 |
|
|
|
|
|
Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Fri, 14 Jul 2000 13:52:24 -0400 (EDT) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 13:52:24 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #158 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Thu, 13 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 158 In This Issue: Electric Fuel Pumps air brakes Re: Freon Re: Replacing U-joints Re: Freon Re: Old vs New Trucks Re: ScrewedByTheMAN! 400 Re: 400 Re: Freon Re: Freon Re: Freon Re: Freon Re: Freon Re: modified DOVE-C heads rear gas tank Re: Electric fuel pump Re: Freon Re: 62 Unibody Rare old 4x4 truck Freon Motor mounts Nuts and Bolts Lowering Kits Re: Nuts and Bolts Re: 62 Unibody Courier Re: Nuts and Bolts Re: 62 Unibody School bus Free FE!? Re: Free FE!? Re: Oil and Tranny cooling. : Nuts and Bolts ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: JXS Subject: Electric Fuel Pumps Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 16:01:54 -0700 David, let me tackle this a little bit. I just put a Carter unit in mine and it has made a world of difference on the hot weather and in idling in general. . 1) If I have dual tanks should I put the electric pump right after the switch? I have three tanks on mine, and I first put a clear plastic filter right after the switch, and then go into the pump. ALWAYS filter before the in-line pump! The unit mounts on the outside of my frame, directly under the driver..... 2) Do you have to get a regulator to control the pressure? Where does it go? The Carter unit I have is a generic model and is set I think to 7psi. I don't have any regulator, I don't think you need one. 3) Any recomendations on what to get? I ordered mine from Jegs, but I'm sure your local parts store can get these. I'm going to get a spare, just in case. 4) Do they come in kits that have the pump, regulator, and oil pressure cutoff switch? They might, but you can order everything separately from Jegs. 5) How much will all of this cost? Less than $100. 6) Any one know where I can get the clear plastic fuel filters? Again, call around your local parts houses. I always put one up near the carb also, mostly just so can see the fuel moving.... Hope this helps! CJ (Colorado Jeff) -- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar -- -- Type: application/ms-tnef ------------------------------ From: "Michael Ray Jones" Subject: air brakes Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:18:06 -0500 Actually, on modern air brake systems, air is used to release the spring or emergency brakes, and apply the service brakes. > >> Yes, the air brake systems on the tractor and trailers on the road today need >> air pressure to release the brakes to move. > >These are Westinghouse brakes, invented by George Westinghouse to be used on >trains. Before this, air pressure was used to apply the brakes. It took a >horrific train crash to convince the industry that George was right and air >pressure should be used to release the brakes. > >And now you know...the rest of the story. ------------------------------ From: canzus seanet.com Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:33:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Freon At 05:31 PM 13:07:2000 -0500, John LaGrone wrote: >R12 does not deplete the ozone layer, How true, if someone can explain to me how a molecule that is heavier than air and it's molecules can get to the ozone layer, I'd be more than happy to remove all that R12... >By all rights, we >should still be able to buy R12 here in the States like everyone else can >and it should cost us about 25¢ a pound. Instead of $50 a lb as my father paid to have his Sable recharged... Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in..... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:49:20 -0400 From: Joe Subject: Re: Replacing U-joints Don i always put the driveshaft in a vice and use a socket a little smaller then the u joint and pound it out with a BFH. it always works..I also recently bought a shop press and that really makes it wasy.... Joe 68 4x4 "Don Haring, Jr." wrote: > One of the U-joints on my Club Wagon has really started to howl. I've never > replaced U-joints before, and even though I have a shop manual, I wanted to > get opinions on how difficult the job will be. The manual shows a C-clamp > tool for pressing the bearings in and out. Is there an acceptable > substitute, or would it just be easier to pull the driveshaft and take it > into a shop to have them install the U-joints? I'm mechanically competant, > just never done it before. > > BTW, the van failed inspection today because of the joints, and bad > kingpins, which means I'll have to take the front axle out again and have > it done right this time. :( As you might remember, my van was towed the > last time the axle was out, so I'll clear space down in my garage and work > on it hidden it from the "Man". haha :) > > Thanks, > don > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe: > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" Subject: Re: Freon Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 20:56:19 -0700 R12 does not deplete the ozone layer, > > How true, if someone can explain to me how a molecule that is heavier > than air and it's molecules can get to the ozone layer, I'd be more than > happy to remove all that R12... > Steve & the Rockette ======================================== you know the funny thing is that NASA is and has been the largest single entity to release R12 into the atmosphere for many years now they use it for something in the rockets when they lift off in florida i read this not long ago some wheres but cant recall where tho Another thing is the over a year ago Pennzoil and some other oil companies had a R12 replacement that was Not Flammable and is ozone friendly BUT you still need a A/C liscense to buy it tho FIGURE THAT OUT WHY gordon ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:02:31 -0700 (PDT) From: "D. DiMartino" Subject: Re: Old vs New Trucks wasn't thinking of a $60k+ retro.... D. --- John LaGrone > on 7/8/2000 11:48 AM, D. DiMartino at grunon yahoo.com wrote: > > > do you think it would sell? > > something like an old power wagon?? totally utilitarian? > i've > > had too much coffee this morning... > > Sounds kind of like a military Hummer to me. > > -- John > jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-) > 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) > http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm > Dearborn iron rules!!!! > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe: > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:44:39 -0700 (PDT) From: "J. Allison" Subject: Re: ScrewedByTheMAN! > From: "Don Haring, Jr." > Subject: Replacing U-joints -snip- > BTW, the van failed inspection today because of the joints, and bad kingpins, which means I'll have to take the front axle out again and have it done right this time. :( As you might remember, my van was towed the last time the axle was out, so I'll clear space down in my garage and work on it hidden it from the "Man". haha :) Thanks, don Don- Whatever happened to this deal anyway? Did you get your money back? Damages paid for? Satisfaction? I hope so... Let us know. J. Allison Ps If it's any consolation, I'm dueling it out right now with the county I live in called Henry County over a totally vague ordinance called "Obnoxious Vegetation" Go figure. I was bitched out to the "Man" by my bleepety-bleep-bleep neighbor who thinks he's got the right to tell me what to do on my own property. Too bad I caught him trespassing (3 TIMES!) and finally decided to swear out a warrant for his arrest. Piss on him!!! Think you live in the communist state? Here's one for ya. The penalty for above said ordinance violation is up to $1000 smacks AND 60 days in the slammer. A person who gets busted for DRUGS doesn't even come close to this unless it's a big time bust! Pretty sorry huh? Freedom in America? Rights in America? Think AGAIN! Now off soapbox... __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere! http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ From: "Jason" Subject: 400 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 01:56:11 GMT i am rebuilding my 400 from a 1978 f-250. How can i tell if it is standard or oversized or what ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" Subject: Re: 400 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 21:59:48 -0700 it will say so on th pistons and rod and main bearings usually gordon ---------- > From: Jason > To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com > Subject: [61-79-list] 400 > Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 6:56 PM > > i am rebuilding my 400 from a 1978 f-250. How can i tell if it is standard > or oversized or what > > ________________________________________________________________________ > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe: > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.com Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 22:59:58 EDT Subject: Re: Freon In a message dated 7/13/00 5:34:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, canzus seanet.com writes: << How true, if someone can explain to me how a molecule that is heavier than air and it's molecules can get to the ozone layer, I'd be more than happy to remove all that R12... >> Actually your half right, R12 is heavier than air. But what happens is sunlight breaks down the R12, and the chlorine is what gets in to the atmosphere and does all the damage. And one thing I haven't seen mentioned, is never expose R12 to flame. It turns into phosgene, otherwise known as Mustard gas. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "rich" Subject: Re: Freon Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 23:47:12 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: G & J Boling Another thing is the over a year ago Pennzoil and some other oil companies had a R12 replacement that was Not Flammable and is ozone friendly BUT youstill need a A/C liscense to buy it tho FIGURE THAT OUT. WHY? gordon Gorden I think I know. MONEY!! Think about it. You cant buy a replacement home split ac (Indoor or outdoor unit) with out a Mechanical Contractors license. You have to buy them from a buisnes, ie. your local HVAC retailer\installer. Is it the asumption that the average home owner is not capable of repacing these items? Don't tell me that no one on this list can't cut two copper lines, replace the unit, and silver solder the lines back together. :) Oh, I almost forgot, we would have to know how to hook up the wires as well. As per epa 60809 cert, HFC's (134a) or R22 for that matter, do not contribute to the depletion of the ozone, but you still have to have a license to purchase r22 or any 12 replacement. I even read that you will need a license to purchase 134a in the future. Why, you ask? MONEY! Right now the automotive industry is making a killing on just AC work because the average shadetree's are not allowed to re-fill their ac systems like they could 10 years ago. You have no choice but to take your truck to the local Fix It For Me to get it re-filled. Remember when you could get r12 on sale for around $1-$1.50 a lb on sale? look at the price now, I KNOW, I just purchased a 30 lb cylinder for $699.00. NOW, make it a requirement to have a license to purchase ALL freon. Where ya gonna go to get your AC re-filled? For most people, back to the local Fix It For Me, with the same labor charge and a slightly reduced freon cost (134a). Can you spell "got the market cornered". Up until last week, PepBoy's here in Virginia Beach would not sell anybody R12 with out the purchase of a compressor. What if every automotive store had that polocy? It kinda sucks to have the AVERAGE car ruck ac repair to be around $500-$600.00. Heck, I bought my 76 F250 4x4 in 1988 for $500.00. When I started out as a mechanic, ac was considered a subsystem. Look at it now, some repairs cost more than the vehicle is worth. Another thing, approximately 90% of r12 's price is taxes. Ok, the shops reclaim ecycle e-sell it (r12) to us, the consumer, one way or another via a wholesaler or whatever. I know there are some labor\handling charges involed with that. But is the price of recycling r12 equal to making R12 from scratch? I don't think so. OK, Well, why is recycled r12 sold for the same price as virgin r12 with it's 90% tax added? Sorry for the ramble, but this has been bothering me for years. Rich ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 23:30:52 -0400 (EDT) From: Scott Hall Subject: Re: Freon On Thu, 13 Jul 2000, rich wrote: > I think I know. MONEY!! Think about it. You cant buy a replacement home > split ac (Indoor or outdoor unit) with out a Mechanical Contractors license. > recycled r12 sold for the same price as virgin r12 with it's 90% tax added? > Sorry for the ramble, but this has been bothering me for years. I don't think it's as much about the shops/retailers making the money as it is about dupont. like somebody else said, their patent ran out...time to mandate something else be sold to the public. this is pretty much the same reason most illegal drugs are illegal. scott ------------------------------ From: "rich" Subject: Re: Freon Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 00:16:35 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Hall recycled r12 sold for the same price as virgin r12 with it's 90% tax added? Sorry for the ramble, but this has been bothering me for years. I don't think it's as much about the shops/retailers making the money as it is about dupont. like somebody else said, their patent ran out...time to mandate something else be sold to the public. this is pretty much the same reason most illegal drugs are illegal. scott Do you think Dupont get's a royalty for every lb of r12 recycled? How much? How do they know how much is recycled? that money is going somewhere. Not saying your wrong here. Just think it's a racket, or double taxation (with out representation) Rich ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 23:52:44 -0400 (EDT) From: Scott Hall Subject: Re: Freon On Fri, 14 Jul 2000, rich wrote: > I don't think it's as much about the shops/retailers making the money as > it is about dupont. like somebody else said, their patent ran out...time to > mandate something else be sold to the public. > this is pretty much the same reason most illegal drugs are illegal. > > Do you think Dupont get's a royalty for every lb of r12 recycled? How much? > How do they know how much is recycled? that money is going somewhere. Not > saying your wrong here. Just think it's a racket, or double taxation (with > out representation) no, no, I doubt dupont gets royalities for recycled r12. but their original action made r12 scarce to begin with, the shops are just being opportunistic. their all asses to be sure, but I think dupont is the root cause here. scott ------------------------------ From: JJJJJGRANT aol.comDate: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 00:08:26 EDT Subject: Re: modified DOVE-C heads i would be afraid of these heads for a street machine. jeff ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 23:47:05 -0500 From: Dwight Comfort Subject: rear gas tank Hi Robert I have a '75 F250 2wd lwb Supercab with the dual tanks. I am here in Bismarck and if you want to take measurements or anything, just contact me off list. Dwight Comfort also of Bismarck Robert wrote: >Subject: rear gas tank >Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:26:06 -0500 >From: Tammy & Robert Dolan >Subject: rear gas tank > >I am trying to locate a rear tank for my 73 f250 2wd swb crewcab. The >truck never had a rear tank, but a while back i remember someone talking >about installing a tank from some other make? Anyone have any good >suggestions? Robert Bismarck ND ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 23:53:47 -0500 www.summitracing.com ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: David.R.John deluxe.comTo: 61-79-list ford-trucks.comSent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 9:27 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Electric fuel pump Hey all, I know we have had threads on some of this in the past but I would appreciate you alls wisdom to my specific questions. This is in regards to my 78 F250 4x4 460 with an Edelbrock performer intake and Edelbrock 4bb 750cfm carb. 1) If I have dual tanks should I put the electric pump right after the switch? 2) Do you have to get a regulator to control the pressure? Where does it go? 3) Any recomendations on what to get? 4) Do they come in kits that have the pump, regulator, and oil pressure cutoff switch? 5) How much will all of this cost? 6) Any one know where I can get the clear plastic fuel filters? Thanks in advance for all of the info. David John 78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 C6 Camper Special ========================================================== To unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.comDate: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 01:24:18 EDT Subject: Re: Freon In a message dated 7/13/00 8:00:47 PM Pacific Daylight Time, JUMPINFORD aol.com writes:<< < How true, if someone can explain to me how a molecule that is heavier than air and it's molecules can get to the ozone layer, I'd be more than happy to remove all that R12... >> Actually your half right, R12 is heavier than air. But what happens is sunlight breaks down the R12, and the chlorine is what gets in to the atmosphere and does all the damage. And one thing I haven't seen mentioned, is never expose R12 to flame. It turns into phosgene, otherwise known as Mustard gas. Darrell & Tweety >> The whole ozone thing is political. The way freon gets up there is through air currents and general mixing, but there is a steady state value of freon up high (not much though). It is true that the in coming ultra violet radiation can break freon apart but if it gets broken up near the ground the chlorine or fluorine is extremely reactive and will combine with some before it ever gets up very high. The extremist would have you believe that chlorine or fluorine reacts with a ozone and wipes it out. This is true but what they do not tell you is the process of creating ozone from oxygen attenuates the ultra violet energy. And the process of the ozone attenuating the energy causes the ozone to break down into oxygen again, and then more energy absorbed to get back to ozone. The scare factor is built around the precept that the chlorine or fluorine will not go away when the radiation breaks up the new compound of oxygen and chlorine, it releases the chlorine/fluorine to wipe out another ozone. The whole point that is missed is all of these things reduce the energy reaching the ground. Anything that is up high will interact with the radiation and reduce the energy reaching the ground. Why might the ozone over the poles become low at times, will think about it during the winter there is no incoming radiation over the poles during the winter, it stays dark for 6 months. Absolutely no ozone production so there has to be a ozone hole. I too am discussed with the regulations. Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: "davidl" Subject: Re: 62 Unibody Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 00:44:24 -0500 The battery box and the innerfender below it are problem spots and the floor to the front of the box the water stands in some of them Were is it if you dont want one more?. I think I can fit one in the yard still Dave 61 donor unibody 8foot 62 unibody in the stages of trying to figure out what to do with it 62 mine this week unibody 292 RED 62 parts donor 77 e350 motor home 460 what else 78 f250 4x4 429 83 f250 4x4 just a 302 now dana 50 front 35 tires 4" sup 4"body 85 f250 4x4 6.9 4sp nothing new but lots of fun -----Original Message----- From: Natp244 cs.com To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 2:39 PM Subject: [61-79-list] 62 Unibody >Hello to all- >A gentleman I know is selling a 1962 Unibody, 223 I-6. I am interested in >the truck and need some unibody-specific advice before I go to look at it. >Are there any areas on these trucks that are particualrly prone to rust? Any >special things I should look for (i.e.- scarce parts missing, body alignent, >etc.?) >I have 2 project trucks going right now and really don't NEED another, but >this is a friendship deal of sorts (real cheap) and I'm sure its worth the >asking price. My reservation about it is that with two trucks going now I do >not want to bite off more than I can chew and end up with a truck I can do >nothing with. Any advice is helpful and appreciated. Thanks. >. ------------------------------ From: oldfords63 juno.comDate: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 01:39:41 -0500 Subject: Rare old 4x4 truck Thought I'd pass this one on. 1965 Ford F-250, 3/4 ton, 4x4, 390/ 4 speed, 4.56 gears, lockers, needs exhaust, $1250.00 Gaston, Ind. 765-358-4349 ( Saw it in auto-rv.com ad # C18110376 ) Doesn't look too bad......later, Phil ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" Subject: Freon Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 03:53:41 -0700 > Gordon > > I think I know. MONEY!! > Rich > > ========================================= Your exactly right Rich it hasnt got a thing to do with the ozone or anything else its just MONEY is all it is big business saw a way to make a big killing with the freon and got the government to help them do it gordon ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" Subject: Motor mounts Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 06:57:43 -0500 Larry writes: >>No one mention anything about a Left and Right side mount. I just bought a pair for my 74 350 2wd at advance auto and his computer showed a L & R two different part number and two different prices. (8.00 & 7.00). I haven't try to put them on Should I do some more research or was I informed correctly?<< Yep.. A Left and A right. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: SMOKEY5209 aol.comDate: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 08:09:43 EDT Subject: Nuts and Bolts I am looking for a source for good quality nuts and bolts for my restoration. I am looking for bolt kits if available. Engine kits, body kits etc. Thanks Ed ------------------------------ From: SMOKEY5209 aol.comDate: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 08:11:26 EDT Subject: Lowering Kits I am restoring a 1970 Ford 2wd pick-up and was looking for a kit to lower the rear. It just sits to high. I was told just take out some of the springs, but there must be a better way. Thanks Ed ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 05:30:08 -0700 From: "John MacNamara" Subject: Re: Nuts and Bolts -- Unable to decode HTML file!! -- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 08:52:22 -0400 From: Ted Wnorowski Subject: Re: 62 Unibody At 03:36 PM 7/13/00 -0400, you wrote: >Hello to all- > Any >special things I should look for (i.e.- scarce parts missing, I seen from The List that tailgates for these are hard to find, and expensive when you do find one. Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH mailto:theodore ford-trucks.com' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed ' 63 F-100 parts truck ' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 08:55:04 -0400 From: "Huston, Virgil H." Subject: Courier I am looking for sources of info/parts for a 72 Courier. I can find nothing. Anybody know? Thanks, Virgil Huston Johnston, South Carolina ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 05:57:39 -0700 From: "John MacNamara" Subject: Re: Nuts and Bolts Try this: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://amkproducts.com/Ford_Master_Kits.asp SMOKEY5209 aol.com wrote:> I am looking for a source for good quality nuts and bolts for my restoration. > I am looking for bolt kits if available. Engine kits, body kits etc. > Thanks > Ed > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe: > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 05:59:45 -0700 From: Dennis Pearson Subject: Re: 62 Unibody Ted Wnorowski wrote: Any > >special things I should look for (i.e.- scarce parts missing, > > I seen from The List that tailgates for these are hard to find, > and expensive when you do find one. Very ex and, in my opinion, the ugliest tailgate Ford ever made. I finally just took mine off. I got tired of looking at it, being Butt-ugly and beat-up to boot... Sometimes in my search for a nice tailgate, I feel like I'm searching for the Holy Grail...or is that the Wholy Tail(gate)...Man, it must be early and I really need this double Americano sitting in front of me... ------------------------------ From: "NP 540" Subject: School bus Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 06:09:46 PDT Today, I was just "Safari-hunting" with my neighbor; he was looking for 3-tons Dodge trucks parts.... And guess what I stumble upon? An early '60's school bus; a MERCURY school bus!!! :) I have seen a few Mercury pickups, even one 3-ton early '60's Mercury truck that belong to a friend of mine, but NEVER a Mercury school bus before! What a sight! Too bad it was all rusted out, and not much pieces left on it too. Had a FT engine in it. What a sight that was. (it's in New-Brunswick, Canada) :) Gerry 1978 F-150 SuperCab 4x4 351M-NP435-NP205 1979 F-150 regular cab 4x4 351M-NP435-NP205 M-block disciple VIVE LE FORD! ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 08:08:14 -0500 Subject: Oil and Tranny cooling. From: "Rusty Nail" Would like to get the list's opinion on individual oil and tranny coolers. I saw Summit had a dual cooler for about $90. I am wondering how much this will cool down my engine/tranny, with this summer heat my cab gets smoldering hot once the engine heats up. opinions and advice are much welcome. rusty in kcmo 77, 2wd f-150 400 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 08:28:35 -0600 From: "Richard Currit" Subject: Free FE!? I found this on the MoPar Mailing List. Maybe an FTE member in Southern Cal. can rescue this engine and give it the respect it deserves. High Plains Richard '71 F-100 ?--------------------------------------------------------------------- >Message Number: 3 >Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:15:40 EDT >From: IanMarkV aol.com>Subject: What to do with old engine??? > >Hey all- >This is getting to be an emergency. I have 2 weeks >to move my two engines and nowhere for them to >go. >Case 1: 1966 Ford 390. >I could care less about this motor. I am not paying >for someone to haul it away since they charge by >the pound. I wish I could dump it into the ocean. > >Maybe I can bury it? > >Case 2: 1968 Mopar 440/727. >I want some money for this. Or if I can keep the >heads, somebody come and get the short block >assembly and the tranny for free. Otherwise, it's >$100. > >Still a steal. > >I am in Santa Barbara, CA. (805)-683-4339. Tell >your friends. > >--ian ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: Re: Free FE!? Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 07:45:04 -0700 >Case 1: 1966 Ford 390. >I could care less about this motor. I am not paying >for someone to haul it away since they charge by >the pound. I wish I could dump it into the ocean. > >Maybe I can bury it? Forgive them, for they know not what they say or what they do... ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" Subject: Re: Oil and Tranny cooling. Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:00:39 -0700 ---------- > From: Rusty Nail > To: ford post <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>> Subject: [61-79-list] Oil and Tranny cooling. > Date: Friday, July 14, 2000 6:08 AM > > Would like to get the list's opinion on individual oil and tranny coolers. I > saw Summit had a dual cooler for about $90. I am wondering how much this > will cool down my engine/tranny, with this summer heat my cab gets > smoldering hot once the engine heats up. rusty in kcmo > 77, 2wd f-150 400 > ======================================== rusty you probably will not notice any difference in the interior heat but will on the oil pressure and the tranny will last longer most likely HEAT is the next biggest enemy of oil next to dirt gordon ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" Subject: : Nuts and Bolts Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:02:49 -0700 > > I am looking for a source for good quality nuts and bolts for my restoration. > > I am looking for bolt kits if available. Engine kits, body kits etc. > > Thanks > > Ed > > ======================================== try MILL SUPPLY the have about any kind of bolt you could want gordon ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 13:52:11 -0500 Subject: Re: Replacing U-joints From: John LaGrone on 7/13/2000 4:58 PM, Don Haring, Jr. at haring fedora.net wrote:> The manual shows a C-clamp > tool for pressing the bearings in and out. Is there an acceptable > substitute, or would it just be easier to pull the driveshaft and take it > into a shop to have them install the U-joints? I'm mechanically competant, > just never done it before. Don, I use a ball peen hammer, a piece of railroad track (for an anvil), a correct diameter Craftsman socket, and whatever pliers are needed to undo the keepers. If you do one, do them all. Procedure: 1. Remove drive shaft from truck keeping in mind that the rear seal on an automatic tranny will usually leak when you remove the driveshaft. I don't know about manual trannies, I don't own any. 2. Remove the cups from the rear u-joint. Repair the rear joint last so that you don't screw up the bearing surface while you are working on the front. Remove the keepers from the front u-joint. They are either lock rings on the inside of the cup that slide off or they are twisty looking keys in grooves on the outside of the yoke. Sometimes originals are set with plastic and have no other keepers. 3. Support the drive shaft off of the work surface about twice the width of the yoke. Consider tying a rag around the part that goes into the tranny to prevent dings. Set it so that it doesn't roll while you are hammering (later step). Sometimes I can do it alone, sometimes SWMBO helps. A big nice vice would be nice, but I have never had one. 4. Choose a socket that just fits inside the barrel of the yoke where the u-joint resides. 5. Drive the u-joint down until the cup on top clears or the web bottoms on the yoke. Use a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the cup sticking out the bottom. If the cup you were driving will come out, remove it. If not, turn the drive shaft 180 degrees and drive it to the outside using something besides the cup you just took off. 6. Repeat for the other part of the u-joint. 7. Reverse procedure to install, except you can go ahead and install the cups, don't drive (hammer) on the new web. 8. Reinstall drive shaft. If at all possible, get u-joints with Zerk fittings and grease them religiously. Hope this helps, either to do it, or hire it done. I think the 4x4 crowd invented a tool to change them more easily. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #158 *********************************** <><><><><><> Serious Help Finding That Part! <><><><><><> Ford Truck Enthusiasts now has "Ford Products Interchange" manuals in its online store. Two editions: 1950-1965 and 1963-1974. Cross references thousands of Ford parts. http://www.motorhaven.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 61-79-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- |
