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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Mon, 28 Feb 2000 16:24:06 -0500 (EST)
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 16:24:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #21
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Sun, 27 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 021

In This Issue:
˙so-8859-1?B?MzYwuiBPZmZ5IA˙Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 17:02:
Re: HOWSTHAT!
Fwd: Message submitted to '61-79-list'
Re: Tapping insanity
Hot Tanking
Power Steering pump color
Re: Power Steering pump color
Re: 390 ticking
Trials and Tribulations
Re: Rebuild Question
Re: trimming posts
Tapping/knocking
Re: 390 ticking
Re: Power Steering pump color
Re: First Timer --- Holley 4bbl
Re: Hot Tanking
Re: Power Steering pump color
Re: Steering stabilizer for E150?
Re: Hot tanks
Re: Drop spindels
timing trouble on a 360/390
Re: timing trouble on a 360/390
Re: timing trouble on a 360/390
Re: timing trouble on a 360/390
Re: timing trouble on a 360/390
460 Oil Pan removal
Re: 460 Oil Pan removal

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Mike McPhillips" power-net.net>
Subject: ˙so-8859-1?B?MzYwuiBPZmZ5IA˙Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 17:02:

I had one of these on a 289 in a 67 Ranchero I had. Topped with a 735
Holley & headers, it worked fine. Good all around performance. Decent
milage too, 18 - 20 on the fwy. 'Course, that was with the all to familiar
3.00 gears.
Mike
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.homestead.com/mcfordmotorsports/home.html


------------------------------

From: "Bill Deacon" surfside.net>
Subject: Re: HOWSTHAT!
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 13:53:36 -0800

you can always tell a sniveling,mean spirited jackass by his potential
for
meanness to small animals and probably anything else small or
weaker!HOWSTHAT!
Boy, I was only funnin' with you all---I apologize for offending any of you
cat lovers out there and after this post I will stick to Ford truck
discussion exclusively. Besides, I do love cats, they're great with catsup.



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 19:17:48 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Fwd: Message submitted to '61-79-list'

Forwarded for: my72fordrangerxlt yahoo.com


I hope this message gets to the list. I was a list
member severaly months ago, and then had no access to
the internet. I have just re-inlisted! I remember
writing to the list differantly than i had to now????
Well had to replace the starter i my 1972 f-100
ranger xlt (having headers make it a job) . so well i
have it all apart i have decided to lift the motor a
little and put a high flow oil pump in. that is
something i have wanted to do for a long time, after
the truck is warm at stop lights oil pressure can drop
as low as 10 pounds!
before spring i am putting new outer rearend
seals , I am putting a one wire alt.. because i could
not find a regulator to work with my TESTED alt..( i
tried 3 of them)
well i havn't been conected to the internet I
had wished i could write to the list many times. I am
glad to be back..
from one ford lover
to many... later




------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 21:57:49 -0500
From: William King bgnet.bgsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Tapping insanity

Kim,
As Jason & Kathy Kendrick suggested, I've had good luck making my own
stethoscope from a simple length of heater hose. I put one end over my
ear, and the other onto a non-moving engine part. You should hear noisy
lifters by putting the hose onto the intake manifold, next to one of the
heads. You can also listen to the oil-pan, fuel pump, and the bell housing
(for example). I was quite amazed by all the noises I could hear with the
heater hose. Actually kind of fun!
Good luck...
Ohio Bill

*****
Kim's message snipped...
*****
>Kim, welcome to the list! FE fuel pumps sometimes make a knocking sound.
>I'm not sure why, but they do, and it has caused many people great concern
>over nothing. Have you heard of a mechanics stethascope? You can use one of
>these to pinpiont where the noise is coming from. Or you could use a wooden
>dowel, long metal rod, etc.. Place one end on the suspected noise-maker,
>hold the other end in your hand, and hold your hand against your ear. Just
>please be carefull around those moving parts!


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 21:17:28 -0600
Subject: Hot Tanking
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>

Folks,
Are all the shops in your area converting to baking blocks instead of hot
tanking them? That's become the norm here and I was just wondering if
it's a national thing due to EPA reg's or whatever.
Brett
Super75cab
>Have you had the block hot tanked? If not I would HIGHLY recommend it.
>About a $40 charge at your local machine shop.
>Erik Marquez


________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 21:23:03 -0600
Subject: Power Steering pump color
From: Brett L Habben juno.com>

Folks,
What color is the Power Steering pump supposed to be for my '75 F100. I
was cleaning it up today and under the grease discovered that it is a
turquoise metallic. Can you get this color paint? It's the standard old
Ford round pump.
Brett
Super75cab
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: Power Steering pump color
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 20:28:59 -0600

When I was selling auto parts, our rebuilt pumps were apinted this color.
The pump on my Ford is painted black. It's an original Ford pump off of a
'73 F250.
Jason

Subject: [61-79-list] Power Steering pump color


>Folks,
>What color is the Power Steering pump supposed to be for my '75 F100. It's
the standard old Ford round pump.
>Brett



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 21:06:47 -0900
From: "Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com>
Subject: Re: 390 ticking

What is the easiest way to check to see If I have a sticking lifter?

schu

John LaGrone wrote:
>
> Schu,
>
> If the ticking is in the valve train, about the only thing left is a worn
> rocker arm or a sticky lifter.
>
> -- John
> jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
> 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
> Dearborn iron rules!!!!
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: "John Webster" primeline.net>
Subject: Trials and Tribulations
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 01:32:14 -0500

Hi Folks,
I normally sit back and enjoy the different threads and gather useful
information from you all. If you'll pardon my rambling I thought I would
give a quick list of my trucks modifications, also what worked and what I
regretted.
I run a '77 F150 4X4 with a slab side long box and 460/C6 through 4:11
gears turning 33X12.5's. I'm finished most of the mechanical and the body is
screaming for some attention. Below is a summary:

- Energy Suspension Bushings - Best money ever spent. The truck drove like
new when installed (the rubber "C" bushings
were toast).
- Front Coils - You never realize how bad the old ones are until you drive
it the first time with the new ones. A cheap
improvement.
- Halogen Headlights - Hey! I can see the road! Off course the 55/100w bulbs
help but also thanks to FTE for the wiring
diagram for the "brighter whites". Also I have them on my aux. battery,
helps when you come out and
say "Oh $#*%! I left the lights on.
- Dual Batteries - Tried many different ways (the cash register should be
playing) but I settled on and am happy with both
mounted in the bed within Marine Battery boxes
just foreward of the wheel wells. They are well anchored
and move the weight back. Also Allowed me to
move all the electric's to the firewall. This was mostly for
esthetics but also allows for a comfortable seat
on the fender when tinkering.
- Pre-luber - This was the second best money spent. I found a used 12V
sealed hydraulic pump and mounted it on the frame.
Suction comes from the oil pan (with a "tee" so I can
drain it) then discharges at the back of the block where
the oil pressure sender is. A quick run up before
starting and no more dry heaves.
- Monster Tach - Ok so the testosterone overrode common sense, but I still
LOVE IT!
- POR-15 - Being north of the border and driving year round I think I'm just
going to get the truck dipped in this stuff.
Pricey but it works.
- Big Fuel pump - My current 460 is low compression (8.5:1) stock heads with
mild port, Edelbrock Performer intake and
carb with stock manifolds. I would run out of
steam in drive before 4500rpm. Installed an Edlebrock street
comp. fuel pump and now the truck pulls to
5500rpm in drive (My testicles and mud tires prevented
pushing further).
- CD Ignition - They all seem good, I run the Holley with Taylor 409 wires
and the response and bottom end clean up was
worth every penny.
There's more but I don't want to get yelled out for too long a post, my
humble advice after many hours and dollars later? Try to plan what you want
from the truck before you start. Remember it will always cost more then you
budget. If you don't get something to fit don't worry, your not the first
(you don't want to know how many headers I've tried with no luck). Enjoy the
work and never be afraid to ask advice or help, there are no stupid
questions. Thank you, I'll try to get off my pedestal now without falling.
John.


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Rebuild Question
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 04:30:17 -0800

> I am rebuilding a 352 (my first rebuild) the question is: Is
> there any
> chemical that will clean the water passages in the block, I
> have been using
> hotwater and soap but it isn't removing it too good.
>
>
>
> Chris
> '67 F100

I know you probably want to save money by doing it yourself but try checking
with your local machine shop on the cost for "hot tanking" the block.
Basically they will acid dip the motor which will clean it up like new.
Drawback, it will ruin the cam bearing so they will need to be removed
before the process and probably replaced. If you were planning on replacing
them anyway no problem.

Tom H

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 16:23:38 -0600
Subject: Re: trimming posts
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

>> > Gotta agree here, also try to put a line (hit enter) between your replies
>> > and the quoted text. Please?
>>
>>
>> I dont understand this. You didn't put a line between your reply and the
>> quoted text. Or do you mean a line space?
>
> Most e-mail packages use standard quoting symbols. Mine uses the ">" in
> front of each line of text to denote quoted text. There's no need to
> re-invent the wheel here.
>
> Stock Man
> 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
> 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>

So what is this, "E-mail 101"? I thought this was a 61-79 Ford Truck group.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Tapping/knocking
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 08:46:00 -0500

Kim writes: >> Anyway, replaced the starter, and the truck
started up wonderfully, but also entertained us with a loud, consistant
metal-to-metal tapping. Shut her down, checked oil pressure and level (on
target), pulled the valve covers and ran her again. Plenty of oil going
through and couldn't see anything obviously wrong, so I shut her down
again.<<

If it wasn't knocking/tapping when you shut it down when you parked it,
then it is most likely collapsed lifters, and there is usually always more
than one that is compressed when the engine is shut down, so it could
easily be more than one and could be on both sides, as well as front and
rear. Let it run for a few minutes idle and see if the noise subsides or
completely goes away. Most likely it is lifters and they will pump back up
after a bit. If this doesn't solve your problem, come back to the list for
more attempts to solve.

Good luck.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 08:38:23 -0600
Subject: Re: 390 ticking
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> What is the easiest way to check to see If I have a sticking lifter?
>
> schu
>
> John LaGrone wrote:
>>
>> Schu,
>>
>> If the ticking is in the valve train, about the only thing left is a worn
>> rocker arm or a sticky lifter.
>>

Schu,

I don't know that there is an easy way. Pull the rocker covers. It would
probably be a good idea to warm the engine up some first. On the one hand if
you rev the engine while the covers are off you will spray oil all over the
place. OTOH pulling valve covers can be tricky and a hot manifold burns skin
quickly. Once you have the engine running at idle, observe the valve train.
A stuck lifter will not open the valve and the rocker will not travel the
full distance like the others. You will also be able to track the clunk
easier. If you can isolate the bank where the noise is coming from you can
only pull one rocker cover. Since the lifters are in the middle you usually
can't tell the bank until you pull one side and look. While the engine is
running at idle, use a very large very flat flat tipped screw driver to
press down against the pushrod end of the rocker arm. If the lifter is good,
you will not be able to hold it. If the lifter is weak it will collapse when
you push on it. This procedure is very easy to do on stud mounted rocker
arms. You may have to devise something to work with the shaft mount rockers.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Power Steering pump color
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 09:22:32 -0600

> What color is the Power Steering pump supposed to be for my '75 F100. I
> was cleaning it up today and under the grease discovered that it is a
> turquoise metallic. Can you get this color paint?

I think I remember a detailing article on the Boss 302's and it was
described as "blue adonized" ... not sure if you can get paint that looks
like that or not ..I masked mine off carefully and just used Ford Blue
engine paint on the back half and satin/flat black on the front (well not
half, but the canister is blue and the pulley/pump area is black ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 09:28:32 -0600
From: Jon Beller ericsson.com>
Subject: Re: First Timer --- Holley 4bbl

Schu,

I finally got some time to spend on the truck this weekend and found the
part number on the horn:

D5TE-9510-EA
LIST-6947
1087

Thanks-
Jon


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 09:40:59 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp angelo.edu>
Subject: Re: Hot Tanking

At 09:17 PM 2/27/00 -0600, you wrote:
>Folks,
>Are all the shops in your area converting to baking blocks instead of hot
>tanking them? That's become the norm here and I was just wondering if
>it's a national thing due to EPA reg's or whatever.
>Brett
>Super75cab
>>Have you had the block hot tanked? If not I would HIGHLY recommend it.
>>About a $40 charge at your local machine shop.
>>Erik Marquez
>
>
>

Baking is new to me. How does it work. I'm in west texas and haven't come
across this term.

Larry


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 09:45:09 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp angelo.edu>
Subject: Re: Power Steering pump color


>Folks,
>What color is the Power Steering pump supposed to be for my '75 F100. I
>was cleaning it up today and under the grease discovered that it is a
>turquoise metallic. Can you get this color paint? It's the standard old
>Ford round pump.
>Brett
>Super75cab
>________________________________________________________________

A friend got the color from a local auto paint store. It was in a spray can.
He even got it with flakes. Looks really sharp. Like the old candy apple
red paint job.

Larry



------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Steering stabilizer for E150?
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 09:12:31 -0800

I just put a set of 235/75/15 LT tires (on stock width rims) on it. Took
out the seats, put down tarps and hauled a cord of firewood in her
yesterday. Did just fine, didn't seem to wander all that badly (I asked
SWMBO about it and she said it did seem better since the new tires), but I
will probably go ahead and add the stabilizer.
Thanks!

-----Original Message-----
From: Tim and Pam Allgire [mailto:tim-pamwilliams-net.com]
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 8:48 PM
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Steering stabilizer for E150?


You didn't mention how wide your tires are on your truck.The wider the tires
the worse it will get about following grooves in the road.The stabilizer
should help a little.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Hot tanks
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 12:25:34 -0500

I believe that is actually caustic soda which will just "pickle" iron or
iron alloys but reacts very strongly with any non ferous white metals such
as magnesium and aluminum which is one of the main components of the bearing
material as I recall :-) This material is kept at such a high PH that it
will burn your skin easily and it is also kept hot (not sure of the actual
temp) but hot enough to burn you. It primarily degreases and strips the
paint from the engine and heads but has little effect on rubber or heavy
metal or rust so if there is a rubber seal from a quick fix sough plug in
there it will still have to be dug out the hard way as far as I know.

Acid will not only attack the iron but it won't touch the grease. Grease
doesn't disolve in an acid bath, it must have a PH above 7 to work on grease
:-) I don't recall the number now but hot tanks for engines are kept well
above 9 ph. Aluminum transmission parts use a differnt material, more like
carb cleaner but don't know if it's acid or base. I suspect it is neutral
PH. I've seen engines dipped in something after degreasing to make them
bright which may be acid but don't know anything about that process.

Definitely worth the expense to have it done in either case though.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>with your local machine shop on the cost for "hot tanking" the block.
>Basically they will acid dip the motor which will clean it up like new.
>Drawback, it will ruin the cam bearing so they will need to be removed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 09:42:13 -0800
From: "Andrew Doering" pgn.com>
Subject: Re: Drop spindels

To do a disk brake conversion on a 65 you're supposed to use 73-79 spindles. I was thinking I could get drop spindles for a 73-79 and put 'em on my '65 when I do the drum to disc conversion. What do you think?




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 10:06:48 -0800
From: John Kahrs pixar.com>
Subject: timing trouble on a 360/390



I replaced the cap and rotor on my '76 F100 last night, but it sputtered and popped, I checked the plug wires and firing order according to the Haynes book.
Looks good. I thought the rotor shaft must be off a tooth, and sure enough it was. I went through the usual cyl no. 1 at TDC, balancer at 0 degrees,
realigned the rotor and re-seated the distributor. Now everthing is back in line like it should be, right? No action. Nothing at all. Checked the spark:
good spark.

Exasperated, I drew out the distributor and started turning the rotor CCW back a tooth, then another tooth and presto! it starts running, and smoothly too.
But when I point the timing light at the balancer, there are no numbers in sight.

As it it, I can only set it by ear, which I don't think is a good long term solution, and the whole thing just baffles me.

Could the balancer be misaligned? Anyone have any theories?

jk

--
John Kahrs

kahrspixar.com
510.620.3486




------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 09:34:20 -0900
From: Matthew Schumacher 7x.com>
Subject: Re: timing trouble on a 360/390

John,

Did you make sure that the rotor was keyed correctly inside the
distributor?

schu

John Kahrs wrote:
>
> I replaced the cap and rotor on my '76 F100 last night, but it sputtered and popped, I checked the plug wires and firing order according to the Haynes book.
> Looks good. I thought the rotor shaft must be off a tooth, and sure enough it was. I went through the usual cyl no. 1 at TDC, balancer at 0 degrees,
> realigned the rotor and re-seated the distributor. Now everthing is back in line like it should be, right? No action. Nothing at all. Checked the spark:
> good spark.
>
> Exasperated, I drew out the distributor and started turning the rotor CCW back a tooth, then another tooth and presto! it starts running, and smoothly too.
> But when I point the timing light at the balancer, there are no numbers in sight.
>
> As it it, I can only set it by ear, which I don't think is a good long term solution, and the whole thing just baffles me.
>
> Could the balancer be misaligned? Anyone have any theories?
>
> jk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 10:34:27 -0800
From: "Andrew Doering" pgn.com>
Subject: Re: timing trouble on a 360/390

I used to have an old chevy that had similar timing problems. It turned out that the balancer had spun. You might want to consider putting on a new damper or remounting the one you have.

>>> John Kahrs pixar.com> 02/28 10:06 AM >>>


I replaced the cap and rotor on my '76 F100 last night, but it sputtered and popped, I checked the plug wires and firing order according to the Haynes book.
Looks good. I thought the rotor shaft must be off a tooth, and sure enough it was. I went through the usual cyl no. 1 at TDC, balancer at 0 degrees,
realigned the rotor and re-seated the distributor. Now everthing is back in line like it should be, right? No action. Nothing at all. Checked the spark:
good spark.

Exasperated, I drew out the distributor and started turning the rotor CCW back a tooth, then another tooth and presto! it starts running, and smoothly too.
But when I point the timing light at the balancer, there are no numbers in sight.

As it it, I can only set it by ear, which I don't think is a good long term solution, and the whole thing just baffles me.

Could the balancer be misaligned? Anyone have any theories?

jk

--
John Kahrs

kahrspixar.com
510.620.3486



==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
message.



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: timing trouble on a 360/390
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 13:44:53 -0500

Factory balancers are two piece affairs with a rubber matt sandwiched beween
the core and outer ring. The rubber rots out and the ring starts walking.

Timing by ear means taking it down the road until it begins to spark knock
and then back it off a couple of degrees, not standing in the drive way
listening to the idle......whether the vac is connected or not, timing at
idle by ear won't likely get it where you want it, it will get you way too
advanced for "under load" operation most likely. If you must have a start
point though, connect the vac to manifold vacuum to set the timing and you
should be relatively close, perhaps retard it a tad from it's best position
and then road test it. If it knocks, back it off, if not advance it a tad
each time you test.

Best test conditions are in high gear at about 25 mph and heavy application
of throttle. Most carbed engines will knock a little bit when properly
tuned under those conditions but quickly get out of it as speed picks up.
If it knocks heavily there then you need to back it off untill it's just a
little buzz, not serious knocking. When I say heavy application I mean
about 1/2 - 3/4 throttle or so, not WOT.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>As it it, I can only set it by ear, which I don't think is a
>good long term solution, and the whole thing just baffles me.
>
>Could the balancer be misaligned? Anyone have any theories?

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: timing trouble on a 360/390
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 13:20:35 -0600

> Could the balancer be misaligned? Anyone have any theories?
>

Could be, but I can't believe no one else has suggested a worn/jumped timing
chain ... I've heard of quite a few FE's with these that still run quite
well, but timing them of course is a pain ... I'd check that second.

The first thing I would check would be the points ... you replaced cap and
rotor, but what about the points ? There are a few years of elec. ignition
on these FE's, but not too many ... if you've got one of those then you're
lucky ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: borraniatt.net
Subject: 460 Oil Pan removal
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:25:29 +0000

Hey all,
I recently overtightened the oil pan gaskets on the 460
in my '75 F250. So, I have to remove the pan. I worked
on it for many hours yesterday w/o success. I've
disconnected the motor from its mounts, and have wedges
between the block and the mounts, but the pan is still
hitting the oil pickup, I guess. I'm going to get an
engine puller so I can raise the motor a few more extra
inches. Has anyone had to deal with this greasy, back-
aching mess before? Any tricks (besides not over-
torquing the pan bolts again)?

Thanks,

Steve S.
Seattle, WA

------------------------------

From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Oil Pan removal
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 13:25:25 PST

Just went throught this on both my '93 F150 and my 72 F100, I jacked the
motor up just like you have and still wouldn't clear the pump, so what I did
was just reach in and remove the oil pump and let it fall into the pan,
worked like a charm, on reinstallation I layed the oil pump in the pan and
when I had the pan on I just lifted it back up and tightened the bolts, you
might want to replace the pump while you have the devil apart it would be a
whole lot easier than going throught hell again.


Chris
67 F100 352
72 F100 390


>From: borraniatt.net
>Reply-To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] 460 Oil Pan removal
>Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 20:25:29 +0000
>
>Hey all,
>I recently overtightened the oil pan gaskets on the 460
>in my '75 F250. So, I have to remove the pan. I worked
>on it for many hours yesterday w/o success. I've
>disconnected the motor from its mounts, and have wedges
>between the block and the mounts, but the pan is still
>hitting the oil pickup, I guess. I'm going to get an
>engine puller so I can raise the motor a few more extra
>inches. Has anyone had to deal with this greasy, back-
>aching mess before? Any tricks (besides not over-
>torquing the pan bolts again)?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Steve S.
>Seattle, WA
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

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