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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 29 Feb 2000 13:29:12 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 13:29:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #22
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 28 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 022

In This Issue:
Re: 460 Oil Pan removal
Oil leak on 351M
Re: Rebuild Question
Re: trimming posts
Re: trimming posts
Re: trimming posts
Re: Oil leak on 351M
Trials and tribulations.
performance 300
Rear disc brakes
oil dipstick
Just bit more info
Re: 460 Oil Pan removal
Re: List etiquette, why are we still here?
Re: oil dipstick
Re: Oil leak on 351M
78 Ford 1/2 ton van front end
Timing problems
Ticking / tapping
Bronco Swap Help
Re: [Re: Parting out 62 Ford]
FE????
FE????
78 VAN FRONT END
Tapping Insanity --- Thanks!
Re: FE????
Re: trouble timing 360
Re: FE????
Re: trouble timing 360
Re: FE????
Re: trouble timing 360
Weight of 460 heads
timing trouble on a 360/390
Re: Weight of 460 heads
unset 61-79-list digest
Re: FE????
Re: oil dipstick
Re: Drop spindels
Re: FE????

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Moore, Jimmy" ZymeTx.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Oil Pan removal
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:46:35 -0600

On my 300 Six, I had to change the oil pump, and I'm getting ready to do it
again. What I did was take a 4x4 block of wood and jack up the motor on the
harmonic balancer. It has never hurt it. Just make sure to use some wood
or you'll screw up the balancer. I've seen it done before (NOT ME!)

Jim Moore
1964 Ford F-100 292
1981 Ford F-150 300 Six
Oklahoma City, OK


-----Original Message-----
From: borrani att.net [mailto:borrani att.net]
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 2:25 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] 460 Oil Pan removal


Hey all,
I recently overtightened the oil pan gaskets on the 460
in my '75 F250. So, I have to remove the pan. I worked
on it for many hours yesterday w/o success. I've
disconnected the motor from its mounts, and have wedges
between the block and the mounts, but the pan is still
hitting the oil pickup, I guess. I'm going to get an
engine puller so I can raise the motor a few more extra
inches. Has anyone had to deal with this greasy, back-
aching mess before? Any tricks (besides not over-
torquing the pan bolts again)?

Thanks,

Steve S.
Seattle, WA
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
message.

------------------------------

From: Paul Fogle amtele.com>
Subject: Oil leak on 351M
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:46:27 -0700

My truck just recently developed a nasty leak. It appears as if it's coming
from the tranny (T-18), however tranny oil is ok. Engine oil drops, so I
add more. Does this sound like a rear main leak? I can't seem to spot it
from anywhere else.. oil pan looks ok. If it is rear main, how does one fix
it? I hear pull the engine, pull the tranny, or leave them both in.. ?

Paul Fogle

------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:00:31 EST
Subject: Re: Rebuild Question

In a message dated 2/28/00 7:33:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Tom.Hogan kla-tencor.com writes:

>
> I know you probably want to save money by doing it yourself but try
checking
> with your local machine shop on the cost for "hot tanking" the block.
> Basically they will acid dip the motor which will clean it up like new.

The reality is that it is more cost effective to have it done. I recently
went through this on my 240 rebuild. I have lots of pics on my site. Follow
the My-Trucks link to my 66 rebuild page.

Stock Man
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:02:20 EST
Subject: Re: trimming posts

In a message dated 2/28/00 8:52:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:

>
> So what is this, "E-mail 101"? I thought this was a 61-79 Ford Truck
group.

YES -- and apparently necessary because many seem to quote much more than
should be when responding including the senders signatures and listars
unsubcribe info.

Stock Man
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 18:15:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: trimming posts

At 05:38 PM 25:02:2000 -0700, Kiernan, Denny wrote:
>canzus seanet.com wrote:
>>
>> At 07:27 AM 25:02:2000 PST, gene gardner wrote:
>>
>> >When you include the original message in your reply, you should always trim
>> >it to just a few lines (just enough to give a general idea of what you're
>> >responding to). How, you ask?

This is what I mean.....Space Above reply and space below reply

> You didn't put a line between your reply and the
>quoted text. Or do you mean a line space?

Okay?


Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in.....
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

From: canzus seanet.com
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 18:15:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: trimming posts

At 04:23 PM 26:02:2000 -0600, John LaGrone wrote:
>>> > Gotta agree here, also try to put a line (hit enter) between your replies
>>> > and the quoted text. Please?
>>>
>>>
>>> I dont understand this. You didn't put a line between your reply and the
>>> quoted text. Or do you mean a line space?
can you see this reply??
>>
>> Most e-mail packages use standard quoting symbols. Mine uses the ">" in
>> front of each line of text to denote quoted text. There's no need to
>> re-invent the wheel here.
> what is this, "E-mail 101"?
yes
>-- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
>1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>

Can you find the answers??
This is why I was asking for the CR.



Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in.....
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Oil leak on 351M
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 18:38:31 -0800

First thing I'd check is the valve covers, then the oil sending unit on the
back top of the block right behind the intake manifold. You'll need a mirror
and a flashlight to check the sending unit. They are notorious for leaking.
Ask me how I know...

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"


----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Fogle amtele.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 2:46 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Oil leak on 351M


> My truck just recently developed a nasty leak. It appears as if it's
coming
> from the tranny (T-18), however tranny oil is ok. Engine oil drops, so I
> add more. Does this sound like a rear main leak? I can't seem to spot it
> from anywhere else.. oil pan looks ok. If it is rear main, how does one
fix
> it? I hear pull the engine, pull the tranny, or leave them both in.. ?




------------------------------

From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Trials and tribulations.
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 17:53:55 -0800

Hi John,
Saw your post on the List and copied it to my Great Truck Stuff file.
(Valuable stuff, that file) Really liked the idea of a pre-lube set-up.
Wouldn't mind hearing more about what you did there. -
"Pre-luber - This was the second best money spent. I found a used 12V sealed
hydraulic pump and mounted it on the frame. Suction comes from the oil pan
(with a "tee" so I can drain it) then discharges at the back of the block
where the oil pressure sender is. A quick run up before starting and no more
dry heaves."
The POR-15 remark got me to wondering what you'd coated and what you
hadn't. There has been a fair bit of discussion on the list lately about
this very thing and the discussion has been going on amongst the truckers in
this part of the world (Super Natural British Columbia). Vot did you do?
Pat
Patsplace
77 F250 4X4
78 F150 W/Overloads
72 Ranger parts truck
79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction)
78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT.






------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" flash.net>
Subject: performance 300
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 21:36:33 -0600

Hi All! Ok Tony, you might be able to help me out here =) I am doing a
project engine for my '67 to be put in the truck this summer. I have the 'ol
240 and Ford 3-spd. I am looking for a 300 in junkyards. What years would
ya'll recommend me get? What should I put on this engine besides what's in
Clifford's books. AND what type of tranny would ya'll recommend me get. I
want more gears and an overdrive. No autos either. I know I'll have to get
the driveshaft shortened.



------------------------------

From: "Dwayne Sklapsky" uniserve.com>
Subject: Rear disc brakes
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:03:20 -0800


Does anyone know of kits or adapters that would allow disc brakes to be
installed to the back of a '79 F250 4x4? I pack an 11 1/2' camper and extra
stopping power would be a nice feature. Any other suggestions would also be
appreciated.

Thanks,
Dwayne


------------------------------

From: "Don Burgess" teleport.com>
Subject: oil dipstick
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 08:34:01 -0800

I have a 72 f100 4X4 with a 429 conversion. I was up on the mountain
playing around in the snow. When i got back home i noticed a slight oil
smell. When i poped the hood i noticed that the dipstick looked like it
had come loose and was mooving freely and i looked at the base where it
screws into the pan and sure enough there was a little spraying of oil. I
attempted to tighten it up but to my supprise it was already tight. What
do i do? I thought i should ask before i pull the dipstick to investigate.
Do you think this could be a problem with the tube or the pan? Who sells
new dipsticks for a 429 pan?



------------------------------

From: "John Webster" primeline.net>
Subject: Just bit more info
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 23:55:20 -0500

Hi Folks,
Thought I would answer a few of the questions posted with a not quite as
long winded as my last e-mail.
- To Steve with the low compression '75 F250, I have only run the stock 4
barrel/intake and then the Edelbrock performer pair. I'm told other
combinations work well, but I can say that the performer package looks good,
fits well and even a klutz like myself can tune the Edelbrock carb (I have
days I could damage a crow bar on a pillow). I used the performance model
and though rich I've been playing with different things and it allows me
some measure of safety before I hit on the combination I like. I also used
the Comps Cam 268. Works well on the street.
- To Pat in Beautiful BC, (God I loved sailing through the Queen Charlottes)
the Por 15 was used on the frame, all over the frame. As a matter of fact
anything in my way was painted. I can only say that in two years it looks
the same as the day I put it on, the only place it peeled was my fault. I
got lazy and tried to paint one or two spots that I know I didn't clean
properly and yes the paint peeled (just like they say it will). A note, try
to paint as much or use as much as you can in one session. It's shelf life
when opened is very short (if you can get the tin open again). Also never
hurts two wear double rubber gloves, mine ripped and my wife was so
impressed with my black fingers at the wedding we had to attend.
The pre-luber; the pump motor assembly I found was from a dump truck. You
would be amazed at what you can find at heavy truck scrap yards (and cheap).
I used hydraulic line (cost almost as much as the pump) and wired it with a
heavy relay and toggle off my secondary battery. I have a total of $200.00
Cdn ( that's about $25 American isn't it?) in the whole assembly, that's all
the little bits and pieces also. As a side note, I have a Ford motorsport
pan on the other motor I'll soon be building but the one I have now holds 9
liters and is off a Louisville dump truck (I'll have to look for the
part number) but its one heavy duty bugger.
- Another cheap trick that I used, my old fuse block looked pretty sad and
the cost of a 'Painless Wiring" set-up WAS painful. I picked up a nice fuse
block from a late model car, its hinged so it swings up out of the way, it
uses the new fuses and has loads of circuit space and the yard didn't charge
for the part. The only cost was my time to put all my additional accessories
and normal ones into the fuse block.
I'm rambling again, sorry Ken. Hope this helps and if I can help anyone
not make half as many mistakes as I have I'm happy.
Regards,
John



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Oil Pan removal
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:24:39 -0500

Two bolts drop the oil pump into the pan then it comes right out, piecacake
:-) On rear sump pans there is a support bracket that is retained by one of
the main cap bolts which also has to be removed.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>between the block and the mounts, but the pan is still
>hitting the oil pickup, I guess. I'm going to get an
>engine puller so I can raise the motor a few more extra

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: List etiquette, why are we still here?
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:47:37 -0500

I've been on this list almost from the beginning. Ken started it to get
help on his own project and it grew into what it is today because of what it
is, a family list of friends discussing what ever is close to their hearts,
but primarily ford trucks. The rule that makes the personality of this list
is that you can say anything you like about anything on your mind in a
tastefull manner but keep it short and to the point if it is not truck
related and don't keep the thread going forever if it is not truck related.

Points about post trimming are will within the rules when it becomes a
problem that needs attention just as pet control in a vehicle is certainly
within the range of truck talk but, again, one reminder should be sufficient
and it doesn't require the response from every list member to resolve such
matters.

Restraint, descretion, consideration, reason......these are the qualities we
should display in our posts. Do this and we will all get along and enjoy
the list. Those who can't handle any mail that does not directly pertain to
their truck should look elsewhere for a list to help them with their
projects. There are other lists out there which are very tightly controlled
by a ------#$%%^$ type of individual and there are people who like that kind
of list. We are not that kind of people so don't expect it here. We allow
some straying as long as it is tasteful, entertaining or educational and is
kept short and not carried on forever, that's the way it is and that's why
the vast majority of us are still here after 4 years :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>> So what is this, "E-mail 101"? I thought this was a 61-79
>Ford Truck
>group.
>
>YES -- and apparently necessary because many seem to quote

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 03:49:12 -0800
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Re: oil dipstick

If it is an "in the pan" dipstick assy, the problem if the tube is tight might
be the
threaded assy in the pan. it is a little cast piece that is riveted into the
pan with a small gasket in between, that gasket could be leaking. I have had to
fix that problem before... tis rare though

Don Burgess wrote:

> I have a 72 f100 4X4 with a 429 conversion. I was up on the mountain
> playing around in the snow. When i got back home i noticed a slight oil
> smell. When i poped the hood i noticed that the dipstick looked like it
> had come loose and was mooving freely and i looked at the base where it
> screws into the pan and sure enough there was a little spraying of oil. I
> attempted to tighten it up but to my supprise it was already tight. What
> do i do? I thought i should ask before i pull the dipstick to investigate.
> Do you think this could be a problem with the tube or the pan? Who sells
> new dipsticks for a 429 pan?
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 05:58:59 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Oil leak on 351M

If you find it's coming from the back of the intake or valve covers and
running down the back of the block and started as suddenly as you say,
it's probably your PCV system. Try a ne pcv valve and make sure the hose
isn't kinked or plugged. also check the carb spacer and make sure the
passage is clear and sucking plenty of vacuum.

Hope it's this simple for you.....George

Paul Fogle wrote:
>
> My truck just recently developed a nasty leak. It appears as if it's coming
> from the tranny (T-18), however tranny oil is ok. Engine oil drops, so I
> add more. Does this sound like a rear main leak? I can't seem to spot it
> from anywhere else.. oil pan looks ok.

------------------------------

From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: 78 Ford 1/2 ton van front end
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 07:44:29 -0600

Hey All,
I have read the article on adapting disc brakes to a 1/2 ton ford truck that
utilizes drum brakes. I have a qeustion though. In a local paper a person
has the complete front end, brakes and all from a 78 1/2 ton van, would this
fit a 65 F100???? The price is right if all of the parts are in good shape
but I didn't want to even consider it until someone told me it would work.

Thanks for your help.

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6


------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Timing problems
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:43:09 -0500

John Kahrs writes: >>I replaced the cap and rotor on my '76 F100 last
night, but it sputtered and popped, I checked the plug wires and firing
order according to the Haynes book.
Looks good. I thought the rotor shaft must be off a tooth, and sure enough
it was. I went through the usual cyl no. 1 at TDC, balancer at 0 degrees,
realigned the rotor and re-seated the distributor. Now everthing is back
in line like it should be, right? No action. Nothing at all. Checked the
spark: good spark.
Exasperated, I drew out the distributor and started turning the rotor CCW
back a tooth, then another tooth and presto! it starts running, and
smoothly too.
But when I point the timing light at the balancer, there are no numbers in
sight. <<

If all you did was replace the rotor and cap and it was running previously,
then someone before you might have rotated the wires in the cap(Put the
dist in rotated one tooth or so off and rather than lifting it out and
rotating the dist properly and just moved the wires a hole forward or
backward as necessary). Most likely the damper has slipped and been that
way for some time. Garys explanation for timing by ear/load will suffice
until you can check the damper out with a known good one. As far as I know
all FE's use the same alignment for timing on the dampers, but the 428 and
410 have a different balance, so you can't use one of them on your engine,
but you can use them for alignment comparisons.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Ticking / tapping
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:47:46 -0500

Matt Sch:: I believe you stated that you had to remove the header when you
replaced your starter!!! I forgot this on my original reply yesterday, so
here is one other suggestion. Make sure the tapping/ticking sound is not
a leaky exhaust gasket!!! To the inexperienced ear(as well as some very
experienced ears occasionally) these sometimes sound like metal to metal
taps or clicks or whatever. Use the "hose to the ear method" to isolate
the exhaust leak before proceeding..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:13:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Finn yahoo.com>
Subject: Bronco Swap Help

Hi all,

I'm new to this list having just found it. I'm looking for some
help/advice on my current '78 Bronco. I'm in the process of swapping the
entire drive-train over to a new frame/body thats in much better shape and
not rusting like the current one. The current one won't pass inspection
anymore so I've got to do something and I can't not have a Bronco. I'm
looking for any technical articles on how to safely remove the front axle
without killing myself with the coil springs. I'm also looking for some
help on what I'll need to replace when I swap it over to the new frame.
Things like exhaust manifold gaskets, bushings, etc. I've had this Bronco
for over 8 years so I'm really familiar with it but I haven't done much in
the way of this type of work on it before. I did replace the rear springs
and at one point but I've never swapped engines/trans/xfer cases etc like
this would require before. Any and all help and advice would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks,

Eric Finn
'78 Bronco "The Beast" (going under the knife shortly...)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 06:56:22 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: [Re: Parting out 62 Ford]

Thanks for your message at 02:50 PM 2/25/00 PST, shawn tayloe. Your message
was:
>I'll contact my brother in law and let him know that you want those parts.
>I'll also ask him to talk to the cops to see if they will release the truck.
>It has been almost 6 months in the impound lot.


...also, I either missed it or forgot it...where is the truck? Is it
within a road trip distance from Kennewick?

Also, of interest to "Unibodiers" (I just made that up.), there is a nice
looking truck on ebay....I want it, but GA is sooo far away...



Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (Cadillac 500)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:16:43 -0800
From: "JB MCIWorld" mciworld.com>
Subject: FE????


I'm new to ford engines. Can someone please explains what designates
an engine as an FE. I have a 72 460, is it a FE?

thanks
jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:17:05 -0800
From: "JB MCIWorld" mciworld.com>
Subject: FE????

Is this the answer I'm looking for?

I never have liked the 360/390/427/428 because of the shaft rockers

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Bennett [mailto:jeffrey.bennett wcom.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 11:00 AM
> To: 61-79-List
> Subject: FE????
>
>
> I'm new to ford engines. Can someone please explains what designates
> an engine as an FE. I have a 72 460, is it a FE?
>
> thanks
> jeff

------------------------------

From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: 78 VAN FRONT END
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:38:33 -0600

HI ALL,
There is a 78 1/2 ton van listed in a local paper, I know the site lists a
conversion for 73-79 disc brakes from a truck. This is probably the stupid
qeustion of the day but would a 78 1/2 ton van work as well???

Thanks,

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6


------------------------------

From: "Kim" arn.net>
Subject: Tapping Insanity --- Thanks!
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:31:33 -0600

Just wanted to say "Thanks" for the all help with the mysterious tapping and
stethoscope suggestions! As soon as I can find a time when these "dustbowl
winds" die down here *and* I'm not at work, I'll let the truck run for a few
minutes more and see if it's a stuck lifter, etc. that'll clear up on it's
own. Seems to be the majority of opinion. Thanks again for all your help!

Kim
(in Lubbock, TX --- With all this blowing soil, you'd expect to have some
dunes to play on sometime soon :-> )




------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: FE????
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:45:25 -0600

> I'm new to ford engines. Can someone please explains what designates
> an engine as an FE. I have a 72 460, is it a FE?
>
No, a 460 would be a 385 series if I remember right ...

Anyway the FE designation stands for Ford-Edsel which is the vehicles it was
originally destined for. It came in various displacements from 332 to 428.
These motors are quickly and easily distinguished by the intake manifold.
This manifold is half of the head, so it is quite wide and actually goes
under the valve covers. Someone mentioned that the inner spark plugs point
towards each other as well.

These motors were made until 76, though there are a few who have seen the
larger truck version (FT) until sometime in the early 80's ...

Some of us are nuts about these motors so watch what you say :) Just
kidding of course ... these motors include everything from the "old
reliable" 360 that has enough power to move itself around with a truck
attached, to the fire breathing 427's and 428's ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 10:56:18 -0600
Subject: Re: trouble timing 360
From: JOHN E DOLSON juno.com>


I replaced the cap and rotor on my '76 F100 last night, but it sputtered
and popped, I checked the plug wires and firing order according to the
Haynes book.
Looks good. I thought the rotor shaft must be off a tooth, and sure
enough it was. I went through the usual cyl no. 1 at TDC, balancer at 0
degrees,
realigned the rotor and re-seated the distributor. Now everthing is back
in line like it should be, right? No action. Nothing at all. Checked the
spark:
good spark.

Exasperated, I drew out the distributor and started turning the rotor CCW
back a tooth, then another tooth and presto! it starts running, and
smoothly too.
But when I point the timing light at the balancer, there are no numbers
in sight.

Did you disconnect your vaccum advance? this would cause the timing
appear way-off. Also, an engine won't run worth crap if you actually set
your timing at 0 degrees, you have to be at least 5-6 degrees advanced.
Theres also no such thing as your distributor shaft being off a tooth, it
doesn't matter. All that matters is where your rotor points in relation
to the contacts in the distributor cap , this is corrected by spark plug
wire location and by turning the distributor body. it could be that your
timing is off by a cylinder, you want the rotor to make contact with the
spark plug wire just BEFORE the cylinder reaches TDC. Hope this helps
some.

John Dolson
Jefferson City, MO
1976 F150 Ranger XLT, 390-- Redneckmobile
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:04:26 -0600
Subject: Re: FE????
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> Is this the answer I'm looking for?
>
> I never have liked the 360/390/427/428 because of the shaft rockers

Jeff,

I understand your comment, but... I have owned several different brands with
shaft rockers and stud rockers. For a normal street engine, I would rather
get the shaft.. I mean have the shaft rockers. I have never had a shaft
system pull the mounting stud out of the head. Actually, I can't remember
ever having a shaft related failure, period.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: trouble timing 360
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:05:51 -0600


> Theres also no such thing as your distributor shaft being off a tooth, it
> doesn't matter. All that matters is where your rotor points in relation
> to the contacts in the distributor cap , this is corrected by spark plug
> wire location and by turning the distributor body.

Uhm, that's not entirely true ... if you are off a notch then the cam and
dist. aren't in their original relations, if you're off far enough one of
the valves will be open when it fires and it still won't run or at least
very well ... It can also be off just so that when you get the timing where
its supposed to be you find the dist is twisted as far as it will go to one
side ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:12:59 -0900
From: "Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com>
Subject: Re: FE????

Jeff,

Let me take a stab at it:

There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of:

Windsor blocks: 302, 351w
Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c
Modified blocks: 351m, 400m
FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428
and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460

Here are the most basic differences:

Windsors are often call ford small blocks. The block itself is the
smallest. They have stud mounted rocker arms and well suited for
building racing engines.

Clevelands have huge valves and heads. They where common in ford cars

Modified blocks are basically smog legal clevelands. They aren't the
most powerful blocks stock, but some of the guys here know a lot about
them, and how to get a great amount more power out of them.

FE blocks *my fav* are ford big blocks. The FE block weighs about
625lbs so they are not light. The FE has been in cars trucks, race
cars, big trucks, and just about everything else. The FE block
typically makes more torque then the blocks I mentioned so far. But
remember it all depends on the engine builder and the parts.

Big blocks where found mostly in big trucks like F-350's however the 429
was built for cars. These engines are a very popular swap for old ford
trucks because they can really put out some power. I don't know much
else about the 460 except that Summitracing has a 520 ci stroker kit for
them now which is able to put out up to 700+ HP!!!

Anyway, this is what I can recall off the top of my head, if any of you
old timers want to correct me or add to this, please do, I don't claim
to be an expert, but I do want to help out.

schu


"JB MCIWorld" wrote:
>
> I'm new to ford engines. Can someone please explains what designates
> an engine as an FE. I have a 72 460, is it a FE?
>
> thanks
> jeff
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:18:06 -0900
From: "Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com>
Subject: Re: trouble timing 360

John,

I love how you describe your truck as the Redneckmobile, I to have a 76
Redneckmobile:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://odoa4.odoa.org/76.jpg

As you can see it has 4 colors and 33" mud tires on it.

schu




> John Dolson
> Jefferson City, MO
> 1976 F150 Ranger XLT, 390-- Redneckmobile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:20:03 -0800
From: wicowboy gateway.net>
Subject: Weight of 460 heads

Hello all, i been so busy with my projects (although I hate to say it
but I recently sold a few of them) lately I haven't really said much
here but now came up with a question. I just bought a set of brand new
heads (I'm assuming stock, ford heads) on ebay with the casting code
7777 (thats all the seller could find on them). Anyone know any other
info on these heads? One thing specifically I am looking for is the
approximate weight of the 460 heads for shipping purposes although i
have a feeling i'll just end up going to pick them up because of cost.
I couldn't find a 7777 code in any of my ford books which leads me to
beleive thats either not the casting code or its a 1980 or newer set of
heads. My boooks all are all pre 1980. Can anyone verify this for me?
Thanks again in advance

WICoWbOy


The remaining fleet:
'79 F-250 4x2 460, C-6
'77 F-150 4x4, 460, c-6, dana 60 front/rear with stock coil susp., 40"
Boggers
'75 F-250 4x4, 390, np435, 44" ground hawgs

------------------------------

From: "James Barker" proms.com>
Subject: timing trouble on a 360/390
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:25:35 -0800

I had the same issue. It only happens when I've removed the intake (twice
in three years). Since I didn't feel comfortable keeping the timing set by
ear, the first mechanic said I didn't have a stock harmonic balancer and the
second said that he timed it to 24 BTDC which I know isn't right. I also
would appreciate any info since this is the only thing that a mechanic does
on my truck.

Jim Barker
'75 F150 Supercab FE390/C6 (was originally 360).



____________________________________________________________________________
_________________________________________________
I replaced the cap and rotor on my '76 F100 last night, but it sputtered and
popped, I checked the plug wires and firing order according to the Haynes
book.

As it it, I can only set it by ear, which I don't think is a good long term
solution, and the whole thing just baffles me.

Could the balancer be misaligned? Anyone have any theories?

jk

--
John Kahrs

kahrs pixar.com
510.620.3486


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:24:53 -0800
From: "John MacNamara" zhone.com>
Subject: Re: Weight of 460 heads

Weight is somewhere around 62 lbs.

Thanks
John

wicowboy wrote:

> Hello all, i been so busy with my projects (although I hate to say it
> but I recently sold a few of them) lately I haven't really said much
> here but now came up with a question. I just bought a set of brand new
> heads (I'm assuming stock, ford heads) on ebay with the casting code
> 7777 (thats all the seller could find on them). Anyone know any other
> info on these heads? One thing specifically I am looking for is the
> approximate weight of the 460 heads for shipping purposes although i
> have a feeling i'll just end up going to pick them up because of cost.
> I couldn't find a 7777 code in any of my ford books which leads me to
> beleive thats either not the casting code or its a 1980 or newer set of
> heads. My boooks all are all pre 1980. Can anyone verify this for me?
> Thanks again in advance
>
> WICoWbOy
>
> The remaining fleet:
> '79 F-250 4x2 460, C-6
> '77 F-150 4x4, 460, c-6, dana 60 front/rear with stock coil susp., 40"
> Boggers
> '75 F-250 4x4, 390, np435, 44" ground hawgs
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: unset 61-79-list digest
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:53:13 -0600




------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: FE????
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:46:32 -0800

Wow...a 400C...I'd like to see one of those. You were pretty close, the M or
335 series are the 351M and 400, the Cleveland is it's own block. They share
virtually the same heads except that the M series never came with the giant
4V style heads that some of the Clevelands did. The 460 is a 385, sometimes
referred to as a Lima block I believe, but it is very different from the FE
series.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"


----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Schumacher 7x.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 9:12 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: FE????


> Jeff,
>
> Let me take a stab at it:
>
> There are 5 basic ford engines that I am aware of:
>
> Windsor blocks: 302, 351w
> Cleveland blocks: 351c, 400c
> Modified blocks: 351m, 400m
> FE blocks: 332, 352, 360, 390, 427, 428
> and Big blocks: 370, 429, 460
>
> Here are the most basic differences:
>
> Windsors are often call ford small blocks. The block itself is the
> smallest. They have stud mounted rocker arms and well suited for
> building racing engines.
>
> Clevelands have huge valves and heads. They where common in ford cars
>
> Modified blocks are basically smog legal clevelands. They aren't the
> most powerful blocks stock, but some of the guys here know a lot about
> them, and how to get a great amount more power out of them.
>
> FE blocks *my fav* are ford big blocks. The FE block weighs about
> 625lbs so they are not light. The FE has been in cars trucks, race
> cars, big trucks, and just about everything else. The FE block
> typically makes more torque then the blocks I mentioned so far. But
> remember it all depends on the engine builder and the parts.
>
> Big blocks where found mostly in big trucks like F-350's however the 429
> was built for cars. These engines are a very popular swap for old ford
> trucks because they can really put out some power. I don't know much
> else about the 460 except that Summitracing has a 520 ci stroker kit for
> them now which is able to put out up to 700+ HP!!!
>
> Anyway, this is what I can recall off the top of my head, if any of you
> old timers want to correct me or add to this, please do, I don't claim
> to be an expert, but I do want to help out.
>




------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: oil dipstick
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:45:42 -0500

NOT! All of my older ones have leaked :-( Newer ones may use a differnt
seal method since they don't seem to be leaking?? I will eventually weld
them on when I take the pan off again and that will be the end of those
pesky leaks :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>pan with a small gasket in between, that gasket could be
>leaking. I have had to
>fix that problem before... tis rare though

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:45:30 -0800
From: "Andrew Doering" pgn.com>
Subject: Re: Drop spindels

I was thinking about your I beam setup, and I think it might work out really well for what I'm trying to do. Could you give me some more info about where I can find such a wonderful item?

Thanks,
Drew in Portland
'65 F100 390 (in progress)

>>> Jeff Simmons juno.com> 02/25 2:50 PM >>>
Andrew, I've haven't heard of anyone making drop spindles for the twin
I-beam yet, As far as I know they only make the lowered I-beams. I have a
set of dream beams on my 71',
I do wish I could lower It one or two more inches up front, A dropped
spindle would do the trick.
Jeff in KC




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 13:32:08 -0800
From: "JB MCIWorld" mciworld.com>
Subject: Re: FE????

thanks for all the replies on this. You all have cleared things
up for me.

jeff

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:61-79-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of William S. Hart
> Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 8:45 AM
> To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: FE????....


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