Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages
contained in these archives without consent from the respective
author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on
any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by
individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors.

Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:23:45 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:23:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #16
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Thu, 24 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 016

In This Issue:
Re: Cab mounts
Re: car prices
Re: 292 not getting fire
Brakes pulling?
Re: F-E with a Q-jet?
Re: Gun, 51, saves man, 83
Re: Wages
Re: CAR PRICES
Oil filters....
Re: ADMIN: Unavailable, death in the family
Re: Cab mounts
Re: Oil filters....
Re: Cab mounts
Re: Bronco body on a Scout frame?
Re: car prices
292 not getting fire
Re: car prices
Re: car prices
Re: car prices
pulling to the right
352 timing chain
Re: pulling to the right
Re: car prices
Re: car prices
Re: Bronco body on a Scout frame?
Re: Oil filters....
Re: Oil filters....
Re: fuel prices
Re: Oil filters....
Re: fuel prices
Pigeon forge events
Re: car prices
Re: Cab mounts
Re: Oil filters....
Re: Cab mounts
Re: Pulling to the right
Re: Oil filters....

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 02:17:59 -0800
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Re: Cab mounts

I too have had no luck finding a good after market mount /floor pan and had
no luck at the wreckers. my truck came with one of those cheap tin
replacements
already fully crushed by the weight of the cab.
The seam at the firewall was starting to let go so i ground the lip off
welded the seam shut and made an "L" shaped mount that i bolted on the
firewall near the parking brake mounting bolts. I connected the short leg of
the "L" to the frame. The mount was made from 1/4" thick plate steel 5"s
wide.
I later reinforced the right angle and added braces from my mount to the
floor pan
(that wasn't to badly rotted but i reinforced with 4 layers of 1.5 oz
fiberglass cloth).
I undercoated the entire floor, covered the whole mess up with the cheap
after market cab mount and covered both mounts from the top of the inner
fender to the middle of the floor (over the mount & frame mount) with 1/4
inch neoprene rubber till i can find a set of factory plastic inner fenders.

It didn't take long and i had the engine out and was waiting for rebuild
parts. the only down side i have is i did not remove the rotted bit of old
cab mount from the floor and every so often it makes a really odd creak that
scares my friends.

Jeff Simmons wrote:

> Hi Ford Fans,
> I was just wondering what other 65' to 79' owners do to repair those darn
> cab mounts.
> On my 65' and 68' I just welded pieces in to the height right. Looked
> bad.
> On my 71' I went to the salvage yard and cut out a pair that wasn't in to
> bad of shape.
> I then cut what rust there was out, and welded new metal in its place.
> now you have to look real close to see that there not the originals. Has
> anyone else done
> it this way or what other ways are there. I don't like those cheap
> looking after market ones.
> You never know I might have to make a career repairing cab mounts.
> Jeff in KC
>
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 03:24:05 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: car prices



>
> I'd be interested in knowing what the average car mechanic or car
> factory worker made in '65, compared to now. I have the idea that with
> all the technological advances, and the exporting of jobs overseas, the
> working person is now no better off as to wages, and is paying the same
> or higher for most of the basic necessities.

I can help you out there. In NJ a decent factory job paid 2.50 with the
high end (Ford assembly line) at about 3.20. That was the year I entered
the work force. My first factory job was a foam rubber plant for 2.56 on
the 3rd shift.
The biggest difference these days is taxes. Back then income tax was
maybe 5%, there was no state income tax, no sales tax. People scream
over atm charges yet don't say a word about the 40% of their pay that
goes to taxes.
>

------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: 292 not getting fire
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 05:28:40 -0500

> I have the 1964 Ford F-100 with the 292 V8 in it. I replaced the plugs,
> wires, distributor cap/rotor, and yet I still do not get any fire.

possibly a bad coil, or bad wires/connection leading to the coil



------------------------------

From: pdesanto Cinergy.com
Subject: Brakes pulling?
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 05:27:56 -0500

>> What's going on here? This morning whenever I'd hit the brakes, the
> truck would pull very strongly to the left. It does this sometimes,
> either to the left or the right, depending on its mood.
========================================
I missed the beginning of this one, but if it's discs look for a sticky
caliper. If it's drums; like Wish said, it could be a balky wheel cyl too.
Something else that'll cause this, (but probably not your problem) is a
collapsed rubber brake hose. Sometimes even when they look good on the
outside, the inside can deteriorate and collapse. It'll act just like a
check valve. Brakes go on, but won't come off, or at least not quickly like
they should. I just did a brake job on an "unmentionable", and it had this
problem. Hadn't seen it in a while. Good luck, Phil


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: F-E with a Q-jet?
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 06:22:58 -0500

Be carefull here.....ford has it's own proprietary spread bore configuration
which is not compatible with the Rochester/thermoquad/Holley 4165/75 group
of spread bores. Ford did use quadrajets on at least one application in the
late 60's but I don't remember if it was 385 or FE series.

Many 429's, 460's and 351C's came with the ford motor craft version, stock
and the manifold looks like the rochester type but is not the same bolt
pattern or configuration.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Danny, I've never seen an FE with a stock Q-jet intake but a lot of
>T-birds with 429's got them in the early 70's, I just can't
>remember the
>exact years now. Maybe big Fords and Lincoln's too.....just
>can't remember.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Gun, 51, saves man, 83
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 06:26:55 -0500

My brother, who is a sign painter, uses ATF for his paint brushes because it
is compatible with the oil paints he uses and keeps them soft and ready to
use with no special treatment except to dip them and wipe off the excess.
He buys expensive brushes and uses them for years :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> sure. His maintenance of the gun was sporadic. He used
transmission
> fluid instead of gun oil as a lubricant.

I wonder what type of transmission fluid he used? Or how about filling
your transmission with gun oil?

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Wages
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 06:32:31 -0500

I can tell you what I made at a garage as a gas pump jockey, $1.00/hr and at
ford, $2.78/hr and in the service, $83/mo.....:-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>> I'd be interested in knowing what the average car mechanic or car
>> factory worker made in '65, compared to now. I have the idea

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 07:13:33 -0500
From: Steve Schaefer PLASTEKGROUP.COM>
Subject: Re: CAR PRICES

> I n 1939 a brand new 1939 ford convertable cost $700.

And to think, I payed double for that for a rusted out pile of &^%*. Oh well, time to start making the lemonade :>)

Steve S.
77 F-250 Supercab
76 F-350 Crewcab

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/shop/8663/



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Oil filters....
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 07:18:54 -0500

An interesting thing has poped up a few times with this 335 series engine
and I can think of several things which might cause it but thought I'd toss
it out for discussion. Twice now I have pulled the oil filter off the
bronco and found it empty. I always prefill my filters so it should have at
least been half full. Since it's at about a 15 or 20 degree angle, not
straight out from the block it seems like some oil would have stayed in
there in any case simply due to gravity. The first time I simply put a new
one on and hoped for the best since I did have good oil pressure and it came
off full as I normally would expect as did several others. Now it's
happened again.

I put my remote start switch on, lifted it up with filter off and cranked
the engine and oil came out the side hole in the adapter which is where I
would expect it?? I cranked quite a while before it did come out though but
once it started it really came out.....Put the filter on just snug enough to
seal and cranked it for maybe a minute and when I loosened it there was lots
of oil so just put it back on tight and let it go.

Only thing that comes to me is the drain back valve in the filter didn't
work (I only buy Motorcraft filters). Any other ideas?

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--


------------------------------

From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Unavailable, death in the family
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 07:32:59 -0600

Ken,
Our prayers are with you, and your family in this time of need.
May the Lord comfort your family, in this time of greif.

God Bless,
Paul Rozell


------------------------------

From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: Cab mounts
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 07:35:59 -0600

Dennis Carpenter, makes cab mounts that are identical to the mounts allready
on the truck.
Try www.dennis-carpenter.com they have the mounts on the web site.

Paul
65 F100 460 C6


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil filters....
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 08:25:40 -0600

> Twice now I have pulled the oil filter off the
> bronco and found it empty.

> I cranked quite a while before it did come out
> though but
> once it started it really came out.....Put the filter on just
> snug enough to
> seal and cranked it for maybe a minute and when I loosened it
> there was lots
> of oil so just put it back on tight and let it go.
>

Was the old filter dirty ? IE did it have any crud in it ? since your
filter sits at an angle (as does mine, I've never prefilled it and never had
an empty one come off) I have trouble believing it even had oil in it ...I
suppose there could be some siphoning, but I wouldn't think it would siphon
out that much of it ...

I wonder if you blew something loose when you started it without the filter
on... I can't think of a reason you wouldn't have had oil spraying out right
away unless it was blocked for some reason ... it only takes a second for
the oil pressure to build up even with the empty filter on, so cranking it
shouldn't have taken very long to get oil out ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Cab mounts
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 08:27:28 -0600

> I was just wondering what other 65' to 79' owners do to repair those darn
> cab mounts.
>

I bought some aftermarket ones from the local parts store (Jocko's around
here). It was a pretty standard body catalog like the other stores carry,
so I don't think they were anything special, but they were pretty heavy duty
and the body shop didn't think twice about putting them on for me (they were
honest and told me what they thought when asked) ... I can get the name of
the company I ordered from if you are interested ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Bronco body on a Scout frame?
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 08:30:04 -0600

> I just heard of a IHC Scout for sale near me w/ a 302 in it and a
> bad body. I was wondering if you could stick an early bronc body
> on that frame, and I could just junk the body.

if its like any other Scout II, the body is already junk :) We had a couple
of them, but with the 345 IH motor in it. Not lightning quick (I was what
10 at the time?) but it was the first vehicle I ever actually drove with the
motor running and Dad not working the pedals ...

Anyway the Scout's have a longer chassis than the early Bronc's, so I don't
think this would work very well ... if it were me, and the body was in
decent shape, I'd just stick with it as it was ... the 302 has lots of parts
available for it, so as long as a good job was done swapping it in there,
then you should have lots of hours of enjoyment, provided they tweaked that
302 for a bit more than stock power ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:11:04 -0600
Subject: Re: car prices
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> have no problem going out to get a new car????????????

I don't buy new cars/trucks, period. Been there, done that. I look for one
two or three years old that has been well cared for. The first owner takes a
tremendous depreciation hit when he/she signs the transfer papers. I could
buy and maintain a fleet of old Ford trucks for the price of a new Mustang.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:19:26 -0600
From: Al Evitts brightok.net>
Subject: 292 not getting fire

Jim Moore: I spent 3 days lokking for the same thing in a 56 Ford.
Found thenwire inside the distributor was rotten and shorting out
against the dist body.

Al

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: car prices
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:32:27 -0600

> I could
> buy and maintain a fleet of old Ford trucks for the price of a
> new Mustang.
>

Depends on your options, and its just not as much fun :)

A guy I work with just picked up his new 2000 Mustang on Monday ... lowest
mileage car I've ever driven (had 36miles on it when I got in) ... he added
this to his Bronco II ... the Mustang has pics up at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~rod/mustang.html

He got it for right around 17K ... sure its "just" a V6 .. but with a 5spd
and 190 rated hp stock, its quite a bargain compared with the other vehicles
out there today :)


FWIW Mom's stang she bought new in 69 is a base sportsroof sporting the
optional 351 2V, AM radio, and full wheel covers. She paid about 2300 for
it. And the black jade jewel is still sitting in the garage at home after
74,xxx miles and the valve covers have never been off the motor ... :)

This spring we hope to get the green stangs together for a few pics ...
along with mine and my girlfriend's ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: car prices
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:43:38 -0600

I agree with John, new car prices are un-beleivable. Besides driving an
older truck is alot more fun and has the ability to look alot better than
the cookie cutter cars and trucks that everyone else is driving. Besides
when you blow away a new car or truck in an old classic it turns some heads.

Paul
65 F100 460 C6

> > have no problem going out to get a new car????????????
>
> I don't buy new cars/trucks, period. Been there, done that. I look for one
> two or three years old that has been well cared for. The first owner takes
a
> tremendous depreciation hit when he/she signs the transfer papers. I could
> buy and maintain a fleet of old Ford trucks for the price of a new
Mustang.
>
> -- John
> jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
> 1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)



------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: car prices
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:33:34 -0500

Yeah, find one with a good body and you can keep it alive and well forever
:-) I generally try to get low mileage in the mix too but sometimes the
condition just draws you to it like the van I just bought, clean as a
whistle as they say, no rust and engine still runs very well. I will never
buy another new vehicle of any kind, it's just not a good investment for the
money spent. The new smell only lasts so long and you can actually
duplicate that with certain cleaners on the market now :-) One thing I do
look for now is a "non-smoker" vehicle. They are becoming more common now
that people are getting wiser and more health conscious :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>> have no problem going out to get a new car????????????
>
>I don't buy new cars/trucks, period. Been there, done that. I

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:27:03 -0600
Subject: pulling to the right
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

>I have never had a vehicle with self adjusting rear brakes that did not need
>an occasional tweak by hand with the old brake spoon to keep them really
>balanced for such conditions as icy surfaces etc.. (yes I do remember when
>they didn't have adjusters on them :-))

I remember the first time I saw the brake adjusting tool. "Dad, what's this
funny looking screw driver for?" I have seen a few that you couldn't adjust
by hand with the spoon. They didn't have a slot in the backing plate. You
set them right when you assembled and then trusted the self adjusters. Seems
like the Vega used some sort of cheep (surprise) slip mechanism as an
adjuster instead of the star screw.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:44:16 -0600
Subject: 352 timing chain
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

>The cam can not be 180 out since the cam turns at 1/2 crank speed but the
>crank can be since this would put it at 90 degrees to the cam instead of
>180, make sense?

Except this is all moot. If you get the cam teeth more than one or two off,
you will immediately destroy the valve train or a piston when you try to
start it. I have seen people put the cam in rotated 180 degrees from what it
should be. Not all timing marks are the same on all timing sets. The most
common problem is getting the ignition timing off by 180 degrees. A lot of
engines will sputter and backfire under this condition depending on the
firing order, but no valve train damage is done because the valves are
opening and closing when they are supposed to.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: pulling to the right
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:54:35 -0500

I believe it was the Festiva that had one of those wierd deals too. Pretty
tricky to get it set up right til I figured out what was going on....Had to
back it all the way out, install the parts then stick a screw driver in
there an "pop" it into place as I recall.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>funny looking screw driver for?" I have seen a few that you
>couldn't adjust
>by hand with the spoon. They didn't have a slot in the backing
>plate. You
>set them right when you assembled and then trusted the self
>adjusters.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:00:11 -0600
Subject: Re: car prices
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> ... lowest
> mileage car I've ever driven (had 36miles on it when I got in) ...

Bill,

First, to each is own depending on circumstances. I work with a bunch of
people who don't have a clue about anything relating to a car except to make
the payments and drive the snot out of it until it quits, then have it
worked on, preferably under warranty. Their cars sit in the weather and
rarely get washed. let alone maintained. These people need new cars and keep
Ford and the rest of the industry in business. As list members we are less
likely to fall in this group or we wouldn't be here. That doesn't mean that
list members don't enjoy new cars.

Second, the newest car I ever drove had 3.2 miles showing on it and at the
time it was a thrill, no doubt. I could also look forward to knowing that no
one else had abused it, I got to break it in, etc. I have bought many (12 or
15) with under 10 miles showing. I guess I got old. Right now I get more
satisfaction from my truck that I made into what it is and as I approach
retirement each dollar I save is more and more important to my wife and I.

Third, in 1985 I had a new Cadillac and a 1969 Cadillac convertible. People
were by far more interested in the 69 than the new one and I enjoyed it much
more. SWMBO OTOH......

(big shoulder shrug) I never meant to imply that no one should buy a new
car, it's just not for me any more. SWMBO OTOH......

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:04:27 -0600
Subject: Re: car prices
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> Besides driving an
> older truck is alot more fun and has the ability to look alot better than
> the cookie cutter cars and trucks that everyone else is driving. Besides
> when you blow away a new car or truck in an old classic it turns some heads.

Good points, Paul. You can also look at what the rich and famous are
driving. A lot of them are car collectors and many have a favorite model
that they have acquired and paid big bucks to restore for a daily driver, or
for them what they call a daily driver. I haven't watched Nash Bridges for a
while, but a lot of that show's popularity was the 'Cuda.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 08:26:50 -0800
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Bronco body on a Scout frame?

The wheelbases are different between the Scout and early Bronco's.
Jason

Robert Werner wrote:

> I just heard of a IHC Scout for sale near me w/ a 302 in it and a bad body. I was wondering if you could stick an early bronc body on that frame, and I could just junk the body. I'd ruther keep it all the same(all ford or all IHC), but since I'm just a mere high school student with limited money and time ( the dunes open april 1), I'll have to take what I can get. Thanks, Robert
>
> P.S. I'm thinkin maybe a glass body would be good, anybody got an info on them?
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.




------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Oil filters....
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 11:24:32 -0500

It appeared to be more or less completely dry inside and clean as well,
almost like no oil ever got in there but since I prefill them it started
life with oil in it :-) (there was a tiny bit in the bottom, just enough to
say it was there) It did appear to have had dirty oil in it so there was
flow at some point but there was no debris or scum or coating of any kind.

Since the oil is pumped "up" and not "drawn" up the filter would have to be
the first place the oil goes and would then have to be completely filled
before any oil could get to the rest of the engine so the only thing I can
see is that the drain back valve stayed open but it also seems likely that
the oil pump must have cavitated at some point just before turning it off.
It sat over night on the lift and I drained it cold which I never do so
there was pleny of opportunity for it to drain back as much as possible but
with the angle it is on, I still expected to see more oil in there than it
had in any case. The fact that is has good oil pressure indicates that, at
some point, the filter had to be filled since it is in series with the rest
of the enigne. The last time I found an empty filter may have been one of
the very few occasions that I changed the oil cold too, not sure so can't
make a scientific evaluation :-) Maybe Motorcraft filters drain back valves
don't work?

When I get a chance I will fill it with old oil to the brim, tip it and see
what leaks.....then I'll know at least one thing :-) I've never subscribed
to the theory that 1/4 turn after gasket contact is sufficient to hold them
in place so I always tighten them by hand, pretty tight but don't every use
a wrench to tighen them. I wonder if it's possible to get them tight enough
to distort the valve seat in the filter???

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>an empty one come off) I have trouble believing it even had
>oil in it ...I
>suppose there could be some siphoning, but I wouldn't think it
>would siphon
>out that much of it ...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:37:04 -0600
Subject: Re: Oil filters....
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

> I've never subscribed
> to the theory that 1/4 turn after gasket contact is sufficient to hold them
> in place so I always tighten them by hand, pretty tight but don't every use
> a wrench to tighen them. I wonder if it's possible to get them tight enough
> to distort the valve seat in the filter???

Now that is a good question as I run only Motorcraft filters and tighten
mine just like you do. The oil filter on my 351m mounts horizontally and it
has very little oil in it when I change it. I always attributed it to the
angle of the dangle. Now I wonder.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 08:37:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: fuel prices

Don,
There are some Multi-spark CD ignitions that claim to
prevent pinging. I don't quite understand how a
mulitple spark can do this, but they claim it is due
to more complete combustion of fuel. One of these is
Jacobs Electronics. Summit sells this for $359.99 US.
Pretty expensive in my opinion. An electronic dist.
may help by improving spark timing accuracy. A Mallory
Unilite goes for $209.95 US. Now you have to figure
out how long it will take to save almost $600.00 by
buying regular gas. There are cheaper ways to do this,
however. A pertronix conversion goes for $71.69. A
MSD6A goes for $131.95.

I am running a Holley Street Annihilator CD unit with
a Mallory Unilte dist. and Mallory Promaster coil. My
400 has 10.2:1 CR and has no problems with pinging,
but I use 92 Octane gas or higher exclusively.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V


>From: "Don Jones" hotmail.com>
>Subject: fuel prices
>Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 06:56:18 PST

>The Price of premiun unleaded has just hit 82 a
litre >here (about $3.00 US gallon). Regular is 72
a >litre.
>My truck will run on regular, but its not really
happy >with it. It pings under moderate
accelleration.
>Any ideas on tuning for lower quality gas, besides
>retarding the timing or lowering the compression?
>Will an electronic igniton make much difference?
>Colder heat range spark plugs was one suggestion I
>got. I have a 1970 f-250 4x4 with a 360 4 speed
>78,000 miles (at 10 mpg thats 7,800 gallons of gas in
>the last 30 years!!)

>Don Jones
>1970 f-250 4x4


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Oil filters....
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:44:49 -0600

> > I've never subscribed
> > to the theory that 1/4 turn after gasket contact is sufficient
> to hold them
> > in place so I always tighten them by hand, pretty tight but
> don't every use
> > a wrench to tighen them. I wonder if it's possible to get them
> tight enough
> > to distort the valve seat in the filter???
>
> Now that is a good question as I run only Motorcraft filters and tighten
> mine just like you do.

Yup, I mount mine this same way (tighten by hand, though I always thought it
was 3/4 of a turn that the box said, I can usually get just shy of that by
hand and still get it off by hand or with a light application of the wrench)
...

Anyway my filters are always full ... even the horizontal one has quite a
bit in it when I pull it off (weird modulars anyway, its not even an FL1A)
...

I am pretty sure there are 2 valves involved here, one is the drainback that
prevents old dirty oil from going back to the oil pan ... the other is the
bypass that goes around the oil filter if the filter should be clogged ...
obviously its better to have dirty oil than none at all ... I would start to
suspect a faulty bypass valve ... I can't remember if its in the filter
itself or somewhere in the adapter or how that works ...

from http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilters.html :

"A good filter has ... an anti-drainback valve that actually works without
creating too much backpressure, a pressure relief valve that doesn't leak
..."

So sounds like its part of the filter itself ... and could be a faulty
filter issue ... though Motorcraft faired well in his study ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: fuel prices
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 11:56:09 -0500

A fuel oil furnace with a "Gunn" presure fed burner has spark the whole time
it runs to ensure full ignition even in the event of a flame out. In a
typical combustion chamber the mixture does not lay quietly in one place but
swirls around as it burns so some unburned fuel undoubtedly gets behind the
flame front and is lit by the continuous spark. Dura spark came out with
long spark duration which helped lean burn engines to get the job done
better and dual point dizzys were essentialy designed to do the same thing,
extend the duration of the spark for cleaner ignition (in some cases at
least :-)) I can only imagine that the multi-spark is simply a different
way of saying "long duration spark" and it accomplishes much the same thing,
ensures complete burning of the charge within the time allotted to generate
force on the piston. The larger the initial flame front the less likely
there will be any fuel to trap in the quench zone so less spark knock??

It's well known that the stock 335 series heads are prone to spark knock for
what ever reason. Longer duration spark may be the cure :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>There are some Multi-spark CD ignitions that claim to
>prevent pinging. I don't quite understand how a
>mulitple spark can do this, but they claim it is due

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Pigeon forge events
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:29:29 -0500

Anyone who plans to be at the F-100 Nationals May 18-21 should subsc*ibe to
the "pfgroup-list" so we can discuss plans. We keep this discussion off the
main truck lists to keep traffic down since it's not directly truck ralated
and many are not interested. We are discussing group discount hotel
arrangements right now and since the traffic on that list is very light I
suspect there are some who are not there who might benefit from the
discussions. We should periodically run a reminder post to all the lists
for this event since there are many new people on the list who have not been
exposed to the existance of this PF list. I don't have all the addresses of
the lists handy so am sending to the two I know. Anyone on more lists can
forward this to the others if you like but be careful we don't clog up the
system in the process :-)

Last year we had nearly 50 people alltogether from our lists and it was a
lot of fun meeting everyone. For those who don't know, the event is held
each year in Pigeon Forge, TN, near Knoxville in May. Last year the weather
was beautiful and the trucks (roughly 800 of them) were awesome :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: car prices
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:35:00 -0800


> NUTCH11 aol.com wrote:
>
>
> > a 1965 mustang was around $2500 for a v-8 model
>
> > interestingly i think is that gasoline was around .32 per
> gallon in 1965
> > (hi-test)
> > today right now hi-test is around $1.60 and that's only in
> the last few months
> > gas has gone up (if you use today's figures) only 5 times
> and cars have gone
> > up 10
> > times ( pick-ups have gone up much more than that). we
> gripe about price of
> > gas
> > and have no problem going out to get a new car????????????
> > housing is more 10 times what it was in the mid 60's.
> minimum wages are up 5
> > times ??????????
>
> These figures are pretty much right, I think.
> In 1965, minimum wage was $1.25.
> Inflation since then is about 1 to 5.22, according to the Labor Dept.
> So the min. wage now should be $6.50, but it's only $5.15(?)
> The 32 cent Gas should be $1.67
> The $2500 Mustang shd be $13,000.
>

> I'd be interested in knowing what the average car mechanic or car
> factory worker made in '65, compared to now. I have the idea that with
> all the technological advances, and the exporting of jobs
> overseas, the
> working person is now no better off as to wages, and is
> paying the same
> or higher for most of the basic necessities.
>

Constant inflation is the price we pay for not having any deflationary
periods since the late 1920s. Personnaly it would be easier for me if the
) !*$&*# gov't let me keep MORE THAN HALF MY #(*)*$# !!! money. (Rant rant
rave puf scream yell pant) argh!! Oh well (normal apathy setting in)
returning you to (resistance is futile) your normally scheduled (you will be
assimilated) programming (big brother is watching you-- while he is stealing
you blind).

Tom H

------------------------------

From: L7514 aol.com
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:53:42 EST
Subject: Re: Cab mounts

I was wondering if you remember what you paid for those cab mounts. Also,
does the place you got them at have bed mounts also? Does anyone recomend
this to be done to a truck you plan to hopefully show someday?
Thanks, Lance

You wrote:
I bought some aftermarket ones from the local parts store (Jocko's around
here). It was a pretty standard body catalog like the other stores carry,
so I don't think they were anything special, but they were pretty heavy duty
and the body shop didn't think twice about putting them on for me (they were
honest and told me what they thought when asked) ... I can get the name of
the company I ordered from if you are interested ...

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: Oil filters....
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 10:05:34 -0800


> I've
> never subscribed
> to the theory that 1/4 turn after gasket contact is
> sufficient to hold them
> in place so I always tighten them by hand, pretty tight but
> don't every use
> a wrench to tighen them.

Do you really mean 1/4 turn? All the filters I've ever used said 3/4 turn
on the side. And tightening by hand that was about all I could do. Course
if my hands wern't covered in oil... ;-)

Tom H

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Cab mounts
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:19:39 -0500

I paid about $32 each for the front cab mounts (part of the cab, not frame)
from JCWittney but there were bolt on reinforcements rather than weld in
replacements so I won't be using them unless the pickup needs some.
(bronco's are in good shape :-)) In any event I will weld them in rather
than just do a patch job so they look similar to stock when I'm done if I
use them.

If you have a mig welder you can make almost any part, even complex parts by
using strips which can be more easily formed and welding them together to
make a duplicate part such as the front cab mount which is actually a 14 ga
or so stamping with a curved shape which would be difficult to duplicate by
hand. This is over laid on the cab floor and firewall and spot welded in
place. To do it correctly you need to cut the spot welds, remove the mount
overlay, repair the floor, rebuild the mount or replace it and tack it back
on. If you just bolt on a cover plate the whole mess will rust out in very
short order regardless of the precautions you may take.

If you have one of those cool body rotisseries we saw at PF last year it
would be a snap to do this kind of work. Since I have lots of axles lying
around now and some really nice spare tires on mag wheels I may just make
one.....:-)



--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--


>-----Original Message-----
>From: L7514 aol.com [mailto:L7514 aol.com]
>Sent: 02/24/2000 12:54 PM
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Cab mounts
>
>
>I was wondering if you remember what you paid for those cab
>mounts. Also,
>does the place you got them at have bed mounts also? Does
>anyone recomend
>this to be done to a truck you plan to hopefully show someday?
>Thanks, Lance
>
>You wrote:
>I bought some aftermarket ones from the local parts store
>(Jocko's around
>here). It was a pretty standard body catalog like the other
>stores carry,
>so I don't think they were anything special, but they were
>pretty heavy duty
>and the body shop didn't think twice about putting them on for
>me (they were
>honest and told me what they thought when asked) ... I can get
>the name of
>the company I ordered from if you are interested ...
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling to the right
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:25:50 -0500

you may need to check out your caliper assemblies on the front to make sure
the pistons are not sticking.Also check the rubber hoses that connect to the
caliper,sometimes they get spongy & when you apply the brakes they will
balloon from the pressure & not give you the coorrect actuation of the
braking system.The balancing you are talking about concerns the adjustment
of the rear brakes.When you do your reverse braking it adjusts both of them
at the same time at an even amount on each side--as long as your rear breaks
are working correctly.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kiernan, Denny wenet.net>
To: FTE <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 1:18 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Pulling to the right


>What's going on here? This morning whenever I'd hit the brakes, the
>truck would pull very strongly to the left. It does this sometimes,
>either to the left or the right, depending on its mood. I parked it
>while I was at work, and after work I start it up expecting to find it
>still doing it, but lo and behold the brakes work fine now. No pulling
>at all to either side.
>How is this possible?
>
>Another question: When you "balance the brakes" by backing up and
>braking a couple of times, what exactly are you doing? Balancing them in
....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.