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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Sat, 01 Jul 2000 23:09:28 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 23:09:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #144
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Fri, 30 Jun 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 144

In This Issue:
Re: Boy, Did I missed the list!
FE Head question
390 pistons in a 300?
Re: FE Head question
Re: 390 pistons in a 300?
Re: FE Head question
erie pa.
spring and shackle stuff
Spring Bushings
Re: Spring Bushings
Re: 351M/400 headers.
Spring and shackle bushings
Re: 351M/400 headers.
Re: 351M/400 headers.
Question for '67-'72 shortbed owners
Re: 390 pistons in a 300?
shackle bushings
missed answer to 63 4x4 rear bumper question
Re: missed answer to 63 4x4 rear bumper question
Re blocks
Re: Re blocks
Re: FTE folks in OH unite!
Electric Fuel Pump Causes Great Happiness
Re: List problems
Re: FE Head question
Re: FE Head question
[Fwd: Rear Bumper for '63 F100 4x4]
351 Cleveland
off topic, but still Ford
352 Blown Exhaust Manifold Gasket

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 23:05:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Scott Hall garnet.acns.fsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Boy, Did I missed the list!

On Fri, 30 Jun 2000, Stu Varner wrote:

> Is there anyone on the list who lives in the Peterborough area that
> wouldn't mind emailing me off list.
> The Merc panel truck is about 500 meters north of the John Deere equipment
> company right as you head north out of Peterborough. I think it is a few
> miles before you get on 28 which takes you to Bancroft. I would really
> appreciate
> an help.

if you get any info about it, I'd like to hear it, too. I'm in the market
for a panel.

scott


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 20:06:05 -0700
From: Don Grossman mac.com>
Subject: FE Head question

I have 2 sets of FE heads

1 set is D2TEAA and the other set is C8AEH. I am only going to have
room for 1 set, which should I keep?

TIA
--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

43 GPW
63 F-100 4x4
77 F250
99 Contour

------------------------------

From: "Eric Washburn" flash.net>
Subject: 390 pistons in a 300?
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:10:25 -0500

Ok, can someone tell me what's up with putting 390 pistons in a 300? Also,
if it does more good than harm, can someone show me how to figure out what
size 390 pistons to put in a 300, say a .030 overbore?


------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: FE Head question
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:12:43 -0500

Don, keep the set of heads that looks better, as they are both essentialy
the same. Both have 68 to 71 cc chambers, both have the same size valves,
and both have the same port sizes.
----- Original Message -----

From: Don Grossman mac.com>

> 1 set is D2TEAA and the other set is C8AEH. I am only going to have
> room for 1 set, which should I keep?


------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: Re: 390 pistons in a 300?
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:20:13 -0500

Your 300 would have to have a 4.050" bore to accept standard sized 390
pistons. I'm also curious as to why you'd want 390 pistons in a 300. Anyone
have an answer?
Jason
390fe

----- Original Message -----
can someone show me how to figure out what
> size 390 pistons to put in a 300, say a .030 overbore?



------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: FE Head question
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:38:05 -0700



> 1 set is D2TEAA and the other set is C8AEH. I am only going to have
> room for 1 set, which should I keep?
Don Grossman
========================================
keep the c8aeh heads they are the better performance ones But the D2s
should have the hardened seats in them
gordon

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: erie pa.
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:44:43 -0700



wheres the fella from erie pa near me
gordon

------------------------------

From: JXS bridgetest.com>
Subject: spring and shackle stuff
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:56:02 -0700

Hi Ben,

Well, this is a real good situation for a Sawzall....worked wonders for me!!!! Or, try and hacksaw and cut one "split", and you should be able to pop the these parts out with a screwdriver.....

You can replace them with the neoprene ones that go without the outer bushing....

Hope this helps!!!!

CJ (Colorado Jeff)


-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: application/ms-tnef



------------------------------

From: "Chris Samuel" email.msn.com>
Subject: Spring Bushings
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:07:07 -0700


-> From: "Ben VerWolf" hotmail.com>
-> Subject: Spring and Shackle bushings
-> Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 16:08:00 MDT
->
-> Hello! I have a 69 F-250 4x4 that has bad spring and shackle bushings. I
-> recently bought new ones and am having a tough time getting them
-> installed.
-> I can usually get the bolt loose and out, but getting what is
-> left of the
-> bushing is a bugger!!! The middle part of the bushing usually
-> falls right
-> out, but the outside metal part of the bushing is stuck and rusted in. I
-> have tried driving them out with another bushing and I even tried to cut
-> them out with a chisel. The only last resort I am thinking about is to
-> remove the springs and press them out with a hydraulic press.
-> If any of
-> you have ever replaced these or have any ideas or suggestions, I would
-> really appreciate it.
-> Thanks again!!

Your right this is a real pain!
The way that I do it is to use a "Blue Frame Wrench".
What I do is to first try heating the outside part of the bushing up clear
to red hot. Then I get the chisel in under the hot metal and start prying
it up if I can. If I cant I let everything cool down completely and then
very quickly and carefully I burn the liner out of the spring. If the spring
stays cold the torch will not cut it. Putting the new bushing in is best
done with a Hydraulic press as you mentioned.
To do the Shackle Bushings into the housings that are riveted in to the
frame... I tried everything I could think of and ended up wasting 4
bushings before I gave up and took the grinder to the rivets and then
knocked the housing out of the frame and, you guessed it Hydraulic Press!
What I learned when I measured the housing and the "aftermarket" bushing was
that there was 0.015 interference. I don't know what Ford calls for but
there was no way to press those bushings in! I used a Sunnen hone to hone
the housing out to a much more reasonable 0.0025 press.
Good luck, I just did this job and it weren't no fun!

Muel



------------------------------

From: "davidl" tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: Spring Bushings
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:35:35 -0500

the word sawsall comes to mind Use it to split the bushing in two or
three places some times you do not have to cut all the way through the
bushing. the bad thing about the tourch is the heat on the spring eye.
To press back in make sure you push on the steel on the outside edge of
the bushing. Pushing on the rubber normal get you no were.
Just an other thought
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Samuel email.msn.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, July 01, 2000 12:10 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Spring Bushings


>
>-> From: "Ben VerWolf" hotmail.com>
>-> Subject: Spring and Shackle bushings
>-> Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 16:08:00 MDT
>->
>-> Hello! I have a 69 F-250 4x4 that has bad spring and shackle bushings. I
>-> recently bought new ones and am having a tough time getting them
>-> installed.
>-> I can usually get the bolt loose and out, but getting what is
>-> left of the
>-> bushing is a bugger!!! The middle part of the bushing usually
>-> falls right
>-> out, but the outside metal part of the bushing is stuck and rusted in. I
>-> have tried driving them out with another bushing and I even tried to cut
>-> them out with a chisel. The only last resort I am thinking about is to
>-> remove the springs and press them out with a hydraulic press.
>-> If any of
>-> you have ever replaced these or have any ideas or suggestions, I would
>-> really appreciate it.
>-> Thanks again!!
>
>Your right this is a real pain!
>The way that I do it is to use a "Blue Frame Wrench".
>What I do is to first try heating the outside part of the bushing up clear
>to red hot. Then I get the chisel in under the hot metal and start prying
>it up if I can. If I cant I let everything cool down completely and then
>very quickly and carefully I burn the liner out of the spring. If the
spring
>stays cold the torch will not cut it. Putting the new bushing in is best
>done with a Hydraulic press as you mentioned.
>To do the Shackle Bushings into the housings that are riveted in to the
>frame... I tried everything I could think of and ended up wasting 4
>bushings before I gave up and took the grinder to the rivets and then
>knocked the housing out of the frame and, you guessed it Hydraulic Press!
>What I learned when I measured the housing and the "aftermarket" bushing
was
>that there was 0.015 interference. I don't know what Ford calls for but
>there was no way to press those bushings in! I used a Sunnen hone to hone
>the housing out to a much more reasonable 0.0025 press.
>Good luck, I just did this job and it weren't no fun!
>
>Muel
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe:
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:29:19 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: 351M/400 headers.

You are referring to the diameter of the primary tubes. The general rule
of thumb is the larger the primary tube diameter the more high RPM
horsepower the motor is CAPABLE of producing but this will result in a
decrease of low end raw torque usually. Switching to a smaller primary
tube design will generally reduce high end horsepower but will provide
more power at low RPM and right off of idle.

There are MANY more factors to consider when comparing headers than
primary tube size alone. Primary tube length, collector diameter,
collector length, Tri Y design, or standard 4 into 1 collector can all
cause a motor to produce more or less horsepower and/or torque at any
given RPM.

Another consideration is quality of the product. The flange thickness at
the cylinder head is very important. they can range from 1/4 inch to 3/8
inch with the thicker ones being more preferable due to longer header
gasket life. Primary tube wall thickness is something to watch, as well
as the different types of corrosion resistant coatings are all important
to look for. The collectors can come in different designs as well.

Different headers from different manufacturers are routed in different
patterns (ie) fenderwell exit. I had a set of Heddman headers on my 77
F250 w 400M and the header on the passenger side had 2 tubes passing
through the gap between the frame rail and the starter behind the motor
mount and the other 2 tubes went forward of the motor mount and wrapped
around and slid into the collector with a close tolerance fit. Sounded
like a good idea at installation but after years the starter went bad
and I found where the header tubes slid into the collector had corroded
and bonded to make removal impossible. In order to get starter out I had
to cut header with a cutting torch (or remove the motor). I didn't like
either option. I then ordered a set of generic PAW brand headers and
they were routed in a different pattern on the right side (all 4 tubes
hugged the starter which heat soak isn't good for starters either). When
I converted to the 429 I had a shop build me a set of custom fenderwell
exit headers which are the best possible way for them to be run in my
opinion. (plenty of room to work on motor (ie starter, plugs) and the
under hood temperatures are significantly lower now.

Hope this helps a little...
Laters, Danny Ling


------------------------------

From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Spring and shackle bushings
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:39:03 -0700

From: "Ben VerWolf" hotmail.com>
Subject: Spring and Shackle bushings
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 16:08:00 MDT

Hi Ben,
I've had that same problem and think that I'm looking at it in a couple of
days on another truck. What I do is take a torch and cut the rusted in
portion from one end to the other, fold it inward a bit with a heavy
screwdrive and then drive it out. Sounds hard but isn't really.
Email me off list if you've got problems with it.
Pat Patrick
Patsplace
77 F250 4X4
78 F150 W/Overloads
72 Ranger parts truck
79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction)
78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT.











------------------------------

From: "davidl" tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: 351M/400 headers.
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:52:46 -0500

check out L&L for headers fender well exit no starter burn out And the
most weight of any header on the market. But they dont come cheap

L&L Headers
Heavy Duty 14-guage tubing
Tuned Primary Tubes
3/8" Collection Flanges
1/2" Exhaust Flanges
Available for most Ford 429/460 conversions and for most ** applications.
Headers Starting at $389.95

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Danny Ling webtv.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, July 01, 2000 12:29 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 351M/400 headers.


>You are referring to the diameter of the primary tubes. The general rule
>of thumb is the larger the primary tube diameter the more high RPM
>horsepower the motor is CAPABLE of producing but this will result in a
>decrease of low end raw torque usually. Switching to a smaller primary
>tube design will generally reduce high end horsepower but will provide
>more power at low RPM and right off of idle.
>
>There are MANY more factors to consider when comparing headers than
>primary tube size alone. Primary tube length, collector diameter,
>collector length, Tri Y design, or standard 4 into 1 collector can all
>cause a motor to produce more or less horsepower and/or torque at any
>given RPM.
>
>Another consideration is quality of the product. The flange thickness at
>the cylinder head is very important. they can range from 1/4 inch to 3/8
>inch with the thicker ones being more preferable due to longer header
>gasket life. Primary tube wall thickness is something to watch, as well
>as the different types of corrosion resistant coatings are all important
>to look for. The collectors can come in different designs as well.
>
>Different headers from different manufacturers are routed in different
>patterns (ie) fenderwell exit. I had a set of Heddman headers on my 77
>F250 w 400M and the header on the passenger side had 2 tubes passing
>through the gap between the frame rail and the starter behind the motor
>mount and the other 2 tubes went forward of the motor mount and wrapped
>around and slid into the collector with a close tolerance fit. Sounded
>like a good idea at installation but after years the starter went bad
>and I found where the header tubes slid into the collector had corroded
>and bonded to make removal impossible. In order to get starter out I had
>to cut header with a cutting torch (or remove the motor). I didn't like
>either option. I then ordered a set of generic PAW brand headers and
>they were routed in a different pattern on the right side (all 4 tubes
>hugged the starter which heat soak isn't good for starters either). When
>I converted to the 429 I had a shop build me a set of custom fenderwell
>exit headers which are the best possible way for them to be run in my
>opinion. (plenty of room to work on motor (ie starter, plugs) and the
>under hood temperatures are significantly lower now.
>
>Hope this helps a little...
>Laters, Danny Ling
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe:
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "davidl" tbcnet.com>
Subject: Re: 351M/400 headers.
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:59:16 -0500

http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/mblock.html
read this one if you missed it
Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Danny Ling webtv.net>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Saturday, July 01, 2000 12:29 AM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 351M/400 headers.





------------------------------

From: "PitStop Performance" hotmail.com>
Subject: Question for '67-'72 shortbed owners
Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 01:33:03 CDT

Hello,

I am doing some custom work on my truck and I need some information. I need
to know the length from the rear of the rear wheel opening to the end on the
bed and from the front of the rear wheel opening to the front of the bed.

Thanks.

PS
Sorry if this is a repeat. I didn't get mail for a couple of days.


________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 01:11:36 -0700
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Re: 390 pistons in a 300?

I have put 390 pistons in a 300 I-6.
It has to be a .050 overbore 390 piston, the point of doing it is to raise the
compression without spending too much money, on a rare item..... "a
performance piston for a 300 I-6.

Off hand i don't remember the difference in height but at the time i found it
was perfect for use in a high compression propane engine.

Eric Washburn wrote:

> Ok, can someone tell me what's up with putting 390 pistons in a 300? Also,
> if it does more good than harm, can someone show me how to figure out what
> size 390 pistons to put in a 300, say a .030 overbore?
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe:
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 03:44:40 -0700
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: shackle bushings

I have done all mine now in my 74 4x4, i had a press to get the darn
things out but even then a few wouldn't come. For the hard ones i Fed a
hack saw trough the leaf eye and used a small chisel to pry it out after
spitting it with the saw.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 04:06:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Daniel Mandernack yahoo.com>
Subject: missed answer to 63 4x4 rear bumper question

Ken,
Is there anyway I can get the three days of the list
that I missed? I may have missed the answer to the
question I posted about what sort of rear bumper would
have been used on my 63 4x4.
thanks,
Dan

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://invites.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 08:26:14 EDT
Subject: Re: missed answer to 63 4x4 rear bumper question

Dan: I may be wrong, but I don't recall anyone responding to your question.

Stock Man
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://hometown.aol.com

------------------------------

From: NUTCH11 aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 09:01:03 EDT
Subject: Re blocks

hi

According to Steve Christ's book big block ford engines 1983.
Ford used blocks with part number C6ME and C6ME-A for 390, 410 and 428 engine
size. They were made 1966-1976 most were 390's I suppose. there were other
part #'s used on 428's.
Also, if you don't mind solid lifters, 62-63 406 blocks make a 428 with the
long crank. Finding pistons seem to be a concern here. a good machine shop
will order
pistons to the configuration you need. I have had 427 blocks bored until they
cleanup and ordered pistons to fit. factory oversize may make you bore more
than you need. (save those cylinder walls).

thanks john

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Re blocks
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 09:23:07 -0700

> Also, if you don't mind solid lifters, 62-63 406 blocks make a 428 with
the
> long crank.
>
> thanks john
> =========================================
Some of the 61 to 63 t birds with the 390 -401 h.p. 3x2s setup also had
the solid lifters as well
gordon

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: FTE folks in OH unite!
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 09:43:41 -0700




> South West Ohio here,
ps. possibly going to sell collection soon due to medical condition
John Miller,
> =========================================
what types of trucks do you have
i have a friend looking for a 61 to 63 short bed p/u in pretty good
condition if anyone knows of one within driving distance of n.e. ohio
gordon

------------------------------

From: JXS bridgetest.com>
Subject: Electric Fuel Pump Causes Great Happiness
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 10:15:36 -0700

Well, about 15 years too late, I just installed a Carter electric fuel pump in my 69/FE. Not only does it run smoother while it's hot, the vapor lock or whatever was happening (I think its amplified here in the higher altitude) has been completely eliminated. Seems like a much better idea to push the fuel through the line (its installed right below the driver's side seat on the outside of the frame) rather than try to pull it....

I still need to install the oil pressure safety switch and run all new wiring, but I wanted to try it out before doing the whole thing.

All I can say is that in the 23 years that I've had this truck, it has only "died" on me three different times, and all three times, it was the fuel pump.....

Soooooo, if your FE seems to run pretty rough in the hot weather, but is smooth just after warming up, and/or seems to "bog out" after letting the truck sit for 20 minutes after being hot and firing it up again, this might be something to look at....

Colorado Jeff


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 12:29:50 -0700
From: CLAUDE JONES phonewave.net>
Subject: Re: List problems

Yep! missed Wed. and Thurs., but it's no problem, you do a great job
Ken!! so a few little problems don't bother me in the least. Ads are no
problem either.
Claude
66' F250 CC/CS


------------------------------

From: "Ted and Sarah Freeman" ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: FE Head question
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 15:52:11 -0400

I have both sets as well. Both the C8 and D2 are identical. At least
that's what my machinist said after giving both the once over. As Jason
said, they both have the same cc numbers as well. I used the C8's on mine
mainly because the exhaust bolts came out on those.

-Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason & Kathy Kendrick mddc.com>
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Date: Friday, June 30, 2000 10:14 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: FE Head question


>Don, keep the set of heads that looks better, as they are both essentialy
>the same. Both have 68 to 71 cc chambers, both have the same size valves,
>and both have the same port sizes.
>----- Original Message -----
>
>From: Don Grossman mac.com>
>
>> 1 set is D2TEAA and the other set is C8AEH. I am only going to have
>> room for 1 set, which should I keep?
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe:
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
>Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: FE Head question
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 16:16:45 -0700




>
> I have both sets as well. Both the C8 and D2 are identical. At least
> that's what my machinist said after giving both the once over. As Jason
> said, they both have the same cc numbers as well. I used the C8's on
mine
> mainly because the exhaust bolts came out on those.
Ted
========================================YYES
BUT did they have the hardened seats in them on the C8s if not you may run
into the problem of the valves burning the seats out on them And if i
recall right the C8s didnt have the same flow pattern as the D2s did seeing
as how they were i think a Non Emission Type of head for 68 unlike the D2s
were
gordon

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 Jul 2000 16:06:30 -0700
From: dave Prasse gte.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Rear Bumper for '63 F100 4x4]

Hi Daniel,

Here is my round about answer I posted to your bumper ?.

dave Prasse

-- Attached file included as plaintext by Listar --

X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Message-ID: <395A5AE1.B074CC17 gte.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 13:06:57 -0700
From: dave Prasse gte.net>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.6 [en]C-CCK-MCD {GTE Internetworking} (Win98; I)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: [61-79-list] Rear Bumper for '63 F100 4x4
References: <20000628123650.11371.qmailweb3305.mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Daniel,

I am working on a '66 4x4 for a pulling truck.
The truck seems to have the original rear bumper,
according to the pictures in the factory literature.

I need to find a bumper that allows the tailgate to open.

If I can find that type bumper , I'll have a bumper for sale ...
not sure what shipping would cost.

dave Prasse
Freeport , IL


Daniel Mandernack wrote:
>
> Does anyone know what rear bumpers were available from
> the factory for my '63 F100 4x4?



------------------------------

From: IanBoss69aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 18:33:55 EDT
Subject: 351 Cleveland

hey guys, I just bought a 351C professionally rebuilt longblock and ,,,,get
this,,,,4bbl heads!!!!!!!!!,,,,I'll tell you how much after you guys tell me
what you think it's worth, I want to see if I made a good deal I think I did,
thanks

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue

------------------------------

From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick" mddc.com>
Subject: off topic, but still Ford
Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 11:30:19 -0500


I need some answers about Ford's 2.3 HSC engine, if any one can help. Email me at kendrickmddc.com
Thanks,
Jason Kendrick
390fe


------------------------------

From: "Bill Templeton" smnet.net>
Subject: 352 Blown Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 00:07:47 -0400

The left manifold gasket is blown on my 352. I suspect this exhaust manifold
has never been off before. And some of the bolt heads seem to be slightly
rounded. Out of concern that manifold bolts will be difficult to remove (and
possibly break) and also exhaust pipe (actually crossover) studs have
minimal threads remaining (need replacing), I am planning to pull the intake
manifold and remove the left head with exhaust manifold attached. This will
allow access to manifold bolts with the head/exhaust manifold assembly on
bench. I can then soak oil around the bolts at the head and heat head around
bolts as needed. Also, I plan to use a 36" belt sander to surface the
exhaust manifold as needed.

Any comments or recommendations would be appreciated on: 1). The above plan,
2). Disassembly of intake, head, and exhaust manifold, 3). Removal of
exhaust manifold bolts, 4). Replacement of exhaust pipe studs.

Several notes: 1). If I remove the left head, I will probably go ahead and
remove both heads and lap valves (compression is 120 lbs across all
cylinders), 2). There is oil leakage from areas of intake manifold/heads.
Hopefully, replacing the intake manifold and head gaskets will take care of
this leak. 3). I have not been able to match up the threads on the exhaust
pipe (actually crossover) studs, does anyone know what the thread size is?


Thanks,

Bill


------------------------------

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