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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Mon, 13 Mar 2000 20:46:37 -0500 (EST) Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 20:46:37 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #37 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Sun, 12 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 037 In This Issue: Re: Sanderson Headers Update on 71 F100 Re: Towing Camper Trailers Re: Personal posts, lets take a vote Galvanized metal cleaner? Taking a break Re: F-350 weight My 71' Sanderson headers link for Jason Re: Galvanized metal cleaner? Re: My 71' Re: NP 205 Re: Personal posts, lets take a vote...... 9" rear swap Re: NP 205 Re: Miscellany Re: NP 205 Non FTE Re: NP 205 Re: NP 205 Ford junkyard & S. Padre Re: NP 205 Re: NP 205 Re: NP 205 Re: Galvanized metal cleaner? Re: gas tank Re: 390 0r 352? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Luke Phillips" Subject: Re: Sanderson Headers Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 20:06:59 CST www.sandersonheaders.com >From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" >Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com >To: "Ford 61-79 list" <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> >Subject: [61-79-list] Sanderson Headers >Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 15:11:00 -0600 > > >Could anyone give me the link to the Sanderson Headers web page? Thanks, >Jason > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Idahoans" Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:25:10 -0700 Subject: Update on 71 F100 Some may remember my husband's anguished message about how a quick-lube place had ruined our truck. We finally were able to get it started and take it to a garage we trust. They took one look and saw that the spark plug wires were on wrong, and they swapped them and the truck works fine. I have to wonder if the first place was that massively incompetent, or if they deliberately sabotaged our engine. Anyway, I'm very glad it was that simple and hope we don't have any more problems. Thanks to everyone for their replies and advice, Carla ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 21:35:25 -0500 From: Becky & Greg Subject: Re: Towing Camper Trailers Becky & Greg wrote: > > A local company is looking for pick up owners to haul a variety of sized travel trailers to various locations in Canada and the U.S.I need some general input on a reasonable set up to allow for towing camper trailers with a 5th wheel set up. > With a 1 ton diesel dually in the neighbourhood of $50,000 Canadian > (tax included) I can't help concidering the option of building a truck capable of the task for a lot less. > I have access to all sorts of parts trucks and motors although I haven't concidered anything other than a 460 which I am looking for an excuse to build. > As I will be starting from scratch I thought I'd begin with your always excellent and insightful opinions and suggestions as to motor > modifications, tranny options, rear end gear ratios and any other > relevant experiences and comments on such a project. > ( I must confess that one significant motivation for concidering this > project at all is that I have driven long haul tractor trailer for GM > parts in Oshawa Ont. to and from Athens Ala.and Laredo Texas and am sick and tired of having to look at 73-79 Ford pickups knowing I have no way to get these beauties back home. This new opportunity allows me to head back home with nothing in tow but rustfree body parts and access to > wrecking yards all across the country. Feels like a bit of heaven to > this farmer/ford fanatic). > Sorry, kinda long, please any suggestions/comments? > Ain't getting rich farmin' or truckin' but lovin' my life. > Fraternally; > Greg Chalmers > 79 F100 I6 (lazarus) > 75 360 Supercab > A Bunch of parts and stuff ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 20:26:46 -0700 From: "Kiernan, Denny" Subject: Re: Personal posts, lets take a vote There are some lists where the off-topic stuff really does get out of hand, also where the tone of civility gets completely lost. But I dont think there's any such problem with this list. There's really not that much off-topic stuff. FTE content: You have to crawl out from under that truck once in a while and relax a minute. Denny '72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 22:35:30 -0600 Subject: Galvanized metal cleaner? From: Brett L Habben Folks, What works to clean up the galvanized inner fenders and make them look new again? I went after mine with diesel/gas/lacquer thinner and managed to remove all the undercoating, overspray, grease, melted ignition module potting, etc. But they still look like an old Gleaner combine abandoned out in the grove for 50 years. Some sort of acid? Thanks, Brett Super75cab ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 22:49:55 -0500 Subject: Taking a break From: Jeff Simmons Hey all, I had to take a break, After being gone for a week and not having a digest, man all those post, about 400 total. so after I read through all of them I answered a bunch of them. Then when I sent them all out some how they got lost, I got some kind of message back saying there was some sort of error, And of coarse I cleared everything I answered to as I put them in the out box. So I haven't even looked this box for about 3or 4 days now, and of coarse there was about 100 + post again. I think I'm going to take a break from the list for a while, So if anyone wants to write to me personally, Please do. Jeff in KC jpsimford juno.com ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 22:27:10 -0500 Subject: Re: F-350 weight From: Jeff Simmons My 68' 1-ton duelly with a 12' flat bed weighs 6000 on the money. One time I put it to the test and hauled a load of scrap metal. After I weighed in and out, I had 9860# of steel on that poor truck. Who says Ford Trucks arn't Tough. Jeff in KC On Sun, 12 Mar 2000 00:46:30 -0500 "Gary L. Perry" writes: > Barron, without any real info in > front of me I'm going to give my > thougts? on > weight of truck. First, the door > VIN plate should have the GVW > gross veh. weight) listed. Duallys > usually 10,000 lbs. Single wheels > less, maybe as low > as 8,500 lbs. Truck probably > weights near 5,000 or 5,800 itself. > It won't be > a "dump truck" if that's what you > had in mind. Doesn't take much > gravel, dirt or > load of shingles or ? to be too > much for a 1-ton. I have a 2-ton > C***y that lists > 16,000 gvw and have had 18,000 at > scale even tho I couldn't take the > full > 5-yard bucket full from gravel-pit > loader!!! My 2-ton wieghs 7200 with > me and > gas in it and empty. It's an old 54 > vintage still hauling strong. Hope > this > rambling helps. > > "G" > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. > ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 23:09:22 -0500 Subject: My 71' From: Jeff Simmons One more thing I forgot to ask. I need a grill for my 71'. Mine was damaged when I bought the truck. It was hit on right side I thought about trying to straighten it, but on the edge where it is about 2" wide, mine is about 1/2 in. wide. I don't think I could get it perfect. So if anyone could loate one I would greatly appreciate it. Please write me personally. Jeff in KC jpsimford juno.com ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "JOHN B. HELLDORFER" Subject: Sanderson headers link for Jason Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 21:20:34 -0800 here is your link info for sanderson headers From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" Subject: Sanderson Headers Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 15:11:00 -0600 Could anyone give me the link to the Sanderson Headers web page? Thanks, Jason http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson.htm HEADERS Sanderson Headers 517 Railroad Ave. South San Francisco, CA 94080-3450 (650) 583-4590 . __JOHN__Õ¿ö ICQ#6030753 My Web Sites>> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://clubs.excite.com/comm/area/pw/welcome/main.asp?cid=188005&auth= http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 01:28:22 -0800 From: John Lord Subject: Re: Galvanized metal cleaner? I have used a nonabrasive buffing compound used for cars with clear coat finishes, along with an electric polisher. I picked up a gallon of it when worked as a fit it / detailer for a used car lot. Try to find a supplier of Blue Coral products for detailing use not home use. and they should be able to set you up with something. Brett L Habben wrote: > Folks, > What works to clean up the galvanized inner fenders and make them look > new again? I went after mine with diesel/gas/lacquer thinner and managed > to remove all the undercoating, overspray, grease, melted ignition module > potting, etc. But they still look like an old Gleaner combine abandoned > out in the grove for 50 years. Some sort of acid? > Thanks, > Brett > Super75cab > ________________________________________________________________ > > > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 07:29:42 -0500 From: Dan Herrmann Subject: Re: My 71' Jeff, To get a perfect grille to go with that great looking truck or future restore then I think your best bet is going to be to order a new one from your local Ford Dealer. Amazingly Ford still offers this grille shell for sale. The 71/72 shell is the same. You will want to order part number: D2TZ-8200B . The bad news is the price, Retail: $480.00 . If you have a friend or family member that works at a Ford dealership then you might be able to save some bucks. Dealer cost on this shell is $282.56 . Other bad news is the inserts are no longer available. You'll have to check through the various obsolete dealers to find a set. More good news is that Ford still offers the headlight doors as well. Not sure of the price on them. Good Luck!! Dan Herrmann ========================================== At 11:09 PM 3/12/00 -0500, you wrote: >One more thing I forgot to ask. >I need a grill for my 71'. Mine was damaged when I bought the truck. It >was hit on right side >I thought about trying to straighten it, but on the edge where it is >about 2" wide, mine is about 1/2 in. wide. I don't think I could get it >perfect. So if anyone could loate one I would greatly appreciate it. >Please write me personally. >Jeff in KC >jpsimford juno.com > ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: NP 205 Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:07:01 -0500 The shift patterns are different. The 203 is full time so the shifter knob has a hi and hi loc rather than 2 hi and 4 hi. Don't even have to get dirty to get that one figured out :-) If it's the 205 vs the 208 then look for any aluminum parts in the case which means it's a 208. The 205 is 100% solid cast iron as is the 203 :-) -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >How do I find out which Transfer case I have? I've heard that >the NP205 >sits about 3 inches farther forward than the NP208, is that true? I'm ------------------------------ From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell) Subject: Re: Personal posts, lets take a vote...... Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 07:39:56 -0600 From: Gary R. Peters > Gentlemen, remembering that this is an internet family and an educational > list and self moderated to a great extent let's take a vote: > I personally do not see a problem with a post like the one that Gary sent. Sometimes we all need some support. It seems like about once a month we have to regress to bickering about content. As long as the lists are kept short and don't get to the point where people are personally attacking one another there shouldn't be a problem. Gary I hope that all is well with you and your family, may God bless you and watch over you and your family.... Paul Rozell 65 F100 460 C6 ----- Original Message ----- ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: 9" rear swap Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 09:23:10 -0500 Paul R. Someone else already advised you on swapping the center section and the axles. This is what you should do, but you nead to measure the distance from baking plate to the backing plate on each of the housings 1st. This will tell you if the axles will interchange(same length). The spacing between the spring mounts are not critical for the axle lengths themselves. I think all the truck axles are the same length, but after what I went through just a couple of weeks ago, I wouldn't bet on it.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: NP 205 Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:32:18 -0600 > clear the front cross member on my 79 Bronco (because the front drive > shaft hits the member). Gary pretty much covered the 205/203/208 deal, but I'm curious about this statement ? Is it sagging springs or what's causing it to hit? I'd guess from the factory they never hit the cross member...just a hunch though ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: Miscellany Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 08:52:37 -0600 Well lets try and cover several things here at one shot, I'll TRY and include some FTE content for fun ... > '67 Mercury Caliente 4 door sedan 289 V8 90K mi $1200 > 530-477-1393 > > I personally never heard of such a model and I'm too > lazy to do a 'net search right now, maybe later. > Its a Comet, the Caliente was the V8 "high class" version of the Comet, the equivalent of the Falcon Futura if I remember right ... I've wanted a 64 Caliente Convertible for a while now, after seein a beautiful red vert ... drooooolll.... :) > but hope you > get your life together Gary. My best to your family > too, for they also are having to adjust to you too. I'll second this one, Gary and I don't always see eye to eye, but that doesn't mean I want him injured, it might make him worse! :) Just kidding of course, I do wish him the best. > Since we are on this subject, I feel Gary's post was > fine, appropriate, and he include FTE content. Yup, I don't see why everyone gets so defensive when ONE post doesn't include any FTE content, especially when its a response to another post that does ... also it wasted just as much of my time reading the "this doesn't have any FTE content post" as it did to read the 'get well soon' stuff that I could have also easily deleted ... and then the following discussions ...sheesh ... Anyway onto the FTE content I promised ... This weekend we used my 73ish to haul a 74 Jeep back for a friend of mine ... we rented a 2 wheel dolly to just winch it up on that and air the tires up, rather than trying to winch it up on a trailer (tranny's got a huge hole in it). Anyway as we got onto the interstate I was payin more attention to what was ahead of me since we were headed up a hill and I wasn't sure how long it would take me to get up to speed ... I glanced in the rearview and the Jeep's starting a fishtail pretty bad .. I glance at the speedo "65, crap, I didn't want to be going that fast yet" ... as I let off you could feel the truck start to sway a bit now too as we dropped down below 55 it got better and eventually I was able to get it to stop and bring the speed back up to nearly 60 and hold it ... I'm thinking this was caused by a few different things ... 1) the tires on it were cheap junk yard tires that we had just aired up, almost no sidewall strength in them. 2) the asphalt had sort of a wave in it 'cause it was old asphalt in the midwest on the interstate 3) there was a crosswind that came and went and with 2 high profile vehicles ... Tony had a similar experience earlier in the year with a trailer, so I'm hopin these will help serve as a reminder to those of us who tow occasionally, double check EVERYTHING and then be twice as careful too ... On the bright side the truck did wonderfully, there was some pinging, but I think that's cause I've let the timing drift back up, other than that it didnt' miss a beat, Mapquest claims its a 90mile one way trip, probably a shade more than that, but oh well, I was happy with it :) 2 days and the car comes out of storage, 6 days to the first race ... :) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 10:30:37 -0500 From: Bob Weaver Subject: Re: NP 205 William Sorry. I failed to mention the reason the drive shaft is hitting the member, is because the Bronco is sporting a 8 inch lift. Bob "William S. Hart" wrote: > > > clear the front cross member on my 79 Bronco (because the front drive > > shaft hits the member). > > Gary pretty much covered the 205/203/208 deal, but I'm curious about this > statement ? Is it sagging springs or what's causing it to hit? I'd guess > from the factory they never hit the cross member...just a hunch though ... > > Just my $.02 > wish > > 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L > 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Non FTE Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 10:45:55 -0500 Good luck Gary. I think in some instances non FTE content is OK, and certainly to anyone undergoing difficulties with their personal/familys health.. True this is an FTE list, and we all know that we are supposed to keep on subject. Exceptions are to be the kept to a minimum, but certainly we support you and hope the best for you. We have come to look at the people on this list as "family", and certainly we have compasion for one of our "own"... God Bless!! Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 11:16:01 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: NP 205 Bob Weaver wrote: > > Dear All, > > How do I find out which Transfer case I have? I've heard that the NP205 > sits about 3 inches farther forward than the NP208, is that true? I'm > assuming I have the NP208 and would like to swap in the 205 so I can > clear the front cross member on my 79 Bronco (because the front drive > shaft hits the member). I'm also interested in a rebuild kit for the > NP205 because I'm planning on purchasing it used. Would anyone know > where to get one? > A 79 will have a 205. Yours is hitting because you have an auto tranny I bet. I have a manual and about 7-8" susp lift with 44" tires and it does not hit. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/BRONC_DETAILS/under.jpg The only thing I would do to a 205 is replace the output bearings and yoke seals, because it is easy to do. Otherwise, all the one's I have found were in good working order. They are very hard to kill. OX ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 11:35:45 -0500 From: Bob Weaver Subject: Re: NP 205 James, Do you have any more pics of your truck on the web...just kinda like to see'em. Do you have a dual universal set up on your front axle, or is that just where it meets the axle? So you're saying the manual sits farther forward, ehy? Would you know of any way for me to get around my dilemma, using the current TC and Trany? I'm sure I'll be replacing/rebuilding soon after I get the 460 in, but would just like to have everything running before I put it on the road. Thanks, Bob James Oxley wrote: > > Bob Weaver wrote: > > > > Dear All, > > > > How do I find out which Transfer case I have? I've heard that the NP205 > > sits about 3 inches farther forward than the NP208, is that true? I'm > > assuming I have the NP208 and would like to swap in the 205 so I can > > clear the front cross member on my 79 Bronco (because the front drive > > shaft hits the member). I'm also interested in a rebuild kit for the > > NP205 because I'm planning on purchasing it used. Would anyone know > > where to get one? > > > > A 79 will have a 205. Yours is hitting because you have an auto tranny > I bet. I have a manual and about 7-8" susp lift with 44" tires and it > does not hit. > > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/BRONC_DETAILS/under.jpg > > The only thing I would do to a 205 is replace the output bearings and > yoke seals, because it is easy to do. Otherwise, all the one's I have > found were in good working order. They are very hard to kill. > > OX > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ From: "Michael Ray Jones" Subject: Ford junkyard & S. Padre Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 10:44:05 -0600 Getting older and having a 2yearold happened to S. Padre! I haven't been there since 91, but I think I should go back. This year, it's searching for 77 Ford truck parts, and Shamu! 1-800-397-9648 830-379-2092 Head south out of town on 123 a couple of miles. Look for a sign along the highway. Take a left off 123 and wind down Fox Trotter Road. And ya he has a ton of ford's. Wear boots. Brett Super75cab PS. What happened to S. Padre? >Several months ago (or more) there was some talk about a junkyard in Seguin, >TX (near San Antonio) that specialized in Old Ford Trucks. Does anybody >know the name of the place? I'm going there for spring break next week and >want to check it out! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 13:10:25 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: NP 205 Bob Weaver wrote: > > James, > Do you have any more pics of your truck on the web...just kinda > like to see'em. See http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/BRONC_DETAILS/ http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/jacksonhiddhills/Jimchurnin.JPG http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/jacksonhiddhills/Jimin.JPG http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/MISC1099/Bronc.jpg > Do you have a dual universal set up on your front axle, > or is that just where it meets the axle? It is normally called a CV joint and/or double cardan I think and no I ditched that on the front as I kept trashing the "CV ball" that is between the 2 joints. A non-CV shaft droops farther and holds up better than a CV shaft, no matter what the experts say :-). >So you're saying the manual sits farther forward, ehy? Yes, 3 inches I'd guess based off measuring stock rear driveshaft lengths froma man to an auto truck. >Would you know of any way for me to get around my dilemma, using the >current TC and Trany? How much space do you need? Are you hitting at full droop or are you hitting sitting in the driveway? You can knotch that crossmember and then beef it up under or back further on it, thats what I would do if/when I go auto!! OX ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 15:00:32 -0500 From: Bob Weaver Subject: Re: NP 205 Wow James, nice pictorial, and truck of course. Impressive fabrication on the bumpers, spare tire rack, and skid plates. You're a local too, I'm from just outside Phila PA. I can't even attach the drive shaft to the axle because it hits. I need about 3-4 inches longitude. In order to go vertical, I would have to notch the member considerably in order to clear the path. That would involve then, beefing up the member with supports (welding). I'm trying to get a welder, but I don't know which type would be best. I've tried welding once before with a neighbors (old) machine, and basically failed. Thanks for the advice, Bob James Oxley wrote: > > Bob Weaver wrote: > > > > James, > > Do you have any more pics of your truck on the web...just kinda > > like to see'em. > > See http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/BRONC_DETAILS/ > > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/jacksonhiddhills/Jimchurnin.JPG > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/jacksonhiddhills/Jimin.JPG > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/MISC1099/Bronc.jpg > > > Do you have a dual universal set up on your front axle, > > or is that just where it meets the axle? > > It is normally called a CV joint and/or double cardan I think and no I > ditched that on the front as I kept trashing the "CV ball" that is > between the 2 joints. A non-CV shaft droops farther and holds up better > than a CV shaft, no matter what the experts say :-). > > >So you're saying the manual sits farther forward, ehy? > > Yes, 3 inches I'd guess based off measuring stock rear driveshaft > lengths froma man to an auto truck. > > >Would you know of any way for me to get around my dilemma, using the >current TC and Trany? > > How much space do you need? Are you hitting at full droop or are you > hitting sitting in the driveway? You can knotch that crossmember and > then beef it up under or back further on it, thats what I would do > if/when I go auto!! > > OX > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 16:50:56 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: NP 205 Bob Weaver wrote: > > Wow James, nice pictorial, and truck of course. Impressive fabrication > on the bumpers, spare tire rack, and skid plates. Thanks!! You're a local too, > I'm from just outside Phila PA. > I can't even attach the drive shaft to the axle because it hits. I need > about 3-4 inches longitude. In order to go vertical, I would have to > notch the member considerably in order to clear the path. That would > involve then, beefing up the member with supports (welding). I have an idea, but I have to check on it. I'm thinking maybe reversing the crossmember, as it sticks forward much more than it sticks back (if I remember right). You may need to redrill a whole bunch of holes for TC mount and/or radius drop down brackets. I'm trying > to get a welder, but I don't know which type would be best. a small lincoln MIG, mine is awsome. I've tried > welding once before with a neighbors (old) machine, and basically > failed. Me too, I have sears stick welder, bought new, barely used. Got the MIG and I weld really good now. Thicker metal is NO problem for me at all. I even weld things I need to trust my life to now. I mean it still takes practice, but you will be able to weld the first day with a MIG. Make sure you get a tank and bypass the "gasless" stuff, it just does not work nearly as well as MIG. > Thanks for the advice, No prob, good luck with it. OX ------------------------------ From: "Charles T." Subject: Re: Galvanized metal cleaner? Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:11:45 -0800 > Folks, > What works to clean up the galvanized inner fenders and make them look > new again? _____________-- Take them off, sandblast them, and have them powder coated. They will look new all over again. Charles ------------------------------ From: Mouse2Mann aol.com Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 20:24:24 EST Subject: Re: gas tank I would like to relocate the gas tank from my '62 unibody from inside the cab to between the frame rails. Anyone had any experience doing this and will share? If possible, I would like to keep the same fill location but will entertain other ideas. Thanks.................John ------------------------------ From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" Subject: Re: 390 0r 352? Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2000 19:46:50 -0600 Matt, C6ME-A could be a '66-'76 390, a '66-'70 428, a '64-'77 330MD, a '64-'78 330 HD, or a '64-'78 359,361,389, or a 391. The last six choices are highly unlikely, because they're big truck engines. Between the 390 and the 428, you've probably got a 390(much more common). An easy to figure out the stroke of your engine would be to remove a spark plug, insert a long wooden.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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