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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 61-79-list); Wed, 09 Feb 2000 11:30:32 -0500 (EST) Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 11:30:32 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 61-79-list digest users Reply-to: 61-79-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list Digest V2000 #1 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1961-1979 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 61-79-list Digest Tue, 08 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 001 In This Issue: Re: timing gears Intro Re: Intro Re: 61-79-list Digest V1 #2003 2 wheel power steering box's vibration Re: Hood hinges Re: timing gears Re: 2 wheel power steering box's Re: BRAKES! Residual or check valve for disk bra Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Re: Door panels Re: vibration Re: Intro Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Vin decoders?? Re: Intro ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 20:58:36 -0800 From: Jason Derra Subject: Re: timing gears Just buy a timing chain and gearset for a 72 and older 429/460 at any parts store. Or get a multi keyway, adjustable gear set and degree your cam. Jason DWeaver232 aol.com wrote: > Before the list went down there was an auction for an early (68?) lower > timing gear for a 429. The seller stated that gear would increase the power > of the later 460. He stated that the cam timing was retarded in the later > engines through the crank to pass emissions. He also stated that replacing > this gear in a later engine may cause it to fail an E-test. I have heard this > before about other ford engines. > > Questions: Is this true and anyone have experience with this and are these > early gear still available someplace? > > Thanks > Terry Weaver > 78 F350 SC > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 22:57:28 -0600 From: Mike Schwall Subject: Intro I joined the the list a couple days ago and decided to introduce myself. My name is Mike Schwall. I;ve been on thos list a while back, as well as other lists run my Ken Payne (BTW, good work Ken, looks good). I'm 23 and from San Antonio, TX and recently moved from there to Oklahoma for a job. Actually two jobs. I had an offer for a job with Veridian Engineering at Tinker AFB in Oklahoma City as an electronics technician . I would be working on robots that inspect jet engine parts using Eddy Currents. I also had an offer from AT&T to be a sweep technician working with fiber optics in Salt Lake City, UT. Both are excellent, but I settled with the Veridian job. I am college educated with two degrees and working for a third - a BS in Computer Engineering at OU. Will jump into that this Fall (new job is paying for it, yeahh). The two degrees I have are both Associates degrees, one in communications equipment (fiber optics, satellite and microwave communications and computer networks, as well as radio transmitters), the other as computer/electronics repair technician. I've been around engines since I was a kid learning from my dad who was a mechanic and did some racing as a teenager back in the day. I've built up only Ford engines since I came from a Ford family. Built several oval track and dirt track engines and one drag engine. Nothing major, just friends having some fun. No big time race team or anything like that. Won races though. Never raced "officially" myself, never had the money for it I am also a webmaster of a Ford web site, www.fordfan.org (soon to be www.fordfan.com). It's going through a major growth spurt, soon to be unveiled. Hmm, just about all I can think of at the moment. Some of you will probably remember me (hey, stop crying, it's not that bad.. ;-) I look forward to learning more and sharing what I know to help others. Got the money, got the tools, even got a shop to work in, just need a project motor... Always wanted to start that 351x project... Mike ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 00:31:58 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: Intro At 10:57 PM 2/8/00 -0600, you wrote: >I joined the the list a couple days ago and decided to introduce myself. My name is Mike Schwall. I;ve been on thos list a while back, as well as other lists run my Ken Payne (BTW, good work Ken, looks good). Whoah.... I remember you! Its been a while! >I am also a webmaster of a Ford web site, www.fordfan.org (soon to be www.fordfan.com). It's going through a major growth spurt, soon to be unveiled. Didn't know that was your site. FTE is still growing in leaps and bounds. We had a 10% jump in traffic between Jan 1 and Jan 30th. Since the new server came on line, a 30% jump in daily traffic (I guess the site has gotten faster during peak!). Considering that the chat and search on the site are temporarily down, that's quite an improvement! Welcome back and I hope fordfan.com is properous! Ken Payne ------------------------------ From: A61fordtruck aol.com Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 00:31:11 EST Subject: Re: 61-79-list Digest V1 #2003 In a message dated 02/07/2000 9:41:21 PM EST, listar ford-trucks.com writes: << IRS ADVICE I am looking to install an IRS under my truck. Has anyone here done anything like this? I am thinking of using an IRS from a T-bird and maybe using the stock truck springs. Any advice on widths and such? >> yea, there have been times i'd like to haved "installed" the IRS under my truck as well!! Greg ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 21:31:26 -0800 From: John Lord Subject: 2 wheel power steering box's I was able to sucsessfully use the most common 2 wheel drive ford steering box to convert my old 4x4 and i knew it leaked. I just wanted to be sure i could do it before i spent any money. Does anyone have a line on rebuild kits? It seems at this point all i can find is the sector shaft seal and the pump seal, but my leak is on the input shaft and i thought it would be best to rebuild it. I have rebuild box's before and this is the first time i have had a hard time finding a complete kit, even from my local Ford dealer. ------------------------------ From: "Phil & Debi" Subject: vibration Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 00:50:11 -0500 I have a vibration in my 79 F250. It is in the motor when at a fast idle to about 2500 rpm. above or below that it disappears. It is a 400, I replaced the plugs and wires, ran a compression test, They all read between 125 to 135, is that a good reading? couldnt find any specs for it anywhere. I tore the front of the engine apart and have some excessive play in the timing chain, could that possibly be the cause of my vibration? anything else I should check while I have it apart? Phil Beattie 66 F100 70 F100 79 F250 4x4 91 F150 4x4 www.geocities.com/imstobu ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 22:16:49 -0800 From: Don Grossman Subject: Re: Hood hinges Mike Pacheco wrote: > > I have a question I'm hoping the list can answer. Have a friend that is > having his vehicle painted, well they removed the hood and hinges which is > fine. Then they removed the springs from the hinges and can't seem to put > them back on. The three stooges had 3 guys wrestling with it... can you > help. > > Mike in Burien What they are going to have to do first is put the hinges back on the truck so that they aren't gona go anywhere while they monkey around with the springs. The easiest way that I have seen is to get a piece of pipe that will just fit inside the eye of the spring. What you do is hook one end of the spring to the hinge, put the pipe through the other end and onto the stud on the hinge. Ya make sure the pipe you get will fit over the stud. I think I used a piece of thin wall fence pipe. Then you just pry the spring on. Think of it as a brake spring only bigger. Laters Don Grossman ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 04:09:19 -0500 From: "G.T. Herpich" Subject: Re: timing gears Don't bid on it. If you change it you will need a set anyway and it can be purchased anywhere. In '73 Ford retarded the cam 8 (I believe) degrees to make the engine emissions legal. This had a big effect on performance and I've heard you can gain 35 hp and a load of low end torque by going to the earlier straight up gear. I can tell you that you'll notice the power big time because I did this to my '73 Merc wagon. You will also see a big improvement in gas mileage. You can tell if you got the correct gear by the timing mark. The one you want has the mark directly above the key way, the retarded gear has it a few degrees off. George DWeaver232 aol.com wrote: > > Before the list went down there was an auction for an early (68?) lower > timing gear for a 429. The seller stated that gear would increase the power > of the later 460. He stated that the cam timing was retarded in the later > engines through the crank to pass emissions. He also stated that replacing > this gear in a later engine may cause it to fail an E-test. I have heard this > before about other ford engines. > > Questions: Is this true and anyone have experience with this and are these > early gear still available someplace? > > Thanks > Terry Weaver > 78 F350 SC > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: 2 wheel power steering box's Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 06:01:15 -0500 I got one for the bronco from NAPA. No one sells the hard parts but the gaskets and seals were in a kit for $10. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >I was able to sucsessfully use the most common 2 wheel drive ford >steering box to convert my old 4x4 and i knew it leaked. I just wanted >to be sure i could do it before i spent any money. > >Does anyone have a line on rebuild kits? ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: BRAKES! Residual or check valve for disk bra Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 06:45:34 -0500 George, the proportioning valve "portion" of the stock proportioning valve is for the rear brake "proportioning" and is simply controlled by spring pressure like the willwood unit but there is a valve the limits back flow of fluid in the front in that same unit. I don't know it's official name but without it you will have mush for brakes. I spent a year changing every part in my system including bypassing the proportioning valve (ran all solid lines with no valves) and adding a willwood unit in the rear with the stock valve bypassed to no avail. The instant I installed a new factory proportioning valve made for disk brakes I had brakes, solid, firm, hard brakes for the first time since I owned it. I disassembled the old one and there is a valve there which goes only one way easily and very hard the other. Call it any name you like but without that valve your disk brakes will not work right......not on a 78 truck anyway. One way to test this is to attempt to reverse pressure bleed the front calipers. If you don't pull the pin on the proportioning valve you can't get any fluid past it. I was able to do this on my old one but not the new one. All the evidence in my experience with this problem indicates to me that this valve was to blame for all my woes. Newer vehicles have some other way of handling it since they don't use a separate proportioning valve and some day I will understand that too but for now I can say without question that that valve has to be on a 78 truck for the brakes to work correctly :-) When I say correctly I mean so that when you push the pedal, anywhere, anytime, as often as you like......it moves about 1" or so and comes up hard like a brick and the truck stops.......without pumping them.....consistantly, every time....... I still have an air leak so they only stay hard for a few days at this point but I know I can at least get them that way for a day or two with this valve where before they "never" got there for even a few seconds, ever. There really is a method to this madness :-) -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >The only thing holding the calipers "locked" in place is the fact that >there is no return spring. The purpose of the prop valve is to >limit the >pressure to the rear drum brakes because they, being self energizing, ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 07:16:24 -0500 The spring is for the rear proportioning valve part of the assy. The rubber is it's own spring and simply deforms to allow fluid past in one direction but deforms with much more effort in the other direction. The pin is attached to a plastic part in the diaphram and simply deforms the rubber to allow fluid past. Seems like there was a small spring on the pin side to keep the rubber against the seat, can't remember now for sure but the basic design uses deformation of the rubber as the means to open it, not the spring as near as I could tell. The spring basically controlled the pin mechanism to allow for an additional, "mechanical" means to open it for bleeding or so it appeared to me. Since I don't have access to any engineering data on this I can only guess at the design parameters but it appears that this valve may be designed to not allow any back flow except, as you said, what gets past in the process of closing the valve which may be all that's needed to give it the right clearances on the pads and rotors etc.. We're all just guessing here so suffice it to say that the valve does prevent "excessive" back flow to maintain a certain proximity of the pads to the rotors at all times. How it does it I can't say but I can say without any reservation that it does and has to be there for proper operation of disk brakes. -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >In the diagram there is a spring there isn't there ? I >thought that's what >the windings were there ?? It would have to be spring loaded >otherwise it >would not necessarily return after slamming the brakes on ... makes me ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: Door panels Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 07:28:34 -0500 Every man, woman and child on this list should run down to Sears and get the proper tool for panel removal. After 25 years of struggling and damaging panels with all manner of flat tools I finally went and did it and I am ONE HAPPY CAMPER!!!! It's cheap and works like a charm and also works on such things as the rubber fender protectors you have to remove to work on shocks, wire looms stuck in the fender wells and AOD tranny looms etc.. Get the one with the bent end and with two sizes of slots in the end, you won't regret it. Like a hammer or flat screw driver I have used this tool a million times since I got it and not always for the designed purpose, it is one handy, dandy tool to have :-) -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >> How do I remove the door panels to put new speakers >> in there, or are there other suggestions for good speaker >> locations? > >Take the armrest/pull the door closed handle part and the >window crank off, and pry the panel off carefully with a flat >screwdriver. ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Re: vibration Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 07:39:00 -0500 I wish I knew the answer to that one myself. Mine is vibrating so that the faster you run it, especially in the lower gears the scarier it gets. Feels like main bearings but my pressure is still good....or a flywheel balance thing or tranny input bearings or ........ I'm just going to wait till something breaks and fix it...... -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- >I have a vibration in my 79 F250. It is in the motor when at a >fast idle to >about 2500 rpm. above or below that it disappears. It is a >400 ------------------------------ From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell) Subject: Re: Intro Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 07:47:04 -0600 Mike, Glad to have you on the list. I am also glad to see that someone else from (living in) Oklahoma is on the list. I am however in Tulsa, Oklahoma. I currently own a 65 F100 460 C6 combination. I am also in the process of trying to obtain a 66 F100 shortwide. Once again welcome to the list. Paul 65 F100 460 C6 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 08:37:16 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote: > We're all just guessing here so > suffice it to say that the valve does prevent "excessive" back flow to > maintain a certain proximity of the pads to the rotors at all times. TSM sells these residual valves in 2 and 10 PSI ranges. One of these days I have to plumb one into my rear disks and gut the prop part of main valve to get full pressure to the rear. OX ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:34:28 -0600 > TSM sells these residual valves in 2 and 10 PSI ranges. One of these > days I have to plumb one into my rear disks and gut the prop part of > main valve to get full pressure to the rear. > > OX Hey Ox, I'll trade you a stock distribution block for a prop. valve ;) Actually if you want full pressure back there, just plumb around the prop. valve, mine's got nothing at all for resid. pressure in it ... 'course that could also be the problem with mine too I guess ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 09:49:27 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff William S. Hart wrote: > > > TSM sells these residual valves in 2 and 10 PSI ranges. One of these > > days I have to plumb one into my rear disks and gut the prop part of > > main valve to get full pressure to the rear. > > > > OX > > Hey Ox, I'll trade you a stock distribution block Whats that?? > for a prop. valve ;) Well, mine's bad, it has no residual presssure for front brakes, like gary's was. What I did was extend rod coming out of booster. Makes the brake pedal go to floor the first couple times and brake light come on after truck sits for a couple days. Also eats up pads good (especially rears) as they are always dragging. BUT, after the inital couple pumps, the brakes are right there and I mean NO travel, hard as a rock and work awsome. Very important when your trying to stop 800 lbs worth of tires coming down a steep hill or during panick stops 60 MPH. Biggest drawback is that once in a while they heat up real good and lock up so I can't get over 30 MPH with it floored, oops!!!. Driving through a nice deep puddle usually takes care of that. I highly recommend not doing this on a street rig :-) > Actually if you want full pressure back there, just plumb around the prop. I gutted it on my capri when I did rear disk, worked good. > valve, mine's got nothing at all for resid. pressure in it ... For front you mean, how do you know? > 'course that could also be the problem with mine too I guess ... Prob, I've never driven a 70's Ford truck that had a good hard pedal. OX ------------------------------ From: "William S. Hart" Subject: Re: BRAKES! Proportioning valve stuff Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 09:35:16 -0600 > > valve, mine's got nothing at all for resid. pressure in it ... > > For front you mean, how do you know? > I mean anywhere, I've got drums at all 4 corners now ... > > 'course that could also be the problem with mine too I guess ... > > Prob, I've never driven a 70's Ford truck that had a good hard pedal. > well I guess I've got a heck of a challenge in front of me then :) Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish ------------------------------ From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: Vin decoders?? Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:40:48 -0500 Ok, this has been said but I didn't keep track because I wasn't interested but now I am!! I tried Mike Masse's decoder for my 93 Aerostar and it didn't work....is there a free web site that I can quickly decode a vin for this? -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 10:32:46 -0600 From: Mike Schwall Subject: Re: Intro At 07:47 AM 2/9/2000 -0600, you wrote: >Mike, >Glad to have you on the list. I am also glad to see that someone else from >(living in) Oklahoma is on the list. I am however in Tulsa, Oklahoma. I >currently own a 65 F100 460 C6 combination. I am also in the process of >trying to obtain a 66 F100 shortwide. Once again welcome to the list..... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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