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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Tue, 16 May 2000 01:14:15 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 01:14:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 61-79-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #100
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------------------------------------
61-79-list Digest Mon, 15 May 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 100

In This Issue:
Dana spindle nut socket size
Re: I Have a Sick 390FE
Re: FE distributor
Re: I Have a Sick 390FE
Removal of Tint Film
Re: Dana spindle nut socket size
Re: Removal of Tint Film
Re: Newbie 4x4 owner questions, why f/r ratios are differ
Re: Newbie 4x4 owner questions, why f/r ratios
Re: All Ford Day Seattle International Raceway
Newbie has figured out the transfer case...
Re: putting 71 body on 76 frame
Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner
Re: Dana spindle nut socket size
Re: Removal of Tint Film
Re: Dana spindle nut socket size

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 15 May 2000 02:57:53 -0700
From: John Bauer flashcom.net>
Subject: Dana spindle nut socket size

I usually find myself beating off the spindle nuts on Dana 60 full floating rears. Does anyone know the size/type of socket I could buy to make this a little neater of a job than the ole hammer and screw driver? Or, is there a "special" tool from Ford/Dana required because the nut is an odd size, pattern, etc.?

John

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 07:50:00 -0500
Subject: Re: I Have a Sick 390FE
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 5/12/2000 4:33 PM, G & J Boling at flash1 alltel.net wrote:

>> Don't be spraying ether around a running engine with possible arcing plug
>> wires unless your insurance on you and your truck is paid up.
>>
>> -- John
>> jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-)
> =========================================================
> GOSH
> guess i have been lucky ive been doing it for 40 yrs when all else failed
> and i am not a room temperature YET
> and havent burnt any of them down either
> gordon

Gordon,

This is like people smoking around batteries. I know people that have been
doing it for years. All it takes is once.... :-)

-- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: "wish" ford-trucks.net>
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 13:02:03 GMT
Subject: Re: FE distributor

>Ladies and gents of the list, I'm looking for a points distributor for an FE.
Nostalgia, or originality, has made me decide I want to set the points every
month. I just need the distributor body and shaft. I have a good plate assembly,
but due to a lack of oil pressure, the thrust bushing ate the bottom of the
housing. The distributor now has about 1/4" of verticle play-not good! Anyway,
let me know what you've got and how much you want, and we'll make a deal!
>
>Jason Kendrick in southwest Iowa

Jason, just hit the local salvage yard, there's almost always at least one old
FE sittin in there ... the one around here kind of ticks me off sometimes ("Yeah
that bronco's sold, they're comin to get it tonight" they told me a month ago
about a 78 Bronco with no rust on the tailgate!) ... but if you really need
one I can probably dig one up ... you have an elec. ign. one ??? How about the
elec. ignition wiring ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 11:47:28 EDT
Subject: Re: I Have a Sick 390FE

In a message dated 5/15/00 5:52:16 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
jlagrone ford-trucks.com writes:

<< This is like people smoking around batteries. I know people that have been
doing it for years. All it takes is once.... :-)
>>

Thats sumthin I do not ever let happen around me. While workin as a diesel
tech, I watched the guy two stalls down get nailed by an exploding battery.
He just kinda stood there, didnt know what to do. Thankfully the guy next to
him threw him on the ground and turned a hose on him, while I ran to the tool
room for the baking soda. only smart thing the guy did was wear his goggles,
saved his eyes. One thing to point out, he was an older guy, one of the
types that said "Ive been doin it for years, that stuff doesnt really happen,"

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety" 460 4speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:26:13 -0700
From: Jeff Harsha ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Removal of Tint Film

does anyone know of a good way to remove window tinting film? the film
on my 69 f100's windows is all scratched and I would like to remove
it, but all I can do is scrape it off ! There has to be a better way!
Any ideas?


------------------------------

From: "Michael White" csolutions.net>
Subject: Re: Dana spindle nut socket size
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:37:46 -0600

I think your best bet is to measure the spindle nut and purchase the
socket at your local auto parts store. I've got a Dana #60 rear here from a
68 F250 CS that measures 2 and 3/8", but yours might be different.

Michael

~~~~~~~~~~~~
> I usually find myself beating off the spindle nuts on Dana 60 full
floating rears. Does anyone know the size/type of socket I could buy to
make this a little neater of a job than the ole hammer and screw driver?
Or, is there a "special" tool from Ford/Dana required because the nut is an
odd size, pattern, etc.?
>
> John


------------------------------

From: SevnD2aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 13:20:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Removal of Tint Film

In a message dated 05/15/2000 12:35:59 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bigjeffford-trucks.com writes:

<< does anyone know of a good way to remove window tinting film? >>

I would recommend using a hair drier or a commercial heat gun. This will heat
the film and break down the adhesive as to allow you to pull it off of the
glass. Then get some adhesive cleaner and remover. It is made by 3M and
smells like lighter fluid. I suppose lighter fluid will work also, but you
will have a smell left behind by the lighter fluid. After applying the
adhesive cleaner, use a scraper ( has a razor type blade ) to scrape off the
softened adhesive. Then soak a small cloth with the adhesive cleaner and wipe
entire glass surface to remover any small amounts left behind. Clean with
glass cleaner.

Hope this helps!

Rollie H. Hunt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 03:30:19 -0400
From: George Selby ibox.net>
Subject: Re: Newbie 4x4 owner questions, why f/r ratios are differ

Here are some answers, in no particular order.

Why are the front and rear ratios not exactly the same: Because each
axle manufacturer uses different tooth counts on the gear ratios to
achieve the same ratio, and this depends on the size and thickness of
the ring gear. For instance at around 4.1 ratio a Ford 9" has 41 teeth
on the ring and 10 on the pinion for a 4.1:1 ratio. A Dana 44 has 45
teeth on the ring and 11 on the pinion for a 4.0909:1 ratio.

Similarly at 3.5 a 9" is 35/10 for 3.5, a Dana 44 is 39/11 for 3.545,
and Ford 8.8" has 32/9 for 3.555. A difference of less than about .05
(numerically) in the ratios is ok, as long as you use it off pavement
(or on icy, snowy pavement.) The 3.5 ratio is most off in our Fords,
with 3.5 and 3.545 in the rear and front respectively.

Using hubs: Riding around with the hubs locked and the t-case in 2wd is
a lot better than the t-case in 4wd and the hubs unlocked. Riding
around with the hubs locked is like riding around in a Jeep Wrangler or
new Dodge Ram, as they have no hubs to disconnect at all. You just shift
into 4hi as needed and the front end is always turning (Some older
Wranglers and Cherokees have a vacuum disconnect, but they dropped it
and just let the front freewheel.) On the other hand, locking hubs are
designed for two circumstances: either the axle and the hub are turing
at the same speed (locked,) or the hub is spinning faster than the axle
(unlocked.) Making the axle spin faster than the hub at anything more
than idle speed is asking for trouble. It can quickly destroy both the
hub and chew the teeth off the axle stub (ask me how I know!) Now I do
occasionally use 2wd low, but that is only for short distances, usually
backing a trailer.

Detents: My truck doesn't really have detents on the shifter, you can
feel it in each gear but you can slide it around a bit in each.

Shifting with the automatic: You can shift from 2wd to 4hi just by
pulling straight back on the lever when the hubs are locked and the
truck is moving. If it doesn't go right in, either let off the
throttle, or give it a little throttle, one or the other and you'll drop
right in. My only automatic experience with a 4wd is in my 82 Jeep
Cherokee SJ, and the only way I can make it go into 4LO is to turn off
the engine, and then shift, then restart, if you don't it gets stuck in
neutral, and then you have to shut off the engine anyway. Park doesn't
seem to cut it. This is a NP 208 t-case, however.

George


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 13:06:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Newbie 4x4 owner questions, why f/r ratios
From: John LaGrone ford-trucks.com>

on 5/15/2000 2:30 AM, George Selby at digimanibox.net wrote:

> if you don't it gets stuck in
> neutral, and then you have to shut off the engine anyway. Park doesn't
> seem to cut it. This is a NP 208 t-case, however.

I don't know much about different transfer cases in Fords as all of my 4x4s
were from the other company, but farm experience tells me that in Neutral,
the output shafts on any transmission may creep. That's why you don't work
on the sickle bar with the engine running. Perhaps this has something to do
with Park not working as it locks the output shaft.

-- John
jlagroneford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


------------------------------

From: canzusseanet.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 18:09:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: All Ford Day Seattle International Raceway

At 10:41 PM 14:05:2000 -0700, Tim Bowman wrote:
>For all you Pacific NW Ford enthusiasts, there is an ALL FORD DAY at
>Seattle International Raceway on Saturday, June 3, 2000.
>
>On Sunday, June 4, 2000, the All Ford Picnic is being held at Bellevue
>Community College
>

Hi Tim;
I plan to be at both of the events, but can't decide which vehicle
I'm gonna be in....

I was thinking about bringing the MG, as it's Ford powered, but
I'd prolly get laughed out...

Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in.....
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 22:37:19 -0400
From: David Wadson air.on.ca>
Subject: Newbie has figured out the transfer case...

After a somewhat successful trip to the scrapyard tonight (nearly managed
to field strip the wiring harness from a truck in under 30 minutes) I
played around in the driveway with the transfer case in the truck. You guys
were right...it does work much better being in neutral! The transfer case
shifter also has a fair bit of motion to it in each gear but I did find it
a little tricky finding the gear positions. Going from 2-Hi to Neutral and
2-Hi to 4-Hi were fairly noticeable and shifted rather easily. Going from
neutral to 4-Lo was a little bit stiffer, required a good shove and
occasional gave a good grind! Getting it from 2-Lo back to Neutral took a
good reef on the shifter and some jiggling the truck back and forth a bit.
I'm really looking forward to getting this truck safetied and out to the
inlaws house in the country! Good thing the driveway already has some big
holes in it!


David Wadson - wadsondair.on.ca
"PS1" - 79 F100 ...ground into a million pieces.
"PS2" - 78 F100 ...currently alive and kicking.
"PS3" - 79 F150 4x4 ...now what have I gotten myself into.
Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 22:18:09 -0500
From: Stu Varner ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: putting 71 body on 76 frame

At 11:15 PM 5/13/00 AKDT, you wrote:
>ok, I purchased the 71 today.

Schu,

Congrats on the new truck!!

>
>The only place on the truck I can find the vin number is inside the door.


If you look on the passengers side (top) frame rail under the hood you will
find the VIN stamped into the steel.
Also just where the passenger would be sitting will be another VIN number
but you will have to remove the cab to see it.
When I took my 71 apart a few years ago the VIN number under the hood on
the frame rail did not match the VIN number under the cab. Go Figure!
They were off by 2 digits....makes NO sense to me.

Good luck!

Stu
Nuke GM!
http://www.ford-trucks.com/~nukegm

------------------------------

From: SHill48337aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:19:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Basic questions from a newbie 4x4 owner

In a message dated 5/15/00 1:09:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bronco78alaska.com writes:

<< Well yes and no.. with the hubs locked but the transfer case in 2wd you
should not notice much in the way of drive line bind.. the front axle in no
way is connected to the rear when the TC is in 2wd. If you have some type
of traction adding differential in the front end this would most definitely
increase the "push" you feel with the hubs locked.

Erik Marquez
bronco78alaska.com >>
I agree with you on the 2-WD, I thought part of the discussion indicated
there was no problem running 4-WD locked axles. But, maybe I was wrong. My
owners manual indicates that I should lock the hubs in for a few days every
month with it in 2-WD just to keep everything properly lubricated. Thanks
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: SHill48337aol.com
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:27:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Dana spindle nut socket size

In a message dated 5/15/00 5:59:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bauerjfflashcom.net writes:

<< I usually find myself beating off the spindle nuts on Dana 60 full
floating rears. Does anyone know the size/type of socket I could buy to make
this a little neater of a job than the ole hammer and screw driver? Or, is
there a "special" tool from Ford/Dana required because the nut is an odd
size, pattern, etc.?

John >>
The size is 2 and 9/16 inch, they carry them at NAPA and most other parts
stores. These are special sockets make sure you ask for the one for a Dana
60. They cost a little over $20, but they sure do make the job much more
enjoyable.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460

------------------------------

From: Natp244cs.com
Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 00:24:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Removal of Tint Film

In a message dated 5/15/00 11:35:59 AM Central Daylight Time,
bigjeffford-trucks.com writes:

<< does anyone know of a good way to remove window tinting film? the film
on my 69 f100's windows is all scratched and I would like to remove
it, but all I can do is scrape it off ! There has to be a better way!
Any ideas? >>

I removed the tinting film from my 90 last year. I got one of those scrapers
that holds a razor blade (someone else has aready mentioned it). What I did
was just scrape the film off- it peeled fairly easily. Then came the hardest
part: getting the adheisive residue off of the glass after the film was
removed. I tried heating it, but concluded that the stuff they use must be
made to stand up under high temps (makes sense, after all)- and I tried a
number of solvents as well. The one that worked the best for me was good ol'
finger nail polish remover. I'm not sure if all film uses the same
adheisive, and I would suspect that there was something that would have done
the job better than my wife's personal beauty supplies, but it did the trick.
The whole job took me about a half an hour to do the back glass.

Nate 64
1990 F-150 XLT
1964 F-100 Custom Cab under re-construction (which narrowly escaped a barage
of falling oak trees in a storm friday night)

------------------------------

From: "George Litton" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dana spindle nut socket size
Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 23:12:21 PDT

John,

As Burt Hill says, 2 9/16" is the socket size, but beware! Brand X[C^*#]
uses the same size, but the Ford nut has rounded corners, and the two
sockets do not interchange.

They are a good investment. I ask myself how I did it with a chisel, when
this is so cheap. They are 3/4 inch drive, so get an adapter, if you do not
have a 3/4 inch ratchet.

George Litton in Coeur d'Alene, Idaho


>From: John Bauer flashcom.net>
>Reply-To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-listford-trucks.com
>Subject: [61-79-list] Dana spindle nut socket size
>Date: 15 May 2000 02:57:53 -0700
>
> I usually find myself beating off the spindle nuts on Dana 60 full
>floating rears. Does anyone know the size/type of socket I could buy to
>make this a little neater of a job than the ole hammer and screw driver?
>Or, is there a "special" tool from Ford/Dana required because the nut is an
>odd size, pattern, etc.?
>
>John
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listarford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the
>message.
>

________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

End of 61-79-list Digest V2000 #100
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