From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #458
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, December 14 1999 Volume 03 : Number 458



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 - hard to start
RE: FTE 61-79 - Sparkle plugs
Re: FTE 61-79 - can somebody decode these
RE: FTE 61-79 - #1 Cylinder
RE: FTE 61-79 - FMX
RE: FTE 61-79 - New noise coming from under truck
RE: FTE 61-79 - Parking Brake Broke
FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer
Re: FTE 61-79 - Head Gasket
RE: FTE 61-79 - #1 Cylinder
FTE 61-79 - Things about Springs
FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes
RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer
Re: FTE 61-79 - Sell?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Parking Brake Broke
FTE 61-79 - FMX
FTE 61-79 - timing and #1 cylinder
RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: 429 T-Birds
RE: FTE 61-79 - New noise coming from under truck
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 into a 65
FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Cab Mounts
RE: FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil pickup hard to find...
Re: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer
Re: FTE 61-79 - First 351M (400?) Rebuild
FTE 61-79 - Re: FMX
FTE 61-79 - T18 countershaft dummyshaft/drift
Re: FTE 61-79 - First 351M (400?) Rebuild
Re: FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix?
FTE 61-79 - FMX
FTE 61-79 - Re: First 351M (400?) Rebuild
FTE 61-79 - Spare tire carrier ???

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:30:07 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 - hard to start

At some point I have seen the exhaust cross over tube AND electric choke but
all you have to do to convert an exhaust choke to an electric is change the
black cover part and supply 12v to the cover with a good ground. The
electric is much more reliable than the older exhaust version so regardless
of which you now have I would hook up an electric cap and wire it to the
input wire to the ignition module or the Run/Acc side of the ignition
switch, not the Acc only side so it only operates when in the run position.
If you connect to the module input you will probably be getting less than
12v, not sure (too dang rusty to be sure any more, I always have to get the
multimeter out to figure it out every time I work on it :-)) You can also
hook this up to the field wire to the regulator but be carefull to get more
info on this since they vary quite a bit and it may not be a good idea in
your case. Many of the newer ones ground the regulator through the choke
and the alternator won't even charge without that connection. (don't ask
:-))

The electric choke likes to have an adjustable fast idle cam so look for a
screw on the passenger side, behind the choke cover which rests on the choke
cam (stepped dooflingy). Mine is missing this important part and is a bear
in the morning because it chokes to death on an over rich mixture at 400 rpm
idle.......not good for the engine or the neighbors or the environment :-(
It's on my long list of things to do but it runs so.......:-)

As a last resort you can install a manual but that's a pain in the but to
intall and also to use because if you don't have a timer with a beeper on it
to tell you when to turn it off you will run your plugs into the ground and
fill you crank case with fuel over time........unless you are more aware
than I am at least....:-( I never remember to turn the stupid thing off!
:-( What I've learned over time is that once the engine is running in gear
down the road, except for a flat spot off idle untill it warms up, it will
run happily without any choke so it only needs to be on for a short time
which the electric choke does to perfection and you won't have to remove the
intake to clean out the cross over :-)

BTW, if the cross over is really plugged you may want to look into that
anyway since it affects your fuel economy. 460's are very cold blooded in
my experience, probably due to the size, but they seem to need a lot of raw
fuel to start well so a good accellerator pump is also a required element.
You can check that simply by moving the throttle with air cleaner off and
choke open and looking in the carb as you open it to see if fuel squirts
out. It should be smooth, steady and continue over most of the throttle
travel.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The engine is basically strong. It drives well (smooth and
> pulls well), but it
> is a major pain to start when it is cold. In my other truck I
> press the gas
> pedal twice to set the choke and to get a bit of fuel in
> there, turn the key,
> and vroom - it starts right up every time. The new truck is
> just a bitch to
> get going.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:53:19 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Sparkle plugs

As we mentioned earlier, the platinum plugs were designed for newer, high
output ignitions which can overcome the resistance in the platinum. They
actually interfere with good spark in an older vehicle equipped with low
output coils including dura spark. To make the best use of them you need to
get into the later ignition with higher output coils, mid 80's or newer.

If you use an after market igniton module and coil then we have a whole
nuther smoke :-) The primary advantage to them is longevity. They don't
erode as quickly as copper with modern cylinder temps and lean fuel mixtures
and fuels.

Theoretically, copper is going to give you the best performance because it
has the lowest resistance and will allow the hottest spark under high rpms
and high cylinder pressures. Longer and wider sparks also add to the
performace by involving more fuel molecules in the ignition process so multi
electrode may be an improvement but only if you have enough output to fire
them all with good power so don't be fooled by "Split Fire" adds and similar
adds which don't explain the small details such as these. Under the right
conditions some of these plugs may actually do what they claim but most of
us do not have the system requirements to make this happen. Each spark
added to the mess is that much less intense than the single spark with the
same power supply so if you increase the power you can increase the number
of sparks by that amount.....double the coil output, double the number of
sparks (more or less).

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> fouled on me, however last time I was at the dyno, the guy
> running it said
> that he would buy me a set of whatever kinda plugs I wanted
> if I installed
> standard copper autolites, and they didn't improve my
> performance... OK,
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 08:12:41 -0500
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - can somebody decode these

Bill,

I believe you're right on the heads. Went home and found the 2 sets of the
C8AE-H and 1 set of the D2TE-AA. Thanks for the heads up!

- -Ted





Ballinger on 12/12/99 11:23:04 AM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: Ford Truck Enthusiasts
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - can somebody decode these



> Joe wrote:
> >Can somebody decode these 2 intake Codes...
> >C80E-9425-C
>
> I know this one... it's a 428CJ manifold. I've got one in
> my garage. If you want to sell it, there's someone on the
> list that may be looking for one if you're close enough for
> shipping to be reasonable.
> Bill, are you still out there?

Yes, I'm here, and still interested in finding a CJ intake for my
truck. E-mail me and tell me more, where you are, and whether you want
to sell it, etc.

I'd like to buy Steve's, but the shipping from the left coast appears
prohibitively expensive. My engine combination just calls out for one,
though. I have a std Performer 390, I'd trade for it, BTW. It needs to
be bead blasted, but would be great on a truck with a less agressive
combination than mine.
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 08:41:29 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - #1 Cylinder

I think this may have been adequately answered but keep in mind when you
describe something relative to it's position in a vehicle that the official
vantage and the one most people think of are from the vantage of the driver,
sitting in the driver position so "left" would be the driver side of the
vehicle.

Viewing the engine from the front of the vehicle, looking down on it from
the grill the #1 is on your left, or passenger side, in front and the
"Dizzy" is slightly to your "right" of center, just behind the water pump,
on top of the intake manifold or block as the case may be and has all these
fat wires coming out the top :-) It spins counter clockwise as you view it
from above, at half the speed of the engine and if you could see it run it
would make you "Dizzy" :-) It also Dizztributes the juice to the plugs :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Greetings,
> I need to ask if anyone knows which cylinder is #1 on a 72
> F100 390, I
> think it is the first cylinder from the front on the left
> side am I right,
> another thing I would like to ask is what in the hell is a
> "Dizzy" I have
> seen the terms used extensivly on the list but can't figure
> out what it is
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 08:56:36 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - FMX

The I-6-300, 260, 289, 302 and 351W and 351C all use the same bolt pattern
which is typically called the "Small Block" pattern. The FE has it's own,
roundish pattern and the 351m/400 and 429/460 have the "Big Block" pattern.

I believe there was on exception in the 260/289 engine series where there
were 5 bolts instead of 6 and this may be a problem, not sure.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Will a 351W bolt to the same bell housing on a FMX as a
> 289? Will the
> distributor swap out? Anything that will swap would be helpful
> knowledge.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:03:58 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - New noise coming from under truck

Check the rear yoke on the Diff and make sure it's tight. These tend to
come loose since they are torqued against a "crush" sleeve. The other
obvious possibility is a ujoint problem in the drive shaft but since this is
a new installation, the back lash or pinion depth of the rear end could be
wrong and it took a few miles for the wear to show up as vibration or some
of the bolts inside could be coming loose etc. depending on the credibility
of your installer. If you have the two piece drive shaft the carrier
bearing is a real possibility too.

It could be a bad rear tranny bushing too which would also cause the seal to
fail or a worn slip yoke.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Well the other day I was coming home from work and noticed or heard a
> new noise that definately not natural coming from my truck. I
> immediately thought could I have a bearing going. I recently replaced
> the rear end and don't think thats it.

> hear from a 4Whl Drive with brand new all terrain tires. I
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:31:41 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Parking Brake Broke

Typically this kind of breakage is due to loosening of some of the retaining
bolts which allows part of the assy to flex. Over time it will begin to
fracture where it is bending. If the cables were seized you simply would
not be able to push it down :-)

I would guess this can easily be welded back up satisfactorily fur just a
few bucks. Make sure all the mounting bolts keep it firmly against the
sheet metal so there is no flex and check the cables too while you have it
apart. You should be able to get some movement out of them by hand if they
are not seized.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The parking brake on my '72, (foot-operated) broke off. That is, the
> "control assembly" broke just short of the bolt that attaches
> it to the
> dash,
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:02:01 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer

>>Anyway it's a HP 6525 with 500mg Celeron, 12 gig drive, rw cdrom and 11 meg
of video ram. $599 for the box, keyboard and mouse. I thought that was a
really good price. If it wasn't, DON'T TELL ME! :-(

Well, Gary, you have my sympathy. A Wintel box. Ughhh! My new sysrtem is a
Macintosh G4, 450 mhz, 128 Mb RAM, 1 Mb backside cache, 27 Gb hard drive,
Zip, 24x DVD drive, ATI Rage video, Xclaim 128 VR video, USB, and Firewire.
It is capable of performing at over 1 gigaflop. I haven't figured out how to
get it to make coffee or take out the trash yet. Uhhh, it cost about 4 times
what yours did, though.

Kidding aside, sounds like you got a good buy. These old Fords are great for
hauling home Christmas time goodies.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:11:43 -0600
From: Ballinger
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Head Gasket

> Make sure the pushrods go back as before. When placing the intake manifold
> gaskets front and back, make sure you stick them in place before putting the
> manifold on top. I use contact cement from a tube of trim adhesive. If you
> do not do this and you move the manifold forward or aft a little bit while
> resting on the gasket, it is likely to move just enough such that the rear
> gasket lines up in front of rear oil drain from the head. This will divert a
> continuos stream of oil out onto the bell housing, and will be very difficult
> to locate. Another problem might occur when trying to remove the exhaust
> manifold bolts to the head. Soak them good before trying to break them
> loose, or they may break. Good Luck

Great advice all over, and I've learned something else from a fellow
named George Anderson who runs a fine shop up in Hasting Nebraska that
will save your distributor bushings in an FE.

Get the timing position set to stab the distributor before you set the
intake gaskets. Do just as you said, stick the end seals down (if you
use them, some folks just use a bead of silicone, which wouldn't lend
itself as well to this procedure) with something that will hold them in
place (thanks Ross for reccomending 3M yellow death), and put silicone
on the top side so the intake will slip around a little. Silicone the
water passages both sides, and put a glob in each corner and a small
bead on both sides of the gasket on the sides in front and rear. Start
your bolts and with a speed wrench run them down in sequence to where
they are all in but not against the bosses yet. Stab the distributor,
and align the intake where the distributor just slips freely in, meaning
slide the maniofold around a little till it just drops in with the only
resistance being the o-ring and the pump shaft. Then torque the intake
down. You have to work quick because the silcone sets up.

If the intake isn't right it will put a load on the distributor bushings
causing accellerated wear.

Another thing I do while torquing a head, intake or exhaust manifold
down is have someone tap on it with a hammer, following my sequence
opposite me as I torque it down. Not a hard hit, just ringing taps.

I do it just for good luck.
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:09:47 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - #1 Cylinder

Another trick I was shown for locating Cylinder 1 is look at the engine from
the side. One bank of cylinders is further forward than the other. The
first (forwardmost) cylinder on that bank is #1. I was told this works
regardless of the make of the engine.

Tom H.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Stu Varner [mailto:nukegm ford-trucks.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 1999 12:09 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - #1 Cylinder


At 11:35 AM 12/12/99 PST, you wrote:
>Greetings,
> I need to ask if anyone knows which cylinder is #1 on a 72 F100 390, I
>think it is the first cylinder from the front on the left side am I right,


Passengers side front, next to where the stock battery loacation is.
It should be on the intake manifold above each cylinder.


Stu
Nuke GM!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:52:22 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Things about Springs

Hey Bill,

Well, these leaves are all the same....non-tapered. I'm guessing it was just
the stiffness of the spring pack when I had anywhere between 6 and 10 leaves.
You see, I started with 10 leaves and it bounced, then I took out three, and
it still bounced, I then took out one more, and it bounced, but at a slower
speed, so I knew I was on to the problem. This weekend, I pulled out one
more, put in an overload spring and some higher blocks, and the bounce
appears to be completely gone....

So, it appears it was some combination of the weight of the axle, the
wheelbase, the weight of the truck, the drivetrain etc. that added up to the
system hitting some kind of resonant or harmonic frequency at that speed.....

CJ

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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:14:41 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes

>>>This is the reason the "next guy" can never assume while changing his
>wires that the No.1 plug wire automatically gets stuck into the hole >next
>to the little "1" molded into the distributor cap!

The "next guy" will be me -- that's why I painted a new Number 1 on the cap.
Like you, Stock Man, I hate changing the original setup if at all
avoidable.

Well, guys, I always look on the intake for where #1 is, then trace the wire
to the distributor cap. Then on my own vehicles I use either a permanent
black ink pen like a Sharpie or a silver paint pen to write a 1 on top of
the wire and on the cap by the tower.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:53:56 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer

Since all my work was on an IBM platform I concentrated my efforts at home
on that platform as well. When the Mac first came out it had the makings of
a superior hardware and operating system but used a very small screen which
required less actual CPU time to fill at "so called" high resolution but
savy users figure out the scam and eventually Mac had to make it work on
larger screens that normal eyes could actually use :-)

They forced the IBM camp to improve the graphics capability and IBM forced
them to deveolop graphics that would work on a large screen with the same
efficiency and now the Mac will emulate the IBM with almost as much
efficiency as an IBM and has it's own software support system out there such
that popular business programs written for the IBM platform are available in
the Mac operating system so it's a matter of preference. Since I'm not into
reproductions or graphic arts the Mac is not a necessary evil for me so the
IBM will remain my preference but my brother is a sign painter and now a
sign "tracer" so the Mac is perfect for him :-)

As you say, dollar for dollar you can get as much in the IBM platform now as
in the Mac from what I've seen but since Apple saw the light and made the
Mac capable of running IBM platform software Mac users have no reason to
switch and Mac may well live on.....:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Well, Gary, you have my sympathy. A Wintel box. Ughhh! My new
> sysrtem is a
> Macintosh G4, 450 mhz, 128 Mb RAM, 1 Mb backside cache, 27 Gb

>, it
> cost about 4 times
> what yours did, though.
>
> Kidding aside, sounds like you got a good buy. These old
> Fords are great for
> hauling home Christmas time goodies.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:56:18 +0000
From: Bryan Kirking
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Sell?

Where are you located?

At 02:24 PM 12/12/99 PST, you wrote:
> I might be selling my '66 F100 352 if anyone is interested... I really
>like the truck but i just keep having too many problems with it. Not to
>mention that every time I get one thing fixed something else breaks. So
>email me if your interested while I finish deciding.
>
>______________________________________________________
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>
>

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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 08:28:04 -0800
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Parking Brake Broke

Denny wrote:
>I dont know much about trucks but I thought it was supposed to brake,
>not break.

Well, you know how things go with old trucks... some parts brake
and other parts break.

>The parking brake on my '72, (foot-operated) broke off. That is, the
>"control assembly" broke just short of the bolt that attaches it to the
>dash, so it's now suspended from the two other bolts attached to the
>vertical wall toward the front.

Yep, that's where the one on my '71 broke. I welded it up and it's
waiting for me to reinstall it...

>I was wondering if anybody had any idea
>why this should happen.

It's old?
It takes a lot of force when you stomp tha brake on, and after 27 years
things just give up sometimes. With age the brake cables get dry and
crusty and hard to operate and then it takes a lot more force to put the
brake on then it should. That puts a lot more stress on the pedal
assembly than it likes. After a couple decades it breaks instead of brakes.

>The assembly now wants to be about an inch toward the left where it's
>broken, and if I push it back to line it up where it was, you can see
>that it's putting a strain on the bolts in front. Maybe just years and
>years of stomping on the brake with something of a leftward motion
>instead of straight-ahead bent whatever the front bolts are attached
>to?

Yep, lots of years of stomping, and possibly dry sticky brake cables.
Make sure to examine and replace or re-lube all the cables before
you fix the pedal thingy.

> Or I bent something when I hit a car a couple years ago and mashed
>in my front left headlight area?

Doubt it. I think it's just old, and like you said it gets an off-angle
stomp when you set the brake. It's just sheet metal and it gets bent
and tweaked after years of use.

>Anybody else ever have one break?

I've seen one broken there before, mine broke there, yours makes 3 that
I know of. Bet there's lots of others out there too.
I just welded mine up and straightened it a bit. Gave it a shot of paint
and some lube in all the happy spots. Gotta find time to reinstall it
soon....


Steve
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty

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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 08:41:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Chad Morris
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FMX

A 351W has the same bellhousing as a 289, as well as
the 260, 255, and 302. So your transmission should
fit nicely.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:56:42 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - timing and #1 cylinder

>>Do not feel bad, but the #1 cylinder is the forward one on the righthand side
of the vehicle. Ch*vy's #1 is on the left and the count goes across the
engine such that the odd numbers are on the left and the even ones are on
the
right. Ford starts with #1 right forward and counts back to #4, them moves
to the left front and counts back to #8. Since Ford made V8s before Ch*vy
and their count has not changed, it was GM that non standardized it.

And the old narrow Buick V8s started on the right side and crossed from side
to side. The best bet as you move from brand to brand is to either find the
markings on the intake manifold or look it up in a reliable reference book.
BTW you can time a 4 cycle V8 on the 5th cylinder in the firing order, too.
Works on inlines also. You could use the 4th cylinder in the firing order on
a straight 6. Remember, the crank turns twice for every single turn of the
cam on a 4 cycle.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 11:09:22 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer

> As you say, dollar for dollar you can get as much in the IBM
> platform now as
> in the Mac

I don't think this has ever really been debated ... I mean you always pay
more for a Mac than for a PC (equip for equip), but a lot of that is the
name, if you want as good of a PC you will pay just as much, on the other
hand there is much more support available for a PC ... always interesting to
hear people's voices when you call with a question about a mac ... this can
be good and bad

On one hand no one will claim knowledge of the MAC OS so they won't be
dinking with settings they don't really understand ...less of the "hacker"
mentality "helping" you out ... on the other hand finding someone who knows
macs can some days be a challenge ...

I am "lucky" in that I can provide (and my job position has it written in
even) support for both the Mac's and the PC's no matter which OS they happen
to be running (though we shy away from Linux for lab purposes) ... this also
lets me watch both sides of the fence pretty well, and puts me in a very
awkward position when people start "arguing" the merits of the various OS's
... in my experience use whatever you're comfortable with, each has its
strong suits and can be built to do as well or better than the other at any
one particular task ...

> from what I've seen but since Apple saw the light and made the
> Mac capable of running IBM platform software Mac users have no reason to
> switch and Mac may well live on.....:-)
>
Hahahaha ... yeah you can spend a couple hundred on a Mac software program
to "emulate" a PC or you can spend another hundred and get a "real" PC ...
:)

You wouldn't believe how handy it is in the school environment though to be
able to read PC disks on a Mac ... I also have a program to let me read Mac
disks on a PC, mostly 'cause Apple is promoting the absense of a floppy
drive ... so John must have an external one, or be "suffering" not using his
3.5" drive :)


For FTE content, I can use either to check this list, prefer the PC, but can
make the Mac run just as well ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 11:20:54 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: 429 T-Birds

> My 429 came from a 69 or early 70's (guessing) T-Bird.... It had a
> semicircular label on the original air filter housing that said "Thunder
> Jet". does yours have this also?

From the "research" I've done on the Torino 429's there were 3 available in
3 different "performance" versions ... the base was the Thunderjet which was
"only" about 350hp or so ... then was the Cobra Jet at a mere 370hp, and
finally the big daddy Super Cobra Jet with its built lower end, and a 375hp
rating ... these are likely gross numbers (as in theoretical and
unobtainable on the street), but they sounded cool (even to insurance
companies then :)

> The casting #'s on the heads are D0VE
> A2A and the casting # on the original intake (I now use a Victor 460)
> are 3-D0VE 9425 B F4. Do your #'s match mine?... just curious.

All I know about these are that they must be good, they're going to be
higher compression heads than the later ones and need hardened seats to run
on todays fuels ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 11:22:22 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - New noise coming from under truck


> tranny is a C-6. It shifts fine in all gears. The noise however is
> still there regardless of the gear I am in. The noise is like what you
> hear from a 4Whl Drive with brand new all terrain tires.

Does the noise shift with the gears, or does it build like tires would as
you accelerate ?

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 11:23:57 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 into a 65

> The Fe and 460 do not mount the same way but
> FE's mount front and rear,
> 460's mount in the center and use the tranny as the rear mount.

Uhm ... didn't this change in 64 or so, so likely he'd have the same style
mounts as us later model guys do where it mounts in the same fashion as all
the other 8's with the 2 and 1 arrangement ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 12:50:17 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix?

I thought there was a technical article on making the ammeter work for the
67-72 models....mine doesn't register anything, even though I have a new
alternator....

The only article I saw was for 73 and up....

Any ideas???

CJ
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:07:47 PST
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Cab Mounts

>From: Brett L Habben
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Cab Mounts
>Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 20:43:25 -0600
>
>Don,
>Where'd you get these? Did they have a brand or manufacturer name on
>them? Are all the various ones marketed actually the same, just reboxed?
>
>Will be needin' a pair.....
>Brett
>Super75cab

I got mine at the local auto/farm/industrial supply store.
They were "made in Taiwan" items with no brand name markings. (mine wern't
even in a box)
Probably any decent auto-body supply place could get them for you.

The catalogue he looked them up in had lots of body parts for 67-72's ($325
CDN each for front fenders.)

One thing to do before installing aftermarket sheet metal is to replace the
paint that comes on it with something that will fend off rust a bit better.


Don Jones
1970 F-250 ~Fordzilla~

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:14:18 -0800
From: "Andrion, Michael"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix?

Hi how do we post messages to the list.

Thanks,
Mike

- -----Original Message-----
From: BDIJXS aol.com [mailto:BDIJXS aol.com]
Sent: Monday, December 13, 1999 9:50 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix?


I thought there was a technical article on making the ammeter work for the
67-72 models....mine doesn't register anything, even though I have a new
alternator....

The only article I saw was for 73 and up....

Any ideas???

CJ
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 14:01:13 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Oil pickup hard to find...

>From: "Jeff Norville"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil pickup hard to find...
>
>I'm having as tough time finding the oil
>pickup (intake) assembly for my 79
>Bronco (new 400 going in).
>snip
>Buy new from manufacturer - seems Ford
>can find one and get it sent
>here in two weeks or so.... For $60.
>Insult to injury.

Yo Jeff:

You should check around w/ other dealers. I can get one in Denver from a Ford
dealer for about $42. The part number is D9TZ-6622-B. If you search on
PartsVoice (www.partsvoice.com), you might find a dealer w/ a better price.

You can also get a Melling part (don't know the number) for less than $20.

>Buy from 1980 - or non 4wd 79 trucks.
>I assume the gooseneck on the 79 4wd
>Bronco pickup is longer because it's
>reaching to the back of the pan

The 1980-up M-block part should work, as M-blocks used in all 1980-up trucks
have the rear sump oil pan. (The frames are the same on 1980-up 4x2 and 4x4
trucks, so the oil pan has to clear the same crossmember.)

>Advice on the alignment tool for the front
>seal on the timing chain cover - why can't
>I align the cover with the harmonic balancer
>installed to act as the guide? Mighty Chilton
>says get the tool...

They're probably referring to the front cover/seal procedure for the 429/460 big
block. If you're talking about the M-block front cover, all you need is a bench
vise and a couple pieces of 1x4 board. Use the vise to press the seal into the
front cover w/ the boards as cushions so it doesn't get banged up. Press the
seal in from the front side of the cover. As long as you push it in square, it
self-aligns. (You really can't push it in if it's not square.) Make sure the
lip points toward the inside (i.e., toward the engine, not the damper). Some
books recommend a little silicone sealer on the outer surface of the front seal
(where it mates w/ the front cover) for extra leak prevention.

The "spacer" is integral w/ the harmonic damper on the M-block, not a separate
piece like the big block. Make sure you clean the spacer seal surface and
remove any irregularities, but don't micro-polish it. If the damper seal
surface is grooved, you may need to sleeve it to restore it.

Good luck.

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 13:28:02 PST
From: "Mark Mcknight"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer

Great deal!!! But I've heard good things about the Celron 500 as well as
bad! I personally am an AMD boy! Cheaper, maybe not faster! but just as
reliable, A computer is a computer and will always be a computer! Yah, my
toy is junk!! AMD 166, 196mb ram, 18.2gig drive... 36 megs of overall video
mem tho.. I wish mine would make me coffee = If it gets the job done, and
your happy with it! GReAT!!!!!!

Great to hear about the comp! L8rz all!
- -Mark-
85' F-150,
78' F-100


>From: "John LaGrone"
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: "-FordTruckDigest"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gary's new computer
>Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 09:02:01 -0600
>
> >>Anyway it's a HP 6525 with 500mg Celeron, 12 gig drive, rw cdrom and 11
>meg
>of video ram. $599 for the box, keyboard and mouse. I thought that was a
>really good price. If it wasn't, DON'T TELL ME! :-(
>
>Well, Gary, you have my sympathy. A Wintel box. Ughhh! My new sysrtem is a
>Macintosh G4, 450 mhz, 128 Mb RAM, 1 Mb backside cache, 27 Gb hard drive,
>Zip, 24x DVD drive, ATI Rage video, Xclaim 128 VR video, USB, and Firewire.
>It is capable of performing at over 1 gigaflop. I haven't figured out how
>to
>get it to make coffee or take out the trash yet. Uhhh, it cost about 4
>times
>what yours did, though.
>
>Kidding aside, sounds like you got a good buy. These old Fords are great
>for
>hauling home Christmas time goodies.
>
>-- John
>jlagrone ford-trucks.com
>1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
>http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
>Dearborn iron rules!!!!
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 14:28:44 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - First 351M (400?) Rebuild

>From: "Michael White"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - First 351M (400?) Rebuild
>
>How about the piston/ring choices and
>compression ratio options? Would it be
>best to build at around 9:1?

Yo Danger:

Since 9.0:1 was the compression ratio of the original 400 M-block design in
1971, it's good enough for me. Higher altitudes will tolerate slightly higher
CR on regular pump gas.

The only 400 piston options are "destroked" 7.9-8.0:1 pistons, forged pistons w/
the OEM late model 8.4:1 ratio, and the cast 9.0:1 pistons from Ohio piston. If
you want something else, there's always the option to bush the rods and use a
351C piston. Since you can get economical 9.0:1 pistons for the 400, I wouldn't
recommend using 351C pistons anymore.

Bill Beyer has a nice list of M-block cams on his web page and Chris Samuel has
some good cam advice.

If I can help w anything else, just ask.

>From: Ballinger
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - First 351M (400?) Rebuild
>
>Another person that can help you is our
>resident M-block devotee Dave Resch. He
>wrote an excellent article that you'll find on
>the FTE site,
> ...snip...
>The 351M to 400 conversion is covered in
>his article, check it out.

Yo Bill:

Thanks for your kind words. The 351M-to-400 conversion is not really documented
specifically in the article, but (as you said) the differences are crankshaft
and pistons, and that is covered.

I have several parts lists for M-block components that I have compiled over the
last few years, and someday I hope to add them to the FTE technical article. I
first heard of the Ohio Piston 9.0:1 flat tops for the M-block 400 from Bill
Beyer, who spread the word to the FTE lists back in August. I had been looking,
with no luck, for exactly those pistons since I started my first M-block
project.

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 17:52:15 -0500
From: "Serian"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: FMX

> Will a 351W bolt to the same bell housing on a FMX as a 289?

Yes .. it should, as the 289, 302, and 351W are all of the same
engine family and have the same bellhousing pattern. If you have
a FMX but not a bellhousing for W block, give a yell ... I have an
extra off a 351W for FMX trans.

> Will the distributor swap out?

nope ... the 351 uses a larger bore hole in the block for the dist,
and thus uses a dist with a bigger "barrel".

> Anything that will swap would be helpful knowledge.

The heads should swap over no problem, but the 351W heads
(if I recall correctly) normally have larger valves, so putting 289
heads on it will constrict the engine's ability to breathe.
Most parts other than the intake manifold will bolt right on, but
the 351 may require a higher volume fuel pump than the 289.
Exhaust manifolds should bolt right up to the holes in the heads,
but they may be the wrong shape for the application ... you can try
though.





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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 19:30:12 -0600
From: Brett L Habben
Subject: FTE 61-79 - T18 countershaft dummyshaft/drift

Folks,
What are you using to drive the countershaft out of a T18? One manual I
have have says to use a brass drift 1 1/8" diameter x 9 1/2" long. Is
this the exact right size? I'm going to have to go out and buy one.
Also, how buggered up reverse/1st-2nd gears is acceptable? This pair has
seen some grinding.....
Brett
Super75cab
___________________________________________________________________
Why pay more to get Web access?
Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW!
Get your free software today: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 21:04:01 EST
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - First 351M (400?) Rebuild

In a message dated 12/13/99 4:34:12 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Dave.Resch sybase.com writes:

> The only 400 piston options are "destroked" 7.9-8.0:1 pistons, forged
pistons
> w/
> the OEM late model 8.4:1 ratio, and the cast 9.0:1 pistons from Ohio
piston.
> If
> you want something else, there's always the option to bush the rods and
use
> a
> 351C piston.

Does anyone know if a company makes a screwtype blower for the M block
engines? maybe for a 351C,,,that should fit all 3 right? seems to me with
less than 8:1 CR this would be an ideal blower motor, stock rebuild with
maybe some port work, and a blower cam that would be a killer engine,
BTW since i got the Ford truck content in already, does anyone know of a
clean 49-51 mercury for sale??? by clean i mean relatively rust
free,,,nothing fancy, doesnt have to have an engine, just frame body and
suspension would be nice,,,,if it's already chopped,,,then great,,,thanks

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 18:07:03 -0800 (PST)
From: canzus seanet.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix?

At 12:50 PM 13:12:99 EST, BDIJXS aol.com wrote:
>I thought there was a technical article on making the ammeter work for the
>67-72 models....mine doesn't register anything, even though I have a new
>alternator....
>
>The only article I saw was for 73 and up....
>
>Any ideas???

Yes, please, will the knowledgable on making these things work
say something intelligible??

Steve & the Rockette
68 F100, 390cid, FMX
63 F100, 292cid, 3speed
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600,tube frame going in.....
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
94 SHO, SWMBO's
98 Contour SVT, Mine, Mine, All Mine....

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Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 22:08:04 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Ammeter fix?

Mike queries:

> Hi how do we post messages to the list.
>
> Thanks,
> Mike

Stock Man says: You just did! If you selected digest mode when you joined
you will not see your own post on your end until you get a digest file sent
to you. If you selected Live list then you should have received a copy of
your own post. Welcome aboard! Note that I sent you a direct email copy of
this response just in case you are on the digest mode.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee....


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