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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #464
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61-79-list-digest Friday, December 17 1999 Volume 03 : Number 464



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering
RE: FTE 61-79 - headers for 400
RE: FTE 61-79 - weird sights and sounds....:-(
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 250 van parts for 460 swap
FTE 61-79 - plug wires
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ox runs rings around John
Re: FTE 61-79 - weird sights
FTE 61-79 - Sick C6
FTE 61-79 - popping carb
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 250 van parts for 460 swap
RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs
RE: FTE 61-79 - plug wires
RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs
RE: FTE 61-79 - plug wires
RE: FTE 61-79 - Ox runs rings around John
RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs
RE: FTE 61-79 - plug wires
FTE 61-79 - Re: FE "Shorties"/motor mounts
RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs
RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs
Re: FTE 61-79 - Hubs
RE: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6
FTE 61-79 - weird sights
FTE 61-79 - Ox runs rings around John
RE: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6
FTE 61-79 - wet ignitions
FTE 61-79 - weird sights
FTE 61-79 - plug wires
FTE 61-79 - Old sayings
Re: FTE 61-79 - plug wires
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ox runs rings around John
FTE 61-79 - '75 F150 Rear axle swap
FTE 61-79 - bronco power steering conversion
FTE 61-79 - Van rear
RE: FTE 61-79 - wet ignitions
Re: FTE 61-79 - plug wires
RE: FTE 61-79 - weird sights
FTE 61-79 - Re: F-350 Hubs
FTE 61-79 - Re: Poppong carb
Re: FTE 61-79 - Boring
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F150 Clutch Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - plug wires
Re: FTE 61-79 - weird sights
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6
Re: FTE 61-79 - plug wires
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Poppong carb
FTE 61-79 - ENVY'S FIRST "OWWIE"

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 03:11:09 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - power steering

I have time now to go into detail....

I used the 2 W drive box Hoses and bits from a 75 F150. It is on the inside of
the frame, I made 2 spacers to hold it in place with the 2 lower bolt holes on
the box. The box rests against the frame where it is turned up to accept the
old no power box.

(drilling 2 holes in the frame is required as well as grinding a small amount
form the bottom of the frame to allow for room for the bottom of the box, i
set it up so the bottom of the box is even with the bottem of the fram to give
me more room for the sector shaft.)

I used an 8" long piece of angle iron inside the frame to reinforce the area it
covers the width of the box area and fits inside the frame from top to bottom
where the angle is used.

I removed the pitman arm and rotated it, it is keyed in such a way it will fit
in 4 positions. After rotating it you will find that it is in the perfect
position.
I used a torch and straightened the pitman arm (removed the factory bends) the
pitman arm fits just fine between the spring and frame..

A person needs to make a new bit of linkage from the pitman arm to the wheel, I
used the original tie rods and adjuster from the centerlink to the drivers side
wheel from the 2 wheel drive truck, the longer section had to be shortened and
treaded (I have a machine shop at my disposal) one of the these tie rods has a
slight downwards bend that seems to help when the wheel travels away from the
frame.

In regards to the steering linkage, the slip joint that connects the columb to
the box can be taken apart, remove the pin (i used a press) and the tube over
the tip. shorten the shaft as much as nessessary drill a new hole (must be a
tight fit) put the tube on and push the pin back in.

This took me a day with the help of one other to hold the box as i fit
everything. It is a very tight fit but CAN BE DONE EASILY AND CHEAPLY.

Now the down side, 2WD box is 4 1/4 turns from stop to stop, your steering is 4
turns stop to stop so it works great, but...... the non power and newer power
boxes are 6 1/2 turns meaning that if you ever loose power it will be harder to
turn the wheel than it is with factory non power.
On a hard compression of the leaf spring the spring might hit the sector shaft,
and i found that on a hard right turn the tie rod on the pitman arm can bump
into the spring. i am not concerend as i am giving my truck a 3 inch spring
lift soon, the other way to solve it is to use a longer pitman arm, i am
looking for one.

The good side is.... It is cheap, Easy, and i can turn my truck with 1 or 2
fingers.

I can try to give those that email me directly better details or advice if they
email me directly.

OldTrux aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/16/99 4:15:11 PM Central Standard Time,
> thelord home.com writes:
>
> > I just did the conversion on my 74 4x4 Crew Cab and i used an 75 F150 2
> > Wheel drive box. it's ratio alllows for 4 1/4 turns and works well
>
> Does that box mount outside the frame rail? Which way does the pitman arm
> point?
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:18:02 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - headers for 400

Thanks Bill :-) You said in a few words what I was trying to get across in
all my long winded tirades :-) You have my undying admiration as an orator
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> In many cases the extra power wont be needed anyway. But, a
> set of tuned
> and application matched quality headers will always improve exhaust
> efficiency. It may be that a given combination may not need
> it. Unless you
> tune the engine to take advantage of it you might actually
> lose power.
>
> To take advantage of better breathing you need more fuel and
> air going in.
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:32:17 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - weird sights and sounds....:-(

Mine started making noise again too. When I put the new Warn premium hubs
in the location of the snap ring grooves would not allow intallation of the
snap rings so I left them off with a certain amount of trepidation since
that's all that holds the inner seals to the spindle back to protect the
needle bearings and the rest of the innards as well. I don't see many deep
puddles or do water crossings but we get a lot of rain.

The sound I have now sounds like a heater blower motor with dry bearings.
You know how they sound when turned off but going down the road and the air
going through the fan turns the motor?? Trouble is the noise doesn't change
when I turn the blower on :-( Only other thing in that area of the truck is
the right front wheel........:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Yikes! Probably had the lug nuts put on and didn't retorque
> them after 100
> miles or whatever ... really makes me want to go home and
> double check those
> wheelbearings that seemed to be makin some noise last night
> in my truck...
> though its a Ranger so I should be safe right ? :)
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:40:31 EST
From: A4x4junky aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 250 van parts for 460 swap

In a message dated 12/17/99 3:11:45 AM Eastern Standard Time, ETRMK aol.com
writes:


think i can pick it up for about 100 bucks. I was wondering if i can use any
of the following parts for my planned 400 to 460 swap this next spring:
Motor
mounts, powersteering brackets,alternator brackets, exhaust manifolds,oil
pan?

Also will the Dana 60 rear on the van bolt up directly onto my 78 F-250 4x4?

Eric Norris >>

Because of the difference in size of the blocks you will have to use almost
all of the 460 accessories...so the power steering brackets, alternator
brackets, exhaust manifolds, and oil pan can all be used. The carrier in a
D60 is offset. The vans use different length axles... Some say they are
interchangeable...I think it is a matter of whether or not your driveline can
handle the angle of not being straight. I have never tried that.

Anthony
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 06:49:36 -0600
From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - plug wires

>Is it good that my spark plug wires were zip-tied
>together? I was changing the header gaskets yesterday
>and I noticed that they were laying all over each
>other. Shoud I buy some of those wire looms? Could
>these wires touching be hurting my performance?

>Thanks

If your engine has the 15426378 firing order this could be deadly for your
engine, I would reccommend dealing with this ASAP. Number 7 and 8 fire in
sequence. If these wires are paralell and within an inch of each other
number 8 will fire too soon causing damage if allowed to continue for very
long.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 06:57:29 -0600
From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ox runs rings around John

> Are you telling me my father made that one up?? No one else ever heard
> of this :-)
>

>Nope....your Pop is "spot-on"....

Better than telling him he's " dead-nuts," some folks might take offense,
you know..:-)

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:01:09 -0600
From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - weird sights

>Strange eh,
>I had a Toyota Landcruiser a few years ago and its left front >wheel came
>loose on a number of occasions.
>Dave
>Australia
>68 F350

It's from you guys driving on the wrong side of the road :-)

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:18:09 -0600
From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6

I am new to the mailing list. And of course I have a qeustion. I have a 65
F100 with a 460 backed by a C6. Ever since I installed the C6 I have had
problems. I don't know alot about tranny's so maybe someone could help. when
I put the truck in reverse it jerks and jumps, when I am in drive it acts
alright unless I have any weight in the truck then it acts like it won't
pull. Is there any fix short of pulling the tranny and installing a new one.

Thanks,
Paul
Sick C6 in my 65 F100.

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:14:07 -0600
From: ballingr bootheel.net
Subject: FTE 61-79 - popping carb

My '71 Bronco w/302 does this too. For me it's just a timing issue. I've
got a '78s electronic ignition in my Bronco, so maybe there's some
similarity in out problems. I just advanced the timing and the problem went
mostly away. The reason I say mostly is because my engine still just plain
rattles my distributor's nut loose every once in a while and I have to
re-time it.

Good luck,

>>>>>

You could have a bad valvespring too. They can do this also.

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:56:22 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 250 van parts for 460 swap

ETRMK aol.com wrote:
>
> I found a 78 Econoline 250 van w/460 that supposedly has a broken crank. I
> think i can pick it up for about 100 bucks. I was wondering if i can use any
> of the following parts for my planned 400 to 460 swap this next spring: Motor
> mounts,

Doubtfull, will most likely need L & L motor mounts.

> powersteering brackets,alternator brackets, exhaust manifolds,oil
> pan?

If you mean can you use all that stuff from a 400, no none of it
works, except possibly alt setup.

> Also will the Dana 60 rear on the van bolt up directly onto my 78 F-250 4x4?
>

It will bolt in, but as Anthony said, the carrier is offset. I know
Fords 70's front diff's are quite a bit offset from the TC flange and
they don't cause severe vibration. I think it will work since you have
quite a long driveshaft, I might question it on something like a Bronco.

OX



> Spokane WA
> 78 F-250 4x4 400 C6
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:13:35 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs

> Mine started making noise again too. When I put the new Warn premium hubs
> in the location of the snap ring grooves would not allow
> intallation of the
> snap rings so I left them off with a certain amount of trepidation since
> that's all that holds the inner seals to the spindle back to protect the
> needle bearings and the rest of the innards as well. I don't see
> many deep
> puddles or do water crossings but we get a lot of rain.
>

*shaking of head* I can't get mine off right now as my cheap snap ring
pliers bent ! But anyway did you try pushing on the ujoint? Whenever I had
this problem I could just push from behind on that ujoint and the snapring
would "snap" right on ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:23:14 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - plug wires

Modern heli wound wires in good condition should not do this I would think
but older ones or old new design wires with dried out insulation are
certainly a threat. I've got wires on both the 400 and 460 all tied
together with no problems but I use the 9mm Motor craft wires exclusively on
my engines. So far they have been very good in that respect. Virtually all
new front wheel drive cars have a rubber cap over the dizzy cap which pulls
all the wires together very tightly with no ill effects and virtually all of
their looms run right up against the head where they could ground if fire
was leaking out. The looms also place these wires very close together so if
induction were a threat this would affect these as well I should think?

I agree though that at high rpm in a high compression engine under load it
only takes one good bang to shove a rod through the top of the piston so if
your wires are the least bit suspect, separate them or don't rev it :-)

I plan to get some looms ASAP but can't find them for the 9mm size :-( My
preferance would be to keep them separated just to be safe even with good
wires. Virtually every firing order has two cylinders firing next to each
other AFAIK. Has to do with 8 cylinders I think so there will be two on the
same bank on any V-8 that fire sequentially. Don't have the manual in front
of me right now but that's how I remember it. "If".... this is true the
firing order will not make one worse than another since any two firing only
1/4 turn out of time will cause serious consequenses.

I've never had this happen that I know of so I have a question.....can you
tell when this happens under low load conditions or if it is only
intermittant? Seems to me this would make itself evident by the way the
engine performs? I've had cross fires due to misplaced wires but that isn't
the same thing. In that case you have two firing at the wrong time and it
is very obvious but in this case one fires again on the power stroke so only
one is affected on the compression stroke. That actually amounts to one
firing 90 degrees before it's proper time which is quite significant.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >Is it good that my spark plug wires were zip-tied
> >together? I was changing the header gaskets yesterday
> >and I noticed that they were laying all over each
> >other. Shoud I buy some of those wire looms? Could
> >these wires touching be hurting my performance?
>
> If your engine has the 15426378 firing order this could be
> deadly for your
> engine, I would reccommend dealing with this ASAP. Number 7
> and 8 fire in
> sequence. If these wires are paralell and within an inch of
> each other
> number 8 will fire too soon causing damage if allowed to
> continue for very
> long.
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:38:57 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs

I had to put a pry bar on it to get the snap rings on. They were close but
I felt it would be too tight and cause trouble so left them off. The seals
would have been fully compressed all the time and there would have been
considerable pressure on the warn hub bearings. I felt it was the lesser of
the evils :-)

There are two groove locations on the Dana 44 and mine had the inboard ones
and the warns like the outboard ones :-( If I ever realize my dream and get
a lathe this problem will go away :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> *shaking of head* I can't get mine off right now as my cheap
> snap ring
> pliers bent ! But anyway did you try pushing on the ujoint?
> Whenever I had
> this problem I could just push from behind on that ujoint and
> the snapring
> would "snap" right on ...
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:38:39 -0500
From: Marvin Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - plug wires

Yup; Been there done that.
meyer strat.net

If your engine has the 15426378 firing order this could be deadly for your
engine, I would reccommend dealing with this ASAP. Number 7 and 8 fire in
sequence. If these wires are paralell and within an inch of each other
number 8 will fire too soon causing damage if allowed to continue for very
long.


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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:47:01 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Ox runs rings around John

I knew what it meant but I rarely use it because it "sounds" like vulgarity
whether it actually has vulgar roots or not :-) "Spot on" or "Right on"
works just as well for me :-) My son in law grew up in northern Michagan
and constantly uses the term "Numb Nuts" when refering to the dog or other
dumb individuals or even his friends. Someone please make this "non
confrontational" or innocent :-) A person's head is often refered to as a
"Nut" but we only have one of those so there are other possibilities......
I suppose if we said "Numb Nut" it could refer to one's head :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > Huh?? The dead nuts is what threw me. Does that mean non existant?
> >
>
> "Dead nuts" means right on (no variance), :-)
>
> OX
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 08:48:08 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs

> There are two groove locations on the Dana 44 and mine had the
> inboard ones
> and the warns like the outboard ones :-( If I ever realize my
> dream and get
> a lathe this problem will go away :-)
>

You sure you don't have the stuff already? My part time conversion uses
both the internally expanding one on the hub of the drum and the contracting
one on the end of the axle ... when I took apart the 76 w/Disc brakes, it
was a full time unit, but it still had both the ring around the outside
machined and the axle had the groove for the snap ring as well, though it
only had the snap ring, not the outer one ... but the groove was there, I
noticed it right off and tried to pry a dealy out but there wasn't one
there!

So you're saying most of these hubs only use one of the two methods/!?!?!?!
so I dont' need to put them both back in when I put my wheelbearings back
together tonight !?!??!!? ( I probably will anyway now that I think about
it, its worked for the last 6 years that way (at least), I don't wanna
change it a month before I change the axle out and have it fail on me!)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:48:29 -0500
From: Marvin Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - plug wires

On my 1970 330HD B-600 motorhome, when idling the motor "seemed" to want to
stop for one split second every revolution. So much so that the engine
would quickly shudder then go away. Hard to describe but it's like a
nervous twitch, only for one split second though. A friend of mine who has
3X's the experience on these older motors, quickly pointed it out to me and
suggested just what you said. Get new plug wires. My originals were dried
up and 25yrs old.
meyer strat.net

I've never had this happen that I know of so I have a question.....can you
tell when this happens under low load conditions or if it is only
intermittant? Seems to me this would make itself evident by the way the
engine performs?

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 06:57:44 -0800 (PST)
From: draco pacifier.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: FE "Shorties"/motor mounts

CJ wrote:
> I haven't seen any posts from him
> in a while, so I hope he is still with us!

> The website was www.pacifier.com....

I'm still here. Just been really busy taking care of some final Y2K
things at work. Also, in digest mode I'm a little slow replying.


Mark in Southwest Washington
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pacifier.com/~draco/Truck.html
- --
'74 F-100 Ranger XLT 4X4
in digest mode

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:13:47 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs

I'm talking about the axle shaft snap ring or "Retaining" ring not the one
that retains the internal hub parts and secures the outer cover etc.. The
short axle stub comes with two different locations of the groove but I have
no clue as to why. I assumed it was drum vs disk or something like that,
not sure but I have several copies of both. Unfortunately the correct ones
for this are badly rusted so I opted not to use them. I have a tool to cut
retaining ring spot faces on my axles to replace the "C" clips, which fall
out and cause axle failures, with retaining rings but haven't got to all of
them yet. Next time I set up to do that I might try to make up a set with
the correct groove location :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > There are two groove locations on the Dana 44 and mine had the
> > inboard ones
> > and the warns like the outboard ones :-( If I ever realize my
> > dream and get
> > a lathe this problem will go away :-)
> >
>
> You sure you don't have the stuff already? My part time
> conversion uses
> both the internally expanding one on the hub of the drum and
> the contracting
> one on the end of the axle
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:19:18 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Hubs

> I'm talking about the axle shaft snap ring or "Retaining" ring not the one
> that retains the internal hub parts and secures the outer cover etc.. The
> short axle stub comes with two different locations of the groove
> but I have
> no clue as to why. I assumed it was drum vs disk or something like that,

I see ... I don't remember seeing 2 grooves on either of my axles ... the 74
or the 76 (one's drum the other's disc) ... what about full time vs. part
time? That could be a problem if that's the case, 'cause obviously I want
to put hubs on my 76, and not the conversion hubs either, just a stock hub
... uh oh ... hmmm... measurements anyone ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:24:35 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Hubs

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>
> I'm talking about the axle shaft snap ring or "Retaining" ring not the one
> that retains the internal hub parts and secures the outer cover etc.. The
> short axle stub comes with two different locations of the groove but I have
> no clue as to why. I assumed it was drum vs disk or something like that,
> not sure but I have several copies of both. Unfortunately the correct ones
> for this are badly rusted so I opted not to use them. I have a tool to cut
> retaining ring spot faces on my axles to replace the "C" clips, which fall
> out and cause axle failures, with retaining rings but haven't got to all of
> them yet. Next time I set up to do that I might try to make up a set with
> the correct groove location :-)
>

I just used the edge of a thin file to make a new groove. Didn't take
that long at all. I did it with hub removed and axle shaft still on
vehicle. It was pretty easy!!!

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:07:53 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6

Ok, you did make sure all the parts were mated up properly when you slid it
into place right? You didn't get it from a junk yard where it sat out in
the weather right? It is full of oil and the cooler lines are not kinked
right?

Does it slip in all gears or just Drive? Ford Autos are very sensitive to
oil level so if it's not completely up to the fill line or at least showing
on the stick it may not shift. If there is any water in it it won't shift
either and if you got any dirt, and I do mean ANY dirt, in there while
installing it you may have damaged the governor which controls both reverse
and low down shift and 1-2 upshift to some extent.

If it's a yard tranny it could just be worn out too. Rebuild is fairly easy
and cost is only $150 or so but you have to keep it squeaky clean in the
process or don't even attempt it.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I put the truck in reverse it jerks and jumps, when I am in
> drive it acts
> alright unless I have any weight in the truck then it acts
> like it won't
> pull. Is there any fix short of pulling the tranny and
> installing a new one.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 10:50:22 -0600
From: prozell oaielectronics.com (OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6

Gary,
Thanks for the response. The tranny was rebuilt by a local shop that
everyone swears is the best in the area. The tranny was installed less than
a year ago. Everything was mated properly when installed. Is there anywhere
to get diagrams of the tranny. Would it be advisable to try and flush the
transmision and re-install fluid?

Paul Rozell
Sick C6 in my 65 F100
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.)
To:
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 10:07 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6


> Ok, you did make sure all the parts were mated up properly when you slid
it
> into place right? You didn't get it from a junk yard where it sat out in
> the weather right? It is full of oil and the cooler lines are not kinked
> right?
>
> Does it slip in all gears or just Drive? Ford Autos are very sensitive to
> oil level so if it's not completely up to the fill line or at least
showing
> on the stick it may not shift. If there is any water in it it won't shift
> either and if you got any dirt, and I do mean ANY dirt, in there while
> installing it you may have damaged the governor which controls both
reverse
> and low down shift and 1-2 upshift to some extent.
>
> If it's a yard tranny it could just be worn out too. Rebuild is fairly
easy
> and cost is only $150 or so but you have to keep it squeaky clean in the
> process or don't even attempt it.
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
> > I put the truck in reverse it jerks and jumps, when I am in
> > drive it acts
> > alright unless I have any weight in the truck then it acts
> > like it won't
> > pull. Is there any fix short of pulling the tranny and
> > installing a new one.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:01:58 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - weird sights

>>o.k., here's a strange coincidence. in the last week i saw two
ford explorer 4x4 trucks and one explorer SUV 4x4 dead on the
side of the road, both pick ups i saw TODAY, one this morning
and the other on the way back home after work. what did they
all have in common? all three lost the front left wheel! quite
a sad sight seeing them with the brake disc dug into the
pavement, ouch! what gives?

If memory serves me correctly, some of the FoMoCo 4x4s were recalled because
of excessive vibration in the power train causing wheels to fall off. I
thought it was Expeditions and Navigators, though. One of the Ford sights
(FTE maybe) should have an area wher you can look up recall notices.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:07:00 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ox runs rings around John

>>"Dead nuts" means right on (no variance), :-)
>>Are you telling me my father made that one up?? No one else ever heard
of this :-)
OX

Thanks, Ox. I've never heard that expression before. I am assuming the
difference is our different cultural background and nothing else. The first
time someone wanted to know where the spigot was, I didn't know what they
were looking for. I'd always heard it called a faucet.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:07:10 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6

It never hurts to change fluid, I'm just not convinced it's the first thing
to try. When I built my first one I got dirt in the governor and it
absolutely would not go into first. Took it out and cleaned it and polished
the piston and it worked a little better but not right so installed a new
governor and it worked correctly right out of the box.

It is very easy to mess up stuff in an auto, especially if you are doing it
for a living and have to get it done to make money. One reason I learned to
rebuild all my own stuff is that if I screw it up it hasn't cost me anything
and I'm real easy to talk to so I can get myself to fix it where getting the
other guy to fix it is a real pain :-)

Try taking the pan off and cleaing it out and look for signs of damage such
as debris in the pan or scorched parts or oil etc.. Replace the screen and
give it a shot. If that doesn't work I would guess it needs some attention.
I can't visualize an oil change fixing such serious problems as you've
described but a broken front pump seal (cast iron rings) or plugged filter
screen might or serious damage to the clutches etc.. This sounds like
either a plug or a leak to me.

When you drop the pan leave several bolts in place and loosen them carefully
after breaking the seal and use a wide pan to catch the oil in. Try to drop
one corner at a time to let it out "progressively" :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Gary,
> Thanks for the response. The tranny was rebuilt by a local shop that
> everyone swears is the best in the area. The tranny was
> installed less than
> a year ago. Everything was mated properly when installed. Is
> there anywhere
> to get diagrams of the tranny. Would it be advisable to try
> and flush the
> transmision and re-install fluid?
>
> Paul Rozell
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:25:27 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - wet ignitions

If you do have moisture in your distributor cap or on your wires preventing
your engine from running, WD40 sprayed liberally over the wires and inside
the cap will let your engine fire up. Don't do this to a show engine for
obvious reasons. If this cures your problem for the moment, you need to
consider new plug wires, rotor, and distributor cap. Never replace the cap
or rotor without replacing the other. They aren't that expensive and this
little habit will keep you fro getting stranded. Plus you have functioning
spares to carry just in case.

My Towncar has a rubber boot around the distributor cap. If I ever find one
in the junk yard, I'm snagging it for Henry. Don't know how much good it
does, but it looks cool.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!


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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:15:20 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - weird sights

>>> Yikes! Probably had the lug nuts put on and didn't retorque them after 100
> miles or whatever ... really makes me want to go home and double check those
> wheelbearings that seemed to be makin some noise last night in my truck...
> though its a Ranger so I should be safe right ? :)

They never put this kind of information in the owner's manual, do they?
As if everybody who buys a vehicle is supposed to have considerable
mechanical knowledge.

Speaking of loose lug nuts. If anyone out there wants to get their FTE nut a
great Christmas gift, get them a big chrome four way lug wrench. Those
little OEM hub cap poppers will not take off a lug nut that has been put on
by a wild man with an impact wrench. On the other side of the coin, they
won't put them on tight enough to stay on either. Always check your lug nuts
when you let someone else put a wheel on your vehicle. BTDT.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:28:12 -0600
From: jlagrone ford-trucks.com (John LaGrone)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - plug wires

From: "John LaGrone"
To: "-FordTruckDigest"
Mime-version: 1.0
X-Priority: 3
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

>>Is it good that my spark plug wires were zip-tied
together? I was changing the header gaskets yesterday
and I noticed that they were laying all over each
other. Shoud I buy some of those wire looms? Could
these wires touching be hurting my performance?

Rich,

No it's not good and yes it could hurt performance, especially as the wires
age. (I said could, not will.) Electricity flows around a wire, not through
it. If there is somewhere that you can observe the engine running while it
is very dark, you will be able to see the flash down the wire when a plug
fires. This is one way to spot cross fires. Looms are always a good idea.
They will also help prevent burned insulation from heat and holes worn by
rubbing against something. Looms have to be kept in good working order. I
have seen some that have lost their rubber or plastic insulation. Pop the
plug wire in and it slices right to the conductor. Instant miss. Anyone for
a V7?

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:40:11 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Old sayings

Ox writes: >> Are you telling me my father made that one up?? No one else
ever heard
of this :-)

Naw!!! Heard it since I was a mere child.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:41:38 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - plug wires

Actually zip ties can make very good wire looms if used correctly. Take 1
zip tie and fasten it LOOSELY around all 4 wires on one bank. The key is
case you missed it is LOOSELY! Then take 3 more zip ties (color is optional
but the yellow ones look really cool with blue wires) and fasten 1 in
between each wire around the first zip tie to act as a separator. Don't
cinch em down too tight until you have taken up some of the slack on the
first one, then tighten each of the separating ones. Obviously this works
for 3 and 2 wires also. Looks very trick and works quite well.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: John LaGrone
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 9:28 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - plug wires


> From: "John LaGrone"
> To: "-FordTruckDigest"
>
> >>Is it good that my spark plug wires were zip-tied
> together? I was changing the header gaskets yesterday
> and I noticed that they were laying all over each
> other. Shoud I buy some of those wire looms? Could
> these wires touching be hurting my performance?
>
> Rich,
>
> No it's not good and yes it could hurt performance, especially as the
wires
> age. (I said could, not will.) Electricity flows around a wire, not
through
> it. If there is somewhere that you can observe the engine running while it
> is very dark, you will be able to see the flash down the wire when a plug
> fires. This is one way to spot cross fires. Looms are always a good idea.
> They will also help prevent burned insulation from heat and holes worn by
> rubbing against something. Looms have to be kept in good working order. I
> have seen some that have lost their rubber or plastic insulation. Pop the
> plug wire in and it slices right to the conductor. Instant miss. Anyone
for
> a V7?



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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:59:14 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ox runs rings around John

Here's an extract I found that may help.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ltk.hut.fi/archives/rp-ml/0385.html

SevnD2 aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/16/1999 4:46:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> luxjo thecore.com writes:
>
>
> Are you telling me my father made that one up?? No one else ever heard
> of this :-)
>
> OX >>
> He didn't make it up ! I have heard this phrase before from a fellow worker .
> Took me a minute to get the meaning also . LOL
> Rollie .
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc


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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:43:31 -0600
From: "Kelley McDaniel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '75 F150 Rear axle swap

> From: "Hogan, Tom":

> I don't see any reason why it ['77 complete axle in a '75 F150] would
not fit. Does yours
> have the rear leaf
> springs still installed? If so I would just measure the distance
between
> the axle mounting points on the springs and make sure the spring
perches on
> the new axle are the same distance apart.

Thanks for the input, Tom. Springs are off, but it would be easy enough
to compare the
distances between the spring mounts, the spring widths, for and aft
spacing, etc.



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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 11:32:26 PST
From: "H. Lee Purvis"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - bronco power steering conversion

Another place to look for EB stuff is www.wildhorses4x4.com. They carry all
the power steering setups to include a factory orignial if you want to shell
out the bucks. You can also get the complete kit (including box and pump)
for the F150 conversion or you can by it by the piece.


Lee




- -------------------------------------------------------------------
>I've got a 71 Bronco with manual steering and I've been looking at
>converting as well. A good resource I've found is James Duff. If >you
>check out his company's web page you'll drool and get educated. >He makes
>all kinds of EB gear, including power steering conversion >kits with or
>without the box.
______________________________________________________

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:51:39 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Van rear

Eric writes: >>
I found a 78 Econoline 250 van w/460 that supposedly has a broken crank. I
think i can pick it up for about 100 bucks. I was wondering if i can use
any
of the following parts for my planned 400 to 460 swap this next spring:
Motor
mounts, powersteering brackets,alternator brackets, exhaust manifolds,oil
pan?

Also will the Dana 60 rear on the van bolt up directly onto my 78 F-250
4x4?

Measure the distance form backing plate to backing plate, and spring perch
center to spring perch center on both rears. I'm led to believe that the
van is wider in both instances, and if that is correct you would have the
wheels on the F series out past the fenders by using the E series rear. I
do not know this to be fact, but like I said, I'm led to believe it is
true.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:05:50 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - wet ignitions

> My Towncar has a rubber boot around the distributor cap. If I
> ever find one
> in the junk yard, I'm snagging it for Henry. Don't know how much good it
> does, but it looks cool.
>

You'll be amazed at how much good it does, but nothing beats a well fitted
cap ... the Borg Warner stuff that the local parts store carries actually
snapped on my distributor! I hate to replace it since the fit was so nice
and tight ... also seems like I've gotten a little extra out of these
points, maybe they were getting wet and arcing before ... that would explain
a little bit ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 12:06:03 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - plug wires

Rich wrote:
>Is it good that my spark plug wires were zip-tied
>together?

Absolutely not!

>I was changing the header gaskets yesterday
>and I noticed that they were laying all over each
>other. Shoud I buy some of those wire looms?

Yes.

>Could
>these wires touching be hurting my performance?

Yes.
Crossfiring can occur if wires are to close together. Even if
the insulation is "perfect" and electricity can't arc through
it, crossfiring can still occur from inductance. Moving the
wires twice as far apart reduces the possibility of current
in one wire inducing a current in the other by a factor of four.
Space between conductors is your friend...

Somethimes crossfire problems are obvious, but other times they
can be quite subtle, nothing more than a general "lack of smoothness".
Often it's most evident at light throttle openings, when the cylinder
pressures are low, and the plug gap is easiest to jump.

If it happens regularly at high loads it can possibly do serious
engine damage.

Long ago, I used to believe that as long as the insulation was
good so that no arcing could occur, it didn't matter if the wires
touched each other. That was stupid of me. I've spent many hours
trying to diagnose subtle "miss" problems that turned out to be
wires (brand new, good quality ones) that simply were to close
together...

I highly recommend getting some decent wire looms to get those
wires seperated. If you can't find good looms, make some.
Do whatever it takes, but don't compromise your motors performance
and health with plug wires that are "tie-wrapped" together.


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:07:46 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - weird sights

> Speaking of loose lug nuts. If anyone out there wants to get
> their FTE nut a
> great Christmas gift, get them a big chrome four way lug wrench.

Hahahaha ... we had one of those ... still do but its got a nice bend in it
... if you get one of those, dont' get the ones that have "china" or
"taiwan" cast into them ... dad and I were trying to take a lug nut OFF of
my truck and twisted it axially !


> Always check
> your lug nuts
> when you let someone else put a wheel on your vehicle. BTDT.
>

AMEN! And if you have the Jackman style of rim without a torque ring,
doublecheck yourself even!

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 16:02:44 EST
From: GHOLSM aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: F-350 Hubs

I am not using any spacers, I am beginning to wonder if the Wheels that are
on it are the wrong kind they are stock but that doesn't mean anything.
Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Gholsm aol.com
1971 F-350 Dually
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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 16:11:02 EST
From: GHOLSM aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Poppong carb

I had the same problem with my truck it only happens to mine when I get on
the Expressway at speeds over 60 hot or cold weather. I have an older engine
71,360 that runs great until the popping starts. I can stop and it idles
fine but give it some juice and I've got 93 Poptane. Suggestions please.

Gholsm aol.com
1971 F-350 Dually
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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 22:12:26 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Boring

- ----- Original Message -----
From: James Oxley
To:
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Boring


> am14 daimlerchrysler.com wrote:
> >
>
> > If I only wanted to "Get by" for less than a year, I would check the
bore
> > size for consistency, and just put oversized rings on standard pistons,
if
> > the bore was only a little larger than specs allow. I'm quite sure you
can
> > still get rings in .005" oversized.
>
> Yes, I've looked at this, but I'm guessing I would have to take off
> quite a bit during honing to allow for even .005 oversize rings and, my
> pistons were not slapping, so I'd rather not introduce myself to that. I
> measured my 351m pistons and 400 pistons last night. They all seem to be
> about the same dia, so if I didn't have piston slap before, I don't
> think I will now, unless I go crazy honing. I had the 400 running
> briefly before I stole the crank,rods and pistons out of it and it had
> no slap or knocks. The rattle in my 351M turned out to be rod bearings,
> as they were a good bit undersize from spec, on the order of .006-.008.
>
Just remember that honing does nothing but exand the cylinder that you
have, if you are out of round now, honing it .005 is just going to give you
a 5 thousandths larger egg shaped cylinder...
Brad


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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 22:16:01 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F150 Clutch Question

- ----- Original Message -----
From: j arnold
To:
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 9:59 AM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F150 Clutch Question


> >> Just wondering if anyone out there can help me find what clutch
setup I
> >>need for my truck... I've got a 78 F150 4X4 with a 429 in it, mated to a
> >>Borg Warner top loader tranny (4spd w/granny gear). I need to find out
what
> >>size clutch this thing has in it, and I would like to do so before
pulling
> >>it down.... It is sad really, I bought this truck from a guy about 5
years
> >
> >Good luck,
> >Ohio Bill
> >
> >1968 Torino GT 429 4v 4 speed
> >1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> Bill,
>
> Since the 429 in the truck is an obvious 'transplant', there's a good
> chance that the transmission (and clutch) are too. Having done this same
> swap, I know from experience that there are at least a half dozen
different
> clutches that could be in there, from 10 1/2 inch to a twelve inch, 3 or
> maybe more different 11 1/2 inch clutches for sure (don't ask how I found
> this out). Sorry to tell you, the only way to find out for sure what you
> have is to tear it down and find numbers to trace.
>
> stoney
>
Thanks for everyones help, I guess that since Big Blue isn't my daily driver
anymore I can just wait to do the clutch when I put the Thunderjet heads on
it. I can't wait to install those puppies... Anyway I figured I would have
to find out the hard way, but thanks for all of the info...
Brad


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Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 22:23:00 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - plug wires

- ----- Original Message -----
From: rich may
To:
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 2:42 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - plug wires


> Is it good that my spark plug wires were zip-tied
> together? I was changing the header gaskets yesterday
> and I noticed that they were laying all over each
> other. Shoud I buy some of those wire looms? Could
> these wires touching be hurting my performance?
>
> Thanks

In a word - YES! ! ! Get some looms!


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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 17:06:32 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - weird sights

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Kiernan, Denny
To:
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - weird sights


> William S. Hart wrote:
> >
> > > all have in common? all three lost the front left wheel! quite
> > > a sad sight seeing them with the brake disc dug into the
> > > pavement, ouch! what gives?
> > >
> >
> > Yikes! Probably had the lug nuts put on and didn't retorque them after
100
> > miles or whatever ... really makes me want to go home and double check
those
> > wheelbearings that seemed to be makin some noise last night in my
truck...
> > though its a Ranger so I should be safe right ? :)
>
> They never put this kind of information in the owner's manual, do they?
> As if everybody who buys a vehicle is supposed to have considerable
> mechanical knowledge.
>
> I had a wheel fall off about a 100 miles or so after it had been put on.
> The lug nuts had all unscrewed themselves (or had been unscrewed by a
> saboteur). Of course I was warned by the noise that there was something
> wrong about seven miles earlier, but didn't investigate thoroughly
> enough. And yeah, I wound up smashing up the whole brake and rim.

Just thought I would add a funny story here... I had a friend helping me do
brakes on my 78 once, and well, he didn't tighten his side down all the way,
guess he thought I was gonna come over there with the gun and zip his side
down too... I didn't... Drove probably 50-60 miles before the left rear came
off... It was the funniest thing I have ever seen. I was coming to a stop,
and the sucker jumps off, hits the wheel well in the rear, and takes off at
about 50 mph... If you've never seen a 33" tire screaming down the street,
you don't know what you've missed... The thing rolled for a good 1/2 mile...
NO JOKE!! The road finally took a bend and it went up and embankment and
stopped. I had to get a ride to go get my tire!! No major damage othre
than wheel studs...Wasn't quite as funny then, but is hilarious now...
Brad


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Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 17:20:42 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6

- ----- Original Message -----
From: OAI Electronics: Paul Rozell
To:
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 8:18 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sick C6


> I am new to the mailing list. And of course I have a qeustion. I have a 65
> F100 with a 460 backed by a C6. Ever since I installed the C6 I have had
> problems. I don't know alot about tranny's so maybe someone could help.
when
> I put the truck in reverse it jerks and jumps, when I am in drive it acts
> alright unless I have any weight in the truck then it acts like it won't
> pull. Is there any fix short of pulling the tranny and installing a new
one.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
> Sick C6 in my 65 F100.

Sounds like your low / reverse clutches are shot... You can try changing the
fluid, but honestly if it hasn't been done in a while it can show you more
problems than it will fix. Sounds like you are up for a rebuild... BTW - I
encourage anyone who has never rebuilt an A/T to just do it. Kits for these
things are cheap (like $40) as are bands ($10-$25).. and if it all fails,
and you end up having to buy a bone yard model, you've only lost $50 and
some time... Well worth it to me, instead of paying $800-$1600 for the
rebuild. I have done several now, and I absolutely love it! There are
books available from ATSG that tke you through the whole thing step by
step... Really can't go wrong. :)

Brad
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 17:26:25 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - plug wires

. The looms also place these wires very close together so if
> induction were a threat this would affect these as well I should think?....


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