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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 14 Mar 2000 21:35:34 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 21:35:34 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #38
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 13 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 038

In This Issue:
Thanks!
Re: gas tank
429 police engine for sale
Re: Galvanized metal cleaner?
Re: 390 0r 352?
Towing Rig FS
ADMIN: Web based email is now working
Re: What is it ?
Re: Welding
Re: 429 police engine for sale
Updating seat belts
FE Intake Question
FE Intake Question
Re: Updating seat belts
Re: Updating seat belts
Re: 429 police engine for sale
Re: Updating seat belts
Rust Remover
Ford Truck Kills...(or does it?)
Re: Sanderson headers link for Jason
Re: T-18 to 5 speed??
BIRTHDAY WANTS.....
Re: Personal posts, lets take a vote
galvanized metal cleaner
Traveling 5th wheel style
Re: NP 205's
Re: NP 205
Electrical Problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Thanks!
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:48:45 -0600


Luke and John, thanks for sending the link to Sanderson headers.
Jason


------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247 aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 21:40:21 EST
Subject: Re: gas tank

In a message dated 3/13/2000 8:26:54 PM EST, Mouse2Mann aol.com writes:

<< I would like to relocate the gas tank from my '62 unibody from inside the
cab to between the frame rails. Anyone had any experience doing this and
will
share? If possible, I would like to keep the same fill location but will
entertain other ideas.
Thanks.................John >>

John, I did this on my 64 , I used the fuel cell from a 70 mustang . It
fit where the spare tire carrier was . I had to drill a new fill hole in the
bumper, and obtained a flip down liscense tag holder from the salvage yard .
Hope this helps



Steve 64 f-100

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 23:08:31 EST
Subject: 429 police engine for sale

a friend wants to sell this, sounds kind of high, but some one maybe
interested.

1972 429 pi engine, D2OE heads (exhaust ports have been ported), the bottom
end is the same as a 429 cobra jet, it has the good rods, forged pistons etc,
it needs rebuilding, he wants $650.00 for it. i do know someone that paid
500.00 for a set of bare pi heads a few months ago, so it may not be such a
high price after all. if anyone is interested let me know.

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Galvanized metal cleaner?
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 00:15:14 -0500

Since you have gotten all the crap removed from them,try rubbing compound &
then try some Mother's Mag Polish on them.Not sure if this will do what
you want or not --- just a suggestion.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, March 12, 2000 11:42 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Galvanized metal cleaner?


>Folks,
>What works to clean up the galvanized inner fenders and make them look
>new again? I went after mine with diesel/gas/lacquer thinner and managed
>to remove all the undercoating, overspray, grease, melted ignition module
>potting, etc. But they still look like an old Gleaner combine abandoned
>out in the grove for 50 years. Some sort of acid?
>Thanks,
>Brett
>Super75cab
>________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 22:21:33 -0700
From: "Matt" mailcity.com>
Subject: Re: 390 0r 352?

Jason
Thanks for the info; will be purchasing the Christ How to book. I have another 390 to build; supposed to be a webbed 390 removed from a 67 galaxy; know anything about webbed 390? Will measure stroke tommorrow to confirm. Anyways the engine runs smooth, it must have just been rebuilt before they crashed the 67 and sure looks good in my 65.

Thanks
Matt
--

On Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:46:50 Jason & Kathy Kendrick wrote:
> Matt, C6ME-A could be a '66-'76 390, a '66-'70 428, a '64-'77 330MD, a
>'64-'78 330 HD, or a '64-'78 359,361,389, or a 391. The last six choices are
>highly unlikely, because they're big truck engines. Between the 390 and the
>428, you've probably got a 390(much more common). An easy to figure out the
>stroke of your engine would be to remove a spark plug, insert a long wooden
>dowel or wire into the cylinder, and by hand, rotate the engine to get the
>stroke. A 352 and 360 is 3 1/2", a 390 is 3.78"(3 3/4"), and a 428 is
>3.98"(4 inches). On to the heads!
> C6AE-R was for the '66 352 only. However, they are good performance heads
>with big ports, and are commomly sought out and transplanted. 6080R should
>actually read 6090R, which is Ford's code for cylinder head.
> An excellent book to get is "How to Rebuild Big Block Fords" by Steve
>Christ. The ISBN number is 0-89586-070-8. It's an excellent source of
>rebuild know-how, and technical info on parts and numbers.
>
>Jason
>
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 390 0r 352?
>
>
>Casting numbers on passenger side of the block C6ME-A, Right Bank heads
>C6AE-R and Left Bank 6080R. Also Vin on truck C7TE9425E. Does an "S"
>raised number on a 4V mean anything.
>>Is there a book out there that I could learn to identify Ford
>numbers/codes? Thanks for the help.
>>Matt
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>
>


MailCity. Secure Email Anywhere, Anytime!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mailcity.com

------------------------------

From: "Carver" ncwebsurfer.com>
Subject: Towing Rig FS
Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 21:22:06 -0800

I know this truck doesn't fit into the right year categories,
but this is the right forum for a Ford truck. Someone please
forward to the new list, thanks.

A while back I reported an '84 CrewCab for sale at a local
used car lot. I ran into the owner recently and got an update.
I didn't sell a the lot, so he' selling it on his own. If you
are interested in a great towing rig read on.

'84 Ford F6000 CrewCab, 74K miles, 3208 Cat 210 HP engine,
5 speed plus 2 speed rear end, AM-FM, CB, vacuum brakes,
custom camper included with stove, micro, shower, holding tank,
20gal propane 4kw Onan generator, new refer, new fantastic
roof air, storage pod, dlx mattress.

All of that from his ad. Here's my take on it, and my
observations and such from talking to him. He's the second
owner, tow's a huge boat with it. He's heading to Alaska
on a boat in April and will be gone until September. It's
always been in a garage or barn except while at the lot.
it's in great shape. Its a serious hauler. It has an
8000 lb hitch. Regular pickup bed, duals.

Custom ordered this way in '84. A replacement for this
at today's prices would set you back over $100K. I took
a couple of pictures of it and the film/CD should be ready
in a couple of days. I'll post when/where they can be found.

I have no interest in this beyond I love crewcabs, and would
like to see this special truck go to someone who appreciates
a fine Ford crewcab.

It's located about 30 miles east of Sacramento, in Auburn.
Call at 530-823-2338. It'll only set you back $32,500 or
give him an offer.

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 02:01:52 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Web based email is now working

I finally worked out the kinks with the free Ford Truck
Enthusiasts web based email. Before I activate any
accounts, I ask that you visit the sign up page at
http://www.ford-trucks.com/nwmail/index.html

You don't need to fill in the form if you've previously
sent me an email requesting an account. If you don't
agree with the terms and conditions there, please let
me know by this weekend. The terms and conditions contain
mumbo-jumbo needed as a CYA for me, especially in this
crazy world. As with most ISP AUPs, its only there for
the occasional bad apple.

If you have not emailed me a request for web based email,
you can use the form to sign up for an account. I have
over 150 (no kidding!) accounts to activate and will
activate 10-20 per day over the next several days. When
your account is activated, you'll receive instructions.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts




------------------------------

From: pdesantoCinergy.com
Subject: Re: What is it ?
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 04:54:50 -0500

いFrom: "Hogan, Tom"
いDate: Sun, 12 Mar 2000
い (assuming best surfer dude voice and accent)
い Duuuuuude! Talk about your bad carrrrma! See ya, Tom H.
い--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------
Good one Tom, but me thinks your loosing it. :-)

===============================================
いDate: Sun, 12 Mar 2000

いFrom: "matthew i montoya

いSubject: 390 0r 352? I have a big block ford 352 or 390, . Matt

=================================================

Matt- One way to be sure; pull a sparkplug out, run the piston all the way
down in it's bore. (By Hand) put a long stick or rod down in the hole till
it touches the piston top. Make a mark on the stick where it exits the hole.
Now pull it out of the hole and bring the piston all the way to the top. Put
the rod back in and make another mark where it exits the hole. The distance
between the marks is your approximate stroke. The 352 will be 3 1/2" and the
390 will be just a fuzz over 3 3/4" (it's 3.78"). That'll get you close
enough to tell which it is. If it's closer to 4", you are WAY too lucky.
Good luck, Phil












------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Welding
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:10:50 -0500

For thick metal you need to use "forehand" method, that is push the nozzle
rather than drag it so the wire preheats the metal as it welds and the
fillet builds up after the arc instead of in front of it. This can make it
harder to tell what your puddle is doing since the view is blocked by the
nozzle to some extent but a little practice will make it perfect :-) The
actual effect is similar to gas welding where you have to develop a puddle
before adding the wire.

A wire welder will not penetrate to the depth that a stick will, all things
being equal so you need to help it out by using this method. Verticle up is
a piece a cake with a mig with a little practice. Never could get a smooth
bead with a stick in that position :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Me too, I have sears stick welder, bought new, barely used.
>Got the MIG
>and I weld really good now. Thicker metal is NO problem for me
>at all. I

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 429 police engine for sale
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:16:49 -0500

Yeah but.....you're in Colorado right? :-(-(-(-( I may pick up another one
for $100 but it's not complete and I don't know what year yet....waiting on
details :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>1972 429 pi engine, D2OE heads (exhaust ports have been
>ported), the bottom
>end is the same as a 429 cobra jet, it has the good rods,
>
>jeff grant

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 08:12:35 -0700
From: "Richard Currit" state.wy.us>
Subject: Updating seat belts

Hey all, has anybody out there updated the seat belts in their truck?
I'm really tired of just the lap belt in the '72 F-100. What all is
involved? Are there mounts for the shoulder strap hidden beneath those
plastic grommets that are right over your shoulders in the cab? Thats
probably wishfull thinking, but it would make it really simple. Any
info greatly appreciated.
High Plains Richard
'72 F-100

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORDaol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 10:30:09 EST
Subject: FE Intake Question

Hello Everybody,



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORDaol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 10:33:48 EST
Subject: FE Intake Question

Sorry bout the last post.

Anyhow, I have a 4V intake for an FE Id like to identify. Its not like anyone Ive ever seen before as it has coolant ports an either side of the carb pad. The casting # on it is C8AE-9425-F. I was thinking it came off of some sort of high performance application where carb heat would be a problem, maybe even an interceptor intake. Any help you all can offer is greatly appreciated.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Updating seat belts
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:36:41 -0600

> Hey all, has anybody out there updated the seat belts in their truck?
> I'm really tired of just the lap belt in the '72 F-100. What all is
> involved? Are there mounts for the shoulder strap hidden beneath those
> plastic grommets that are right over your shoulders in the cab?

What you have plastic grommets there!?!?!? I'll bet there are mount points
hidden there then ...

Anyone know why my 73 has just bare walls, no grommets ? I'd REALLY like a
shoulder belt in my truck, but can't come up with anything clean or trick to
mount them ... is my truck an oddity for not having the grommets ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: prozelloaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: Updating seat belts
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:55:58 -0600

> > Hey all, has anybody out there updated the seat belts in their truck?
> > I'm really tired of just the lap belt in the '72 F-100. >

I do not know if it is feasable but I am thinking of putting 5 point
shoulder harnesses in my truck. My 65 has just a lap belt, and no where to
put a shoulder belt. The 5 point harness system if installed correctly will
strap the occupants in better in my opinion. besides they look like you mean
business.


Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 08:01:21 -0800
From: "John MacNamara" zhone.com>
Subject: Re: 429 police engine for sale

Jeff: Does this engine have the 70 CJ block or is a 72? There's a difference in
the deck height I believe.

thanks
John MacNamara
Simi Valley

JJJJJGRANTaol.com wrote:

> a friend wants to sell this, sounds kind of high, but some one maybe
> interested.
>
> 1972 429 pi engine, D2OE heads (exhaust ports have been ported), the bottom
> end is the same as a 429 cobra jet, it has the good rods, forged pistons etc,
> it needs rebuilding, he wants $650.00 for it. i do know someone that paid
> 500.00 for a set of bare pi heads a few months ago, so it may not be such a
> high price after all. if anyone is interested let me know.
>
> jeff grant
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.


------------------------------

From: skordikyahoo.com
Subject: Re: Updating seat belts
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:59:30 -0600

I know, that according to the ownder's manual, shoulder belts were available
as an option for my '71. I also have the plastic grommets but have not taken
the time yet
to see if the mount is there.

Steve Kordik


> Hey all, has anybody out there updated the seat belts in their truck?
> I'm really tired of just the lap belt in the '72 F-100. What all is
> involved? Are there mounts for the shoulder strap hidden beneath those
> plastic grommets that are right over your shoulders in the cab?



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 11:37:27 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Rust Remover

Just a quick report on the Rusteco Rust remover that I bought. On lightly
rusted stuff I give it an A+. I had a C-clamp that had been left outside
and developed quite a layer of rust. It wasn't pitted, but it wasn't clean
either. I used the gel on it. It took about 1/2 an hour and it came
completely clean.
I was also using it on the battery box that I took out of my ' 63. Pitted,
a couple of small holes. On this part I would give it a C -. It took off
alot of the rust, but left alot also.
To sum it up. Heavily rusted but not pitted, the stuff is great. Heavily
rusted but pitted, stick to the wire wheels and the media blasting.

Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
' 63 F-100
parts truck


------------------------------

From: "Scott Sanders" hotmail.com>
Subject: Ford Truck Kills...(or does it?)
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 08:57:21 PST


In regards to the Ford truck beating that Pontiac. Did anyone else notice
that the truck red-lighted!? Also the pontiac was applying its brakes
early. I would like to have seen a race with the truck getting the green
light at the start.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.rankinroad.com/03-05-00/UncleJessie-vs-BlackFirebird.mpg

Just my thoughts
Scott S.


______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: dracopacifier.com
Subject: Re: Sanderson headers link for Jason
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:15:03 -0800 (PST)

John wrote:
> here is your link info for sanderson headers

> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson.htm
> HEADERS
> Sanderson Headers
> 517 Railroad Ave.
> South San Francisco, CA 94080-3450
> (650) 583-4590

Not sure if this was quoted from my post, but since then a few
members posted the actual Sanderson URL which I didn't know
about:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sandersonheaders.com/

They've got prices on there too. I did notice that they still
haven't corrected the vertical "B" dimension for the FF-427's.
I quess I should send them an e-mail about it.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4x4
in digest mode



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 11:37:27 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: T-18 to 5 speed??

Look into the Clark variety of 5 speeds. They can be found with a low first
gear as well as a 25% (approx) overdrive. They don't shift as easily as the
new 5 and 6 speeds on the market, but they are real truck transmissions and are
built that way. The problem with the newer styles of 5 and 6 speeds is that
they don't have removeable bellhousings and can be somewhat difficult to mate
to the FE. You might try the NV4500 that was used in Dodge and GM 2500 and
3500 models. Advance Adapters has kits to mate the Dodge version behind the
302/351W and the 429/460 (and the 351M/400 of course). They may be able to
give you some info on putting one behind the FE engine.
Jason

David Cole wrote:

> Hi all, new to the list. I've been on the 80-96 list for a long time, but
> this is my first post here.
>
> Do any list members know of a heavy duty 5 or 6 speed trans that will work
> with an FE?
>
> A good friend has a 69 1-ton car hauler for his drag car. He bought the
> truck new and it is cherry. Perfect custom paint, interior etc. Less than
> 150K miles. Powered by a 390 with performer intake, 750 vac sec, few other
> mods. The trans is a T-18 4-speed. The trans is in need of a rebuild, has
> a bad vibration.
>
> He is looking to perhaps replace it with a 5 or 6 speed. Anyone know of
> one? Also had the idea of adapting one of the 99-2000 6 speeds to it if
> the adapter plate/ input shaft question could be solved. He bought a used
> Gear Vendors overdrive for it recently, but it turns out it is bad and Gear
> Vendors wants $1500 + for a rebuild, plus shipping round trip. Alabama to
> California. Not cheap.
>
> Any input appreciated.
>
> Later,
>
> David Cole
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.




------------------------------

From: Bad4dFillyaol.com
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 15:28:51 EST
Subject: BIRTHDAY WANTS.....

Hey y'all! Probably thought Envy and I took a roadtrip huh? LOL Anyways, my
<18th> B-day is coming up and there's only 2 things I want; both of which are
also presents for Envy. Coincidence?> I wanna sport/light bar and a dash
cover. Anyways, my question is: Where can I find a light bar? In the
classifieds? I don't wanna pay a lot the choices down to "used" LOL> Unless ya know of somewhere that sells them
REALLY cheap. I know in JC Whitney they are about 300-500$! YIKES! I want it
to work so how do I go about checking it before I buy it? I don't offroad
much, but I do want the lights to work...just incase I need 'em! LOL Any
suggestions will be helpful. Thanks y'all!

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys.....trucks are for girls!~*~*
On a side note, my friend told me she heard some girls talkin about my truck
while it was parked at school. I believe she said their exact words were
"Like Oh My God! I wouldn't be caught dead driving that thing to school!" For
some odd reason, I feel insanely proud! =) MY BABY IS UGLY! LOL But hey, it
got their attention, didn't it? =)


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 13:14:18 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Personal posts, lets take a vote

Agreeded wholeheartedly!!!
All of the lists that I am on are very people oriented. Isn't this list about
61-79 Fords and the PEOPLE who own and love them? I am on this list not only
to talk, listen and learn a little bit about Fords, but to meet new friends
that have the same interests as myself. If you don't want to read about, just
delete it, and move on. How hard can it be?
Take care, Gary.
Jason


Don wrote:

> While I don't post to the list very regularly, I have been on this list , I
> think, since it's beginning or very close. While there have been alot of
> times that the traffic has grown so much that I have done mass deletes I
> have learned that purely technical posts are not, IMHO, what lists are made
> of. Whats even more unbelieveable is that a member who posts a great amount
> of tech info and answers many questions, posts a note of a personal nature
> associated with anxiety, and gets a reply like that below, just boggles my
> mind.
> I would hope that while we learn about Ford trucks on this list,we also
> learn to have a little compassion for those people that comprise this list
> and are having a rough time
> Take care Gary,Thanks for the info you have provided this list and that
> which you will continue to give, that others may benefit.
> God Bless
> Don
> 78 F250 4X4 FORD TRUCK
> PS, THANKS to Ken for starting and devoting so much energy to make this
> list possible!
>
> >To: <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
> >Sent: Friday, March 10, 2000 8:56 PM
> >Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Update on my situation :-)
> >
> >
> > > I'm sorry--I don't see one word about a Ford Truck in that message.
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 13:22:31 -0800
From: Scott grossen ucs.orst.edu>
Subject: galvanized metal cleaner


Folks,
What works to clean up the galvanized inner fenders and make them look
new again? I went after mine with diesel/gas/lacquer thinner and
managed
to remove all the undercoating, overspray, grease, melted ignition
module
potting, etc. But they still look like an old Gleaner combine abandoned
out in the grove for 50 years. Some sort of acid?

i used that CLR that they advertise on tv, it doesnt look like it works,
but after about the 4th time you wash the fenders with it it really
starts to clean them up. you need to keep it off of the other steel
parts, and when your done make sure that you wash it thouroughly with
clean water, a hose works well. i did mine when the whole front clip was
on the grond off the truck so i dont know how hard it will be to get
around the engine. the more grease you clean off first the better it
works. if you are patient, you can get them to look like brand new ive
done this with both bodys on my truck and been very pleased with the
results, in retrospect i think i should have just painted them though
because they just get dirty again.

------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Traveling 5th wheel style
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 14:24:23 -0500

Greg Chalmers writes: >>A local company is looking for pick up owners to
haul a variety of sized travel trailers to various locations in Canada and
the U.S.I need some general input on a reasonable set up to allow for
towing camper trailers with a 5th wheel set up.
> With a 1 ton diesel dually in the neighbourhood of $50,000 Canadian
> (tax included) I can't help concidering the option of building a truck
capable of the task for a lot less.
> I have access to all sorts of parts trucks and motors although I haven't
concidered anything other than a 460 which I am looking for an excuse to
build.
> As I will be starting from scratch I thought I'd begin with your always
excellent and insightful opinions and suggestions as to motor
> modifications, tranny options, rear end gear ratios and any other
> relevant experiences and comments on such a project.
> ( I must confess that one significant motivation for concidering this
> project at all is that I have driven long haul tractor trailer for GM
> parts in Oshawa Ont. to and from Athens Ala.and Laredo Texas and am sick
and tired of having to look at 73-79 Ford pickups knowing I have no way to
get these beauties back home. This new opportunity allows me to head back
home with nothing in tow but rustfree body parts and access to
> wrecking yards all across the country. Feels like a bit of heaven to
> this farmer/ford fanatic).<<

Sounds like a very good plan to me. Wasn't it Smith of the "A" team that
just loved it when a plan came together???
I won't suggest anything for your tow vehicle. That is according to what
you are looking for, and your personal taste. With gas prices headed the
way the current trend is, you may want to reconsider your options, anyway.

Athens, Al. is only 15 miles from me. The County seat of Limestone Co. Al.
Come by and see me next time you get down!!
Besides being a Ford truck fan, I too, am an old farmer.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:25:01 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: NP 205's

don't forget that NP 205's came married (bolted to trans) and divorced
(driveshaft running between trans and T case). mine in my 77 F250 is
divorced. with a divorced transfer case you have the ability to lower
the transfer case alone to give a little relief to steep driveshafts
going to the axles. I had to do this with my Samurai after I did a
spring over axle conversion which netted a total of 7" of lift.
(Samurai's came with divorced T case too)

The best way to identify NP 205's that I know of (some of these have
already been touched) NP 205's are completely cast iron, have a PTO
cover mounted high on the side of the T case near where the rear output
shaft exits, and also when viewed from the rear they have a small round
plate about 3" in diameter with 3 bolts holding it down located right in
the middle of the rear of the T case below the rear output shaft and
above the large round plate behind the front output shaft. This small 3
bolt plate secured the idler for the fully gear drive T case. (there is
only a few different gear drive transfer case models made since the
60's) vast majority of modern transfer cases are chain driven including
the NP 203.

I hope this helps a little..
Laters, Danny Ling


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 17:41:45 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: NP 205

'79's could have either the 203 (full time) or the 205 (part time). The 208
was never factory offered in 79. Look at your shifter. If it just has
(going forward from the seat) 4hi, 2hi, N, 4lo it is the 205. If it has any
positions with loc on them, it is the 203. This is assuming that it has the
original knob on it. Another way is to look for a 1 1/2" (approx) round
cover on the back of the transfer case near the rear output shaft with 3
bolts holding it on. This would be a 205.
Jason


Bob Weaver wrote:

> Dear All,
>
> How do I find out which Transfer case I have? I've heard that the NP205
> sits about 3 inches farther forward than the NP208, is that true? I'm
> assuming I have the NP208 and would like to swap in the 205 so I can
> clear the front cross member on my 79 Bronco (because the front drive
> shaft hits the member). I'm also interested in a rebuild kit for the
> NP205 because I'm planning on purchasing it used. Would anyone know
> where to get one?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 18:29:52 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Electrical Problem

While trying to diagnose the poor performance of my 76,I
discovered that I have 12 volts at the battery,but with the
ignition in the "run"position I only have about 5 volts at starter
solenoid, "high" side of ballast resistor etc.
I'm thinking bad ignition switch,any other ideas?

------------------------------

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