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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 17 May 2000 10:53:04 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 10:53:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #101
Precedence: bulk

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61-79-list Digest Tue, 16 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 101

In This Issue:
Re: Removal of Tint Film
Re: Removal of Tint Film
351M Carburetor help
Re: 351M Carburetor help
Re: 351M Carburetor help
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: 351M Carburetor help
Re: 351M Carburetor help
Re: 351M Carburetor help
Re: 351M Carburetor help
Re: 351M Carburetor help
351M Heads
Re: 351M Heads
Re: 351M Carburetor help
Re: 351M Heads
78 f250 front axle what is it?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: Removal of Tint Film
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 07:36:06 -0500

and I tried a
> number of solvents as well. The one that worked the best for me was good
ol'
> finger nail polish remover. I'm not sure if all film uses the same
> adheisive, >
> Nate 64

You may want to try WD40 to try and remove the adhesive, I have used it
several times for adhesive removal, It seems to be good for things like that
if nothing else.

Good Luck,

Paul Rozell
65 F100 460 C6
96 F150 SC 5.0
==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 08:07:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Removal of Tint Film
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 5/16/2000 7:36 AM, OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell at
prozell oaielectronics.com wrote:

> and I tried a
>> number of solvents as well. The one that worked the best for me was good
> ol'
>> finger nail polish remover. I'm not sure if all film uses the same
>> adheisive, >
>> Nate 64
>
> You may want to try WD40 to try and remove the adhesive, I have used it
> several times for adhesive removal, It seems to be good for things like that
> if nothing else.

My son used to work at a tint shop. After peeling the old film, they used
some type of household ammonia mixture to remove the adhesive. You wet the
glass, then scrape it with a razor blade. Repeat until you can not feel any
resistance. This is the same method you use for cleaning the glass prior to
initial installation. You can use newsprint for your final wipe down. It is
lint free and slightly abrasive. WD40 might leave a residue behind that
would prevent the new film from sticking properly. It works great on bugs
and tar, though.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Chris Dains" earthlink.net>
Subject: 351M Carburetor help
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 09:16:12 -0700


I need some help on the carburetor for my 77 F250. The truck has been idling rough. It seems to be running rich and idles fast, then reverts back to normal, then repeats the process. With the engine cold, you can remove the air cleaner and smell a slight bit of fuel.
I can't find a good book that offers adjustments, everything is for carb. overhaul. My Chilton's, Haynes, and Ford V8 book are all removal and overhaul. Any recommendations of some carb. books or ways to tell if it indeed needs an overhaul??

Info: 1977 Ford F250 Custom; 351M/400 EGR
Carb; 2bbl -Tag ID: 7T DBA D7G1
58,000 orig. miles
I have no clue as to the carb. type. I doesn't say motorcraft or any other manuf.
Locals want $250 for an overhaul, but I'd rather do it, even though I'm a novice.

Chris D.
Dallas, TX


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 09:26:13 -0500
Subject: Re: 351M Carburetor help
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 5/16/2000 11:16 AM, Chris Dains at cdains earthlink.net wrote:

>
> I need some help on the carburetor for my 77 F250. The truck has been idling
> rough. It seems to be running rich and idles fast, then reverts back to
> normal, then repeats the process. With the engine cold, you can remove the
> air cleaner and smell a slight bit of fuel.
> My Chilton's, Haynes, and Ford V8 book are all removal and
> overhaul. Any recommendations of some carb. books or ways to tell if it indeed
> needs an overhaul??
>
> Info: 1977 Ford F250 Custom; 351M/400 EGR
> Carb; 2bbl -Tag ID: 7T DBA D7G1
> 58,000 orig. miles
> I have no clue as to the carb. type. I doesn't say motorcraft or any other
> manuf.
> Locals want $250 for an overhaul, but I'd rather do it, even though I'm a
> novice.
>
> Chris D.
> Dallas, TX

Chris,

A rebuild kit shouldn't be very expensive, $30 or so I would guess. I would
go ahead and put a kit in it. Your problems may not be solved by working on
the carb, though. You need to be sure that all of your vacuum lines are
connected and not leaking. Plug any lines or ports that are open. You
probably have a vacuum tree connected to your thermostat. This item may be
dysfunctional, or you may have a cracked vacuum line that only leaks after
the tree opens its ports. You may have something as simple as a sticky choke
valve.

The fuel smell I would say is normal. You can check your power valve by
looking down the throat of the carb (engine off) and pumping the gas pedal
once. You should see two streams of fuel. If not, your power valve needs
replaced. It resides on the front and goes in and out like a plunger.
Performance wise, a bad power valve usually results in hesitation when you
give it the gas. The other stuff in the carb you can't really check. Putting
a kit in mainly involves cleaning up the inside of the carb, replacing the
needle and seat, and replacing all of the gaskets. Sometimes there are some
check balls included. You may have to buy the power valve separate. Some
people call the power valve the accelerator pump.

Hope this helps.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Christopher Worley" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 351M Carburetor help
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 08:21:19 PDT

Hey Chris,

Try calling Mister Carburetor on hwy 67 in Cedar Hill, I bought a rebuilt
carb for my Chriscraft skiboat for less than 250 it was a old GM Rochester
type. I am pretty sure that they will have a rebuilt carb for cheap.

Just another alternative

Chris Worley
Waxahachie, TX
67 F100 352


>From: "Chris Dains" earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: [61-79-list] 351M Carburetor help
>Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 09:16:12 -0700
>
>
>I need some help on the carburetor for my 77 F250. The truck has been
>idling rough. It seems to be running rich and idles fast, then reverts
>back to normal, then repeats the process. With the engine cold, you can
>remove the air cleaner and smell a slight bit of fuel.
>I can't find a good book that offers adjustments, everything is for carb.
>overhaul. My Chilton's, Haynes, and Ford V8 book are all removal and
>overhaul. Any recommendations of some carb. books or ways to tell if it
>indeed needs an overhaul??
>
>Info: 1977 Ford F250 Custom; 351M/400 EGR
> Carb; 2bbl -Tag ID: 7T DBA D7G1
> 58,000 orig. miles
>I have no clue as to the carb. type. I doesn't say motorcraft or any other
>manuf.
>Locals want $250 for an overhaul, but I'd rather do it, even though I'm a
>novice.
>
>Chris D.
>Dallas, TX
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>

________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:11:34 -0700
From: Don Grossman mac.com>
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner

>In a message dated 5/15/00 1:09:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>
>
>
> My owners manual indicates that I should lock the hubs in for a few
>days every
>month with it in 2-WD just to keep everything properly lubricated. Thanks
>Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

If you do have a LS or locker in the front and all you want to do is
rotate the gears is to lock in only 1 side or better yet shift into
4H with the hubs unlocked.

--
Don Grossman
duckdon mac.com

43 GPW
63 F-100 4x4
77 F250
99 Contour

------------------------------

From: "Michael White" csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: 351M Carburetor help
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 13:02:28 -0600

Before spending any time or money on other areas, I'd suggest searching
for a vacuum leak. Follow all vacuum lines from source to destination
looking for loose or damage hose.


Michael
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

> I need some help on the carburetor for my 77 F250. The truck has been
idling rough. It seems to be running rich and idles fast, then reverts back
to normal, then repeats the process. With the engine cold, you can remove
the air cleaner and smell a slight bit of fuel.
> I can't find a good book that offers adjustments, everything is for carb.
overhaul. My Chilton's, Haynes, and Ford V8 book are all removal and
overhaul. Any recommendations of some carb. books or ways to tell if it
indeed needs an overhaul??
>
> Info: 1977 Ford F250 Custom; 351M/400 EGR
> Carb; 2bbl -Tag ID: 7T DBA D7G1
> 58,000 orig. miles
> I have no clue as to the carb. type. I doesn't say motorcraft or any
other manuf.
> Locals want $250 for an overhaul, but I'd rather do it, even though I'm a
novice.
>
> Chris D.
> Dallas, TX


------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 18:02:14 GMT
Subject: Re: 351M Carburetor help


>A rebuild kit shouldn't be very expensive, $30 or so I would guess. I would

>go ahead and put a kit in it. Your problems may not be solved by working on

>the carb, though. You need to be sure that all of your vacuum lines are
>connected and not leaking. Plug any lines or ports that are open. You
>probably have a vacuum tree connected to your thermostat. This item may be

>dysfunctional, or you may have a cracked vacuum line that only leaks after

>the tree opens its ports. You may have something as simple as a sticky choke

>valve.
>

Some very good advice, followed by :


>The fuel smell I would say is normal. You can check your power valve by
>looking down the throat of the carb (engine off) and pumping the gas pedal

>once. You should see two streams of fuel. If not, your power valve needs
>replaced. It resides on the front and goes in and out like a plunger.


John, you've just described the accelerator pump, or at least my understanding
of it anyway ... the power valve though I'm not sure how it acts, or rather
when it acts, maybe someone can explain it to me for sure ? I know the accelerator
pump pumps a little extra fuel in when you step on it so that the engine can
actually accelerate itself (otherwise it would just lean out), this is usually
found to be bad when you step on it and the thing dies if its really bad, or
hesitates immensly if its just sorta bad.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 14:23:56 -0500
Subject: Re: 351M Carburetor help
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 5/16/2000 1:02 PM, wish at wish ford-trucks.net wrote:

> John, you've just described the accelerator pump, or at least my understanding
> of it anyway ... the power valve though I'm not sure how it acts, or rather
> when it acts, maybe someone can explain it to me for sure ? I know the
> accelerator
> pump pumps a little extra fuel in when you step on it so that the engine can
> actually accelerate itself (otherwise it would just lean out), this is usually
> found to be bad when you step on it and the thing dies if its really bad, or
> hesitates immensly if its just sorta bad.

Wish,

From the discussions I have seen, the accelerator pump and power valve are
one and the same. I could be wrong here. We always called it an accelerator
pump. That squirt of fuel charges the engine so that it doesn't lean out and
die when you suddenly open the throttle butterflies wide open. When it goes
bad the gasoline gets by it somehow, either around the edges because it has
hardened (top mounted as Rochester Q-jets) or gets a crack in the diaphragm
(front mounted as 351m 2V).

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "Bill Beyer" pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: 351M Carburetor help
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 12:50:45 -0700

At least in the Holley world accelerator pumps and power valves are 2
different things. The accelerator pump on a Holley 4150/4160 is mounted on
the bottom of the front bowl while double pumpers have 2 accelerator pumps,
one on each bowl. The accelerator pump does indeed shoot "extra" fuel into
the throat throught the "shooters" when the pedal is pressed. The amount and
duration of the the fuel is controlled by both the size of the shooter and
the accelerator pump cam.

The power valve(s) is "inside" the carburetor, it screws into the jet plate
and opens with a specific amount of vacuum allowing more fuel from the bowl
into the throat. I don't know enough about the Motorcrafts to say whether or
not they have power valves but most carbs do have accelerator pumps of one
sort or another.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

----- Original Message -----
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>
To: <61-79-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 12:23 PM
Subject: [61-79-list] Re: 351M Carburetor help


> on 5/16/2000 1:02 PM, wish at wish ford-trucks.net wrote:
>
> > John, you've just described the accelerator pump, or at least my
understanding
> > of it anyway ... the power valve though I'm not sure how it acts, or
rather
> > when it acts, maybe someone can explain it to me for sure ? I know the
> > accelerator
> > pump pumps a little extra fuel in when you step on it so that the engine
can
> > actually accelerate itself (otherwise it would just lean out), this is
usually
> > found to be bad when you step on it and the thing dies if its really
bad, or
> > hesitates immensly if its just sorta bad.
>
> Wish,
>
> From the discussions I have seen, the accelerator pump and power valve are
> one and the same. I could be wrong here. We always called it an
accelerator
> pump. That squirt of fuel charges the engine so that it doesn't lean out
and
> die when you suddenly open the throttle butterflies wide open. When it
goes
> bad the gasoline gets by it somehow, either around the edges because it
has
> hardened (top mounted as Rochester Q-jets) or gets a crack in the
diaphragm
> (front mounted as 351m 2V).




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 15:29:04 -0500
Subject: Re: 351M Carburetor help
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 5/16/2000 2:50 PM, Bill Beyer at bbeyer pacifier.com wrote:

> At least in the Holley world accelerator pumps and power valves are 2
> different things.

Thank you, Bill. I didn't know this. I apologize for leading others astray.

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: BOgborn webtv.net (Bryan Ogborn)
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:00:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 351M Heads

I have a 77 f-150 w/ a 351M and a 3-speed manual tranny. I want to put
a 4v on it. I have heard that you have to change the heads as well as
the intake. Supposedly to get a larger chamber in the heads. I don't
know if it makes any difference or not, but, it is a non-catalyst motor.
Any truth to this rumor or is someone blowing smoke up my tailpipe.
Thanks,
Bryan in Taylorsville, KY


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/BOgborn/TheOgbornFamilyof


------------------------------

From: "George Litton" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 351M Heads
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 17:36:03 PDT

Bryan,

No need to change the heads. There are several 4v manifolds for the
400-351m engines. The 2v heads are actually better for low end torque due
to the smaller ports and valves. Just put on a new manifold and enjoy the
benifits


George Litton in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho


>From: BOgborn webtv.net (Bryan Ogborn)
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] 351M Heads
>Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:00:34 -0400 (EDT)
>
>I have a 77 f-150 w/ a 351M and a 3-speed manual tranny. I want to put
>a 4v on it. I have heard that you have to change the heads as well as
>the intake. Supposedly to get a larger chamber in the heads. I don't
>know if it makes any difference or not, but, it is a non-catalyst motor.
>Any truth to this rumor or is someone blowing smoke up my tailpipe.
>Thanks,
>Bryan in Taylorsville, KY
>
>
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://community.webtv.net/BOgborn/TheOgbornFamilyof
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>

________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 22:38:57 EDT
Subject: Re: 351M Carburetor help

In a message dated 5/16/2000 3:04:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
wish ford-trucks.net writes:

>
> John, you've just described the accelerator pump, or at least my
> understanding
> of it anyway ... the power valve though I'm not sure how it acts, or rather
> when it acts, maybe someone can explain it to me for sure ? I know the
> accelerator
> pump pumps a little extra fuel in when you step on it so that the engine
can
> actually accelerate itself (otherwise it would just lean out), this is
> usually
> found to be bad when you step on it and the thing dies if its really bad,
or
> hesitates immensly if its just sorta bad.
>
> J

Here's my take on a "power valve," especially as to how it applies to Holly's.
You have your Idle screws and passages that control the idle mixture and the
throttle just open fuel mixture. Then is when the Main jets begin to take
over (with he accelerator pump to cover the throttle opening lean mixture
transition till the mains catch up again. Air does move faster than fuel to
changes in velocity). You'll run off the main jets and are jetted mostly for
cruising. When you really get into the throttle is when the power valve kicks
in. They are rated at a specific vacuum level. example a 6.5 activated at 6.5
in of vacuum. When the vacuum level drops bellow that point, it opens
enriching the fuel mixture even more (it in addition to the mains). Since
when we are cruising our vacuum is hopefully above that level, it's off.
Think of it as a vacuum activated main jet.

George

------------------------------

From: "G & J Boling" alltel.net>
Subject: Re: 351M Heads
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 22:48:38 -0400


> >
> >I have a 77 f-150 w/ a 351M and a 3-speed manual tranny. I want to put
> >a 4v on it. I have heard that you have to change the heads as well as
> >the intake.
> >Thanks,
> >Bryan in Taylorsville, KY
>==========================================================
myself i would advise to install a new cam and lifters designed for a 4bbl
intake to get the proper lift and duration for the 4bbl intake also unless
thats done it most likely will not do much good to change the intake only
look up to see what the 351 4bbl motors were using for a camshaft to see the
differences were in the 2 of them
gordon


------------------------------

From: "craig taylor" hotmail.com>
Subject: 78 f250 front axle what is it?....


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