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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Sat, 12 Feb 2000 19:44:07 -0500 (EST) Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 19:44:07 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #4 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Fri, 11 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 004 In This Issue: windshield trim more 460 head questions Steering U Joint 67-72 windshield trim Re: Water in oil Re: windshield trim BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff 351 Oiling Tip?? Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff IRS idea/AOD tranny Re: IRS idea/AOD tranny Re: more 460 head questions ADMIN: Trim footers ADMIN: Web search is back up Re: Draining my Battery!?! Re: Gearheadgarage Re: more 460 head questions Re: cost of rebuilt 429? 61-67 econolines Re: Windshield Trim ADMIN: Chat is back up Re: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #3 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 17:28:39 -0800 From: scott Subject: windshield trim >would 73-79 trim work?? Good question.I know the windshield is the same,gaskets should be the same so the trim shoud work.BTW there are at least 3 different gaskets for windshield.No trim.wide trim and narrow trim. I can tell you first hand the wide trim is a real bear to get installed properly.Finally took it to a glass shop. >I understand 62-79 all use the same windshield but not absolutely sure I believe it is 67-79 that is the same.Front bumper is the same from 62-76 tho..I think they got thier money's worth out of that pattern. ------------------------------ From: A61fordtruck Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 21:48:33 EST Subject: more 460 head questions In a message dated 02/10/2000 7:16:05 PM EST, listar << The 3 must be hard to read. Should read "D3VE-A2A", one of three designs used between 72 and 74. My current 1974 Lincoln 460 came from the factory with these installed. They have 91 cc combustion chambers in 75 it went to 96 cc, so they are the next to lowest compression. Obviously the 3 indicates it is a 1973 casting design. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 >> Burt, thanks for that information. does those heads have the big intakes or small, and are they screw-in studs or press-in? thanks, Greg schnakenberg ------------------------------ From: BDIJXS Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 21:55:34 EST Subject: Steering U Joint Hey George, If you don't a response soon on this, send me a message and I'll dig up the Spicer part numbers for you.....I've installed one of these kits and they are NICE!!!! Makes the stock stuff look Mickey Mouse... CJ ------------------------------ From: "Redden" Subject: 67-72 windshield trim Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 21:54:27 -0500 Dan: The stainless steel windsheild trim is about $25 to $30 a piece thru the aftermarket supply houses. The whole set is around $110. I have been collecting pieces for my windshield, one piece at a time at junkyards. I still need two pieces. Found a set on Ebay. They'll need to be polished and scratches removed. Most guys won't break up a set; I got a set for $30. Let me know if you only need a couple pieces (free except for shipping,) cause I'll have extras (I have one duplicate now). Mike ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:10:01 -0500 From: Ted Wnorowski Subject: Re: Water in oil "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote: > My 352 used to develop water in the oil over the winter when it sat for a > long time. Every spring I had to actually drain the oil and refill it > because it would get up to a couple of quarts of water in it and there was > no way for it to get in there except condensation. This may be an FE thing > or an oil air cleaner thing or a storage thing, not sure. > > -- > Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary > -- Not quite to that extent but moisture in the 352 just the same. It's happened every winter to me so far. Ted Wnorowski Bellevue,OH ' 64 F-250 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:36:33 -0500 From: Tim Anderson Subject: Re: windshield trim Daniel, There are some differences in the rubber between the 67-72 and 73-79, but they seem to swap ok. I put the windshield from my 67 into my 77 using the 77's rubber and it worked just fine. New rubber for the 67-72 is available (or was last year) from Autocrafters. I don't have their address handy but it's easy to find. Good luck. Tim in Anchorage '67 F-100 ------------------------------ From: "Pat" Subject: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 00:20:28 -0800 Gotta agree with you Gary. One thing that is a neat doo-dad to put in your truck is the adjustable brake proportioning valve that replaces the non-adjustable ones that the truck come with. Neat thing about these guys is that you can dial in how much brake you want on the front or on the back. Think of the possibilities for hills going down, going up, towing, heavy loads, etc. With larger than stock tires in a heavy vehicle I don't think you can make them too sensitive :-) -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary ------------------------------ From: "PitStop Performance" Subject: 351 Oiling Tip?? Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 03:02:25 CST Hey all, It was some while back, but a list member posted a great tip to improve oiling on a street 351M. If I remember right, it started out as a high dollar race treatment... But the poster showed a cheaper way to do it for street engines. I think it had something to do with tapping the block near the rear of the valley pan and redirecting some oil up front. There were pics and other good stuff. If you are still here can you post that again? If not, does anyone have a link to the pics that were posted? Thanks. ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 07:13:43 -0500 That may be needed in some special cases but I've found that the OEM proportioning valve works very well most of the time, certainly better than ABS for sure and with out a doubt in my experience :-) The trick I've always used is to adjust the rear drums fairly tight and test them for eveness just before winter. Nothing worse than uneven brakes on ice........ The rear brakes may only do 10-20% of the braking on a 2wd pickup truck but in a bronco or 4wd pickup they do more than that and that 10-20% is absolutely crucial to getting stopped in the rain or on ice etc.. ABS takes too much away from the rear so you don't get the full benefit of them under panic conditions......I found this out the hard way...(most OEM brake programmers are drunks....:-)):-( A properly adjusted proportioning valve or OEM one that is already correct for the application (most are pretty good) can get them to play a better part in the braking under panic conditions. Remember if you add one to the system then you will have dual valves which may not allow enough braking in the rear. I wound up with the willwood unit almost all the way tight to get enough rear action to suit me on the bronco but, again, the weight distribution is close to 50/50 on a bronco and larger tires changes the formula too. On a 2wd pickup you have the worst case scenerio, least weight on the rear empty so additional proportioning may help if you never carry a load in it. If you often carry loads then you should consider the potential of inferior brakes when loaded if you over control the rear. What I'm saying is that these units were made for circle track racing to help generate exactly the correct relationship for hard braking in corners and were never intended to be used on street vehicles. That doesn't rule them out under certain special conditions but use them with caution. Make sure that is really your problem before going this route and if you have disk front brakes, DO NOT REMOVE THE STOCK PROPORTIONING VALVE! It is a critical part in the proper operation of your front disk brakes. If you really feel you need to do "something" then plug the rear ports and bypass it with your rear lines and use the Willwood unit but leave the front connected in stock form. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Gotta agree with you Gary. One thing that is a neat doo-dad >to put in your >truck is the adjustable brake proportioning valve that replaces the ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 08:20:30 -0500 From: Steve Schaefer Subject: IRS idea/AOD tranny I measured up the T-Bird IRS unit last night. It measures 63.75 from wheel bolt flange to wheel bolt flange. Just for the hey of it I also measured the Dana 60 I have sitting there. It measure about 67 from bolt flange to bolt flange. A little extra rim space never hurt anyone. I have the whole rear assembly out of a 90 T-Bird LX laying here, if interested you can have it. It is only a 7.5, but it would be good for measurement purposes. I am in Erie PA. Gary, I am interested in how the AOD rebuild goes. That is the only tranny that I can say has defeated me in the rebuild area. Last time was an expensive lesson, and I worked at a parts house at the time. Stubborn and broke, I ended up buying a rebuilt one. Lesson learned, stick with the C-6. Steve S. 77 F-250 Supercab 76 F-350 Crewcab http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/ ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: IRS idea/AOD tranny Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 08:47:16 -0500 I have the professional manual, how hard can it be ?? :-):-) Just had this discussion with a guy who's son had a horror story about a shop doing his tranny. I told him virtually all pro shops have a tranny dyno in house so they can check for problems before re-installing them and they virtually all wind up taking them down at least once before they get in the car due to the sensitivity to dirt and burrs etc.. I'm hoping my new White Room and possesion of a professional manual from ATSG will make it a fun experience this time :-) Since my son has no money I will not be under the gun to get it done so it will be a stress free project :-) That's the kind I like....stress free......no deadline :-) I'm going to get flamed, I just sent an un-trimmed post a minute ago....:-( -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >Gary, >I am interested in how the AOD rebuild goes. That is the only >tranny that I can say has defeated me in the rebuild >area. Last time was an expensive lesson, and I worked at a >parts house at the time. Stubborn and broke, I ended up >buying a rebuilt one. Lesson learned, stick with the C-6. ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 12:07:55 EST Subject: Re: more 460 head questions In a message dated 2/11/00 9:49:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, A61fordtruck << thanks for that information. does those heads have the big intakes or small, and are they screw-in studs or press-in? thanks, Greg schnakenberg >> This head has, as do most of 460's, the 2.08", or small ones compared to the police 73-74 460 at 2.19", and the 429CJ/SCJ at 2.24". They use a bolt and pedestal for the rocker mount. Most all of the after market catalogs (Summit, Jeg's, etc..) offer a push rod guide and screw in stud for use in the bolt hole that allows installation of roller rockers in this head. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 13:24:28 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: Trim footers Can everyone discipline themselves to remove the unsubscribe information footer from the bottom of messages when replying? It's getting old seeing 4 of them on a multiple message reply. If the list can't self-police themselves with this, I'll have to set up a filter to bounce such posts. Thanks, Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 14:33:37 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: Web search is back up The Ford Truck Enthusiasts web search is working again. It's very fast and will search about 200 meg of content in about 2-5 seconds. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 21:39:55 -0500 From: Brad Subject: Re: Draining my Battery!?! At 09:23 AM 02/09/2000 -0800, you wrote: >Check the horn relay. Mine was doing this. > >Rob G. > > > > >craig001 > >Please respond to 61-79-list > >To: 61-79-list >cc: (bcc: Robert Gunter/HQ/ICN) > >Subject: [61-79-list] Draining my Battery!?! > > > > > >Electrical Gremlin got me! My 70 F100 is pulling 2.5 amps from the battery with >nothing on. I pulled all the fuses and > the current still drains. I recently had a new alternator put on and >suspect either the alt or voltage reg may be the > culprit. Is there a way to isolate these two to determine where the short >is? I don't have a wiring diagram. > (Anyone know where to get one?) Any other suggestions on how to track down >where the current is going? > > Thanks > >Damian These are some of those fun electircal problems... Several things can be the cause... but 2.5 amps is a pretty serious draw... first thing to check are relays, horn relay, A/C relay etc... As far as finding a short... find the hot wire going into the VR and turn your VOM to Ohms, check from the hot wire going into the VR to ground, and see if you have any continuity... you can do the same with the alt, but that is prob. not the cause if you just replaced it... Good luck Brad ------------------------------ From: "Jerry Godsey" Subject: Re: Gearheadgarage Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 13:32:31 -0800 > I was just surfing the web yesterday, and the site: > www.gearheadgarage.com > have their demo FINALLY available, and it works! Took me about > 1/2 hour to download. I recommand it to all the backyard and > frontyard mecanics for entertainment during the long winter storms... I bought gearhead garage a few months ago. My sons and I are hooked! It is a great program, chock full of Fords, by the way. It is fun to tinker with restoring the cars and then sell them. In all, a pretty good buy for the $10 I spent at Fry's. Blessings, Jerry Godsey www.geocities.com/view_from_pew 65 Ford Econoline 88 F-150 95 Aerostar ------------------------------ From: "Luke Phillips" Subject: Re: more 460 head questions Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 16:14:04 CST I have a set of D3VE A2A heads and the valves are stock, 2.08 and 1.65. Yes they have screw in studs. If you have more questions feel free to ask. Thanks, Luke >From: A61fordtruck >Reply-To: 61-79-list >To: 61-79-list >Subject: [61-79-list] more 460 head questions >Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 21:48:33 EST > >In a message dated 02/10/2000 7:16:05 PM EST, listar >writes: > ><< The 3 must be hard to read. Should read "D3VE-A2A", one of three >designs > used between 72 and 74. My current 1974 Lincoln 460 came from the >factory > with these installed. They have 91 cc combustion chambers in 75 it went >to > 96 cc, so they are the next to lowest compression. Obviously the 3 >indicates > it is a 1973 casting design. > Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 >> > >Burt, > >thanks for that information. does those heads have the big intakes or >small, >and are they screw-in studs or press-in? thanks, > >Greg schnakenberg >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Luke Phillips" Subject: Re: cost of rebuilt 429? Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 16:31:18 CST The cost of the rebuild depends on what you expect from the motor. Is it a daily driver? Or is it a dragster? In the latest issue of Street Trucks they purchased a 460 long block from the factory for just over $1400. It just depends on what you want. I am rebuilding a 460 to put in my 67 F100. I have already spent over $2,000 and haven't even had the block prepped yet. The 460 is being built for mild performance. Good luck and I hope that I have been of some help. Thanks, Luke 67 F100 shortbed 240 I6 98 Taurus SE >From: Dlkiehl >Reply-To: 61-79-list >To: 61-79-list >Subject: [61-79-list] cost of rebuilt 429? >Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 20:24:26 EST > >Any idea what I can expect to pay for a rebuilt, standard 429? I'm >preparing >to have one rebuilt soon and was wondering if I should just go to one in a >crate. > >Darryl Kiehl, Atlanta >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "brian whiteman" Subject: 61-67 econolines Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 17:43:14 EST Does anyone know of any parts sources for 61-67 econolines? I am able to find driveline parts and window seals, but not much else. Do I need to go to salvage to replace sheet metal, or does someone make replacement panels for upper-body? The front end was smashed, so would I be better off replacing the front clip or trying to pull out the nose? Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance, Brian '66 Econoline SuperVan 170 six '67 Mustang coupe 289 2bbl ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 18:04:48 -0500 From: Dan Herrmann Subject: Re: Windshield Trim The Stainless Steel Windshield Trim used on the 73-77' Models have the same "C7TZ" Part numbers as the 67-72' models have. So they are indeed the same trim! I just ran the numbers through my Ford man and they are all History! Sorry. All have been made obsolete for some time. Your only hope would be a good set of used trim or to find an NOS dealer that would want a fortune for a complete set. The 78/79 trucks came out with a much more narrow trim. Good Luck! Dan Herrmann ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 18:08:39 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: Chat is back up It's been a productive day so far. The Ford Truck Enthusiasts web chat is back up. The Java VM we're running is a much newer version than the one on our previous server. It should be much more stable. However, as a precautionary measure, it will restart every hour until I'm comfortable with its operation. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 16:42:29 -0800 From: Tim Bowman Subject: Re: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #3 If you're doing a restoration, I've read that one can cut and shape wire of the appropriate size and then manually insert it and bend the back side ends over like a staple. VERY labor intensive; however. -- Tim Bowman Burien, WA tkbowman Brian Wrote: Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:53:26 -0700 From: Brian Koss Subject: Restoration Question The inner fenders on the 66 trucks have rubber stapled to the rear as a seal. How are these staples put in? I can't locate a HEAVY duty stapler that will penetrate the steel. ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #4 ********************************* ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Send posts to small-list If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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