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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #459
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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, December 15 1999 Volume 03 : Number 459



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FW: FTE 61-79 -62 F-100 bumpers
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: rings???
FTE 61-79 - Re:460 Hard to start
FTE 61-79 - RE: Duraspark Conversion woes
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re:460 Hard to start
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Duraspark Conversion woes
FTE 61-79 - '75 F150 axle interchangability
FTE 61-79 - #1 cyl
FTE 61-79 - Duraspark upgrade.
FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 drive shaft center carrier bearing
FTE 61-79 - 460 - hard to start
RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 drive shaft center carrier bearing
RE: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark upgrade.
FTE 61-79 - noise coming from under truck
FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer
RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer
RE: FTE 61-79 - '75 F150 axle interchangability
RE: FTE 61-79 - '75 F150 axle interchangability
RE: FTE 61-79 - noise coming from under truck
FTE 61-79 - Free-running hub, 79 Bronco
RE: FTE 61-79 - Free-running hub, 79 Bronco
FTE 61-79 - FMX again
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: rings???
Re: FTE 61-79 - FMX again
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: rings???
FTE 61-79 - Suspention modification
FTE 61-79 - headers for 400
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: rings???
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sell?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Suspention modification
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: First 351M (400?) Rebuild
Re: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 drive shaft center carrier bearing
FTE 61-79 - 78 F150 Clutch Question
FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer
RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer
Re: FTE 61-79 - Suspention modification
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F150 Clutch Question
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F150 Clutch Question

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 06:36:02 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: FW: FTE 61-79 -62 F-100 bumpers

Mike is having trouble posting so I'm forwarding his post to the list :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrion, Michael [mailto:mandrion corp.adaptec.com]
> Sent: 12/13/1999 5:19 PM
> To: 'Peters, Gary (G.R.)'
> Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix? (Messages to the list?)
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I need some help. I have a 1962 F100 and I need bumpers. None of the
> catalog houses seem to carry my year. I have found several
> F100's at the
> junk yard a 61, 63 and a 65. The bracket holes seem to be
> different on
> these years. Can the bumpers from other years fit easily on
> my 62? Has
> anyone out there had the same problem and how you fix it.
>
> Also my truck seems to sag in the middle. I hear this is
> typical of the
> years 61 to 66. If so how can I also fix.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Mike
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 06:50:13 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: rings???

I have to agree.....why??? All OEM's are using them, the books say they are
the best and we all know cast rings don't live very long and chrome rings
are almost impossible to seat so....???

Moly rings require more care in honing to get them to seat but virtually all
shops are familiar with the procedure by now, they've been in use a long
time. Once seated thay last a very long time if you change your oil and oil
and air filters and care for the engine properly.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hi, Dan.
> Just curious...
>
> > Don't use Moly rings.
>
> What causes you to say this?
> And...
> What are you recommending instead?
> Muel
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 06:32:43 -0600
From: Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:460 Hard to start

> The electric choke likes to have an adjustable fast idle cam so look for a
> screw on the passenger side, behind the choke cover which rests on the choke
> cam (stepped dooflingy). Mine is missing this important part and is a bear
> in the morning because it chokes to death on an over rich mixture at 400 rpm
> idle.......not good for the engine or the neighbors or the environment :-(
> It's on my long list of things to do but it runs so.......:-)

You might try strengthening the pull off a little bit. It will keep the
idle up, you might need a little more spring pressure to keep it from
being too lean cold, but they balance out during the mid point of the
warm up.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 06:56:32 -0600
From: Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - RE: Duraspark Conversion woes

> >>>This is the reason the "next guy" can never assume while changing his
> >wires that the No.1 plug wire automatically gets stuck into the hole >next
> >to the little "1" molded into the distributor cap!
>
> The "next guy" will be me -- that's why I painted a new Number 1 on the cap.
> Like you, Stock Man, I hate changing the original setup if at all
> avoidable.
>
> Well, guys, I always look on the intake for where #1 is, then trace the wire
> to the distributor cap. Then on my own vehicles I use either a permanent
> black ink pen like a Sharpie or a silver paint pen to write a 1 on top of
> the wire and on the cap by the tower.

Stabbing a duraspark distributor is tough. The teeth on the shaft have
to be aligned perfectly with the stator at TDC, a half tooth error is 7
3/4 degrees error on the timing.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:11:41 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re:460 Hard to start

Pull off? We don't need no stinking pull off.......:-) It's a Holley,
after market, installed by a dweeeb. I'm just too lazy to take it off and
fix it :-)

That's a good idea though when I do get to it :-) Thanks for reminding me
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> You might try strengthening the pull off a little bit. It
> will keep the
> idle up, you might need a little more spring pressure to keep it from
> being too lean cold, but they balance out during the mid point of the
> warm up.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:29:04 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Duraspark Conversion woes

I find duraspark the simplest thing in the world to work with. You figure
out where you want the vac, position the crank at 10 BTDC (compression on #1
of course), locate the rotor where you want it, back it up about 1/8 turn
and "stab" it. If it doesn't go in you simply pull it, turn the pump shaft
1/8 or 1/16 turn or so and stab it again. Once in and where you want it you
turn the dizzy so that one of the rotor arms lines up exactly and completely
covers the rectangle in the stator and lock it down and forget it. Piece a
cake :-) I like to center the vac between the thermostat housing and valve
cover or what ever obsticles are there so I have room to time it if needed
later.

If you are only working on the dizzy you can position the engine using the
rotor location to find TDC on #1 cylinder to make the job easier before
pulling the dizzy (assuming it was close to begin with). Then don't move
the engine again til you are done. That's the way I do it because, quite
frankly, I'm getting lazy in my old age :-)

If it's already out and the engine is in an unknown position then you have
to do it the hard way and stick your thumb over #1 plug hole and turn it til
you feel the compression coming up, then "seek" the marks on the damper and
continue with the above.

In any case, changing the normal location of the wires is really an effort
intensive way to get it done and usually nets you a less desireable wire
routing and can be confusing later. Even though I can always trace the #1
wire back to the Dizzy I really like the #1 to be in the rear, slightly to
the left of center on all my engines simply for convenience and consistancy.

Now if the damper ring and migrated.........then maybe you need a degree
whe.........maybe not :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Stabbing a duraspark distributor is tough. The teeth on the
> shaft have
> to be aligned perfectly with the stator at TDC, a half tooth
> error is 7
> 3/4 degrees error on the timing.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:59:50 -0600
From: "Kelley McDaniel"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - '75 F150 axle interchangability

I bought a '75 F150 SuperCab for parts. It was in better shape than the '76 I
bought it for. So I ran down the title and am beginning restoration.

It had the rear axle, housing and all, diked out of it; driveshaft, brake lines,
e-brake, etc. torched to remove it.

My question: what trucks or vans (model ranges) can I get a rear end from to get
this on the road?

It has a 460 in it, so I think I want a 2.77 ratio. Comnments?

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:09:17 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - #1 cyl

Tom H. writes: >>I was shown for locating Cylinder 1 is look at the engine
from
the side. One bank of cylinders is further forward than the other. The
first (forwardmost) cylinder on that bank is #1. I was told this works
regardless of the make of the engine.

Works on all V configured engines I've ever looked at, but those Foreigners
might not be that way.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:15:06 -0600
From: Dennis.Slama rexnord.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark upgrade.

There was a message posted last week that mentioned a Duraspark Upgrade
kit. I have since lost the message and would like to know who sells this
kit. Could whoever posted that message or anybody else that might know tell
me who sells this kit. Thanks.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:31:59 -0600
From: "Howard Bottles"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 drive shaft center carrier bearing

Guys-

I have a 74 F250 long bed that has the 2 piece drive shaft, and I need
to replace the center carrier bearing. Is this bearing pressed on or is
it supposed to come off easy? Originally the truck had a 360/3spd and
this weekend I installed the new 390/T18 4spd and thought it best to
replace the carrier while I was there.

Any info is appreciated

Howardb
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:16:46 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460 - hard to start

>>What I've learned over time is that once the engine is running in gear
down the road, except for a flat spot off idle untill it warms up, it will
run happily without any choke so it only needs to be on for a short time
which the electric choke does to perfection and you won't have to remove the
intake to clean out the cross over :-)

I've been following these choke threads with interest. First, I am not
disagreeing with any advice from anyone, just trying to make some
clarifications and provide some insight.

My 351M has the stock 2v carb with an automatic choke. The choke has several
components that must all function correctly for the whole choke system to
work properly. First, there is a bimetal coil spring behond the little round
black cover. As the temperature decreases, the coils in this spring get
looser causing the butterfly to close to various degrees when you initially
pump the gas pedal to start the truck. As the temperature increases, this
spring tightens and holds the choke butterfly open. If this coil spring is
out of adjustment, the truck will be hard to start to impossible if it gets
cold enough outside.

The next piece is the heat stove that sits in the intake manifold. This
takes exhaust gases and heats a little coil of tubing that has air in it
that heats up the spring. Don't run exhaust gases straight to the coil
spring. They get too hot too fast, make a lot of noise and will effect
performance like a small vacuum leak. The little tube that goes from the
heat stove up to the carb usually gets burned and rusted away. If yours has,
either fix it or cap the connection on the carb.

The third piece is the electric portion. This particular carb is not an
electric choke carb. The electric portion heats another coil spring that
pulls the choke open during start up. If the choke doesn't pull open as soon
as the starter engages, the engine won't start. No air. Many carbs have a
vacuum pull off valve that does the same thing. On a hard to start Buick, I
put a piece of split fuel line on the butterfly so that it didn't quite
close all of the way. Worked great until I could replace the pull off vacuum
motor.

Generally, the reason an engine has to be choked to start has to do with the
gasoline's ability to vapor. In a cold engine, less gasoline vapors, so you
need less air to fire properly, otherwise the liquid gasoline drowns the
fire. An EFI engine doen't have to be choked like a carbed engine because
the computer sets all the buttrflies for you based on sensor information.
Glow plugs take care of you with a deisel.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:38:11 -0500
From: Marvin Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 drive shaft center carrier bearing

Howard;
The bearing is pressed on, it's not an interference fit, so you can get it
off with a few whacks with a hammer. To reinstall the new one just find a
1" or 1 1/4" pipe that will slip over the splined shaft. If I remember
correctly you have to save the sheet metal shaped horse shoe bracket
though, when my new one came it only came with the rubber and the bearing
only. May be your parts store supplies the bracket.
Marvin
meyer strat.net
Is this bearing pressed on or is it supposed to come off easy?.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:45:56 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Duraspark upgrade.

> There was a message posted last week that mentioned a Duraspark Upgrade
> kit.

That was probably me ... it was in the FMS/FRPP depening on whether you're
politically correct or old school :)

Its on page 61, they have a coil, a wiring harness and a control module (a
couple different coils depending on app)

Here's the numbers and such :

Oil Filled Ignition Coil - Must be used with control module below - High
energy oil filled coil for CD ignition systems. Accepts Ford "horeshoe"
coil connector. Low primary resistance. Heavy duty construction -
M-12029-E351

Ignition Wiring Harness - Race quality wiring harness. Includes connectors
and sufficient wire lengths to install ultria high energy CD ignition system
on any vehicle. (Also permits connection to all Ford TFI-IV (EEC-IV Engine
Control) systems. - M-12071-B351

Ignition Control Module - Must be used with ignition coil above (or one of
the other 2 listed on the page), will not extend rev limit on EEC-IV
systems, has EO for up to 95 vehicles - "Ultra" high energy CD ignition
module with rev control. For competition or all-out racing applications.
Provides improved capability to fire wet, fouled spark plugs over non-CD
systems - M-12199-E351


Those are the DS components anyway ... you should be able to order them by
part number from Jegs or Summit, or your local Ford Motorsports Dealer ...
the control box has an MSRP of something like $200, the wiring harness
another $100, and the coil is $25 ... Jegs/Summit may be able to come in
under that price ...

I think that's all the info there is for ya... if you need any more, lemme
know ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:35:13 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - noise coming from under truck

>>Check the rear yoke on the Diff and make sure it's tight. These tend to
come loose since they are torqued against a "crush" sleeve.

I guess there is a limit to how much you can retighten this nut? Can it be
overtightened? Over Christmas break I will check mine again, too, along with
the u-joints just on GP. What is the suggested method for preventing this
nut from working loose? It's got to be locktite or never sieze, that's the
stock answers. :-)

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 09:21:17 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer

>>You wouldn't believe how handy it is in the school environment though to be
able to read PC disks on a Mac ... I also have a program to let me read Mac
disks on a PC, mostly 'cause Apple is promoting the absense of a floppy
drive ... so John must have an external one, or be "suffering" not using his
3.5" drive :)

Yes I have a USB floppy drive. Of course I'm hooked up to a 175 node
Ethernet local network, all Macs can act as file servers, so moving a file
to/from a floppy to/from any machine is not a problem.

I guess the Mac vs PC argument is like any other brand war, everyone has an
opinion. 95% of the arguments against Macs are just flat not true, though.
BTW, the processor Mhz rating is a very inaccurate way to rate the speed of
a computer. There are at least 5 other factors involved. It's kind of like
our recent discussion on the 351c vs 351w vs 351m vs 352. I think we all
agreed that cubic inches is not what makes the difference. (See I did
squeeze FTE content in there.)

BTW, I'll be glad to help with Mac questions off list. I can shrug my
shoulders as good as anyone. :-)

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 11:00:09 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer

> Yes I have a USB floppy drive. Of course I'm hooked up to a 175 node
> Ethernet local network, all Macs can act as file servers, so moving a file
> to/from a floppy to/from any machine is not a problem.
>
Within certain limitations of course :) Isn't bein hooked directly up great
though? Lets you access all the FTE sites much faster :)

> I guess the Mac vs PC argument is like any other brand war,
> everyone has an
> opinion. 95% of the arguments against Macs are just flat not true, though.

I find this is true with most of the arguments where someone doesn't know
anything about the product they don't like ...

> BTW, the processor Mhz rating is a very inaccurate way to rate
> the speed of
> a computer. There are at least 5 other factors involved.

Not to mention RISC vs MIPS based processors, its like comparing Fords and
Chevies :) And then there's the RAM speeds and sizes, and the bus speeds,
and ...and...and... :)

> BTW, I'll be glad to help with Mac questions off list. I can shrug my
> shoulders as good as anyone. :-)
>

hehehe .. some of us get lots of exercise doing that and get paid for it :)
I wonder if I'm building shoulder muscles this week ? :)

more FTE content: I've used my truck several times for hauling both Macs
and PC's to and from the labs ... I just wish some computer manufacturer
would make a box that stacks in a pickup bed an even number of times and
snugly!

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 12:00:30 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '75 F150 axle interchangability

Many vans of that vintage still used the 28 spline axle. You can't mix them
with 31 spline parts so if you want the stronger axle you probably need to
look at later 70's like the 78 pickup or bronco. Not sure when they
actually stared using the 31 in trucks but it was before or during 78 but my
75 van had the 28 spline axles. If it is a 9" then the parts will all
interchange but the diff has to match the axle splines, otherwise they are
pretty much interchangeable. My 78 is a 2.75, 31 spline diff. The bronco
is 3.50, 31 spline.

The 2.75 works best with the wide ratio C-6. Not sure how it will work with
the 4 speed. Remember that the lugging at low rpms in first gear eats gas
so, while the 460 can handle wider gear spacing, it actually suffers with
close ratios and tall gearing. It really needs to be a "combination" of the
right parts to work well.

What size tires do you plan to use?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I bought a '75 F150 SuperCab for parts. It was in better
>
> My question: what trucks or vans (model ranges) can I get a
> rear end from to get
> this on the road?
>
> It has a 460 in it, so I think I want a 2.77 ratio. Comnments?
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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 13:20:20 -0500
From: Marvin Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '75 F150 axle interchangability

meyer strat.net

Not sure when they
actually stared using the 31 in trucks but it was before or during 78 but my

My 76 supercab has the factory 31 spline in it, just changed gears from 3.00 to 3.5's

75 van had the 28 spline axles.

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Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 13:31:36 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - noise coming from under truck

Weeeeeeeell, My method is not recommended but has worked so far.....I got
irritated because I didn't have anything lying around convenient enough to
suit me to hold the yoke while I tightened it so I just slapped a socket on
my 3/4" drive impact and let 'er fly. I didn't hold it forever though just
enough to get it tight and it did hum for a while afterwards but now it's
quiet and tight both. There is a high freque resonance in the truck at 60
though which could be this beginning to come appart, don't know :-)

I also used this method on the output yoke in the xfer case but those home
against a shoulder so it should not be a problem in that case. The impact
simply allows me to hold the yoke by hand and let the hammers do the work
:-) My 1/2" drive wouldn't even touch it so I went to my Tim Taylor
impact......:-)

Since it was once tightened correctly I would suspect that if you took the
nut off and used some blue loctite on it and retorqued it to the recommended
spec you would be awfully darned close to spec on the preload as well. If I
recall that torque is about 275#?? which is a bunch! Unless you are a
gorilla you won't even be able to put that much on it by hand :-) Somehow
that number seems high to me??

Don't use red locktite on anything that will ever have to come back off.
It's a little too good at it's job for that. Blue is fine for virtually any
task to keep the nuts on but you should also clean the parts so there is no
grease or oil on them. Technically you are supposed to use blue loctite on
brake pins in disk brake setups too but I usually use anti-seize there and
none have come apart yet. I just never seem to have any blue loctite around
when I get things apart so I cheat but I'm not recommending this :-) Always
forget to pick some up when I'm in the store :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >>Check the rear yoke on the Diff and make sure it's tight.
> These tend to
> come loose since they are torqued against a "crush" sleeve.
>
> I guess there is a limit to how much you can retighten this
> nut? Can it be
> overtightened? Over Christmas break I will check mine again,
> too, along with
> the u-joints just on GP. What is the suggested method for
> preventing this
> nut from working loose? It's got to be locktite or never
> sieze, that's the
> stock answers. :-)
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 11:16:15 -0800
From: "Jeff Norville"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Free-running hub, 79 Bronco

My 79 Bronco, Dana 44-9F front end, has issues with it's hubs; was planning
on repacking front wheel bearings while waiting for engine paint to dry on
new motor when I discovered this mess...

Front right hub is ok - original hub but all intact, lubed, springs were ok.
Front left: metal chunks (formerly springs/retainer clips), 'dry' grease,
sleeve/ring assembly broken (inner & outer collar separated). Ow.

Now I can't get the whole hub assembly out because the loose metal
apparently smashed the non-weight bearing spindle tip teeth (_outside_ of
where the snap ring used to be), and the inner portion of the sleeve/ring
assembly is stuck on the spindle with no way of sliding out over mashed
teeth!

So to tried filing these - then realized it's the spaces between the teeth
that are actually mushroomed, and filing that will take forever - and I
don't know how deep this mess has gotten. And it's a little scary filing
one's axle.

I suppose I will end up replacing everything from the spindle assembly out -
seems unlikely that the wheel bearing itself is damaged, but only patience
with a grinding stone will tell.

How did this happen? Looks like the plastic actuating cam assembly broke
sometime and that hub remained locked - or out of lock when the other was in
lock. I don't seem to remember ever feeling resistance while switching, so
I assume this has been chewing away for three or more years...

Any ideas if I can look forward to more problems inside the front diff
because of this? The cheapo aftermarket Superwinch hubs I bought to replace
the faded/crumbly plastic don't mate all the way into the hub (o ring not
seating) on the good side - will probably return them - Warn seems to be
popular on this list, they seem overpriced on hubs?

Jeff
Whose engine compartment is prettier than the rest of the truck now...
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:46:36 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Free-running hub, 79 Bronco

Are you talking about the outer hub cylinder with internal splines? This is
the only part that isn't replaced with new lock out hubs and, in fact, is
part of the wheel hub. If this is damaged the wheel hub must be replaced.
If you found metal chunks in the hub area you better replace the bearings
too. That's cheap insurance, trust one who just went through this. In my
case all the parts were melted into a glob and even the spindle was trashed.

I would venture to guess you hit something very hard with that hub which
shoved the outer cap into the hub and mushroomed the splines. Even if you
get the splines filed out and get the ring out I suspect that this hub is
fatally damaged from what you describe.

I put the warn premiums in and like them but they require one full turn of
the lock knob to engage. I like the way they are made and engage and also
like the instructions that come with them which some of us have been
preaching for some time......don't grease the snot out of your hubs, it only
interferes with the operation so that one day you will blow it up due to
lack of full engagement. They should be lightly greased with white lithium
grease, very lightly, just enough go keep them from rusting.

The wheel bearings themselves should be fully packed but no additional
grease should be applied anywhere in the hub, not between the bearings and
not in the lock out mechanism exept as described above.

If you still insist on trying to save the hub, get a small thin mill file
which will fit in the splines, clean the area with brake cleaner so that it
is squeaky clean and carefully file them maintaining the file in alignment
with the grooves. Files must be BONE dry to work properly. Don't go any
deeper into the hub than you have to and it will be fine because the outer
portion of the spline does no work, it simply holds the retaining ring for
the cap retainer so you just need to get the clearance to get the parts out
within the first 1/4-3/8" or so. If the damage is any deeper than that you
will probably not be able to save it. Make sure there is no swelled area
near the bearing races indicating the bearing spun. Mine had a really
visable ring around it at the base of the outer hub area right where the
outer spindle bearing race was. It stuck out about 1/4" all the way around
:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Front right hub is ok - original hub but all intact, lubed,
> springs were ok.
> Front left: metal chunks (formerly springs/retainer clips),
> 'dry' grease,
> sleeve/ring assembly broken (inner & outer collar separated). Ow.
>
> Now I can't get the whole hub assembly out because the loose metal
> apparently smashed the non-weight bearing spindle tip teeth
> (_outside_ of
> where the snap ring used to be), and the inner portion of the
> sleeve/ring
> assembly is stuck on the spindle with no way of sliding out
> over mashed
> teeth!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 13:11:26 -0700 (MST)
From: TLHCowboy webtv.net (Tarry Harper)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FMX again

Thanks for all the info guys. Too bad the guy I was buying the engine
off of backed out of it. Now I'm just going to find another 289 to
replace the one that I just cracked the block in. I have a lot of time
and money into it anyways. I'll just pull all my h-po stuff off and
rework it for another 289. Thanks again for the info.

'66 F-100 Custom Cab long bed 4x2 "Old Route 66"

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 17:29:54 -0600
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: rings???

Gary, I'm inclined to question your statement below. My cast rings have
about 175,000 miles on them, and I'd say they still have some life left
in them. My 390 is 30 years old, with a virgin (never been apart)
shortblock, and I still have 110-120 pounds of cylinder pressure. There
is minimal blow-by. I've always ran a 195 degree t-stat (which happens
to be the best temp for cylinder wall life, according to what I've
read), and changed oil, filters, and pcv valves on a regular basis.

Jason Kendrick

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
we all know cast rings don't live very long
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:39:01 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - FMX again

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Tarry Harper
To:
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 3:11 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FMX again


> Thanks for all the info guys. Too bad the guy I was buying the engine
> off of backed out of it. Now I'm just going to find another 289 to
> replace the one that I just cracked the block in. I have a lot of time
> and money into it anyways. I'll just pull all my h-po stuff off and
> rework it for another 289. Thanks again for the info.
>
> '66 F-100 Custom Cab long bed 4x2 "Old Route 66"
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

You may have better luck finding a 302, probably cheaper too, and most all
of your parts will swap... in fact they all will... Just a bit of friendly
advice...

Brad


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:45:27 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: rings???

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jason & Kathy Kendrick
To:
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: rings???


> Gary, I'm inclined to question your statement below. My cast rings have
> about 175,000 miles on them, and I'd say they still have some life left
> in them. My 390 is 30 years old, with a virgin (never been apart)
> shortblock, and I still have 110-120 pounds of cylinder pressure. There
> is minimal blow-by. I've always ran a 195 degree t-stat (which happens
> to be the best temp for cylinder wall life, according to what I've
> read), and changed oil, filters, and pcv valves on a regular basis.
>
> Jason Kendrick
>
> Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
> we all know cast rings don't live very long
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Of course an engine with this kind of maintenence will last a long time. I
think what is being said is that apples for apples, Moly rings last longer.
This makes sense because of the material they are made of... it is "slicker"
than cast iron...

Brad


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:48:51 EST
From: Lukes67 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Suspention modification

What is the best way to lower the rear suspension on a 67 F100?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 16:16:18 PST
From: "steve potratz"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - headers for 400

Does anyone know the existance of shorty or trywye headers for
400 4wd applications? Also the merits/cost of extrude honing the stock
manifolds instead?

Steve
______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 18:36:47 -0600
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: rings???

Brad, I agree with you there. In my first post, I should have asked
what the statement was based on. Cast rings will last a long time, with
some care, but with the same care, moly rings will last longer yet.

Jason

Brad Smith wrote:
I
> think what is being said is that apples for apples, Moly rings last longer.
> This makes sense because of the material they are made of... it is "slicker"
> than cast iron...
>
> Brad
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 16:40:01 PST
From: "White Wolf"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sell?

Hey sorry Im taking so long to reply.. I live in Arlington, Texas.


>From: Bryan Kirking
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sell?
>Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:56:18 +0000
>
>Where are you located?
>
>At 02:24 PM 12/12/99 PST, you wrote:
> > I might be selling my '66 F100 352 if anyone is interested... I really
> >like the truck but i just keep having too many problems with it. Not to
> >mention that every time I get one thing fixed something else breaks. So
> >email me if your interested while I finish deciding.
> >
> >______________________________________________________
> > > >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> >
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 20:12:10 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Suspention modification

In a message dated 12/14/99 6:52:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, Lukes67 aol.com
writes:

> What is the best way to lower the rear suspension on a 67 F100?

Various companies sell kits for lowering a suspension. I understand
these kits contain bolt in spring shackles which will lower the frame in
relation to the springs/axle. I suppose you could also consider lower
profile tires too.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 21:22:06 EST
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: First 351M (400?) Rebuild

In a message dated 12/13/99 11:13:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
fourmuelz email.msn.com writes:


Just curious...

> Don't use Moly rings.

What causes you to say this?
And...
What are you recommending instead?
Muel
>>

I'm curious also. Ive used Moly rings before in my 400 and they worked fine.
Actually, the lifter/pushrod assembly ejected first!

George
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 21:34:54 EST
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 74 F250 drive shaft center carrier bearing

In a message dated 12/14/99 9:28:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Howard.Bottles austin.ppdi.com writes:



I have a 74 F250 long bed that has the 2 piece drive shaft, and I need
to replace the center carrier bearing. Is this bearing pressed on or is
it supposed to come off easy? Originally the truck had a 360/3spd and
this weekend I installed the new 390/T18 4spd and thought it best to
replace the carrier while I was there.

Any info is appreciated
>>


I had to replace mine on me ol '73 F100 and as I remember, it was the whole
assembly, not just the bearing. I don't recall the price but do remember that
it wasn't too unreasonable in price. Was defiantly simple!

George
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 22:19:29 -0500
From: "Brad Smith"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 F150 Clutch Question

Just wondering if anyone out there can help me find what clutch setup I
need for my truck... I've got a 78 F150 4X4 with a 429 in it, mated to a
Borg Warner top loader tranny (4spd w/granny gear). I need to find out what
size clutch this thing has in it, and I would like to do so before pulling
it down.... It is sad really, I bought this truck from a guy about 5 years
ago... He had poorly matched his engine components, so I tore her down to
just a short block, and re-did everything... Truck runs great now, but I now
live ~30 miles from work, and so I drive my 92 Ranger on a daily basis... I
would like to start driving Big Blue again more often, but she needs a
clutch... Just looking for some help if anyone else has done the 460
conversion using this tranny, everything should be identical....

Brad


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 21:31:59 -0600
From: Brent l Byers
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer

As soon as I figure out how, I plan to put a 486 dx66 under the hood of
my '68 f-100. I really don't know why. Maybe as a Red Green/MacGyvered
electronic engine control. Perhaps to fine tune timer chips on a cobbled
fuel injection. The main reason would be to see it in there and to see
if I can do it. Probably have to rubber glue everything together.
___________________________________________________________________
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 20:18:47 PST
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer

to put a 486 dx66 under the hood of
>my '68 f-100. I really don't know why. Maybe as a Red Green/MacGyvered
>electronic engine control. Perhaps to fine tune timer chips on a cobbled
>fuel injection. The main reason would be to see it in there and to see
>if I can do it. Probably have to rubber glue everything together.

why not??.. I duct-taped my computer UPS under the hood of my truck last
summer with a jumper from the battery to charge it so i could run the
blender on a camping trip...Pina colada anyone??

Don Jones
1970 F-250 4x4 ~Fordzilla~
______________________________________________________

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:45:35 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Suspention modification

how low do you want to go? a friend of mine did a axle over spring swap, it
required welding on new spring perches and he ordered dropped I beams for the
front, it was sitting in the dirt.

jeff grant
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 23:04:49 -0800
From: "bronco66"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 F150 Clutch Question

there is no way to tell until you pull it apart. With my 72 with a 429 and
a NP435 I use the clutch from i beleive a 71 t-bird. But the pilot bushing
doesn't fit and i could not find any that do. I ended up buying one a
little to big and turning it down.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Brad Smith
To:
Sent: Tuesday, December 14, 1999 7:19 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 F150 Clutch Question....


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