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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:23 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #157
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 12 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 157

In This Issue:
(Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense
Re: (Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense
Re: [61-79-list]ENGINE PAINT
Re: Freon
rear gas tank
Re: Freon
Re: Freon
Re: Freon- and POR-15
Re: Freon
Re: Freon
Re: Freon- and POR-15
Re: Freon- and POR-15
Re: [61-79-list]ENGINE PAINT
390 mounts/engine paint
Electric fuel pump
Re: 390 engine mounts
Re: Electric fuel pump
Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts
Re: [Body work in Colorado]
62 Unibody
Re: 390 mounts/engine paint
Re: Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts
Replacing U-joints
[61-79-list]RE: Replacing U-joints

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:58:10 EDT
Subject: (Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense

That adage is true most of the time, but let me tell you about another one:
penny wise and pound foolish! Sometimes that one grabs you right in the back
side. FTE content: I performed an oil change on the 66 yesterday as it just
turned it's first 1,000 miles since the rebuild. So far so good!

Stock Man
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

>
> Of course buying the tool would make it easier, but a dollar saved is a
> dollar earned right?
>

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" writeme.com>
Subject: Re: (Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:04:30 -0500


I changed the oil in my 390 5 miles after the rebuild, then again 300 miles later.

Some things are worth spending the money on, like the Mobil 1 synthetic I use (after breaking it in on regular oil of course).

[sarcasm] Things never go off topic here [/sarcasm] ... but that's ok :)



---Garrett www.1966ford.com



----- Original Message -----
From: TBeeee aol.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 8:58 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] (Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense


That adage is true most of the time, but let me tell you about another one:
penny wise and pound foolish! Sometimes that one grabs you right in the back
side. FTE content: I performed an oil change on the 66 yesterday as it just
turned it's first 1,000 miles since the rebuild. So far so good!

Stock Man
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

>
> Of course buying the tool would make it easier, but a dollar saved is a
> dollar earned right?



------------------------------

From: Clemstang1 aol.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:19:09 EDT
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]ENGINE PAINT

Have use on most of my engines just PPG Acrylic Enamel out of a paint gun.
Works very well, little discoloration around the exhaust ports and stays on
the block very well after multiple cleanings (usually every Friday night).
Usually will just come clean with soap and water or a mild detergent. Last
block I painted last well up to 5 years till I popped the motor (little too
much N20). After 3 vatting of the heads and block there was still was paint
on them. The only thing that I noticed with using the paint is you don't want
to put it on to heavy or there will be some small problems with flaking. I've
just put the paint on the bare metal and had no problems with it sticking as
long as the engine was cleaned good. Last engine did use a PPG self etching
primer before painting (helped smooth out the imperfections in the block).
Also used just sprayable clear coat on the intake works really well too.(like
to be able to keep the ole engine clean).Been playing with a sprayable header
coating lately too......# months on this motor and no discoloration yet (have
to wait and see)

Just some of my experances.............

Jeff
73 F-150 SB (pro-street) 540
79 F-150 LB(Lariat) 460
89 LX Mustang 302 (in the works!!!!!!!!)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:26:15 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Freon

At 10:58 AM 7/12/00 -0700, you wrote:

> > Any hydrocarbon replacement freon is the kind that can go BOOM.
> > >
> > > Terry Weaver
> > > 78 350 srw
> > > =========================================
> > from what i have understood is even the old R12 can burn that
> > was 1 way
> > they used to check for leaks with a propane torch
> > gordon
> >
>
>Yes I've seen freon leak detectors that worked that way. The flame changes
>colors. Gotta be real careful burning freon though. The byproduct of freon
>combustion is a nerve gas. I think phosgene.
>
>Tom H.



In High School we used a Halide torch. It was a propane torch with
a special burner and a rubber hose attached. When the end of the hose would
get close to a leak it would turn bluish-green.
I don't know about the gas, but freon and water creates flouric
acid. One reason to pull a "complete" vacuum. Our teacher always told us.
If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to
rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He
claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs
QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form.

Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH
mailto:theodore ford-trucks.com
' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed
' 63 F-100 parts truck
' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed










------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:26:06 -0500
From: Tammy & Robert Dolan btigate.com>
Subject: rear gas tank

I am trying to locate a rear tank for my 73 f250 2wd swb crewcab. The
truck never had a rear tank, but a while back i remember someone talking
about installing a tank from some other make? Anyone have any good
suggestions? Robert Bismarck ND

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:33:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott Hall garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Freon

On Wed, 12 Jul 2000, Ted Wnorowski wrote:

> If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to
> rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He
> claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs
> QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form.

dear god.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:35:59 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Freon

At 11:33 PM 7/12/00 -0400, you wrote:
>On Wed, 12 Jul 2000, Ted Wnorowski wrote:
>
> > If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to
> > rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He
> > claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs
> > QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form.
>
>dear god.



That was about the same response the class gave him !!! : )


Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH
mailto:theodore ford-trucks.com
' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed
' 63 F-100 parts truck
' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed










------------------------------

From: Natp244 cs.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:37:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Freon- and POR-15

In a message dated 7/12/00 10:26:51 PM Central Daylight Time,
theodore ford-trucks.com writes:

<< Our teacher always told us.
If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to
rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He
claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs
QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form. >>

And a little while before that, Stockman wrote (on another subject):
"That adage is true most of the time, but let me tell you about another one:
penny wise and pound foolish! Sometimes that one grabs you right in the back
side"

Hmmmm.. I think if I ever need AC service I will take both of these to heart
and hire it done! Might be costly but it sure beats the alternative!

And just to include something relevant- what exactly is POR 15, how is it
applied, and where can it be purchased? is it anything like Eastwood's
Chassis black? I keep hearing about it and am about to paint the frame of my
64- thought I might want to check it out before I proceed. Thanks

Nate

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:38:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott Hall garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Freon

On Wed, 12 Jul 2000, Ted Wnorowski wrote:

> > > If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to
> > > rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He
> > > claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs
> > > QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form.
> >
> >dear god.
>
> That was about the same response the class gave him !!! : )

and no one EVER messed with that teacher! EVER!!!


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" writeme.com>
Subject: Re: Freon
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:35:27 -0500


My thoughts exactly!


---Garrett www.1966ford.com



----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Hall
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 10:33 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Freon


On Wed, 12 Jul 2000, Ted Wnorowski wrote:

> If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to
> rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He
> claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs
> QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form.

dear god.



------------------------------

From: SHill48337aol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 01:05:00 EDT
Subject: Re: Freon- and POR-15

In a message dated 7/12/00 8:39:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Natp244cs.com
writes:

<<
And just to include something relevant- what exactly is POR 15, how is it
applied, and where can it be purchased? is it anything like Eastwood's
Chassis black? I keep hearing about it and am about to paint the frame of my
64- thought I might want to check it out before I proceed. Thanks >>

No, POR-15 is not the same as what Eastwood sells (POR 14 is tremendously
better if you ask me). If you use your search engine and search on POR 15
you will get the home page and can read up on it and order if you like.
Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: "davidl" tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Freon- and POR-15
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 01:31:51 -0500

por 15 link one of many

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.por15cr.com/
Dave
61 donor unibody 8foot
62 unibody in the stages of trying to figure out what to do with it
62 almost like new and soon to be mine this week unibody 292 RED
62 parts donor unibody
77 e350 motor home 460 what else
78 f250 4x4 429
83 f250 4x4 just a 302 now dana 50 front 35 tires 4" sup 4"body
85 f250 4x4 6.9 4sp
nothing new but lots of fun

-----Original Message-----
From: SHill48337aol.com aol.com>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 12:06 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Freon- and POR-15


>In a message dated 7/12/00 8:39:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Natp244cs.com
>writes:
>
><<
> And just to include something relevant- what exactly is POR 15, how is it
> applied, and where can it be purchased? is it anything like Eastwood's
> Chassis black? I keep hearing about it and am about to paint the frame of
my
> 64- thought I might want to check it out before I proceed. Thanks >>
>
>No, POR-15 is not the same as what Eastwood sells (POR 14 is tremendously
>better if you ask me). If you use your search engine and search on POR 15
>you will get the home page and can read up on it and order if you like.
>Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe:
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "davidl" tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]ENGINE PAINT
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 01:37:58 -0500

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.por15cr.com/catalog/enamel.html

Engine paint




Dave
61 donor unibody 8foot
62 unibody in the stages of trying to figure out what to do with it
62 mine this week unibody 292 RED
62 parts donor unibody
77 e350 motor home 460 what else
78 f250 4x4 429
83 f250 4x4 just a 302 now dana 50 front 35 tires 4" sup 4"body
85 f250 4x4 6.9 4sp
nothing new but lots of fun

-


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:39:00 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp angelo.edu>
Subject: 390 mounts/engine paint

I'm in digest mode and was scaning through the replies to the motor mounts.
No one mention anything about a Left and Right side mount. I just bought a
pair for my 74 350 2wd at advance auto and his computer showed a L & R two
different part number and two different prices. (8.00 & 7.00). I haven't
try to put them on
Should I do some more research or was I informed correctly?

Engine paint. Does the por 15 engine paint require baking? Reason I ask is
I ran across some high temp. (1200 degrees) spray can at the local
automotive paint shop. WOW! Try to spray it on the engine and it acted like
water. Ran every where's. Now read the instruction.... Requires baking for
24 hrs. Out of my league.. Food for thought. Does por 15 require baking?

Sorry about the rambling..

Larry



------------------------------

From: David.R.Johndeluxe.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:27:06 -0500
Subject: Electric fuel pump

Hey all,

I know we have had threads on some of this in the past but I would
appreciate you alls wisdom to my specific questions. This is in regards to
my 78 F250 4x4 460 with an Edelbrock performer intake and Edelbrock 4bb
750cfm carb.
1) If I have dual tanks should I put the electric pump right after the
switch?
2) Do you have to get a regulator to control the pressure? Where does
it go?
3) Any recomendations on what to get?
4) Do they come in kits that have the pump, regulator, and oil
pressure cutoff switch?
5) How much will all of this cost?
6) Any one know where I can get the clear plastic fuel filters?

Thanks in advance for all of the info.

David John
78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 C6 Camper Special


------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORDaol.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:59:16 EDT
Subject: Re: 390 engine mounts

In a message dated 7/11/00 5:56:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
umberto97yahoo.com writes:

<< The mounts on the existing engine are threaded while
the new ones simply have an unthreaded nipple. >>

I think thats just a rubber coating over the bolt. Just peel it off, but do
it before you set the motor in, because its a pain to do after the motor is
in.

Darrell & Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:05:31 -0700

1) If I have dual tanks should I put the electric pump right after the
switch?

Pumps push much better than the pull. IMHO, the location you suggest would
be best.

2) Do you have to get a regulator to control the pressure? Where does
it go?

In your case, you will probably want/need a high volume pump. I would
recommend a regulator in this case. Typically they are installed just
before the carburetor (easier to adjust that way)

3) Any recomendations on what to get?

I'd take a look at Holley and Edelbrock. I'm sure others have their
favorites.

4) Do they come in kits that have the pump, regulator, and oil
pressure cutoff switch?

Not that I'm aware of. The oil pressure switch varies from engine to engine
and that would require the manufacturer to produce many different kit part
numbers...

5) How much will all of this cost?

Haven't priced this stuff in awhile, but a good pump will probably run close
to $100, a regulator about $50 and the switch I don't know. I'd say you'll
be spending in the neighborhood of 2 bills before you're done.

6) Any one know where I can get the clear plastic fuel filters?

Fram P/N G12. About $3. Large clear plastic filter with 3/8" hose
fittings.

------------------------------

From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:04:56 -0700

Last night I was out taking the trim off the Lariat box (Live prawns
in salt water were carried in it and the water slopped around in the box -
Kaput) and I couldn't figure out how to take the the small trim that
outlines the wheel wells of the box off. Any help on this would be much
appreciated as I'd like to save it for someone that may need it down the
road..
Much thanks to Steve and the Rockette, Gordon and Jason for the tips
on dealing with my "Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts" trials and
tribulations. Right when I was wondering whether to use grade 8 there's the
answer that been tried, as were the rest of the ideas.



------------------------------

Date: 13 Jul 00 11:55:05 MDT
From: Brent Dickerson my.gazette.com>
Subject: Re: [Body work in Colorado]

I know someone who does the work out of his garage in the evenings (Colorado
Springs). Slower than a professional shop but he is cheaper and does decent
work. Let me know if you're interested.
brent

"Steve and Fran" offspringnet.net> wrote:
> I'd like to have some rust cut out and get a paint job on my '78. I'm not
> lookin' to spend a fortune, just keep the truck looking respectable. Any
> suggestions (in Colorado, preferably close to Colorado Springs).
>
> Steve Smith
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: Natp244cs.com
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 15:36:57 EDT
Subject: 62 Unibody

Hello to all-
A gentleman I know is selling a 1962 Unibody, 223 I-6. I am interested in
the truck and need some unibody-specific advice before I go to look at it.
Are there any areas on these trucks that are particualrly prone to rust? Any
special things I should look for (i.e.- scarce parts missing, body alignent,
etc.?)
I have 2 project trucks going right now and really don't NEED another, but
this is a friendship deal of sorts (real cheap) and I'm sure its worth the
asking price. My reservation about it is that with two trucks going now I do
not want to bite off more than I can chew and end up with a truck I can do
nothing with. Any advice is helpful and appreciated. Thanks.

Nate

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 390 mounts/engine paint
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 16:02:36 -0700



> Engine paint. Does the por 15 engine paint require baking?
> Larry
=========================================NO it does not need to be baked on
except from the engine heat is all
gordon

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:33:51 -0700



I couldn't figure out how to take the the small trim that
> outlines the wheel wells of the box off. Any help on this would be much
> appreciated as I'd like to save it for someone that may need it down the
> road..
========================================i am not sure what type of trim it
is but you could take a screwdriver inserted into the screw slot then smack
it with a hammer to break it loose if that dont work maybe try and use a
byrnzamatic torch to heat around it then try removing the fasteners i do
this all the time on headlight trim
gordon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:58:30 -0400
From: "Don Haring, Jr." fedora.net>
Subject: Replacing U-joints

One of the U-joints on my Club Wagon has really started to howl. I've never
replaced U-joints before, and even though I have a shop manual, I wanted to
get opinions on how difficult the job will be. The manual shows a C-clamp
tool for pressing the bearings in and out. Is there an acceptable
substitute, or would it just be easier to pull the driveshaft and take it
into a shop to have them install the U-joints? I'm mechanically competant,
just never done it before.

BTW, the van failed inspection today because of the joints, and bad
kingpins, which means I'll have to take the front axle out again and have
it done right this time. :( As you might remember, my van was towed the
last time the axle was out, so I'll clear space down in my garage and work
on it hidden it from the "Man". haha :)

Thanks,
don



------------------------------

From: "Ross" alaska.net>
Subject: [61-79-list]RE: Replacing U-joints
Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 14:28:38 -0800

if you can pull the driveshaft it is easier to use a vise than a C-clamp
use one socket just smaller that the end of the U-joint on one side, and a
socket just larger that the U-joint on the other side.

if you are lucky it will just press right out




----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Haring, Jr." fedora.net>
To: quik.com>; <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 13:58
Subject: [61-79-list] Replacing U-joints


> One of the U-joints on my Club Wagon has really started to howl. I've
never
> replaced U-joints before, and even though I have a shop manual, I wanted
to
> get opinions on how difficult the job will be. The manual shows a C-clamp
> tool for pressing the bearings in and out. Is there an acceptable
> substitute, or would it just be easier to pull the driveshaft and take it
> into a shop to have them install the U-joints? I'm mechanically competant,
> just never done it before.
>
> BTW, the van failed inspection today because of the joints, and bad
> kingpins, which means I'll have to take the front axle out again and have
> it done right this time. :( As you might remember, my van was towed the
> last time the axle was out, so I'll clear space down in my garage and work
> on it hidden it from the "Man". haha :)
>
> Thanks,
> don
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:04 -0500
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]tailgate removal
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

>> just like some ads now advising to remove your tailgate for better mpg
>> not really
>> most of the strength is in the rear to support the sides so when you take
>> it off after ahile you end uf with friendly rear sides waving at everyone
>
>
> Actually I haven't seen one of those in years. I think there's an article on
> the FTE site explaining that anythign built after about 86 or so has the
> aerodynamics
> of the bed figured in and removing the tailgate might actually hurt mileage

So, I'm behind on my e-mail. Can you say vacation? 238 FTE messages. Woowoo,
FTE overload. NOT!!!

I had my tailgate off for about 6 months or so last year while I refinished
it. I could not tell one iota of difference in the gas mileage. If I wanted
an economy car, I'd buy a little two seat rice burner. Been there, done
that, never to go that way again.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:05 -0500
Subject: tailgate chrome
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

While junkyard hopping a couple of weeks ago (now that is quality vacation
time) I stumbled across a piece of chrome for my tailgate. Luckily I didn't
bend it. Actually it was on a super cab XLT. Amazingly, the tailgate was
beat up in such a manner that no one wanted it, but the insert I wanted was
OK. The truck had been backed into posts with the gate down and had nice
little half moons in a couple of places along the top. Anyway, I paid $15
for the center insert that says "FORD". It runs well over $100 in LMC. Just
what I was looking for to finish off the rear of Henry. When I get it on, I
will post pictures (promises, promises) so that you can see what van tail
light trim looks like with this insert.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Old vs New Trucks
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 7/8/2000 11:48 AM, D. DiMartino at grunonyahoo.com wrote:

> do you think it would sell?
> something like an old power wagon?? totally utilitarian? i've
> had too much coffee this morning...

Sounds kind of like a military Hummer to me.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Custom Cab
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 7/10/2000 1:03 PM, dave Prasse at burgess4gte.net wrote:

> Hi Phil,
>
> My '66 2wd F250 , base truck , no options
> has a padded dash.
> My '65 2wd Custom cab and my '66 4x4
> custom cab , neither have the padded dash
>
> dave Prasse

Hey, guys. Padded dashes were mandated by the feds beginning January 1,
1967, along with some other safety equipment. Ford has always been known as
a safety minded company and probably had some earlier trucks with padded
dashes. These safety features were phased in over several years and started
with the lightest duty models first. In the same model years you may find an
F100 with the padded dash, but not an F350, as an example. Other components
of this safety law included four way flashers, side marker lights, parking
lights that illuminate with the head lights, energy absorbing steering
columns, dual circuit brake systems, and that's all I can think of right
now.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Freon
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 7/10/2000 11:21 PM, rich at richthexis.net wrote:

> I know some of the R12
> replacements or "mixes" used to be flamable. Not sure if that has changed
> by now or not.

When I researched about 6 months ago, most of the R12 replacements were
largely propane. I went to the EPA site and read articles on every
alternative for R12. None perform as well as R12 in automotive systems.
Everyone of them, including R134a, is a temporary fix as they will all be
phased out over the next 10 to 20 years as "better" refrigerants are
invented. Pshaw! Anyway, I was not satisfied with the chemical components of
any of the R12 alternatives and felt that R134a would not cool
satisfactorily in my system the way I drive (mostly city, little freeway). I
have since been told that there is a new expansion tube that is spring
loaded and changes size to improve poor performance at idle by converted
R134a systems. It is over 100 degrees right now here in central Texas. Both
of my R12 systems have worked well today.

R12 does not deplete the ozone layer, but Dupont's patent did expire and
they weren't going to make any more royalty money from it. By all rights, we
should still be able to buy R12 here in the States like everyone else can
and it should cost us about 25 a pound.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500
Subject: Re: Air vs Hyd brakes
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 7/11/2000 1:24 PM, SevnD2aol.com at SevnD2aol.com wrote:

> Yes, the air brake systems on the tractor and trailers on the road today need
> air pressure to release the brakes to move.

These are Westinghouse brakes, invented by George Westinghouse to be used on
trains. Before this, air pressure was used to apply the brakes. It took a
horrific train crash to convince the industry that George was right and air
pressure should be used to release the brakes.

And now you know...the rest of the story.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500
Subject: Re: replacement freon
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 7/11/2000 3:10 PM, DWeaver232aol.com at DWeaver232aol.com wrote:

> How many of you that
> have electric fuel pumps have an inertia switch to turn the pump off in case
> of accident?

I do. Of course it is on my wife's Towncar. I have rescued several EFI
powered vehicles by knowing to look for the inertia switch.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500
Subject: Re: pulling trim
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 7/12/2000 8:45 PM, Garrett Nelson at garrettnelsonwriteme.com wrote:

> There is a tool but I removed my trim without one. The trim is held on with
> plastic clips which are bolted onto the body panels. The trim on the box and
> the hood is easy, because you can reach the nuts on the backside. Remove them
> and the trim comes right off. For the other trim, I very carefully pried an
> edge of the trim away from the body with a screwdriver, then used a bright
> light to see where the clips were. If you can see them, you can rotate them
> with a narrow screwdriver or a similar tool. Just be careful and take your
> time.
>
> Of course buying the tool would make it easier, but a dollar saved is a dollar
> earned right?

Also, if you can get both ends loose, you should be able to slide the trim
down the body panel. When the clip gets to the right place, it should just
come off. They usually leave the retaining edge slotted near one end or the
other (but not always). Often you can't recognize the trick until the trim
is off in your hands.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Freon- and POR-15
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 7/12/2000 10:37 PM, Natp244cs.com at Natp244cs.com wrote:

> Hmmmm.. I think if I ever need AC service I will take both of these to heart
> and hire it done! Might be costly but it sure beats the alternative!

Before the "ban" on R12 I used to do all of my own air conditioning work. I
have all of the gauges (and know how to read them), an evacuation pump made
from an old refrigerator compressor, and odds and ends of connectors etc.
Rubber o-rings are cheap and you can buy hoses, clamps, condensers,
evaporators, you name it for roughly half of what you will pay for them if a
shop installs them. With the right tools and the patience to learn the
skills, all you have to get from the shop is the $40 labor charge and
whatever Freon it takes. I did a $900 job on the Towncar last year for under
$400, including Freon. I actually spent close to $500, but I wasted $100
after being lied to twice.

Oh yeah...always wear goggles when working around an air conditioner or a
running engine.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:07 -0500
Subject: Re: pulling trim
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 7/12/2000 11:19 PM, G & J Boling at flash1alltel.net wrote:

> Somebody told me there is a tool to get behind the molding and pop it
>> free, anybody know how to do it/where to get the tool? Can I make the
> tool
>> easily?
> Michael Kaczmar
> _______________________________________________________
> NAPA and MACS as well as SNAP-ON should carry the right tools for that type
> of removal of chrome
> gordon

Be sure you get the right tool. There is a tool designed to remove the trim
from around windshields that will not help you on most body trim.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #157
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