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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Mon, 06 Mar 2000 12:39:22 -0500 (EST)
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 12:39:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #30
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 05 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 030

In This Issue:
Re: pigeon forge meet
460 settings
Re: steering slop
Tach wiring
C7ME-A
ADMIN: Mailboxes, slight delay
Re: Idle Speed
Re: Bent Pushrods
Re: Shop Manuals
357 motor????/Power windows/Seats
Not FT, but I though you guys might get a kick out of it
Ford Diesel questions
Replacement parts
Not FT, but I though you guys might get a kick out of it
Re: Replacement parts
Re: Replacement parts
automatic shifter fix tip
1979 f250 ext cab 4x4 running
Exhust flame thrower
Re: automatic shifter fix tip
Re: 428 With a Hole In One
Re: Swing Away Mirrors?
Re: Factory H pipes
Re: Thanks for bed removal suggestions and more on steeri
Re: : Re: 460 Exhaust
Re: Idle Speed
H-pipe application questions
Re: "H" pipe apps?
Re: Sanderson FE Shorty Headers Update
H pipes
Re: 460 Exhaust
Re: 460 Exhaust
Re: 460 settings
Re: Bed Removal
C6 Bellhousing
Re: Factory H pipes
Re: Bed removal suggestions
Re: 460 Exhaust
toploader q's
Re: 1979 f250 ext cab 4x4 running
Re: C6 Bellhousing
Re: Cluch Linkage Part & Bed Removal

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 15:35:27 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: pigeon forge meet

At 01:23 AM 3/5/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Who do I contact to make resorvations with the group thats attending the
>Pigeon Forge event ? I read here sometime ago about there might be some kind
>of discount or group rate ?
>
>
>
> Steve 64 f-100



Subscribe to the mailing list by sending email to
listar ford-trucks.com with the following in the subject of the
email:

subscribe pfgroup-list

Ken




------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 16:07:38 -0500
From: Bob Weaver home.com>
Subject: 460 settings

I'm rebuilding my 70's Lincoln 460, and maneuvering it into my 79
Bronco. A lot of the vacuum hoses are not present, or may be
misdirected. How could I find all of the correct locations for these
hoses. While I'm at it, I'd like to know the "average" settings for
most of the vital components... I.E.: timing, torque settings, advance
etc...
Is there a "how to" book for this swap, or an informative "tables" book
for the 460 that I might find somewhere?

Bob W
79 Bronco
96 Geo Metro baby! (hey, it's only fun at the pump)

------------------------------

From: Brazzadog aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 16:40:49 EST
Subject: Re: steering slop

A couple of years ago, I replaced one on my Jeep Wagoneer. It was $35 from
the local Crown Auto Parts(wholesale only) distributor. At that time I
compared it to the one on my '78 F-250 and it appeared to actually be a
better match to the Ford than it was to the Jeep. Seems like I took as many
measurements as I could with it still in the vehicle. The new joint looked
like it was probably made for the Ford.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4

> Hey, does anyone know where I can get the small
> U-Joint that goes in the
> steering rod assembly right after it comes through the
> firewall. Mine is
> bad on my 79 F-250, and I can't seem to find where I
> can get one. Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 16:09:56 -0600
From: Al Evitts brightok.net>
Subject: Tach wiring

Guys: Picked up an Auto Meter Tach model439-8 at a swap meet. It has 2
double wired cables with ring terminals,one is insulated the other is
not on both sets. looks like two extension cords. also has a small
16ga. wire which I assume is the light. Any body know how this hooks
up?

Thanks

Al

------------------------------

From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: C7ME-A
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 16:32:09 -0600

>C7ME-A 1967-1970 428 block with a 4.13 inch bore.

I've seen this casting number on 360's and 390's too. It's a good block.
Many will bore out to a 428, but you need to sound it first.



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 18:24:06 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Mailboxes, slight delay

The free email boxes will be delayed until mid-week. I need a couple of extra days to get the sign screen ready.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 19:17:34 EST
Subject: Re: Idle Speed

It varies some with the engine model/year/tranny type etc. But from my memory
most v8 automatics target about 750-850 rpm at idle in neutral. Personally I
like to target about 550-650 in drive at idle (usually this is close to
700-750 in neutral). Maintenance manual or the underhood sticker should also
give you some specs if they exist.

My quarters worth!

George M in Fl.


In a message dated 3/4/2000 5:16:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
garrya bellsouth.net writes:

> Well I recently had my carb rebuilt. Its a Carter competition series 600
> cfm. When it was put back on the idle speed in park is about 500 rpm.
> When in drive with the brake on the idle speed drops to about 400. What
> is the norm for idle speed when engine is warm and trans is in gear with
> brake pedal pressed? It seems to be to low. Before the carb was
> rebuilt, idle seemed higher.

------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 19:21:02 EST
Subject: Re: Bent Pushrods

In a message dated 3/5/00 10:04:10 AM Eastern Standard Time,
monkeywrench8 yahoo.com writes:

<< I just bought a used 460 it is a '78 out of a
motorhome.the man I bought from bought it from its
original owner. He said it was rebuilt under warranty
when the fuel pump busted and pumped the oil full of
gas wich killed the bearings.For some reason it was
pulled out again and replaced with another 460 then I
came to be its owner.Anyway I started taking it apart
and the thing is spotless inside but it has 9 bent
pushrods wich I guess is why it was replaced. I was
wondering what some possible causes for the bent
pushrods might be.I am guessing they were too
short/long thevalves are in pretty good shape other
than being a lil dirty.....oh well Iguess i couldnt go
wrong for $200
>>

Got another thought for you. Chances are the gas in the oil did not wipe out
the bearings. The gas most likely diluted the oil to the point where the
lifters could not maintain proper clearance and this noise coupled with
knowledge of the gas in the oil made them think the bearings were wiped.
Hydraulic lifters that run completely collapsed and at a fairly high RPM will
some times bend the push rods. This is because the push rod can occasionally
bounce out of its normal seat and catch on the edge of rocker or lifter seat.
Replacing the bent push rods and priming the engine with good oil may be all
that is required to long relationship with this engine. So do not toss the
bearings until you have checked them. Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 19:25:27 EST
Subject: Re: Shop Manuals

In a message dated 3/4/2000 5:56:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
grunonyahoo.com writes:

> tim:
> keep searching the internet, i.e. hemmings motor news if you
> haven't tried there, you can search for manuals and will find a
> big list of dealers, many with 1-800 numbers. i have the
> chiltons and i'm not impressed with it, nothing beats the
> original manuals from ford which i found through HMN!
>
>
>

For what it's worth - Ive got a '79 Bronco that I maintain with a set of '73
Ford shop manuals (previously went with the '73 f100 I had). These along with
a chiltons and haynes do me well. I tend to prefer the haynes more than the
chiltons though.

George M in Fl.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:27:49 -0500
From: Joe & Jen DeLaurentis p3.net>
Subject: 357 motor????/Power windows/Seats

Group
while junkyard hunting this weekend i came across a 63 T-Bird with get
this
full leather interior, power windows,power seats..I was Amazed!!!Anyway
the engine has a 4bbl on it and the engine tag on the motor says
357????Was
this a FE Motor????Was the 4bbl worth taking??How about the power
seats??
can they be used in a truck??
Joe


------------------------------

From: "Robert Werner" postmaster.co.uk>
Subject: Not FT, but I though you guys might get a kick out of it
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 02:07:38 +0000

This weekend, a bunch of us dumb high-school rednecks took an old Tempo out to a big sand pit and drove it off a cliff (no driver, we ain't that stupid - yet). Went off once, kept runnin, even after somebody put a charge of gunpowder under the hood-blew the hood open. Pulled i up, went off again, except this time it flipped, and it kept running until she ran outta gas or oil, there were clouds of smoke everywhere (beware the DNR). We tried to do the same thing with a plymouth horizon-didn't work. Haulin here back there, I snapped a tow rope twice, then she caught fire before we could send her over (nearly started a brush fire) I know it was probably very irresponsible and stupid to be doing this, but hey didn't you ever do this kinda stuff when you were kids?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 20:26:13 -0600
Subject: Ford Diesel questions
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>

Folks,
My kid brother scrounged up a '64 F100 for sale that has become the
recipient of a Ford 6000 tractor diesel engine. I remember that these
were fairly common swaps 20 years ago or because it was an easy swap.
Does anybody know any particulars of this 6 cylinder diesel?
Displacement? Horsepower? Torque? Ever turbocharged? Can you still get
rebuild parts like pistons, injection pumps, etc.? With the 3 spd OD. it
gets 28-35 MPG and that's got my attention.
Brett
Super75cab.
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: ClemmerMustangJCaol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 21:45:41 EST
Subject: Replacement parts

Question,
Does anyone know of a place that sells replacement parts for trucks. I
own a 1969 F250. I'm in process of restoring it now. I know that there is
some place out there that sells replacement parts. Right now i need 2 new
fenders and 2 new doors. Can anyone help? engine is fine though , thats a
relief!
Thanks, Jon Clemmer PA

90 F150
90 Mustang 5.0
98 Pontiac Bonneville
69 F250

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 19:20:08 -0800 (PST)
From: "D. DiMartino" yahoo.com>
Subject: Not FT, but I though you guys might get a kick out of it



--- Robert Werner postmaster.co.uk> wrote:
> This weekend, a bunch of us dumb high-school rednecks took an
> old Tempo out to a big sand pit and drove it off a cliff (no
> driver, we ain't that stupid - yet). I know it was
> probably very irresponsible and stupid to be doing this, but
> hey didn't you ever do this kinda stuff when you were kids?

Excellent! give me a call next time you kill another car or
two! need to post a photo of your f-series pulling the pigs out
of the pit. oh to be a young irresponsible high school kid
again... and yes i did stupid stuff while still driving the car.

=====
Daniel DiMartino
yahoo.com>
1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 22:35:31 EST
Subject: Re: Replacement parts

Their might be more, but try these for starters. Ive seen lots of parts in
their catalogues but haven't dealt with them personally (soon though).

LMC Trucks www.lmctruck.com
Auto Krafters www.autokrafters.com
JC Whitney www.jcwhitney.com

I just got the auto krafters catalogue the other day. looks like they have
lots of goods stuff for our old fords in there. Ive been out of town for a
few so im still digesting it's contents.

George M in Fl.



In a message dated 3/5/2000 9:48:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ClemmerMustangJCaol.com writes:

> Question,
> Does anyone know of a place that sells replacement parts for trucks. I
> own a 1969 F250. I'm in process of restoring it now. I know that there is
> some place out there that sells replacement parts. Right now i need 2 new
> fenders and 2 new doors. Can anyone help? engine is fine though , thats a
> relief!
> Thanks, Jon Clemmer PA
>

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement parts
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 23:08:21 -0500

J.C. Whitney has all those replacement parts and more.Check it out.
-----Original Message-----
From: ClemmerMustangJCaol.com aol.com>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Sunday, March 05, 2000 9:52 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Replacement parts


>Question,
> Does anyone know of a place that sells replacement parts for trucks. I
>own a 1969 F250. I'm in process of restoring it now. I know that there is
>some place out there that sells replacement parts. Right now i need 2 new
>fenders and 2 new doors. Can anyone help? engine is fine though , thats a
>relief!
>Thanks, Jon Clemmer PA
>
>90 F150
>90 Mustang 5.0
>98 Pontiac Bonneville
>69 F250
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 23:07:50 EST
Subject: automatic shifter fix tip

seems there is enough interest to post this. this is the procedure i used on
the 79 f250, i assume all the 73-79 units are the same.

first you have to remove the steering wheel, the blinker assembly and wiring
from the column, then the plastic trim and the gearshift selector housing, be
sure you pay close attention to how it all comes off, there is a lock ring
and a bearing that must come off to get the housing off. once the housing is
off i drove the roll pin out of the shift lever and removed it, there is a
piece in the housing that looks like a pin it is behind the lever, it has a
screw holding it in, i removed it and found a small compression spring that
is supposed to keep the pin pushed out against the shift lever so that when
you pull the lever towards you to shift it will go back to its position on
its own. the spring breaks and that is the main reason the lever gets so
loose. its also dangerous because it has a better chance of coming out of
park. i didn't spend alot of time looking for a spring i just went to the
parts store and bought a pair of springs out of the brake parts section part
number 2148-2 made by usa brake parts. this spring is not as stiff as the
original and its a bit larger on the outside diameter but it works, i'm sure
i could've went to the local hardware store and bought a closer match.
the other thing causing alot of play, was the holes in the housing for
the roll pin were oblong, so i figured i could drill the lever and the
housing out for a larger roll pin, wrong, the lever is too hard to drill, so
i went to the hardware store and bought two spacers 1/4" OD x 1/4" long x
3/16" id, i drilled the housing to fit the spacers (be sure you drill it
straight) i installed the lever in the housing, drove in a new roll pin, and
installed the spacers, one on each side. then i punched the edges of the
holes on the housing to hold the spacers in,
i finished putting it back togeather tonight and it works perfect, and
its tight as new. with the spring i used it works fine, but a stiffer one
could possibly be better.


hope this helps

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 23:34:27 EST
Subject: 1979 f250 ext cab 4x4 running

this is the $1000.00 truck i mentioned a while back. i put in a rebuilt 400,
rebuilt c6. i've been working on it slowly and finally fired it off tonight,
not a bad truck it seems to be tight and clean underneath, i'm estimating
i'll have about $2,500.00 in it, not bad for a 1979 f250 supercab 4x4, with a
rebuilt engine, trans, when i bought the truck the guy told me he had just
spent $1,200.00 on the rear end and then the engine slung a rod. i found the
receipt on the rear end, two months before i bought it, it had a new dana
4.10 gearset installed, a detroit locker and new bearings. tomorrow i'll
drive it, can't wait

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: "Bob & Becky Elliott" ptsi.net>
Subject: Exhust flame thrower
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 22:49:53 -0600

Years ago in Highschool, I had a 1 ton pickup that I put a 3" exhust stack
on. Trying to be like the big boys. As an after thought, I came back in and
out a Model T coil under the seat, ran a long plug wire up to the top of the
stack, drilled a hole for a spark plus, and put a switch on the dash for the
coil. It was quite a sight to get up to around 55MPH, pull the choke closed,
flip the switch and
light up the road with about 8 feet of flame out the stack. Bob


------------------------------

From: SHill48337aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 00:28:17 EST
Subject: Re: automatic shifter fix tip

In a message dated 3/5/00 11:10:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
JJJJJGRANTaol.com writes:

<< first you have to remove the steering wheel, the blinker assembly and
wiring
from the column, then the plastic trim and the gearshift selector housing,
be
sure you pay close attention to how it all comes off, there is a lock ring
and a bearing that must come off to get the housing off. once the housing is
off i drove the roll pin out of the shift lever and removed it, there is a
piece in the housing that looks like a pin it is behind the lever, it has a
screw holding it in, i removed it and found a small compression spring that
is supposed to keep the pin pushed out against the shift lever so that when
you pull the lever towards you to shift it will go back to its position on
its own. the spring breaks and that is the main reason the lever gets so
loose. its also dangerous because it has a better chance of coming out of
park. i didn't spend alot of time looking for a spring i just went to the
parts store and bought a pair of springs out of the brake parts section part
number 2148-2 made by usa brake parts. this spring is not as stiff as the
original and its a bit larger on the outside diameter but it works, i'm sure
i could've went to the local hardware store and bought a closer match.
the other thing causing alot of play, was the holes in the housing for
the roll pin were oblong, so i figured i could drill the lever and the
housing out for a larger roll pin, wrong, the lever is too hard to drill, so
i went to the hardware store and bought two spacers 1/4" OD x 1/4" long x
3/16" id, i drilled the housing to fit the spacers (be sure you drill it
straight) i installed the lever in the housing, drove in a new roll pin, and
installed the spacers, one on each side. then i punched the edges of the
holes on the housing to hold the spacers in,
i finished putting it back togeather tonight and it works perfect, and
its tight as new. with the spring i used it works fine, but a stiffer one
could possibly be better.
>>

On my 75 F-100 I had similar problems last year. The shift lever pin hole
was egged out and the whole thing was super sloppy. Went to my favorite
wrecking yard (Pasco Auto Wrecking) as I was walking up the counter with the
old one in my hand the guy behind the counter turned around and broke out a
small square box from a cupboard. It was a brand new one, I ask the guy how
much thinking this was going to be 30 or 40 dollars. Almost fainted when
said $9.50, apparently these are high usage items and they just carry new
ones rather than have people fooling around trying to remove them. It was
made in Mexico fit great and I used the spring from the old one very tight
now. So after telling this little story, I do not know if other yards sell
these. However, I am hard pressed to think this is the only place in the
country that sells them. I have since priced them in the LMC catalog they
are around $17, but for a 1972. If anyone is interested I could go back and
ask more questions.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: SevnD2aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 00:30:48 EST
Subject: Re: 428 With a Hole In One

In a message dated 03/04/2000 9:44:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3visteon.com writes:

<< Steve wrote a nice article on this subject and pointed out that his
experience was that there was just something not quite right about the way
it ran but nothing really obvious he could put his finger on. At idle it
might be as innocent as a simple, erratic miss which most carbed vehicles
have at idle anyway and at speed it was just a little bit less responsive
etc.... >>

At first the miss in my engine was almost undetectible except when cold. When
it was warm you would only feel it when accelerating lightly. Totally went
away during hard accelerating and highway speeds. After about a month the
miss became apparent at all times and the oil started to blow out of
everywhere possible. Never heard any early signs of this coming. No rattling
during light accelerating or backfires at all. Well, I didn't drive it when
it was first installed, so who knows what happened then.
I won't let it happen again. I learned my lesson well!
Thanks for all of the input I have received on this subject.
Rollie Hunt
King, North Carolina
1976 F100 Explorer, 391FT(428)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 00:50:19 -0500
From: Dan Herrmann in-motion.net>
Subject: Re: Swing Away Mirrors?

At 10:59 AM 3/5/00 EST, you wrote:
>Does anyone know if you can still get those good swing away mirrors? I think
>they may have come on the 78-79 Broncos and have the "detents" for different
>angle positions. Don't know if they came on the pickups or not....
>
>Most of the aftermarket mirrors I've seen are really kind of cheeseball......
>
>Thanks,
>
>CJ
>
>


CJ, The Factory Mirrors your talking about was the "low mount western
style swing away mirrors". They were available in Bright Stainless Steel or
Black. The black came as part of their "free-wheeling" option in 78/79 and
is now an obsolete part number.

The GOOD NEWS is that Ford still offers the popular Bright Stainless Steel
Mirrors for your Bronco. They are the same mirrors that was used on the
pick-ups. Ford Offered two different versions of this mirror for the
77/78/79 F-series & 78/79 Bronco. The main difference was the size of the
mirror head. Here are the Part Numbers and the prices I obtained in January:

D6TZ-17696A 5 1/4" x 8 1/4" Head - Fits R&L Side. Retail $75.00

D8TZ-17682A 6" X 9" Head - Fits R&L Side. Retail $73.33

Take these numbers and you can order a set from your local Ford Dealership.
If by chance you have a friend or family member that works for a dealership
then they might be able to get you a good discount. Dealer Cost on both of
these mirrors is under $45.00 . And you'll never find this good of a
quality mirror in any discount or Auto Parts store.

Good Luck!!

Dan Herrmann

64 F-100 Custom Cab
66 F-100 Custom Cab
69 F-100 Ranger
75 F-150 Explorer
79 F-150 Ranger XLT


------------------------------

From: pdesantoCinergy.com
Subject: Re: Factory H pipes
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 01:21:58 -0500

¤¤From: Tim Anderson compuserve.com>
¤¤Subject: "H" pipe apps?
¤¤With all this talk of exhaust balance tubes & "H" pipes, does anyone know
what ¤¤applications Ford used them on from the factory?
====================================================================
Tim as far as I can remember they put them on every V-8 they made with
duals. (in the 60's & 70's anyway) Don't know about the newer stuff though.
I quit paying attention after about 79 or 80. My 66 Mustang and 63 Galaxie
both had em. Coincidentally there's a pretty good tech answer in this months
Car Craft (4/2000) about exhaust pulses and the advantages of different
exhaust system designs. Even talks about the problems associated with the
sequential firing of two cylinders on the same bank like we were talking
about here a couple of days back.(428-hole in one?)
Also in another article they installed headers, 2 1/2" duals with a
balance tube and turbos on a 383 "bowtie" stroker motor in a big wagon.
Gained about 60 hp and 76 lb.-ft of torque at the rear wheels. Not bad. I
imagine a strangled 390 blowing thru those little flat things called exhaust
manifolds would fare even better. Sure would like to see THAT test.
Might as well mention there's a story on Fords new 450 hp- 392 w crate
motor too. Nice engine if ya got 6 grand layin around. Later, Phil


------------------------------

From: "George W. Selby, III" ibox.net>
Subject: Re: Thanks for bed removal suggestions and more on steeri
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 03:29:40 -0500

OK, I think I have a way to fix the steering for less than $100.

The Jeep Wagoneer (80-89) steering shaft has lots of travel, and has the
same size rag joint and d-shaft. It is also readily available in
junkyards.

It is slightly too long and has the wrong size column coupler, so it won't
go right in.

Get a Flaming River U-joint, # FR1715DD. This connects to a ford power
steering column on one side, and a d-shaft on the other. It costs $69.95
from Summit Racing, or Flaming River Direct.

Now, attach the FR u-joint to the column. Cut the U-joint off the Jeep
Column (and a little bit farther, so the you can slide a d-shaft in both
ends.)

The Ford shaft is female on the rag joint end, and the Jeep column is male.
Either way, the male part of the Ford column is going to have to come
out and be chopped into a short section of d-shaft.

Now you can either go (1) column->u-joint->Ford d-shaft (male
section)->Jeep female section->Jeep male section->Ford female section (with
rag joint attachment point)->rag joint->steering box; or

(2) column->u-joint->Ford d-shaft (male section)->Jeep female section->Jeep
male section (with rag joint attached)->rag joint->steering box.

I think I am going to try version (2). All you have to do to secure the
male-female connections is put in set screws. Locktite, I think I will
use. This will still even be a collapsable column due to using the jeep
female/male section.

So only expense is the FR u-joint, and a Jeep steering coupler (which I had
for free in my yard, aren't parts vehicles great)

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Nissan 300ZX
82 Jeep Cherokee
85 Dodge W-100
digimanibox.net



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: : Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 06:18:42 -0500

Yes, Pat, I've pointed this out many times. I've had a LTD factory dual,
botched up to fit in a truck, a botched up walker 2 into 1 and custom duals
with no balance tube and a carb I can't tune to take advantage of the
headers and the 2 into 1 was the best over all for this engine so far. I'm
confident that a properly setup and tuned dual system will out perform a
"standard" 2 into 1 but not convinced that a custom 2 into 1, set up right
couldn't out perform even duals as I pointed out in a post last week but
these notions are pure speculation at this point. Someday I may have the
chance to prove some of them :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> I've been reading with interest the discussion on 460 exhaust and
>thought I'd ask what might be a silly question. Is there a
>real advantage to
>running dual exhausts or can the same performance be gotten
>from a well set
>up two-into-one.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 07:30:09 -0500

Idle should be sufficient to keep the engine from stalling at a stop. If it
consistanly keeps running and is not causing any trouble on take off such as
stumbling etc. then I'd leave it but if not there are several ways you can
change it depending on the setup.

Does it have an electric or vacuum dash pot in the linkage? This would be
an adjustable can on the passenger side rear of the carb in some cases or on
the driver side in others but it directly contacts the throttle lever to
control the speed. If not present then there is a set screw with a spring
on it which does this, the same one that is used in both cases, one for idle
speed the other as a throttle stop to prevent the plates from sticking in
the bores etc..

In either case you simply adjust the position of the dash pot with ignition
on and engine running or the set screw til the idle is where you want it.
Remember the purpose of the idle is to keep the engine running at stops,
nothing more so when you are happy with the speed and it is happy with the
speed you have achieved success unless it has to be inspected in which case
they will adjust it to suit the spec before testing it.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>cfm. When it was put back on the idle speed in park is about 500 rpm.
>When in drive with the brake on the idle speed drops to about
>400. What
>is the norm for idle speed when engine is warm and trans is in
>gear with
>brake pedal pressed? It seems to be to low. Before the carb was

------------------------------

From: "Harvey, Blaine" sgc.gc.ca>
Subject: H-pipe application questions
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 08:59:02 -0500

H-pipes were used on 80s Crown Vics, both 302 and 351 with dual exhaust. I
have had both. All police ran them but in regular passenger cars I never
detected a reason why some came with duals and some not. The H-pipes do
balance exhaust pulses, but more than one source I have seens says they were
primarily there to improve low-end torque.


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 08:05:49 -0600
Subject: Re: "H" pipe apps?
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> "H" pipes, does anyone know what applications
> Ford used them on from the factory?

Tim,

When I went for exhaust system replacement on my 88 Towncar, the H-pipe was
an option on dual exhaust systems. My Towncar has a 5.0 liter multiport EFI
setup. They were offered that year with single exhaust, dual exhaust, and
dual exhaust with the H-pipe. The 5.0 engine was the only gasoline engine
available in Towncars that year. I went with true duals to the tune of about
$350 to replace everything after the dual catalytic converters to the chrome
tips at the rear bumper.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: dracopacifier.com
Subject: Re: Sanderson FE Shorty Headers Update
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 06:39:59 -0800 (PST)

Good to hear all is well with the Sandersons. My truck is not my daily
driver and I wonder how things would hold up if it were. I haven't had
any problems with the fel-pro gaskets. I guess time will tell.

What brand copper gaskets did you use? I haven't seen any for FE's, but
I haven't really looked that hard.

Also I am curious what would happen if you did what Sanderson recommended
- using the black silicone with no gasket. Did you try this?


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
in digest mode


------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: H pipes
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:00:12 -0500

J LaG. writes: >>Now, Luke, I'm not saying don't put an H pipe in. Gary
and others have tried
to explain this to me before and I am just thick on this subject I guess.
Why do you want to equalize pressure and run duals? The whole purpose of
duals is to separate the banks. If you are going to install an H pipe, it
would be cheaper to just run a regular Y pipe into a single exhaust. I'm
sorry guys and gals, I just don't understand this one.<<

I don't claim to understand it either but it helps to quiten loud pipes and
the factory put them back in the earlier days when twin pipes were the
"Norm" on the hotter options, so I've always tried to use them.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:19:27 -0500

Thank you Luke! I tried but your explaination is right to the point and
accurate AFAIK :-) A sharing of pipe capacity which tends to lead us away
from the pulse tuning strategy and more toward the larger pipe strategy :-)
Now, if you want it to have maximum HP at 7800 rpm like a nascar for max
terminal speed on the back straight or at slightly less for passing in turn
4 then the pulse tuning can add a few extra hp at a much greater expense in
lab work :-) At that rpm short pipes like used on these cars would lend
themselves to this readily too :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

The ultimate solution would be to
>cross these 4
>cylinders to their opposite banks pipe.. This is what a 180
>degree header
>does. The pulses are even and will scavenge the cylinders better.
>
>180 degree headers are impractical for most vehicles, so an H
>or X collector
>is put into the system to allow the double pulse to cross
>over to the other
>banks

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:22:35 -0500

Just realized I gave credit to the wrong guy, sorry Bill :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Now, Luke, I'm not saying don't put an H pipe in. Gary and

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 460 settings
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:40:47 -0500

Best book I've seen on this is the HP book by Bill Monroe, er sorry, Tom
Monroe :-) Good for the 385 and 335 series if I recall. Some auto parts
stores have it and one of the catalogs has it too, can't remember which one
though? Summit or Jeggs I think it was?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Is there a "how to" book for this swap, or an informative "tables" book
>for the 460 that I might find somewhere?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 07:54:46 -0700
From: Brian Koss mail.arc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Bed Removal

The easiest way is to center punch the bolt head and drill the head off
using progressively larger size drills. You don't need to drill very deep
and you don't have to lay on the ground to do it.



------------------------------

From: prozelloaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: C6 Bellhousing
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:51:38 -0600

Hi All,
I have an opportunity to purchase a C6 tranny for my truck (mines been
acting up for a while). The person wanting to sell the C6 said that it came
off of a 400 modified??? Will this bellhousing and bolt pattern fit a 460???
I figured isntead of researching why not ask all of you.
Thanks for any help.

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Factory H pipes
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 10:53:51 -0600

> Tim as far as I can remember they put them on every V-8 they made with
> duals. (in the 60's & 70's anyway) Don't know about the newer
> stuff though.

Yup, they sure did ... those that had true duals anyway (so the pre86 5.0's
are a Y pipe arrangement) My 96 has/has an Hpipe on it (one from the
factory with 6 cats and one with none :)

Even the Lightning with its over/under arrangement for dual exhaust manages
an h-pipe of sorts if I remember right ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:40:56 -0600
Subject: Re: Bed removal suggestions
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> I can get a bed in very good shape for $100, but I can't get it off the
> truck. The bolts on the bottom which hold it on just spin freely without
> loosening. Any suggestions on how to remove the bolts. No air, no power,
> and no torch are allowed where the truck is, so it has to be a manual
> (labor intensive) method.

George,

Two people and two sets of vice grips. The nuts will either screw off or the
bolt will break. You might try a battery powered drill and a grinding wheel
on the heads, but this will probably be frustrating, too. If accessible,
bolt cutters should turn the trick. A good hacksaw can do wonders. Wrap one
end of the blade with a tissue and some electrical tape for working in tight
places. A cold chisel and a big hammer are the last things I can ever
remember using.

I hope the bolts are what is bad and it is not rounding out the square holes
in the bed.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 10:46:29 -0600
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> Somebody that lives near Gary, get out there and stop him from sniffing
> anymore 460 exhaust, it's becoming evident, even up here in Supernatural
> British Columbia.
> Pat
>
> My next 460 exhaust will have 3" pipes because they sound and look cool and
> will certainly give the engine plenty of room to breath. I may even put 6"
> tips on them just to irritate all the high school jocky's with their hot
> mustangs :-) I still think 8 pipes coming out through holes in the rear
> bumper would be really cool, then put in the spark plugs and fuel lines and
> put a switch on the floor just where the pedal will hit at WOT and have jet
> propulsion too :-)
>

Your idea sounds good to me, Gary. JCW used to sell some one into four tail
pipe tips, zoom, baloney, or pencil tip. There is certainly nothing wrong
with 3" pipes. Jet propulsion.....

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 09:03:46 -0800
From: Clare Waterman-Storer scripps.edu>
Subject: toploader q's

Hi all-

i have a toploader that is getting a worn 3rd gear. It likes to pop out of 3rd
now and then when i an coasting downhill with it in gear. if i put slight
pressure on the shifter, it doesnt ever pop out. It shifts into 3rd fine and
runs in 3rd fine. aside from internal tranny work, is there a way to adjust the
linkage so it holds it in 3rd better?

thanks

clare


-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: text/x-vcard
-- File: waterman.vcf
-- Desc: Card for Clare Waterman-Storer



------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: 1979 f250 ext cab 4x4 running
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 11:22:32 -0600

> tomorrow i'll
> drive it, can't wait
>

Welll? How's it doing ?

A friend of mine just bought another Jeep this weekend, a 74 Wagoneer
w/401... hopefully we're as lucky as you and can get by with just a new
tranny case over ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 11:34:52 -0800
From: wicowboy gateway.net>
Subject: Re: C6 Bellhousing

The person wanting to sell the C6 said that it came
> off of a 400 modified??? Will this bellhousing and bolt pattern fit a 460???

Yes

------------------------------

From: davewildtc3net.com
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 17:48:21 GMT
Subject: Re: Cluch Linkage Part & Bed Removal

Bed removal:
I have had both of these problems lately with my 78's. Just yesterday I was removing
the bed on one of my trucks and could not turn one of the bolts. I know you said
no power tools but The way I solved my problem was a drill and a sharp 1/2 in. bit.
I center punched the bolt and drilled the head off this was the easiest way for
me.
Clutch linkage:
I had to replace the tranny in my 78' three on the tree and all the clutch linkage
was shot. It was so bad it caused the clutch to flutter on engagement. All the parts
can come from the Ford dealer and aren't terribly expensive. The worst was that eqaulizer
bar that was about $110 ,but the adjustment rod you are looking for isn't to bad
if I remember correctly.
Good luck.

David Wild
(2)78' F150's 300 six 3 on the tree

------------------------------

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