Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages
contained in these archives without consent from the respective
author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on
any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by
individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors.

Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 23 Feb 2000 07:07:29 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 07:07:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #14
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Tue, 22 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 014

In This Issue:
Tranny fluids
distributor folly
Re: 4V FE blocks
Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?
Re: 460 Intake Manifold for sale
Re: ADMIN: Pictorial updated
Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?
Anyone have Deacon's address?
NP 435 meltdown
Re: AOD and Fluid Question
Re: 352 timing chain
Re: distributor folly
URGENT--I'm outta time.
Re: URGENT--I'm outta time.
Re: URGENT--I'm outta time.
Re: URGENT--I'm outta time.
Re: First Timer --- Holley 4bbl
Re: Choke Thermostats 101
Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?
400's Retarded Cam
Re: parting out 78 f150
Re: parting out 78 f150
78 f150 supercab for parts
swing out windows on supercab
Re: NP 435 meltdown
f250 4x4 for sale cheap
Pulling to the right
sounds of my truck with the new cam
Re: Anyone have Deacon's address?
Re: distributor folly
Re: Pulling to the right
Re: NP 435 meltdown

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Tranny fluids
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 08:29:34 -0500

Travis McG. writes: >>Now we're getting close to the question.
Right on the original dipstick it states to run ONLY Dexron/Mercon fluid.
The topic of mixing fluids was touched upon a little while ago.

What I was wondering was if TYPE F should continue to be used,
OR should it be changed over when the fluid is changed (which in this case
will be before running it again).<<

Nearly all shift kits I've seen recommend you use type F.(In fact all I've
ever seen do). I rebuild all types of automatics and I always use type F
when I know the driver will be hotrodding it or rough on it in any way. If
I overhaul one for someone I know to never mistreat their vehicle I use
what is noted on the dipstick. Bottom line is this: Type F is thinner
than dexron and will cause just slightly quicker shifts(probably not
noticeable to the driver). Let your consience be your guide I guess.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 08:50:42 -0500
From: "J. Doss Halsey" isl-inc.com>
Subject: distributor folly

Folks,

I thought I'd vent a little about my frustrating day yesterday. I wanted to
pull the distributor on my recently rebuilt 390 to take it to a fellow to
have the advance curve adjusted a little. What should have been a 5 minute
job turned into about 3 hours when I pulled the distributor and heard a
clink, clunk as the oil pump drive shaft fell into the pan.

I bought a new shaft (so the little keeper would be tighter). I loosened
the pan and jacked the engine off its mounts. A few tubafors placed under
the engine mounts made the whole assembly solid enough to reach into the
pan and retrieve the shaft. I put it all back together in another half hour
or so. That little hex shaft with it's silly keeper is not one of Ford's
better ideas in my book.

Doss Halsey
'68 F250 rebuilt 390, still trying to get it running just exactly right.

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: 4V FE blocks
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 08:55:43 -0600

> FWIW, I have a book that says a 390 4V was optional on 2WD F-150's in
> 1975. My previous truck, a '74 Supercab had a cast iron 4V intake
> (I still have the manifold) that I am sure was not original for that
> truck.
>

> My dad's 76 F-350 and my 76 F-150 both had Holley 4Vs on them.

I can verify this one for you Tom, I've got a 75/6 (they were the same
according to the part numbers) 390 4V intake sitting under my bench at home
:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/Images/Truck/eng10.jpg

the one on the right is the D5, the one on the left is a C5 ..both square
bore/Holley bolt patterns ...

Danny,
I would suspect a 360 with a weird intake on it if it were me ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 09:06:57 -0600


> a bad thing happened. > when I was
> idling at a stop light I was idling really slow, it was almost
> sputtering>
> Then, my wheel locked up, my brake locked up, my engine sputtered
> and died!

Sounds like your Duraspark box isn't sealed as tightly as it should be ...
the low idle was a symptom I had in my 82 GT ... when it was damp the idle
would be really low (the lowest I managed to watch without touching the gas
was 50rpm, idled for 2 minutes that way before I kicked it up ... not bad
for a 5.0 huh ? :) It was a pain to stop when it was acting this way 'cause
it was a manual and every time you'd shove the clutch in it would want to
die ...

Anyway you might try checking the connections to be sure they're not
corroded, and if its not too big of a deal, see if it clears up when the
weather dries out ... if it is a big deal, then replace the box ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "Nichols, Josh" svseeds.com>
Subject: Re: 460 Intake Manifold for sale
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 08:40:26 -0800



I have a new Edelbrock Performer manifold that I installed on my motor, but
I took it off before I ever drove the truck (Replaced with performer RPM).
I even still have the box. $125 OBO.
If interested send me an email off list.

Thanks
Josh

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 11:47:15 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Pictorial updated

At 04:07 AM 2/22/00 -0800, you wrote:
>Thanks Ken. I know there is plenty of work happening behind the scenes that
>we don't usually see. I don't know if we say it enough but Thanks. And in
>the spirit of the old beer commercial -- "I really love ya man!!!" :0)
>
>Tom H
Thanks!
Ken



------------------------------

From: "Serian" flashmail.com>
Subject: Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 11:47:14 -0500

> But why would stalling out cause my tire and brakes to lock up??

Did they actually lock up and stop turning altogether, or was it that
you found it suddenly very difficult to steer and the brakes required
a lot more push on the pedal to make them work ?

While the engine is running, it applies vacuum to the power booster
for the brakes, and it turns the belt that drives the power steering
pump. If the engine stalls, it no longer is applying the power assist
to your brakes and steering, so at that point, you have to do all the
work of making it steer and stop. This is perfectly normal, but can
be quite a surprise workout.

If the tires and brakes actually locked up and stopped turning when
it stalled (and thus shrieking on the road), this is not normal and should
be checked immediately.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 11:48:26 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Anyone have Deacon's address?

Does anyone here have Deacon's non- ford-trucks.com
email address? It appears that I misconfigured the
password on it so he can't retrieve email until I
get in touch with him.

TIA,
Ken Payne



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:13:47 -0800
Subject: NP 435 meltdown
From: "Jeff Norville" sosinet.net>

It _was_ the last thing I hadn't replaced this year...

Got a good, crunchy noise out of the tranny yesterday - pretty sure it was
the input shaft bearings saying goodbye.

Am guessing that the transmission was run dry at some point to cause this
bearing failure. When I swapped motors a couple of months back I drained
the old, multi-colored fluid and put in gear fluid 85w-90 (should probably
have looked harder for 50w synthetic engine oil, right?).

The bearings were already whining just a little when clutch was disengaged -
barely noticeable - then the abrupt change to crunchiness. It still shifts
ok - guess the gears and synchros haven't been affected yet (wishful
thinking?).

Anybody in California know of a yard with a bunch of these used that I can
put in while the other is being rebuilt? Had a major trip beginning this
weekend...

Any opinions on rebuilding the old one vs. finding a used one to rebuild?

Jeff

79 Bronco
400M, 4spd

------------------------------

From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" williams-net.com>
Subject: Re: AOD and Fluid Question
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 13:40:36 -0500

Check with a Ford dealership or check in your owners manual.All the AOD
trans that I have ever had needed Dextron/Mercon Fluid.
-----Original Message-----
From: Travis McGlaughlin hood.edu>
To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Date: Monday, February 21, 2000 3:04 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] AOD and Fluid Question


>Here's the scenario:
>
>Early-80's AOD.
>Professionally rebuilt by Ford Mechanic.
>Includes some extras such as B&M Shift Kit and other stuff I cannot
>remember at the moment.
>Was broke in with TYPE F automatic fluid.
>Driven gingerly for 5,000 miles.
>Set for 2 years.
>Soon to be run again.
>
>Now we're getting close to the question.
>Right on the original dipstick it states to run ONLY Dexron/Mercon fluid.
>The topic of mixing fluids was touched upon a little while ago.
>
>What I was wondering was if TYPE F should continue to be used,
>OR should it be changed over when the fluid is changed (which in this case
>will be before running it again).
>
>And if it IS switched to DEXRON/MERCON, would it be advisable even if Type
>F remains in the torque converter during the change.
>
>I had been considering switching it back to what the tranny recomends for
>the simple fact that F (believe it or not) is hard to find around here.
>Also, full-synthetic tranny fluid is not available in F that I've found,
>which is also something I'm considering.
>
>Tranny experts???
>Type F?
>Dexron/Mercon?
>Synthetic?
>
>I'm open to any thoughts, comments, input, opinions etc.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:45:15 -0900
From: "Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com>
Subject: Re: 352 timing chain

When I did this to my 390 I had the pan off, so I just stuck a socket on
the end of one of the connecting rods to stop the crank so I can torque
to spec.

I don't know if this is the right way to do it, but it is how I solved
that problem.

schu

TWL1911aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey All
> well finaly got around to tearing apart my 352, and it was gonna be a simple
> filter clean out and turned out to be a weekend project. while i had the
> filter & pump off i figured just check the timing chainand see if its tight,
> well low and behold it moved about 3/4 of a inch or so when i poked it with
> the screw driver, so i decided to start tearing stuff off, and now i have to
> get the harmonic balancer off, which always means i need a bigger wrench,
> question is how shuld i go about puytting the new one on anything special,
> because i know it shouldnt be going this smoothly (ya know nothing ever
> happens smoothly with out something breaking) so any info is great thanks!!
> Travis
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 10:48:50 -0900
From: "Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com>
Subject: Re: distributor folly

Been there done that!!! That happened to me when I installed my new
cam...

schu

"J. Doss Halsey" wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I thought I'd vent a little about my frustrating day yesterday. I wanted to
> pull the distributor on my recently rebuilt 390 to take it to a fellow to
> have the advance curve adjusted a little. What should have been a 5 minute
> job turned into about 3 hours when I pulled the distributor and heard a
> clink, clunk as the oil pump drive shaft fell into the pan.
>
> I bought a new shaft (so the little keeper would be tighter). I loosened
> the pan and jacked the engine off its mounts. A few tubafors placed under
> the engine mounts made the whole assembly solid enough to reach into the
> pan and retrieve the shaft. I put it all back together in another half hour
> or so. That little hex shaft with it's silly keeper is not one of Ford's
> better ideas in my book.
>
> Doss Halsey
> '68 F250 rebuilt 390, still trying to get it running just exactly right.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 12:54:11 -0500
Subject: URGENT--I'm outta time.
From: Terry L Pendergrass juno.com>

Hello All,
Some of you might remember me from days of Old, :-) I haven't been on the
list for quite some time. As luck (LOL) would have it, I slipped a
timining chain the other day. So I'm back on for a while.
I tried to line up the cam and crank per the Chilton's manual, but after
I replaced the sprockets and chain and then fired it up, it didn't sound
to healthy. It does run but seems to have quite a bit of noise in the
intake area. I suspect that it isn't lined up correctly. So, I have a few
questions.
'65 Ford F100
352 Cubic Inch
2 barrel
I believe mostly stock.

1. Will the engine run if it is 180deg out? I did put a light on it and
it looks to be 5-10deg ATDC

2. Where does everything need to be, to be correct? ie. #1 piston at top
of stroke, rotor pointing at #1 tower, keyway for crank sprocket pointing
up, metal dowel on cam sprocket at bottom?,

3. Can I be 1 tooth off? Looks good but just unsure. Doesn't sound that
way.

4. The one that I can't think of until I hit the send button.

Thank in Advance,
Terry Pendergrass, KD7HUU
terrypenjuno.com

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: URGENT--I'm outta time.
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:10:28 -0600


> '65 Ford F100
> 352 Cubic Inch
> 2 barrel
> I believe mostly stock.
>
> 1. Will the engine run if it is 180deg out? I did put a light on it and
> it looks to be 5-10deg ATDC
>

Probably not very well ... likely you set the timing with a sloppy chain and
its way off, you want 5-10 BTDC, try dialing that in and see if it gets
worse or better perhaps ?

> 2. Where does everything need to be, to be correct? ie. #1 piston at top
> of stroke, rotor pointing at #1 tower, keyway for crank sprocket pointing
> up, metal dowel on cam sprocket at bottom?,
>

I don't remember, seems like there's dots on the timing gears though, and it
wouldn't be possible to get 180 out if you lined those up would it ?

> 3. Can I be 1 tooth off? Looks good but just unsure. Doesn't sound that
> way.
>

Possibly, this would be a few degrees advanced or retarded wouldn't it?
could be the problem there ...another possibility is that the timing set you
got was for a later one that had some retarded cam timing dialed into it ...
I know the 460's did this, but dunno about the FE's, I don't remember
hearing anything about this, but that doesn't mean it didn't happen.

> 4. The one that I can't think of until I hit the send button.
>

yes. that's it! :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 13:38:56 -0500
Subject: Re: URGENT--I'm outta time.
From: Terry L Pendergrass juno.com>

Bill, good to see you are still here. My address used to be
terrypenzdnetmail.com on this list. I do still have that just didn't use
it this time.

On Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:10:28 -0600 "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
writes:
>
> > '65 Ford F100
> > 352 Cubic Inch
> > 2 barrel
> > I believe mostly stock.
> >
> > 1. Will the engine run if it is 180deg out? I did put a light on
> it and
> > it looks to be 5-10deg ATDC
> >
>
> Probably not very well ... likely you set the timing with a sloppy
> chain and
> its way off, you want 5-10 BTDC, try dialing that in and see if it
> gets
> worse or better perhaps ?

I did that and the noise seems to get worse. I installed a new timing
set(3piece) I think that Chilton's say 6-8 (It didn't say that it was
BTDC) I was pretty sure that's what it was supposed to be.
>
> > 2. Where does everything need to be, to be correct? ie. #1 piston
> at top
> > of stroke, rotor pointing at #1 tower, keyway for crank sprocket
> pointing
> > up, metal dowel on cam sprocket at bottom?,
> >
>
> I don't remember, seems like there's dots on the timing gears
> though, and it
> wouldn't be possible to get 180 out if you lined those up would it ?

That was my thoughts too, but I am having a hard time visualizing this.
:)

>
> > 3. Can I be 1 tooth off? Looks good but just unsure. Doesn't sound
> that
> > way.
> >
>
> Possibly, this would be a few degrees advanced or retarded wouldn't
> it?
My next question on this thought. How am I supposed to know which way to
turn the (cam or crank {which one}) ? Oh, this is so much fun. LOL
> could be the problem there ...another possibility is that the timing
> set you
> got was for a later one that had some retarded cam timing dialed
> into it ...
> I know the 460's did this, but dunno about the FE's, I don't
> remember
> hearing anything about this, but that doesn't mean it didn't happen.
>
> > 4. The one that I can't think of until I hit the send button.
> >
>
> yes. that's it! :)
Still can't think of that question. :)
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>

Terry Pendergrass, KD7HUU
terrypenjuno.com

________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: URGENT--I'm outta time.
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:46:12 -0600

> Bill, good to see you are still here. My address used to be

Thought it might be you, as opposed to someone else :)

> I did that and the noise seems to get worse. I installed a new timing
> set(3piece) I think that Chilton's say 6-8 (It didn't say that it was
> BTDC) I was pretty sure that's what it was supposed to be.

Bummer ... did we ever establish exactly what was ticking ? Is it possible
you've got a failed lifter that's making things look worse than they are ?

> > I don't remember, seems like there's dots on the timing gears
> > though, and it
> > wouldn't be possible to get 180 out if you lined those up would it ?
>
> That was my thoughts too, but I am having a hard time visualizing this.
> :)
>

Well the dot is either on the same side or opposite side of the dowel pin
right? Is there only one hole to put the dowel pin into ? there's no way
to put the gear on upside down (pin won't line up) ... hmmm... you know I
think its possible to be out 180 I guess, but you'd have to rotate the cam
or the crank with the timing chain not hooked up wouldn't you ???? no, you
can't be out 180 'cause its the cam that determines whether its out or
not... the pistons don't know if they're in compression or exhaust strokes
... so its not possible to be 180 off ... especially not if the dots lined
up ...

> > Possibly, this would be a few degrees advanced or retarded wouldn't
> > it?
> My next question on this thought. How am I supposed to know which way to
> turn the (cam or crank {which one}) ? Oh, this is so much fun. LOL

hahahaha ...good question ... since your dist. went to atdc instead of btdc
I'd guess you needed to turn the cam forward a bit ... though I don't
remember which way that is off hand :)

> > > 4. The one that I can't think of until I hit the send button.
> > >
> >
> > yes. that's it! :)
> Still can't think of that question. :)
> >
Well let us know if you do ... I'm sure the answer's hiding in it ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


------------------------------

From: "Robert Gunter" icnpharm.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:01:27 -0800
Subject: Re: First Timer --- Holley 4bbl

Greetings,

I just replace the choke tube which was flanged to the Intake manifold (??) just
below the choke. I had to use a dremmel tool to cut off the rusted out old tube
and widen the flange it was welded onto so I could pound an aftermarket tube
into the hole and attach it to the choke. The after market tube came with a
part to be pounded into the hole (supposedly in the exhaust manifold) with
another part that fit around it to take the pounding. From there I just hooked
it up.

Rob G.


The Mystery Machine is a 77 Ford E250 Quadravan, 460 ci, 3.73 gears with a C6
Tranny.




"Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com> on 02/18/2000 11:05:22 AM

Please respond to 61-79-listford-trucks.com

To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: Robert Gunter/HQ/ICN)

Subject: [61-79-list] Re: First Timer --- Holley 4bbl



Jon,

If the heat tube is a small little pipe about the size of a small straw,
then that is the stock choke stove. It goes from the choke on the carb
to the exhaust manifold on the right side. It doesn't attach to
anything it just sits down there sucking up heat to move the choke. If
you send me the list number for that carb you have, printed right on the
front of the carb horn, I can tell you if it was stock or not. My truck
was a stock 76 390 when I bought it, so I can compare it to my carb.

schu

Jon Beller wrote:
>
> I've been reading the digest for about 6 months now, while waiting to
> bring home my late granddad's '76 F150 390. After doing some work
> already, exhaust man gasket and valve cover gaskets, I noticed a few
> things hanging off the carb (Holley 4 bbl, stock I believe). One of
> them looks like the heat tube, however, there seems to be no place for
> it to attach. Also I noticed that I have two different headers on the
> engine... Was there a place for the heat tube to attach to the original
> header or do I need to scrape away some more grease before I find it
> some where else?
>
> JB
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
==========================================================
To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
message.








------------------------------

From: "Robert Gunter" icnpharm.com>
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 15:03:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Choke Thermostats 101

Greetings All,

I have been following this thread, and have some questions. I recently replaced
my choke stove thinking this was the answer to my prayers. Unfortunately it was
not. I have an electric choke, and the prescribed voltage is at the terminals
when the ignition is on.

Is the choked activated by electric heating, the choke stove, or both?

The fast idle doesn't. I guess I will have to spend some time figuring this
out.

Thanks,

Rob G.


The Mystery Machine is a 77 Ford E250 Quadravan, 460 ci, 3.73 gears with a C6
Tranny.



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 17:19:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?


What happened was Carburator icing. It doesn't have to
be below freezing for this to occur. It can occur as
high as 40F. It occurs in damp, cool(cold) weather. In
fact, if it is real cold it will not happen because
the air is drier. When gasoline vaporizes in the carb
it cools the throttle plate. The throttle plate temp
can go below freezing. At that point ice will form if
the air is very damp. The ice interferes with the flow
of gasoline and the engine stalls. Once the engine
stops, the throttle plate will warm again and the ice
will melt. When the motor reaches operating temp this
will stop. You should take more time to warm the motor
on cold, damp days. Most OE Air Cleaners have a
snorkel and a thermostat on the intake to bring warm
air across the exhaust manifold to prevent this. Do
you have the original air cleaner? I can't explain why
the brakes would lock.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V


>> Do you have an auto or a stick? Was it icy? When
>>you say "cold" and "rain" in the same sentence in
>>Michigan we all figure on icy roads.......:-)
>>
>1.) Auto
>2.) Here in southern california we don't know what
ice >is LOL

> *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
> *~*~Silly boys..trucks are for girls!~*~*

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: GMontgo930aol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:31:11 EST
Subject: 400's Retarded Cam

Ive heard that Ford decided to retard teh camshaft timing for most of the
years the 400's were produced. DOes anybody have teh specs on how much it was
retarded?
I've got a freshly rebuilt 400 that has little to no guts. I was thinking
that if I advance it, it should wake up some. Im just debating as to how much
to go.

George in Fl.

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 23:02:42 EST
Subject: Re: parting out 78 f150

he wants $50.00 for the brake booster, you should be able to buy that new or
rebuilt for not much more than that. have you checked?

thanks, jeff grant

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 23:14:12 EST
Subject: Re: parting out 78 f150

located in georgia, i think the rear is spoken for. sorry.

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 00:08:33 EST
Subject: 78 f150 supercab for parts

i went to look at this truck today, it has alot of the undergood gadgets
that are typically missing, so some of you may have an interest in some of
these items.
it has the manifold heat shield, factory aircleaner, little shields around
the spark plugs, most of the smog stuff is still there except the pump, but
the brackets are still there. the cab is spoken for when all the parts are
stripped. fella seems to be kind of high on some of the parts, but i told him
i'd put it on here.

jeff grant

------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 00:16:20 EST
Subject: swing out windows on supercab

i have seen many 75-79 supercab trucks but i don't recall seeing one with the
swing out back windows until today, are these very common? this truck is a
f250 with the 6' box. haven't seen many of these in 3/4 ton. it also had
cruise and a/c


jeff grant

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:21:06 -0800
From: John Lord home.com>
Subject: Re: NP 435 meltdown

I am running one of those old crunchy 435's Mine has been crunching for 2 years
(as long as i have had the truck) and it is slowly getting worse. I pulled the
cover
off the top one night while replacing the reverse light switch to check the
shift rails and gears. I found that the only problem i have is tired bearings.
I cannot shift from 3rd to 4th unless i wait in neutral until i feel a clunk in
the shifter designating that the shafts have aligned (untorqued) due to bearing
slop.

My father is a machinist (with alot of experience rebuilding manual trannys)
He looked inside just to see what the gears look like, apparently the only
worries
are worn syncros (suprizingly mine look good after 25 years in a 4x4 bush truck)
and to see if the teeth have worn out (the hardened teeth can work harden over
time becoming brittle and flake or chip).

I have priced all the replacement parts i need and have found that it is alot
cheaper than buying a used one. the only reason i have not done the job is that
i have been trying to locate a good deal on an old clark 5 spd.

All of the bearings and seals are standard sizes available by the part numbers
on the bearings (in stock) at my local supplier of industrial bearings and at
well under the cost of going to an auto parts store. So i recommend rebuilding
it.

Norville wrote:

> It _was_ the last thing I hadn't replaced this year...
>
> Got a good, crunchy noise out of the tranny yesterday - pretty sure it was
> the input shaft bearings saying goodbye.
>
> Am guessing that the transmission was run dry at some point to cause this
> bearing failure. When I swapped motors a couple of months back I drained
> the old, multi-colored fluid and put in gear fluid 85w-90 (should probably
> have looked harder for 50w synthetic engine oil, right?).
>
> The bearings were already whining just a little when clutch was disengaged -
> barely noticeable - then the abrupt change to crunchiness. It still shifts
> ok - guess the gears and synchros haven't been affected yet (wishful
> thinking?).
>
> Anybody in California know of a yard with a bunch of these used that I can
> put in while the other is being rebuilt? Had a major trip beginning this
> weekend...
>
> Any opinions on rebuilding the old one vs. finding a used one to rebuild?
>
> Jeff
>
> 79 Bronco
> 400M, 4spd
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

From: JJJJJGRANTaol.com
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 00:20:12 EST
Subject: f250 4x4 for sale cheap

bad news is, its a 1983, could be used for to convert an older truck to 4x4,
the 460 is out and needs a sleeve, has a fresh C6, will take 700.00 for it.
its in georgia.

jeff grant

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 21:10:23 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny" wenet.net>
Subject: Pulling to the right

What's going on here? This morning whenever I'd hit the brakes, the
truck would pull very strongly to the left. It does this sometimes,
either to the left or the right, depending on its mood. I parked it
while I was at work, and after work I start it up expecting to find it
still doing it, but lo and behold the brakes work fine now. No pulling
at all to either side.
How is this possible?

Another question: When you "balance the brakes" by backing up and
braking a couple of times, what exactly are you doing? Balancing them in
what way?

Denny
'72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 22:33:43 -0900
From: "Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com>
Subject: sounds of my truck with the new cam

List people,

Some of you might remember me talking about which cam to buy on the list
a while back, well anyway I finally got a 272 crane cam installed and
just posted a wav file of my truck on my web site. Check it out and
tell me what you think...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://odoa4.odoa.org/truck.zip

schu

------------------------------

From: "Deacon" earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone have Deacon's address?
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 01:02:03 -0800

Sure, I have it. :] I'm using my earthlink server until I can get my
ford-trucks working. I didn't want to bother you during the change over.


Later!

Deacon

deconbluford-trucks.com
deconbluearthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~deconblu/



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 03:47:55 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: distributor folly

I use Milodon shafts. They can't come out because they're too big to fit
through the hole, can't rise enough to come out of the pump. They are
also muck more stable, especially with high volume or pressure pumps.

George



"J. Doss Halsey" wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I thought I'd vent a little about my frustrating day yesterday. I wanted to
> pull the distributor on my recently rebuilt 390 to take it to a fellow to
> have the advance curve adjusted a little. What should have been a 5 minute
> job turned into about 3 hours when I pulled the distributor and heard a
> clink, clunk as the oil pump drive shaft fell into the pan.
>
> I bought a new shaft (so the little keeper would be tighter). I loosened
> the pan and jacked the engine off its mounts. A few tubafors placed under
> the engine mounts made the whole assembly solid enough to reach into the
> pan and retrieve the shaft. I put it all back together in another half hour
> or so. That little hex shaft with it's silly keeper is not one of Ford's
> better ideas in my book.
>
> Doss Halsey
> '68 F250 rebuilt 390, still trying to get it running just exactly right.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 04:01:41 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Pulling to the right

My 71 does the same thing. When I first got it I did a thorough brake
job replacing everything but the hard lines and backing plates. The
latter really need it as they are grooved where the shoes contact them.
Pulling is very slight, always to the left and only after driving more
than a half hour. I rarely drive that far and I plan on a disk
conversion soon so I haven't dug any deeper into the system (not much
left to dig into).

When you back up and hit the brakes you are adjusting, not balancing.
The movement of the shoes causes a lever to move the adjusting wheel one
tooth each time (that is if everything is working right and moving
freely). If one wheel is adjusting properly and the other side not the
vehicle will slowly start pulling. This is not our problem because it
would consistently pull in the same direction.

George

"Kiernan, Denny" wrote:
>
> What's going on here? This morning whenever I'd hit the brakes, the
> truck would pull very strongly to the left. It does this sometimes,
> either to the left or the right, depending on its mood. I parked it
> while I was at work, and after work I start it up expecting to find it
> still doing it, but lo and behold the brakes work fine now. No pulling
> at all to either side.
> How is this possible?
>
> Another question: When you "balance the brakes" by backing up and
> braking a couple of times, what exactly are you doing? Balancing them in
> what way?
>
> Denny
> '72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: NP 435 meltdown
Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 07:09:28 -0500

Tom's Broncos will ship you one for around $325 plus shipping. They also
have rebuilt ones and all the parts to fix them.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>Anybody in California know of a yard with a bunch of these
>used that I can
>put in while the other is being rebuilt? Had a major trip
>beginning this
>weekend...

------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #14
**********************************
----------------------------------------------------------
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List

Send posts to small-listford-trucks.com

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing
list, send an email to:

listarford-trucks.com

with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of
the message.

Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
----------------------------------------------------------

....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.