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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 06 Jun 2000 07:15:38 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 07:15:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #118 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Mon, 05 Jun 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 118 In This Issue: Re: toploader website??? Re: 77 351 Smog Stuff Re: 77 351 Smog Stuff Re: A Good Trade? Re: 61-79-list Re: toploader website??? Re: Rebuild advice/tips wanted Unibody Tailgate Re: toploader website??? ATF Re: Unibody Tailgate Ford Ind Torque specs Re: toploader website??? Dimming lights Rear main seal` Blasphemy Re: Blasphemy Re: Blasphemy Re: 460 heads Re: Rebuild advice/tips wanted Re: 460 heads I-Beam pivot bushings 272 Identification Re: 460 heads FE tips Re: 460 heads tranny rebuilt shop help Re: Rear main seal` Re: ATF Re: 460 heads Re: Gas milage power steering woes Re: FE tips Re: All Ford Events - For June 2000 All Ford Events - For June 2000 Re: power steering woes ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 09:43:01 -0500 From: Stu Varner Subject: Re: toploader website??? Bill, I located one this weekend, hidden in my favorite yard. He was not very easy to let go of it. Here is the part number on it: RUG J2 from a 67 Fairlane 390 GT. 28 spline wide ratio and it is a short one at 24 inches long. Now to find a bell housinf that works with an FE. It is complete down to the shifter but it is missing the tailshaft yoke. What clutch fork etc did you use?? I want all the gory details. You can email me off list if you want. I am sure I will be calling on you for some advice with this one. The plans are to Prostreet the 68 with either a 410 or 428. Fourlink 9 inch locking rear, Mustang II etc. All the fun stuff for a mildly wild fun truck. I know it will be 2 to 3 years in the making at the very least. I am suppsoed to get my new swb frame from a 67 in the next few weeks too so I can start on the chasis work before too much longer. Thanks for the site. I will check him out. Stu Nuke GM! http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm (for sale!) At 10:01 AM 6/5/00 -0400, you wrote: >Stu, >I believe the reference was to Dan Williams, in North Carolina. Dan helped >me get through a Toploader with a mismatched extension housing. I found the >Toploader for a good price, but then discovered why (it had the wrong >extension >housing, and thus wouldn't accept a speedo gear). Dan knew what was wrong, >had the correct extension housing, and helped me out immeasurably. This guy >knows his Toploaders and isn't afraid to answer questions and chat on the >phone. > >His website is: (http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://toploadertransmissions.com/toploaderinfo.htm) > >I assume you're looking to put a Toploader in your 68? If you are, I >converted >my 69 F100 2wd from a three speed to a Toploader 4 speed a few years ago. >If you need any help/advice, feel free to drop a line. > >Ohio Bill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 09:10:36 -0600 From: "Richard Currit" Subject: Re: 77 351 Smog Stuff >We're looking for a diagram of the proper hose routing to hook all this crap up. The reason >for this exersize is that it has to pass a visual inspection. Of course, as soon as the >inspection is over, this stuff will come off.... Hey Jeff, wouldn't it be a lot easier to just drive over to Grand Junction and register it there??? High Plains Richard (who lived for quite a while on the Western Slope) '72 F-100, 300I6 ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 14:19:37 GMT Subject: Re: 77 351 Smog Stuff > to be a "Spark Delay Valve", a "Ported Vacuum Switch", etc. There's also a "dashpot" or something similar with a wire coming out of the back of it..... > >We're looking for a diagram of the proper hose routing to hook all this crap up. The reason for this exersize is that it has to pass a visual inspection. Of course, as soon as the inspection is over, this stuff will come off.... > Heh, if its just a visual just run lines everywhere, they won't know where they came from or are supposed to go if you don't ;) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 14:31:08 GMT Subject: Re: A Good Trade? >It looks like its going to cost me about $120 for the >two goats. Somewhat to my dismay however... the truck is actually a 1955 >F-600 Custom with dual wheels that was apparently at one time a grain truck. >I'm not sure if it is even close to running or not and is in pretty rough >shape. Most of the emblems, instrument panel, etc. is in good shape though. >Do you guys think its a good deal and a good restoration project? hahaha, that's great. If I had the room, I'd love to have one of these beefy trucks, and since I'm in a college town, that $120 can be made up in the first semester helping college students move across town or whatever it is they seem to move to every semester :) Not to mention the fun you can have ... hehehehe ... I'll bet you can get a good sized wading pool in the back of one of those too ;) > I was >wondering if the cab was the same size as the regular pickups, then perhaps I >could use it as parts for a pickup of the same year. What do you guys think? > If I remember right they share some components with the regular trucks, and some are unique, so it'll be hit or miss, try and compare the old and new parts closely ... Good luck with the project! Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:36:45 -0700 From: Brian Koss Subject: Re: 61-79-list >I need to know if the '66 4x4 uses the same radiator support piece >that the 4x2 uses . the 4x4 uses the older style cab and fender liners. >there is not enough of the existing support to measure for comparison The 66 F250 4x4 shares the same frame as the pre 65 trucks. I believe the frame spacing is different as the cabs do not interchange. The 66 F100 4x4 is the same as the 4x2 except the inner fenders are trimed on the bottom to fit the frame and steering box and the lower attachment point for the inner fenders on the core support are different. I know this because I am using a 4x2 core support and inner fenders on my 66 f100 4x4 restoration. I could probably come up with a core support for the 66 f250 4x4. There used to be one in a local junk yard. If your interested contact me off line. ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 15:45:16 GMT Subject: Re: toploader website??? >Here is the part number on it: RUG J2 from a 67 Fairlane 390 GT. 28 >spline wide ratio and it is a short one at 24 inches long. Now to find a >bell housinf that works with an FE. It is complete down to the shifter but >it is missing the tailshaft yoke. Uhm, Stu ... I'm confused, but if its from a 390 GT Fairlane, then won't it have an FE bellhousing on it ??? Or did the trucks use a different housing than the cars even when they were FE's ? Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 15:47:53 GMT Subject: Re: Rebuild advice/tips wanted >My plans are to either pull out the current one or either purchase >another 360 or 390 block and rebuild that up. I dont need any thing >monstrous but since I am at it I wouldn't mind adding a little more kick >to it. At least I want to add a 4 barrel and maybe cam. > Sounds like you've gotten some great advice already. Thought I'd pass along the site where I documented my rebuild. Like you I didn't need anything monsterous, but got something pretty okay in the end. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish/rebuild.html The only thing I'd probably do different is lower the compression ratio a bit more, 9.6+ is just too much for these heads (dunno what it really is, but its 9.5:1 pistons with a slightly decked block and shaved head) Good luck! Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 12:57:36 -0400 From: Ted Wnorowski Subject: Unibody Tailgate Good afternoon all, This was in "This Old Truck" that came this morning: Tailgate For Ford 61/63 unibody pickup. Very good condition, $200. Tom Stokopf, 2449 Fairview Ave., Waverly, IA 50677. ph, 319-352-1010, after 8:00 p.m. Also this URL has a bunch of different vehicles he's getting rid of. NO PARTS, just whole vehicles. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://web.frontier.net/heartland/index.html#61 Ted Wnorowski Flat Rock, OH ' 64 F-250 352 transplant 4 speed ' 63 F-100 parts truck ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 13:06:35 -0500 From: Stu Varner Subject: Re: toploader website??? At 03:45 PM 6/5/00 GMT, you wrote: >>Here is the part number on it: RUG J2 from a 67 Fairlane 390 GT. 28 >>spline wide ratio and it is a short one at 24 inches long. Now to find a >>bell housinf that works with an FE. It is complete down to the shifter but > >>it is missing the tailshaft yoke. > >Uhm, Stu ... I'm confused, but if its from a 390 GT Fairlane, then won't it >have an FE bellhousing on it ??? Or did the trucks use a different housing >than the cars even when they were FE's ? > Bill, I think the 4 speed car toploaders and NP435's use a different bellhousing for FE's. The toploaders sometimes used a 4 or 5 bolt mounting pattern to the bellhousing depending on which car tooploader a person had. Car vs. truck. Am I crazy?? Anyone know this for sure?? Stu Nuke GM! http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm (for sale!!!) ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" Subject: ATF Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:18:23 -0500 Travis McG. writes: >>There was one part that I was unsure about. I was asking of the different gear lubes they carry. I had mentioned I was driving a 77 F-150 3 speed standard ( <---- FTE content), and a 5 speed Escort GT. They said that both those gearboxes "are typically filled with Amsoil ATF." ??? Automatic ATF fluid in a standard tranny? Is this done and I just never knew it, or is this suspicious? Why wouldn't they have recommended one of their gearlubes for these applications? (I'm confused.) ATF in a standard tranny. Is this a wise move or no? I wanna hear why or why not. Any input is appreciated.<< MOPAR used ATF in their manual 4 speeds and some of their manual 3 speeds... I've never heard of FOMOCO doing this, but I'd venture to say that if it worked for MOPAR, then it would work for FOMOCO... Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 17:24:42 GMT Subject: Re: Unibody Tailgate > This was in "This Old Truck" that came this morning: Tailgate For Ford >61/63 unibody pickup. Very good condition, $200. Tom Stokopf, 2449 Fairview >Ave., Waverly, IA 50677. ph, 319-352-1010, after 8:00 p.m. Hey I can probably find that ! heh, that's funny, as few of those are left around here I'm surprised if it doesn't have any rust on it. If any of you listers make the trip to look at it, or want some pics, my girlfriend's parents live just east of there and I could probably run up and take some pics of the gate for ya (digi even if you ask nice) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" Subject: Ford Ind Torque specs Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:21:27 -0500 Harley P. writes: >>This question might be a little strange, but here goes. I am rebuilding a Ford industrial engine in a wood chipper. I can't find any information regarding torque spec's for putting this thing back together. Was wondering if any of you might know a source for this information. If you do, you can drop me a note off list, and It would be GREATLY appreciated. FTE content.....I dragged this critter to my shop behind my 69 F100. LOL<< Give your local Ford/New holland dealers parts counter a call and see if they will help you out. I'd be willing to bet they have them and will furnish them to you. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "wish" Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 17:27:13 GMT Subject: Re: toploader website??? >>>Here is the part number on it: RUG J2 from a 67 Fairlane 390 GT. 28 >>>spline wide ratio and it is a short one at 24 inches long. Now to find a >>>bell housinf that works with an FE. It is complete down to the shifter but >> >>>it is missing the tailshaft yoke. >> >>Uhm, Stu ... I'm confused, but if its from a 390 GT Fairlane, then won't it >>have an FE bellhousing on it ??? Or did the trucks use a different housing >>than the cars even when they were FE's ? >> >I think the 4 speed car toploaders and NP435's use a different bellhousing >for FE's. >The toploaders sometimes used a 4 or 5 bolt mounting pattern to the >bellhousing depending on which >car tooploader a person had. > >Car vs. truck. Am I crazy?? Anyone know this for sure?? > I'm not sure those last three sentences really go together ... you are crazy, and we're sure of it, but car v truck is still a debate. Actually what I was saying was, what is wrong with the bellhousing from the Fairlane? or was it missing completely? A 390 in a car is the same as a 390 in a pickup, or at least very interchangeable, why not the bellhousing ? Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish Ford Truck Enthusiasts http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" Subject: Dimming lights Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:31:58 -0500 Laura and Marty :: Your writings : >>My '73 F100 does the same thing - at idle the lights are dim and the heater is slow, when I rev it up the lights brighten and heater speeds up. I am told it is nothing to worry about, it has done it the whole time I've owned it (over 5 yrs). I have replaced the alt, batt, cables and volt regulator and it still does it. It's kind of annoying but nothing to be concerned about<< This is normal with a very low idle speed.. The alternator isn't spinning fast enough to put out enough current to overcome the drain created by the lights and the blower. Nothing to be concerned about, usually. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" Subject: Rear main seal` Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:47:40 -0500 David W. writes: >>Anyhoo, as usual the Haynes and Chilton manuals can't agree...Haynes book says you have to remove the transmission and hence the transfer case as well, but the Chilton book says I can do it without removing the transmission as only the 6-300 and the diesel engines have one piece seals. Supposedly this 351M, like all the other V8's, uses a two piece seal that can be replaced while the engine and tranny are still in the truck.<< Don't know about all, but on my nephew's '79 w/351M, I changed the rear main seal(as well as installed new main bearings all thru it) with removing the oil pan. The tranny stayed mated to the engine. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ From: "Azie L. Magnusson" Subject: Blasphemy Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:55:16 -0500 Dave writs: >>(Why couldn't Ford just bolt it to the water pump like it was on my S-10 ??). << For S H A M E on you.. Stu--- You there??? Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 14:46:56 -0500 From: Stu Varner Subject: Re: Blasphemy At 01:55 PM 6/5/00 -0500, you wrote: > >Dave writs: >>(Why couldn't Ford just bolt it to the water pump like it was on my S-10 ??). << > >For S H A M E on you.. Stu--- You there??? > >Azie Magnusson >Ardmore, Al. > Heck Azie, I must have missed a legitimate opportunity to flamola somebody.....rats I hate it when I miss "that" golden opportunity. Stu Nuke GM! http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm ------------------------------ From: "Southerland, Rich" Subject: Re: Blasphemy Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 12:51:13 -0700 >Dave writs: >>(Why couldn't Ford just bolt it to the water pump like it was on my S-10 ??). << You mean the S-10 that you have to JACK up one side of the cab off the frame to remove the engine? No thanks, I'll take my Ford... ------------------------------ From: "Dave Resch" Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 16:29:32 -0600 Subject: Re: 460 heads >From: JUMPINFORD >Date: Sat, 3 Jun 2000 16:12:41 EDT > >No, sorry, they are completely different >animals. With some work you can put >Cleveland heads on em, but thats a lot >of work, not to be done by most >backyard mechanics. Yo Darrell: You are correct that the 429/460 big-block heads will not fit an M-block (351M/400). Actually, the M-block shares the head design w/ the 351 Cleveland. The only differences are combustion chamber sizes and port sizes. All 351C heads will bolt right onto an M-block, but the large ports of the 351C 4V heads are not well suited to the normal M-block application. I think the adaptation you are thinking of is putting 351C heads on a 351W block. That can be done, but it requires modification of the block-to-head coolant passages. Dave R (M-block devotee) ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" Subject: Re: Rebuild advice/tips wanted Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 17:37:40 -0500 Well for general advice make sure you have a good shop manual with pictures and torque specs. Keep everything really clean. Use quality gaskets. If the engine is as dirty inside as most, have your block steam cooked and checked by your machine shop for warping, cracks, etc. If you have any specific questions I would be glad to help, I rebuilt my 390 3 times so I know what not to do. Due to my mistakes, I spun a rod bearing twice. Getting 2 different manuals is a good idea so you can be sure you are putting things together the right way. Anyways feel free to drop me a line if you need advice. --Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Kirk Baillie To: Ford list Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 12:20 AM Subject: [61-79-list] Rebuild advice/tips wanted Hi guys I the 360 2V in my 74 F250 4x4 high boy is on its last legs. It has a severe knock that has gotten worse over the last month. So my question is since I have not had the experience of doing a engine rebuild yet what kind of info is out there form me. My plans are to either pull out the current one or either purchase another 360 or 390 block and rebuild that up. I dont need any thing monstrous but since I am at it I wouldn't mind adding a little more kick to it. At least I want to add a 4 barrel and maybe cam. If you could give me any tips or advice It would be greatly appreciated ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 18:51:29 EDT Subject: Re: 460 heads In a message dated 6/5/00 3:31:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Dave.Resch << I think the adaptation you are thinking of is putting 351C heads on a 351W block. That can be done, but it requires modification of the block-to-head coolant passages. >> Whoops foot in mouth! My mistake. One of these days Im gonna have to build one of those overgrown smallblocks just so I know whats goin on. 460's, FE's, small blocks, and 6 cyls I know, but never messed with the 335 series. Darrell & Tweety ------------------------------ From: JUMPINFORD Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 19:09:28 EDT Subject: I-Beam pivot bushings Hello Everyone, thought Id share some insight I gained over the last few days. I was fortunate enough to have to replace the I-Beam pivot bushings on both an 82 E-350 Van and a 73 F-350 pickup. This job isnt so bad, but air tools are needed. The first part is removing the old bushing. First you make sure everything isnt gonna up and move on ya. Put a jack under the beam, and raise it just a little to relieve the stress on the bolt. Remove the bolt, and lower the jack. The weight of the truck will push the beam down so you can work on it. Then you have to pull the old bushing. On the van it was easy as the rubber had been gone for so long, that the metal at the top of the bushing was worn away, leaving only the lower half of the bushing, a quick grap with a pair of pliers and out they came. The truck was a different story as they were in much better shape, all though still bad. I used a propane torch and a screwdriver to remove the rubber, heating it up then scrabing it out, bit by bit. After that was done, I used a cutting bit on my air hammer to slice one side of the sleeve, then they came out with a lil tug with some Channel Locks. Now your ready to go back together. I used a die grinder to chamfer the edge of the hole in the I beam, so the bushing would not bind while being pressed in. Then you can press the bushing in. Find two large washers, one of which needs to be domed, as the bushing is thicker than the I-Beam. Put the bolt through the flat washer, then the bushing, the I-Beam, the domed washer, and then the nut. By tightening the nut, it will pull the new bushing into place. Hardest part is finding a washer that can hold up to the stress and not bend. I think Im going to make something out of some 1/4"steel so I wont go through so many washers as I have the last few days. When the new bushing is seated, simply raise the jack to put the I beam back into position, install the bolt, and your all done. Bing bang boom. And with practice, they will fly by. First one took 2 and one half hours, and that was on the Van that I didnt have to waste 30 min cooking rubber out of. Last one only took 45 min. When I do em on Tweety, I expect it to only take about, an hour, tops. And I know those are trashed, Lord knows I put that truck through its paces. There you go, bushing installation made easy. I had to share this, Dont want anyone else to have to deal with what I did on that first bushing. Darrell and Tweety ------------------------------ From: Natp244 Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 19:36:53 EDT Subject: 272 Identification I have a 64 F-100 with what I thought was a 292 in it. It belonged to my uncle for years before his death. He always called it a 292. I got it a few years ago and it has just been waiting on me since. Anyway, I've just recently began disassembling the truck and in identifying all of the components, I found the block ID # (stamped upside down on the right side of the block!) and it is ECG. At least- I think it is. It's kinda hard to read, but I am ALMOST sure it is ECG. My references say that this block ID indicates a 272 from 55-57. My question is this: is there any way to tell the difference between a 292 and 272 other than by pulling the heads? I am hoping I might be able to tell by looking at stamps on heads, or intake, or even main caps. I am somewhat familiar with the 292, but know absolutely nothing about the 272, so I don't know how to tell the difference. Any help? Good news (related story). My uncle has a 65 F-100 cab/front clip mounted on the chassis of a 59 F-600. (Interesting combo, but it was after all just a farm truck). The 59 cab was wasted, so he improvised. Anyway, I stopped by to ask him if he would be interested in selling some of the parts that I might be able to use on my 64. He said "Well.....No. But I'll give ya' all of it that you want." I went out to look at it and there sat a 292! I asked him about it. He said it was built 2 yrs ago and parked after a year because they replaced the old beast with another truck. I asked if the "any of it that I wanted" included the engine- and he said YES!! I have a (sort of) fresh 292 now! Just wanted to share my joy. Anyone that can help on the id of my other engine- thanks in advance. Nate 64 ------------------------------ From: canzus Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 17:49:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: 460 heads At 04:29 PM 05:06:2000 -0600, Dave Resch wrote: > >Yo Darrell: > >You are correct that the 429/460 big-block heads will not fit an M-block >(351M/400). > >I think the adaptation you are thinking of is putting 351C heads on a 351W >block. That can be done, but it requires modification of the block-to-head >coolant passages. > >Dave R (M-block devotee) Hey Dave, do you wanna post the "How To", or should I? Actually I posted a how to a couple of years ago, maybe I should do it again?? Steve & the Rockette 68 F100, 390cid, FMX 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed 72 Capri 2000, hers 73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in..... 73 MGB GT, Our Toy 94 SHO, SWMBO's 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 18:11:36 -0700 From: scott Subject: FE tips > Hi guys I the 360 2V in my 74 F250 4x4 high boy is on its last legs. It > has a severe knock that has gotten worse over the last month. So my > question is since I have not had the experience of doing a engine > rebuild yet what kind of info is out there form me. > > My plans are to either pull out the current one or either purchase > another 360 or 390 block and rebuild that up. I dont need any thing > monstrous but since I am at it I wouldn't mind adding a little more kick > to it. At least I want to add a 4 barrel and maybe cam. > > If you could give me any tips or advice It would be greatly appreciated I agree with the others on getting the Christ book ,going with a 390, iron 4bbl. intake ,good chain etc.Spend your money on the inside of the engine,get the best machine work and internal parts you can afford.You can always put a aluminum intake,chrome valve covers etc. on it later. The intake is one external modification I would make.It is a bear to install later due to it's wieght. Headers are a sticking point.FEs love the improved flow,my Hi-Boy doesn't love headers tho... I have never had a set on my 76 Hi-Boy that really give me the proper clearance for the front drive shaft.I run headers,but am careful and still have to straighten out the collector now and then.A set of block huggers would be the way to go but I don't know of anyone who makes a set that would work. I have a divorced t-case,a married case might have more clearance due to the shorter shaft. Good luck with the rebuild and keep us posted. ------------------------------ From: "Bill Beyer" Subject: Re: 460 heads Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 18:25:37 -0700 No need to reinvent the wheel...the instructions for a "Clevor" are at the following address: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.wabba.net/clevor.html "If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets" ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <61-79-list Cc: <61-79-list Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 5:49 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 460 heads > At 04:29 PM 05:06:2000 -0600, Dave Resch wrote: > > > >Yo Darrell: > > > >You are correct that the 429/460 big-block heads will not fit an M-block > >(351M/400). > > > >I think the adaptation you are thinking of is putting 351C heads on a 351W > >block. That can be done, but it requires modification of the block-to-head > >coolant passages. > > > >Dave R (M-block devotee) > > Hey Dave, do you wanna post the "How To", or should I? > Actually I posted a how to a couple of years ago, maybe I should do it > again?? ------------------------------ From: "Jesus Cardoso" Subject: tranny rebuilt shop help Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 22:18:48 EDT Howdy, I have recently moved to the Detroit, MI area, complete with my '63 F100 from Texas. The old girl's tranny is acting up and is in need of a rebuild. The tranny is a Warner 3-speed on the tree. Does anyone have any suggestions on reputable tranny shops in the Detroit Metro area? Being fairly new to the area any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. chuy '63 F100 Flareside 292 Y-Block ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Garrett Nelson" Subject: Re: Rear main seal` Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 21:58:21 -0500 I would like to see you replace main bearings without removing the oil pan! --Garrett www.1966ford.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Azie L. Magnusson To: 61-79-list Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 1:47 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Rear main seal` David W. writes: >>Anyhoo, as usual the Haynes and Chilton manuals can't agree...Haynes book says you have to remove the transmission and hence the transfer case as well, but the Chilton book says I can do it without removing the transmission as only the 6-300 and the diesel engines have one piece seals. Supposedly this 351M, like all the other V8's, uses a two piece seal that can be replaced while the engine and tranny are still in the truck.<< Don't know about all, but on my nephew's '79 w/351M, I changed the rear main seal(as well as installed new main bearings all thru it) with removing the oil pan. The tranny stayed mated to the engine. Azie Magnusson Ardmore, Al. ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ------------------------------ From: Marvin Meyer Subject: Re: ATF Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 23:22:34 -0400 Azie; ATF would work well with the bearings, it would flush and cary away dirt and debris, also cool as it flows good. BUT not good for max lubricity on the gears, there is no protection under pressure of them meshing. ??? Automatic ATF fluid in a standard tranny? Is this done and I just never knew it, or is this suspicious? Why wouldn't they have recommended one of their gearlubes for these applications? (I'm confused.) ATF in a standard tranny. Is this a wise move or no? I wanna hear why or why not. Any input is appreciated.<< MOPAR used ATF in their manual 4 speeds and some of their manual 3 speeds... I've never heard of FOMOCO doing this, but I'd venture to say that if it worked for MOPAR, then it would work for FOMOCO... ------------------------------ From: "Tim and Pam Allgire" Subject: Re: 460 heads Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 00:05:48 -0400 Yes you can put Cleveland heads on a Windsor motor with some modification. It then becomes a 351 Clevor. I remember seeing an article on that some yrs ago in one of my Ford magazines. -----Original Message----- From: canzus To: 61-79-list Cc: 61-79-list Date: Monday, June 05, 2000 8:53 PM Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 460 heads >At 04:29 PM 05:06:2000 -0600, Dave Resch wrote: >> >>Yo Darrell: >> >>You are correct that the 429/460 big-block heads will not fit an M-block >>(351M/400). >> >>I think the adaptation you are thinking of is putting 351C heads on a 351W >>block. That can be done, but it requires modification of the block-to-head >>coolant passages. >> >>Dave R (M-block devotee) > > Hey Dave, do you wanna post the "How To", or should I? >Actually I posted a how to a couple of years ago, maybe I should do it >again?? > >Steve & the Rockette > 68 F100, 390cid, FMX > 63 F100, 292cid, 3speed > 72 Capri 2000, hers > 73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in..... > 73 MGB GT, Our Toy > 94 SHO, SWMBO's > 98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine.... > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. > ------------------------------ From: JJJJJGRANT Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 23:58:57 EDT Subject: Re: Gas milage my 79 f250, ext cab 4x4, with a stock rebuild 400, automatic, 4.10 gears and 33" tires gets 11 mpg. i was amazed, i was expecting 8-9 mpg jeff grant ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2000 00:11:55 -0500 From: prices Subject: power steering woes Hello FTE, I need some help on power steering on my 2wd '73. It is hard to steer, period, whether cold or hot. Now it is not as hard as power steering is with the engine off, so it is working somewhat. I am able to drive it, but it will hardly correct itself back to center when going down the road. After getting warm, it gets slightly harder to steer. I am running a big block and headers, and stock size steering wheel. I changed the pump to another used pump tonight, no difference. The box is not leaking, steering actually feels tight with very little play. Loosened my entire column to see if it was binding, but it seemed ok. I have another steering box on a parts truck, but it's been sitting for 10 yrs. Does anyone have some other tips to try before I pull the steering box off? Any help is appreciated, bkp ------------------------------ From: "davidl" Subject: Re: FE tips Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 01:11:55 -0500 L&L make the best headers for this. I have had a set on my 76 4x4hiboy 360 2v with cam they exit out the fender wells and fit great. No cutting. had hookers and kept toasting starters and had to remove the to change starter. and then us a 428 cobra jet cam it will work well for you. they had alkinds of clearence email me i still have the headers and the motor. truck had cancer to bad to save. Dave -----Original Message----- From: scott To: 61-79-list Date: Monday, June 05, 2000 8:14 PM Subject: [61-79-list] FE tips >> Hi guys I the 360 2V in my 74 F250 4x4 high boy is on its last legs. It >> has a severe knock that has gotten worse over the last month. So my >> question is since I have not had the experience of doing a engine >> rebuild yet what kind of info is out there form me. >> >> My plans are to either pull out the current one or either purchase >> another 360 or 390 block and rebuild that up. I dont need any thing >> monstrous but since I am at it I wouldn't mind adding a little more kick >> to it. At least I want to add a 4 barrel and maybe cam. >> >> If you could give me any tips or advice It would be greatly appreciated > >I agree with the others on getting the Christ book ,going with a 390, >iron 4bbl. intake ,good chain etc.Spend your money on the inside of the >engine,get the best machine work and internal parts you can afford.You >can always put a aluminum intake,chrome valve covers etc. on it later. > The intake is one external modification I would make.It is a bear to >install later due to it's wieght. > Headers are a sticking point.FEs love the improved flow,my Hi-Boy >doesn't love headers tho... > I have never had a set on my 76 Hi-Boy that really give me the proper >clearance for the front drive shaft.I run headers,but am careful and >still have to straighten out the collector now and then.A set of block >huggers would be the way to go but I don't know of anyone who makes a >set that would work. > I have a divorced t-case,a married case might have more clearance due >to the shorter shaft. > Good luck with the rebuild and keep us posted. >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the >message. ------------------------------ From: pdesanto Subject: Re: All Ford Events - For June 2000 Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 03:37:19 -0400 ¤¤Kelly wrote: ¤¤> All Ford Events - For June 2000 ¤ June 17 21st. Annual Mustang and All Ford Show Indianapolis, Ind. =========================================================== Hi all - anybody on the lists know where this event is held ? I assume at Raceway Park? But I don't really know. Any other details appreciated to. Thanx, Phil ( 2 close 2 not-go ) ------------------------------ From: pdesanto Subject: All Ford Events - For June 2000 Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 03:46:55 -0400 Thought I'd forward this Ford event list from our Galaxie list, since a lot of you guys seem to appreciate Fine Fords in all shapes and sizes. Later, Phil ( 63 Galaxie, 64 F-100, 66 Mustang ) -----Original Message----- From: Kelly Sent: Monday, June 05, 2000 7:41 PM To: Multiple recipients of list Subject: [GALAXIE:18268] All Ford Events - For June 2000 All Ford Events - For June 2000 (See the Galaxie All Ford page at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.galaxieclub.com/fordshows.html for more information or e-mail me at kmcfall Jun 07 Carolina 2000 Eastern National Meet Jun 10 Concord NC Jun 09 Seventh Early Ford V8 National Rally Jun 12 Bendigo Victoria Austrailia Jun 10 19th Annual Mustang & All Ford Car Show & Swap Meet Jun 10 Grand Rapids MI Jun 10 All Ford Show - Tri Co. Touroughbred Corral Jun 10 Bridgeville PA Jun 10 All Ford Car & Truck Show Jun 10 Washington PA Jun 11 All Ford Show by Syracuse Shelby Mustang Club Jun 11 Liverpool NY Jun 11 Twenty-Fourth Annual All Fords Day Jun 11 Williamsville NY Jun 11 Great Galaxie Gathering Jun 11 Grove CA Jun 11 Ford Show Jun 11 Syracuse NY Jun 11 Ford World Car Show and Swap Meet Jun 11 Macedonia OH Jun 12 Ford Family Show Jun 12 Macedonia OH Jun 17 Sixteenth Annual Mustang Show & Shine Jun 17 Fredericton NB Jun 17 Twenty-First Annual Mustang and All Ford Show Jun 17 Indianapolis IN Jun 24 2nd Annual Old Dominion Fun Ford Weekend Jun 25 Richmond VA Jun 25 Mustang and Ford Car Show & Swap Meet Jun 25 Jefferson City MO Jun 25 Second Annual All Ford Powered Car Show Jun 25 Pittsburgh (North Hills area) PA Kelly McFall St. Louis, MO FGCoA #633 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 08:15:25 -0400 From: David Wadson Subject: Re: power steering woes >Hello FTE, > >I need some help on power steering on my 2wd '73. It is hard to steer, >period, whether cold or hot. Now it is not as hard as power steering is >with the engine off, so it is working somewhat. I am able to drive it, but >it will hardly correct itself back to center when going down the road. >After getting warm, it gets slightly harder to steer. I am running a big >block and headers, and stock size steering wheel. I changed the pump to >another used pump tonight, no difference. The box is not leaking, steering >actually feels tight with very little play. Loosened my entire column to >see if it was binding, but it seemed ok. I have another steering box on a >parts truck, but it's been sitting for 10 yrs. Does anyone have some other >tips to try before I pull the steering box off? Put the front end up on jack stands and try turning the wheels. I'm not sure if you need to remove the power steering hoses but the front wheels should turn nice and easy. After changing the front axles in my truck - the alternative approach to replacing seized kingpins - I could give the steering wheel one good spin and the steering would turn from one side all the way to the stop at the other direction. But if they don't spin easily and you find yourself strong arming the truck through turns and to recenter the steering, its a good sign your king pins are seized. Try removing the steering linkage from the spindles and check how wheel each wheel can turn. David Wadson - wadsond "PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces. "PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking. "PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into... Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada ------------------------------ End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #118 *********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Send posts to 61-79-list If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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