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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Thu, 06 Jul 2000 20:18:44 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 20:18:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #149
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Wed, 05 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 149

In This Issue:
Re: Tailgate stuck
Tunin' a FE
Re: Tailgate stuck
Re: Tailgate stuck
Unsubscribe 61-79-list
Bashin' is Fun?
Re: Need ID
Duraspark adjustable timing completed
Re: Tailgate stuck
Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels
the long of it
web links
Re: 352 Blown Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Re: Bashin' is Fun?
Re: Need ID
bed liner and trailer brakes question
Does more horsepower result in better gas mileage?
Re: Bashin' is Fun?
Re: bed liner and trailer brakes question
American Independence
fan removal
Re: Does more horsepower result in better gas mileage?
Drop spindles
Get together in Laughlin
Re: Drop spindles
Re: fan removal
fan removal
Re: Get together in Laughlin
Re: web links
Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels
Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels
Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Tailgate stuck
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 00:21:40 -0400

Lift up the handle & look under the ends.Mine did that & I had to replace
the plastic clip deal that holds the rod to the handle that actuates the
latches on each side of the tailgate. Got some from the Ford Dealer. Put it
on & it has worked fine since. When you get it open,be sure to keep the
latches well oiled.They have a tendancy to get dirt in them & will not work
properly. Hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steve and Fran offspringnet.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 7:19 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Tailgate stuck


>Everytime I post a question, the list goes down, and I don't get my answer
>because by the time the list is up again, everyone's forgot the
>topics...here goes:
>
>I have a '78 F250 and the tailgate's stuck. Operating the handle doesn't
>work. Does anyone know how to fix it?
>
>Steve Smith
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe:
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 21:50:15 -0700
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Tunin' a FE

>>Check out what I have done so far at www.1966ford.com


> By checking your site out it seems we are running very similar FEs.
Unilite,Edelbrock intake,mild Melling cam etc.
I personally think I need more cam in mine.

>>>I am planning on putting on headers next. Who makes good ones for a
390?

> I hve Heddmans on mine and they seem like a decent product for the
$140
price.

>>>I see Edelbrock makes some spiffy aluminum heads for $1200 a
pair... how much power would they get me?

>From what I have read on this list,not much,

>>>Would they increase compression much?
> I don't know,but as a owner of a 10.5 to 1 FE I would not go over
9.5.
> I would get the headers first and then tune tune tune.Different jets,
>P-valves,more total advance etc.Tuning is the secret

>>Know of any good websites that go into tuning Holley carbs?

No,I switched to a Carter AFB.There are a couple of good books available
for Holleys tho. Try Summit or Amazon.

>>And did you run into any clearance problems at all with your headers?

I have a 76 f250 4x4 and other than the collector being a little close
to my front driveline,they fit nice.Hedmans seem to be a great value,but
I don't think they are a great header.

>>What is your timing set at?
Mine is set at 12 degrees, I haven't really played with it much.
---Garrett www.1966ford.com

8-12 is a good range.Dig out the instructions for the Uni-Lite and
adjust the TOTAL advance.That is where the real gains are made.
You will need a adjustable timing light to get it right.
Make only one change at a time and document your changes and original
settings.

------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tailgate stuck
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 00:53:10 -0400

> I have a '78 F250 and the tailgate's stuck. Operating the
> handle doesn't work. Does anyone know how to fix it?

Yeop ...
first thing to do is to take a strong, thin screwdriver and push the
latches in toward the center of the tailgate so you can get it open.

Then ...
the latches should have mounting bolts holding them in the tailgate.
once these bolts are taken out, the latch mechanism will slide out
of the tailgate somewhat, or will come out all the way if the actuating
rod is rusted off or the plastic grommet has deteriorated and fell out
of the handle.
Check both sides ... the most common problem is that the plastic
grommets at the handle break away, and the release rod falls loose
so that yanking the handle just lifts it up and doesnt pull the latches
to open the tailgate.
The handle comes out of the tailgate by unbolting the bolts in the
interior (of the box, but exterior of the gate itself) center of the
tailgate. You probably don't need to remove it to put the grommets
and actuating rods back in, but it might make things easier ... and it
will let you WD-40 the heck out of the friction points on the handle.



------------------------------

From: "Chris Samuel" email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Tailgate stuck
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:20:34 -0700


-> From: "Steve and Fran" offspringnet.net>
-> Subject: Tailgate stuck
-> Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:05:04 -0600
->
-> Everytime I post a question, the list goes down, and I don't get
-> my answer
-> because by the time the list is up again, everyone's forgot the
-> topics...here goes:
->
-> I have a '78 F250 and the tailgate's stuck. Operating the handle doesn't
-> work. Does anyone know how to fix it?
->
-> Steve Smith

In my case the mechanism was in good shape, but the welded in nuts that the
factory used had broken the welds and was loose on one side. This allowed
the whole catch mechanism to move and not just the catch pawl. In order to
open the tail gate I was forced to use 2 large screwdrivers and pry the pawl
back while SWMBO held the latch to release the opposite side.
To repair this you must reweld the nuts in position.
Muel



------------------------------

From: "Jerry Godsey" prodigy.net>
Subject: Unsubscribe 61-79-list
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:39:32 -0700

Unsubscribe 61-79-list


------------------------------

From: "Gary Perry" fwi.com>
Subject: Bashin' is Fun?
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 01:15:01 -0500

Darrell and "Tweety", if you think taking your truck out and beating the
H*** out of it
after spending big $ and time on repair just to do it all again is
fun......I must be living
wrong. Your brother's Ranger.........$20,ooo truck, now needing $300.oo in
parts alone,
yep, must be fun. I'ld stick to the sand rails or whatever they call'em for
dune hopping.
"G"
G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN
54 Chevy 2-ton (driver)
50 Chevy COE (project)
MM Jet Star 3 Super (tractor)


------------------------------

From: "George Litton" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need ID
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 23:53:29 PDT

Az,

Here is the best I could do without all my reference matl. handy:

BLOCK: 1973 351C APRIL 17,1973

HEADS: 1975 351M-400. SAME AS 351C-2V, BUT FLAME HARDENED SEATS. OK FOR
UNLEADED GAS.

RODS: '70-'73 351C, EXCEPT BOSS

INTAKE: '70-'71 351C-4V VIN "M". 70- 300 H.P., 71- 285 H.P.

CRANK: THIS IS WHERE I AM LACKING GOOD BOOKS, BUT I THINK IT IS A 400M.
351C CASTING IS "4M".

HOPE THIS HELPS.

George Litton in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho

>From: "Azie L. Magnusson" HiWAAY.net>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: [61-79-list] Need ID
>Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 14:10:34 -0500
>
>
>OK now!! I've been out in my shed rumaging thru something I'm not the
>least bit familiar with and need your help ID'ing some "stuff". I know it
>is small block and when I got it I was told it was 351C, but the heads are
>'75 and I thought that was after the demise of the C. None of this "stuff"
>is in my FORD Hi Performance book..
>
>Heads - D5AE A2A
>
>Intake - D0AE 9425 L
>
>Block - D2AE CA Date cast in 3D17
>
>Crankahaft - 4MA Standard and looks good..Haven't yet mic'ed it, but looks
>AOK.
>
>Rods have D0AE A on them
>
>Pistons have 351C cast in them near the wristpin. They look like really
>low compression and have what I'd call a half valve relief on opposite
>edges of the outer circumference..
>
>TIA folks
>
>Azie Magnusson
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe:
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>

________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 07:03:43 -0400
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Duraspark adjustable timing completed

Hey all

Just a quick note on the adjustable timing. Finished it up last night,
works great. I now get 15 degrees adjustable base timing. I had heard it
was 10, but it worked out to 15 for me.

Module your looking for is OEM DY297, Neihoff FF407 or KEM E314 (the
one I used, very expensive 101$ with decent discount). I tried a
cheaper wells module (P.N. F110, 24$), but it had three wires on the
third plug and when I first installed it, the truck ran like garbage,
but timing had only changed 2 degrees (10-12). At 12 degrees, it should
have run pretty close to how it was running with stock ign box.

3rd lug should have 2 wires (black and yellow) coming off it. You hook
this up to a 10K pot, using the connections that give you 10K when the
pot is turned counterclockwise and very high resist when turned
clockwise. Pot is not linear, so I get about 5 degrees at 7, O'clock, 6
degrees at 12, O'clock, 15 degrees at 9, O'clock and 20 degrees at 5,
O'clock.

One nice feature is I can crank the timing up to 20 on cold start
which makes it idle 1000 times better upon initial start. I have not
driven it yet, but will soon. Web page on this and the 2 bbl projection
install to follow in Aug :-).

OX

------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 12:16:10 GMT
Subject: Re: Tailgate stuck

>I have a '78 F250 and the tailgate's stuck. Operating the handle doesn't
>work. Does anyone know how to fix it?
>


You've gotten some great answers about how to fix it .. pulling it apart and
lubing it will probably work for the most part.

If there is a broken clip and its a plastic one, you don't need to replace it
with another plastic one. Mine was broken when I got the truck with a replacement
one in the glovebox already. Rather than put that in we had an assortment of
metal clips like that laying around, I grabbed one that was a little snug, but
that was almost 6 years ago and I haven't broken it yet.

You should be able to pick up an assortment of those clips from the HELP section
of your favorite parts store.

Just my $.02
wish



96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "Desanto, Phillip" Cinergy.com>
Subject: Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 09:09:52 -0400

From: "Garrett Nelson" writeme.com>
Subject: Does anyone make aftermarket interior door panels for my truck?
I want to buy some, or if I can't find any I will make them.
Anybody seen anything? Thanks, Garrett
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Garrett, besides the already mentioned sources, you CAN make them very
easily. You can buy pleated upholstery material and cut it to fit inside
your Custom Cab door trim. Just punch holes for the window and door lever
shafts. I found a nice 1" pleated vinyl seat in a wrecked car and cut what I
needed from the seat back. Worked like a charm. Looks for all the world like
it grew there, and it was free! Good luck, Phil (64 F-100 Custom Cab)












------------------------------

From: "Lyndell Smith" fairburn.com>
Subject: the long of it
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:08:25 -0400


would there be a problem putting a 71 body on a 73 frame? they both are long
beds.

I was wondering if the frames were similar or if I need to make a lot of
changes..


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/scb3552/

thank in advance smitty



------------------------------

From: "Lyndell Smith" fairburn.com>
Subject: web links
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:16:02 -0400



I put several link to other websites on my web page and I don't want to
offend anyone so let me know if you them removed and I will remove them.. I
tried to keep it to FORDS.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/scb3552/


------------------------------

From: "Deacon" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 352 Blown Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 07:47:25 -0700



From: "Bill Templeton"

> only suspect the previous owner made a try at removing the manifold.
The
> right exhaust manifold had been removed by previous owner and two of
the
> upper studs were drilled out and replaced with bolts. It is
interesting in
> the job was done through the fender inner pan. Someone had cut the
inner pan
> and replaced the cut-out with a neat cover. -- This is still an option
in
> replacing the left exhaust manifold gasket. However, even with an
access
> hole through the inner pan it is still almost impossible to get at the
> threaded end of bolts to soak or heat.

I hope I'm not coming off like a jerk on this because I mean no
disrespect. If I give an opinion on a project that appears negative,
please don't take it personal. I try to use diplomacy when I disagree
but I'm not all that good at it. Is the goal here to stop an exhaust
leak? If it is then I can't see pulling the heads making things easier.
Pulling the heads is a lot of work. I think It'd be easier to take a
fender off to get access to the exhaust manifold than pull the intake
off an FE. OK, maybe not. An FE intake is big and heavy and takes 2
people or a engine lift to pull off and put back on. Some people have
done it alone so it can be done, but if things go wrong it could go way
wrong.
Making access doors in the wheel wells (I know this isn't their
official name but it's what I've always called them) is what I do when I
need to. At times I think design engineers and tooling are in cahoots.
Who needs a special tool when you have a cutting disk. ;]
Looking at the 360 in my '76 F350 I don't think I can get a socket
on the bottom row of head bolts without removing the exhaust manifold.
My manifolds use bolts. I think if I disconnect a motor mount I could
use a bottle jack to twist and lift the engine giving a little angle at
the manifold bolts.

> The threads are eroded away, there isn't much thread remaining.

My bad. I was thinking length. Just a little FYI, my 360 uses bolts
there too.

> IF those heads come off it would be prudent to have a look at the
valves and
> seats. I hear you on the "old guys lapped valves" (I am one). Doesn't
a
> valve grind remove more material than a lap?

At the time I was giving my views on this, I took multi-thoughts and
placed them in random order. Sorry! :}
The valve face and the valve seat are ground at a 44 degree angle
and cylindrical to it's center axis. If these angles are correct with no
damage to the face or seat then it will seal. The valve also needs to
have a min. margin width. Without this margin width the end of the valve
will have an edge like a knife. Lets say there was damage to the matting
area of the valve face and seat by a sparkplug electrode braking off and
lodging between them. If the damage is removed by lapping then the angle
of the grind can be slightly changed, there by removing this margin
which is only 1 in. on an exhaust valve and 14 in. on the intake. I
on the other hand, like you, come from the old school and lap valves if
the heads come off because we always did it that way and it's never
caused a problem. ;]

> >Do you always go for the over kill? You need to chill a little
> Exhaust pipe flat flange is slightly pitted and could stand facing. It
could
> very well be the manifold's head face is also eroded is the area of
gasket
> leak. If could very well be that the manifold will need to be
replaced.

Sorry Bill but this was my lame attempt at humor. I'm King of the
over killers! 8] It's your truck, your time and your money. Any way you
choose, I hope works out for you.

Later!

Deacon

deconblu ford-trucks.com
deconblu earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 12:07:31 EDT
Subject: Re: Bashin' is Fun?

In a message dated 7/5/00 11:35:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, glperry fwi.com
writes:

<< Darrell and "Tweety", if you think taking your truck out and beating the
H*** out of it
after spending big $ and time on repair just to do it all again is
fun......I must be living
wrong. Your brother's Ranger.........$20,ooo truck, now needing $300.oo in
parts alone,
yep, must be fun. I'ld stick to the sand rails or whatever they call'em for
dune hopping. >>

I think you dont quite understand whats goin on here. Aside from the Ranger,
we are using 25 yr old trucks that have been used AS trucks for a long time.
Stuff is gonna break. That motor mount? Its the original one Ford put on.
Dads front driveshaft? A homemade job he put together about 8 yrs ago
without the aid of even an arc welder. Thats right, GAS welded. Been on its
way out for a long time. As far as the Ranger goes, My bro bought it
specifically for the dunes, and hasnt had the time to do any sort of lift or
otherwise. This was at stock height that he had problems with. All of this
stuff we had happen was not at all surprising.

And besides, half the fun of owning a Ford truck is working on a Ford truck.
If I dont break it, when will I ever get to work on it?

Darrell and Tweety

------------------------------

From: "Dave Resch" sybase.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:39:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Need ID

Yo Azie:

> Heads - D5AE A2A

These are 75-up M-block cylinder heads. They are interchangeable w/ the 351C 2V
heads.

> Intake - D0AE 9425 L

All D0AE parts are for the 351C.

> Block - D2AE CA Date cast in 3D17

This is a 351C block w/ 4-bolt main saddles. (All 351C 4V blocks made after
1971 are 4-bolt mains.)

> Crankahaft - 4MA

This is a 351C crankshaft.

> Rods have D0AE A

These are 351C rods.

Dave R (M-block devotee)



------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: bed liner and trailer brakes question
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 10:31:05 -0700

Thanks to Tony Marino of this list, I am the new owner of a utility trailer
made from a '73-'79 LB bed and frame.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=359927377
Got it home this weekend and have a couple questions for those that might
know better:

Anyone know if a bedliner specified for a later model Ford ('80's) will fit
these older beds? The reason I ask is b/c a local wrecking yard has several
they say came off '80's LB Fords for $30 each and since I got the trailer
so cheap, I thought I'd fix it up a bit by throwing a liner in it and
letting Maaco or somebody shoot it.

The seller didn't know much about the trailer other than the fact he bought
it last year from the estate of the guy who built it (the wiring was never
finished, but it has BRAND NEW taillight lenses in it). I pulled off the
7.00x15 bias ply tires and bolted on a couple nice 235/75/15 6 ply Goodyear
Wranglers I got at the aforementioned junkyard for $30 (already mounted and
balanced on Ford wheels!).

The coupler assembly is interesting. It has what appears to be a small
master cylinder in it. The stock brakes are there and the hydraulic line is
plumbed into the unit. There is a small cable with a hook on the end in
addition to the safety chains. I assume this is to activate the brakes
should the trailer come loose from the tow vehicle.

There is also what appears to be a small shock-absorber looking thing inside
the coupler. A buddy of mine guesses that the trailer is equipped with
"surge brakes". Any ideas on this? If this is surge brakes, how do I know
if they are working correctly or not? It tows great as-is, but it would be
good to know...


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 14:35:20 -0400
From: David Wadson air.on.ca>
Subject: Does more horsepower result in better gas mileage?

After seeing numerous articles about the great horsepower gains you can
make by removing your engine fan and replacing it with electric fans on the
radiator I'm curious as to whether such a modification will result in
better gas mileage? Given the soaring prices, the cost of the fan(s) could
be quickly recouped.


David Wadson - wadsondair.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 14:33:50 -0400
From: David Wadson air.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Bashin' is Fun?

>And besides, half the fun of owning a Ford truck is working on a Ford truck.
>If I dont break it, when will I ever get to work on it?
>
>Darrell and Tweety


So Tweety must not be your only vehicle. I haven't minded working on this
4x4 of mine because I'm using the 2WD as my daily driver. Otherwise working
on a vehicle while you have to walk to the parts store everytime you need
something really sucks...


David Wadson - wadsondair.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into...
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: bed liner and trailer brakes question
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 13:53:02 -0500

Your trailer does have surge brakes. It works on the fact that your hitch is
not permanently affixed to the tongue and it will slide back a certain
amount. the hitch it attatched to a pushrod, which runs to the mc(master
cylinder). When the trailer is heavily loaded and you apply the brakes in
your truck, the momentum of the trailer pushes against the ball hitch, which
slides into the mc, activating the hydraulic brakes. I think you are right
about the cable. In the event the trailer comes loose from your truck, and
assuming you've clipped the cable to your truck, the brakes on the trailer
should be activated. I've never seen a break-away cable on a surge brake
set-up, but I haven't seen everything yet. How to tell if the system works?
Throw 1500 to 2000# in the trailer and drive. How easily does it stop? If
there is only a marginal difference with a load, they work. If it takes a
lot longer to stop, they need work.
Just my thoughts..
Jason Kendrick

----- Original Message -----
From: Southerland, Rich alldata.com>
To: <61-79-listfordtrucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 12:31 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] bed liner and trailer brakes question



> The coupler assembly is interesting. It has what appears to be a small
> master cylinder in it. The stock brakes are there and the hydraulic line
is
> plumbed into the unit. There is a small cable with a hook on the end in
> addition to the safety chains. I assume this is to activate the brakes
> should the trailer come loose from the tow vehicle.
>
> There is also what appears to be a small shock-absorber looking thing
inside
> the coupler. A buddy of mine guesses that the trailer is equipped with
> "surge brakes". Any ideas on this? If this is surge brakes, how do I
know
> if they are working correctly or not? It tows great as-is, but it would
be
> good to know...



------------------------------

From: "John H. Bryson, Jr." intrex.net>
Subject: American Independence
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:01:11 -0400

Thanks Azi for reminding us of the freedoms we enjoy and the terrible price that was paid.
John B.

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: fan removal
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:24:32 -0700




> After seeing numerous articles about the great horsepower gains you can
> make by removing your engine fan and replacing it with electric fans on
the
> radiator I'm curious as to whether such a modification will result in
> better gas mileage? what have I gotten myself into...
> Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
=======================================
far as i have ever known it only takes about 10 horses to drive the fan and
water pump i tried this deal years ago racing i gained 1 1/100 th of a
second in a 1/4 mile
it wasnt worth it
just like some ads now advising to remove your tailgate for better mpg
not really
most of the strength is in the rear to support the sides so when you take
it off after ahile you end uf with friendly rear sides waving at everyone
gordon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 12:22:57 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: Does more horsepower result in better gas mileage?

As one who switched to an electric fan, I can testify that there is
indeed an increase in acceleration. The engine revs more quickly. All
the evidence is anecdotal, however. I did not do a before-and-after
dyno test. It just "feels faster." I could have done a gas mileage
comparison more easily, that is if ever checked the mileage on my
truck. I can only use logic to conclude that with less drag on the
engine, gas mileage would be improved. I do not use my trucks as
fuel-efficient modes of transportation, but with thing$ going as they
are with ga$ price$, I find myself driving my Durango, Mustang, Unibody
and F250 somewhat less often and my Rabbit Convertible more often...(I
know...it's a girl's car...)

David Wadson wrote:
>
> After seeing numerous articles about the great horsepower gains you can
> make by removing your engine fan and replacing it with electric fans on the
> radiator I'm curious as to whether such a modification will result in
> better gas mileage? Given the soaring prices, the cost of the fan(s) could
> be quickly recouped.

------------------------------

From: "Howard, Randolph E" PSS.Boeing.com>
Subject: Drop spindles
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 14:00:40 -0700

Howdy,
Anyone know if there are drop spindles available for a 1973 F-100? Thanks.

Randy Howard

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:24:34 -0700
From: Keith Srb ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Get together in Laughlin

Well Darrell, I guess you and I must be the only two FTE'rs in the SW since
no one else has said anything else about getting together in or around
Laughlin.

I know that there is an F-100 show in Bull Head City sometime. I will try
and find out when that is. Maybe we could get a few people together for that.

Later
Keith Srb


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:16:34 -0700
From: Keith Srb ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Drop spindles

At 02:00 PM 07/06/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>Howdy,
>Anyone know if there are drop spindles available for a 1973 F-100? Thanks.
>
>Randy Howard


Truckin' Magazine has several vendors listed that sell dropped I-Beams.

Later
Keith Srb




------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:07:17 GMT
Subject: Re: fan removal

>far as i have ever known it only takes about 10 horses to drive the fan and

>water pump i tried this deal years ago racing i gained 1 1/100 th of a
>second in a 1/4 mile
>it wasnt worth it

Uhm, what were you racing, 10hp added to 500 won't make much difference, but
10hp added to 100 sure might ... also I thought 10hp translated to a shade more
than that in the quarter, depending on what you were running of course ...



>just like some ads now advising to remove your tailgate for better mpg
>not really
>most of the strength is in the rear to support the sides so when you take
>it off after ahile you end uf with friendly rear sides waving at everyone


Actually I haven't seen one of those in years. I think there's an article on
the FTE site explaining that anythign built after about 86 or so has the aerodynamics
of the bed figured in and removing the tailgate might actually hurt mileage
...

Besides if you're trying to make a living selling snake oil, you'll probably
say about anything to get it to catch on and get you the easy money ...

Just my $.02
wish



96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: fan removal
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:41:51 -0700



----------
> From: wish ford-trucks.net>
> To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: fan removal
> Date: Thursday, July 06, 2000 3:07 PM
>
> >far as i have ever known it only takes about 10 horses to drive the fan
and
>
> >water pump i tried this deal years ago racing i gained 1 1/100 th of a
> >second in a 1/4 mile
> >it wasnt worth it
>
> Uhm, what were you racing, 10hp added to 500 won't make much difference,
but
> 10hp added to 100 sure might ... also I thought 10hp translated to a
shade more
> than that in the quarter, depending on what you were running of course
..

> Just my $.02

========================================
68 Hemi RoadRunner
70AAR Cuda [440 6 pak]
68Dodge R/T [440 6 pak]
No they were not lawn mowers
as far as i know they DID put out more than 10 H.P. ALSO
gordon

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORDaol.com
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 19:20:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Get together in Laughlin

Sounds like a plan, do you know about when that show is?

Darrell

------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" writeme.com>
Subject: Re: web links
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:20:10 -0500


I don't mind at all, thanks for linking to my site.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com



----- Original Message -----
From: Lyndell Smith
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 9:16 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] web links




I put several link to other websites on my web page and I don't want to
offend anyone so let me know if you them removed and I will remove them.. I
tried to keep it to FORDS.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/scb3552/

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------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" writeme.com>
Subject: Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 19:05:28 -0500


I don't have any trim of any sort on the inside of my doors.

This may be a silly question, but what exactly is a custom cab?

I think I probably will make my own though, because I like doing things myself.

Thanks

---Garrett www.1966ford.com



----- Original Message -----
From: Desanto, Phillip
To: '61-79-listford-trucks.com'
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 8:09 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels


From: "Garrett Nelson" writeme.com>
Subject: Does anyone make aftermarket interior door panels for my truck?
I want to buy some, or if I can't find any I will make them.
Anybody seen anything? Thanks, Garrett
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Garrett, besides the already mentioned sources, you CAN make them very
easily. You can buy pleated upholstery material and cut it to fit inside
your Custom Cab door trim. Just punch holes for the window and door lever
shafts. I found a nice 1" pleated vinyl seat in a wrecked car and cut what I
needed from the seat back. Worked like a charm. Looks for all the world like
it grew there, and it was free! Good luck, Phil (64 F-100 Custom Cab)











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------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" writeme.com>
Subject: Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 19:12:26 -0500


One more thing.... where can I buy vinyl material online?

Thanks

---Garrett www.1966ford.com






------------------------------

From: "Southerland, Rich" alldata.com>
Subject: Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels
Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 17:21:49 -0700

Don't know, but before you buy it online, suggest you look at your local
fabric store (SWMBO knows where it is) as the one near us carries vinyl
(padded and non-padded) in many colors and it often goes on sale! :)

Plus, often you can buy remnants dirt cheap to practice on before you start
cutting the real stuff!

-----Original Message-----
From: Garrett Nelson [mailto:garrettnelsonwriteme.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2000 5:12 PM
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 61-66 Cheap-o door panels



One more thing.... where can I buy vinyl material online?

Thanks

---Garrett www.1966ford.com





==========================================================
To unsubscribe:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #149
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