From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #467
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61-79-list-digest Monday, December 20 1999 Volume 03 : Number 467



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater
FTE 61-79 - AXOD transmissions
RE: FTE 61-79 - Boring
FTE 61-79 - Sick C-6
FTE 61-79 - Hot air tube
FTE 61-79 - One more time
Re: FTE 61-79 - For sale
Re: FTE 61-79 - 73-79 Bed Found!!!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Choke heater tube
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Plug wires...
Re: FTE 61-79 - AXOD transmissions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6
FTE 61-79 - Re: Choke Heater Tube
Re: FTE 61-79 - One more time
FTE 61-79 - Gas and P.cleaner
FTE 61-79 - PROBLEM: Leaking thermostat housing grrr
FTE 61-79 - Returning member looking for rust free parts.....
FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6 rebuilding questions.....
Re: FTE 61-79 - sick C6
Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6 rebuilding questions.....
Re: FTE 61-79 - PROBLEM: Leaking thermostat housing grrr
FTE 61-79 - Re: Merry Christmas
FTE 61-79 - squealing heater
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Choke Heater Tube
Re: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater
Re: FTE 61-79 - PROBLEM: Leaking thermostat housing grrr
Re: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater
Re: FTE 61-79 - PROBLEM: Leaking thermostat housing grrr
Re: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater
FTE 61-79 - 71 Bronco no dash ilghts and no running lights
Re: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater/ burnt switch

=======================================================================

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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 06:23:30 -0500
From: "G.T. Herpich"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater

If you don't have factory a/c it's not too big of a job. Mine started squealing
in
august and by the last of the hot weather (oct in FL) it was blowing fuses.
I sure hate the idea of discharging that R12 system to replace it.
George

gene gardner wrote:

> I bet I'm not the only one with this little problem: my heater blower fan
> squeals for 5-15 seconds when I first turn it on. OK so it has a dry
> bearing, but how can I lubricate it? Sure would be a nice Christmas present
> if someone were to tell me I didn't have to remove the unit ...
> Texican Teacher, 70 F100 w 300 I-6
> Happy Holidays to All!
> ______________________________________________________
> >
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 09:24:50 -0500
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - AXOD transmissions

> one in what's installed right now. Now, if only Ive got the courage to
attack
> the AXOD on my 91 Taurus (though it looks like a bad gearset in it).
> Lucky me!
>

The AXOD that Ford installed in the Taurus and Sable has a bad reputation
for failure ... have a look around on the web regarding this.
I happened to be a passenger in a Taurus wagon when its transmission
decided to decisively stop transmissing and spit its fluid all over I-88 ...
got it towed back and put in the garage, and I searched the web (as well
as some repair manuals) to try to find out how to change the transmission
in one of these things. The search resulted in discovering a lot of stories
of unhappy Taurus owners with transmission failure.
You might want to consider a different transmission to go back in
(maybe a manual shift, even !).



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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 09:02:49 -0600
From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Boring

>The one thing which is true about a hone is that it will >follow the
>Average" center line of the cylinder as it has worn, not as it >was
>originally bored so the result can be slight out of line >centers to the
>crank. In most cases this will not be enough to make any >difference to us
>but to high rpm racers this it taken into account and bores >are always
trued
>first to the crank with a boring bar and then the deck is also >trued to
the
>crank to eliminate any possible side loading on the >components. For us
this
>is not really a serious consideration but if you really want >to do it
right
>then these steps should be taken too :-) (depending on >equipment used the
>deck may be trued first) :-)

For high rpm use it would be best to have the deck trued then have it honed
on a Sunnen CK-10 with a heavy torque plate. They take off all the taper,
and out of round as the bore really sees it with the nain caps crushing a
set of bearings and the simulation of a head torqued down.

What usually happens though is when they chuck it in the machine you find
that it sees more taper and out of round than a mere mortal sees with the
best instuments, most usually resulting a need to bore to the next oversize.

For something you dont expect long life (200K) and quiet operation out of,
you can do it at home. I've done it and had them go 100K with nothing but a
little more piston slap, and a little blow-by after 30K.

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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 09:14:37 -0600
From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sick C-6

>>I am new to the mailing list. And of course I have a qeustion. I have a 65
F100 with a 460 backed by a C6. Ever since I installed the C6 I have had
problems. I don't know alot about tranny's so maybe someone could help. when
I put the truck in reverse it jerks and jumps, when I am in drive it acts
alright unless I have any weight in the truck then it acts like it won't
pull. Is there any fix short of pulling the tranny and installing a new
one.

The early C-6's used Type F. I tried ATF in the '69 one I had in my '67,
and it didn't like it at all. I had to change it. Type F smells different
and is darker than ATF. I've heard it uses more whale oil than ATF too
which isnt put in any trans fluid anymore. I don't know what modern Type F
is like. There's a product that saved the A4LD in my daughter's '93 Mustang
convertable called Lube Guard. You just add it on top of new fluid and it
takes the place of whale oil. Worked like a charm.

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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 09:21:22 -0600
From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Hot air tube

> Broke that little tube assembly that sits on the passenger
> side of the carb
> on the intake manifold; exchanges heat from the exhaust to
> the choke. A
>
> How hot do you suppose this gets?

You can get a new one of these in a the Help section at AutoZone.

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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 09:05:26 -0700
From: Harry Vermillion
Subject: FTE 61-79 - One more time

I've been reading this list since October, and I'm enjoying it, but
I haven't seen any of my postings since the first question about a
better tranny than my C4. So I'll try it once more with all the
questions that have been piling up.

I've got a '70 Econoline window van (it USED to be a Chateau Club
Wagon, but we've all seen better days) that according to the VIN is
something between an E150 and an E250. My son calls it "The Beast" but
it's still "The Van" to me and I talk nive to it. There's a 2BBL
Rochester on a 302, with a C4 and a 3:50 rear end. Stock. No power
brakes, no power steering. I'm on the third engine and third
transmission, the odometer says 47K but my son and I know it's on it's
third time around. A keeper, so long as the rust fringe is in vogue.
While my son had it for hauling his band around, he thought he'd trade
it for something nicer, but I still maintain that he can't buy anything
that will do what this will for 10 times as much.

I just changed the front drums, cylinders, shoes, springs, cables
and the rest. If I'm doing 45 mph or more and I begin to brake, it
"shudders" until it gets below 40 or so. We've bled the system and
we've been backing for adjustment and at slower speeds everything seems
fine. I've tried this while coasting in neutral as well as under power
and it does the same thing. Asking around, I get return questions about
the 'metering' valve or the 'proportionalizer'- the "pressure
differential valve". I was under the impression that all this valve
does is turn on the brake warning light when one of the systems is too
low on fluid. Does it actually have anything to do with applying
proportional pressure to the front or back brakes depending on whether
you're moving forward or backwards, or is this something from another
time?

I'm on my second sterring box, and it's getting pretty loose (ALOT
of play). Definitely an E ticket in a crosswind. The tie rod ends are
still tight. I've been tightening the sector shaft adjuster screw on
the side of the box (and the lock nut, too), but there's still alot of
play that we can see while turning the wheel: +/- 15 to 20 degrees wheel
turn before any movement to the pitman arm. Is there any kind of
rebuild kit for the box, or is it back to the boneyard for a (hopefully)
tighter assembly? With that in mind, not having a Holland manual or
trusting anybody in the local boneyards, is this a pretty standard
steering box, or is it specific to the Econoline?

Tommy Huckeby let me know about the '80's AOD to get more mileage
outta this thing, but I'm wondering if there's a higher rear end ratio
to go to as well? I know I'd lose acceleration, but I'm wondering about
mileage and power once I get to highway speeds with a load over long
distance.

I've got a double-core radiator that doesn't do well in this thinner
air. I'd like a triple core, but I'm advised that a shroud will do
better. Did Ford put a shroud on these things in 1970? Know where I
can get one?

Have you guys seen this one:

"The Kinetic Energy Formula and the Kinetic Octane/Cetane Charge
will save you thousands of dollars...

* You get more horsepower and
* Better gas mileage.

You also get this FREE report ...

* EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT
AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR CENTERS BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK

...

You won't find these products on any retail shelves.
List Price $86.28 - Now on Sale for just $39.95 + S/H
You save over $46.00 with this offer.
Order by December 24th, 1999 and you get these Special Reports...

FREE Report #1 THERE'S A SUCKER BORN EVERY MINUTE
FREE Report #2 HOW TO GET 500,000 MILES OR MORE FROM YOUR CAR OR TRUCK
FREE Report #3 EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR
CENTERS BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK

These reports are sold normally for $40 each. You get them FREE when
you
order the Ultimate Car-Care package by December 24th."

Oh yeah! ; )

Happy Christmas.
- --
Harry E. Vermillion
E-mail: north40 verinet.com


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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 10:52:48 -0800
From: wicowboy
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - For sale

Mark Mcknight wrote:
>
> 73-77 Ford F-250 4x4
> For whole or parts
> Needs a fuel pump... not sure of the engine, definitly big block, other than
> the fuel pump, it runs good
> body is really rough... tranny+tcase and diffs are good condition. Would
> make a good bush truck or parts
> $400 or best offer
> In Elmvale Ontario Canada

What part of Ontario is Elmvale in? I'm in WI so if Elmvale is in the
lower half i may be interested....
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 11:04:45 -0800
From: wicowboy
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 73-79 Bed Found!!!

FORDTRKNUT aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey all!!! I was at a junkyard in Allentown PA this morning. I got a tilt
> colunm out of a 1979 F150 two wheel drive pickup. The colunm from a 2wd will
> absolutely fit a 4wd truck (or 78/79 Bronco). All that is required is to
> remove the double sided splined adapter from the bottom. The bed on the back
> (single square gas door...1977-1/2 to 1979, 8 Foot) was near mint. There was
> no rust on the wheel arches, or corners. I asked about the price and they
> said $165.00 minus the tailgate & tailights. I would have bought it but I
> already have an extra 8 foot rust free bed. If you live near Allentown, PA
> get in touch with Harry's U Pull It Of ALLENTOWN. It is Harrys U Pull Its
> "Satellite Location". They are at 1510 East Jonathane Street in Allentown,
> PA 18103. There phone number is 1-610-433-9901. If there are any
> questions....JUST ASK!!! Wayne Grabley
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Did you happen to look at the underside of the bed?
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Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 21:26:55 -0800
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Choke heater tube

It's an easy fix & I wouldn't rely on solder. I've manufactured those
choke tubes for years out of brake line. I typically will drill out the
manifold to the correct size (1/4" I believe), bend the tube
appropriately and re-install. I've never cut open a manifold, but I
believe that there is no exhaust gas flowing from the manifold to the
carburetor; just hot air. The white (formerly asbestos) insulation is
available from Thunderbird parts sources. Contact me offlist if you
want some references.

- --
Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net

> Broke that little tube assembly that sits on the passenger
> side of the carb
> on the intake manifold; exchanges heat from the exhaust to
> the choke. A
>
> How hot do you suppose this gets?
>
> Late last night (new motor fever) I soldered this together

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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 13:14:35 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Plug wires...

In a message dated 12/18/99 2:09:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tneasham 3-cities.com writes:


the list. >>
Welcome back, need more people from this area.
Burt Hill Kennewick, WA 1972 F250 4x4 460
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 13:55:53 EST
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - AXOD transmissions

In a message dated 12/19/99 9:27:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
serian flashmail.com writes:


The AXOD that Ford installed in the Taurus and Sable has a bad reputation
for failure ... have a look around on the web regarding this.
I happened to be a passenger in a Taurus wagon when its transmission
decided to decisively stop transmissing and spit its fluid all over I-88 ...
got it towed back and put in the garage, and I searched the web (as well
as some repair manuals) to try to find out how to change the transmission
in one of these things. The search resulted in discovering a lot of stories
of unhappy Taurus owners with transmission failure.
You might want to consider a different transmission to go back in
(maybe a manual shift, even !).

>>
Well, Ive been there and done all of that (web searches etc). From what Ive
read, that with he proper fixes, this can be a decent tranny. Lord know the
rest of the car has been good to me. We'll see when I get the time to tear
into it. After the holidays. Till then Ill just have to suffer through
driving my '79 Bronco grinning all the way to the gas pumps.
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 13:57:03 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6

In a message dated 12/18/99 9:22:32 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:


good
rebuild section but the one thing it did not cover was the check ball
locations in the control valve module (forgot what we call the dang
thing....old age again :-)) Haven't looked in my service manual yet for
this info, might be there, don't know.
>>
ATSG stands for Automatic Transmission Service Group. A national
professional group, that among other things provides service rebuild books
with all of the latest and recommended mods and tips for that transmission.
I have rebuilt many trannys over the years, but about 4 years ago I made it a
practice to purchase one of these books each time I go to rebuild one. They
are much more detailed than the factory manuals, and they are kept updated.
Only $12.00, best spent part of the total cost, one for each model and type,
most professional rebuild shops use them or the CD form. Most parts stores
can order them for you, then if you do dump all the balls and springs on the
floor, these books clearly show where they belong. The updates and mods are
fantastic, through lessons learned they have you get the latest hardware
parts that may have been factory modified to prevent future failures, and
they have even had me drilling holes in the valve body separation plate to
enhance operation and prevent failure. Good cheap source of vital
information.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 14:19:46 -0500
From: "Warren Anderson"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Choke Heater Tube

Jeff

I had the same problem when I replaced the carb. The tubes just snapped off
because of the rust. I unbolted the housing that the tubes go into the
intake and found out that choke just sucks in air from the top of the carb
goes through the metal tubing which just forms a coil in the exhaust passage
so that when the coil heats up the air passing through the coil is also
heated. The exhaust gases do not pass through the tubing. I fixed the tubing
by drilling out the plate were the tubes were located but be careful not to
drill out to much or you will get exhaust gas in the tubes. After drilling I
just wedge some metal tubing in the holes and then just use rubber vacuum
hosing to connect the tubing. The rubber does not melt and I have been using
the rubber tubes for a few months. If you have any questions just email me.

Warren
> Howdy:
>
> Here's one for the M-block fans - dunno if all Fords have one.
>
> Broke that little tube assembly that sits on the passenger side of the
carb
> on the intake manifold; exchanges heat from the exhaust to the choke. A
> 1/4" tube drops from the air cleaner to the intake, coils inside the hot
> intake (where the exhaust recircs in the m-blocks I think), then bolts
onto
> the choke.
>
> How hot do you suppose this gets?
>
> Late last night (new motor fever) I soldered this together using copper
> tubing to shim the areas I mashed... But now I wonder if that was such a
> grand idea.
>
> Now back to the garage to align the clutch and hunt down my hoist chain.
>
> Jeff
> 79 Bronco
> 351M (it was time) -> 400


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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 14:39:13 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - One more time

Harry Vermillion wrote:
Asking around, I get return questions about
the 'metering' valve or the 'proportionalizer'- the "pressure
differential valve". I was under the impression that all this valve
does is turn on the brake warning light when one of the systems is too
low on fluid. Does it actually have anything to do with applying
proportional pressure to the front or back brakes depending on whether
you're moving forward or backwards, or is this something from another
time?

The metering valve is essentially a delay for the front brakes... What it
does is allows pressure to build in the rear brakes so that they will fully
engage.. If there were no metering valve the rear brakes would rarely
engage... The delay is only a split second. The proportioning valve is
exactly that, it directs fluid to the front and rear circuits proportional
to their need...
Hope that helps...
Brad


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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 14:47:38 -0500
From: "Gary L. Perry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gas and P.cleaner

Gas heaters are fast, yet require lots of gas for bigger ones. They will
freeze-up small tanks and quit running. I use a 65 gal. tank with my
open-flame portable. It still freezes, but don't stop. I'ld call Gas Co.
and have them help install, usually doesn't cost if you're buying gas
from them.
On the Mineral Spirits: My unit uses 20 gallons of this stuff, and you
can just buy gallons in Hdwe. store for $2.oo or less.One Warning:
My hands now have a rash which I think was from using this solvent
and now can't seem to get rid of it. Been to Doc's and such.
I hate gloves to work in, but may be best. I've seen Citrus based
cleaners you mix with water to make solvent but I'm sure they
won't have the power we guys like. Plus, it's expensive. Harbor-
Freight has that offered too.Just some thoughts.....
"G"

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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 14:01:06 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: FTE 61-79 - PROBLEM: Leaking thermostat housing grrr

Hi I have a problem that I need some advice and answers to. Last night
one of my heater hoses blew on my 74 F250 4X4 with a 360. So I went to
change it this morning and thought I might as well put in a new higher
temp thermostat (problem starts here). Well all is fine EXCEPT FOR THE
LEAKING THERMOSTAT HOUSING. I have the gasket in there but i cant seem
to stop the leak I have removed and replace it about 4 timeS today with
no luck. Tried siliconing the sh*t out of it but still no luck. What
am i doing wrong???

Thanks in advance
Kirk Baillie
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 14:26:59 -0800
From: wicowboy
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Returning member looking for rust free parts.....

Hello All,
I was a member of this list around a year or two ago I believe. I have
been off because my life has been shook up quite a bit but i'm settled
and back on.

I have just completing a complete redo of one of my trucks and am a the
point where I am in need of a body. The frame and drivetrain are
completely assembled and i started the motor for the first time
yesterday! Its just waiting for a body now. I have the entire month of
January off and I want to travel somewhere southernly to get a body from
a junkyard or maybe buy a whole truck and tow it home. I want to travel
so i don't mind driving a ways, I'm wondering if someone maybe knows of
a yard that they would be willing to inform me of that has a few fords
in it that i could scavenge through and maybe make one mint body (minus
paint and interior). I kind of want to have a game plan as too where
i'm going before i just head out. If anyone can help, please e-mail me,
I'd really appreciate it.

p.s. The frame is a '76 F-250 but I am open to possibly adapting other
body's to fit my frame for originality

WICowboy
'76 F-250 4x4, 514ci (Ford SVO), C-6, Dana 60 f/r, 5.13 gears, 40"
Boggers........bodyless
'79 F-250 4x2, 460, C-6
'77 F-250 4x2, 360, 4-speed
'79 F-100 4x2, 302, 4-speed

p.s. I think I have some unfinished buisnees with someone from Colorado
from when I used to be on this list, if your still on here, e-mail me
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 17:30:26 EST
From: Lukes67 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6 rebuilding questions.....

Does anyone out there have any experience in rebuilding a 240 inline 6?
The motor has 337,000 miles on it. The lifters are worn and I'm sure it needs
a new cam. Has anyone tried the Offenhouser intake, 390 cfm carb, and a
hedder combination? It says that this combo will increase the hp by 115.
Also, what automatic tranny will bolt up if any? Are there any performance
catalogs out for this motor? Your feedback is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Luke

67 F100 shortbed (in need of some TLC)

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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 17:37:31 EST
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - sick C6

In a message dated 12/18/1999 9:21:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
fishinbrad mindspring.com writes:


type F..

Brad >>

I also have a 76 with a C-6 that runs with type F . I pulled out the dip
stick and right there on it says use type F .
Rollie .
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 18:41:17 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 240 inline 6 rebuilding questions.....

In a message dated 12/19/99 5:33:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, Lukes67 aol.com
writes:

> Does anyone out there have any experience in rebuilding a 240 inline 6?

I just completed a stock rebuild on the 240 in my 66 F-250. I have some
pictures up on my site. Go to the My Trucks link off the main page then the
1966 link from there. I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.
Clifford seems to be the place for I6 performance goodies.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 18:44:52 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - PROBLEM: Leaking thermostat housing grrr

In a message dated 12/19/99 3:03:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kbaillie home.com writes:

> Well all is fine EXCEPT FOR THE
> LEAKING THERMOSTAT HOUSING. I have the gasket in there but i cant seem
> to stop the leak I have removed and replace it about 4 timeS today with
> no luck. Tried siliconing the sh*t out of it but still no luck. What
> am i doing wrong???

Check the aluminum housing with a straight edge. Also the thermostat must
fit in the little recess area. Its important to make sure it's correctly in
there before you crank the bolts down. If not it will wither break the
housing or fail to seal when you torque the bolts down. Finally make sure
you use a quality gasket sealer on the correct gasket. These steps should
cure it for you.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 18:57:34 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas
From our Family to Yours!

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.casema.net/~pico/kerst/kerst98/index.html

(FTE Content -- Keys will be in the 66 in case Santa wants to take it for a
spin)

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 17:27:27 PST
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater

OK, I'm getting the idea you can't lube a bearing that's sealed so let's
change direction: how much longer does my blower motor have to live? It's
been squealing since I bought the truck 3-4 years ago but I never used the
heater much back in Texas. Just that I'm living in WISCONSIN now and would
like to know if I'll at least get through the winter! Thanks.
Texican Teacher, 70 F100 w 300 I-6
______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 17:57:58 -0800
From: nukegm ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Choke Heater Tube

- --- Original Message ---
"Warren Anderson" Wrote on
Sun, 19 Dec 1999 14:19:46 -0500
------------------
Jeff

I had the same problem when I replaced the carb. The tubes just
snapped off
because of the rust.

Stu writes:

I ordered a new set of tubing which included the asbestos
(I guess it is asbestos) covering from a Virginia Classic
Mustangs for my truck when mine broke a few years ago. I had
to modify it a little but over all, it worked very well
and looks absolutley stock.

Stu
Nuke GM!

- -----
Sent using MailStart.com ( http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://MailStart.Com/welcome.html )
The FREE way to access your mailbox via any web browser, anywhere!

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 21:08:09 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater

In a message dated 12/19/99 8:32:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
genegow hotmail.com writes:

> OK, I'm getting the idea you can't lube a bearing that's sealed so let's
> change direction: how much longer does my blower motor have to live? It's
> been squealing since I bought the truck 3-4 years ago

It's probably good to go for a while longer. The motor is not hard to
change assuming you have non-AC. If you are interested in a used one let me
know. I am sure I have at least one good motor somewhere which I'd sell.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 21:44:38 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - PROBLEM: Leaking thermostat housing grrr

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Kirk Baillie
To:
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 3:01 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - PROBLEM: Leaking thermostat housing grrr


> Hi I have a problem that I need some advice and answers to. Last night
> one of my heater hoses blew on my 74 F250 4X4 with a 360. So I went to
> change it this morning and thought I might as well put in a new higher
> temp thermostat (problem starts here). Well all is fine EXCEPT FOR THE
> LEAKING THERMOSTAT HOUSING. I have the gasket in there but i cant seem
> to stop the leak I have removed and replace it about 4 timeS today with
> no luck. Tried siliconing the sh*t out of it but still no luck. What
> am i doing wrong???
>
Make sure that the thermostat is down in the little groove, either in the
housing or the intake manifold. If it gets up out of that groove it will
leak... Make sure your housing doesn't have a leak...

Brad


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 19:37:26 PST
From: "White Wolf"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater

Chances are: NO.. thats just the law of chance.. If you need it to last it
wont, but if it was summer you'd be fine...


>OK, I'm getting the idea you can't lube a bearing that's sealed so let's
>change direction: how much longer does my blower motor have to live? It's
>been squealing since I bought the truck 3-4 years ago but I never used the
>heater much back in Texas. Just that I'm living in WISCONSIN now and would
>like to know if I'll at least get through the winter! Thanks.
>Texican Teacher, 70 F100 w 300 I-6

______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 21:56:06 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - PROBLEM: Leaking thermostat housing grrr

Well I found out the problem right after i read your reply. Yes the
housing was cracked. I must have happened the first time i installed
the thermostat, because that was the time it slipped out of position.
Oh well off to the wreckers tomorrow for a new housing. And hopefully
the book will be closed on this subject.

Thanks to all those that replied
Kirk Baillie


TBeeee aol.com wrote:
Its important to make sure it's correctly in
> there before you crank the bolts down. If not it will wither break the
> housing or fail to seal when you torque the bolts down.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 00:35:28 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - squealing heater

In a message dated 12/19/99 8:32:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
genegow hotmail.com writes:


change direction: how much longer does my blower motor have to live? It's
been squealing since I bought the truck 3-4 years ago but I never used the
heater much back in Texas. Just that I'm living in WISCONSIN now and would
like to know if I'll at least get through the winter! Thanks.
Texican Teacher, 70 F100 w 300 I-6
___ >>
It may get you through, but if it should freeze up or just become harder to
rotate it may take out your fan switch due to the higher current before it
gets the fuse. I replaced the one in my 72 little over a year ago, somewhere
around $20. Easy to get to, once removed you will need an allen wrench to
remove and reinstall the fan blades.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA F-250 4x4 460
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 23:15:07 -0800
From: "Kory A. Kneeland"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 71 Bronco no dash ilghts and no running lights

Hey everyone,

I just got done with my front end, and she's already crying for more
attention. No, not my lady, my iron horse. I went to turn on my
headlights, and no dash lights. I played with the switch some, got them to
come back on, then they went off again. Then my headlights went out. I
pulled over, turned the engine off, tried it again, and now the headlights
only work. I also noticed that I don't have any running lights, or brake
lights.

My Chilton's (I know, I don't like it either, but it's a start when I'm
stuck) says that my headlight switch controls my horn, parking lights,
license plate light, and brake lights with a 15 amp CB fuse. First, I don't
ever remember seeing fuses when I put my new headlight switch in just 6
months ago; and second, what about my dash lights not working. I checked
all of the fuses in my tiny little fuse box, and none were blown. I checked....

---

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