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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:06:22 -0500 (EST)
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 07:06:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #13
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 21 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 013

In This Issue:
More streetmaster question
Max tire size for Econoline 300? Min tire size for 9.75"
Re: More streetmaster question
Re: BRAKES
Re: Car prices
Re: More streetmaster question
Re: Need Sources for 429/460 Exhaust Manifolds (not
Re: parting out 78 f150
Re: Steering shaft comment
Re: parting out 78 f150
Re: Choke tubre
4V FE blocks
Re: 4V FE blocks
Re: 4V FE blocks
(61-79-List) Re: Draining my battery UPDATE
Re: Draining my battery UPDATE
Re: (61-79-List) Re: Draining my battery UPDATE
Re: Max tire size for Econoline 300? Min tire size
Re: 4V FE blocks
Re: Replacement floor panels ?
WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?
Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?
AOD and Fluid Question
Re: Max tire size for Econoline 300? Min tire size for
Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?
352 timing chain
Re: More streetmaster question
Re: AOD and Fluid Question
Re: 352 Timing Chain
Edelbrock- Streetmaster 460 Intake
I love the rain!
Re: ADMIN: Pictorial updated
Re: 4V FE blocks

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "GOLDHUNTER" h2net.net>
Subject: More streetmaster question
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 22:42:24 -0700

I looked on Edelbrock site for Streetmaster460 info,,,they didnt have
anything since they dont apparently make it anymore,,,,,,,,still waiting for
info if anybody has it.....Thanks,,,,,Colorado Rick


------------------------------

From: "Matt Tobin" home.com>
Subject: Max tire size for Econoline 300? Min tire size for 9.75"
Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 23:35:26 -0800

I got a set of 8 lug slotted aluminum mags from a buddy, and wanted to put
them on my '70 Econoline chassis motorhome. Problem is they look way too
big with the 10x16.5 Michelins that are on the wheels now. I currently have
8.75" and 8.5" wide tires in great shape, but I doubt I can mount them on
the 9.75" wide wheels. Anybody know the max. tire size the vehicle can
take? What about the min. tire size for this wheel?

Barring that, any body in western Wa. need a set of slotted alloys in good
shape?

Thanks,

Matt
matttobin home.com


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 03:45:38 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: More streetmaster question

I had a streetmaster 390 and would guess they are of the same design.
They came out in the late 70s and were single plane. I was very
disappointed in mine. I used it in a 63 Galaxie and it had no low end
compared to the stocker. Single planes are generally used for race only
but this one was supposed to be the best of both worlds. It had very
small ports and that was supposed to make up for the lack of runner
length. IMHO it was worthless on a 390 (I yanked it after a couple of
months and put it on a shelf until a few months ago when I sold it on
ebay for $158). It may work better on the 460 because of the abundance
of torque but I think it would still move the torque curve way up and in
a truck you need it down low.

So, if it's a X shaped single plane my advice would be to pass on it. If
you have it already, put it up on ebay and put the money toward a more
modern design intake. Just my opinion.

George

GOLDHUNTER wrote:
>
> I looked on Edelbrock site for Streetmaster460 info,,,they didnt have
> anything since they dont apparently make it anymore,,,,,,,,still waiting for
> info if anybody has it.....Thanks,,,,,Colorado Rick
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: BRAKES
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 07:18:05 -0500

Just be carefull if you take one apart that does have different size pistons
because there is a step in the bore and the front piston will not go in
without a shim stock sleeve to guide it past the step.......don't ask....:-(

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I've had a mc apart. The next time mine dies I'm going to take it apart

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Car prices
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 07:25:11 -0500

Before I went into the service in 65 I priced a brand new, bergundy Galaxy
with hypo 390, 4 speed , locker, fancy tires, convertible top for $4200
(might have been $4500). Seems like that included white leather too, not
sure now.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>bought a 1967 Galaxie 500 2 dr HT with FE 390(335 horsepower),
>automatic,
>4bbl, dual exhaust and power steering and air conditioning and
>vinyl roof
>for $3300+ change. Bought these brand spanking new off the

------------------------------

From: "Charles T." hal-pc.org>
Subject: Re: More streetmaster question
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 07:15:48 -0800

> I looked on Edelbrock site for Streetmaster460 info,,,they didnt have
> anything since they dont apparently make it anymore,,,,,,,,still waiting
for
> info if anybody has it.....Thanks,,,,,Colorado Rick
>
I looked there too. I sent them an email requesting the specs and another
member(patsplace) is calling them today. Hopefully, we will know some
answers soon. We will post the results.

CharlesT.


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Need Sources for 429/460 Exhaust Manifolds (not
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 07:36:18 -0500

Left side is common, same as car, right side is very rare, only used in
trucks. Virtually all left side 429/460 manifolds are the same but there
are different casting designs on the outside of course as you mentioned.

These can be successfully brazed or welded, I've done several and got more
miles out of them but they will eventually crack again. One reason they
crack is because people don't understand how to install them properly.
There is a special method for this, guaranteed to prevent cracking (unless
the manifold is seriously flawed of course :-))

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>relatively smooth round casting, this one had raised cast
>"ribs" running lengthwise down the outside of it, which the
>
>anyone recommend a good source for these (preferably the
>improved type, but the original type is fine, too)? It was

------------------------------

From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:24:18 EST
Subject: Re: parting out 78 f150

rust free long box perhaps? man am i dreamin huh? oh well thought i'd try ,

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Steering shaft comment
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:10:15 -0500

Gentlemen, the slip joint may well be in there to absorb some movement in an
impact but the design of the shaft is essentially due to the fact that the
steering box is ahead of the axle so the column can not be made to line up
with the input shaft of the steering box. This necessitates that a second
shaft be between them with a ujoint in it.

Remember 2wd frames operate the same way relative to the bodies as the 4wd
so body/frame flex is not really a concern. 2wd's get along fine with just
a rag joint between the column and box. The ford engineers undubtedly took
advantage of this link to add a safety feature to the truck where no
opportunity existed in the 2wd's which eventually did wind up with
accordioned columns. It may also have been an assy line requirement to
install them more easily.

The rag joint will absorb quite a bit of flex so you could get by with a
solid shaft there IMHO but the safety feature would be lost and installation
would be more difficult. I've concluded, after giving this a little
thought, that the rag joint should stay there as a cushion. It is designed
to have virtually no radial movement except under considerable force so for
normal driving will not contribute one tiny bit of movement or play in the
steering if in good condition and properly installed with the sheet metal
guides etc...

The slip joint is designed to have room in it but not radial play. This is
taken up by a flat spring inside the tube which rests against the flat on
the inner shaft. Installing a heavier flat spring or something that will do
the same job (I used a piece of rubber in it's place) will restore it's
proper operation. There should be no un-preloaded free play in that joint
when properly set up but you can force a little play with pliers even when
it's correct.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>I happen to agree with everything Mark just said:
>
>I for one believe, yeah, you can get away with just a rag
>joint and a solid
>shaft, after all, most of them were rusted solid anyway, but I
>personally
>wouldn't go with a hard-mount system, there HAS to be some flex there,
>especially the more you twist and turn your frame and body.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:24:07 -0600
From: "Kelley McDaniel" mercuryems.com>
Subject: Re: parting out 78 f150


Where is it? I need an axle, housing and all.

Kelley in Kansas

> ------------------------------
>
> From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
> Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 00:44:44 EST
> Subject: parting out 78 f150
>
> i have a friend parting out a 78 f150 , if anyone needs anything let me know.
>
> jeff grant


------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Choke tubre
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 10:34:37 -0500

I figered I'd have to go to the exhaust manifold somehow :-) That is
actually a fairly simple but elegant way to do this, thanks Azie :-) I need
to make a hot air stove out of some sheet metal anyway so will probably
incorporate it into that :-)

With this gas crunch going on now this may actually take precidence over
cleaning up the shop and making more shelves etc....:-( I may have to wrest
the bird from my son and start driving it to work.....:-( He's borrowing
it til he gets his truck back on the road but since he has no
money.......:-(

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>When I was running headers on my FE's there was no place to connect the
>tube too, cause on the FE it is in the exhaust manifolds and not the
>crossover of the intake. I would run a few turns of copper
>tubing around
>one of the header pipes and connect it to the steel asbestos
>covered choke

------------------------------

From: Rubberducky23 webtv.net (Danny Ling)
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:10:25 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 4V FE blocks

I just came across a 77 F250 Highboy for sale (same as mine) but the
motor has been swapped to an FE block of some kind. The owner has no
idea what it is (he thought it was a 351M). About the only
distinguishing feature is it has a factory Ford intake set up for a
Rochestor QuadreJet carb. the only FE blocks I could think of that came
with 4V's from the factory is the 390GT, 427 and 428 (I'm sure its not a
427.) I'd love your help in trying to identify this motor to determine
whether I will buy it or not.

Thanks for your help... Danny Ling


------------------------------

From: TBeeee aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 10:58:58 EST
Subject: Re: 4V FE blocks

In a message dated 2/21/00 10:56:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Rubberducky23 webtv.net writes:

> he only FE blocks I could think of that came
> with 4V's from the factory is the 390GT, 427 and 428 (I'm sure its not a
> 427.) I'd love your help in trying to identify this motor to determine
> whether I will buy it or not.

Why not simply use the dowel trick to measure the stroke? You can also get
the casting code from behind the starter. The date code should be cast in
somewhere by the oil filter housing. These steps should help narrow thinks
down a little.

Stock Man
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

------------------------------

From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: Re: 4V FE blocks
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:17:14 -0800 (PST)

Danny Ling wrote:
> ... the only FE blocks I could think of that came
> with 4V's from the factory is the 390GT, 427 and 428 (I'm sure its not a
> 427.) I'd love your help in trying to identify this motor to determine
> whether I will buy it or not.

FWIW, I have a book that says a 390 4V was optional on 2WD F-150's in
1975. My previous truck, a '74 Supercab had a cast iron 4V intake
(I still have the manifold) that I am sure was not original for that
truck.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

------------------------------

From: craig001 mc.duke.edu
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 11:36:27 -0500
Subject: (61-79-List) Re: Draining my battery UPDATE



Thanks for the many helpful replies. I have the problem of my battery being
drained at 2.5 amps even if all the fuses are pulled. The likely culpret seemed
the voltage reg but a new one failed to fix the problem. I probed around with my
ohm-meter and discovered that there is only 4.8 ohms between the FIELD and
GROUND terminals on the (new) alternator. This would correspond to the right
amperage being drawn (I=V/R). So, does anyone know what the resistance should be
between FIELD and GROUND on the alt? It appears that the FIELD terminal is
shorted to the BATTERY terminal. Should this be? Does anyone have a circuit
diagram that shows the correct hookups between the Bat, Alt. and Voltage Reg? I
only have a Clymer manual and it has a TERRIBLE electrical section. I'm trying
to educate myself before I bring it back to the shop that replaced my
alternator.

This is a '70 F100 I6 300 btw.

Thanks,

Damian



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:02:31 -0800
From: Don Grossman pacific.net>
Subject: Re: Draining my battery UPDATE

craig001 mc.duke.edu wrote:
>
So, does anyone know what the resistance should be
> between FIELD and GROUND on the alt? It appears that the FIELD terminal is
> shorted to the BATTERY terminal. Should this be? Does anyone have a circuit
> diagram that shows the correct hookups between the Bat, Alt. and Voltage Reg?
> This is a '70 F100 I6 300 btw.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Damian
>

I would tend to thing that the resistance should be infinite or as close
as could be between the field and the ground. As for the field the the
battery it should only have power when the key is in the run position.
A shorted out rebuilt alternator would not be a first. I replaced one
for a friend that completely grounded itself internally and in the
process blew out almost every fuse in the truck. Put a good fusible
link in there in case there was a next time.
--
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: (61-79-List) Re: Draining my battery UPDATE
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 12:17:11 -0500

That sounds like a diode issue. Current should not be able to flow in
reverse through the alternator. (not sure about field to ground though??)
In the old days there was a switch in the regulator to prevent this when the
engine was shut off, operated by a coil (a relay). In alternators there are
diodes (one way check valves) to rectify the current and also prevent the
battery from backing up through the alternator. Diodes have a "Breakover
voltage" which will allow current to flow in the reverse direction if
voltage is over this limit. I'm not an electronics expert but I seems
reasonable that this can be damaged and reduced without completely
destroying the diode in which case it would be possible for some voltage to
leak over them. Usually when they break down the system will not charge
correctly and you will get strange voltage readings in DC mode when the
engine is running.

Some alternators have some functions built into the alternator and some have
them built into a separate regulator but virtually all have the one way
diodes built into the alternator itself.

Try disconnecting one wire after another on the alternator or just
disconnect the alternator wire from the start relay and see if it still
shows amparage drain etc.....The main power line for ACC and ignition
usually comes off the armature terminal of the alternator. If you can
separtate them there you should be able to isolate the drain.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>battery being
>drained at 2.5 amps even if all the fuses are pulled. The

>ohm-meter and discovered that there is only 4.8 ohms between
>the FIELD and
>GROUND terminals on the (new) alternator. This would

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Max tire size for Econoline 300? Min tire size
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 12:44:22 -0500

9.75 is essentially a "10"" wheel so you would be stretching things to put
anything smaller than a 12.50 on them. Basic rule of thumb is rim should be
2" less than tire cross section at it's widest point (not the tread). A
12.50-33-16.5 tire has a 12.5" cross section and about an 11" tread
typically and will work well on either an 8" or 10" wheel. Going wider
would put the tire in danger of pulling the bead off the rim on a hard bump,
going narrower can do the same thing by causeing the bead to roll over and
let the air out. Any time you cause the bottom of the bead that contacts
the periphery of the rim bead area to pull either way from flat puts it at
risk. Being rubber there is a certain amount of leeway but there are
limits, as I said :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>big with the 10x16.5 Michelins that are on the wheels now. I
>currently have
>8.75" and 8.5" wide tires in great shape, but I doubt I can
>mount them on
>the 9.75" wide wheels. Anybody know the max. tire size the vehicle can
>take? What about the min. tire size for this wheel?

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: 4V FE blocks
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 12:50:29 -0500

In a list of rebuild carbs I once looked at there was only one referance to
the quadrajet for a 68 something or other, 428, I believe so there was a
quadrajet manifold made for the FE engine from the factory. May have been
aluminum, not sure and made by Holley or someone else rather than Ford but
it was a stock carb in that application, just don't recall for sure which
application it was. Only other spread bore I've seen is the OEM,
Motorcraft versions which have a different mount pattern. Don't know if
these were ever used on the FE's but they came stock on the 351C, 429 and
460.

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>> he only FE blocks I could think of that came
>> with 4V's from the factory is the 390GT, 427 and 428 (I'm
>sure its not a
>> 427.)

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: Replacement floor panels ?
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 13:57:25 -0500

Floors are pretty easy to make from scratch if you have welding skills but
you have to plan on getting interior stuff out of the way so you can work,
including the dash depending on how serious your rust problem is.

I made a trunk floor for a 55 bird once with my trusty, home built 5' break.
I was even able to put in the humps and match them to the rest of the floor.
Looked pretty cool when I was done :-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>is "more" like the later models? In every catalog I have they
>don't show the
>65/66 with the 67-72.(actually, they show nothing for 65/66's at all)
> I currently only have a 64, and I've had a 63, so I know those are the
>same, but I don't know about the 61& 62. Not only that, but is the
>"integral" cab the same as the std. cab? (think so but not

------------------------------

From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 14:41:22 EST
Subject: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?

Hey y'all! I'm still alive; just lurkin lately cuz I haven't had much to say,
but now I do LOL Ok, another lil mystery for y'all to figure out: I was on my
way to school this morning and after
driving for about 2 minutes when I was about to pull into the school driveway
a bad thing happened. idling at a stop light I was idling really slow, it was almost sputtering>
Then, my wheel locked up, my brake locked up, my engine sputtered and died! I
put it in park and started it up about 15 seconds later and it was OK, so
what's the deal? I am thinking maybe I didn't warm it up enough this morning?
But why would stalling out cause my tire and brakes to lock up??

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys..trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*

------------------------------

From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" visteon.com>
Subject: Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 14:52:19 -0500

Do you have an auto or a stick? Was it icy? When you say "cold" and "rain"
in the same sentence in Michigan we all figure on icy roads.......:-)

--
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

>a bad thing happened. >earlier when I was
>idling at a stop light I was idling really slow, it was almost
>sputtering>
>Then, my wheel locked up, my brake locked up, my engine
>sputtered and died! I
>put it in park and started it up about 15 seconds later and it
>was OK, so
>what's the deal? I am thinking maybe I didn't warm it up
>enough this morning?
>But why would stalling out cause my tire and brakes to lock up??

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 14:59:24 -0500
From: Travis McGlaughlin hood.edu>
Subject: AOD and Fluid Question

Here's the scenario:

Early-80's AOD.
Professionally rebuilt by Ford Mechanic.
Includes some extras such as B&M Shift Kit and other stuff I cannot
remember at the moment.
Was broke in with TYPE F automatic fluid.
Driven gingerly for 5,000 miles.
Set for 2 years.
Soon to be run again.

Now we're getting close to the question.
Right on the original dipstick it states to run ONLY Dexron/Mercon fluid.
The topic of mixing fluids was touched upon a little while ago.

What I was wondering was if TYPE F should continue to be used,
OR should it be changed over when the fluid is changed (which in this case
will be before running it again).

And if it IS switched to DEXRON/MERCON, would it be advisable even if Type
F remains in the torque converter during the change.

I had been considering switching it back to what the tranny recomends for
the simple fact that F (believe it or not) is hard to find around here.
Also, full-synthetic tranny fluid is not available in F that I've found,
which is also something I'm considering.

Tranny experts???
Type F?
Dexron/Mercon?
Synthetic?

I'm open to any thoughts, comments, input, opinions etc.

Thanks in advance.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 15:05:05 -0800
From: Mike Pacheco uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Max tire size for Econoline 300? Min tire size for

Matt, I have a friend that just bot a 68 F-250 that is looking for slotted
mags..give him a call, his name is Mark 206-938-7661. Tell him Mike in Burien
said to give him a call.

Mike

Matt Tobin wrote:

> I got a set of 8 lug slotted aluminum mags from a buddy, and wanted to put
> them on my '70 Econoline chassis motorhome. Problem is they look way too
> big with the 10x16.5 Michelins that are on the wheels now. I currently have
> 8.75" and 8.5" wide tires in great shape, but I doubt I can mount them on
> the 9.75" wide wheels. Anybody know the max. tire size the vehicle can
> take? What about the min. tire size for this wheel?
>
> Barring that, any body in western Wa. need a set of slotted alloys in good
> shape?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt
> matttobinhome.com
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.


------------------------------

From: Bad4dFillyaol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 18:12:14 EST
Subject: Re: WAS IT JUST A COLD MORNIN'?

In a message dated 02/21/2000 7:53:40 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
gpeters3visteon.com writes:

<< Do you have an auto or a stick? Was it icy? When you say "cold" and
"rain"
in the same sentence in Michigan we all figure on icy roads.......:-) >>
1.) Auto
2.) Here in southern california we don't know what ice is LOL

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys..trucks are for girls!~*~*

------------------------------

From: TWL1911aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 19:49:05 EST
Subject: 352 timing chain

Hey All
well finaly got around to tearing apart my 352, and it was gonna be a simple
filter clean out and turned out to be a weekend project. while i had the
filter & pump off i figured just check the timing chainand see if its tight,
well low and behold it moved about 3/4 of a inch or so when i poked it with
the screw driver, so i decided to start tearing stuff off, and now i have to
get the harmonic balancer off, which always means i need a bigger wrench,
question is how shuld i go about puytting the new one on anything special,
because i know it shouldnt be going this smoothly (ya know nothing ever
happens smoothly with out something breaking) so any info is great thanks!!
Travis

------------------------------

From: Clemstang1aol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 20:04:25 EST
Subject: Re: More streetmaster question

I still have and Streetmaster and a Performer RPM intake would get rid of
both....make me an offer if you like....But have run the Stealth intake and
for the time being I would run it again. Was runnning 8.90 ets 1/8 mile with
a 750 Holly 9:1 comp. open chamber ported and polished D3VE head. A custom
ground 268/280 .522 lift cam with a 3.89 gear. In a full long bed F-150 and
got a 7.58ets 1/8 with a 150 shot of N2O. Really made them Mustang guys on
the street real mad(hehehe) And I was also pulling 13-14 MPG outta the truck.
I really liked the Stealth and will be using it again on my motor that I'm
getting ready to drop in my 79 F-150 Lariat(460) can't wait to go out and
play again......LOL

------------------------------

From: "Jim McCarty" hillconet.net>
Subject: Re: AOD and Fluid Question
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 19:25:18 -0600

----- Original Message -----
From: "Travis McGlaughlin" hood.edu>
To: <61-79-listford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:59 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] AOD and Fluid Question


>
> I had been considering switching it back to what the tranny recomends for
> the simple fact that F (believe it or not) is hard to find around here.
> Also, full-synthetic tranny fluid is not available in F that I've found,
> which is also something I'm considering.
>
The brand of synthetic trans fluid that I run will mix/blend with any
petroleum based fluid. Check with an experienced oil dealership
(experienced with synthetic) and see what they say. Personally, I think it
will blend - but I wouldn't bet my transmission on a single e-mail post
without checkingn with the experts.

I've blended it successfully many times, but always with a GM product. My
'73 Ford C6 was switched to synthetic when it was out and I could drain the
torque converter.

Jim McCarty


------------------------------

From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 352 Timing Chain
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:44:33 PST

Twl1911 wrot

snip>
"i know it shouldnt be going this smoothly (ya know nothing ever
happens smoothly with out something breaking) so any info is great thanks!!"
snip<

Just finished doing the same thing on one of mine, went together like a
dream and worked great.


Good Luck,

Chris
'67 F100 352 (under restore)
'72 F100 390 (for sale)


______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Charles T." hal-pc.org>
Subject: Edelbrock- Streetmaster 460 Intake
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 19:46:04 -0800


OK here is the word straight from Edelbrock:

"The Streetmaster manifold was made for stock engines only for fuel economy.
it has a RPM range of idle-4500 rpm.
No flow data available."

Hope this helps,
CharlesT




------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORDaol.com
Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 22:32:58 EST
Subject: I love the rain!

Well folks, I've had one expensive weekend! Started Sunday night, went into
an area on the south end of town known as the swamps, had some fun roosting
mud. Found out that Sport Kings have week sidewalls, but also found out that
dispite popular belief, plugs will hold in a sidewall. I dont however
recomend this for highway use, just to get out of the brush. Today was fun,
because of the large amount of rain, work was closed, so we got to play.
Pulled one of the big U-Hauls out of a dirt lot, impressed me as much as the
guy I rescued. Then we headed out to the dunes. I tell ya, anyone that gets
stuck in wet sand needs to stay on the pavement, I had my 2wd blastin all
over those dunes! Motor still runnin too, although the knockin is a lil
louder. Had a few lil probs, namely a blown brake line, jumped batter, and a
blown hose, but all were trail repaired in a few min. NEVER WHEEL ALONE.
Without my buddy Ronnie and his Bronco (which we just finished puttin a 460
into) I would still be stuck lookin at all the water draining out of my
radiator. Also on this cruise was my Brother (Spyder2) testing out the 4wd
in his new 2000 Ranger. That lil 4.0 runs pretty good. And now its got a
few nice mud spots on it to confirm that although small, its still a truck.
Well I gotta run, but yall have fun, and keep the rubber side down.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"

------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: Pictorial updated
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 04:07:45 -0800

Thanks Ken. I know there is plenty of work happening behind the scenes that
we don't usually see. I don't know if we say it enough but Thanks. And in
the spirit of the old beer commercial -- "I really love ya man!!!" :0)

Tom H

> -----Original Message-----

> The pictorial has been updated. Photos sent in from November
> 15th through Feb 15th have been added. If you didn't get an
> email saying yours has been added, then it hasn't so please
> don't email me about it as I'm been absolutely swamped with
> work.
>
> I just have to get away from computer as I've been working on
> the web site, ftp and email for 3 and a half weeks and I just
> can't take it anymore.
>
> As it stands, 54 trucks have been added to pictorial. Enjoy!
>
> Ken Payne
> Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
>


------------------------------

From: "Hogan, Tom" kla-tencor.com>
Subject: Re: 4V FE blocks
Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 04:07:47 -0800



> -----Original Message-----

>
> Danny Ling wrote:
> > ... the only FE blocks I could think of that came
> > with 4V's from the factory is the 390GT, 427 and 428 (I'm
> sure its not a
> > 427.) I'd love your help in trying to identify this motor
> to determine
> > whether I will buy it or not.
>
> FWIW, I have a book that says a 390 4V was optional on 2WD F-150's in
> 1975. My previous truck, a '74 Supercab had a cast iron 4V intake
> (I still have the manifold) that I am sure was not original for that
> truck.
>

My dad's 76 F-350 and my 76 F-150 both had Holley 4Vs on them. Both were
stock setups. I don't know about the Rochester though. Was it adapted?
Maybe they came stock on cars.

Tom H

------------------------------

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