61-79-list Digest V2000 #10

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61-79-list Digest Thu, 17 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 010

In This Issue:
Re: 390 ticking
Re: 390 ticking
Re: FW: 360 in 74
Steering shaft comment
Re: Steering shaft comment
Re: FW: 360 in 74
BRAKES
390 ticking
Re: FW: 360 in 74
test
test2
Choke tubre
Car prices
Re: Diesel into 79 F250
Re: 73 F-100 2WD manuals
Rag Joint/FE
choke plenum
Intake manifold for 460
How much is it worth?
Re: How much is it worth?
Re: 73 F-100 2WD manuals
First Timer --- Holley 4bbl
Re: Steering shaft comment
Re: Ticking F-E ?
Re: More on Ticking F-E ?
Re: Intake manifold for 460
Re: More on Ticking F-E ?
Re: First Timer --- Holley 4bbl
Re: Steering shaft comment

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Samuel L. Benham" acsol.net>
Subject: Re: 390 ticking
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:51:36 -0700

I had the same proplem when I put my 390 together. I had a tall cam put in
and used the lifters and valve springs recommended for my cam. But what I
thought was one lifter ended up being about 8 lifters. I found this out by
pulling off the valve covers and using a piece of rubber tubing to listen
to the top of the valve stem. The ticking noise wasn't loud, not like a
completely collapsed lifter, but it was loud enough to hear inside the cab,
and like you said it faded in and out. Like you, I double checked my
preload and everything was correct. When I took it to my Grandfather, who
is a well known mechanic/machinist in this area, he told me that the
increased lift simply made the valve train a little louder and more
noticeable than a stock valve train. I've put 5000 miles on the engine so
far and it hasn't gotten any worse. I have decided to ignore it. My
neighbor's truck makes the same noise and it doesn't bother him. Not the
most scientific approach in the world, but your not alone.

Sam

FE guys,

I just installed a new cam, springs, and lifters in my truck, but now I
am getting a slight ticking noise. Last night I pulled the manifold to
check the lifters and cam and everything looks real good. The lifters
where perfect on the bottom and there was oil everywhere. I should also
note that the original pushrods where to long (I figure because of the
reground cam that was in it) and I ended up replacing all of the
pushrods with ones that where .040 shorter. I measured the preload on
the lifters and everything looks fine.

Anyone have any suggestions on other things to look for that could be
ticking... I can't figure out where it is coming from.

Oh, one last thing... I am thinking of putting up a web site dedicated
to ford FE engines, and am wondering how many people would be willing to
contrib info, or even use the site.

Thanks

schu
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------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: 390 ticking
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 14:27:15 -0600

> I had the same proplem when I put my 390 together. I had a tall
> cam put in
> and used the lifters and valve springs recommended for my cam.
> I've put 5000 miles on the
> engine so
> far and it hasn't gotten any worse. I have decided to ignore it.

I can admit that my truck does the same thing, not quite the same mileage on
it yet, but it has definitely not gotten worse, maybe better, but not worse
... so I've been kind of ignoring it as well, if it ever gets worse I'll
look into it likely.

Thanks for the reassurances :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: FW: 360 in 74
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 14:32:36 -0600

> I have a 1969 360, and was wondering if it will bolt up
> to the motor mounts in a 74 f-100 without any modifications.
>

Does the 74 have a 360/390 in it as well ???

If so, then there should be no problems

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

------------------------------

From: BDIJXS

aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:34:50 EST
Subject: Steering shaft comment

Big Gary Wrote:

<< The slip joint part alone was cheaper. I rather like the idea of
the double ujoint shaft eliminating the rag joint. May add a tad more
harshness to the steering, not sure.
>>

Do you mean two standard universal joints???

I think this might cause trouble...the slip joint is supposed to allow for
movement between the rubber-mounted cab and the solidly-mounted steering
box.....isn't it?

Probably need a top notch mechanical engineering type like Wish to get us
straightened out here.....

CJ

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: Steering shaft comment
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 14:53:19 -0600

> Do you mean two standard universal joints???
>
> I think this might cause trouble...the slip joint is supposed to
> allow for
> movement between the rubber-mounted cab and the solidly-mounted steering
> box.....isn't it?
>
> Probably need a top notch mechanical engineering type like Wish to get us
> straightened out here.....
>

Well, this might be a bit of a stretch but here's how I look at it ... that
rubber isn't really very thick, that and the bolts going through it don't
allow too much movement ... so since that bar is nearly horizontal I don't
think you'd have too much problem with it if your mounts are all secure ...
if however you end up with some slop in the mounts, then you may have other,
more pressing problems ...

Do the systems utilizing rag joints have a slip joint in there too ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

ps. its Ag. Engineering specializing in Power and Machinery ;)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:58:20 -0800
From: "JB

MCIWorld" mciworld.com>
Subject: Re: FW: 360 in 74

No, I'm not sure what was in it originally, but right not it
has a 460/C6 in it which I'm taking out and putting in a short
bed 74 f-100. I want to put the 360 back in the 74 long bed
to sell.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: 61-79-list-bounce

ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:61-79-list-bounce

ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of William S. Hart
> Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 12:33 PM
> To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [61-79-list] Re: FW: 360 in 74
>
>
> > I have a 1969 360, and was wondering if it will bolt up
> > to the motor mounts in a 74 f-100 without any modifications.
> >
>
> Does the 74 have a 360/390 in it as well ???
>
> If so, then there should be no problems
>
> Just my $.02
> wish
>
> 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
> 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:02:11 -0600
Subject: BRAKES
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

>I hope I have explained this well enough. If you are the least bit familiar
>with hydraulics the system is not that hard to visualize but I may have
>complicated it too much?

I think I understood every word.

So the front master piston and the rear master piston are separate physical
entities, huh? Spring goes between them. Hmmm. It has been a long time since
I've had a mc apart. The next time mine dies I'm going to take it apart
before I replace it. I believe you, Gary, I just need to reinforce your
description with a real experience. That spring would explain a lot.

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:08:46 -0600
Subject: 390 ticking
From: "John LaGrone" ford-trucks.com>

Schu,

If the ticking is in the valve train, about the only thing left is a worn
rocker arm or a sticky lifter.

-- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com <]:-) <]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)<]:-)
1979 F150 Custom, Long Wide Bed, Regular Cab, 351M, C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!

------------------------------

From: "William S. Hart" iastate.edu>
Subject: Re: FW: 360 in 74
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:11:52 -0600

> No, I'm not sure what was in it originally, but right not it
> has a 460/C6 in it which I'm taking out and putting in a short
> bed 74 f-100. I want to put the 360 back in the 74 long bed
> to sell.
>

In that case you'll need to change the motor mounts and transmission to get
it to all bolt up. On the plus side this stuff should be readily available
at a salvage yard as they are quite common.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 17:02:36 -0800
From: "JB

MCIWorld" mciworld.com>
Subject: test

testing

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 17:04:00 -0800
From: "JB

MCIWorld" mciworld.com>
Subject: test2

------------------------------

From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Choke tubre
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 17:28:41 -0500

Gary:

When I was running headers on my FE's there was no place to connect the
tube too, cause on the FE it is in the exhaust manifolds and not the
crossover of the intake. I would run a few turns of copper tubing around
one of the header pipes and connect it to the steel asbestos covered choke
pipe or in a couple of cases I did away with the steel tube altogether and
ran the copper all the way to the choke adjuster spring thing. Had to keep
it covered with a very long piece of asbestos covering so as not too loose
too much heat, but with some trial and error adjustments it worked very
well.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al

------------------------------

From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: Car prices
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 17:53:48 -0500

Denny writes: >>Any of you all old enough, with your memory still intact,
who can
remember what a new Ford, car or truck, sold for back around 1955? Or
any time back around then?<<

Yep!!!! I'm old enough. Not sure if my memory is good enough though!!!

I bought a 1956 Monterey Mercury with the hottest engine I could get(which
meant dual exhaust and a 4bbl carb) and Automatic tranny for $1800+ change.
Can't remember the exact price, but I was dealing on the Merc and a ,56 T
Bird. I opted for the Merc because I could buy it $50 cheaper than I could
buy the T Bird. The Montclair was a bit more expensive car and was
basically the same price as the T Bird.....Then in '61 I bought a Starliner
2 dr HT with factory hi performance 390(375 horsepower) that had a 3 speed
with electric OD(no power except the engine) for $2300+ change. I also
bought a 1967 Galaxie 500 2 dr HT with FE 390(335 horsepower), automatic,
4bbl, dual exhaust and power steering and air conditioning and vinyl roof
for $3300+ change. Bought these brand spanking new off the showroom floor.
Wish I still had all of them.

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:14:28 -0800
From: wicowboy gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Diesel into 79 F250

Jeff Simmons wrote:
>
> Bob, I've been thinking about doing that myself, I have a 68' 1-ton
> duelly, I would like to put one of the new Power Stroke's in. I haven't
> looked into it yet but, I believe you would
> use the frame stands from donor truck, Radiator, and front coil springs,

Ever since I bought our first powerstroke in '96 I wanted to put a
powerstroke in a 70's series until I priced out a powerstroke from Ford
almost $11,000. I have since been searching, waiting for one to get
seriously crunched, I have only found one which was a '97 X-Cab hit by a
semi from the rear, It went for $6000 at the dealer auction but at that
time I didn't have a dealer liscence. Grrr...
Anyways in case your interested, I don't know where you are located but
I am in Wisconsin and my local boneyard just got a whole fleet of '89-91
3/4-ton diesels from some company that just upgraded their fleet. I
think they have 6 total, all running (2 have blown trannies) with high
(probably hard) miles for parts only. If you are interested let me know
and I can get their number and address for ya or if you end up looking
for specific parts let me know and I could go grab them for ya.

------------------------------

From: JUMPINFORD

aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:51:05 EST
Subject: Re: 73 F-100 2WD manuals

In a message dated 2/16/00 3:05:19 PM Pacific Standard Time, dennyk

wenet.net
writes:

<< > To my amazement,
> it is a '73 F-100 2WD.
> I told him I would hunt down a set of factory manuals for it. >>

Ive got an original 73 owners manual, and even the dealer booklet for 73, I
found them at a swap meet when I was building my 73, but now I got a 74....
If your interested, lemme know. got a lot of cool info in there.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:14:45 -0800
From: scott ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Rag Joint/FE

>The slip joint part alone was cheaper. I rather like the idea of
>the double ujoint shaft eliminating the rag joint. May add a tad more
>harshness to the steering, not sure.

I am currently running the 2 u-joints and yes the it is harsher.
I see Borgeson aand Flaming River both have a "inline"vibration dampener
available.Any body currently using one?
Some day I want to change my 76 Highboy's Power assist steering over to
78-79 P/s.When I do there is definatly some sort of vibration dampener
being installed and possibly some sort of collapsable column for a
little safety too.

Thanks for the Holley choke tip Gary.

>I am thinking of putting up a web site dedicated
>to ford FE engines, and am wondering how many people would be willing >to contrib info, or even use the site.

>Geee ... twist my arm and I'll probably help out ... ouch. okay.

Me too.As long as there is a FTE link:)

>rocker itself is not getting enough oil (not likely in a FE, I know :-))

there goes my blood pressure again;)

------------------------------

From: "Mike" connect.ab.ca>
Subject: choke plenum
Date: (No, or invalid, date.)

Hey Gary, seems to me I once saw a choke plenum kit in a product line called 'HELP' at a local auto part discounter. It strapped on to the exhaust manifold and came with all tubing, straps etc. If we're thinking about the same thing and you can't locate one where you are, I'll see if they're still available. mike

------------------------------

From: "Pat" aisl.bc.ca>
Subject: Intake manifold for 460
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:48:08 -0800

Howdy Folks,
Thought that I'd check my beloved list to see whether one of the folks
had a good single carb intake manifold for a 460 that they could be talked
into selling for a tremendous price. Something along the Edelbrock 460
Performer line or better.
Patsplace
77 F250 4X4
78 F150 W/Overloads
72 Ranger parts truck
79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction)
78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT.

------------------------------

From: "PitStop Performance" hotmail.com>
Subject: How much is it worth?
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 02:59:04 CST

Hello List,

I have a friend who is selling his old Ford truck and parts. The truck is a
'77 F150. It had a 6/3-speed and now has a 302/C4. He only ran the 302 for a
short period of time before unhooking everything and getting it ready to
pull... I don't know if the 302 runs or not. I think not... 302 is still in
the truck just sitting there. The body is OK. It had a really cheap/cheezy
paint and body job done a few years back. Rust shows over the rear wheel
wells. Has good tires 235/75R15. Also has a set of aluminum wheels to go
with it (steel wheels on the truck).

And to go with it (maybe worth more than the truck) is a 460/C6. So I am
told, the 460 was rebuilt and after about 5000 miles the vehicle was
wrecked. The engine was never put back into anything and my friend bought
it. It now lives in the bed of the above mentioned truck. I am sure it would
need a little work prior to starting, but other than that I don't know...

Anyway, any idea what he should ask for this pile? FYI, he only wants to
sell everything together. Time to clean house, he says.

Let me know if you have any idea what it is worth. And if you are interested
it is located in central Illinios (about 45 minutes west south/west of
Springfield, IL).

Thanks.
______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 03:21:35 -0800
From: wicowboy gateway.net>
Subject: Re: How much is it worth?

PitStop Performance wrote:
>
> Hello List,
>
> I have a friend who is selling his old Ford truck and parts. The truck is a
> '77 F150. It had a 6/3-speed and now has a 302/C4. He only ran the 302 for a
> short period of time before unhooking everything and getting it ready to
> pull... I don't know if the 302 runs or not. I think not... 302 is still in
> the truck just sitting there. The body is OK. It had a really cheap/cheezy
> paint and body job done a few years back. Rust shows over the rear wheel
> wells. Has good tires 235/75R15. Also has a set of aluminum wheels to go
> with it (steel wheels on the truck).
>
> And to go with it (maybe worth more than the truck) is a 460/C6. So I am
> told, the 460 was rebuilt and after about 5000 miles the vehicle was
> wrecked. The engine was never put back into anything and my friend bought
> it. It now lives in the bed of the above mentioned truck. I am sure it would
> need a little work prior to starting, but other than that I don't know...
>
> Anyway, any idea what he should ask for this pile? FYI, he only wants to
> sell everything together. Time to clean house, he says.
>
> Let me know if you have any idea what it is worth. And if you are interested
> it is located in central Illinios (about 45 minutes west south/west of
> Springfield

Is it 4wd?

------------------------------

From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: Re: 73 F-100 2WD manuals
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 05:57:24 -0800 (PST)

Darrel wrote:
> Ive got an original 73 owners manual, and even the dealer booklet for 73, I
> found them at a swap meet when I was building my 73, but now I got a 74....
> If your interested, lemme know. got a lot of cool info in there.

Thanks for the offer, but my friend has the original owners manual for
his truck. I myself am looking for a '78 or '79 Vol 1 Chassis manual
if anyone has one they don't need.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:21:45 -0600
From: Jon Beller ericsson.com>
Subject: First Timer --- Holley 4bbl

I've been reading the digest for about 6 months now, while waiting to
bring home my late granddad's '76 F150 390. After doing some work
already, exhaust man gasket and valve cover gaskets, I noticed a few
things hanging off the carb (Holley 4 bbl, stock I believe). One of
them looks like the heat tube, however, there seems to be no place for
it to attach. Also I noticed that I have two different headers on the
engine... Was there a place for the heat tube to attach to the original
header or do I need to scrape away some more grease before I find it
some where else?

JB

------------------------------

From: draco

pacifier.com
Subject: Re: Steering shaft comment
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 06:27:51 -0800 (PST)

I am not an engineer, but I do play one at work. I think there is
at least some flexing between the frame and body. Not that much,
but probably more than you would think.

In any case, even if the flex was very small, there is nothing that
rigidly ties the body to the frame. Even your brake lines have
loops in them. :) When you use a steering shaft with no slip joint,
it becomes the only rigid connection. You are not going to break
the shaft because of this, but you will be putting stresses on the
steering box and column that they are not designed for. Over time
it will show up as excessive wear.

For the small amount of flex involved I think a rag joint serves
the same purpose as a slip joint.

Just my opinion.

Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
--
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

------------------------------

From: pdesanto

Cinergy.com
Subject: Re: Ticking F-E ?
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:46:33 -0500

From: schu

7x.com asks-
FE guys, I just installed a new cam, springs, and lifters in my truck, but
now I
am getting a slight ticking noise.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
================================================
Schu, a couple more things to check. First, what kind of shape were the
rocker arms and shafts in? A little wear here goes a long way, and a high
mileage motor could have a lot of slop. Also, make sure the special "necked
down" hold down bolt for the shaft assembly is in the right hole. (on BOTH
sides) Putting the wrong bolt in the oil supply hole will lead to lube
failure and excessive wear.
Good luck, Phil

------------------------------

From: pdesanto

Cinergy.com
Subject: Re: More on Ticking F-E ?
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 11:52:10 -0500

schu

7x.com asks-
FE guys, I just installed a new cam, springs, and lifters in my truck, but
now I
am getting a slight ticking noise.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
================================================
Schu, a couple more things to check>>>>>>>almost forgot....sometimes a bad
fuel pump will mimic the sound of a bad lifter. Since it runs at cam speed
it's in sync with a valvetrain sound. Might want to check that too. Phil

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:49:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Intake manifold for 460
From: Jeff Simmons juno.com>

When I used to take my 65' to the drag strip, I used the original cast
iron 4bbl. And my truck would run fairly consist ant 14.67. Then went out
and bought a Edelbrock torque 460
and my time slowed to 14.90s no matter what I tried I could not figure
out the problem.
so I put the original back and my times went back to 14.67. Now I have
the same engine in my 71' . I ported and polished the exhaust ports, Now
I have a Weiand Stealth
with a 750 Holley, And run used circle track slicks. Now I run 13.90s and
get about 14 mpg. highway.
I hope this give some help.
Jeff in KC
On Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:48:08 -0800 "Pat" aisl.bc.ca> writes:
> Howdy Folks,
> Thought that I'd check my beloved list to see whether one of the
> folks
> had a good single carb intake manifold for a 460 that they could be
> talked
> into selling for a tremendous price. Something along the Edelbrock
> 460
> Performer line or better.
> Patsplace
> 77 F250 4X4
> 78 F150 W/Overloads
> 72 Ranger parts truck
> 79 F250 4X4 (Dream Truck Under Construction)
> 78 F250 2WD Lariat Donor for the DT.
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>

________________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 09:58:47 -0900
From: "Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com>
Subject: Re: More on Ticking F-E ?

Thanks for the reply....

pdesanto

Cinergy.com wrote:

> Schu, a couple more things to check>>>>>>>almost forgot....sometimes a bad
> fuel pump will mimic the sound of a bad lifter. Since it runs at cam speed
> it's in sync with a valvetrain sound. Might want to check that too. Phil

That is a great idea I didn't think of that. What is an easy way to
check it. I looked at it when installing the pump and it wasn't visibly
bad.

>
> Schu, a couple more things to check. First, what kind of shape were the
> rocker arms and shafts in? A little wear here goes a long way, and a high
> mileage motor could have a lot of slop. Also, make sure the special "necked
> down" hold down bolt for the shaft assembly is in the right hole. (on BOTH
> sides) Putting the wrong bolt in the oil supply hole will lead to lube
> failure and excessive wear.
>

Yea, I checked the necked down bolts, and I also looked at my rocker
arms, they look fine.

I pulled the manifold to look at the lifters to make sure that the cam
broke in correctly (it did), and after re-setting the valve train, it
only ticks a little on startup, then goes away.... I wonder if this
information would lead to something else I should look at?

thanks again
schu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 10:05:22 -0900
From: "Matthew Schumacher" 7x.com>
Subject: Re: First Timer --- Holley 4bbl

Jon,

If the heat tube is a small little pipe about the size of a small straw,
then that is the stock choke stove. It goes from the choke on the carb
to the exhaust manifold on the right side. It doesn't attach to
anything it just sits down there sucking up heat to move the choke. If
you send me the list number for that carb you have, printed right on the
front of the carb horn, I can tell you if it was stock or not. My truck
was a stock 76 390 when I bought it, so I can compare it to my carb.

schu

Jon Beller wrote:
>
> I've been reading the digest for about 6 months now, while waiting to
> bring home my late granddad's '76 F150 390. After doing some work
> already, exhaust man gasket and valve cover gaskets, I noticed a few
> things hanging off the carb (Holley 4 bbl, stock I believe). One of
> them looks like the heat tube, however, there seems to be no place for
> it to attach. Also I noticed that I have two different headers on the
> engine... Was there a place for the heat tube to attach to the original
> header or do I need to scrape away some more grease before I find it
> some where else?
>
> JB
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar

ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 16:47:21 -0500
From: Tony Marino raex.com>
Subject: Re: Steering shaft comment

I happen to agree with everything Mark just said:

In all the trucks I've worked on doing body lifts, fixing those universals,
etc- all the slip-shafts (or double-D shafts) were rusted solid- but they
also had a rag joint. I'm talking both 2x4's and 4x4's. When I did
steering work to them, I would always break the shafts loose, take them
apart, and then never-seize the snot out of the shafts. After driving them
for a few weeks, you could see about 1/16 inch movement in ALL of the
shafts, and on my '78 4x4 that I twist and beat the heck out of, you can
see 1/4 inch movement in the shaft.

I for one believe, yeah, you can get away with just a rag joint and a solid
shaft, after all, most of them were rusted solid anyway, but I personally
wouldn't go with a hard-mount system, there HAS to be some flex there,
especially the more you twist and turn your frame and body.

Tony Marino
redneck

raex.com

At 06:27 AM 2/18/00 -0800, you wrote:
>I am not an engineer, but I do play one at work. I think there is
>at least some flexing between the frame and body. Not that much,
>but probably more than you would think.
>
>In any case, even if the flex was very small, there is nothing that
>rigidly ties the body to the frame. Even your brake lines have
>loops in them. :) When you use a steering shaft with no slip joint,
>it becomes the only rigid connection. You are not going to break
>the shaft because of this, but you will be putting stresses on the
>steering box and column that they are not designed for. Over time
>it will show up as excessive wear.
>
>For the small amount of flex involved I think a rag joint serves
>the same purpose as a slip joint.
>
>Just my opinion.
>
>Mark in Southwest Washington
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
>--
>'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4

------------------------------

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