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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:23 -0400 (EDT) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #157 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Wed, 12 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 157 In This Issue: (Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense Re: (Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense Re: [61-79-list]ENGINE PAINT Re: Freon rear gas tank Re: Freon Re: Freon Re: Freon- and POR-15 Re: Freon Re: Freon Re: Freon- and POR-15 Re: Freon- and POR-15 Re: [61-79-list]ENGINE PAINT 390 mounts/engine paint Electric fuel pump Re: 390 engine mounts Re: Electric fuel pump Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts Re: [Body work in Colorado] 62 Unibody Re: 390 mounts/engine paint Re: Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts Replacing U-joints [61-79-list]RE: Replacing U-joints ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TBeeee aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:58:10 EDT Subject: (Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense That adage is true most of the time, but let me tell you about another one: penny wise and pound foolish! Sometimes that one grabs you right in the back side. FTE content: I performed an oil change on the 66 yesterday as it just turned it's first 1,000 miles since the rebuild. So far so good! Stock Man http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee > > Of course buying the tool would make it easier, but a dollar saved is a > dollar earned right? > ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" Subject: Re: (Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:04:30 -0500 I changed the oil in my 390 5 miles after the rebuild, then again 300 miles later. Some things are worth spending the money on, like the Mobil 1 synthetic I use (after breaking it in on regular oil of course). [sarcasm] Things never go off topic here [/sarcasm] ... but that's ok :) ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: TBeeee aol.com To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 8:58 PM Subject: [61-79-list] (Was Re: pulling trim) Now just Nonsense That adage is true most of the time, but let me tell you about another one: penny wise and pound foolish! Sometimes that one grabs you right in the back side. FTE content: I performed an oil change on the 66 yesterday as it just turned it's first 1,000 miles since the rebuild. So far so good! Stock Man http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com/tbeeee > > Of course buying the tool would make it easier, but a dollar saved is a > dollar earned right? ------------------------------ From: Clemstang1 aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:19:09 EDT Subject: Re: [61-79-list]ENGINE PAINT Have use on most of my engines just PPG Acrylic Enamel out of a paint gun. Works very well, little discoloration around the exhaust ports and stays on the block very well after multiple cleanings (usually every Friday night). Usually will just come clean with soap and water or a mild detergent. Last block I painted last well up to 5 years till I popped the motor (little too much N20). After 3 vatting of the heads and block there was still was paint on them. The only thing that I noticed with using the paint is you don't want to put it on to heavy or there will be some small problems with flaking. I've just put the paint on the bare metal and had no problems with it sticking as long as the engine was cleaned good. Last engine did use a PPG self etching primer before painting (helped smooth out the imperfections in the block). Also used just sprayable clear coat on the intake works really well too.(like to be able to keep the ole engine clean).Been playing with a sprayable header coating lately too......# months on this motor and no discoloration yet (have to wait and see) Just some of my experances............. Jeff 73 F-150 SB (pro-street) 540 79 F-150 LB(Lariat) 460 89 LX Mustang 302 (in the works!!!!!!!!) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:26:15 -0400 From: Ted Wnorowski Subject: Re: Freon At 10:58 AM 7/12/00 -0700, you wrote: > > Any hydrocarbon replacement freon is the kind that can go BOOM. > > > > > > Terry Weaver > > > 78 350 srw > > > ========================================= > > from what i have understood is even the old R12 can burn that > > was 1 way > > they used to check for leaks with a propane torch > > gordon > > > >Yes I've seen freon leak detectors that worked that way. The flame changes >colors. Gotta be real careful burning freon though. The byproduct of freon >combustion is a nerve gas. I think phosgene. > >Tom H. In High School we used a Halide torch. It was a propane torch with a special burner and a rubber hose attached. When the end of the hose would get close to a leak it would turn bluish-green. I don't know about the gas, but freon and water creates flouric acid. One reason to pull a "complete" vacuum. Our teacher always told us. If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form. Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH mailto:theodore ford-trucks.com ' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed ' 63 F-100 parts truck ' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:26:06 -0500 From: Tammy & Robert Dolan Subject: rear gas tank I am trying to locate a rear tank for my 73 f250 2wd swb crewcab. The truck never had a rear tank, but a while back i remember someone talking about installing a tank from some other make? Anyone have any good suggestions? Robert Bismarck ND ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:33:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Scott Hall Subject: Re: Freon On Wed, 12 Jul 2000, Ted Wnorowski wrote: > If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to > rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He > claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs > QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form. dear god. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:35:59 -0400 From: Ted Wnorowski Subject: Re: Freon At 11:33 PM 7/12/00 -0400, you wrote: >On Wed, 12 Jul 2000, Ted Wnorowski wrote: > > > If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to > > rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He > > claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs > > QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form. > >dear god. That was about the same response the class gave him !!! : ) Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH mailto:theodore ford-trucks.com ' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed ' 63 F-100 parts truck ' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed ------------------------------ From: Natp244 cs.com Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:37:10 EDT Subject: Re: Freon- and POR-15 In a message dated 7/12/00 10:26:51 PM Central Daylight Time, theodore ford-trucks.com writes: << Our teacher always told us. If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form. >> And a little while before that, Stockman wrote (on another subject): "That adage is true most of the time, but let me tell you about another one: penny wise and pound foolish! Sometimes that one grabs you right in the back side" Hmmmm.. I think if I ever need AC service I will take both of these to heart and hire it done! Might be costly but it sure beats the alternative! And just to include something relevant- what exactly is POR 15, how is it applied, and where can it be purchased? is it anything like Eastwood's Chassis black? I keep hearing about it and am about to paint the frame of my 64- thought I might want to check it out before I proceed. Thanks Nate ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 23:38:08 -0400 (EDT) From: Scott Hall Subject: Re: Freon On Wed, 12 Jul 2000, Ted Wnorowski wrote: > > > If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to > > > rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He > > > claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs > > > QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form. > > > >dear god. > > That was about the same response the class gave him !!! : ) and no one EVER messed with that teacher! EVER!!! ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" Subject: Re: Freon Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 22:35:27 -0500 My thoughts exactly! ---Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Hall To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.comSent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 10:33 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Freon On Wed, 12 Jul 2000, Ted Wnorowski wrote: > If you were ever sprayed in the eyes in the field and didn't have water to > rinse, if you had to, urinate in the persons eyes to wash it out. He > claimed the moisture in your eyes and the freon would melt your eyeballs > QUICK. It was better to pee in them than let the acid form. dear god. ------------------------------ From: SHill48337 aol.comDate: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 01:05:00 EDT Subject: Re: Freon- and POR-15 In a message dated 7/12/00 8:39:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Natp244 cs.comwrites: << And just to include something relevant- what exactly is POR 15, how is it applied, and where can it be purchased? is it anything like Eastwood's Chassis black? I keep hearing about it and am about to paint the frame of my 64- thought I might want to check it out before I proceed. Thanks >> No, POR-15 is not the same as what Eastwood sells (POR 14 is tremendously better if you ask me). If you use your search engine and search on POR 15 you will get the home page and can read up on it and order if you like. Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 ------------------------------ From: "davidl" Subject: Re: Freon- and POR-15 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 01:31:51 -0500 por 15 link one of many http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.por15cr.com/ Dave 61 donor unibody 8foot 62 unibody in the stages of trying to figure out what to do with it 62 almost like new and soon to be mine this week unibody 292 RED 62 parts donor unibody 77 e350 motor home 460 what else 78 f250 4x4 429 83 f250 4x4 just a 302 now dana 50 front 35 tires 4" sup 4"body 85 f250 4x4 6.9 4sp nothing new but lots of fun -----Original Message----- From: SHill48337 aol.com To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>Date: Thursday, July 13, 2000 12:06 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Freon- and POR-15 >In a message dated 7/12/00 8:39:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Natp244 cs.com>writes: > ><< > And just to include something relevant- what exactly is POR 15, how is it > applied, and where can it be purchased? is it anything like Eastwood's > Chassis black? I keep hearing about it and am about to paint the frame of my > 64- thought I might want to check it out before I proceed. Thanks >> > >No, POR-15 is not the same as what Eastwood sells (POR 14 is tremendously >better if you ask me). If you use your search engine and search on POR 15 >you will get the home page and can read up on it and order if you like. >Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460 >========================================================== >To unsubscribe: >http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "davidl" Subject: Re: [61-79-list]ENGINE PAINT Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 01:37:58 -0500 http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.por15cr.com/catalog/enamel.html Engine paint Dave 61 donor unibody 8foot 62 unibody in the stages of trying to figure out what to do with it 62 mine this week unibody 292 RED 62 parts donor unibody 77 e350 motor home 460 what else 78 f250 4x4 429 83 f250 4x4 just a 302 now dana 50 front 35 tires 4" sup 4"body 85 f250 4x4 6.9 4sp nothing new but lots of fun - ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:39:00 -0500 From: Larry Schmiedekamp Subject: 390 mounts/engine paint I'm in digest mode and was scaning through the replies to the motor mounts. No one mention anything about a Left and Right side mount. I just bought a pair for my 74 350 2wd at advance auto and his computer showed a L & R two different part number and two different prices. (8.00 & 7.00). I haven't try to put them on Should I do some more research or was I informed correctly? Engine paint. Does the por 15 engine paint require baking? Reason I ask is I ran across some high temp. (1200 degrees) spray can at the local automotive paint shop. WOW! Try to spray it on the engine and it acted like water. Ran every where's. Now read the instruction.... Requires baking for 24 hrs. Out of my league.. Food for thought. Does por 15 require baking? Sorry about the rambling.. Larry ------------------------------ From: David.R.John deluxe.comDate: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:27:06 -0500 Subject: Electric fuel pump Hey all, I know we have had threads on some of this in the past but I would appreciate you alls wisdom to my specific questions. This is in regards to my 78 F250 4x4 460 with an Edelbrock performer intake and Edelbrock 4bb 750cfm carb. 1) If I have dual tanks should I put the electric pump right after the switch? 2) Do you have to get a regulator to control the pressure? Where does it go? 3) Any recomendations on what to get? 4) Do they come in kits that have the pump, regulator, and oil pressure cutoff switch? 5) How much will all of this cost? 6) Any one know where I can get the clear plastic fuel filters? Thanks in advance for all of the info. David John 78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460 C6 Camper Special ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD aol.comDate: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 11:59:16 EDT Subject: Re: 390 engine mounts In a message dated 7/11/00 5:56:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time, umberto97 yahoo.com writes:<< The mounts on the existing engine are threaded while the new ones simply have an unthreaded nipple. >> I think thats just a rubber coating over the bolt. Just peel it off, but do it before you set the motor in, because its a pain to do after the motor is in. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: Re: Electric fuel pump Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:05:31 -0700 1) If I have dual tanks should I put the electric pump right after the switch? Pumps push much better than the pull. IMHO, the location you suggest would be best. 2) Do you have to get a regulator to control the pressure? Where does it go? In your case, you will probably want/need a high volume pump. I would recommend a regulator in this case. Typically they are installed just before the carburetor (easier to adjust that way) 3) Any recomendations on what to get? I'd take a look at Holley and Edelbrock. I'm sure others have their favorites. 4) Do they come in kits that have the pump, regulator, and oil pressure cutoff switch? Not that I'm aware of. The oil pressure switch varies from engine to engine and that would require the manufacturer to produce many different kit part numbers... 5) How much will all of this cost? Haven't priced this stuff in awhile, but a good pump will probably run close to $100, a regulator about $50 and the switch I don't know. I'd say you'll be spending in the neighborhood of 2 bills before you're done. 6) Any one know where I can get the clear plastic fuel filters? Fram P/N G12. About $3. Large clear plastic filter with 3/8" hose fittings. ------------------------------ From: "Pat" Subject: Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:04:56 -0700 Last night I was out taking the trim off the Lariat box (Live prawns in salt water were carried in it and the water slopped around in the box - Kaput) and I couldn't figure out how to take the the small trim that outlines the wheel wells of the box off. Any help on this would be much appreciated as I'd like to save it for someone that may need it down the road.. Much thanks to Steve and the Rockette, Gordon and Jason for the tips on dealing with my "Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts" trials and tribulations. Right when I was wondering whether to use grade 8 there's the answer that been tried, as were the rest of the ideas. ------------------------------ Date: 13 Jul 00 11:55:05 MDT From: Brent Dickerson Subject: Re: [Body work in Colorado] I know someone who does the work out of his garage in the evenings (Colorado Springs). Slower than a professional shop but he is cheaper and does decent work. Let me know if you're interested. brent "Steve and Fran" > I'd like to have some rust cut out and get a paint job on my '78. I'm not > lookin' to spend a fortune, just keep the truck looking respectable. Any > suggestions (in Colorado, preferably close to Colorado Springs). > > Steve Smith > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe: > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: Natp244 cs.comDate: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 15:36:57 EDT Subject: 62 Unibody Hello to all- A gentleman I know is selling a 1962 Unibody, 223 I-6. I am interested in the truck and need some unibody-specific advice before I go to look at it. Are there any areas on these trucks that are particualrly prone to rust? Any special things I should look for (i.e.- scarce parts missing, body alignent, etc.?) I have 2 project trucks going right now and really don't NEED another, but this is a friendship deal of sorts (real cheap) and I'm sure its worth the asking price. My reservation about it is that with two trucks going now I do not want to bite off more than I can chew and end up with a truck I can do nothing with. Any advice is helpful and appreciated. Thanks. Nate ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" Subject: Re: 390 mounts/engine paint Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 16:02:36 -0700 > Engine paint. Does the por 15 engine paint require baking? > Larry =========================================NO it does not need to be baked on except from the engine heat is all gordon ------------------------------ From: "G & J Boling" Subject: Re: Frame rivets and spring mounting bolts Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:33:51 -0700 I couldn't figure out how to take the the small trim that > outlines the wheel wells of the box off. Any help on this would be much > appreciated as I'd like to save it for someone that may need it down the > road.. ========================================i am not sure what type of trim it is but you could take a screwdriver inserted into the screw slot then smack it with a hammer to break it loose if that dont work maybe try and use a byrnzamatic torch to heat around it then try removing the fasteners i do this all the time on headlight trim gordon ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:58:30 -0400 From: "Don Haring, Jr." Subject: Replacing U-joints One of the U-joints on my Club Wagon has really started to howl. I've never replaced U-joints before, and even though I have a shop manual, I wanted to get opinions on how difficult the job will be. The manual shows a C-clamp tool for pressing the bearings in and out. Is there an acceptable substitute, or would it just be easier to pull the driveshaft and take it into a shop to have them install the U-joints? I'm mechanically competant, just never done it before. BTW, the van failed inspection today because of the joints, and bad kingpins, which means I'll have to take the front axle out again and have it done right this time. :( As you might remember, my van was towed the last time the axle was out, so I'll clear space down in my garage and work on it hidden it from the "Man". haha :) Thanks, don ------------------------------ From: "Ross" Subject: [61-79-list]RE: Replacing U-joints Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 14:28:38 -0800 if you can pull the driveshaft it is easier to use a vise than a C-clamp use one socket just smaller that the end of the U-joint on one side, and a socket just larger that the U-joint on the other side. if you are lucky it will just press right out ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Haring, Jr." To: ford-trucks.com>Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 13:58 Subject: [61-79-list] Replacing U-joints > One of the U-joints on my Club Wagon has really started to howl. I've never > replaced U-joints before, and even though I have a shop manual, I wanted to > get opinions on how difficult the job will be. The manual shows a C-clamp > tool for pressing the bearings in and out. Is there an acceptable > substitute, or would it just be easier to pull the driveshaft and take it > into a shop to have them install the U-joints? I'm mechanically competant, > just never done it before. > > BTW, the van failed inspection today because of the joints, and bad > kingpins, which means I'll have to take the front axle out again and have > it done right this time. :( As you might remember, my van was towed the > last time the axle was out, so I'll clear space down in my garage and work > on it hidden it from the "Man". haha :) > > Thanks, > don > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe: > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:04 -0500 Subject: Re: [61-79-list]tailgate removal From: John LaGrone >> just like some ads now advising to remove your tailgate for better mpg >> not really >> most of the strength is in the rear to support the sides so when you take >> it off after ahile you end uf with friendly rear sides waving at everyone > > > Actually I haven't seen one of those in years. I think there's an article on > the FTE site explaining that anythign built after about 86 or so has the > aerodynamics > of the bed figured in and removing the tailgate might actually hurt mileage So, I'm behind on my e-mail. Can you say vacation? 238 FTE messages. Woowoo, FTE overload. NOT!!! I had my tailgate off for about 6 months or so last year while I refinished it. I could not tell one iota of difference in the gas mileage. If I wanted an economy car, I'd buy a little two seat rice burner. Been there, done that, never to go that way again. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:05 -0500 Subject: tailgate chrome From: John LaGrone While junkyard hopping a couple of weeks ago (now that is quality vacation time) I stumbled across a piece of chrome for my tailgate. Luckily I didn't bend it. Actually it was on a super cab XLT. Amazingly, the tailgate was beat up in such a manner that no one wanted it, but the insert I wanted was OK. The truck had been backed into posts with the gate down and had nice little half moons in a couple of places along the top. Anyway, I paid $15 for the center insert that says "FORD". It runs well over $100 in LMC. Just what I was looking for to finish off the rear of Henry. When I get it on, I will post pictures (promises, promises) so that you can see what van tail light trim looks like with this insert. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:05 -0500 Subject: Re: Old vs New Trucks From: John LaGrone on 7/8/2000 11:48 AM, D. DiMartino at grunon yahoo.com wrote:> do you think it would sell? > something like an old power wagon?? totally utilitarian? i've > had too much coffee this morning... Sounds kind of like a military Hummer to me. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Custom Cab From: John LaGrone on 7/10/2000 1:03 PM, dave Prasse at burgess4 gte.net wrote:> Hi Phil, > > My '66 2wd F250 , base truck , no options > has a padded dash. > My '65 2wd Custom cab and my '66 4x4 > custom cab , neither have the padded dash > > dave Prasse Hey, guys. Padded dashes were mandated by the feds beginning January 1, 1967, along with some other safety equipment. Ford has always been known as a safety minded company and probably had some earlier trucks with padded dashes. These safety features were phased in over several years and started with the lightest duty models first. In the same model years you may find an F100 with the padded dash, but not an F350, as an example. Other components of this safety law included four way flashers, side marker lights, parking lights that illuminate with the head lights, energy absorbing steering columns, dual circuit brake systems, and that's all I can think of right now. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Freon From: John LaGrone on 7/10/2000 11:21 PM, rich at richth exis.net wrote:> I know some of the R12 > replacements or "mixes" used to be flamable. Not sure if that has changed > by now or not. When I researched about 6 months ago, most of the R12 replacements were largely propane. I went to the EPA site and read articles on every alternative for R12. None perform as well as R12 in automotive systems. Everyone of them, including R134a, is a temporary fix as they will all be phased out over the next 10 to 20 years as "better" refrigerants are invented. Pshaw! Anyway, I was not satisfied with the chemical components of any of the R12 alternatives and felt that R134a would not cool satisfactorily in my system the way I drive (mostly city, little freeway). I have since been told that there is a new expansion tube that is spring loaded and changes size to improve poor performance at idle by converted R134a systems. It is over 100 degrees right now here in central Texas. Both of my R12 systems have worked well today. R12 does not deplete the ozone layer, but Dupont's patent did expire and they weren't going to make any more royalty money from it. By all rights, we should still be able to buy R12 here in the States like everyone else can and it should cost us about 25¢ a pound. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Air vs Hyd brakes From: John LaGrone on 7/11/2000 1:24 PM, SevnD2 aol.com at SevnD2aol.com wrote:> Yes, the air brake systems on the tractor and trailers on the road today need > air pressure to release the brakes to move. These are Westinghouse brakes, invented by George Westinghouse to be used on trains. Before this, air pressure was used to apply the brakes. It took a horrific train crash to convince the industry that George was right and air pressure should be used to release the brakes. And now you know...the rest of the story. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500 Subject: Re: replacement freon From: John LaGrone on 7/11/2000 3:10 PM, DWeaver232 aol.com at DWeaver232aol.com wrote:> How many of you that > have electric fuel pumps have an inertia switch to turn the pump off in case > of accident? I do. Of course it is on my wife's Towncar. I have rescued several EFI powered vehicles by knowing to look for the inertia switch. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:06 -0500 Subject: Re: pulling trim From: John LaGrone on 7/12/2000 8:45 PM, Garrett Nelson at garrettnelson writeme.com wrote:> There is a tool but I removed my trim without one. The trim is held on with > plastic clips which are bolted onto the body panels. The trim on the box and > the hood is easy, because you can reach the nuts on the backside. Remove them > and the trim comes right off. For the other trim, I very carefully pried an > edge of the trim away from the body with a screwdriver, then used a bright > light to see where the clips were. If you can see them, you can rotate them > with a narrow screwdriver or a similar tool. Just be careful and take your > time. > > Of course buying the tool would make it easier, but a dollar saved is a dollar > earned right? Also, if you can get both ends loose, you should be able to slide the trim down the body panel. When the clip gets to the right place, it should just come off. They usually leave the retaining edge slotted near one end or the other (but not always). Often you can't recognize the trick until the trim is off in your hands. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Freon- and POR-15 From: John LaGrone on 7/12/2000 10:37 PM, Natp244 cs.com at Natp244cs.com wrote:> Hmmmm.. I think if I ever need AC service I will take both of these to heart > and hire it done! Might be costly but it sure beats the alternative! Before the "ban" on R12 I used to do all of my own air conditioning work. I have all of the gauges (and know how to read them), an evacuation pump made from an old refrigerator compressor, and odds and ends of connectors etc. Rubber o-rings are cheap and you can buy hoses, clamps, condensers, evaporators, you name it for roughly half of what you will pay for them if a shop installs them. With the right tools and the patience to learn the skills, all you have to get from the shop is the $40 labor charge and whatever Freon it takes. I did a $900 job on the Towncar last year for under $400, including Freon. I actually spent close to $500, but I wasted $100 after being lied to twice. Oh yeah...always wear goggles when working around an air conditioner or a running engine. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 17:31:07 -0500 Subject: Re: pulling trim From: John LaGrone on 7/12/2000 11:19 PM, G & J Boling at flash1 alltel.net wrote:> Somebody told me there is a tool to get behind the molding and pop it >> free, anybody know how to do it/where to get the tool? Can I make the > tool >> easily? > Michael Kaczmar > _______________________________________________________ > NAPA and MACS as well as SNAP-ON should carry the right tools for that type > of removal of chrome > gordon Be sure you get the right tool. There is a tool designed to remove the trim from around windshields that will not help you on most body trim. -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #157 *********************************** <><><><><><> Serious Help Finding That Part! <><><><><><> Ford Truck Enthusiasts now has "Ford Products Interchange" manuals in its online store. Two editions: 1950-1965 and 1963-1974. Cross references thousands of Ford parts. http://www.motorhaven.com/ ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 61-79-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. 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