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61-79-list-digest Saturday, December 11 1999 Volume 03 : Number 455



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Speaking of Manuals
RE: FTE 61-79 - Chewed out
FTE 61-79 - 460/disc brake/power steering/power brake into a 65
FTE 61-79 - New computer....:-)
RE: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts
RE: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 engine and tranny removal
FTE 61-79 - Re: 2X4 cab mounts
RE: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes
[none]
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Power steering adjustment/Pitman arm
RE: FTE 61-79 - New computer....:-)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment
FTE 61-79 - need someone to decode for me
RE: FTE 61-79 - 71 C-6 - 429 Thunderbird
Re: FTE 61-79 - need someone to decode for me
RE: FTE 61-79 - need someone to decode for me
RE: FTE 61-79 - need someone to decode for me
FTE 61-79 - OOPS!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re 400 Clutch.
RE: FTE 61-79 - 71 C-6 - 429 Thunderbird-Oppps
FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank
Re: FTE 61-79 - Electrical problem
RE: FTE 61-79 - Electrical problem
Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert
FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes
FTE 61-79 - Starter noises
Re: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes
FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts
Fwd: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts
FTE 61-79 - Oil pickup hard to find...

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 03:09:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Daniel DiMartino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Speaking of Manuals

alex,

check out the site and also browse the Hemmings
Motor News site, you can search by subject. you might find your
year manual in either of these sites. the books4cars has a
three set manual for 1968, but i was unable to get someone on
the phone (1-800 #) to see if they have it in stock. good luck!


=====
Daniel DiMartino

1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 06:42:20 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Chewed out

yeah, just fishing to see if You'd catch it :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Gary writes: >>Lest I get chewed out again for being too technical,
>
> Who... ME...... You know I was just joshing you, I hope.
>
> Azie
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 13:25:13 +0200
From: "Greg Schnakenberg"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 460/disc brake/power steering/power brake into a 65

Hello everybody,

I have just bought a 65 long styleside custom cab. it is straight, uncut,
ex "old man's" truck, but has a shot trans and almost shot 352. Sitting on
the Farm are a (1) low milage '76 T-bird and a '77 F 150. What i am
thinking to do it to swap the power disc brakes/power steering from the '77
pickup and the 460 from the 'Bird. I have several questions to ask you guys
that have done these types of swaps.

1. is the disc brake swap a bolt on, or do i need to know some tricks?
2. is that '77 booster the right one, or should i find another more suited
for the 65 firewall? (what about the T-bird booster?)
3. what about the steering box? is it a direct bolt-in or do i need to
"operate" to get it to work?
4. what about the 460 swap? are there motor mounts that will allow me to
use the FE motor supports, or do i need to get supports specifically for the
460? I know that a lot of folks have done the 460 swap, I just dont know
the "accepted" procedure.
5. what about the FE springs, are they beefy enough to hold up a 460. or is
the extra 150 or so pounds going to make my nose drag the ground?

I will appreicate any info i can get from you guys with some experience. I
live in eastern Europe, but will be home for 4 months this winter and want
to get this project done while there.

thanks, Greg

61 stepside (still cannot make myself say "flareside")
65 long styleside
several other assorted european cars with funny names and little motors


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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 07:06:04 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New computer....:-)

Took my wife shopping Thursday for her Christmas shopping and dentist visit.
I don't celebrate
but she is not able to drive or even walk by herself so I compromise to that
extent. She picks it out, I pay for it out of her share of the family
assets :-) Since we were right next door to Office Max........I just
happened to wander in and checked out the computer prices.......and came out
with a very thin credit card :-( Bought my wife a new computer so she can
really enjoy chatting now and I will be able to get to the AFTE Board
meetings on time :-) Bring on your Java! Bring on your Scrolling windows!
Bring on your heavy duty graphics! WE'RE READY FOR YA NOW BY GOLLY! Going
to give the other computer to my wife's cousin so they can talk without
costing me anything. All I need is another monitor....:-( I'll probably
have to pay their internet connection fees though :-( Actually a second
line and internet connection will be cheaper for me than our current phone
bill :-)

Anyway it's a HP 6525 with 500mg Celeron, 12 gig drive, rw cdrom and 11 meg
of video ram. $599 for the box, keyboard and mouse. I thought that was a
really good price. If it wasn't, DON'T TELL ME! :-(

Maybe I'll move the old one out to the barn so I can order on line while I
work on the bronco (FTE content :-)) When I had the phone lines moved and
buried I made sure I had both lines in my office in the barn :-) With my
new dog house finished and insulated in the barn and the computer I can
actually live out there.....:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 07:21:58 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts

This has a very complex effect on the truck in general. It can affect the
steering "response" and centering and also the fit of the doors and windows
as well as cause noticeable wobble in the body when severe enough. I have
only one collapsed mount in the front left and it causes steering alignment,
body sway, ratttles, radiator damage and the left tire rubs when it normally
would not. To me this is sufficient reason to fix the problem since I plan
to be buried with this truck or even leave it in my will to my
offspring....:-)

If you really like your truck just consider how much you would be paying for
a bank payment each month on a new, big brother handycapped truck and
consider any expense in that light and I think you will have to agree you
have a pretty cheap ride and it's exactly what you want, not what big
brother wants :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > My question: To those of you who have replaced 2x4s with
> real cab mounts,
> > was it worth the money? Why/why not? I think I could get used to the
> > slightly "wooden" feel it's got now.
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 08:34:02 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 engine and tranny removal

The only thing that limits this operation is over head clearance. Even with
my pit underneath and cross member removed and radiator removed this was
tricky in my garage due to head room. Find an old tranny yoke to seal the
tail shaft and plug the speedometer hole with a rag and you can do this
without spilling a drop of oil too :-) The cross member HAS to be out of
the way, either push it back on the frame or take it out, to do this. There
is no way it will bend far enough without breaking the tail shaft housing
without removing it....don't ask :-(

The front clip will come off with only a few bolts and if you have a helper
this may be your simplest choice if head room is a problem. 4 body mount
bolts and 8 body to clip bolts and one or two fender bolts on the bottom of
the fender and it's out of there :-) If you've ever installed and engine
with the clip off you know how enticing this idea is :-)

For installing the xfer case or tranny either one, make up some headless
bolts which thread into the particular part involved as a guide pin. For
best results you should use two pins and they need to be long enough to
engage the holes before the input shaft engages the spline so the pins
engage first for alignement and then it all slide right together with a
little twist of the output shaft. Make these up ahead of time and put them
away in your tool box as you will be using them again and again just like
your hand tools. When you accumulate the correct aids you will begine to
really enjoy these projects instead of dreading them :-) Take some long
bolts and cut the heads off and radius the end for the pins.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> i'm pulling the engine and tranny out of the ext cab 250,
> has anyone ever
> tried to pull the engine and trans (351m/c6)out as a unit? i
> unbolted the
> transfer case from the trans, but was wondering how much
> trouble it will be
> to line them back up.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 08:30:45 -0500
From: Steve Schaefer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 2X4 cab mounts

> >My question: To those of you who have replaced 2x4s with real cab mounts,
> >was it worth the money? Why/why not? I think I could get used to the
> >slightly "wooden" feel it's got now.

I just did the replacements on my F-350. It was definitly worth it. It realigned all
of the body parts, corrected a small bind in the steering. The thunks, thuds, and
other noises are gone. I have to do this on my F-250 in spring. I am a little leary
right now about driving it. I hit a bump and I can hear some real weird noises. I
have a body lift in it, so it is more prone to listing to one side. 1 more winter to
go.

Steve S.
76 F-350 Crewcab
77 F-250 Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 08:46:37 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes

this is due to the oil pump shaft not lining up with the dizzy hex. Pull
the dizzy out, move the shaft about 1/12 turn and try it again. The shaft
is radiused on the end so will find the hex even it it's not exactly lined
up. Often, if you lift the dizzy a tad, not enough to pull it out of the
cam gear but enough to get a little tap room you can tap it back in a couple
of times and it will jog the pump shaft into position for you. If this
doesn't work you need to manually move it as mentioned above. It's really
handy to have an old dizzy shaft to mess with this stuff, makes the job a
joy instead of frustration :-)

BTW, I ran into the same wiring problem in one vehicle I messed with. In 76
they changed the use of some of the pins but neglected to change the colors
of the wires so there are some mismatches between certain years when you do
this swap.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> (3) Couldn't advance the dizzy base enough because the vac
> diaphagm was
> hitting the engine (couldn't turn it anymore) so
> (4) Took out the dizzy and shifted it but now it WOULD NOT go
> back in. Still
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 08:10:10 -0600
From: "roger hughes"
Subject: [none]

>Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1999 11:36:41 -0800 (PST)
>From: rich may
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - need someone to decode for me
>
>I have a 1968 390GT. I have recently found out that
>the intake is off a '63(so I was told). I also bought
>some headers for it, and guess what....they don't
>work. The number on the heads are "C8AE-H". There are
>bolt holes over each port and under the end two, holes
>on the sides of the end two, and two in the middle of
>the flange and there are someothers that are lying
>around just for the fun of it.. The headers that I
>recently purchased were Dynomax ceramic coated for a
>65-76 352-428. Can someone please tell me what is
>wrong?? IF any of you do have these heads on any of
>your motors, what are you running for headers??
>
>Thanks
>Rich

Rich, what about the headers didn't fit? Was it a mismatch on the port
size? I have a 390 in my 76 F250 running Dynomax headers from Jegs. The
ports on my heads are small, some heads have huge ports. Header gaskets I
bought would not work because they were for the large ports. Chances are
you have the large ports for the GT engine for better breathing. The
C8AE-H, C8 designates 1968. C for the decade and 8 for the year, ie B8=58
C8=68 D8=78. Thats all I can decode from here, I need to look at my Ford HP
parts book at home for the rest. The 390 was used for a lot of years in
several different applications and configurations. You should be able to
find a good aftermarket intake for the 390. I run a Edelbrok Streetmaster
390 dual plane intake on my truck. I hope this helps some.

Roger
76 F250
55 F100
Roger Hughes
DCC
573-3557

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 09:03:25 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: Power steering adjustment/Pitman arm

For 4 wheel drive pitman arms you need a heavier version. The one I found
was more expensive but is adjustable so is pretty versatile. It's good to
know they can still be had for $20. Guess I'll have to go to autozone for
my next one :-)

I have the tie rod and also the pitman arm puller which are one piece
forgings and similar in design but the pitman arm puller will not work on a
4x4 application so I now have two pullers :-) If you have a 4x4, rent the
puller first and make sure it will fit :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> A Pitman arm puller similar to what tyou describe is sold at
> Autozone for
> under $20, with lifetime warranty. Worked like a champ on my
> 69 F-100 power
> steering.
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 08:29:07 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - New computer....:-)

> Anyway it's a HP 6525 with 500mg Celeron, 12 gig drive, rw cdrom
> and 11 meg
> of video ram. $599 for the box, keyboard and mouse. I thought that was a
> really good price. If it wasn't, DON'T TELL ME! :-(
>

Sounds like we're all gonna be in lots of trouble if you get all this up
and runnin :) (though I must confess it should be 500Mhz and I've never
seen a video card with an odd number (other than 1) of RAM on it ... )

Now you can even run those desktop dyno programs and such ... look out
world, here comes Gary's monster 460 :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish


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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 10:42:51 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment

I actually use both methods and in fact use the nut hit more than any when
in a hurry but I use an air chisel with flat punch if there is room to get
it in there straight because it has virtually no influence on other
components in the system and rarely messes up the end of the stud or damages
the nut when done carefully. The trick is to back the nut out so the
castles are just flush with the end of the lug so they protect each other
and then very carefully, keeping the punch straight, let it tap it out. If
you have a "sacrificial nut off of an old pin, use that instead and then you
can leave it up a bit to give the punch a crater to home into so it doesn't
walk on you. Other than using the proper tool, this is the least
destructive way to get them apart IMNSHO :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Gary's "whacking" method is by far much superior to the "nut
> hit" method. I
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 09:47:22 -0600
From: Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - need someone to decode for me

> I have a 1968 390GT. I have recently found out that
> the intake is off a '63(so I was told). I also bought
> some headers for it, and guess what....they don't
> work. The number on the heads are "C8AE-H". There are
> bolt holes over each port and under the end two, holes
> on the sides of the end two, and two in the middle of
> the flange and there are someothers that are lying
> around just for the fun of it.. The headers that I
> recently purchased were Dynomax ceramic coated for a
> 65-76 352-428. Can someone please tell me what is
> wrong?? IF any of you do have these heads on any of
> your motors, what are you running for headers??

The C8AE-H head is the universal 390 head, other similar castings are
the D2TE-AA, these two make up the majority of what you find on garden
variety 360/390's. They have the bolt holes AFAIK to fit any FE exhaust
manifold, or header made.

Plese tell me specifically what's not fitting.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 10:34:43 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 71 C-6 - 429 Thunderbird

What year is the Bird? Do you still have the heads?

If you can determine that the light stays on because the pedal does not
fully return take the booster off and check the linkage under there. I
think you will find that the pedal is sticking and the bellcrank linkage
needs to be cleaned and lubed. Once you do this it will restore you faith
in the beast :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> 429 was stuck,
> froze, welded - they worked on it three days - finally parted
> the car out.
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:19:04 -0500
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - need someone to decode for me

These are the higher compression heads according to Steve Christ Book. I bought
the C8AE-H heads (which were advertised as GT heads) have a smaller CC chamber
than most of the others, doesn't smaller CC mean higher C/R?? Or does the CC
value have to do with flow??

If I look at my old heads, they have a circle cut in the heads where the vavles
sit. On my C8AE-H heads that's not true, they are flat up to the point where
the vavle sit.

Boy...now I'm starting to get confused...




> I have a 1968 390GT. I have recently found out that
> the intake is off a '63(so I was told). I also bought
> some headers for it, and guess what....they don't
> work. The number on the heads are "C8AE-H". There are
> bolt holes over each port and under the end two, holes
> on the sides of the end two, and two in the middle of
> the flange and there are someothers that are lying
> around just for the fun of it.. The headers that I
> recently purchased were Dynomax ceramic coated for a
> 65-76 352-428. Can someone please tell me what is
> wrong?? IF any of you do have these heads on any of
> your motors, what are you running for headers??

The C8AE-H head is the universal 390 head, other similar castings are
the D2TE-AA, these two make up the majority of what you find on garden
variety 360/390's. They have the bolt holes AFAIK to fit any FE exhaust
manifold, or header made.

Plese tell me specifically what's not fitting.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 10:34:56 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - need someone to decode for me

> I bought
> the C8AE-H heads (which were advertised as GT heads) have a
> smaller CC chamber
> than most of the others, doesn't smaller CC mean higher C/R??

Yes, assuming everything else equal...


> Or
> does the CC
> value have to do with flow??
>
The combustion chamber flow is also affected, but it is more for the CR when
they advertise volume ... design has more to do with flow than the volume
does.

> If I look at my old heads, they have a circle cut in the heads
> where the vavles
> sit. On my C8AE-H heads that's not true, they are flat up to the
> point where
> the vavle sit.
>

They're the GT/high compression heads then ... and the bolt pattern you
described also supports this ... if you've got Steve Christ's book, you've
likely got all the information in front of you ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 11:42:39 -0500
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - need someone to decode for me

Thanks WISH,

I was getting a little concerned that I may be reading the values the wrong way.
I have a habit of doing that sometimes.


- -Ted

BTW- We have an office in Ames. It used to be on the University, but have since
moved in town a little ways. Ames is a nice place.



> I bought
> the C8AE-H heads (which were advertised as GT heads) have a
> smaller CC chamber
> than most of the others, doesn't smaller CC mean higher C/R??

Yes, assuming everything else equal...


> Or
> does the CC
> value have to do with flow??
>
The combustion chamber flow is also affected, but it is more for the CR when
they advertise volume ... design has more to do with flow than the volume
does.

> If I look at my old heads, they have a circle cut in the heads
> where the vavles
> sit. On my C8AE-H heads that's not true, they are flat up to the
> point where
> the vavle sit.
>

They're the GT/high compression heads then ... and the bolt pattern you
described also supports this ... if you've got Steve Christ's book, you've
likely got all the information in front of you ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 10:55:25 -0600
From: Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - OOPS!

> I said: "is this tranny be the "wide" ratio" Sorry about that - this
> Southern Missouri Redneck has been in the Navy, specifically - in Chicago
> tooo l o n g.
> Jeffery A. Hansen, HMC(SW/AW/FMF) USN
> Independent Duty Hospital Corpsman

Where in Southern Missouri are you from? I grew up in Springfield, MO
and live now in Sikeston, MO in the flat land on other corner.
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Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 12:04:38 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re 400 Clutch.

My only concern with Champions was with motorcycles where they fouled in a
matter of minutes and on one occasion I bought a set for a v8 and 2 of them
were dead. I never had a failure with NGK and have just begun to use
Autolite again so we'll see how that goes :-) There certainly is a
difference in the strategy behind the design from brand to brand. I would
like to support our local economy by using American made stuff but if it
doesn't work.........:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Of course... I have never had a Champion Plug reliability
> issue in the last
> two+ decades!-)
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 12:28:16 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 71 C-6 - 429 Thunderbird-Oppps

Just realized the tbird is a 71.....says so right in the subject and I
looked too.... :-) 71's should be the good ones :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> What year is the Bird? Do you still have the heads?
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 13:05:22 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank

>>Anyone know where I can get this? It's the hose about 3/4 inch dia
running from tank to filler tube. Is this hose made a of a special
material?

Ox, You probably can't get the original piece, but you should be able to
find the right size in bulk sold by the foot. You may need to build some
elbows out of some electrical conduit the correct size. Use stainless steel
hose clamps to complete the project. If you need to replace the filler tube,
use exhaust pipe to make the elbows. It cost me $2 to have a piece bent at
the correct angle.

>>I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow in it sometimes,
that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into account so gas line
is a good choice. Sometimes it's a trick to get it routed so it doesn't
kink though :-( Vac line might be easier to work with but not sure if it
will stand up to constant exposure to gas and it will kink much easier as
well.

Gas line is correct. Do not use vacuum line nor heater hose. It will
deteriorate quite rapidly in this application.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 13:26:22 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Electrical problem

My bet is the alternator. Have you checked it's output voltage?

Matthew Schwartz wrote:

> I have a great electrical problem. Symptoms include a battery that will
> drainin a few days if the truck is not run. Other symptoms include extremely
> dim interior lights and headlights when running or not. Another symptom may
> be more important for diagnosis. The dash lights, at times, will flash and
> both dash blinker indicators will stay on solid...then everything will go
> off...then normal...then back to the lights dimming... with the exception of
> the blinker indicators which stay on bright.
>
> Before I start tracing current through wires with an ammeter, has anyone
> found a culprit to these symptoms?
>
> I know.....start tracing wires :
>
> Matt
>
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- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 12:36:17 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Electrical problem

Let's see, a "great electrical problem". Didn't know thoses existed. ;0)
It should be easy enough to know when it is fixed. You should be able to
disconnect a battery cable and connect an ammeter between it and the
battery. With the condition you describe you should now see a current
flowing with everything else off. Obviously this is incorrect and part of
your problem. When you get it fixed you should read zero current at the
same location.

What you describe sounds like more than one problem. The battery draining
sounds like a current draw. Something staying on. The other things sound
like a bad ground. Probably a corroded connection. I would try removing
all of the fuses from the fuse panel and then check battery drain. If the
battery drain reads zero then the draw is in one of the circuits protected
by a fuse. Put one fuse at a time back in and check battery drain. This
way you can isolate the circuit draining your battery.

The faulty ground may be tougher. Check the lamp sockets for corrosion.
Another thing you could do is check resistance from the ground side of any
socket or circuit straight back to the NEG battery terminal.

Good luck

Tom H

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Schwartz [mailto:mschwartz fast.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 1999 7:34 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Electrical problem


I have a great electrical problem. Symptoms include a battery that will
drainin a few days if the truck is not run. Other symptoms include extremely
dim interior lights and headlights when running or not. Another symptom may
be more important for diagnosis. The dash lights, at times, will flash and
both dash blinker indicators will stay on solid...then everything will go
off...then normal...then back to the lights dimming... with the exception of
the blinker indicators which stay on bright.

Before I start tracing current through wires with an ammeter, has anyone
found a culprit to these symptoms?

I know.....start tracing wires :

Matt

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:49:57 EST
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert

In a message dated 12/09/1999 11:43:51 PM !!!First Boot!!!, IanBoss69 aol.com
writes:


deeper and wider so now i can accually fit stuff in there. >>

Hmm....would ya be willin to make on for a gal who REALLY needs it? =) Just
tell me how much.....

*~*~Lisa and Emvy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:20:10 PST
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes

Some responses to your responses:
>I usually put the dist down as far as it will go with the
>dist cap off, install the rotor button and while exerting downward >force
>on the dist with the naked hand, bump the starter - several >bumps may be
>necessary, but it always worked for me.

Well, we did pretty much the same thing, except I turned the flywheel with a
wrench while Dad pushed and wiggled the dizzy. Still, I'll try your way next
time Azie ...

>Rather than try to reposition the dizzy again we decided ... to >just
>switch the spark plug wires on the cap...

Steve writes:
>As I hate to sound like a smart a$$, Why didn't you do this to begin
> >with??

The answer to that is that we didn't know it was going to be such a bear and
we originally wanted to do the job right (dizzy on the right tooth). The
second time around, though, we would have put it in with duct tape just to
hear the engine running again. We'd been at it for 4 days!

>This is the reason the "next guy" can never assume while changing his
>wires that the No.1 plug wire automatically gets stuck into the hole >next
>to the little "1" molded into the distributor cap!

The "next guy" will be me -- that's why I painted a new Number 1 on the cap.
Like you, Stock Man, I hate changing the original setup if at all avoidable.

>Sorry to hear about your "issues" with the conversion

Ol' Wish is always there with a kind word and a helping hand! And thanks to
all who responded.

Texican Teacher
70 F100, 300 I-6

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 20:21:31 -0500
From: "james burnette"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Starter noises

The starter on my 71 F100 is making a whining noise while cranking and for
a few seconds after the starter switch has been released. Sounds like a
cheap electric drill. Although it works good it probably won't last long.
I've never heard a starter make this particular noise before. Just out of
curiosity, any of you technical types know what could be wrong with this 1
year old starter.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 20:30:51 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes

In a message dated 12/10/99 8:24:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
genegow hotmail.com writes:

> >This is the reason the "next guy" can never assume while changing his
> >wires that the No.1 plug wire automatically gets stuck into the hole
>next
> >to the little "1" molded into the distributor cap!
>
> The "next guy" will be me -- that's why I painted a new Number 1 on the
cap.
>
> Like you, Stock Man, I hate changing the original setup if at all
avoidable.

Amen! I was beginning to think I walked in solitude.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:42:25 PST
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts

>If you are not too picky, the "aftermarket style" cab mounts go over >the
>old mounts and entomb the whole mess. You can bolt them in, too, >without
>taking the cab off the frame.

I'll defer to the list again: anybody have any negative input about bolting
new mounts over the old? I really like fixing things right the first time
but this is not a resto project (not supposed to be, anyway). Translated,
I'm looking for the best combination of safety, mechanical function and
cost. I know it's a judgment call I've got to make myself, but I could use
some more info from the guys that have already dealt with this. Seems to be
a pretty common problem.

Regarding cost -- new original-quality mounts from Dennis C. run about $160
for both. If I do it right, I should weld them in which would require a new
floor panel (another $150 if I recall). I haven't had the guts to get a
price from my shadetree welding man yet but I'm sure it'll be at least
$2-300 ($750 sounds awfully high, Doss, but you could be right).

So, Doss, I'm definitely interested in buying your aftermarket mounts but
give me a couple of days to talk to my man about total price and quality
issues. Otherwise, your do-it-yourself plan sounds pretty good to me,
assuming the rest of the list gives us the Good Housekeeping Seal of
Approval ... fellas?

Texican Teacher
70 F100, 300 I-6

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 19:10:55 PST
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts

>From: "gene gardner"
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts
>Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:42:25 PST
>
>>If you are not too picky, the "aftermarket style" cab mounts go over >the
>>old mounts and entomb the whole mess. You can bolt them in, too, >without
>>taking the cab off the frame.

>

>assuming the rest of the list gives us the Good Housekeeping Seal of
>Approval ... fellas?
>
Go For it!!.. I bolted on one mount in my '70 f-250 in about two hours. I
used a floor jack, some jackstands and a few pieces of 4x4 to support the
cab while i was working on it. The mounts i got were said to fit 1967-86
f-series trucks. They extend well back under the floor and have lots of room
to drill and bolt. My cost for the front mounts was about $32 canadian
each. Its not concours, but it gives you a servicable repair.


Don Jones
1970 F-250 4x4 ~Fordzilla~

______________________________________________________....


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