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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Fri, 03 Mar 2000 13:28:17 -0500 (EST)
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 13:28:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #27
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Thu, 02 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 027

In This Issue:
Re: 460 Exhaust
Re: 460 Exhaust
71 for sale, i saw a unibody.
electric choke Edelbrock
Re: Fw: FWD: Gas out!
floppy automatic shift lever fix
Removable Floor Pans
460 Exhaust
Re: 360 questions
Re: 460 Exhaust
Re: 460 Exhaust
Fuel Injection
460 swap
Crush sleeve
428 piston
Fuel spouting
Replacement for the Variable Venturi Carb
Piston ID
Re: Replacement for the Variable Venturi Carb
Re: Replacement for the Variable Venturi Carb
Customer Service (was: Mufflers)
Re: 460 exhaust
Re: exhaust and sound files!
Re: 460 exhaust
Re: 460 exhaust
leaking gastank
Re: Removable Floor Pans
Re: parting out a 69 and a 64
Re: 351 INFO
Re: leaking gastank
Re: 351 INFO
Re: 460 exhaust
Re: 360 questions
Re: Piston ID
Re: 428 piston
Re: floppy automatic shift lever fix
Re: leaking gastank
Re: 351 INFO

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Luke Phillips" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:35:12 CST

Gary,
Thank you for your insite on 2 1/2" or 3" exhaust. I talked to my
(mechanics) at work. They told me that 3" would be just fine. Just make sure
I run an "H" or "X" in the pipe before the mufflers. That will help equalize
pressure.

I have purchased Sanderson Street Rod headers, Edelbrock Performer intake,
Holley 750 carb, Comp Cams 270H 519 lift "K" kit, Keith Black 10.2:1
pistons, Speed Pro rings. I hope this combination will work. If anyone has
or had this combo, your feedback is greatly appreciated!
Thanks again Gary!

Luke Phillips
67 F100 shortbed 240 I6 (460 in the works!)


>From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: "'61-79-list ford-trucks.com'" <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 460 Exhaust
>Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 08:33:59 -0500
>
>Well, exhaust is a part of the tune but the tuned portion of the exhaust
>influence only happens at one rpm, very specifically so unless you are
>attempting to get absolute, lab, max torque at say 1800 rpm for best
>passing
>performance the size, once large enough to do the job is not too important
>IMHO. Dragsters with 9-10k rpm operation ranges use 12" pipes with zero
>back pressure. Trucks that are heavy and move relatively less fast don't
>need or even want that kind of system. Longer, smaller diameter pipe works
>better for low rpm, high torque engines and it has nothing to do with "back
>pressure" in the sense of PSI measurement, it has to do with resonance
>tuning which uses sound waves to augment the air flow in the pipe and help
>time the pulses perfectly with the valve openings. This only really works
>on a stationary engine running at a constant rpm so what we generally want
>is a free flowing system with enough length to average out the pulses for
>some median resonance which does not "interfere" with the flow. This
>leaves
>us with a fairly wide range of sizes and diameters to play with which is
>quite evident when you look at what the factorys are putting on the new
>stuff.
>
>Theory is great fun but in this case has little impact on the performance.
>2.5 or 3 or 3.5 doesn't matter much as long as it isn't kinked and the cats
>are not plugged and the mufflers are not restrictive etc.... From my
>experience and reading, once you get enough room to evacuate the cylinders
>with little or no back pressure from the flow itself you have all you are
>going to get unless you want to split hairs as they say which not one of us
>is in a position to be able to benifit from so don't waste money on fancy,
>high efficiency, do nothing parts unless you just want the prestige or the
>look etc...
>
>Certain parts do have a proven advantage under certain conditions and in
>certain applications such as headers and some applications already come
>with
>restrictive systems so will certainly gain from these mods but if you don't
>also tune the intake to compensate for the change in evacuation performance
>then the engine can actually run worse when you put them on. It all needs
>to be considered together when you do these things.
>
>That being said then, if you want good low end performance and want to
>maximize this at the sacrifice of top end performance then go with the 2.5"
>pipe but if you think you would like to be able to rev past 5k rpm in
>second
>for that emergency pass then 3" would be better. Since the 460 has gobbs
>of
>torque even when it runs poorly your low end will undoubtedly be sufficient
>in any case. Just make sure that you are prepared to make some changes to
>the tune including possible jet changes if you go to a really efficient
>system, especially if you install headers.
>
>There will be arguments to this post but I will refrain from attempting to
>challenge or answer them. We've been all through this discussion many
>times
>and we have proven that we have varied "opinions" on the subject. This is
>my "opinion" :-)
>
>--
>Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>--
>
> >I am building a 460 for my 67 F100. Should I run a 3" or 2
> >1/2" exhaust
> >system? How much back pressure do the heads require? I have already
> >purchased 3" Flowmaster mufflers. I've been told just recently
> >that 2 1/2"
> >is the way to go. I need the advice from experts. Thanks in advance.
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 00:01:00 -0500

I work with a guy who ha a 390 in his '75 4X4 & it has 3" Exhaust on it.Man
does it sound AWESOME!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: Luke Phillips hotmail.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-truck.com <61-79-list ford-truck.com>
Date: Thursday, March 02, 2000 1:17 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] 460 Exhaust


>I am building a 460 for my 67 F100. Should I run a 3" or 2 1/2" exhaust
>system? How much back pressure do the heads require? I have already
>purchased 3" Flowmaster mufflers. I've been told just recently that 2 1/2"
>is the way to go. I need the advice from experts. Thanks in advance.
>
>Luke Phillips
>67 F100 shortbed 240 I6 (soon to be 460!)
>______________________________________________________
> >
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Daniel R. Olinick" hotmail.com>
Subject: 71 for sale, i saw a unibody.
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 23:02:48 -0600

Hi. I have a 1971 f100 with a 360 and 3 speed and it's
a long bed. Today a man saw me driving it and told me
he had a 71 for sale just like mine except his is an automatic.
He wants to sell it for $300-$400 as a parts truck. He said it
runs but has a knock. I am not sure what engine it has. He also
said it had the original paint on it(black) and a small dent in the bed.
possibly it has no rust. We are in San Antonio, TX. my truck has
some rust on the doors in the bed and small rust areas along the seams.
I've been told the kind of rust my truck has all ove was caused by
the salt air. That it came from somewhere by the ocean.
anyway I might go look at the truck. I don't know if I should buy a "parts"
truck. I want to know if it would be a good investment for me.
I would like to have a pretty well restored truck someday but I can't
afford to spend much money on it right now. Is anyone on the list
interested in the truck? oh, the rear window has been shot out.
I haven't seen it yet.

I don't know much about these things but I believe spotted
a ford unibody pick-up here in San Antonio. It has been parked
in someones yard for a long time. It probably isn't running and
I think it might be parked on its flat tires. I haven't seen it up close
so I don't know what condition it is in or what the owners are planning
to do with it.

Daniel Olinick (dolinick hotmail.com)

------------------------------

From: borrani att.net
Subject: electric choke Edelbrock
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 03:36:20 +0000

Hey all,
Just bout a practically new and unused Edelbrock 750
electric choke, mech secondary carb on Ebay. My current
Holley 600 does not have the choke hooked up (bought
truck a month ago). What will I have to do to hook up
the electric choke? What supplies should I be getting
while the carb gets sent to me?
Truck is a '75 F-250 w/460 on stock intake (anyone got a
Performer to sell cheap?).

Steve S.
Seattle, WA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 00:21:25 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: FWD: Gas out!

Let's keep the chain mail off the list. I've received this
same email over 30 times in the last 4 days.

Thanks,
Ken Payne




------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 00:22:12 EST
Subject: floppy automatic shift lever fix

i was tired of the floppy atomatic shift lever on the column, so i fixed it
for less than $5.00 and its probably tighter than new. if anyone else is
interested to know how it was done let me know. i just don't want to do all
that typing if no one is interested.

thanks, jeff grant

------------------------------

From: WhtsUpDoc2 aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 00:36:09 EST
Subject: Removable Floor Pans

< The removable floorpan over the tranny was the norm from the beginning.
> It made servicing the tranny from the top possible, especially easy on
> top-cover-shifted manuals. Then the bean counters discovered this wasted
> effort on automatic equipped trucks that had no removable top cover for
> servicing. Automatics quit cutting them out and bolting in the separate
> plate.

My '78 F-250 has the floor panel only stamped, but I still couldn't tell
ya the first year that started. The bolt on sure would have be nice during
the rebuild though!

Jason Warner
Yukon, Oklahoma
'78 F-250 Custom 460; C-6 Auto

------------------------------

From: WhtsUpDoc2aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 00:48:25 EST
Subject: 460 Exhaust

While we're on the subject of exhaust...
I'm sort of in the same situation. My 460 has single 1 3/4" exhaust! I want
to put on duals and drop it off with elbows to the ground right past the cab
to the next cross member. First of all... anybody have any pro's and con's
for taking it on out to the back or the sides? Secondly, I had asked around
about dual 3" , and I was told that would take too much back pressure off.
So I might just stick with 2 1/2". Thirdly, does anybody know the price
difference? I was given a qoute for dual 2 1/2" with 12" glass packs-
$120.00, but I hear 3" is outrageous. Thanks everybody, I can take all the
advice I can!

Jason Warner
Yukon, Oklahoma
'78 F-250 Custom 460; C-6 Auto
"The Heartbeat just stopped!"

------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: 360 questions
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 02:15:16 -0600

Jeff, I would think the blown FE engine would be too radical for a truck
engine, unless you want to turn your truck into a weekend toy. It really
depends on the actual specs of the engine and what it was built for. In this
case, it sounds like it was meant to be run in a fairly light car that was
set up to drag race. If the price was right, you'd probably have better luck
buying the motor, advertising it, and selling it at a profit. What's it
worth? It really depends on what's in the engine as far as parts goes. The
blower manifold is worth quite a bit, because of it's rarity. If the
blower(case, gears, and rotors) is in good shape it's worth quite a bit
also.
Just my thoughts...
Jason Kendrick
===============================================
Subject: [61-79-list] 360 questions


>My M-block and I have unfortunately ignored most posts regarding the
360/390
>& FE motors; one just popped up in a friend's garage, apparently a serious
>build-up for a long-gone (60s) Mustang, and we have no idea what it's
worth.
>
not smog-legal - the huge blower sitting on top gave me my
>first clue.
She said something about the owner using a pair of batteries to turn
>it over - high compression mods. Was used for racing here in central
>California.

>Jeff



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 06:17:55 -0500

If you really want some torque from all this work, take the heads off and
clean up the thermactor bumps while you are at it. Just blend them with the
floor of the exhaust port. Do not remove any more material than absolutely
necessary as there is a hole under there :-) They say this is good for 25
hp even if done poorly :-)

The balance tube should be in the neighborhood of 36" from the exhaust ports
according to one article I read. That puts it about at the ends of the
collectors on long headers. It should be roughly 3/4 the diameter of the
exhaust tubing for best "tune", again according to my reading :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Gary,
>Thank you for your insite on 2 1/2" or 3" exhaust. I talked to my

>I run an "H" or "X" in the pipe before the mufflers. That will
>help equalize
>pressure.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 07:48:19 -0500

Again, we've had this back pressure discussion many times. Back pressure is
a mythe. No matter how large you make your pipe there will be "back
pressure" or an elevated pressure over ambient measured in PSI at the
exhaust valve. It may not be measurable but it's there :-) The commonly
used term "back pressure" actually refers to tuning via sound waves and can
be negative or positive pressure depending on the rpm and where the exhaust
is "tuned" for optimum "negative" pressure at the valves.

Except for lab analysis of components or pure science, back pressure has no
significance in a street application as long as it is not "restrictive".
There are studies that indicate a long, small diameter tube will increase
low rpm torque by a measurable amount in a lab environment and there is a
danger that too short a pipe could allow the exhaust valves to cool too
quickly and warp or crack but other than those two extremes it has no
relevance to us unless you are drag racing in a very tight competition
etc...

In a bronco it has been shown that pipes exiting in front of the rear wheels
reduces fume invasion of the cab even with the rear window open, sounds
nice, looks cool but there is no evidence that it improves performance. As
in the case mentioned earlier, if you exit out the rear you will have longer
pipes and may gain a small advantage at the bottom but will lose
considerable top end unless you size the pipe accordingly. I used 2.5" and
believe now that 3" may have been a better choice to get more top end since
my pipes are pretty long. OTOH, the walker system which was 2 into 1, not
dual like my current setup had good top end with the same engine and I
believe the pipes were only 2-3/4" but exited behind the rear wheel, not out
the back and used cast manifolds rather than the headers I have now.

When I redo the engine (soon I hope) I will remove the thermactor bumps,
install a balance tube and add a rochester and Offy intake which can be
tuned to match the improved evacuation and hope to gain back my top end.
This hope is based on sound theory, not media hype, looks or sound :-) I
also expect to see an improvement in the economy with a minimum goal of 15
mpg. I get 12 now on a good day.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>to the next cross member. First of all... anybody have any
>pro's and con's
>for taking it on out to the back or the sides? Secondly, I
>had asked around
>about dual 3" , and I was told that would take too much back
>pressure off.

------------------------------

From: prozelloaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Fuel Injection
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 07:22:45 -0600

Hi All,
Just wondering is there a fuel injection setup that can be added to a 460???
What would be the most likely donor????

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6


------------------------------

From: prozelloaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: 460 swap
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 07:28:40 -0600

Hi all,
A few weeks ago the subject came up about motor mounts that would help swap
in a 460 into a 60 ish Ford truck. I just received the PAW big catalog and
in it found motor mounts and tranny mounts for swaps. The catalog listed a
mount up to 64 and one for 65 and up. They also had cross members. If any
one is interested I can get the part numbers from my catalog. The mounts for
the 65 and up was 113.00(US) something in that ball park.

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6


------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Crush sleeve
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 09:09:40 -0500

Ox writes:>> I guess I'm having a hard time seeing why the crush collar
needs to be
in there at all. The "outer" end of in inner part of bearings press
against the pinion head and the axle flange. These inner bearing part
presses against bearings which press against the races and that is what
you are preloading, right??. Why do you need something that presses
against (between) each inner bearing part? What am I not seeing? What
happens if you leave out crush collar?<<

Could it be that the crush sleeve is for the purpose of insuring that the
bearing races are fully seated all the way around their perimeters????
Squared up, if you will !!! I'd venture to guess thats as good a reason as
any...

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: 428 piston
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 09:20:49 -0500

Rollie writes: >>Still looking for a tip on what type of pistons came in
these 428's.<<

My '69 SCJ had Forged Aluminum, but you said yous was not CJ, so I do not
know. If I were to guess though, I'd guess it was Forged Aluminum. Isn't
that what Ford was using in their normal everyday FE's during that
period???

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Fuel spouting
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 09:29:46 -0500

Robert Y. writes: >>Bad News - fuel now fountaining out of the two tubes
at the front of the carb. <<

Probably damaged the float or the needle/seat when you had the ease out
inserted into the fuel inlet.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: nukegmford-trucks.com
Subject: Replacement for the Variable Venturi Carb
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 06:49:03 -0800



The mechanics in the local school bus barn are needing
to find a good replacement carb for the variable venturi
Motorcraft carb on a 1983 model 302 auto F-100. Soemthing of
a different design.

Any good suggestions for a bolt in replacement since it has all
the electrical gadgets still hooked up from the factory.

Thanks!

Stu
Nuke GM!

-----
Sent using MailStart.com ( http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://MailStart.Com/welcome.html )
The FREE way to access your mailbox via any web browser, anywhere!


------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Piston ID
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 09:52:29 -0500

Rollie writes: >>I was just wondering about ways to tell if these are
original ford pistons.
Thanks for the help!<<

Look at the side of the piston where the wrist pin goes through it. It
should have 428 and FOMOCO cast in it...

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al



------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement for the Variable Venturi Carb
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 07:15:04 -0800

When I was working in a Ford dealer in the mid 80's Motorcraft was offering
a smog legal replacement for the VV which was made by Holley. Very basic
carb but had all the right connections without the headaches of the VV. It
was sold over the parts counter at all dealerships.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: ford-trucks.com>
To: <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2000 6:49 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Replacement for the Variable Venturi Carb


>
>
> The mechanics in the local school bus barn are needing
> to find a good replacement carb for the variable venturi
> Motorcraft carb on a 1983 model 302 auto F-100. Soemthing of
> a different design.
>
> Any good suggestions for a bolt in replacement since it has all
> the electrical gadgets still hooked up from the factory.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Stu
> Nuke GM!
>




------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement for the Variable Venturi Carb
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:17:14 -0500

Holley 2300 or motorcraft copy will bolt right on. I did this with a 79
LTD, 302, piece a cake :-) The VV concept is a really great one but the
execution of it in the Motorcraft carb was not so hot :-( Put SU's on it
and you'll see what I mean :-) (course you'll need 8 of those :-))

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>The mechanics in the local school bus barn are needing
>to find a good replacement carb for the variable venturi
>Motorcraft carb on a 1983 model 302 auto F-100. Soemthing of
>a different design.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:19:04 -0500
From: "Don Haring, Jr." fedora.net>
Subject: Customer Service (was: Mufflers)

Bonkrr auracom.com> said:
(snip)
>What it did do on my last attempt was blow that muffler wide open
>with a thunderous KaBoom...
(snip)
>Interesting sidenote to this story is that the good guys at Canadian
>Tire here in Liverpool, Nova Scotia replaced it under warranty. :)


On that note, I'd like to mention a recent exchange I had with the owner of
a local Midas shop. Before anyone jumps on my back, I already know that
chain shops do notorious poor work, etc, etc. I had them build me an
exhaust system last year after being scoffed at by the local custom exhaust
shop. Midas did a lousy job, but you get what you pay for. Anyway ...

Midas forgot to replace the first exhaust clamp that holds the head pipe to
a bracket. Because of vibration, the muffler kept sliding loose. I took it
in because the last time it happened, it actually bent the muffler pipe
enough that I couldn't get it back together and seal well -- or even fit an
adapter to make it work. I wanted them to use a pipe expander, use an
adapter, or give me a new muffler (hopefully for free or reduced cost since
they caused the screw-up in the first place). I just didn't want to mess it
because I've been so busy lately. I dropped it off and was told that I
would recieve a call before they did any actual work to let me know my
options.

I got a call at the end of the day telling my van was finished. They wanted
to charge me $30 for applying muffler patch to the leak. $30 is not a lot
of money, but it's a lot of money for something that I could have done
myself for about $2. I told the service guy that I wasn't going to pay $30
for a patch and that I didn't appreciate not getting a phone call to let me
know what my options were. I was passed onto a manager, and then handed the
phone and the owner was on the line.

I told him I thought $30 was high for a patch. He said he spent an hour
patching it and that his labor rate was $50/hr and that I should be happy
he was ONLY charging me $30. I told him that I never authorized any work on
the van because I never got a phone call.

He then agreed that wasn't right and said, "don't pay us anything, take
your keys, drive away, and never come back."

How's THAT for customer service? ;)

The shop in question is on South Broad Street here in lovely Philadelphia.
The patch has started to crack and will likely blow out soon. :)

-don

--
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles



------------------------------

From: "John Webster" primeline.net>
Subject: Re: 460 exhaust
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:42:06 -0500

Hi,
Just thought I put in my 2 cents worth on this also. I run stock exhaust
manifolds (21/2" truck) with a 21/2" dual exhaust. Last year I had small
cheap mufflers and the exhaust dumping just before the rear axle (long
wheelbase truck). It also had a crossover which may have helped the bottom
end but it was nothing you could tell by the sit of your pants. It did quiet
the truck some and take some of the aggressive sound from it. I then went to
stainless 21/2" that feeds two, 2 chamber flowmasters that sit under the cab
and the turndowns are just behind the cab. Yes you can tell when I'm coming
and I have a very good neighbour who doesn't mind the noise but the
surprising part is how quiet (relatively) in the cab. I had a ride home in a
'99 F350 4dr. dually diesel the other day and it was louder in the cab then
mine is. I have all the top end I need (it will pull to 5500 rpm, 4:11's and
33" tires) and the low end for a smog compression 460 is great. Hope this
helps.
John.


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: exhaust and sound files!
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:02:24 -0600

> I
> then went to
> stainless 21/2" that feeds two, 2 chamber flowmasters that sit
> under the cab
> and the turndowns are just behind the cab. Yes you can tell when
> I'm coming
> and I have a very good neighbour who doesn't mind the noise but the
> surprising part is how quiet (relatively) in the cab.

You're joking right ? My old 360 used to have dumps over the rear axle
running headers, 2", and super turbo's ... that was loud, but I didn't
realize how loud until I ran the pipes out the back ... it was much quieter
then, still noisyish but less exhaust noise.

Oh yeah for those of you who are interested, I finally got some mpg files up
of my truck ... its a "mild" 390 with stock manifolds, dual 2" exhaust with
no balance tube and a horrid routing, and super turbo's (exhaust is almost 5
years old from the old 360) ...

The first one is just the truck idling, its cold and out of tune (been too
cold outside to tune it properly :)

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Truck/Images/idle.mpg

The second one is a couple throttle stabs and the racket of me shutting it
off and getting out of the truck ...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Truck/Images/rev.mpg

Both of these were recorded using a digital camera and holding it behind the
truck since we were just playing around. The next plan (maybe this
weekend?) is to set the camera on a tri pod in front of the truck with the
hood open so you can watch the motor run :)





------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 460 exhaust
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:06:10 -0500

This, of course is the beauty of the 460.....no matter what you do to it you
have lots of power :-) Top end can be interfered with however as I found
out and, of course, not all 460's are created equal in the economy
department either :-( I can't think of any cheaper way to add power to a
truck than poping in a used, decent shape 460 out of virtually any
application but you have to like them I guess, they're not for everybody :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>manifolds (21/2" truck) with a 21/2" dual exhaust. Last year I
>had small
>cheap mufflers and the exhaust dumping just before the rear axle (long
>wheelbase truck). It also had a crossover which may have
>helped the bottom

>mine is. I have all the top end I need (it will pull to 5500
>rpm, 4:11's and
>33" tires) and the low end for a smog compression 460 is
>great.

------------------------------

From: prozelloaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: 460 exhaust
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:18:29 -0600

Okay,
Everyone one else has entered the fray so I figure I will also speak
up.......I am running headers into 2 1/2 inch dual exhaust that exits from
just in front of the rear wheels. I on the other hand opted for Supertrapp
mufflers instead of flowmasters(wanted to be original) the supertrapps have
tunable discs that allow for tuning the exhaust-less discs(quiter) for low
end or more discs(louder) for top end. I have played around with the amount
of discs that I stack into the muffler and have noticed a very big
difference. As well the supertrapps are re-buildable, they can be torn down
and re-packed.

I do have a qeustion to Gary, this is a real stupid one too. where are the
thermactor bumps that you are talking about??? I am taking it that they are
on the axhaust side of the head??? Hey if it will give more hp I am all for
it.


Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6



------------------------------

From: "gene gardner" hotmail.com>
Subject: leaking gastank
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 08:13:50 PST

Funny someone mentioned JB Weld for patching a float just when I was getting
ready to write. Is this stuff good for sealing a leak on the corner seam of
a gastank? Any better ideas? For now I'm talking about repairing, not
replacing. Gracias.

Texican Teacher 70 F100 shortbed w 300-I6
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Phil & Debi" stargate.net>
Subject: Re: Removable Floor Pans
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:24:15 -0500

> < The removable floorpan over the tranny was the norm from the beginning.
> > It made servicing the tranny from the top possible, especially easy on
> > top-cover-shifted manuals. Then the bean counters discovered this
wasted
> > effort on automatic equipped trucks that had no removable top cover for
> > servicing. Automatics quit cutting them out and bolting in the separate
> > plate.

My 70 had a 3 speed on column and had no cover, just indent of where a cover
should go. When i converted it to a np435 I cut out the floor and used the
cover that came off my 69 parts truck.

Phil Beattie
66 F100
70 F100
91 F150 4x4
www.geocities.com/imstobu


------------------------------

From: "Phil & Debi" stargate.net>
Subject: Re: parting out a 69 and a 64
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:28:48 -0500

How is the bed on the 69 and where located?

Phil Beattie
66 F100
70 F100
91 F150 4x4
www.geocities.com/imstobu


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:32:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 351 INFO

Eric,
Is the 351C a 2V or 4V? If it's a 2V, put that one in
the truck and the 351W in the Falcon. If the 351C is a
4V, put that in the Falcon. '63 Falcons came stock
with a 260, but the suspension was beefier than the 6
cyl. version. I put a 351C-4V in a '67 Mustang and the
only change required was the radiator outlet.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V
>
> From: "Eric Washburn" flash.net>
> Subject: 351 INFO
> Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 20:56:08 -0600
>
> OK guys, my sis's boyfriend is gonna be selling me a
> 351W and a 351C. Where
> are the codes located at on these things so I can
> identify the year and such
> of the engine. Also, what do the numbers that I'm
> looking for mean? They
> both run and don't smoke or use oil. I'm gonna try
> to snag the '74 F150 too
> =) I was thinking about putting the 351W in the
> truck and the 351C in our
> '63 Falcon, aaahh, I'll be smokin them Camaros. Talk
> about a family car!
> LOL. The last idea is kinda wild. Let me know guys.
> I know ya'll can help
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: leaking gastank
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:32:58 -0600

> Funny someone mentioned JB Weld for patching a float just when I
> was getting
> ready to write. Is this stuff good for sealing a leak on the
> corner seam of
> a gastank? Any better ideas? For now I'm talking about repairing, not
> replacing. Gracias.
>

I used it to patch some pin holes in the top of a tank once, worked fine for
me there, but it wasn't soaked in the gas (very often, though it did hold
gas 'cause of the tank design)

Eastwood makes some sealer/restorer stuff for tanks that is probably good
for what you're looking at too (if the seam isn't split too badly) ... also
most radiator shops I think work on those tanks too for sealing purposes ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: 351 INFO
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:36:52 -0600

> '63 Falcons came stock
> with a 260, but the suspension was beefier than the 6
> cyl. version.

Yikes, if that was beefier I'd hate to see the stock falcon's handling! And
both those 351's are quite a bit heavier and wider than the little 260, so
there will likely be quite a bit of checking to do on that before committing
to either one ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 460 exhaust
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:44:19 -0500

They are in the bottom of the exhaust port as I recall and interfere with
flow enough that it makes that much difference. Smokey says you can't make
power by lowering the ports which is very true so keep that in mind when you
tackle the job, don't hog out any more than needed to smooth the floor for
good flow. In this case anything you take out will help so less is better
so you don't have to weld up any mistakes :-) Reducing the kinks the hump
makes in the flow pattern is all you are trying to achieve as well as making
the port diameter consistent from valve to manifold. I haven't done it yet
but this is info I've gleaned from my reading so far :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I do have a qeustion to Gary, this is a real stupid one too.
>where are the
>thermactor bumps that you are talking about??? I am taking it
>that they are
>on the axhaust side of the head??? Hey if it will give more hp
>I am all for
>it.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 360 questions
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 12:11:37 -0500

Ford 671 and 871 blower kits cost in the range of $4500. If that's what it
is then I may be interested for the right price :-) Add a super charger to
a radical engine and you "restore" it's manners, not make them worse. Of
course if the engine in question is already pretty radical then it may not
help "enough" :-)

I can only dream of a 460 with a 871 on top some day in one of my workaday
trucks.........Stumps would not only come out when I hooked on they would
jump out in fear :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Jeff, I would think the blown FE engine would be too radical
>for a truck
>engine,

------------------------------

From: SevnD2aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 13:04:22 EST
Subject: Re: Piston ID

In a message dated 03/03/2000 9:54:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
am14daimlerchrysler.com writes:

<< Look at the side of the piston where the wrist pin goes through it. It
should have 428 and FOMOCO cast in it... >>

I will get the piston out this weekend and take a look. I hope these pistons
are easy to find whatever they are. :-)
Thanks,
Rollie Hunt

------------------------------

From: SevnD2aol.com
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 13:09:23 EST
Subject: Re: 428 piston

In a message dated 03/03/2000 9:22:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
am14daimlerchrysler.com writes:

<< My '69 SCJ had Forged Aluminum, but you said yous was not CJ, so I do not
know. If I were to guess though, I'd guess it was Forged Aluminum. Isn't
that what Ford was using in their normal everyday FE's during that
period??? >>

I have talked to the person who built this engine. They said the pistons are
.040 oversize and are not forged or anything special. Just a cast piston. But
still they couldn't say what type because they just used the pistons that
were in it when the took it apart. Oh well, I will find out anyway when I
pull it out later this weekend.
Thanks,
Rollie Hunt

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: floppy automatic shift lever fix
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 13:18:44 -0500

Mine is like this too.How did you fix it?
-----Original Message-----
From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com aol.com>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 12:27 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] floppy automatic shift lever fix


>i was tired of the floppy atomatic shift lever on the column, so i fixed it
>for less than $5.00 and its probably tighter than new. if anyone else is
>interested to know how it was done let me know. i just don't want to do all
>that typing if no one is interested.
>
>thanks, jeff grant
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: leaking gastank
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 13:29:36 -0500

I would say that if it's in the seam of the tank ,that J.B. Weld will stop
the leak for awhile,but if any moisture what-so-ever gets in there it won't
solve the problem in the long run.Check around,you should be able to get a
new tank for around $120.00.
-----Original Message-----
From: gene gardner hotmail.com>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 11:19 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] leaking gastank


>Funny someone mentioned JB Weld for patching a float just when I was
getting
>ready to write. Is this stuff good for sealing a leak on the corner seam of
>a gastank? Any better ideas? For now I'm talking about repairing, not
>replacing. Gracias.
>
>Texican Teacher 70 F100 shortbed w 300-I6
>______________________________________________________
> >
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: 351 INFO
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 13:34:41 -0500

I don't believe the 351C will fit in the little engine bay of the
Falcon.There is a big difference in the width of a '67 Mustangs engine
bay.That was the 1st year the big block was offered in the Mustang,that is
why you didn't have any trouble putting the bigger & WIDER 351C in there.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, March 03, 2000 11:35 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 351 INFO


>Eric,
>Is the 351C a 2V or 4V? If it's a 2V, put that one in
>the truck and the 351W in the Falcon. If the 351C is a
>4V, put that in the Falcon. '63 Falcons came stock
>with a 260, but the suspension was beefier than the 6
>cyl. version. I put a 351C-4V in a '67 Mustang and the
>only change required was the radiator outlet.
>
>Dan Lee
>'53 F100
>400C-4V
>>
>> From: "Eric Washburn" flash.net>
>> Subject: 351 INFO
>> Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 20:56:08 -0600
>>
>> OK guys, my sis's boyfriend is gonna be selling me a
>> 351W and a 351C. Where
>> are the codes located at on these things so I can
>> identify the year and such
>> of the engine. Also, what do the numbers that I'm
>> looking for mean? They
>> both run and don't smoke or use oil. I'm gonna try
>> to snag the '74 F150 too
>> =) I was thinking about putting the 351W in the
>> truck and the 351C in our
>> '63 Falcon, aaahh, I'll be smokin them Camaros. Talk
>> about a family car!
>> LOL. The last idea is kinda wild. Let me know guys.
>> I know ya'll can help
>>
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

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