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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:17:20 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:17:20 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #26
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Thu, 02 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 026

In This Issue:
Re: parting out a 69 and a 64
Re: 9" rears
Re: parting out a 69 and a 64
Re: '81 half ton Dana 44 front hub/spindle - unlurk
Re: Mufflers
List O' Blocks
Re: 460 Exhaust
Heavy Duty Spindles
Re: List 'O Blocks
Re: 351 INFO
Re: Floorpans
F-100 parting
Re: Changing transmissions?
Re: 428 With a Hole In One
Re: 428 With a Hole In One
Re: Floorpans
Re: 428 With a Hole In One
Re: List 'O Blocks
Re: List O' Blocks
Re: '81 half ton Dana 44 front hub/spindle
Hub/rotor
Re: 428 With a Hole In One
Re: Floorpans
Hole
mufflers
carbuerator woes
Re: carbuerator woes
Re: '81 half ton Dana 44 front hub/spindle -
Re: carbuerator woes
Re: 9" rears
Re: carbuerator woes
Re: Hole
Re: 428 With a Hole In One
C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
69 ford parts
Re: mufflers
Old OFF-ROAD Magazines?
Hole in one
Looking to buy set of 16.5 X 9.75 or 10 wide steel rims
Re: 460 Exhaust
Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Fw: FWD: Gas out!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Moore, Jimmy" ZymeTx.com>
Subject: Re: parting out a 69 and a 64
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 08:25:13 -0600


Oh yeah, what about the radiator, is it there in the '64?



A61fordtruck aol.com wrote:

> hey everybody,
>
> I am parting out a 69 ranger and a 64. both are short stylesides. both
> cabs have exelent floors and rusty driprails. neither have engines. the
69
> has a lot of decent trim as well on it and all the ranger emblems. help
me
> finish my "61 by buying some of this junk from me!!!!
>
> Greg schnakenberg
> 61 stepside in process
> 65 custom cab with 460 swap going on now
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 09:25:45 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: 9" rears

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>
> The only one I have done myself I just put all the old parts back in and
> tightened the snot out of it and put quite a few miles on it with no trouble
> so I don't know how important all this stuff really is? Having the right
> preload on the tapered bearings is the "whole" purpose of this exercise so
> what ever you have to do to get that done is good enough. Since I didn't
> use a new sleeve I don't know what it does :-)
>
> The Dana 44 doesn't use a sleeve, you measure the clearances and build a
> shim pack so in that case you just wham that dude down tight and forget
> it.......if the bearing preload comes out right the first time......good
> luck :-) I'm not advocating throwing away all torque specs, just saying
> that when you get up in the 275# range it begins to be somewhat moot, eh?
>
> Bottom line is the pinion turns with little drag or bind on it to damage the
> bearings but is tight enough that when you apply torque it won't get out of
> alignement and damage the bearings or cause the seal to leak etc... What I
> believe to be the case here is that the engineers deemed this the simplest
> way to get them together in the factory with the least fuss and fewest
> rejections by engineering the sleeve to crush at exactly the right point to
> leave the bearing with the correct preload within a certain spec, probably a
> fairly wide spec at the factory. They slap the parts on there and run the
> nut down with a calibrated impact wrench which breaks at a specified torque
> and is not hand held but applied by a machine. Beyond that point a tester
> grabs the yoke and tests the torque on the pinion and any that don't meet
> the spec are sent to a repair bench where someone loosens or tightens the
> nut til the spec is achieved. As I said, the factory undoubtedly uses
> locktite which explains how they stay tight until someone loosens them with
> a wrench.
>

Well, then I'm thinking when I did my one and only 9" rear, I did it
right. Re-use the crush collar and tighten the nut until the rotational
torque (pinion bearing pre-load) is within spec and locktite a NEW nut.
I guess I'm having a hard time seeing why the crush collar needs to be
in there at all. The "outer" end of in inner part of bearings press
against the pinion head and the axle flange. These inner bearing part
presses against bearings which press against the races and that is what
you are preloading, right??. Why do you need something that presses
against (between) each inner bearing part? What am I not seeing? What
happens if you leave out crush collar?

OX

------------------------------

From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: parting out a 69 and a 64
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 06:50:49 PST

I need the tailgate if it is complete

Chris
67 F100 352
72 F100 390


______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: '81 half ton Dana 44 front hub/spindle - unlurk
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:13:14 -0600

> > If you need to get the rotors turned (and any autoparts store can mic it
> > for you- don't remember tolerences off-hand) you will need to KEEP THEM
> > TOGETHER in order for them to turn the rotors..
>
> You should be able to get your rotors turned either with or without the
> hubs. A lot of front drive cars have rotors held on only by the lug nuts.
> Brake shops turn them with no hub all of the time.
>
>

John, yes, and no. The new cars that do that use the lugs to hold the rotor
to the hub (my Mustang does this), but they have a much smaller hole in the
center than the rotors for a 4x4, for that matter I've seen smaller shops
have problems even when you leave the bearing races in ...

At any rate when you press the rotor back into the hub, its very easy to
warp it just a little, so it should all be turned as a unit to be sure its
straight and good ... the guys who just did the disc brakes for my truck
said it was pretty warped when he pressed it on, and that was the
machineshop pressing a new rotor onto an old hub ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Mufflers
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:15:36 -0600


> that I could force an after fire out of by turning off
> the switch right after a hard acceleration and while the car was still
> rolling then turn the switch back on. Sounded like a cannon.
> Ballooned the
> muffler pretty bad though. For some reason I've never seen or had a Ford
> Truck that would do this.
>
> > I hate to break it to you guys but a brand new muffler will
> > split all the
> > way down the side and open up like a desert flower under
> > those conditions,
> > don't ask :-(
> >


Wow, I thought everyone knew this trick ... there's actually a much easier
way to do it than all this setup ... a guy I know was having problems
getting them to replace the muffler on his work truck ... so he blew it off
and then they replaced it ... here's the procedure, should work for any
non-fi car anytime ...

While cruising along at speed, turn the key off (leave it in gear) and pump
the gas a few times .... the more you pump the bigger bang of course ...
then with it still in gear turn the key back on ... it should fire up in
more ways than one ...

Don't do this too far from your destination though ... you could end up with
a pretty loud vehicle in the end ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 09:18:25 -0600
From: John Strauss inetport.com>
Subject: List O' Blocks

Gotta add my 2 cents:

>> There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of:
>> Windsor blocks: 302, 351w

These are 221, 260, 289, 302, 351W as far as I know.

>> Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c

Kinda shaky on this one, is the Cleveland considered a 335? I know it is
the same design but has the Windsor trans pattern. The 400C is a real
unknown. I have seen this engine referred to as a 400C when first
introduced in 1971 and then later just 400 but it is part of the 335-series
because it has the 385 (429, 460) trans pattern. I have heard of very rare
early 400s with the Windsor trans pattern, wonder if that is the 400C?

>> Modified blocks: 351m, 400m

These are the 335-series engines. 351M and 400. No such thing as 400M.

>> FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428

That one is correct.

>> and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460

These are called 385-series. 370 is a truck-only engine, didn't know it
was a 385.

>Where do the 331FT, 361FT and 391FT blocks fall in the list? What does FT
>stand for? Is it really an FE?

FT means Ford Truck. I think this is just like an FE but perhaps with
stronger webbing in the block and other such truck mods.

_
_| ~~. John Strauss
\, *_} jstrauss inetport.com
\( Texas Fight!


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:24:22 -0600

> Well, exhaust is a part of the tune but the tuned portion of the exhaust
> influence only happens at one rpm,

---- lot o "stuff" deleted ----

> >I am building a 460 for my 67 F100. Should I run a 3" or 2
> >1/2" exhaust
> >system? How much back pressure do the heads require? I have already
> >purchased 3" Flowmaster mufflers. I've been told just recently
> >that 2 1/2"
> >is the way to go. I need the advice from experts. Thanks in advance.

Okay, here's my (somewhat shorter) take on this thing ...

Are you running headers or stock manifolds ?
what are you using the truck for (playing around or racing hardcore) ?

For a street application with stock manifolds, I don't think you'll notice
the difference between 2.5" and 3" if its all done right unless you have
some really short gears and need all the revs you can get ... I assume we're
talking duals here though (since you said mufflers, plural)... if we're
talking single, then the 3 is the only way to go for a 460 ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: BDIJXS aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 10:23:29 EST
Subject: Heavy Duty Spindles

Hey Joe,

In my experience, at least with the Dana/Spicer dealers in Colorado and Utah,
the spindle you are looking for was discontinued in 1996. These guys told me
that some dealers might still have them but it's because they still just
happen to have a few left over....but, Kid Marino seems to have good luck
with this kind of stuff....

By the way, you will notice that will have some trouble unlocking these
external locking hubs because of the limited slip unit. You'll have to roll
forward and backwards several times to get them to unlock. At least if you
get one unlocked, the other will. I think what is happening is that the
clutch pack is leaving some "residual torque" (for lack of a better phrase,
but I'm sure Wish has the correct one here) on the locking hubs. While they
are cool looking, they are not the best design as they will not release if
this little amount of "torque" is present. The good Warn hubs, on the other
hand, will. Plus, as you may have noticed, the little plastic inserts have a
tendency to crack. In fact, a lot of people simply replace their entire
locking hubs with new Warns because they can't find the plastic
inserts....but I think the Dana places still might carry them.

I was able to get a pair of spindles from a place in Michigan, I believe it
was called "Total Drivetrain" or something. He had a few of these earlier HD
44 axles around. I should be able to come up with a telephone number for you,
but it will take a little time. I'm thinking someone here might know exactly
who I'm talking about and speed things up....

Let us know how it goes. Were you the one asking about parts for highboy
steering? If so, please send me a message off list.

Good luck,

CJ (Colorado Jeff)




------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: List 'O Blocks
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:26:09 -0600

> FT stands for Ford Truck.
>
>
> > canzus seanet.com writes:
>
> > Where do the 331FT, 361FT and 391FT blocks fall in the list?
> What does FT
> > stand for? Is it really an FE?

Just to expand on that a bit, it was for the F500+'s mostly, it uses a
larger snout and smaller valves ... not a high revving motor, but pretty
good at low end torque and such ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: 351 INFO
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:27:25 -0600

> I think you better put the 351 Windsor in the Falcon & put some sub-frame
> connectors on it.I don't know if the Cleveland will fit in the
> engine bay of
> the Falcon without removal or major work to the shock towers.

Hmmm...if I remember my buddy's 63 260 right, it was a pretty tight fit, I
think even the W will be a shoehorn trick to get in there ... better take
some good measurements first on that thing ... it can be done, but you may
need to "restyle" the engine compartment a bit ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Floorpans
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:28:16 -0600

> The removable floorpan over the tranny was the norm from the beginning.
> It made servicing the tranny from the top possible, especially easy on
> top-cover-shifted manuals. Then the bean counters discovered this wasted
> effort on automatic equipped trucks that had no removable top cover for
> servicing. Automatics quit cutting them out and bolting in the separate
> plate.

When did this happen? My 73 has the separate plate, but its a 4x4, so maybe
that makes it an exception for the autos and only the 4x2 autos had the
floor uncut ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "Mark Mcknight" hotmail.com>
Subject: F-100 parting
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 07:32:50 PST

I'm parting out a 1978 Ford F-100 with a 3 speed automatic, and 302 engine,
cab is good, have spare cab corners. Hit on left front end. Frame is shot,
but the front suspension is good. The Engine has a spun bearing, and is
being parted also.

Engine block: 302, $200
Pistons: 8, $50 for all 8
intake and carb: 2 barrel,$200
Cam: $50
Heads w/ valve train: $300

Any more info needed, please feel free to email me.

I also have a question. The Engine from the 78 302 is good, and is being
pulled, and a bad engine is going to part. I have a question about the
emissions, the 302 that comes out of the 78 might not pass emissions in the
85 F-150. Just curious as to how I could make it pass without changing the
intake and putting all that emission b/s on it
Thanx much again guys,
Mark

94' Mazda B-3000
85' Ford F-150, 302
78' Ford F-100, parting
76' Ford F-250 4x4, very bad, bush truck, also for sale

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 08:35:35 -0700
From: "Richard Currit" state.wy.us>
Subject: Re: Changing transmissions?

> at least the 73-79 had the center section that you >could unbolt, I
guess I always assumed the 67-72's >did too ... anyone know when they
started that ?
>
> My '61 Unibody has got the removeable tranny >cover with a factory
hole for the T98.
>
>I guess that covers everyone on the list then huh ? >:) I'm sure
someone will know of a truck that doesn't >have this panel removable
though ... at least it looks >like a fairly safe assumption :)

Ayup. My '72 F-100 did not have this panel. When I went from a 3 on
the tree to the toploader had to cut a brand new hole.
High Plains Richard
'72 F-100

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 11:09:27 EST
Subject: Re: 428 With a Hole In One

Yes, the hole is in the piston.
I have never had an air leak in the intake system. Always ran smooth until
this problem showed up.
Thanks for spark plug heat range and carb jetting tip. The carb may have been
the original 360 carb. Probably not enough fuel for a 428 huh?

Rollie

------------------------------

From: SevnD2 aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 11:10:59 EST
Subject: Re: 428 With a Hole In One

In a message dated 03/02/2000 9:25:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:

<< And you can get a piece of carbon to flake of, sit in one place and melt
through.....guess how I know.
>>
Ouch! How can you prevent this from happening if this caused the hole?
Rollie

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 10:16:58 -0600
Subject: Re: Floorpans
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> When did this happen? My 73 has the separate plate, but its a 4x4, so maybe
> that makes it an exception for the autos and only the 4x2 autos had the
> floor uncut ?

Bill,

Working from memory here but I think my 79 has the plate pattern stamped in
the floor pan, but uncut. It is a 4x2 automatic. No I am not going to take
the carpet and padding out to look. I will, however look up from the bottom
when I get a chance.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: SevnD2aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 11:18:12 EST
Subject: Re: 428 With a Hole In One

In a message dated 03/02/2000 9:16:37 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Tom.Hogankla-tencor.com writes:

<< If the plug wires are routed parallel to each other then 8 will be
induced to fire when 7 does. This is obviously too early for 8. I have
read of this causing damage and the service manual has a note about this
condition. >>

Ok, I have heard of this before. Guess I never noticed any skipping really.
But still is something to to try and prevent after I get this fixed.
The Hole is in the piston just to clear up where or what the hole is in. The
cylinder is fine and can be honed for new rings.
Still looking for a tip on what type of pistons came in these 428's.

Thanks for the info.
Rollie

------------------------------

From: SevnD2aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 11:28:02 EST
Subject: Re: List 'O Blocks

In a message dated 03/02/2000 6:03:06 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gherpichbellsouth.net writes:

<< FT stands for Ford Truck. >>
I should have guessed that. LOL
Thanks,
Rollie

------------------------------

From: SevnD2aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 11:36:51 EST
Subject: Re: List O' Blocks

In a message dated 03/02/2000 10:19:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jstraussinetport.com writes:

<<
FT means Ford Truck. I think this is just like an FE but perhaps with
stronger webbing in the block and other such truck mods.
>>
Along with the heavy trucks ( F500's ),
They used these heavier block ( FE type outside deminsions ) engines in well
digging equipment, farm equipment, pumping equipment and other equipment I am
sure.
I just never really knew what the FT stood for. I thought it might stand for
Fear This ! LOL.

Thanks for the info.
Rollie


------------------------------

From: Brazzadogaol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 11:46:54 EST
Subject: Re: '81 half ton Dana 44 front hub/spindle

Tony and John -

Thanks for the quick answers. The power of the list is always amazing. I
think I'll clean all the goop and grit out of the hubs and take them to be
turned in one piece. I don't have any need to wrestle them apart myself,
just to know that it's possible (BTDT on my F-250). I'll happily let them do
the press work in 5 minutes instead of me doing it in 45 minutes.

Ben Williams
'71 Wagoneer
'78 F-250 4x4

> From: Tony Marino raex.com>
>
> First of all-- Yeah, they do come apart.
(snip)
> If you do need new rotors, do yourself a favor, and pay the $5 bucks a
side
> to have them press on the new ones to your hubs. I've pressed in my own,
> but using a bottle jack, the frame rail of the truck, and a deepwell
socket
> only works so well... ;-)

> From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>
>
> You should be able to get your rotors turned either with or without the
> hubs. A lot of front drive cars have rotors held on only by the lug nuts.
> Brake shops turn them with no hub all of the time.

------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Hub/rotor
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 11:47:03 -0500

Tony writes: >>First of all-- Yeah, they do come apart.<<

When did this start??? Does it apply to the F250/F350 4X4's as well, or
just the F150's.??? Inquiring minds(?) want to know!!!

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 10:51:58 -0600
Subject: Re: 428 With a Hole In One
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> << And you can get a piece of carbon to flake of, sit in one place and melt
> through.....guess how I know.
> >>
> Ouch! How can you prevent this from happening if this caused the hole?
> Rollie

Use the proper oil, proper fuel, keep your engine tuned and maintained. This
is usually only problematic on an oil burner, especially if someone decides
to use non-detergent or 2 cycle oil to keep from fouling plugs.

Don't go too small on your carb jets in search of better fuel economy. BTDT.

These little pieces of carbon can stick on your valves and melt a nice
little place, too. BTDT.

Somehow I think that a carbon deposit was not the cause of your problem,
Rollie. The trouble with long distance diagnosis is we at the other end just
have to lay out the options for you to pick from.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Floorpans
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 11:02:09 -0600

> > When did this happen? My 73 has the separate plate, but its a
> 4x4, so maybe
> > that makes it an exception for the autos and only the 4x2 autos had the
> > floor uncut ?
>
> Working from memory here but I think my 79 has the plate pattern
> stamped in
> the floor pan, but uncut. It is a 4x2 automatic. No I am not going to take
> the carpet and padding out to look. I will, however look up from
> the bottom
> when I get a chance.
>

Hahahaha ... I'll trust you on this one John :)

Oh yeah my truck started life as a 4x2, but the hole looks factory cut ...
and this guy would've taken any shortcuts he could ...maybe it was a 4spd
from the factory though, who knows ... someday I will own a vehicle that is
made from all of its original parts so I know EXACTLY what every part is and
how it came from the factory!

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: am14daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Hole
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 12:09:18 -0500

Rollie H. writes: >>My 428 had lost compression in the number eight
cylinder a while back. I just
parked it until I had the time to get into it. I finally removed the head
yesterday and found a small egg shaped hole in the highest edge of it
(nearest to the intake). Not a very big hole (smaller than a dime) and
there
is no damage to the cylinder<<

Where is the hole??? In the head??? I would think in the piston, but you
aren't very clear here. If it is in the piston, my 1st guess would be a
serious vacuum leak on that cylinder, and that most likely means the
intake, or if one of the accesory vacuum "trees" in in that particular
runner, it could be down stream from that "tree". If it is an intake leak,
you will most likely correct it upon reassembly... Take your piston to one
of your favorite automotive machine shops that does a lot of Ford work, and
let them order you a piston for it. They should be able to do that, I
would think..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 12:45:24 -0500 (EST)
From: younkersauracom.com (R)
Subject: mufflers

I had this happen on my 1985 I-6 300 F-150 (Ol Spots). I was driving up the
highway, pulled out to pass when I noticed my signal lights blinking verrrry
slowly. Shortly after that, the truck died. I tried jump starting it
several times since I was still travelling at about 40 km/h but it wouldn't
restart. What it did do on my last attempt was blow that muffler wide open
with a thunderous KaBoom. It wasn't until I had the truck boosted and
started it again that I realized the muffler was wide open. Turns out a
wire had broken off on my voltage regulator and drained the battery of all
power, thus my jump start attempt resulted in the engine (and muffler)
getting everything it needed but a spark. The muffler of course was hot
enough to ignite the mixture itself. Interesting sidenote to this story is
that the good guys at Canadian Tire here in Liverpool, Nova Scotia replaced
it under warranty. :)

Bonkrr

1978 F-150 4X4
1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
1995 Taurus SHO


>From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
>Subject: Re: Mufflers
>Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 06:15:43 -0800
>
>I had an old bu!K that I could force an after fire out of by turning off
>the switch right after a hard acceleration and while the car was still
>rolling then turn the switch back on. Sounded like a cannon. Ballooned the
>muffler pretty bad though. For some reason I've never seen or had a Ford
>Truck that would do this.
>
>Tom H.
>>
>> I hate to break it to you guys but a brand new muffler will
>> split all the
>> way down the side and open up like a desert flower under
>> those conditions,
>> don't ask :-(

>> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary

>> >6 Crawl under truck and look at whats left of my rusty old
>> turbo
>> >mufflers
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 12:53:01 -0500 (EST)
From: younkersauracom.com (R)
Subject: carbuerator woes

OK, first let me say, I screwed up big time. Now the problem.

Was out fixing a few nagging things on my 1978 302 powered F-150 last week.
I noticed a leak around the fuel filter and when I gave it another half
turn to tighten it, surprise!, it twisted off in the carb. Not good. So, I
went to my local UAP and bought a set of easy outs. Managed to use them to
get the stem of the old fuel filter out. Looking good, thought I. Wrong.
Turns out in my exhuberence to get a good lock with the easy out, I punched
a hole in the back of the bowl. Another trip to UAP for some JB weld to
attempt to patch the hole. Pressed it in place, looking good. Left it for
a day to be fully cured, then fired up the truck. Good news - JB weld seems
to have sealed the hole. Bad News - fuel now fountaining out of the two
tubes at the front of the carb. I'm no mechanic (as if that's not obvious
yet), but it seems to me that these must be some kind of pressure relief so
fuel doesn't build up in the bowl. A friend suggested that maybe I bent the
float while removing the old filter. I'd hate to have to take this thing
apart to find out, so I'm looking/begging for solutions. By the way, it's a
stock two barrel motorcraft carb on a 302. Any and all assistence would be
greatly appreciated from this long time lurker.

Thanks

Bonkrr
Robert Younker
Proud Owner
1995 SHO Taurus (129,000km)
1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe (249,000 km)
1978 F-150 Step Side 4X4 (155,000km)

Over 500,000 kilometres of Power By FORD


------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: carbuerator woes
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 12:05:47 -0600

You probably damaged the needle and seat assembly when you used the
easy-out. Or mabye some JB Weld is holding the needle and seat assemby
open. The fuel is coming out of the bowl vent tubes because the needle and
seat is damaged and can't stop the fuel flow, and over filling your bowl.
Install a new needle and seat and check the float level.
Jason

Subject: [61-79-list] carbuerator woes

>I noticed a leak around the fuel filter and when I gave it another half
>turn to tighten it, surprise!, it twisted off in the carb.
>I went to my local UAP and bought a set of easy outs. Managed to use them
to
>get the stem of the old fuel filter out. Looking good, thought I. Wrong.
>Turns out in my exhuberence to get a good lock with the easy out, I punched
>a hole in the back of the bowl. Another trip to UAP for some JB weld to
>attempt to patch the hole. Left it for
>a day to be fully cured, then fired up the truck. Bad News - fuel now
fountaining out of the two
>tubes at the front of the carb. A friend suggested that maybe I bent the
>float while removing the old filter.
>
>Bonkrr
>Robert Younker

>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 13:07:04 -0500
From: Tony Marino raex.com>
Subject: Re: '81 half ton Dana 44 front hub/spindle -

late 87- early 88-

same hubs, same rotors, just different lockouts.

Tony Marino


At 08:34 AM 3/2/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Isn't 81 the year ford did some wierd thing with the hubs?
>
>--
>Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>--
>
> >I went to the junkyard today and picked up an '81 half ton 4x4
> >hub/rotor/bearing/lock-out assembly for an axle swap
> >experiment. Before I
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.


------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: carbuerator woes
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 12:12:50 -0600

It is possible that you have a brass float, and that mabye you punched a
hole in it. I didn't think of this till I'd sent my first response. In any
case, I'd pull the top off the carb, and inspect the float and needle and
seat.

Jason

===========================================
A friend suggested that maybe I bent the
>>float while removing the old filter.
>>
>>Bonkrr
>>Robert Younker



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 9" rears
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 13:39:25 -0500

On the Dana 44 the shim pack goes between the two bearings so it spaces them
exactly the right distance apart to get the right preload but you have to
assemble it with no shims first and measure the freeplay in the pinion and
make an educated guess as to the shim pack thickness and then disassemble
and reassemble with shim pack and check again. Since I used the original
parts again in mine I didn't have to figure out the pack thickness but you
would have to put the two bearings in, squeeze them together and measure the
distance between the inner race edges to get an accurate assesment of where
to start. I'm sure with experience you can learn to gauge it so well it
only has to be done once. Not really sure what I'd use to measure it
myself, sitting here without it in front of me but that's the gist of it
anyway :-) The carrier is done the same way but in that case you do have
free play you can measure directly with an indicator so it's pretty easy to
get right the first time.

Something I learned on the 44 was that the races have to be pressed or
driven all the way on, very tighly against the shim pack to compress it
fully or you are out in the weeds on your measurements. Since the race has
to be pressed off each time you change the shims it mangles the oil slinger
among other things so experience here is the best teacher and great care is
what you need with that operation, it aint for everyone for sure.

With the 9" you put the collar in once, assemble it and torque it and
theoretically the preload comes out right due to calculated upsetting of the
metal in the collar which does the same thing as the shim pack on the Danas.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>against the pinion head and the axle flange. These inner bearing part
>presses against bearings which press against the races and that is what
>you are preloading, right??. Why do you need something that presses
>against (between) each inner bearing part? What am I not seeing? What
>happens if you leave out crush collar?
>
> OX

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: carbuerator woes
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 14:02:28 -0500

Floats are stuck for some reason, got to take it apart :-(

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>to have sealed the hole. Bad News - fuel now fountaining out
>of the two
>tubes at the front of the carb. I'm no mechanic (as if that's

------------------------------

From: SevnD2aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 16:22:43 EST
Subject: Re: Hole

In a message dated 03/02/2000 12:11:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
am14daimlerchrysler.com writes:

<<
Where is the hole??? In the head??? I would think in the piston, but you
aren't very clear here.>>

The hole is in the piston.

< serious vacuum leak on that cylinder, and that most likely means the
intake, or if one of the accesory vacuum "trees" in in that particular
runner, it could be down stream from that "tree". If it is an intake leak,
you will most likely correct it upon reassembly...>>

I will be very careful during reassembly to cure any leaks that my have been
there.
The carburetor is something I am going to focus on. Since I have started this
thread several posts listed the carburetor as being set too lean. Highly
likely in this setup I have.

< of your favorite automotive machine shops that does a lot of Ford work, and
let them order you a piston for it. They should be able to do that, I
would think.. >>

I am checking on that. They have some very detailed pictures of the pistons
they can order.
I was just wondering about ways to tell if these are original ford pistons.
Thanks for the help!
Rollie

------------------------------

From: SevnD2aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 16:27:05 EST
Subject: Re: 428 With a Hole In One

In a message dated 03/02/2000 11:59:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jlagroneford-trucks.com writes:

<< Somehow I think that a carbon deposit was not the cause of your problem,
Rollie. The trouble with long distance diagnosis is we at the other end just
have to lay out the options for you to pick from. >>

The pistons have very little carbon on them. I always use a detergent oil and
this engine never used oil until this problem. The oil was just blowing out
of every place you can think of possibly: filler hole, dipstick tube, etc.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 17:35:34 -0500
From: "Mike McPhillips" power-net.net>
Subject: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe

Test: Pretty Park.exe :)

Mike McPhillips


-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: application/octet-stream
-- File: Pretty Park.exe



------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 14:44:03 -0800

Delete this! Do not send it out to people. It has caused problems on
several friends' hard drives!

>>Subject: [61-79-list] C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe


>>Test: Pretty Park.exe :)

>>Mike McPhillips



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 14:57:12 -0800 (PST)
From: damon obrien yahoo.com>
Subject: 69 ford parts

everyone mostly Greg,
do you have a pasnger side right front turn singal
light?????
will the 69 light fit on a 72???????

Damon,
72 f-100 ranger XLT short bed
(my72fordrangerxltyahoo.com)

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" flash.net>
Subject: Re: mufflers
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 17:43:51 -0600

I have a friend that has a '90 F-350 Crew Cab with a 460 in it. He can do
that too, but when it fires back up, a 3-ft flame shoots out of the exhaust
pipe =) Hehe, first time I saw it, I just about had a heart attack cause I
was behind him in my pickup.

>I had an old bu!K that I could force an after fire out of by turning off
>the switch right after a hard acceleration and while the car was still
>rolling then turn the switch back on. Sounded like a cannon. Ballooned
the
>muffler pretty bad though. For some reason I've never seen or had a Ford
>Truck that would do this.




------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUTaol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 20:21:28 EST
Subject: Old OFF-ROAD Magazines?

Does anybody has the December 1996 and the February 1997 laying around? I am
looking for Part 1 and Part 3 of the conversion of a 2wd F-150 Supercab to a
4x4. I will be buying a 1979 F-350 2wd Crew Cab in a few weeks (if all goes
as planned), and plan on doing the conversion similiar to the one that
OFF-ROAD did. I would like to get the actual magizine if possible, not a
copy as the picture would get "fuzzy" if photo copied. I sure someone has an
extra they would like to sell!!! Wayne Grabley

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 17:29:51 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Hole in one

>yesterday and found a small egg shaped hole in the highest edge of it
>(nearest to the intake). Not a very big hole (smaller than a
>dime) and there
>is no damage to the cylinder.

>The hole is in the piston right? Detonation or a flawed piston could >be the cause. Timing is often a part of the problem but not always the >whole problem.

When I rebuilt my 428 I was told (incorrectly)that the only piston
available was 10.5 to 1.I have been battling detonation ever since
I put the high compression pistons in it.
I have the total advance down in the 25 o range and it runs fine on
premium only.(ouch)But I still have to be careful of detonation.
If you pistons are 10.5 to 1 like mine I'm afraid the hole is from
detonation.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 20:50:41 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Looking to buy set of 16.5 X 9.75 or 10 wide steel rims

If you have a set and are somewhat near NJ, let me know.

OX

------------------------------

From: SHill48337aol.com
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 21:12:28 EST
Subject: Re: 460 Exhaust

In a message dated 3/2/00 1:14:05 AM Eastern Standard Time,
lukes67fordhotmail.com writes:

<< I am building a 460 for my 67 F100. Should I run a 3" or 2 1/2" exhaust
system? How much back pressure do the heads require? I have already
purchased 3" Flowmaster mufflers. I've been told just recently that 2 1/2"
is the way to go. I need the advice from experts. Thanks in advance. >>

I agree with what Gary said. But, you have headers which will do more to
tune your engine to a certain speed (based on the diameter and length of the
primary pipes). You have the 3 inch Flow Masters use them, if not I will buy
them. As Gray says I do not think you will ever be able to tell the
differance power wise. However, Flow Masters sound and look great. Good Luck
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:17:33 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: C:\CoolProgs\Pretty Park.exe

At 02:44 PM 3/2/00 -0800, you wrote:
>Delete this! Do not send it out to people. It has caused problems on
>several friends' hard drives!

The list server stripped the virus off (aren't you glad
we take precautions against this? (-: )and the list member
has been unsubscribed until he can protect his system
again viruses.

Ken Payne



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 21:03:32 -0600
Subject: Fw: FWD: Gas out!
From: Brent l Byers juno.com>



--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Janell Owens" hotmail.com>
To: btinglejanics.com, astud76yahoo.com, Sgtbyerscs.com,
tunepicc23hotmail.com, wiregoatjuno.com,
char605hotmail.com, coyote124hotmail.com,
davechristymsn.com, david_dunsonhotmail.com,
dewaynerobertsonhotmail.com, mawpawwebound.com,
joss_fordhotmail.com, jordan_ayershotmail.com,
jabyershotmail.com, kmo583smail.smsu.edu, kombgateway.net,
stephaniemaxwellhotmail.com, loridivineusa.net,
varnimlhotmail.com, one_eye7hotmail.com, ronchastusmo.com,
stacey_riehotmail.com, sar375smail.smsu.edu,
telliottmail.usmo.com, tlburkeumr.edu
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 16:26:25 CST
Subject: FWD: Gas out!
Message-ID: <20000301222628.16365.qmailhotmail.com>




Last year on April 30,1999, a gas out was staged across Canada and the
U.S.
to bring the price of gas down, and it worked. It's time to do something

about it again.

This time, lets make it for three days instead of just one. The oil
cartel
decided to slow production to drive up gasoline prices. Lets see how
many
Canadian\American people we can get to ban together for a three day
period
in April, NOT TO BUY ANY GASOLINE, during those three days. LETS HAVE A
GAS
OUT.

Do not buy any gasoline from APRIL 7, 2000, THROUGH APRIL 9, 2000. Buy
what
you need before the dates listed above, or after, but try not to buy any
during the GAS OUT. If you want to help, just send this to everyone you
know and ask them to do the same.

We brought the prices down once before, and we can do it again!
Come on North America lets stand together.

WE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Even if you receive this 100 times keep passing it around, this way you
know
everyone is being informed and no one will forget!!!!!!!
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #26
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