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61-79-list Digest Wed, 17 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 102

In This Issue:
77 F350 Super Camper for parts ( Portland Or)
Fwd: 69 bronco front end
Re: 351M Carburetor help
65 2WD Conversion to 73 4WD Running Gear Project
Re: 351M Heads
Re: Microfiche Readers
Re: 78 f250 front axle what is it?
Re: Fwd: 69 bronco front end
Re: Fwd: 69 bronco front end
drums and shoes
78 f250 front axle what is it?
Re: 77 F350 Super Camper for parts ( Portland Or)
Re: drums and shoes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Chris Brandt ClarityVisual.com>
Subject: 77 F350 Super Camper for parts ( Portland Or)
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 09:33:38 -0700

Well I had intended to turn this thing into a crew cab ultra short box. But
the reality is I don't have the time or space...

The wheelbase is 140" and is the highest GVW driveline that ford offered in
a single rear wheel truck. The highlight is a special narrow single rear
wheel Dana 70 The axle code (D7) says it is a 3.73 powerlock. The box sides
are in great condition (special box with the spare tire stored up behind a
panel and smooth interior sides) Two large fuel tanks, new front brakes. The
cab and front clip burned, there is no motor. The truck is a rolling chassis
so it can be towed home easilly.

The rear end is worth a bunch. I will sell the entire truck for what I think
the rear axel is worth $800 bucks... I will part the truck but only in a
manner that leaves it as a rolling chassis. This means the axle stays with
the frame, but the box and fuel tanks can go.

Chris Brandt
Portland OR
503-570-4624 wk
503-735-4945 hm

------------------------------

From: SROTH84 aol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 13:51:38 EDT
Subject: Fwd: 69 bronco front end





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From: SROTH84 aol.com
Full-name: SROTH84
Message-ID: aol.com>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 13:49:20 EDT
Subject: 69 bronco front end
To: 61-79listford-trucks.com
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Hello again,

I am still researching how to make the '69 bronco safer for my kids. Thanks
to those of you that responded last time. The two main thoughts are steering(
33's and 3" lift make it hard to keep on the road) and braking(mushy).

I am thinking of rebuilding the front end now. I am told that I need a mid
'71 to '74 dana 44 front end so that I can convert to disc brakes with
booster.
In addition I would look to remove the 3" body lift and replace with 31/2"
suspension lift and dual shocks on the corners.

Does anyone know where to get the Dana 44? Are there any additional thoughts
on either of the two issues?

Steve in St. Louis



------------------------------

From: "Dave Resch" sybase.com>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 11:51:15 -0600
Subject: Re: 351M Carburetor help

>From: "Chris Dains" earthlink.net>
>I need some help on the carburetor for
>my 77 F250. The truck has been idling
>rough. It seems to be running rich and
>idles fast, then reverts back to normal,
>then repeats the process.

Yo Chris:

Sounds like either an intermittent vacuum leak or time for a carb
rebuild/overhaul.

The vacuum leak has the effect of intermittently diluting (i.e., leaning) the
fuel/air mixture. If intermittent, it would cause irregular idle and surging,
like you describe. If the carb's idle mixture was adjusted richer in an attempt
to compensate for the vacuum leak, it would run rich when the vacuum was not
leaking, and then speed up and idle less rich when the vacuum was leaking. I
would follow the advice of others and look for a vacuum leak first. Even if you
rebuilt/overhauled the carb, a vacuum leak would still cause problems.

A variation of the vacuum leak problem is incorrectly routed vacuum hoses that
may cause an effective vacuum leak when vacuum switches are not connected to the
proper devices. If the irregular idle has a repetitive cyclic timing to it (not
random), this may well be your problem.

If you eliminate any vacuum leak and the problem persists, then it's time to
rebuild the carb. IMHO, periodic carb cleaning and rebuilding are normal
maintenance.

>With the engine cold, you can remove
>the air cleaner and smell a slight bit of
> fuel.

This is normal.

>I can't find a good book that offers
>adjustments, everything is for carb.
>overhaul. My Chilton's, Haynes, and
>Ford V8 book are all removal and
>overhaul. Any recommendations of
>some carb. books or ways to tell if it
>indeed needs an overhaul??
>
>Info: 1977 Ford F250 Custom; 351M/400 EGR
> Carb; 2bbl -Tag ID: 7T DBA D7G1
> 58,000 orig. miles
>I have no clue as to the carb. type. I
>doesn't say motorcraft or any other
>manuf. Locals want $250 for an overhaul,
>but I'd rather do it, even though I'm a
>novice.

If it's original, your truck's carb is the Motorcraft 2150 (direct descendant of
the Autolite 2100). It is a simple carburetor and very easy to work on,
especially compared to a Holley 41xx. There are several minor variations in the
configuration of the 2150 (really minor) and many different "calibrations," so
you'll need the carb tag number when you order a rebuild kit.

There are very few adjustments you can make to the 2150. The only things to
adjust are idle mixture, float level, and choke operations. Those should all be
covered in your books.

If you need to rebuild the carb, I would suggest getting a rebuild kit ($20-30)
and a gallon can of good carb solvent (I like the smell of Berryman Chem-Dip
myself) at a local auto parts shop and do it yourself. Between the instructions
in your books and the instructions that come w/ the rebuild kit, you should have
all the info you need. By the time you're done, you will have performed the
same job a mechanic would charge you about $200 for.

BTW: Any decent rebuild kit will include both the accelerator pump diaphragm and
the power valve. Other than gaskets and the needle valve, those are about the
only internal components that wear out in normal use.

I was a novice before I did my first carb rebuild, too. If you can understand
the exploded view drawings and have the patience to pay careful attention to
where parts go when you disassemble it, you can do it.

Dave R (M-block devotee)



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 10:56:21 -0700
From: Jason Eaton jungawunga.com>
Subject: 65 2WD Conversion to 73 4WD Running Gear Project


Hey folks,

I just finished a project where I moved the running gear from a 73 4WD
HiBoy 3/4 ton to a 65 2WD 1/2 ton. If anybody would be interested in the
details email me back and I will send it to you. I could even send pictures
if anybody likes. If a lot of people are interested I will just post it to
the list.

Thanks.


------------------------------

From: "Dave Resch" sybase.com>
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 12:03:09 -0600
Subject: Re: 351M Heads


>From: BOgbornwebtv.net (Bryan Ogborn)
>
>I have a 77 f-150 w/ a 351M and a 3-speed
>manual tranny. I want to put a 4v on it. I
>have heard that you have to change the
>heads as well as the intake. Supposedly
>to get a larger chamber in the heads.
>I don't know if it makes any difference or
>not, but, it is a non-catalyst motor.

Yo Bryan:

Smoke up yer tailpipe, dude.

No need to change the heads, unless you want to do a lot more than switch to a
4V carb. I would recommend changing the cam and getting decent headers to make
the 4V carb really worthwhile, though.

Dave R (M-block devotee)



------------------------------

From: "Ross Johansson" alaska.net>
Subject: Re: Microfiche Readers
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 16:53:50 -0800

for those intrested............
there are a few microfiche readers listed here

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://surplusshed.com/misc.htm

======================

BELL & HOWELL PORTABLE MICROFICHE READER
Built into a briefcase, this reader works off standard 110VAC, 12 volts DC
from your car's cigarette lighter (plug and cord included), or from its own
internal rechargeable battery. Designed to project the standard 4" x 6"
microfiche onto the built-in screen, or onto the wall by removing the top of
the case. Includes 2 lenses for dual magnification. Unused with keys to lock
the briefcase, and instruction and service manuals.
#M1449 $ 58.00

NORTHWEST PORTABLE MICROFICHE READER
Model Informant II. Similar to our #M1449 above, but we have not been able
to charge the internal battery on the ones we tried. Has 2 lenses on a
turret, and includes a spare projection lamp. Cover with screen is removable
for projection on the wall. Includes plug and cord to use your car cigarette
lighter socket for power, or works off standard 110VAC. Case does not lock.
Unused with instructions.
#M1450 $ 39.00

TOPPER MICROFICHE VIEWER
Model COM75X. Features switchable lenses for two different magnifications,
slide focus control, and two position light intensity. Runs off standard
115VAC. Unused in original packaging
#M1469 $ 45.00

REALIST MICROFICHE READER
Vantage 5 model. Has dual magnification. Screen size is 13" X 10". Uses
standard 110VAC.
#M1129 $ 55.00


==============

Ross
Anchorage, Alaska
1967 F100 4x4



------------------------------

From: FORDTRKNUTaol.com
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 21:06:24 EDT
Subject: Re: 78 f250 front axle what is it?

If the steering arm has 3 bolts attaching it to the steering knuckle, its a
Dana 44. If the steering arm has 4 bolts attaching it the steering knuckle,
its a Dana 60. The housing(s) also have a cast "60 or 44" in the web of the
center housing. If you have any more questions....let me know!!! Wayne
Grabley

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 22:25:31 -0700
From: Jason Derra internetcds.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: 69 bronco front end

You can convert your present Dana 30 to disc brakes by using 71-76 Chevy 4x4
parts. This can be transfered over to a 44 when you find one. Since the spindle
bolt pattern on the Ford drum brake front end and the Chevy disc front end are
the same, parts will interchange. It is a definite bolt on project.
What you need:
'71-76 1/2T 4x4 Chevy- spindles, caliper mounting brackets, and calipers
'76-newer 1/2T 4x4 Ford- bearings, hubs and rotors
I can get you some more specifics on the swap if you want them. It's much
simpler and cheaper than the factory Ford setup.

As for the steering, there is a lot of things that can go wrong in the steering
system that will cause wandering. It needs to be addressed before or at the same
time as the suspension modifications to lessen headaches down the road. Check
the basics such as tie rods, draglink, suspension bushings, steering box play,
type of tires and air pressure.

Jason

SROTH84aol.com wrote:

>
>
> -- Attached file included as plaintext by Listar --
>
> Return-path: aol.com>
> From: SROTH84aol.com
> Full-name: SROTH84
> Message-ID: aol.com>
> Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 13:49:20 EDT
> Subject: 69 bronco front end
> To: 61-79listford-trucks.com
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 100
>
> Hello again,
>
> I am still researching how to make the '69 bronco safer for my kids. Thanks
> to those of you that responded last time. The two main thoughts are steering(
> 33's and 3" lift make it hard to keep on the road) and braking(mushy).
>
> I am thinking of rebuilding the front end now. I am told that I need a mid
> '71 to '74 dana 44 front end so that I can convert to disc brakes with
> booster.
> In addition I would look to remove the 3" body lift and replace with 31/2"
> suspension lift and dual shocks on the corners.
>
> Does anyone know where to get the Dana 44? Are there any additional thoughts
> on either of the two issues?
>
> Steve in St. Louis
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.




------------------------------

From: SHill48337aol.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 01:34:53 EDT
Subject: Re: Fwd: 69 bronco front end

In a message dated 5/18/00 1:18:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
derrarinternetcds.com writes:

<< You can convert your present Dana 30 to disc brakes by using 71-76 Chevy
4x4
parts. This can be transfered over to a 44 when you find one. Since the
spindle
bolt pattern on the Ford drum brake front end and the Chevy disc front end
are
the same, parts will interchange. It is a definite bolt on project.
What you need:
'71-76 1/2T 4x4 Chevy- spindles, caliper mounting brackets, and calipers
'76-newer 1/2T 4x4 Ford- bearings, hubs and rotors
I can get you some more specifics on the swap if you want them. It's much
simpler and cheaper than the factory Ford setup.
>>
I would be very interested in more specifics. Additionally I would like to
know if the 15 inch deep dish wheels will fit, I supect they will not. One
of the advantages of the drums is they allow the use of the much cheaper 15
inch wheels. But any more information would be valuable. Thanks
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 08:41:04 -0500
From: Bruce Montcombroux BrandonU.CA>
Subject: drums and shoes

I just put new front drums and shoes on my 65 ..in the box there were two
types of shoes ones with a longer pad ones with a shorter pad. The box
listed them as primary and secondary..so I put the primary ones on the
leading side and the secondary pads on the trailing side. Brakes seem to
work fine.. any thoughts

Bruce
65 Mercury 240 I6




------------------------------

From: "Jeffrey L. Schulz" bridgetest.com>
Subject: 78 f250 front axle what is it?
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 08:28:34 -0600


Craig,

Look around on the top of the "pumpkin"....I'm betting that you'll see a "44" on it....or, if you're lucky, a "60".....either way, they seem to usually be marked...

Colorado Jeff

-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: application/ms-tnef



------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORDaol.com
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 11:29:40 EDT
Subject: Re: 77 F350 Super Camper for parts ( Portland Or)

Just outta curiosity, what color is it?

------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 15:31:49 GMT
Subject: Re: drums and shoes

>in the box there were two
>types of shoes ones with a longer pad ones with a shorter pad. The box
>listed them as primary and secondary..so I put the primary ones on the
>leading side and the secondary pads on the trailing side. Brakes seem to
>work fine.. any thoughts
>

This is absolutely correct ... they are labelled as such because the primary
is pulled into the drum by the rotation of the drum, and the secondary is pushed
away because of the rotation, this means more surface area is required on the
secondary to equal the same stopping force as the primary.

I'm trying to think of how to explain this with an example ... a grinding wheel
comes to mind ... you put the piece of metal on the "upward" moving side of
the wheel and just sort of let it drag against the wheel right ? This is the
primary side, the wheel pulls the metal into it as it goes past, this means
its easy to hold and doesn't require much pressure ...

What happens when you reverse the wheel ? it rips it out of your hands and
flings it across the room, or worse right ? This would be the equivalent of
the secondary ... that is the wheel is pushing it away, but you keep pushing
it back ... eventually it grabs and you aren't strong enough to hold it so it
just goes flying ... depending on your angle and such, but I hope you get the
idea here ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

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