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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 05 Jul 2000 08:34:54 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 08:34:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #147
Precedence: list

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 04 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 147

In This Issue:
Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R
Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R
Re: 352 Blown Exhaust Manifold Gasket
New Addition
Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R
Re: Oil Pan Source
Oil Pan Source
Re: ADMIN: Web site updates
Re: ADMIN: Web site updates
Re: Starter Fix
Re: Erie PA
More power
FTE folks in Ohio Unite
Re: More power
Re: #$&! Power steering...
Re: 351 Cleveland
Re: 351 Cleveland
Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R
Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R
'65 bed length?
Re: '65 bed length?
Re: '65 bed length?
Re: 351 Cleveland

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R
Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 00:08:45 PDT

>Also, does anyone have any tips for removal and replacement of the pan
>without pulling the motor? I believe that I can loosen the motor
>mounts, raise the engine and then drop the pan.
>
>Thanks in advance for any help.

That is it exactly, you may have to drop the oil pump into the pan, I
couldn't get my engine up high enough to clear the pump, but that isn't a
big deal, if you don't have a hoist to lift it, I used a 2x4 on the crank
shaft pully and slowly jacked it up with a floor jack.



Chris

'67 F100 352
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 06:43:27 -0700


> >Also, does anyone have any tips for removal and replacement of the pan
> >without pulling the motor? I believe that I can loosen the motor
> >mounts, raise the engine and then drop the pan.
======================================
> That is it exactly, you may have to drop the oil pump into the pan, I
> couldn't get my engine up high enough to clear the pump, but that isn't a

> big deal, if you don't have a hoist to lift it, I used a 2x4 on the crank

> shaft pully and slowly jacked it up with a floor jack.
>
> Chris
>
> '67F100352_______________________________________________________
hi
ANY f/e oil pan with the front sump will work on yours even the autos are
the same i used a 427 pan on my F/ E truck[69]
YES you can raise the engine and it will go right in there without removing
the pump pickup the best way i found is to remove the hood tho too that
way you can get a hoist to lift it be carefull the fan does not hit the
radiator tho
DO NOT try using a 2x4 under the crank tho its not stable enough and CAN
slip off very easy if it does you may be looking for a new crank or new
fingers etc.
gordon

------------------------------

From: "Deacon" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: 352 Blown Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 05:58:22 -0700

From: "Bill Templeton"

> The left manifold gasket is blown on my 352. I suspect this exhaust
manifold
> has never been off before. And some of the bolt heads seem to be
slightly
> rounded.

If the manifold's never been removed, how did the bolt heads get
slightly rounded? Have you been trying to stop the exhaust leak by
tightening the bolts and rounded them? If not I would suspect they've
been off.

>Out of concern that manifold bolts will be difficult to remove (and
> possibly break)
>I am planning to pull the intake
> manifold and remove the left head with exhaust manifold attached.

Wait-up Homie! I wouldn't do that if I broke a bolt in the exhaust
manifold. First off your tripling (if not more) your cost. You will need
to get a head gasket set (I'm replacing a head on a friends Camaro as we
speak and the head gasket set was $65) when all you need is the exhaust
gasket. Next would be the stupidity of doing it this way. Your worried a
bolt will brake off in the head so you going to risk braking a head bolt
in the block? Your not thinking about how much unnecessary work this
would be or all that could go wrong messing with sheet that needn't be
at risk. It would be cheaper and faster to take it to a shop and let
them do it.

> and also exhaust pipe (actually crossover) studs have
> minimal threads remaining (need replacing),

The threads there now is all there ever was because they don't get
shorter with age. There's no reason to mess with them if that's all your
worried about.

> Several notes: 1). If I remove the left head, I will probably go ahead
and
> remove both heads and lap valves (compression is 120 lbs across all
> cylinders),

Us old guys lapped valves because in the good ol' dazes before PCV
and oil was just oil, carbon and crap built up on the valves and in the
ports that needed to be removed. Now daze lapping will do more damage to
your valves than anything else. By removing metal the valve edge gets
thinner. That makes the valve get hotter and burn. Only a valve grind
improves efficiency.

>2). There is oil leakage from areas of intake manifold/heads.

Clogged PCV can cuze this by pressure building up in the block or bolts
may have gotten loose. Still not a good reason to tear down the engine.
If you can't stop the oil leakage with RTV and checking that the bolts
are torqued, wash down the engine when you clean the truck and check the
oil.

> Hopefully, replacing the intake manifold and head gaskets will take
care of
> this leak.

With everything all nice and sealed you'll have higher oil & coolant
pressure those old seals will start leaking then one of those old rusty
freeze plugs; that you should have replaced when the engine was all
apart; will give-way. may as well add them to the list too.

>3). I have not been able to match up the threads on the exhaust
> pipe (actually crossover) studs, does anyone know what the thread size
is?

That's cuz of the years of corrosion on them, not that it's uncommon.
Are you missing a nut?

>Also, I plan to use a 36" belt sander to surface the
> exhaust manifold as needed.

Do you always go for the over kill? You need to chill a little

Cuz the boyz in the hood are alwayz hard
You come talkin' that trash and we'll pull your card
Knowin' nothin' in life but to be legit
Don't quote me boy, cuz I ain't said...

Later!

Deacon

deconblu ford-trucks.com
deconblu earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 09:07:15 -0500
Subject: Re: [61-79-list]new ads
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

Ken, I did notice the ad the first time it came across. It is not annoying
in the least and I will watch for products that interest me. Thanks again
for all of your work on FTE.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 12:29:31 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski ford-trucks.com>
Subject: New Addition

I suppose after awhile, Ford Trucks become an obsession. There was a
' 66 sitting on RT 4 that I've always admired from afar. We were on our
way to the Tigers Indians game and it was sitting by the road. FOR SALE!!!
SWISO got that look on her face of "but where are we going to put
it?" I bought it today for $400. Rust in the usual spots. All original with
352 2bbl, 4 speed, & 123,000 miles. I bring it home tomorrow !

Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH
mailto:theodore ford-trucks.com
' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed
' 63 F-100 parts truck
' 66 F-250 352 4 speed flatbed










------------------------------

From: SHill48337 aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 12:58:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R

In a message dated 7/3/00 11:10:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tkbowman uswest.net writes:

<< Does anyone in the Seattle area have an oil pan for a 360 to fit a '68
F100 2 wheel drive pickup? My son-in-law stripped the backing plate and
it is now loose inside the pan. So we now have a project.

Also, does anyone have any tips for removal and replacement of the pan
without pulling the motor? I believe that I can loosen the motor
mounts, raise the engine and then drop the pan. >>

Can't help you on the pan all I have laying around is a rear sump for that
engine. But 2 of my sons each have a 75 Ford picks up with 390s, so I have
had the opportunity to get into the pan. I believe the 2 WD 68 is close to
the same configuration, the hard spot is the cross member under the sump area
of the pan. With the motor mounts taken loose from the frame lift the engine
as high as it will go. This probably will not allow the oil pump and pickup
tube to clear the pan. But, it will give you ample access to the oil pump,
remove oil pump, let it drop down into the pan and then the whole assembly
comes out forward rather easily.
Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 10:16:30 -0700
From: CLAUDE JONES phonewave.net>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Source

Hi Tim,
Have you checked out the salvage yard there on Hwy 99 in Lynnwood, its
about a mile north of the Price Costco on the west side of the road. I
drove past that place a hundred times when I lived in Everett, and
worked down at the old Sandpoint Navy Base.

On removing the pan, Yes you can do it that way, but???
After my experience that way, not again! I'll let it leak until it's
time to pull the engine for a rebuild. Took me and another guy all
afternoon to get it put back in. The hard part was trying to bolt the
oil pump back in in a very confined space. Ha Ha Ha what an experience
that was! Maybe we didn't need to remove the whole oil pump, just the
pick up tube might of worked? What do you think people?? Did I do it
wrong! :o)
Anyways good luck on your project.

Claude
66' F250 CC/CS
(now at NAS Fallon)


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Oil Pan Source
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 14:19:13 -0700

have you checked with MILL SUPPLY i think i saw them in their book the
other day for about 60.00 NEW if not PAW has them new i know for sure but
they are over that tho
Also a month ago i changed the pan on my 69f100 by lifting the engine up
with a hoist Without removing the oil pump i did remove the water pump tho
i think to do it
IF you do this tho replace the oil pump with the better High Volume pump
while its all apart
gordon



------------------------------

From: "Andersons" cfw.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Web site updates
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 14:18:35 -0400

As a new member to the list, and a new Ford truck owner, wanted to give you
a thumbs-up on the site. Nice content, links, and professionally done.
Loads a bit slow for me, maybe cuz I'm east coast. It has already helped me
out with repair info for my new "project"; keep up the good work.

Bob
Covington, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
To: ford-trucks.com>; <61-79-listford-trucks.com>;
<80-96-listford-trucks.com>; <97up-listford-trucks.com>;
ford-trucks.com>; ford-trucks.com>;
ford-trucks.com>; ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, July 03, 2000 11:34 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] ADMIN: Web site updates


> The Picture Gallery on the web site has been updated. I tried
> to knock out a bunch of pictures and I'm caught up through
> May 10th submissions. I still have 50+ pictures to finish
> getting caught up.
>
> There's a really nice selection of trucks this time, some
> unusual trucks and virtually every truck group is covered!
>
> Trucks added:
> 1955 F600 Firetruck
> 1960 F250 Crewcab
> 1965 Econoline
> 1965 Firetruck
> 1969 F250
> 1974 F250 4x4
> 1977 Ranchero 500
> 1978 F150
> 1982 F250 Custom 4x4
> 1983 F150 XLS
> 1985 F150
> 1990 F150 Lariat
> 1996 F350
> 1997 Ranger SuperCab 4x4
> 1999 F150 XLT 4x4
> 1999 F150 Extended Cab
> 2000 F350 SuperDuty 4x4 Crewcab
>
> Links to these can be found on the main page of the
> site: www.ford-trucks.com
>
> Ken Payne
> Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 14:29:59 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Web site updates

At 02:18 PM 7/4/00 , you wrote:
>As a new member to the list, and a new Ford truck owner, wanted to give you
>a thumbs-up on the site. Nice content, links, and professionally done.
>Loads a bit slow for me, maybe cuz I'm east coast. It has already helped me
>out with repair info for my new "project"; keep up the good work.
>
>Bob
>Covington, VA

Thanks, I really appreciate it. Welcome aboard, you've
found a really good group of people here. And you live
close enough to Tennessee to make it to the Supernats
next year!

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 11:37:52 -0700
From: Marv & Marge lafn.org>
Subject: Re: Starter Fix

Jeff Carver ncwebsurfer.com> wrote:

> I remember a 'fix' for a starter that involved welding
> the arm, I believe, that cures chronic hanging up.

Jeff,
Steve's website for this is:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/truck/starterfix/

-Marv-

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 14:57:21 -0400
From: Steve Schaefer plastekgroup.com>
Subject: Re: Erie PA

>
> Subject: erie pa.
> Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:44:43 -0700
>
> wheres the fella from erie pa near me
> gordon

Gordon

I am still here. I unfortunatly don't get a chance to check much mail during the weekend. I am on the east side of Erie. Exit 9 on I-90.

Steve S
77 F-250 Supercab
76 F-350 Crewcab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 12:31:42 -0700
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: More power

>>Check out what I have done so far at www.1966ford.com


By checking your site out it seems we are running very similar FEs.
Unilite,Edelbrock intake,mild Melling cam etc.
I personally think I need more cam in mine.

>>>I am planning on putting on headers next. Who makes good ones for a 390?

I hve Heddmans on mine and they seem like a decent product for the $140
price.

>>>I see Edelbrock makes some spiffy aluminum heads for $1200 a pair... how much power would they get me?

From what I have read on this list,not much,

>>>Would they increase compression much?
I don't know,but as a owner of a 10.5 to 1 FE I would not go over 9.5.
I would get the headers first and then tune tune tune.Different jets,
P-valves,more total advance etc.Tuning is the secret.

------------------------------

From: "Larry Coffman" defnet.com>
Subject: FTE folks in Ohio Unite
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 17:16:17 -0400

I live in northwest Ohio, Defiance to be exact. So when are some of us
buckeyes going to get together?

Larry Coffman

66 F-100
77 F-150


------------------------------

From: "Garrett Nelson" writeme.com>
Subject: Re: More power
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 17:38:30 -0500


Know of any good websites that go into tuning Holley carbs?

And did you run into any clearance problems at all with your headers?

What is your timing set at? Mine is set at 12 degrees, I haven't really played with it much.

---Garrett www.1966ford.com


----- Original Message -----
From: scott
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 2:31 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] More power


>>Check out what I have done so far at www.1966ford.com


By checking your site out it seems we are running very similar FEs.
Unilite,Edelbrock intake,mild Melling cam etc.
I personally think I need more cam in mine.

>>>I am planning on putting on headers next. Who makes good ones for a 390?

I hve Heddmans on mine and they seem like a decent product for the $140
price.

>>>I see Edelbrock makes some spiffy aluminum heads for $1200 a pair... how much power would they get me?

>From what I have read on this list,not much,

>>>Would they increase compression much?
I don't know,but as a owner of a 10.5 to 1 FE I would not go over 9.5.
I would get the headers first and then tune tune tune.Different jets,
P-valves,more total advance etc.Tuning is the secret.
==========================================================
To unsubscribe:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 22:26:36 -0400
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: #$&! Power steering...



David Wadson wrote:
>
> > I have had this happen many times. Sounds like you have air. Question,
> >does any power steering fluid piss out when you shut off the truck? if
> >so, then you still have air in it. It is difficult to fill gearbox and
> >reservior without getting air in it. Once the fluid foames up, you have
> >to let it run (no steering) with PS cap off (leaving cap on will trap
> >air, it'll never bleed right :-)) for while to get the air out of fluid.
> >Then you can get weight off wheels and try bleeding again. Make sure you
> >use real PS fluid, not trany fluid. The PS fluid (clear) foames much
> >less.
> >
> > OX
> >
> >PS, rebuilding PS boxes seems to be a black art, it's possible even
> >dealer messed it up.
>
> This is exactly what I meant...the shop manual makes it sound so simple but
> someone always has a few extra tips that the books leave out!

I wish someone would have told me the first time it happened. I ended
up tearing apart a perfectly good PS box, heehee

OX

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:23:07 EDT
Subject: Re: 351 Cleveland

i just sold a set of 351c 4barrel closed chamber heads for 150.00, and i have
a professionally rebuilt shortblock, with alot of performance parts and its
balanced, i wanted 450.00 for it, but had no interest, so i'm putting it in
my 69 mach 1

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: IanBoss69aol.com
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:47:41 EDT
Subject: Re: 351 Cleveland

Well I got a redone set of 4bbl heads, a turned crank, a cleaned and honed
block, a brand spankin new set of alum pistons, intake, 4bbl carb, rockers,
pushrods, and alot of little crap, oil pan, valve covers, timing chain cover,
starter etc, for 500 bucks,,,and now I need something to put it in, so if
anyone knows of a 49 -51 Merc coupe for sale around 4-5 grand, need not paint
or engine/tranny, wheels, or a 71 mustang of the same description, lemme know

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R
Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 23:56:35 -0400

Yeah.Unbolt both the motor mounts & the tranny mount & jack the motor up
until the bell housing hits the lower part of the firewall.I had to take the
pan off from my '75 2-wheel drive in order to replace the oil pump.This
worked well for me.Hope this helps.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Bowman uswest.net>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>;
lovefordsegroups.com egroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 2:11 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Oil Pan Source and R&R


>Does anyone in the Seattle area have an oil pan for a 360 to fit a '68
>F100 2 wheel drive pickup? My son-in-law stripped the backing plate and
>it is now loose inside the pan. So we now have a project.
>
>Also, does anyone have any tips for removal and replacement of the pan
>without pulling the motor? I believe that I can loosen the motor
>mounts, raise the engine and then drop the pan.
>
>Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>
>
>--
>Tim Bowman
>Burien, WA
>tkbowmanuswest.net
>Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
> (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe:
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Andersons" cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 00:14:58 -0400

One other thing, if clearance is an issue when sliding the oil pan out to
the rear, make sure you have placed the crank with #1 piston at TDC. This
gives a whole lot more room for the front edge of the pan to pass. Take
your time, and have fun!
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim and Pam Allgire williams-net.com>
To: <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 11:56 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: Oil Pan Source and R&R


> Yeah.Unbolt both the motor mounts & the tranny mount & jack the motor up
> until the bell housing hits the lower part of the firewall.I had to take
the
> pan off from my '75 2-wheel drive in order to replace the oil pump.This
> worked well for me.Hope this helps.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Bowman uswest.net>
> To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>;
> lovefordsegroups.com egroups.com>
> Date: Tuesday, July 04, 2000 2:11 AM
> Subject: [61-79-list] Oil Pan Source and R&R
>
>
> >Does anyone in the Seattle area have an oil pan for a 360 to fit a '68
> >F100 2 wheel drive pickup? My son-in-law stripped the backing plate and
> >it is now loose inside the pan. So we now have a project.
> >
> >Also, does anyone have any tips for removal and replacement of the pan
> >without pulling the motor? I believe that I can loosen the motor
> >mounts, raise the engine and then drop the pan.
> >
> >Thanks in advance for any help.
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >Tim Bowman
> >Burien, WA
> >tkbowmanuswest.net
> >Website: www.users.uswest.net/~tkbowman
> > (Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)
> >
> >
> >==========================================================
> >To unsubscribe:
> >http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> >Please remove this footer when replying.
> >
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 01:47:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott Hall garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Subject: '65 bed length?

is the 8-foot bed the short or long length?

thanks.



------------------------------

From: Natp244cs.com
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 01:53:36 EDT
Subject: Re: '65 bed length?

In a message dated 7/5/00 12:50:16 AM Central Daylight Time,
sch8489garnet.acns.fsu.edu writes:

<< is the 8-foot bed the short or long length?

thanks. >>

That would be the long one.
Nate

------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: '65 bed length?
Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 00:54:03 -0500

Eight foot is the long bed.
Jason Kendrick

----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Hall garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
is the 8-foot bed the short or long length?
thanks.



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 06:33:13 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson ctc.edu>
Subject: Re: 351 Cleveland

I have '73 Mustang that I am considering selling (either that or my
Unibody wraparound short bed :( ). I'm not clear on if you want good
paint or if it doesn't matter...Mine needs paint...(so does the Unibody,
but not as badly as the Mustang...) THe Mustang has a 302-2V-C4, the
Unibody a 351C-2V-C4...I'd let the Mustang go for $1100, the Unibody for
absolutely no less than $3500...and I'd have to think about that...

IanBoss69aol.com wrote:
>
> Well I got a redone set of 4bbl heads, a turned crank, a cleaned and honed
> block, a brand spankin new set of alum pistons, intake, 4bbl carb, rockers,
> pushrods, and alot of little crap, oil pan, valve covers, timing chain cover,
> starter etc, for 500 bucks,,,and now I need something to put it in, so if
> anyone knows of a 49 -51 Merc coupe for sale around 4-5 grand, need not paint
> or engine/tranny, wheels, or a 71 mustang of the same description, lemme know
>
> Ian
> 79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
> True Blue Ford Blue
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.

------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #147
***********************************
<><><><><><> Serious Help Finding That Part! <><><><><><>
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