... yet. BFG 33x12.5 have the 3ply sidewalls; tell me it ain't time for
a new one already?

2. Just before leaving I had a tranny mechanic put in new input shaft
bearings (np435 with 170,000 miles) - one on back was making a racket. He
noted that my xfer case was nearly dry, but the bearings/gears still looked
ok. I checked both gear box fluid levels while down there and, once again,
xfer case was way low. Yesterday I checked both again expecting the xfer
case to be low and the gearbox to be ok - was the opposite! My 4spd was
down 1.5 pints or so and the xfer case was topped. Huh???

I also put in a new heavy duty clutch just before heading down; on the
return drive occasionally the clutch didn't disengage all the way - pedal to
the floor and the stick wouldn't come out of gear and the friction plate was
draggin me forward. Let my foot up again and then engage and it would be
fine. This was a HUGE drag while sitting in TJ traffic; stop and go, and my
1st gear kept trying to pull me into the back of the car in front of me.

If it's just time to readjust my clutch (it is) why would this be an
on-again off-again thing? Could there be any connection with the tranny
work? Shifts are a little more noisy - like there's thinner gear oil in the
transmission. I ask because the transmission shop forgot several things -
like reconnecting my exhaust pipe support after reattaching the crossmember,
and the little detail of reattaching the xfer case gear selector to the xfer
case... Oops.

3. O-ring on new hub broke near home - little bit of wheel bearing grease
splattering around. Did I overpack wheel bearing before trip? I used 4wd
(even compound this time!) plenty, maybe the six allen bolts holding the
new (Superwinch) hub on loosened?

4. Gas was $2/gallon even in Mexico and my new 400 still doesn't have the
table manners it might. Averaged 8 mpg and, while this isn't bad
considering the load, it's hell to sit behind a 2bbl carb and
low-compression motor and get mileage like I actually have huevos under the
hood. I have the 3.50 rear end, 33" tires, and am at 2500-2700 rpms at 60
mph. A knowledgeable friend says re-jetting the carb should help, as I am
probably running lean at high(er) rpms. Local junkyards offered to sell me
entire carbs, but can I pick up needles reasonably (I suspect this rules out
Ford) anywhere else?

Finally, after submitting you and Bronco to my smog tales of terror a couple
of months back it looks like I will be moving to Oregon in a couple of
weeks. I hear they're not quite as stringent and my new vacuum routings,
cat converter and exhaust won't be necessary. Dang.

Good to back on the list!

Jeff

------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:55:18 GMT
Subject: Re: (off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have quest

>1. Agave (cactus tequila is made from :) spine through sidewall - just
>clipped it short while there and made it home. Pulled out a 1" spine at a

>diagonal through the sidewall when I reached my driveway and it hasn't lost

>air ... yet. BFG 33x12.5 have the 3ply sidewalls; tell me it ain't time for

>a new one already?
>

If its not losing air I wouldn't worry about it too much ... though I don't
do near the offroading you do from the sounds of it ... just keep the spare(s)
aired up :)

> Yesterday I checked both again expecting the xfer
>case to be low and the gearbox to be ok - was the opposite! My 4spd was
>down 1.5 pints or so and the xfer case was topped. Huh???
>

Check the seal between the xfer case and the tranny, could be that seal went
out and you pumped the fluid out of the tranny into the xfer case (unless its
divorced of course, then I sound like a dork)


>If it's just time to readjust my clutch (it is) why would this be an
>on-again off-again thing?

Check all the pivot points to see if they've "wallowed" out any that could cause
this sort of thing (sometimes it slips sometimes it doesn't)



> Shifts are a little more noisy - like there's thinner gear oil in the
>transmission.

Is this when its full of oil, or when its running low ? It would be expected
when its running low I would think ...


>hood. I have the 3.50 rear end, 33" tires, and am at 2500-2700 rpms at 60


That's pretty good in my book ... my 30" tires put me a little over that ...


> A knowledgeable friend says re-jetting the carb should help, as I am
>probably running lean at high(er) rpms.

I don't understand how this will help mileage, re-jetting will get you more
fuel flow and cause less mileage ... at least intuition tells me that ... If
you can afford it I'd look into bumping the compression up, they've found some
9:1 pistons if I remember right that should do both get you better power and
better mileage ... provided you can keep your foot out of it of course :)


>Good to back on the list!
>
Welcome back :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 16:41:26 -0500
From: j arnold ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Grill, 68 to 70 DOVE series heads.

At 08:10 AM 3/21/00 EST, you wrote:
>Have several sets of these heads, I am in Tennessee if you are still
>interested let me know?
> Jeff


Jeff,

I could use a set of these heads, what will you take for a set?

stoney


------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 17:22:08 EST
Subject: Re: Complete 8 ft Bed Assm. for 73 to 79 Ford

I second that getting a bed (or box as they say in the southern US) from
Desert Valley Auto Parts. The bed was $800.00 plus $400.00 for shipping to
New Jersey. They are located in Phoneix Arizona.....definatly well worth th
money IMHO. Wayne Grabley

------------------------------

From: "Don Jones" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Shocks and closed-knuckle repair kit.
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 14:31:06 PST



>
>It's time for either new shocks on the '65 or I'll need caps on my teeth.
>I
>have a '65 F250 4X4 with the original heavy springs, and would like find
>some good quality but not gaudy looking or overpriced shocks. I'd prefer
>they just look like stock shocks, but they need lots of damping at the top,
>you get your teeth hammered out on a washboard road.
>
> I've considered taking some leaves out, has anyone experimented with
>this?


I thought about this too. My parts truck has leafs that are almost
flat. I havent measured, but its got 8.00x17 tires on it and looks to ride
much lower than my truck does.
One thought is to remove some leafs from the front springs only and
have the remaining leafs re-arched or add a block to maintain the ride
height.
I agree with you on the ride quality.. My hunting buddy commented that
the majority of suspension travel on my old beast is in the seat springs,
and that he complains that he always has to buy extra beer to allow for the
ones that break in the back...

Don Jones
1970 f-250 4x4 ~Fordzilla~





______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 16:45:56 -0800
From: wicowboy gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 73-79 Crew Cab

This is probably a little more than you are interested in but maybe some
other list members may be interested. I met a guy from washington
selling a running/driving (he offered to drive it to me in Wisconsin
from Washington so it must be pretty reliable) '79 Crew Cab 4x2, from
the pics i saw it looked real clean. I think he's looking to get around
$1500 for it, its got a reman 6cyl in it and a 4 speed (assuming np435,
he said its got a real low 1st). If anyone has any interest in it,
e-mail me and i'll search for his number.

I would have bought it if I hadn't just bought the '71 Super Duty car
hauler I bought last week which is also for sale if anybodys interested
(http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/20713377), on my way home from
picking it up I found a '93 F-350 car hauler with a deisel for $5000
that had a light roll so I bought that too, now I have to get rid of the
'71. Oh well

WICoWbOy
'71 F-SuperDuty Car hauler, unkown FE, C-6 (For Sale:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/20713377)
'75 F-250 4x4 390, np435, 44" Ground Hawgs
'77 F-150 SWB 4x4 460, c-6, Dana 60 f/r 40" Boggers
'79 F-250 4x4 514ci Ford SVO,np435,Dana 60 f/r 44" Boggers
'93 F-350 4x2 6.9 Deisel, Car Hauler

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 18:25:38 -0600
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Ford argent silver (gray) paint code

Does anyone know what the Ford argent silver (gray) paint code is
for bumpers? I am in need of this material in bulk, not in a spray can.

Thanks!

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 16:47:02 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Spotting a Hi-Boy

>>>>>the NP 205 should also be divoriced from the trans. (drive shaft running from transfer case to transmissions.

My 76 Hi-Boy came with a married full time 205 behind a C-6,but the
last time we had this discussion someone said their Hi-Boy had a C-6
with a divorced 205.......
I would think all Hi-Boys came with a FE instead of a 351-400 but I'm
not sure

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 17:02:17 -0800
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Rear Disks on an older dana 60

Has anyone tried to convert their early 70's dana 60 to disk? I have
seen a few kits and have ben thinking of it and i just want some
opinions.

One kit i found uses dana 60 front disks (they recommend the ch*v disk)
and calipers from a caddy, The ones with the integral parking brake.
They bolt onto a supplied bracket.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:11:13 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: FE problems

My 428 is giving me fits.
Started running a little rough at cruise,maybe not hitting on all 8.
I checked out the ignition and got a new coil
(had a Pro-Master on sale at Summit and figured it would not hurt)
MSD wires, Auto lite plugs and a cap.
Rebuilt the AFB carb and paid extra attention to blowing out all
the passages.
Ran a compression and leak down test.
Checked the vacum,steady as a rock.
Pulled the valve covers and checked all the rockers and the pushrods.
Cranked it with the covers off and all the rockers move up and down
equally,
so the cam seems to be OK
I had a similar problem years ago that was the intake gaskets,so I
changed them .No help.
Checked for slop in timing chain.
Every thing checked out and it still did not run right.
On the way home the other day it really started running bad like it lost
a cylinder (or more)completely.Got home and checked the vacuum.
It is fluctuating like crazy ,like I have a major leak but with only 3
vacuum lines I quickly eliminated them as a cause.
It seems to be losing 3 cylinders .The cylinders are not directly
across from each other,next to each other or next in the firing order.
This engine ain't even broke in for a Ford,only has about 70,00 miles on
it.

What is wrong the the darn thing, O'wise ones...............

------------------------------

From: "Don Jones" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ford argent silver (gray) paint code
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:27:35 PST


>
>Does anyone know what the Ford argent silver (gray) paint code is
>for bumpers? I am in need of this material in bulk, not in a spray can.


Stu:
Any auto supply place that sells paint can get the code for you.
The local place that I get paint from let me borrow the book a few days ago,
and they had codes and chips for just about any colour you want, including
air cleaner and engine colours back to 1960. Argent is a pretty common
colour for ford truck bumpers and wheels.

Don Jones
197 f-250 4x4

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 23:16:46 EST
Subject: Re: (off)Road tested new 400, np435, etc - now have

Interesting story about the Mexico trip! Like you I've also got a Bronco w
somewhat anemic 400. Mine's a '79. Motor was a stock rebuild that Ive added
some stuff to - Like Headers, 2.5" Duals, Weiand Intake & Holley 600. Im also
running about 8-9 mpg if I keep it at 50 or less. I recently added Holley's
Adjust-a-jet kit and am beginning to work through it. Neat Kit - it replaces
the stock Holley jets with an externally adjustable needle valve. Im geared
the same as you but run 31" tires and turn 2500 rpms at 55 mph. it's looking
like Im cracking my secondariness while just cruising (with the Holley black
spring in the secondary actuator). Im persuaded that Ive got to slow the
motor down to see any real improvement in mileage. Ive got a few other idea's
for the original 400 from it that I want to try. It's a fine thing having 2
motors and tranny's (much to the wife's dislike). But that's a project to
start after the Taurus gets a new tranny.

Well, enough babbling for now. I guess Im saying that your mileage isn't too
far off of par (or at least from me). I can let yall know how well the
adjust-a-jet kit works out (was simple to install) .

George in Fl.


In a message dated 3/21/2000 2:07:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
norville sosinet.net writes:

>
> 4. Gas was $2/gallon even in Mexico and my new 400 still doesn't have the
> table manners it might. Averaged 8 mpg and, while this isn't bad
> considering the load, it's hell to sit behind a 2bbl carb and
> low-compression motor and get mileage like I actually have huevos under the
> hood. I have the 3.50 rear end, 33" tires, and am at 2500-2700 rpms at 60
> mph. A knowledgeable friend says re-jetting the carb should help, as I am
> probably running lean at high(er) rpms. Local junkyards offered to sell me
> entire carbs, but can I pick up needles reasonably (I suspect this rules
out
> Ford) anywhere else?
>

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 23:36:32 EST
Subject: Re: FE problems

One thought that comes to my mind is wires - plug wires. There not mentioned
in you parts list and can cause misses. I wouldnt really figure on 3 of em,
but hey, Ive seen weirder stuff happen! You can also check out the carb &
fuel circuit. I've got a 400 that loves fuel pumps (they like to go weak and
starve teh engine whe it needs fuel the most).. it could be a dirty filter or
problem in the carb even. Everything else you've mentioned are possibilities.
the fluctuating vacume readings could also be a bad valve (from what I've
read, never had one though - well a broken valve spring once which read the
same).

Hope the hints help (they didnt hurt me a bit ;-).

Geroge in Fl.


In a message dated 3/21/2000 10:21:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
scott ford-trucks.com writes:

> My 428 is giving me fits.
> Started running a little rough at cruise,maybe not hitting on all 8.
> I checked out the ignition and got a new coil
> (had a Pro-Master on sale at Summit and figured it would not hurt)
> MSD wires, Auto lite plugs and a cap.
> Rebuilt the AFB carb and paid extra attention to blowing out all
> the passages.
> Ran a compression and leak down test.
> Checked the vacum,steady as a rock.
> Pulled the valve covers and checked all the rockers and the pushrods.
> Cranked it with the covers off and all the rockers move up and down
> equally,
> so the cam seems to be OK
> I had a similar problem years ago that was the intake gaskets,so I
> changed them .No help.
> Checked for slop in timing chain.
> Every thing checked out and it still did not run right.
> On the way home the other day it really started running bad like it lost
> a cylinder (or more)completely.Got home and checked the vacuum.
> It is fluctuating like crazy ,like I have a major leak but with only 3
> vacuum lines I quickly eliminated them as a cause.
> It seems to be losing 3 cylinders .The cylinders are not directly
> across from each other,next to each other or next in the firing order.
> This engine ain't even broke in for a Ford,only has about 70,00 miles on
> it.
>
> What is wrong the the darn thing, O'wise ones...............

------------------------------

From: "Carver" ncwebsurfer.com>
Subject: Crewcab Hauler Pictures On Website
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:44:10 -0800

Hi all -

It took me a bit longer than I intended, but I got the
pictures of the '84 F6000 CrewCab on my website.
If you are looking for a rig for pulling a trailer, this
is it. It's not mine, just a very cool Ford CrewCab that
needs to go to a good home.

Go to:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ncwebsurfer.com/carver/

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: FE problems
Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 00:35:28 -0500

Check the plug wires,even if they are new.I once helped a friend of mine put
headers on his truck & he replaced the plug wires with brand new ones.We
double checked to make sure we had the wires on in the correct order.Come to
find out,three of the wires were missing the clips (inside the boot)that
clips on to the spark plug.They were a well known High Performance Brand
Name. They were not just any off the shelf cheapies.
-----Original Message-----
From: GMontgo930 aol.com aol.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 11:42 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: FE problems


>One thought that comes to my mind is wires - plug wires. There not
mentioned
>in you parts list and can cause misses. I wouldnt really figure on 3 of em,
>but hey, Ive seen weirder stuff happen! You can also check out the carb &
>fuel circuit. I've got a 400 that loves fuel pumps (they like to go weak
and
>starve teh engine whe it needs fuel the most).. it could be a dirty filter
or
>problem in the carb even. Everything else you've mentioned are
possibilities.
>the fluctuating vacume readings could also be a bad valve (from what I've
>read, never had one though - well a broken valve spring once which read the
>same).
>
>Hope the hints help (they didnt hurt me a bit ;-).
>
>Geroge in Fl.
>
>
>In a message dated 3/21/2000 10:21:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>scott ford-trucks.com writes:
>
>> My 428 is giving me fits.
>> Started running a little rough at cruise,maybe not hitting on all 8.
>> I checked out the ignition and got a new coil
>> (had a Pro-Master on sale at Summit and figured it would not hurt)
>> MSD wires, Auto lite plugs and a cap.
>> Rebuilt the AFB carb and paid extra attention to blowing out all
>> the passages.
>> Ran a compression and leak down test.
>> Checked the vacum,steady as a rock.
>> Pulled the valve covers and checked all the rockers and the pushrods.
>> Cranked it with the covers off and all the rockers move up and down
>> equally,
>> so the cam seems to be OK
>> I had a similar problem years ago that was the intake gaskets,so I
>> changed them .No help.
>> Checked for slop in timing chain.....


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