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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 01 Mar 2000 08:47:12 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 08:47:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #23
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Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 29 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 023

In This Issue:
Re: oil dipstick
Rear main
Pre-lubing
Re: oil dipstick
Oil leak
Re: Parting out 62 Ford
FE or 460
Power Steering
Re: Bronco Swap Help
Changing transmissions?
Re: Bronco Swap Help
Re: FE????
Distributor off
Re: Changing transmissions?
Re: Changing transmissions?
Re: Changing transmissions?
Re: performance 300
Re: FE????
9" rear discs
redneck mobile
bronco swap
Windshield leaks
Re: FE????
Re: redneck mobile
Valve cover color
Re: Valve cover color
Re: Valve cover color
Short Bed
Re: FE????
Bakin' Blocks
pvc and brake booster connections
Re: Short Bed
Re: pvc and brake booster connections
Re: Pre-lubing
Oil pan removal
y blocks
parting out a 69 and a 64
My Redneckmobile
Re: y blocks
Re: Power Steering
More info about X35JKBJ2838
crush collar on ford 9" rears.
Re: y blocks

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Don Burgess" teleport.com>
Subject: Re: oil dipstick
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 23:15:38 -0800

the tube is very loose. But the nut is tight....

----- Original Message -----
From: John Lord home.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 3:49 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: oil dipstick


> If it is an "in the pan" dipstick assy, the problem if the tube is tight
might
> be the
> threaded assy in the pan. it is a little cast piece that is riveted into
the
> pan with a small gasket in between, that gasket could be leaking. I have
had to
> fix that problem before... tis rare though
>
> Don Burgess wrote:
>
> > I have a 72 f100 4X4 with a 429 conversion. I was up on the mountain
> > playing around in the snow. When i got back home i noticed a slight oil
> > smell. When i poped the hood i noticed that the dipstick looked like
it
> > had come loose and was mooving freely and i looked at the base where it
> > screws into the pan and sure enough there was a little spraying of oil.
I
> > attempted to tighten it up but to my supprise it was already tight.
What
> > do i do? I thought i should ask before i pull the dipstick to
investigate.
> > Do you think this could be a problem with the tube or the pan? Who
sells
> > new dipsticks for a 429 pan?
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> > message.
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Rear main
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 14:38:34 -0500

Paul F. writes: >>My truck just recently developed a nasty leak. It
appears as if it's coming
from the tranny (T-18), however tranny oil is ok. Engine oil drops, so I
add more. Does this sound like a rear main leak? I can't seem to spot it
from anywhere else.. oil pan looks ok. If it is rear main, how does one
fix
it? I hear pull the engine, pull the tranny, or leave them both in.. ?<<

Pull neither.
Loosen motor mounts - jack up engine and block with 2X4 wooden blocks or
something similar - remove oil pan (note here you just might have to remove
the oil pump and pickup tube, but I believe that by rotating the crankshaft
a little at a time, you can "work" the oil pan out) - loosen all the
mains(1 thru 4) just 1/2 round or so and remove the rear main completely.
Now comes the hard part if it is an old rope type seal - by pulling on the
rope seal on one side with a pair of needle nose pliers, have someone
rotate the crankshaft the same way you are pulling. You may have to also
have someone else "push" on the other end with a blunt instrument of some
type at the same time. I've had to force real narrow banding(metal) around
the outer perimeter of the upper portion of the seal in order to "break" it
loose. >>> NOTE - Do not scratch the surface of the crankshaft. This will
cause it to eat the new seal rather quickly. If you have the neoprene seal
it is a breeze. Follow the same procedure, except it isn't hard to remove
the neoprene seal.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: "Robert Gunter" icnpharm.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:56:38 -0800
Subject: Pre-lubing

Back in the Bad Old Days, I used to operate a Fairbanks Morse 8 1/8 inch 6
cylinder Opposed Piston diesel engine.
In addition to that we had a huge R-114 air conditioning unit. Anyone who ever
served on a submarine knows of what I write.
The thing these two had in common was a pre-lubing system. The diesel has a
hand pump, and the AC unit had an
electric pump that would initiate as part of the starting sequence. It amazes
me that this is not standard equipment on
most cars and certainly trucks.

Anyway, there is one listed on the 4 wheeler website along with a lot of other
goodies I would like on the Mystery Machine.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fourwheeler.com/gear/nifty50.html


Rob


The Mystery Machine is a 77 Ford E250 Quadravan, 460 ci, 3.73 gears with a C6
Tranny.



------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: oil dipstick
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 15:01:04 -0500

> I attempted to tighten it up but to my supprise it was already tight.
> What do i do? I thought i should ask before i pull the dipstick to
investigate.

If this is the type that has a flared pipe fitting type attachment, I would
recommend wrapping the threads with some teflon tape to see if that
works.



------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Oil leak
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 14:43:36 -0500

Bill B. responded to Paul F.>>First thing I'd check is the valve covers,
then the oil sending unit on the back top of the block right behind the
intake manifold. You'll need a mirror
and a flashlight to check the sending unit. They are notorious for leaking.
Ask me how I know...<<

Yes! Make sure it is copming from the bellhousing before you do the
procedure I just previously described. Bill is correct in that these two
locations are notorious for leaking down the rear and making it look as if
it is coming from the bellhousing.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

Date: 29 Feb 00 12:16:18 PST
From: shawn tayloe netscape.net>
Subject: Re: Parting out 62 Ford

The truck is located in Colorado Springs, CO.

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FE or 460
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 14:56:52 -0500

Jeff writes: >> I'm new to ford engines. Can someone please explains what
designates
an engine as an FE. I have a 72 460, is it a FE?<<

NO! 460 is 385 series. No relation to FE except name FORD.

FE means FORD - EDSEL. When this design was intorduced in cars it was
designated by Ford as FE, and was 1st offered in '58 Fords and Edsels. 460
is derivitive of 429(or is 429 derivitive of 460) and was 1st introduced in
'68 Linclons

Welcome to the greatest list available for Old Ford Truck lovers.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: "Dave Emerick" hotmail.com>
Subject: Power Steering
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 15:24:27 EST

Hello....I'm new to this list and would like some info/opinions. I'll try
and keep this short....got a '75 F250 4x4 with the power assist steering.
I'd like to convert to the modern power box (77 later) steering, and I've
read the conversion the guy did in the FTE article section. My problem is I
am having a tough time finding the parts necessary to complete the
conversion. Our local boneyards are scarce...so here's my
question.....possible to use steering parts from any other donor source, or
even better..any companies that sell the required parts?

I realize I can have all the existing parts rebuilt...but would prefer the
newer style steering. My second question....if the cost or availability to
convert is going to be too difficult, does anyone know of a supplier for the
various seals, gaskets, hard parts to rebuild the existing PS components
(cylinder, control valve, etc.)?

Thanks


______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bronco Swap Help
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 15:26:05 -0500

> I'm looking for any technical articles on how to safely remove the front
axle
> without killing myself with the coil springs. I'm also looking for some
> help on what I'll need to replace when I swap it over to the new frame.
> ...
> I've had this Bronco for over 8 years so I'm really familiar with it but
> I haven't done much in the way of this type of work on it before. I did
> replace the rear springs and at one point but I've never swapped
> engines/trans/xfer cases etc like this would require before. Any and all
> help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

I've got a '79 that I have messed around with quite a bit.

Replacements:
Replace anything that is excessively worn, broken, or otherwise doesn't
look as good as you want it to.

No killer spring front axle:
Put a coil spring compressor tool on the spring to hold it, and lift the
front
end up. Once the front end (lifted by the frame rather than under the axle)
is up a bit, let the spring compressor tool allow the spring to expand
slowly.
Do this in several stages, one spring at a time, and you should be ok.

Transfer case:
The NP205 is one heavy beast ... make sure that you have some heavy
duty supports/jacks and a few strong friends when you take this out. It
is held in by 6 (??) bolts at the rear of the transmission adapter, and 3
bolts at the frame where the t-case rests up against it.

Transmission:
The transmission rests on a frame crossmember, and is held in by 4 bolts
on a plate. You *could* take out the one single bolt at the junction of
this plate and the transmission rear section, but it would be a nuisance
to maneuver the transmission around it during removal. The C-6 is also
one massively heavy unit, and the NP435 and Warner T-18 aren't all
that much lighter. There are 6 bolts that hold the transmission bell
housing
to the engine. On automatics, you have to drain the torque converter and
take the nuts off that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. On
manuals,
you need to take the bolts out that hold the transmission to the bell
housing.

Engine:
Once the transmission is out, the engine is held in by two big nuts on the
motor mounts. You will need to take out the radiator, and take loose from
the engine all the miscellaneous hoses and such that are held to the truck
and
connect to something on the engine. Once everything is loose, just take off
the hood, and lift out the engine (preferrably with some sort of a hoist.
Most
engines are pretty darn heavy, too! :-) ).




------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Changing transmissions?
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:30:09 -0800

Dad has a '67 F100 with a 240 and 3 on the tree. He has always complained
that the truck "needs another gear". Anyone know if we can use a newer 4 or
5 speed transmission with this engine? We understand that there will be
some modification involved, but are looking to minimize it. Anyone been
here, done this?

TIA
Rich


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 15:39:52 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: Bronco Swap Help

Serian wrote:
>

> Transfer case:
> The NP205 is one heavy beast ... make sure that you have some heavy
> duty supports/jacks and a few strong friends when you take this out. It
> is held in by 6 (??) bolts at the rear of the transmission adapter,

4 bolts from TC adapter to transmission. Can be removed from inside
truck with big floor cover off.

and 3
> bolts at the frame where the t-case rests up against it.

Should take off large bolt through rubber mounts and then 3 nuts/bolts
on frame bracket and 3 bolts attaching other part of bracket to TC. This
will allow you to wrestle TC around without any of that mount stuff
hitting.


> Transmission:
> The transmission rests on a frame crossmember,

Actually, the TC rests on this, the tranny has no mount to
frame/crossmember with man trans.


OX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:47:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FE????

Bill,

Come to Sears Point Raceway on Sat. April 15th for the
Good Guys Nostalgia Drags. I'll be running time trials
on my '53 F100. You can look at a 400C.

Of course this is an engine that Ford never made, but
should have. It is a 400 with flattop pistons and 4V
Cleveland heads.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

>From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
>Subject: Re: FE????
>Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:46:32 -0800

>Wow...a 400C...I'd like to see one of those. You were
>pretty close, the M or 335 series are the 351M and
>400, the Cleveland is it's own block. They share
>virtually the same heads except that the M series
>never came with the giant 4V style heads that some of
>the Clevelands did. The 460 is a 385, sometimes
>referred to as a Lima block I believe, but it is very
>different from the FE series.
>"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle
them >with bullets"


> ----- Original Message -----
>From: Matthew Schumacher 7x.com>
>To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 9:12 AM
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: FE????

>> Jeff,
>> Let me take a stab at it:
>> There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of:
>> Windsor blocks: 302, 351w
>> Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c
>> Modified blocks: 351m, 400m
>> FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428
>> and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460
>> Here are the most basic differences:
>> Windsors are often call ford small blocks. The
>>block itself is the smallest. They have stud
mounted >>rocker arms and well suited for building
racing >>engines.
>> Clevelands have huge valves and heads. They where
>>common in ford cars
>> Modified blocks are basically smog legal
clevelands. >> They aren't the most powerful blocks
stock, but some >>of the guys here know a lot about
them, and how to >>get a great amount more power out
of them.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Distributor off
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 15:09:42 -0500

John Dolson writes: >>Theres also no such thing as your distributor shaft
being off a tooth, it
doesn't matter. <<<

Whoah Nelly ! ! ! ! I disagree. You can have the dist off by a tooth and
it certainly matters. Yes, you may compensate by rotating the wires in the
cap, but if you have the wire in the #1 location of the cap and to the #1
sparkplug, it matters a great deal...

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Changing transmissions?
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 14:52:44 -0600

> Dad has a '67 F100 with a 240 and 3 on the tree. He has always
> complained
> that the truck "needs another gear". Anyone know if we can use a
> newer 4 or
> 5 speed transmission with this engine?

That "nother gear" would be an overdrive, or a combination of a lower rear
(numerically) and a 4spd ... both will require a floor shift conversion ...

Once you've accepted that there shouldn't be much problem since the 240 and
300 share bellhousings, just get a 5spd from a newer 300 ... sounds easy
enough, how easy it is could be another story though ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Changing transmissions?
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 13:00:18 -0800

>> both will require a floor shift conversion ...

Yeah, didn't think "5 on the tree" was a possibility.

>>Once you've accepted that there shouldn't be much >>problem since the 240
and
>>300 share bellhousings, just get a 5spd from a newer >>300 ... sounds easy
>>enough, how easy it is could be another story though >>...
That's what we're trying to find out. Did the "newer" 5 speeds use a
hydraulic clutch?

Knowing the bellhousings are the same helps and encourages us. (That may or
may not be a good thing...)

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Changing transmissions?
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 15:14:27 -0600

> >> both will require a floor shift conversion ...
>
> Yeah, didn't think "5 on the tree" was a possibility.
>

Would be a pretty neat trick though .. imagine trying to find all those
gears up there :)

Remember you can get a floor with a hole cut in it already from a scrap yard
likely and bolt that in ... at least the 73-79 had the center section that
you could unbolt, I guess I always assumed the 67-72's did too ... anyone
know when they started that ?

> >>Once you've accepted that there shouldn't be much >>problem
> since the 240
> and
> >>300 share bellhousings, just get a 5spd from a newer >>300 ...
> sounds easy
> >>enough, how easy it is could be another story though >>...
> That's what we're trying to find out. Did the "newer" 5 speeds use a
> hydraulic clutch?
>

Hmmm...they may have Tony will know for sure ... I wouldn't be surprised to
find that there were some intermediate years however that didn't use a
hydraulic and had the overdrive ...

> Knowing the bellhousings are the same helps and encourages us.
> (That may or
> may not be a good thing...)

Yup, I know how that feels :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 16:38:48 -0500
From: William King bgnet.bgsu.edu>
Subject: Re: performance 300

Eric,
You have three 4 speed transmission options for your 2wd truck, and a
couple 5 and 6 speed options. Some are very reasonable, other's aren't.
First, there are two types of 4 speed Toploader transmissions. One is
the bulletproof 1:1 4th gear toploader. I have one in my truck, another
in my 429 Torino. Very nice tranny, but a little expensive. You could
consider lowering your rear-end ratio (perhaps a 2.79), and thus getting
a nice cruising ratio in 4th, without getting an overdrive. The following
webpage may be helpful for computing your rpms at various speeds.
[http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://users.vei.net/pscalc/formulae.htm]. Use their 'gearing formula.'

Ford also made an overdrive version of the Toploader during the 70s (?).
It's a 1:1 3rd, with either a .76 or a .80 overdrive 4th (I don't recall
if it's .76 or .80). Reputadly, the overdrive Toploders are not as rugged
as the 1:1 Toploaders, but I don't know this for sure. Either way, the
Toploader swap is probably the easiest. I replaced my 3 speed w/ a Toploader
and only needed a new shifter hole in the floor, and had to have the drive-
shaft shortened. My humble opinion is that the overdrive Toploader is the
easiest route for you to go.

You may be able to use a T-18. You would have to consult the list members on
this. I think it's a 1:1 4th gear. Again, you wouldn't see any rpm
decrease over your current 3 speed without lowering your rear-end gears.

Richomond Gear makes a 1:1 (in 5th) 5 speed, and a .80 (in 6th) 6 speed.
They run about $1800 for the 5 speed, and $2800 for the 6 speed. You might
be able to rig a T-5 (5 speed) from a mustang for your truck. Haven't heard
of anyone doing this, but list members may have some input on this. You could
also look into rigging a T-56 (6 speed) or an older Clark overdrive for
your truck. Some list members have mentioned this in the past. Again, I
haven't heard of anyone doing this w/ a 300-six, but anything's possible
with money. Finally, there are some old, electric overdrive units floating
around, but they seem quite rare. I recall some list members have them in
their mid-60's trucks, and I recall Azie gets pretty excited when people
talk about them.

If you have any other transmission questions, feel free to fire away.
Ohio Bill
1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed
1968 Torino GT 429 4v 4 speed
******************************

Hi All! Ok Tony, you might be able to help me out here =) I am doing a
project engine for my '67 to be put in the truck this summer. I have the 'ol
240 and Ford 3-spd. I am looking for a 300 in junkyards. What years would
ya'll recommend me get? What should I put on this engine besides what's in
Clifford's books. AND what type of tranny would ya'll recommend me get. I
want more gears and an overdrive. No autos either. I know I'll have to get
the driveshaft shortened.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 16:09:00 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: FE????

The 351M/400 as well as the 351C belong to the same engine family known as the
335 series.
Jason

Bill Beyer wrote:

> Wow...a 400C...I'd like to see one of those. You were pretty close, the M or
> 335 series are the 351M and 400, the Cleveland is it's own block. They share
> virtually the same heads except that the M series never came with the giant
> 4V style heads that some of the Clevelands did. The 460 is a 385, sometimes
> referred to as a Lima block I believe, but it is very different from the FE
> series.
>
> "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Matthew Schumacher 7x.com>
> To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 9:12 AM
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: FE????
>
> > Jeff,
> >
> > Let me take a stab at it:
> >
> > There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of:
> >
> > Windsor blocks: 302, 351w
> > Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c
> > Modified blocks: 351m, 400m
> > FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428
> > and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460
> >
> > Here are the most basic differences:
> >
> > Windsors are often call ford small blocks. The block itself is the
> > smallest. They have stud mounted rocker arms and well suited for
> > building racing engines.
> >
> > Clevelands have huge valves and heads. They where common in ford cars
> >
> > Modified blocks are basically smog legal clevelands. They aren't the
> > most powerful blocks stock, but some of the guys here know a lot about
> > them, and how to get a great amount more power out of them.
> >
> > FE blocks *my fav* are ford big blocks. The FE block weighs about
> > 625lbs so they are not light. The FE has been in cars trucks, race
> > cars, big trucks, and just about everything else. The FE block
> > typically makes more torque then the blocks I mentioned so far. But
> > remember it all depends on the engine builder and the parts.
> >
> > Big blocks where found mostly in big trucks like F-350's however the 429
> > was built for cars. These engines are a very popular swap for old ford
> > trucks because they can really put out some power. I don't know much
> > else about the 460 except that Summitracing has a 520 ci stroker kit for
> > them now which is able to put out up to 700+ HP!!!
> >
> > Anyway, this is what I can recall off the top of my head, if any of you
> > old timers want to correct me or add to this, please do, I don't claim
> > to be an expert, but I do want to help out.
> >
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.




------------------------------

From: "Mike McPhillips" power-net.net>
Subject: 9" rear discs
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:53:38 -0500

Try Ford Motorsport or Currie enterprises for these items.
Mike
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.homestead.com/mcfordmotorsports/home.html


------------------------------

From: "Mike McPhillips" power-net.net>
Subject: redneck mobile
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:55:48 -0500

hey, it may be a thousand different colors, but at least it looks solid!
Mike
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.homestead.com/mcfordmotorsports/home.html


------------------------------

From: "Mike McPhillips" power-net.net>
Subject: bronco swap
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:58:27 -0500

front spriong removal. put truck up on jack stands, then place jack under
front axle. jack up axle just a little so you can undo the front shocks.
then slowly lower the front axle with the jack. pull out springs. done it
before like this with no problems.
Mike
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.homestead.com/mcfordmotorsports/home.html


------------------------------

From: "Robert Gunter" icnpharm.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 17:18:18 -0800
Subject: Windshield leaks

Greetings,

My windshield leaks and I wanted to get some advice. Should I try and stop it
myself (the moulding is long gone), or have it re-done by a pro.

Thanks,

Rob G.

The Mystery Machine is a 77 Ford E250 Quadravan, 460 ci, 3.73 gears with a C6
Tranny.



------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: FE????
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 17:35:31 -0800


> > Is this the answer I'm looking for?
> >
> > I never have liked the 360/390/427/428 because of the shaft rockers
>
> Jeff,
>
> I understand your comment, but... I have owned several
> different brands with
> shaft rockers and stud rockers. For a normal street engine, I
> would rather
> get the shaft.. I mean have the shaft rockers. I have never
> had a shaft
> system pull the mounting stud out of the head. Actually, I
> can't remember
> ever having a shaft related failure, period.
>

I'm wondering, what would the objection to shaft mounted rockers be? (This
question is directed mainly to Jeff.) I've seen stud girdles to prevent
movement of stud mounted rockers. I've thought that a shaft mounted rocker
system would be inherently more stable. Do shaft mounted rockers have more
frictional losses? If so would this honestly be an issue on the street?
I've seen roller tipped rockers for FE's would these hold up on the street?

Tom H.

------------------------------

From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 20:39:36 EST
Subject: Re: redneck mobile

In a message dated 03/01/2000 12:51:49 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
mcford power-net.net writes:

<< hey, it may be a thousand different colors, but at least it looks solid!
Mike >>

Just made ne think of my boyfriends multicolored truck, it has "Red Neck"
written all over it.

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*

------------------------------

From: ballingrbootheel.net
Subject: Valve cover color
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 20:07:14 -0600

Does anyone know where to get the gold color the '65 352's used for the
valve covers? The engine paint scheme is black with gold valve covers.
Most of the listings I've seen just show a Ford Gold, no years listed and
the want $8.99 a can plus $15.00 s/h. That is a little rich for my blood.


------------------------------

From: OldTruxaol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 21:22:48 EST
Subject: Re: Valve cover color

In a message dated 2/29/00 8:10:39 PM Central Standard Time,
ballingrbootheel.net writes:

> Does anyone know where to get the gold color the '65 352's used for the
> valve covers? The engine paint scheme is black with gold valve covers.

Did Ford switch to blue in '66?

------------------------------

From: TBeeeeaol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 22:13:48 EST
Subject: Re: Valve cover color

In a message dated 2/29/00 9:24:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, OldTruxaol.com
writes:

> > Does anyone know where to get the gold color the '65 352's used for the
> > valve covers? The engine paint scheme is black with gold valve
covers.
>
> Did Ford switch to blue in '66?

Yes Ford switched in 66. Short of paying for an aerosol can of "generic"
ford gold, the only other option you have is to take the paint code to your
local paint supplier and have them mix up a small batch. Bill: If I'm not
mistaken, you were given the correct paint code on the fomoco obsolete forum
when you raised that question a few months back.

Stock Man
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: "Warren Anderson" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Short Bed
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 22:45:36 -0500

To Anyone that can help,

Does anybody have a short bed or know some one who has a short bed?
Preferably in the Central Florida area. I need a bed(that's in better shape)
for my 78 F-100 and the bed has to have the gas tank door and not just the
gas cap on the outside of the bed. I stuck with just a finished cab but no
bed. I would even be willing to buy an entire truck to get a bed at a
reasonable price.

Warren


------------------------------

From: WEDIVE247aol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 22:52:59 EST
Subject: Re: FE????

Whats the easiest way to tell the differance between a winsor and a cleveland
just by looking at them ????

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 21:44:08 -0600
Subject: Bakin' Blocks
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>

Larry,
I don't know the specifics but it's basically an oven. When it comes out
all the crud falls off as ash. When I had my 300 done that was the way
both shops did the head and the block. As a side note, alot of machine
shops here in Austin have been a casualty of the hi-tech boom. They were
forced out of business due to the high rent. Also, one of the shops
mentioned something about the TNRCC waste rules.
Brett
>Baking is new to me. How does it work. I'm in west texas and haven't
come
>across this term.
>Larry
>>Are all the shops in your area converting to baking blocks instead of
hot
>>tanking them?
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 23:41:26 -0500
From: prices mciworld.com>
Subject: pvc and brake booster connections

Hello truck nuts,

I just purchased a 73 F100 with a newly rebuilt 68 or 69 429 engine. It has
a 850 Holley (supposedly) and Edelbrock performer 460 intake. Valve covers
are chrome Edelbrock with push-in breathers. Air cleaner is plain chrome
Edelbrock 14 inch diameter. Trouble is, it has no PVC valve. My local
inspection buddy says it must have one to pass inspection next month, among
other things. Original engine for this truck was a 360.

Does anyone know how the PVC was plumbed on the 69 429 engine? I think the
360 had a PVC in one valve cover with hose that ran to the rear carb base,
if I recall correctly.

Another question, where does the brake booster line go to? It is currently
hooked into the rear base of the Holley, and the booster appears to work
fine. But is this port manifold vacuum? I thought the booster line went to
the vacuum port on the back of the intake, but this port has very small hose
outlets compared to the large ID booster hose.

Any help would be appreciated, this is my first 429 experience.

hokiemon in NC



------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 23:42:13 EST
Subject: Re: Short Bed

a friend here in griffin, ga had a nice bed, griffin is about 50 miles south
of atlanta.
his number is 770-412-9991, it is a small junk yard, ask for howell


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 20:55:19 +1700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Re: pvc and brake booster connections

prices wrote:

> I just purchased a 73 F100 with a newly rebuilt 68 or 69 429 engine.
> Trouble is, it has no PVC valve. My local
> inspection buddy says it must have one to pass inspection next month, among
> other things. Original engine for this truck was a 360.

In Calif the 73s are exempt from the smog requirements (one of the perks
for getting to be a senior citizen). Not the same in NC?

However, clean air considerations aside, you'd want a PCV valve (are we
talking about the same thing?) anyway, wouldn't you, for the sake of
performance?

Trying to learn,
Denny
'72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 141K

------------------------------

From: SHill48337aol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 00:23:26 EST
Subject: Re: Pre-lubing

In a message dated 2/29/00 2:54:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rjguntericnpharm.com writes:

<< Back in the Bad Old Days, I used to operate a Fairbanks Morse 8 1/8 inch 6
cylinder Opposed Piston diesel engine.
In addition to that we had a huge R-114 air conditioning unit. Anyone who
ever
served on a submarine knows of what I write.
The thing these two had in common was a pre-lubing system. The diesel has a
hand pump, and the AC unit had an
electric pump that would initiate as part of the starting sequence. It
amazes
me that this is not standard equipment on
most cars and certainly trucks. >>

Well right off hand I would say you were on one or more of the 59 for Freedom
Boomers and a Machinist Mate. (I was a crew member on SSBN 611, and 620, and
the SSN 698.) But, if our truck and car engines did not wear out how could
we spend our spare time and bucks?? Over a few years it makes a big
difference, but most people sell their car under five years so it is not
worth the extra dollars for the manufactures to install it. Just my opinion.
Also, it would be hard to sell new cars if the all the engines would go 3 or
4 hundred thousand miles. In those old days we could not afford to have our
equipment fail, long swim back.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Oil pan removal
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 00:33:26 -0500


I did this with an old '75 F-250 one time.I unbolted the motor mounts & the tranny mount & jacked the motor all the way up until the tranny hit the floor pan(tranny tunnel) & the pan came out just fine.


------------------------------

From: A61fordtruckaol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 01:15:07 EST
Subject: y blocks

In a message dated 02/29/2000 1:41:39 PM EST, listarford-trucks.com writes:

>
> There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of:
>
> Windsor blocks: 302, 351w
> Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c
> Modified blocks: 351m, 400m
> FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428
> and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460
>
everybody always forgets the Y blocks and MEL engines

------------------------------

From: A61fordtruckaol.com
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 01:19:43 EST
Subject: parting out a 69 and a 64

hey everybody,

I am parting out a 69 ranger and a 64. both are short stylesides. both
cabs have exelent floors and rusty driprails. neither have engines. the 69
has a lot of decent trim as well on it and all the ranger emblems. help me
finish my "61 by buying some of this junk from me!!!!

Greg schnakenberg
61 stepside in process
65 custom cab with 460 swap going on now


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 00:24:37 -0600
Subject: My Redneckmobile
From: JOHN E DOLSON juno.com>

Cool Truck Schu, hope I can get a picture of mine up soon. I'ts a 76 F150
2x4. it's got two tone paint ( the cab is one color, and the bed is
another color) . the rear suspension is lifted 2 inches, and has 31x11.50
tires on mag wheels. the front suspension is stock, and stock size wheels
and tires with hubcaps. It also has a C.B. with a pair of 4ft long "hick
Stick" antennas mounted on the toolbox behind the cab. As for the engine
, It's a 390 I built last year, with a C6 and 3.80 gears.

John Dolson
Jefferson City, MO
1976 F150 Ranger XLT- REDNECKMOBILE
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 22:33:30 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: y blocks

What about flatheads and modulars?
Jason

A61fordtruckaol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 02/29/2000 1:41:39 PM EST, listarford-trucks.com writes:
>
> >
> > There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of:
> >
> > Windsor blocks: 302, 351w
> > Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c
> > Modified blocks: 351m, 400m
> > FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428
> > and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460
> >
> everybody always forgets the Y blocks and MEL engines
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 22:31:40 -0800
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Re: Power Steering

My 74 Crew Cab didn't have power assist. I used the box from a ford 2wd truck.
I rotated and bent the pitman arm. and make up a new bit of linkage to the
wheel.
Works great, the tie rod on the pitman arm did hit just climb up onto the spring
on a full turn till i arched the springs (3" lift") and it is easy to shorten
the steering column

Dave Emerick wrote:

> Hello....I'm new to this list and would like some info/opinions. I'll try
> and keep this short....got a '75 F250 4x4 with the power assist steering.
> I'd like to convert to the modern power box (77 later) steering, and I've
> read the conversion the guy did in the FTE article section. My problem is I
> am having a tough time finding the parts necessary to complete the
> conversion. Our local boneyards are scarce...so here's my
> question.....possible to use steering parts from any other donor source, or
> even better..any companies that sell the required parts?
>
> I realize I can have all the existing parts rebuilt...but would prefer the
> newer style steering. My second question....if the cost or availability to
> convert is going to be too difficult, does anyone know of a supplier for the
> various seals, gaskets, hard parts to rebuild the existing PS components
> (cylinder, control valve, etc.)?
>
> Thanks
>
> ______________________________________________________
> >
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

From: "erwin en aly suiker" zonnet.nl>
Subject: More info about X35JKBJ2838
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 13:32:14 +0100

Hay there i`m new on this list.And also new with the Ford Pick up Truck.
I have seen already manny questions and answers and read them with fun.
We are living in the Netherlands and bought in july 1999 A F350 from 1978
and now i want to have more info about a truck like this.The truck is coming
from Thousand Oakes CA and was shipped to the Netherlands in 1996 of
1997.The vinplate is X35JKBJ2838.The other numbers on the plate are
WB-155,COLOR-P7,TYPE/G.V.W-X359,BODY-KZH,TRANS-G,AXLE-36J,MAX
GVWR/LBS-9200,DSO-71.
I hope there is someone who can tel me a little bit more ?????

Greetings from some Ford minded people in the Netherlands.



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 08:41:42 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: crush collar on ford 9" rears.

Hey all.

I'm sure most of you have seen my rebuild article on 9" rears. I am
submitting it to the tech page, but would like to get opinions on pinion
nut torque, pinion bearing preload and crush collar "crushing" :-).
Check out part 16 on this for what I have now and tell me what you
think.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thecore.com/~luxjo/REBUILD9IN/F9inch_rear_end_rebuild.htm

OX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 08:47:15 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: y blocks

A61fordtruckaol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 02/29/2000 1:41:39 PM EST, listarford-trucks.com writes:
>
> >
> > There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of:
> >
> > Windsor blocks: 302, 351w
> > Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c
> > Modified blocks: 351m, 400m
> > FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428
> > and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460
> >
> everybody always forgets the Y blocks and MEL engines

Where there two 352's or did 1960 T-birds come with FE's? What was the
430??

OX

------------------------------

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