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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 29 Feb 2000 13:29:12 -0500 (EST) Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 13:29:12 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #22 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Mon, 28 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 022 In This Issue: Re: 460 Oil Pan removal Oil leak on 351M Re: Rebuild Question Re: trimming posts Re: trimming posts Re: trimming posts Re: Oil leak on 351M Trials and tribulations. performance 300 Rear disc brakes oil dipstick Just bit more info Re: 460 Oil Pan removal Re: List etiquette, why are we still here? Re: oil dipstick Re: Oil leak on 351M 78 Ford 1/2 ton van front end Timing problems Ticking / tapping Bronco Swap Help Re: [Re: Parting out 62 Ford] FE???? FE???? 78 VAN FRONT END Tapping Insanity --- Thanks! Re: FE???? Re: trouble timing 360 Re: FE???? Re: trouble timing 360 Re: FE???? Re: trouble timing 360 Weight of 460 heads timing trouble on a 360/390 Re: Weight of 460 heads unset 61-79-list digest Re: FE???? Re: oil dipstick Re: Drop spindels Re: FE???? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Moore, Jimmy" Subject: Re: 460 Oil Pan removal Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:46:35 -0600 On my 300 Six, I had to change the oil pump, and I'm getting ready to do it again. What I did was take a 4x4 block of wood and jack up the motor on the harmonic balancer. It has never hurt it. Just make sure to use some wood or you'll screw up the balancer. I've seen it done before (NOT ME!) Jim Moore 1964 Ford F-100 292 1981 Ford F-150 300 Six Oklahoma City, OK -----Original Message----- From: borrani att.net [mailto:borrani att.net] Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 2:25 PM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Subject: [61-79-list] 460 Oil Pan removal Hey all, I recently overtightened the oil pan gaskets on the 460 in my '75 F250. So, I have to remove the pan. I worked on it for many hours yesterday w/o success. I've disconnected the motor from its mounts, and have wedges between the block and the mounts, but the pan is still hitting the oil pickup, I guess. I'm going to get an engine puller so I can raise the motor a few more extra inches. Has anyone had to deal with this greasy, back- aching mess before? Any tricks (besides not over- torquing the pan bolts again)? Thanks, Steve S. Seattle, WA ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the message. ------------------------------ From: Paul Fogle Subject: Oil leak on 351M Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:46:27 -0700 My truck just recently developed a nasty leak. It appears as if it's coming from the tranny (T-18), however tranny oil is ok. Engine oil drops, so I add more. Does this sound like a rear main leak? I can't seem to spot it from anywhere else.. oil pan looks ok. If it is rear main, how does one fix it? I hear pull the engine, pull the tranny, or leave them both in.. ? Paul Fogle ------------------------------ From: TBeeee aol.com Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:00:31 EST Subject: Re: Rebuild Question In a message dated 2/28/00 7:33:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com writes: > > I know you probably want to save money by doing it yourself but try checking > with your local machine shop on the cost for "hot tanking" the block. > Basically they will acid dip the motor which will clean it up like new. The reality is that it is more cost effective to have it done. I recently went through this on my 240 rebuild. I have lots of pics on my site. Follow the My-Trucks link to my 66 rebuild page. Stock Man 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee ------------------------------ From: TBeeee aol.com Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:02:20 EST Subject: Re: trimming posts In a message dated 2/28/00 8:52:40 AM Eastern Standard Time, jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes: > > So what is this, "E-mail 101"? I thought this was a 61-79 Ford Truck group. YES -- and apparently necessary because many seem to quote much more than should be when responding including the senders signatures and listars unsubcribe info. Stock Man 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee ------------------------------ From: canzus seanet.com Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 18:15:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: trimming posts At 05:38 PM 25:02:2000 -0700, Kiernan, Denny wrote: >canzus seanet.com wrote: >> >> At 07:27 AM 25:02:2000 PST, gene gardner wrote: >> >> >When you include the original message in your reply, you should always trim >> >it to just a few lines (just enough to give a general idea of what you're >> >responding to). How, you ask? This is what I mean.....Space Above reply and space below reply > You didn't put a line between your reply and the >quoted text. Or do you mean a line space? Okay? Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in..... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... ------------------------------ From: canzus seanet.com Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 18:15:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: trimming posts At 04:23 PM 26:02:2000 -0600, John LaGrone wrote: >>> > Gotta agree here, also try to put a line (hit enter) between your replies >>> > and the quoted text. Please? >>> >>> >>> I dont understand this. You didn't put a line between your reply and the >>> quoted text. Or do you mean a line space? can you see this reply?? >> >> Most e-mail packages use standard quoting symbols. Mine uses the ">" in >> front of each line of text to denote quoted text. There's no need to >> re-invent the wheel here. > what is this, "E-mail 101"? yes >-- John >jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) >1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) >http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm >Dearborn iron rules!!!! > Can you find the answers?? This is why I was asking for the CR. Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in..... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: Oil leak on 351M Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 18:38:31 -0800 First thing I'd check is the valve covers, then the oil sending unit on the back top of the block right behind the intake manifold. You'll need a mirror and a flashlight to check the sending unit. They are notorious for leaking. Ask me how I know... "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Fogle To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 2:46 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Oil leak on 351M > My truck just recently developed a nasty leak. It appears as if it's coming > from the tranny (T-18), however tranny oil is ok. Engine oil drops, so I > add more. Does this sound like a rear main leak? I can't seem to spot it > from anywhere else.. oil pan looks ok. If it is rear main, how does one fix > it? I hear pull the engine, pull the tranny, or leave them both in.. ? ------------------------------ From: "Pat" Subject: Trials and tribulations. Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 17:53:55 -0800 Hi John, Saw your post on the List and copied it to my Great Truck Stuff file. (Valuable stuff, that file) Really liked the idea of a pre-lube set-up. Wouldn't mind hearing more about what you did there. - "Pre-luber - This was the second best money spent. I found a used 12V sealed hydraulic pump and mounted it on the frame. Suction comes from the oil pan (with a "tee" so I can drain it) then discharges at the back of the block where the oil pressure sender is. A quick run up before starting and no more dry heaves." The POR-15 remark got me to wondering what you'd coated and what you hadn't. There has been a fair bit of discussion on the list lately about this very thing and the discussion has been going on amongst the truckers in this part of the world (Super Natural British Columbia). Vot did you do? Pat Patsplace 77 F250 4X4 78 F150 W/Overloads 72 Ranger parts truck 79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction) 78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT. ------------------------------ From: "Eric Washburn" Subject: performance 300 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 21:36:33 -0600 Hi All! Ok Tony, you might be able to help me out here =) I am doing a project engine for my '67 to be put in the truck this summer. I have the 'ol 240 and Ford 3-spd. I am looking for a 300 in junkyards. What years would ya'll recommend me get? What should I put on this engine besides what's in Clifford's books. AND what type of tranny would ya'll recommend me get. I want more gears and an overdrive. No autos either. I know I'll have to get the driveshaft shortened. ------------------------------ From: "Dwayne Sklapsky" Subject: Rear disc brakes Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:03:20 -0800 Does anyone know of kits or adapters that would allow disc brakes to be installed to the back of a '79 F250 4x4? I pack an 11 1/2' camper and extra stopping power would be a nice feature. Any other suggestions would also be appreciated. Thanks, Dwayne ------------------------------ From: "Don Burgess" Subject: oil dipstick Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 08:34:01 -0800 I have a 72 f100 4X4 with a 429 conversion. I was up on the mountain playing around in the snow. When i got back home i noticed a slight oil smell. When i poped the hood i noticed that the dipstick looked like it had come loose and was mooving freely and i looked at the base where it screws into the pan and sure enough there was a little spraying of oil. I attempted to tighten it up but to my supprise it was already tight. What do i do? I thought i should ask before i pull the dipstick to investigate. Do you think this could be a problem with the tube or the pan? Who sells new dipsticks for a 429 pan? ------------------------------ From: "John Webster" Subject: Just bit more info Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 23:55:20 -0500 Hi Folks, Thought I would answer a few of the questions posted with a not quite as long winded as my last e-mail. - To Steve with the low compression '75 F250, I have only run the stock 4 barrel/intake and then the Edelbrock performer pair. I'm told other combinations work well, but I can say that the performer package looks good, fits well and even a klutz like myself can tune the Edelbrock carb (I have days I could damage a crow bar on a pillow). I used the performance model and though rich I've been playing with different things and it allows me some measure of safety before I hit on the combination I like. I also used the Comps Cam 268. Works well on the street. - To Pat in Beautiful BC, (God I loved sailing through the Queen Charlottes) the Por 15 was used on the frame, all over the frame. As a matter of fact anything in my way was painted. I can only say that in two years it looks the same as the day I put it on, the only place it peeled was my fault. I got lazy and tried to paint one or two spots that I know I didn't clean properly and yes the paint peeled (just like they say it will). A note, try to paint as much or use as much as you can in one session. It's shelf life when opened is very short (if you can get the tin open again). Also never hurts two wear double rubber gloves, mine ripped and my wife was so impressed with my black fingers at the wedding we had to attend. The pre-luber; the pump motor assembly I found was from a dump truck. You would be amazed at what you can find at heavy truck scrap yards (and cheap). I used hydraulic line (cost almost as much as the pump) and wired it with a heavy relay and toggle off my secondary battery. I have a total of $200.00 Cdn ( that's about $25 American isn't it?) in the whole assembly, that's all the little bits and pieces also. As a side note, I have a Ford motorsport pan on the other motor I'll soon be building but the one I have now holds 9 liters and is off a Louisville dump truck (I'll have to look for the part number) but its one heavy duty bugger. - Another cheap trick that I used, my old fuse block looked pretty sad and the cost of a 'Painless Wiring" set-up WAS painful. I picked up a nice fuse block from a late model car, its hinged so it swings up out of the way, it uses the new fuses and has loads of circuit space and the yard didn't charge for the part. The only cost was my time to put all my additional accessories and normal ones into the fuse block. I'm rambling again, sorry Ken. Hope this helps and if I can help anyone not make half as many mistakes as I have I'm happy. Regards, John ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: 460 Oil Pan removal Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:24:39 -0500 Two bolts drop the oil pump into the pan then it comes right out, piecacake :-) On rear sump pans there is a support bracket that is retained by one of the main cap bolts which also has to be removed. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >between the block and the mounts, but the pan is still >hitting the oil pickup, I guess. I'm going to get an >engine puller so I can raise the motor a few more extra ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: List etiquette, why are we still here? Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:47:37 -0500 I've been on this list almost from the beginning. Ken started it to get help on his own project and it grew into what it is today because of what it is, a family list of friends discussing what ever is close to their hearts, but primarily ford trucks. The rule that makes the personality of this list is that you can say anything you like about anything on your mind in a tastefull manner but keep it short and to the point if it is not truck related and don't keep the thread going forever if it is not truck related. Points about post trimming are will within the rules when it becomes a problem that needs attention just as pet control in a vehicle is certainly within the range of truck talk but, again, one reminder should be sufficient and it doesn't require the response from every list member to resolve such matters. Restraint, descretion, consideration, reason......these are the qualities we should display in our posts. Do this and we will all get along and enjoy the list. Those who can't handle any mail that does not directly pertain to their truck should look elsewhere for a list to help them with their projects. There are other lists out there which are very tightly controlled by a ------#$%%^$ type of individual and there are people who like that kind of list. We are not that kind of people so don't expect it here. We allow some straying as long as it is tasteful, entertaining or educational and is kept short and not carried on forever, that's the way it is and that's why the vast majority of us are still here after 4 years :-) -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >> So what is this, "E-mail 101"? I thought this was a 61-79 >Ford Truck >group. > >YES -- and apparently necessary because many seem to quote ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 03:49:12 -0800 From: John Lord Subject: Re: oil dipstick If it is an "in the pan" dipstick assy, the problem if the tube is tight might be the threaded assy in the pan. it is a little cast piece that is riveted into the pan with a small gasket in between, that gasket could be leaking. I have had to fix that problem before... tis rare though Don Burgess wrote: > I have a 72 f100 4X4 with a 429 conversion. I was up on the mountain > playing around in the snow. When i got back home i noticed a slight oil > smell. When i poped the hood i noticed that the dipstick looked like it > had come loose and was mooving freely and i looked at the base where it > screws into the pan and sure enough there was a little spraying of oil. I > attempted to tighten it up but to my supprise it was already tight. What > do i do? I thought i should ask before i pull the dipstick to investigate. > Do you think this could be a problem with the tube or the pan? Who sells > new dipsticks for a 429 pan? > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 05:58:59 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: Oil leak on 351M If you find it's coming from the back of the intake or valve covers and running down the back of the block and started as suddenly as you say, it's probably your PCV system. Try a ne pcv valve and make sure the hose isn't kinked or plugged. also check the carb spacer and make sure the passage is clear and sucking plenty of vacuum. Hope it's this simple for you.....George Paul Fogle wrote: > > My truck just recently developed a nasty leak. It appears as if it's coming > from the tranny (T-18), however tranny oil is ok. Engine oil drops, so I > add more. Does this sound like a rear main leak? I can't seem to spot it > from anywhere else.. oil pan looks ok. ------------------------------ From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell) Subject: 78 Ford 1/2 ton van front end Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 07:44:29 -0600 Hey All, I have read the article on adapting disc brakes to a 1/2 ton ford truck that utilizes drum brakes. I have a qeustion though. In a local paper a person has the complete front end, brakes and all from a 78 1/2 ton van, would this fit a 65 F100???? The price is right if all of the parts are in good shape but I didn't want to even consider it until someone told me it would work. Thanks for your help. Paul Rozell 65 F100 460 C6 ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Timing problems Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:43:09 -0500 John Kahrs writes: >>I replaced the cap and rotor on my '76 F100 last night, but it sputtered and popped, I checked the plug wires and firing order according to the Haynes book. Looks good. I thought the rotor shaft must be off a tooth, and sure enough it was. I went through the usual cyl no. 1 at TDC, balancer at 0 degrees, realigned the rotor and re-seated the distributor. Now everthing is back in line like it should be, right? No action. Nothing at all. Checked the spark: good spark. Exasperated, I drew out the distributor and started turning the rotor CCW back a tooth, then another tooth and presto! it starts running, and smoothly too. But when I point the timing light at the balancer, there are no numbers in sight. << If all you did was replace the rotor and cap and it was running previously, then someone before you might have rotated the wires in the cap(Put the dist in rotated one tooth or so off and rather than lifting it out and rotating the dist properly and just moved the wires a hole forward or backward as necessary). Most likely the damper has slipped and been that way for some time. Garys explanation for timing by ear/load will suffice until you can check the damper out with a known good one. As far as I know all FE's use the same alignment for timing on the dampers, but the 428 and 410 have a different balance, so you can't use one of them on your engine, but you can use them for alignment comparisons. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: Ticking / tapping Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:47:46 -0500 Matt Sch:: I believe you stated that you had to remove the header when you replaced your starter!!! I forgot this on my original reply yesterday, so here is one other suggestion. Make sure the tapping/ticking sound is not a leaky exhaust gasket!!! To the inexperienced ear(as well as some very experienced ears occasionally) these sometimes sound like metal to metal taps or clicks or whatever. Use the "hose to the ear method" to isolate the exhaust leak before proceeding.. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:13:53 -0800 (PST) From: Eric Finn Subject: Bronco Swap Help Hi all, I'm new to this list having just found it. I'm looking for some help/advice on my current '78 Bronco. I'm in the process of swapping the entire drive-train over to a new frame/body thats in much better shape and not rusting like the current one. The current one won't pass inspection anymore so I've got to do something and I can't not have a Bronco. I'm looking for any technical articles on how to safely remove the front axle without killing myself with the coil springs. I'm also looking for some help on what I'll need to replace when I swap it over to the new frame. Things like exhaust manifold gaskets, bushings, etc. I've had this Bronco for over 8 years so I'm really familiar with it but I haven't done much in the way of this type of work on it before. I did replace the rear springs and at one point but I've never swapped engines/trans/xfer cases etc like this would require before. Any and all help and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Eric Finn '78 Bronco "The Beast" (going under the knife shortly...) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:56:22 -0800 From: Dennis Pearson Subject: Re: [Re: Parting out 62 Ford] Thanks for your message at 02:50 PM 2/25/00 PST, shawn tayloe. Your message was: >I'll contact my brother in law and let him know that you want those parts. >I'll also ask him to talk to the cops to see if they will release the truck. >It has been almost 6 months in the impound lot. ...also, I either missed it or forgot it...where is the truck? Is it within a road trip distance from Kennewick? Also, of interest to "Unibodiers" (I just made that up.), there is a nice looking truck on ebay....I want it, but GA is sooo far away... Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA 1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C 1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed 1962 short stepside (Cadillac 500) I shortened this to only FT's http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:16:43 -0800 From: "JB MCIWorld" Subject: FE???? I'm new to ford engines. Can someone please explains what designates an engine as an FE. I have a 72 460, is it a FE? thanks jeff ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:17:05 -0800 From: "JB MCIWorld" Subject: FE???? Is this the answer I'm looking for? I never have liked the 360/390/427/428 because of the shaft rockers > -----Original Message----- > From: Jeff Bennett [mailto:jeffrey.bennett wcom.com] > Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 11:00 AM > To: 61-79-List > Subject: FE???? > > > I'm new to ford engines. Can someone please explains what designates > an engine as an FE. I have a 72 460, is it a FE? > > thanks > jeff ------------------------------ From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell) Subject: 78 VAN FRONT END Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:38:33 -0600 HI ALL, There is a 78 1/2 ton van listed in a local paper, I know the site lists a conversion for 73-79 disc brakes from a truck. This is probably the stupid qeustion of the day but would a 78 1/2 ton van work as well??? Thanks, Paul Rozell 65 F100 460 C6 ------------------------------ From: "Kim" Subject: Tapping Insanity --- Thanks! Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:31:33 -0600 Just wanted to say "Thanks" for the all help with the mysterious tapping and stethoscope suggestions! As soon as I can find a time when these "dustbowl winds" die down here *and* I'm not at work, I'll let the truck run for a few minutes more and see if it's a stuck lifter, etc. that'll clear up on it's own. Seems to be the majority of opinion. Thanks again for all your help! Kim (in Lubbock, TX --- With all this blowing soil, you'd expect to have some dunes to play on sometime soon :-> ) ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: FE???? Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:45:25 -0600 > I'm new to ford engines. Can someone please explains what designates > an engine as an FE. I have a 72 460, is it a FE? > No, a 460 would be a 385 series if I remember right ... Anyway the FE designation stands for Ford-Edsel which is the vehicles it was originally destined for. It came in various displacements from 332 to 428. These motors are quickly and easily distinguished by the intake manifold. This manifold is half of the head, so it is quite wide and actually goes under the valve covers. Someone mentioned that the inner spark plugs point towards each other as well. These motors were made until 76, though there are a few who have seen the larger truck version (FT) until sometime in the early 80's ... Some of us are nuts about these motors so watch what you say :) Just kidding of course ... these motors include everything from the "old reliable" 360 that has enough power to move itself around with a truck attached, to the fire breathing 427's and 428's ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:56:18 -0600 Subject: Re: trouble timing 360 From: JOHN E DOLSON I replaced the cap and rotor on my '76 F100 last night, but it sputtered and popped, I checked the plug wires and firing order according to the Haynes book. Looks good. I thought the rotor shaft must be off a tooth, and sure enough it was. I went through the usual cyl no. 1 at TDC, balancer at 0 degrees, realigned the rotor and re-seated the distributor. Now everthing is back in line like it should be, right? No action. Nothing at all. Checked the spark: good spark. Exasperated, I drew out the distributor and started turning the rotor CCW back a tooth, then another tooth and presto! it starts running, and smoothly too. But when I point the timing light at the balancer, there are no numbers in sight. Did you disconnect your vaccum advance? this would cause the timing appear way-off. Also, an engine won't run worth crap if you actually set your timing at 0 degrees, you have to be at least 5-6 degrees advanced. Theres also no such thing as your distributor shaft being off a tooth, it doesn't matter. All that matters is where your rotor points in relation to the contacts in the distributor cap , this is corrected by spark plug wire location and by turning the distributor body. it could be that your timing is off by a cylinder, you want the rotor to make contact with the spark plug wire just BEFORE the cylinder reaches TDC. Hope this helps some. John Dolson Jefferson City, MO 1976 F150 Ranger XLT, 390-- Redneckmobile ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:04:26 -0600 Subject: Re: FE???? From: "John LaGrone" > Is this the answer I'm looking for? > > I never have liked the 360/390/427/428 because of the shaft rockers Jeff, I understand your comment, but... I have owned several different brands with shaft rockers and stud rockers. For a normal street engine, I would rather get the shaft.. I mean have the shaft rockers. I have never had a shaft system pull the mounting stud out of the head. Actually, I can't remember ever having a shaft related failure, period. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: trouble timing 360 Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:05:51 -0600 > Theres also no such thing as your distributor shaft being off a tooth, it > doesn't matter. All that matters is where your rotor points in relation > to the contacts in the distributor cap , this is corrected by spark plug > wire location and by turning the distributor body. Uhm, that's not entirely true ... if you are off a notch then the cam and dist. aren't in their original relations, if you're off far enough one of the valves will be open when it fires and it still won't run or at least very well ... It can also be off just so that when you get the timing where its supposed to be you find the dist is twisted as far as it will go to one side ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:12:59 -0900 From: "Matthew Schumacher" Subject: Re: FE???? Jeff, Let me take a stab at it: There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of: Windsor blocks: 302, 351w Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c Modified blocks: 351m, 400m FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428 and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460 Here are the most basic differences: Windsors are often call ford small blocks. The block itself is the smallest. They have stud mounted rocker arms and well suited for building racing engines. Clevelands have huge valves and heads. They where common in ford cars Modified blocks are basically smog legal clevelands. They aren't the most powerful blocks stock, but some of the guys here know a lot about them, and how to get a great amount more power out of them. FE blocks *my fav* are ford big blocks. The FE block weighs about 625lbs so they are not light. The FE has been in cars trucks, race cars, big trucks, and just about everything else. The FE block typically makes more torque then the blocks I mentioned so far. But remember it all depends on the engine builder and the parts. Big blocks where found mostly in big trucks like F-350's however the 429 was built for cars. These engines are a very popular swap for old ford trucks because they can really put out some power. I don't know much else about the 460 except that Summitracing has a 520 ci stroker kit for them now which is able to put out up to 700+ HP!!! Anyway, this is what I can recall off the top of my head, if any of you old timers want to correct me or add to this, please do, I don't claim to be an expert, but I do want to help out. schu "JB MCIWorld" wrote: > > I'm new to ford engines. Can someone please explains what designates > an engine as an FE. I have a 72 460, is it a FE? > > thanks > jeff > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:18:06 -0900 From: "Matthew Schumacher" Subject: Re: trouble timing 360 John, I love how you describe your truck as the Redneckmobile, I to have a 76 Redneckmobile: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://odoa4.odoa.org/76.jpg As you can see it has 4 colors and 33" mud tires on it. schu > John Dolson > Jefferson City, MO > 1976 F150 Ranger XLT, 390-- Redneckmobile ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:20:03 -0800 From: wicowboy Subject: Weight of 460 heads Hello all, i been so busy with my projects (although I hate to say it but I recently sold a few of them) lately I haven't really said much here but now came up with a question. I just bought a set of brand new heads (I'm assuming stock, ford heads) on ebay with the casting code 7777 (thats all the seller could find on them). Anyone know any other info on these heads? One thing specifically I am looking for is the approximate weight of the 460 heads for shipping purposes although i have a feeling i'll just end up going to pick them up because of cost. I couldn't find a 7777 code in any of my ford books which leads me to beleive thats either not the casting code or its a 1980 or newer set of heads. My boooks all are all pre 1980. Can anyone verify this for me? Thanks again in advance WICoWbOy The remaining fleet: '79 F-250 4x2 460, C-6 '77 F-150 4x4, 460, c-6, dana 60 front/rear with stock coil susp., 40" Boggers '75 F-250 4x4, 390, np435, 44" ground hawgs ------------------------------ From: "James Barker" Subject: timing trouble on a 360/390 Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:25:35 -0800 I had the same issue. It only happens when I've removed the intake (twice in three years). Since I didn't feel comfortable keeping the timing set by ear, the first mechanic said I didn't have a stock harmonic balancer and the second said that he timed it to 24º BTDC which I know isn't right. I also would appreciate any info since this is the only thing that a mechanic does on my truck. Jim Barker '75 F150 Supercab FE390/C6 (was originally 360). ____________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________ I replaced the cap and rotor on my '76 F100 last night, but it sputtered and popped, I checked the plug wires and firing order according to the Haynes book. As it it, I can only set it by ear, which I don't think is a good long term solution, and the whole thing just baffles me. Could the balancer be misaligned? Anyone have any theories? jk -- John Kahrs kahrs pixar.com 510.620.3486 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:24:53 -0800 From: "John MacNamara" Subject: Re: Weight of 460 heads Weight is somewhere around 62 lbs. Thanks John wicowboy wrote: > Hello all, i been so busy with my projects (although I hate to say it > but I recently sold a few of them) lately I haven't really said much > here but now came up with a question. I just bought a set of brand new > heads (I'm assuming stock, ford heads) on ebay with the casting code > 7777 (thats all the seller could find on them). Anyone know any other > info on these heads? One thing specifically I am looking for is the > approximate weight of the 460 heads for shipping purposes although i > have a feeling i'll just end up going to pick them up because of cost. > I couldn't find a 7777 code in any of my ford books which leads me to > beleive thats either not the casting code or its a 1980 or newer set of > heads. My boooks all are all pre 1980. Can anyone verify this for me? > Thanks again in advance > > WICoWbOy > > The remaining fleet: > '79 F-250 4x2 460, C-6 > '77 F-150 4x4, 460, c-6, dana 60 front/rear with stock coil susp., 40" > Boggers > '75 F-250 4x4, 390, np435, 44" ground hawgs > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell) Subject: unset 61-79-list digest Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:53:13 -0600 ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: FE???? Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:46:32 -0800 Wow...a 400C...I'd like to see one of those. You were pretty close, the M or 335 series are the 351M and 400, the Cleveland is it's own block. They share virtually the same heads except that the M series never came with the giant 4V style heads that some of the Clevelands did. The 460 is a 385, sometimes referred to as a Lima block I believe, but it is very different from the FE series. "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" ----- Original Message ----- From: Matthew Schumacher To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 9:12 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: FE???? > Jeff, > > Let me take a stab at it: > > There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of: > > Windsor blocks: 302, 351w > Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c > Modified blocks: 351m, 400m > FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428 > and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460 > > Here are the most basic differences: > > Windsors are often call ford small blocks. The block itself is the > smallest. They have stud mounted rocker arms and well suited for > building racing engines. > > Clevelands have huge valves and heads. They where common in ford cars > > Modified blocks are basically smog legal clevelands. They aren't the > most powerful blocks stock, but some of the guys here know a lot about > them, and how to get a great amount more power out of them. > > FE blocks *my fav* are ford big blocks. The FE block weighs about > 625lbs so they are not light. The FE has been in cars trucks, race > cars, big trucks, and just about everything else. The FE block > typically makes more torque then the blocks I mentioned so far. But > remember it all depends on the engine builder and the parts. > > Big blocks where found mostly in big trucks like F-350's however the 429 > was built for cars. These engines are a very popular swap for old ford > trucks because they can really put out some power. I don't know much > else about the 460 except that Summitracing has a 520 ci stroker kit for > them now which is able to put out up to 700+ HP!!! > > Anyway, this is what I can recall off the top of my head, if any of you > old timers want to correct me or add to this, please do, I don't claim > to be an expert, but I do want to help out. > ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: oil dipstick Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:45:42 -0500 NOT! All of my older ones have leaked :-( Newer ones may use a differnt seal method since they don't seem to be leaking?? I will eventually weld them on when I take the pan off again and that will be the end of those pesky leaks :-) -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >pan with a small gasket in between, that gasket could be >leaking. I have had to >fix that problem before... tis rare though ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:45:30 -0800 From: "Andrew Doering" Subject: Re: Drop spindels I was thinking about your I beam setup, and I think it might work out really well for what I'm trying to do. Could you give me some more info about where I can find such a wonderful item? Thanks, Drew in Portland '65 F100 390 (in progress) >>> Jeff Simmons Andrew, I've haven't heard of anyone making drop spindles for the twin I-beam yet, As far as I know they only make the lowered I-beams. I have a set of dream beams on my 71', I do wish I could lower It one or two more inches up front, A dropped spindle would do the trick. Jeff in KC ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 13:32:08 -0800 From: "JB MCIWorld" Subject: Re: FE???? thanks for all the replies on this. You all have cleared things up for me. jeff > -----Original Message----- > From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com > [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of William S. Hart > Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 8:45 AM > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > Subject: [61-79-list] Re: FE????.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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