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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Sun, 05 Mar 2000 15:29:36 -0500 (EST)
Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 15:29:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #29
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sat, 04 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 029

In This Issue:
Tachometer (Sun)
Re: steering slop
Re: Mufflers
Re: List O' Blocks
Re: F-100 parting
"H" pipe apps?
Sanderson FE Shorty Headers Update
F-150 Track Bar Fix
Idle Speed
Shop Manuals
Shop Manuals
Clutch linkage part
Bed removal suggestions
Re: Bed removal suggestions
Re: Steering slop
Re: Bed removal suggestions
Re: Bed removal suggestions
Re: Bed removal suggestions
Re: Bed removal suggestions
Re: Idle Speed
Re: Tachometer (Sun)
pigeon forge meet
: Re: 460 Exhaust
460 intake manifolds.
Re: 460 Exhaust
460 exhaust
Bent Pushrods
Swing Away Mirrors?
68-72 Armrest Grommets?
Re: 460 Exhaust
Question About 390/391 Parts Interchangeability
Re: Question About 390/391 Parts Interchangeability

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 10:59:26 -0800
From: "James A. Doty" home.com>
Subject: Tachometer (Sun)

Hi there:

My Father-in-Law ran across an old Sun Super II
tachometer in his garage. He'd like to hook it
up in his *hevy, but can't find the manual.

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the Sun
Super II tach? It has four wires, and the only
wires we know for sure are the light wire and
ground.

Thanks...

James A. Doty


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 11:46:35 -0800 (PST)
From: damon obrien yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: steering slop

Hey, does anyone know where I can get the small
U-Joint that goes in the
steering rod assembly right after it comes through the
firewall. Mine is
bad on my 79 F-250, and I can't seem to find where I
can get one. Thanks.


I replaced the “rag joint” on my 72 f-100 I found a
universal one at my local auto part store (I think
“big A”).
Damon
my72fordrangerxlt yahoo.com
1972 ford ranger xlt 390



__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Mufflers
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 12:51:36 -0800


> While cruising along at speed, turn the key off (leave it in
> gear) and pump
> the gas a few times .... the more you pump the bigger bang of
> course ...
> then with it still in gear turn the key back on ... it should
> fire up in
> more ways than one ...
>

I've tried that and three Ford trucks I've had (68, and two 76s) would not
do it. Maybe I didn't pump the pedal enough.

Tom H

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: List O' Blocks
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 12:51:37 -0800


> I just never really knew what the FT stood for. I thought it
> might stand for
> Fear This ! LOL.
>

Works for me. And to borrow from the FE enteusiasts web site "Fear begins
with FE!"

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: F-100 parting
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 12:51:39 -0800


> I also have a question. The Engine from the 78 302 is good,
> and is being
> pulled, and a bad engine is going to part. I have a question
> about the
> emissions, the 302 that comes out of the 78 might not pass
> emissions in the
> 85 F-150. Just curious as to how I could make it pass
> without changing the
> intake and putting all that emission b/s on it
> Thanx much again guys,
> Mark

Hard to say without knowing where you live. In most if not all cases you
cannot put an older engine in a newer vehicle and have it pass inspection.
Not necessarily cause the motor won't be clean enough but because that is
the way the law is written. The (insert your adjective here) lawmakers
figure that as time goes on the emissions requirements get tougher not
easier so there is no way an older engine will be clean enough. Since the
302 is the same displacement and series of motors you might be able to get
by cause the inspection stations I went to rarly if if ever looked at the
numbers on the block. Regardless with cross year swaps the vehicle has to
conform to the newest standard applicable. New engine in old chassis has to
conform to the standard of the year of engine manufacture. Old engine in
new chassis would go by the year for the chassis. This probably means you
can't ditch the smog equipment on the chassis of your truck cause it's part
of what it took to certify that truck.

Best thing to do is to go to an inspection station in your area and talk to
the people there to see what will pass.

Tom H.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 15:53:39 -0500
From: Tim Anderson compuserve.com>
Subject: "H" pipe apps?

Hey Guys and Gals,
With all this talk of exhaust ballance tubes &
"H" pipes, does anyone know what applications
Ford used them on from the factory? I had a '69
Custom (ex Hwy. patrol car) w/428 and it had a
ballance tube on the factory dual exh. system.
Were these used on any of the Hi perf. "civilian"
cars? Ford must have thought that it helped or
they probably wouldn't have bothered to spend
the extra $ outfitting their police cars this way.
I am planning to put a ballance tube on my '67
when it's finshed (this summer ????).

Tim in Anchorage
'67 F-100

------------------------------

From: BDIJXS aol.com
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 17:02:15 EST
Subject: Sanderson FE Shorty Headers Update

There's been a lot of interest in these units so I thought I would pass along
a little of my own experience.....first off, they are definitely worth it.
We've gone over the installation a few times already, (Mark in Southwest
Washington has an excellent write up of this). The only modification I would
make to his procedure is to use copper exhaust gaskets rather than the mickey
paper ones which as we all know, ALWAYS fail at some point....and of course,
use the black silicone still. I had to custom trim the copper gaskets, but
they seal!

Now, when getting the new exhaust pipes hooked up, make sure the installer
does two things. Use the new "dead soft" aluminum collector gaskets, and have
them put two flanges on the pipe before they "mushroom" out the end that
seals against the header.

I've never seen a set of headers that didn't leak at the collector....until
now!!!!!!!!!

CJ









------------------------------

From: BDIJXS aol.com
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 17:02:59 EST
Subject: F-150 Track Bar Fix

I've finally gotten to fixing the "loose-bolt-on-the-axle" problem with these
rigs (I'm assuming the Big Broncos have this trouble as well). I used the
tapered stud kit by Ingalls Engineering Part #4979 (I think they make three
different ones depending on the year, mine is a 76 Dana 44 front) and the
tapered reamer from KD Tools Part # 2044. The stud kit is roughly $40
including shipping (Mountain Truck (303) 776-4603, but can probably be had at
other places as well who deal with chassis stuff), and the KD part came from
the local parts store and cost about $40.

This system is easy to install, just make sure you have a 1/2" variable speed
drill for the reaming operation, or about three days of time if you want to
try and do it by hand. One note of caution: check the depth of the taper very
often while reaming in order to make sure you don't go to far. I stopped just
in time!

All I can say is that while relatively expensive and you may feel like you're
getting reamed, it is a high quality kit and fixes this lame design detail
once and for all....

CJ







------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 17:14:11 -0500
From: Garry Bowling bellsouth.net>
Subject: Idle Speed

Well I recently had my carb rebuilt. Its a Carter competition series 600
cfm. When it was put back on the idle speed in park is about 500 rpm.
When in drive with the brake on the idle speed drops to about 400. What
is the norm for idle speed when engine is warm and trans is in gear with
brake pedal pressed? It seems to be to low. Before the carb was
rebuilt, idle seemed higher.
Thanks
Garry Bowling
67 F100 352 longbed.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 14:40:43 -0800
From: Tim Neasham 3-cities.com>
Subject: Shop Manuals

I'm interested in buying a shop manual to have around when working on my
'69. Unfortunately, it seems the rest of the world is conspiring against
me, keeping me from getting one for under $100. The '68 and the '70 shop
manual I can pick up for about $40-50. Now, my question, is there enough
difference between a '68-'69-'70 to warrant HAVING to have the shop manuals
from '69. Or would either the year before or the year after suffice?

Second question, Does anyone have an extra set they'd be willing to sell
for under $100??? :)

Last question, (for now) Is there a good aftermarket manual to replace the
shop manual. I.E. Chiltons or Haynes. I've looked for both and it seems
Haynes doesn't cover that year, and Chiltons cover's from 68-79 with one
book. I'm looking for something a little more specifc. Thanks alot for
your help guys. I love you man! (Can I have a beer now??



Tim Neasham
Benton City, Wa.
'69 F-250 390 2wd


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 14:56:10 -0800 (PST)
From: "D. DiMartino" yahoo.com>
Subject: Shop Manuals

tim:
keep searching the internet, i.e. hemmings motor news if you
haven't tried there, you can search for manuals and will find a
big list of dealers, many with 1-800 numbers. i have the
chiltons and i'm not impressed with it, nothing beats the
original manuals from ford which i found through HMN!




=====
Daniel DiMartino
yahoo.com>
1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "George W. Selby, III" ibox.net>
Subject: Clutch linkage part
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 18:39:43 -0500

Anyone know where to get the part that gos between the equalizer bar and
the clutch fork. My equilizer bar was jury-rigged, and the holes were all
worn out. I have a replacement equalier bar in good shape, but the
fabricated linkage bar will no longer fit.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Nissan 300ZX
82 Jeep Cherokee
85 Dodge W-100
digiman ibox.net


------------------------------

From: "George W. Selby, III" ibox.net>
Subject: Bed removal suggestions
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 18:42:01 -0500

I can get a bed in very good shape for $100, but I can't get it off the
truck. The bolts on the bottom which hold it on just spin freely without
loosening. Any suggestions on how to remove the bolts. No air, no power,
and no torch are allowed where the truck is, so it has to be a manual
(labor intensive) method.


George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Nissan 300ZX
82 Jeep Cherokee
85 Dodge W-100
digiman ibox.net


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Bed removal suggestions
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 16:07:04 -0800


> I can get a bed in very good shape for $100, but I can't get
> it off the
> truck. The bolts on the bottom which hold it on just spin
> freely without
> loosening. Any suggestions on how to remove the bolts. No
> air, no power,
> and no torch are allowed where the truck is, so it has to be a manual
> (labor intensive) method.
>

get a nut splitter. works with standard wrenches and will basically
squeeze the nut between an anvil and a chisel shaped device until the nut
splits and falls off. Otherwise maybe a cold chisel and a mallet on the
bolt head in the bed.

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: "George W. Selby, III" ibox.net>
Subject: Re: Steering slop
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 19:05:13 -0500

I don't think you can. I have asked everywhere, and no one has it. Ford
didn't sell it seperately, they sold the whole part between column and
steering box as one piece, and they don't sell it no more.

You can get a replacement assembly from Borgeson, but you have to cut it to
fit.

Flaming River makes a kit, for $229.

They best solution for the time seems to be to chop off the u-joint and
replace it with new parts welded on. A fellow list member gave me these
three spicer part numbers as being the 2 yokes and u-joint you need. They
are:

10-40431SX
5-170X
10-4-13

I have not verified these yet, so can't vouch for them being good, although
he did send me a picture.

Another list member sent me the part number for his 69 F-150, but the
U-joint that came from napa was far too large on the end caps (almost an
inch,) It is NAPA #861.

Here's what I'm trying now: I have a parts Jeep Wagoneer. The coupler
shaft in it has the same size double-d part, and the rag joint is the same.
The only difference is the end that connects to the steering column is too
big around (way to big.) And it is about 6 inches too long, but it has
enough travel that it can be choppd out. So I'm trying to see if an
adaptor between the two size shafts at the column can be fabricated. My
rag joint is fried, too.

George Selby
78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
86 Nissan 300ZX
82 Jeep Cherokee
85 Dodge W-100
digiman ibox.net


------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 19:14:29 EST
Subject: Re: Bed removal suggestions

In a message dated 3/4/00 7:09:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com writes:

> get a nut splitter. Otherwise maybe a cold chisel and a
mallet on > the bolt head in the bed.

I agree on the "nut splitter", but I wouldn't subscribe to the chisel on the
bed side. There is not enough metal to support the bolt up there and it will
likely damage the bed. The chisel on the chassis side is better. Use the
chisel and hammer the same way (split the nut by striking it on one of the
hex faces perpendicular to the nut).

Stock Man
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 19:34:36 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Bed removal suggestions


>
>
> > get a nut splitter. Otherwise maybe a cold chisel and a
>mallet on > the bolt head in the bed.

Or on the expensive side, get a cordless Dremel and a pack of cutting
wheels. Double up the wheels and be careful not to twist it once you get a
cut started. Ask me how I know. Comes in REAL handy in tight spaces.




Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
' 63 F-100
parts truck


------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 20:30:46 EST
Subject: Re: Bed removal suggestions

In a message dated 3/4/00 6:52:15 PM Eastern Standard Time, digiman ibox.net
writes:

<< can get a bed in very good shape for $100, but I can't get it off the
truck. The bolts on the bottom which hold it on just spin freely without
loosening. Any suggestions on how to remove the bolts. No air, no power,
and no torch are allowed where the truck is, so it has to be a manual
(labor intensive) method.
>>

Did you have some one standing on the head of the bolt? And did you soak the
threads with some type of penitrating oil? This last year I the opportunity
to remove 4 boxes from old trucks successfully using this method. If all of
that does not work, how about one of these portable generators that just
about every other person has that was preparing for Y2K and a SawsAll. At
this point I read ahead and agree that a nut spliter sounds really good if
you can find one that size. But if you're really into this try one of these
handles that hold a hacksaw blade and use lots of WD-40 or equivalent. Get
comfortable and go to work, it will come off. Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 21:42:45 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie home.com>
Subject: Re: Bed removal suggestions

Hammer, chisel, and patients ;)

"George W. Selby, III" wrote:
>
> I can get a bed in very good shape for $100, but I can't get it off the
> truck. The bolts on the bottom which hold it on just spin freely without
> loosening. Any suggestions on how to remove the bolts. No air, no power,
> and no torch are allowed where the truck is, so it has to be a manual
> (labor intensive) method.
>
> George Selby
> 78 F-150 400M, 4 on floor, 4x4
> 86 Nissan 300ZX
> 82 Jeep Cherokee
> 85 Dodge W-100
> digimanibox.net
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 21:44:36 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed

Curb idle for the auto should be right at 650 in nuetral.

Garry Bowling wrote:

> Well I recently had my carb rebuilt. Its a Carter competition series 600
> cfm. When it was put back on the idle speed in park is about 500 rpm.
> When in drive with the brake on the idle speed drops to about 400. What
> is the norm for idle speed when engine is warm and trans is in gear with
> brake pedal pressed? It seems to be to low. Before the carb was
> rebuilt, idle seemed higher.
> Thanks
> Garry Bowling
> 67 F100 352 longbed.
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

--
Craig
--
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc



------------------------------

From: "White Wolf" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tachometer (Sun)
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 20:20:32 PST

I have a Sun Pro with 4 wires; green - neg coil, black - ground, white -
lights, red - key on power.


>From: "James A. Doty" home.com>
>Reply-To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Tachometer (Sun)
>Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 10:59:26 -0800
>
>Hi there:
>
> My Father-in-Law ran across an old Sun Super II
> tachometer in his garage. He'd like to hook it
> up in his *hevy, but can't find the manual.
>
> Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the Sun
> Super II tach? It has four wires, and the only
> wires we know for sure are the light wire and
> ground.
>
> Thanks...
>
> James A. Doty
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247aol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 01:23:32 EST
Subject: pigeon forge meet

Who do I contact to make resorvations with the group thats attending the
Pigeon Forge event ? I read here sometime ago about there might be some kind
of discount or group rate ?



Steve 64 f-100

------------------------------

From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: : Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 22:31:33 -0800

Howdy Folks,
I've been reading with interest the discussion on 460 exhaust and
thought I'd ask what might be a silly question. Is there a real advantage to
running dual exhausts or can the same performance be gotten from a well set
up two-into-one. I know on bikes a single can do wonders and I kinda like
the higher rpm sound of a single
Pat
Patsplace
77 F250 4X4
78 F150 W/Overloads
72 Ranger parts truck
79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction)
78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT.










------------------------------

From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: 460 intake manifolds.
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 22:35:22 -0800

I'm baack! Howdy again with the same request for great deals. Josh had a
Performer manifold for me but then his deal on the RPM fell through so I'm
still looking for a 460 intake manifold. Something like the Performer,
Stealth or Wedge. Unless you know of something that I don't that will work
well in an F250 4x4. The idea is good fuel economy and a smooth running
engine.
Pat
Patsplace
77 F250 4X4
78 F150 W/Overloads
72 Ranger parts truck
79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction)
78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT.








------------------------------

From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 22:59:56 -0800

Somebody that lives near Gary, get out there and stop him from sniffing
anymore 460 exhaust, it's becoming evident, even up here in Supernatural
British Columbia.
Pat

My next 460 exhaust will have 3" pipes because they sound and look cool and
will certainly give the engine plenty of room to breath. I may even put 6"
tips on them just to irritate all the high school jocky's with their hot
mustangs :-) I still think 8 pipes coming out through holes in the rear
bumper would be really cool, then put in the spark plugs and fuel lines and
put a switch on the floor just where the pedal will hit at WOT and have jet
propulsion too :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--




------------------------------

From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: 460 exhaust
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 23:04:10 -0800

Somebody that lives near Gary, get over there and stop him from sniffing
anymore 460 exhaust, his exhaust habit is becoming evident, even up here in
Supernatural British Columbia.
Pat
Patsplace
77 F250 4X4
78 F150 W/Overloads
72 Ranger parts truck
79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction)
78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT.

--My next 460 exhaust will have 3" pipes because they sound and look cool
and
will certainly give the engine plenty of room to breath. I may even put 6"
tips on them just to irritate all the high school jocky's with their hot
mustangs :-) I still think 8 pipes coming out through holes in the rear
bumper would be really cool, then put in the spark plugs and fuel lines and
put a switch on the floor just where the pedal will hit at WOT and have jet
propulsion too :-)

Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--





------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 07:02:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Nick Jessee yahoo.com>
Subject: Bent Pushrods

I just bought a used 460 it is a '78 out of a
motorhome.the man I bought from bought it from its
original owner. He said it was rebuilt under warranty
when the fuel pump busted and pumped the oil full of
gas wich killed the bearings.For some reason it was
pulled out again and replaced with another 460 then I
came to be its owner.Anyway I started taking it apart
and the thing is spotless inside but it has 9 bent
pushrods wich I guess is why it was replaced. I was
wondering what some possible causes for the bent
pushrods might be.I am guessing they were too
short/long thevalves are in pretty good shape other
than being a lil dirty.....oh well Iguess i couldnt go
wrong for $200

__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------

From: BDIJXSaol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 10:59:20 EST
Subject: Swing Away Mirrors?

Does anyone know if you can still get those good swing away mirrors? I think
they may have come on the 78-79 Broncos and have the "detents" for different
angle positions. Don't know if they came on the pickups or not....

Most of the aftermarket mirrors I've seen are really kind of cheeseball......

Thanks,

CJ



------------------------------

From: BDIJXSaol.com
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 10:59:26 EST
Subject: 68-72 Armrest Grommets?

Does anyone have any spares of those little plastic screw grommets that hold
the bolts in for the armrests? Maybe a Ford part number????

There are three on each side, and they seem to be kind of "angled".....

Thanks!

CJ



------------------------------

From: ballingrbootheel.net
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 10:24:43 -0600

Now, Luke, I'm not saying don't put an H pipe in. Gary and others have tried
to explain this to me before and I am just thick on this subject I guess.
Why do you want to equalize pressure and run duals? The whole purpose of
duals is to separate the banks. If you are going to install an H pipe, it
would be cheaper to just run a regular Y pipe into a single exhaust. I'm
sorry guys and gals, I just don't understand this one.
>>>>

John,

The reason to put an H or an X in the exhaust on a V8 is that each bank of
cylinders has a point in the firing order where two cylinders are firing
after one another into the same pipe. This causes a disturbance in the
pulse of the bank and a temporary overload of the capacity of the manifold
or collector and the pipe. On the passenger side bank it's 4 and 2. On the
drivers side it's 7 and 8. The ultimate solution would be to cross these 4
cylinders to their opposite banks pipe.. This is what a 180 degree header
does. The pulses are even and will scavenge the cylinders better.

180 degree headers are impractical for most vehicles, so an H or X collector
is put into the system to allow the double pulse to cross over to the other
banks unused capacity in it's pipe, keeping the pulse stable and preventing
overload. It's not as good as a true 180 degree header, but it's practical
for any vehicle. Dr. Gas makes high flow H and X collectors as well as
mandrel bent elbows for performance exhaust systems. Many of their products
are used in NASCAR.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 09:27:17 -0700
From: Bradley Zatzke worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Question About 390/391 Parts Interchangeability

Hi All,
I'm looking for a source of information on FE motor
casting numbers. I have seen several posts in the past year

that have helped but I would like to get my hands on a book
with all the specifics.
In the mean-time I'll see if you guys can help with a
couple of castings that I'm curious about...I have several
sets of heads that are C8AE-H. One set that is D2TEAA, and
a couple of blocks that are C7ME-A. All this came from what
I believe was a '68 360, a '68 390, a '69 391 and a '70
360. I'm going to build a motor for my '70 4X4 shortbed and

I'd like to use the 391 crank combined with the highest
compression heads that I have. Just by visual inspection I
can see that the 391 rods are much sturdier than the
360/390s, so I'd like to use those. Will the "3U" crank be
any trouble being .010 longer stroke? Any other suggestions
would be welcome.


Brad
"Even has a Ford clock in the computer room"




------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Question About 390/391 Parts Interchangeability
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 12:30:38 -0800


> Hi All,
> I'm looking for a source of information on FE motor
> casting numbers. I have seen several posts in the past year
> that have helped but I would like to get my hands on a book
> with all the specifics.


"HOW TO REBUILD BIG BLOCK FORD ENGINES" by Steve Christ published by
HPBooks available at the FTE web site.

> In the mean-time I'll see if you guys can help with a
> couple of castings that I'm curious about...I have several
> sets of heads that are C8AE-H. One set that is D2TEAA, and
> a couple of blocks that are C7ME-A. All this came from what
> I believe was a '68 360, a '68 390, a '69 391 and a '70
> 360. I'm going to build a motor for my '70 4X4 shortbed and
>

C8AE-H 1968 Head listed next to C8AE-A which have the description 68 std
360, 390, 428 with air at 67.1-70.1cc. C8AE-H do not list a description but
do list volume at 68.1-71.1cc

D2TEAA 72-76 std 360, 390, 428 w/o air 68.1-71.1 cc

C7ME-A 1967-1970 428 block with a 4.13 inch bore.


> I'd like to use the 391 crank combined with the highest
> compression heads that I have. Just by visual inspection I
> can see that the 391 rods are much sturdier than the
> 360/390s, so I'd like to use those. Will the "3U" crank be
> any trouble being .010 longer stroke? Any other suggestions
> would be welcome.
>
>
> Brad
> "Even has a Ford clock in the computer room"

What is the casting number on the connecting rods.

C7TE-A is listed as a 330HD part length 6.54 in
D1TE-A AND C6AE-C are both listed for both standard 390 and 391. length
6.488 in.

Before your block is decked its deck height should be 10.17 inches. The 391
crank is listed as a 3.79 in. So it depends on the compression height of
your pistons. If you have the long rods you can have a compression heigh up
to 1.735 for a 0 deck height. With the short rod your compression height
can be 1.787. Ford had the deck clearance as low as .0005 inches in some of
the FE motors.

Tom H.

------------------------------

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