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From: owner-61-79-list-digest
 ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest) To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #452 Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Sender: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Errors-To: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com Precedence: bulk 61-79-list-digest Thursday, December 9 1999 Volume 03 : Number 452 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: majordomo ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list-digest" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: RE: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands FTE 61-79 - Re: Original wheels and radials Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Original wheels and radials Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank [none] FTE 61-79 - Split Rims Re: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands FTE 61-79 - aligning steering box etc FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop) RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop) FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands RE: FTE 61-79 - 4.6 in an 85 Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert RE: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert FTE 61-79 - Silicon spray Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop) Re: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank RE: FTE 61-79 - Silicon spray RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment Re: FTE 61-79 - IGNITION SWITCH Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment FTE 61-79 - Speaking of Manuals Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert FTE 61-79 - Simplicity FTE 61-79 - Split rims FTE 61-79 - Temperature Sending unit FTE 61-79 - 4x4 engine and tranny removal Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: ALL NEW SERVICES ON THE FTE WEB SITE FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New server Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New events guide FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts Re: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes Re: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert FTE 61-79 - New clutch for 400 - ideas? ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 07:08:58 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials Thank you! I was just going to jump on this myself. A split ring setup has to be clean to allow the best interface since the bearing area is relatively small and radiused but they can not come out if they are in there correctly in the first place. If you make sure the bead is actually over the edge of the ring like it's supposed to be it is physically impossible for it to come out unless you have a broken bead wire. The problems I've seen with them is an inept installer who didn't check for proper seating before inflating. We didn't have cages and the rims we worked on were not single, split rings, they were the truck rims with the split ring outside which retained an inner bead ring which had to be properly seated in the bead before trying to inflate it and the outer ring had to be fully in it's groove or it would definitely come out. I never even had a close call and our rims were spot painted and rusty and cleaned and spot painted over and over again. I did see the results of an accident but the fool set the tire up against a bench on it's tread and squatted down in front of it to inflate it. When the ring came off we heard it in the next bay with 50' of pavement between bays. We all knew instinctively what the noise was without ever actually having seen it ourselves and went over to see a man lying on his back in a pool of blood with his skull split open. He was very lucky because his shins (protected by combat boots) caught a large part of the blow and all he got was a bad head ache and a few stitches but it did knock him out for several minutes. I always checked and double checked them and then turned them over on the ring side and sat in the center while inlfating them and never once had one come off, either installing it or driving on them. Never had one come off my brother's 68 F-250 either with the 16.5 split rim setup. Yes they can be dangerous if you are not meticulous about cleaning them and seating the ring before inflating but it would take an awful lot of rust to make them come off if all precautions I stated were applied and if you use a little common sense when inflating them as to your position relative to the ring etc. you should never shed a tear over it :-) BTW, our rings were pretty beat up since all we had to disassemble them was a "tanker" bar and large sledge hammer. The rings and bead rings got lots of nicks and burrs in them and still never came off. As I recall the 16.5 had a single split bead ring which had a lip which fit under the bead when properly installed. If you make sure the bead is all the way on this ring and evenly seated all the way around before inflating there is no way it can come off either but you can't just pop the air to it and let 'er fly, you have to give it a little air and tap the ring with a dead blow hammer to seat it as it inflates untill you have full seating all the way around, both the metal ring to the rim and the tire bead to the ring before finishing the inflation and even then you should keep your body and arms out of the way as a precaution. It's been many years since I actually worked on any of these but this is what I can recall from my experience. Like many of these rims, I'm a little rusty :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > Don, as a service station employee of many years, and an > owner of split > rims for several years, I feel qualified to answer this question. > I wouldn't be afraid to drive anywhere with properly seated > split rims. > If you follow proper procedures while working on them, you > minimize your > probabilities of being injured. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 08:21:04 -0500 From: Marvin Meyer Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands I build several engine stands for guy's at work etc. I use 2" 1/8th wall tubing, 2" solid for the shaft that goes thru the 5/8ths plate (8" X 8") 1" solid square tubing for mounting arms and 1" solid round drilled for 5/8" bolts. Wheels are Colsen 2" X 4" wheels good for 250# each. It's a universal design that will fit Small and Big Blocks all makes. With a 460 on I can jump up and down on the valve covers. Never tried a 7.3 yet. meyer strat.net == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 08:32:02 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank Anyone know where I can get this? It's the hose about 3/4 inch dia running from tank to filler tube. Is this hose made a of a special material? Thanks OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 08:57:28 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow in it sometimes, that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into account so gas line is a good choice. Sometimes it's a trick to get it routed so it doesn't kink though :-( Vac line might be easier to work with but not sure if it will stand up to constant exposure to gas and it will kink much easier as well. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > Anyone know where I can get this? It's the hose about 3/4 inch dia > running from tank to filler tube. Is this hose made a of a special > material? > > Thanks > > OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:07:39 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands The 2" solid is certainly not going to break but the bronco hub I used is a little suspect since it was not intended to handle that kind of load with that leverage but it has worked well so far. The danger with this setup is that if it breaks there will be no warning, it will simply break and crash to the floor, instantly. Just to be safe I'm carefull not to jump up and down on the valve covers :-) I made a solid plate from the spacer plate as a template to mount the engine to using stand offs made of 3/4" pipe and long bolts which fit the tapped holes in the engine block. With longer stand offs I can even keep the flywheel installed if I need to and even have a tranny clone to mount the starter to if I want, all built into the backing plate. My stand is only made for the big blocks right now but all I need to do is drill new holes for the small block since the plate is larger than the small block already. I centered the hub to the flywheel location in the block but discovered later that it was not quite balnace in that location but still usable. I may move it some day but it's not a priority right now :-) The reason I did it this way is the movable extensions on other stands just looked to flimsey and I thought I might also want to make a run stand out of it some day as well, maybe when I retire :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > I build several engine stands for guy's at work etc. I use > 2" 1/8th wall > tubing, 2" solid for the shaft that goes thru the 5/8ths > plate (8" X 8") == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:15:31 EST From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands In a message dated 12/8/99 9:09:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, gpeters3 visteon.com writes: > I made a solid plate from the spacer plate as a template to mount the engine > to using stand offs made of 3/4" pipe and long bolts I'd recommend solid steel drilled for the actual bolt diameter for making the stand-offs (or at the least welding pipe which has a more thicker wall than ordinary plumbing pipe). Without this support there is nothing to prevent long bolts from bending. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 06:12:38 -0800 From: "Scott Jensen" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Original wheels and radials on?>> I've seen alot of good responses, so I thought I'd throw in my .02. I haven't had to deal with split rims since I was a kid. I was always told, "safety first," so I don't deal with them anymore..:) Anyway, make sure you have a lever lock attachment. Lock your air nozzle on the stem, then don't stand in front of the wheel till you hear the pop. (I always had a hard time EVER standing in front of those wheels!) Once seated and on the truck, make sure you don't stand in front of the wheel when you lower the jack. I remember some of the farms having cages made out of expanded metal just for the purpose of inflating tractor tires. I locked my little brother in one once, I attribute that to all the Jap trucks he buys, and expects me to make run. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:33:53 EST From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Original wheels and radials In a message dated 12/8/99 9:30:35 AM Eastern Standard Time, sjensensr worldnet.att.net writes: > (I always had a > hard time EVER standing in front of those wheels!) I'm with you Scott! I still get skiddish just thinking about it. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 09:39:12 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote: > > I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow in it sometimes, > that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into account so gas line > is a good choice. Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same hose?? OX == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 08:54:23 -0600 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank > Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same > hose?? > hahahaha ... that could be an issue ... I used heater hose many years ago and haven't had any problems (the orange stuff) ... it actually cleared up my problem of a clogged vent ... Looking at how those vent tubes run (nearly flat), you might consider cutting the steel portion of the tube a bit higher up and putting the hose on there to be sure you get a downhill run that won't hold fuel ... I never managed that, but it was a thought we had ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 09:09:03 -0600 From: Larry Schmiedekamp Subject: [none] Don Jones wrote: > Are split rims dangerous to drive on or are they just dangerous to work on? > Food for thought. Since the topic of split rims is up another thought passes through my mind. You guys getting truck from farmers and ranchers check the air in the tires. Its been a practice to use propane to air up tires around farms and ranches. We had a young man get killed here while doing some work with a cutting torch on a rim. It blew up due to the propane. What a waste. Later Larry == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 07:03:07 -0800 (PST) From: Bill Ballinger Subject: FTE 61-79 - Split Rims >I have a pair of split rims on my truck with 7.50-17 >10 ply tires on >them, >tubes and running 50psi. I have a pair of 17 inch >conventional rims >waiting to be cleaned up and painted. (one of those >things i have been >putting off) >Are split rims dangerous to drive on or are they just >dangerous to >work on? The worst to work on, but when they get old they can also be dangerous to drive. As long as you keep 10 ply rubber on it and as they are 17's (17.5's?) and you don't run over 60-65 mph you should be all right. But if it were myself, I clean those other wheels up and put some of these modern radials on. They ride soo much better. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 07:16:39 -0800 From: Dennis Pearson Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials Thanks for your message at 08:26 PM 12/7/99 -0800, canzus seanet.com. Your message was: >At 07:03 PM 7:12:99 PST, Don Jones wrote: > >>Are split rims dangerous to drive on or are they just dangerous to work on? >> > > In my opinion, both. > > I don't like them, never have liked them, never will like them. >The problem comes along when the seat for the removable section >starts to rust, and you cant get the section to seat correctly. It will >appear to seat right, but as soon as you put some pressure in the tire >it'll blow the rim off. Bad things happen to good people, no matter >how careful they are. Don't be one of these people, you're life is >worth more than a new set of steel rims..... I can't help relating my memories of being 17, working at Harold Ruby's Signal Station in Issaquah, WA. He would take any job, including large truck split rims. Being the new kid, I was the lucky one who got to break down, repair and put back together any split rim flats that came in--no cage no safety devices whatsoever. Just dumb luck I was never decapitated. As a result, though I developed a healthy hatred of any split rims and would not even have them on any vehicle of mine... Oh yeah, Harold liked to clean his lube room floors with either gasoline or battery acid, depending on how clean he wanted them. I sure went through work shoes... Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA 1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C 1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed 1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood) I shortened this to only FT's http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:34:29 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands Soon as I get my lathe.......:-) Theoretically, as long as the pipe does not collapse, the bolts are in tension, not shear although there obviously is a shear force involved so bending should not be an issue but collapsing of the pipe certainly could be. So far I have seen no tendency for them to do so but it's always something to keep an eye on for sure :-) The bolts that hold the flaps on a normal stand are under a lot more stress due to the leverage imposed by the length of the arms and are much more likely to bend or snap which is why I opted to do it the way I did. If they were secured by two bolts spaced apart in an elongated hole or slot it would amount to the same as a solid plate but most that I've seen are secured by one bolt at the very end of the arm which is a very weak link. You have to rely on the strength of the bolt and the arm in that case and calculate the leverage factor the arm imposes on it. I much prefer a tension setup with grade 8 bolts for this myself :-) I know they work that way since virtually all commercial stands are made that way but I still didn't like the idea of hanging 1000# of iron off that kind of setup. The movable arm setup will adapt to any engine which is why they use it but...... - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > than ordinary plumbing pipe). Without this support there is > nothing to > prevent long bolts from bending. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 09:56:20 -0600 From: "John LaGrone" Subject: FTE 61-79 - aligning steering box etc >>One of the jobs of a good alignment man is to ensure that the steering wheel is centered when he is done but he is supposed to do the steps I mentioned to accomplish that. If it does not line up when the box is centered then there is more work to be done. Some part of the linkage, suspension, body mounts etc. is not correct and needs to be addressed. Absolutely correct, Gary, as was all of your post. I think my point was supposed to be that if the previous owner has been playing Mr. Fixit without a clue or MR. Drive It Til It Drops, there is a good chance that more than the steering box will be goofed up. I was not disagreeing with any of your procedure. I have had several vehicles taken in for alignment only to receive them back with the steering wheel off center. One guy proceeded to pull the steering wheel and center it. Then when I turned the wheel slightly left, the turn signals would cancel and it was 3/4 of a turn less to one lock than the other. The front inkage was all goofed up. Many $$$ later and after much frustration, I got it all straightened out. - -- John jlagrone ford-trucks.com 1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry) http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm Dearborn iron rules!!!! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 08:56:22 -0700 From: "Richard Currit" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop) >You can make a positive stop from an old spark >lug by breaking out the porcelain and tapping it for >a long bolt. I made both 18mm and 14mm >versions. Now the way I've always done this on M*Pars, for changing dampeners, is to take about a 4 foot length of nylon rope and tie a big knot on one end. Bring the engine around so that #1 cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke (valves are then closed and won't interfere), and stick a bunch of the rope through the spark plug hole. Has worked fine every time I've done it. Not applicable for finding TDC. High Plains Richard '72 F-100, 300 l6 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:36:06 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank I think Auto Zone has it in all manner of sizes including 3/4 but can't say for sure. I've bought it so they must have it :-) Been a while so don't know where I got it. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > > I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow > in it sometimes, > > that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into > account so gas line > > is a good choice. > > Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same > hose?? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 08:07:32 -0800 From: "Hogan, Tom" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop) Also works well for replacing the valve stem seals with the heads on the motor. Prevents the valves from dropping into the motor when the keeper is removed. Tom H - -----Original Message----- From: Richard Currit [mailto:RCURRI state.wy.us] Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:56 AM To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop) >You can make a positive stop from an old spark >lug by breaking out the porcelain and tapping it for >a long bolt. I made both 18mm and 14mm >versions. Now the way I've always done this on M*Pars, for changing dampeners, is to take about a 4 foot length of nylon rope and tie a big knot on one end. Bring the engine around so that #1 cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke (valves are then closed and won't interfere), and stick a bunch of the rope through the spark plug hole. Has worked fine every time I've done it. Not applicable for finding TDC. High Plains Richard '72 F-100, 300 l6 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:11:25 EST From: NTesla333 aol.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert I have found a plastic moulding company, that makes plastic glove box insert replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard glove box is disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other folks interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response, I may be able to get this company to custom mold these inserts. Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several years?? What years and what models? Please to help. Robert Bowen == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:13:36 EST From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands In a message dated 12/8/99 10:49:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, gpeters3 visteon.com writes: > I know they work that way since virtually all commercial stands are made > that way but I still didn't like the idea of hanging 1000# of iron off that > kind of setup. The movable arm setup will adapt to any engine which is why > they use it but...... I hear you and your comments are all well received on this issue. The chance of the pipe collapsing is an outside one as long as the bolts are all tight and you weren't bouncing the engine around on the stand while you work. In my case, I opted to mount the 6 cylinder on the side as the Ford shop manual illustrates. I felt much more comfortable with the weight load being distributed much closer to the mount plate. My site shows a pic of it on the stand. The thought of getting hurt while we were working on it never occurred to me, but I couldn't help thinking that my baby might fall on the floor and break something! Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:25:29 -0600 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 4.6 in an 85 > Duh duh daaaaa!!! I found a bellhousing... the 4.6 in the ole, 85 > worked... > cept I had to weld up some weird motor mounts, but, now the > intake sticks up > in the hood )= o wellerz, Any suggestions on what kinda hood > would be good? > or anything, as I have no hood =) You guys have been great, I've learned > sooo much! Thank ya'll!! > Huh ... neat trick ? Did I miss something on this, as I don't remember it comin up before ... so you put a turboed 4.6L in an 85 pickup ? :) Cooooollll.... :) What intake system are you using ? The 'stangs have a considerably lower hood than the trucks, maybe you could use one of their upper intakes to get the clearance where you need it ... another possibility is an aftermarket hood, or a fiberglass scoop to cut underneath of ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 09:38:34 -0700 From: William Whited Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert It would be great to get plastic instead I hate those cardboard things. NTesla333 aol.com wrote: > I have found a plastic moulding company, that makes plastic glove box insert > replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making > replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard glove box is > disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other folks > interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response, I may be > able to get this company to custom mold these inserts. > Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several years?? > What years and what models? Please to help. > > Robert Bowen > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:47:29 -0800 From: nukegm ford-trucks.com Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert - --- Original Message --- NTesla333 aol.com Wrote on Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:11:25 EST ------------------ I have found a plastic moulding company, that makes plastic glove box insert replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard glove box is disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other folks interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response, I may be able to get this company to custom mold these inserts. Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several years?? What years and what models? Please to help. Robert, Dennis Carpenter's already carries a full line of replacement gloveboxe liners.....so do many many other obsolete dealers. They are the original cardboard style and not made of plastic. Plastic ones would be awesome for those who will actually use one. I am unsure about the differences between years.......sorry. Stu Nuke GM! Robert Bowen == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html - ----- Sent using MailStart.com ( http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://MailStart.Com/welcome.html ) The FREE way to access your mailbox via any web browser, anywhere! == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 13:14:56 +0000 From: "Eric" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Silicon spray Gary, Check the side of the can.... Prolly has Propane for its propelant..... sometimes used instead of those hydrocarbons. Eric 'Stitch' > From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" > I didn't > think there was anything in silicone spray for it to burn??? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:32:33 -0800 (PST) From: Daniel DiMartino Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals mike, i have a new autokrafters catalog and they have the three volume set for 1966 for $69.95. check them out! ===== Daniel DiMartino 1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:36:13 -0800 (PST) From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank Ox wondered: > Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote: > > > > I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow in it sometimes, > > that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into account so gas line > > is a good choice. > > Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same > hose?? NAPA, or if that fails, a boat shop. Boats use really long fill and vent hoses - which reminds me, I need to check mine out this winter :-) - -- Pat Brown Sebastopol, California == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 12:45:51 -0600 From: David.R.John deluxe.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment Gary wrote: >>The sector shaft "Hangs" from the "T" bolt adjuster screw in the top of the >>steering box in a modern, recirculating ball, sector type power steering >>box, is right hand threaded and has a jam nut to secure it. To ensure >>proper operation certain things have to be setup before you can make this >>adjustment: >>1..Remove the drag link from the pitman arm (with a proper tool, not a >>tuning fork). Gary, What is the proper tool for this?? Is there a suggested technique for those of us who do not have a large array of "proper" tools? Thanks, David John == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:46:33 -0600 From: "Freewheel" Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands where are you at and could I get one of these. :) I am tired of those wimpy commercial stands. Larry - ----- Original Message ----- From: Marvin Meyer To: Ford Truck list post (E-mail) Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:21 AM Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands > I build several engine stands for guy's at work etc. I use 2" 1/8th wall > tubing, 2" solid for the shaft that goes thru the 5/8ths plate (8" X 8") > 1" solid square tubing for mounting arms and 1" solid round drilled for > 5/8" bolts. > Wheels are Colsen 2" X 4" wheels good for 250# each. > It's a universal design that will fit Small and Big Blocks all makes. > With a 460 on I can jump up and down on the valve covers. > Never tried a 7.3 yet. > > meyer strat.net > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:50:02 -0800 (PST) From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop) Tom and Richard wrote: > Also works well for replacing the valve stem seals with the heads on the > motor. Prevents the valves from dropping into the motor when the keeper is > removed. > > Tom H > > Now the way I've always done this on M*Pars, for changing dampeners, is > to take about a 4 foot length of nylon rope and tie a big knot on one > end. Bring the engine around so that #1 cylinder is coming up on the > compression stroke (valves are then closed and won't interfere), and > stick a bunch of the rope through the spark plug hole. Has worked fine > every time I've done it. Not applicable for finding TDC. > > High Plains Richard And, I'll add a plug for the tech articles so Ken won't have to - Steve Delanty wrote up an article on the rope trick, which can be found in the tech article section, or go directly to: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/tools/valvesproings.htm - -- Pat Brown Sebastopol, California == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:01:09 -0800 (PST) From: Pat Brown Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials Dennis remembers: > I can't help relating my memories of being 17, working at Harold Ruby's > Signal Station in Issaquah, WA. He would take any job, including large > truck split rims. Being the new kid, I was the lucky one who got to break > down, repair and put back together any split rim flats that came in--no > cage no safety devices whatsoever. Just dumb luck I was never > decapitated. As a result, though I developed a healthy hatred of any split > rims and would not even have them on any vehicle of mine... > > Oh yeah, Harold liked to clean his lube room floors with either gasoline or > battery acid, depending on how clean he wanted them. I sure went through > work shoes... I too have a healthy (dis)respect for split rims, for similar reasons. But, my boss wouldn't let anyone but himself touch them. After beating on a wheel for what seemed forever to me (large hammer and a chisel- like tool), he would put them under the lift (in-ground center post hydraulic lift), and drop that lift right on top of the assembly before inflating. I would go hide in the office or behind a metal cabinet :-) - -- Pat Brown Sebastopol, California == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 13:46:55 -0600 From: Craig Cantrell Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank Napa should have it. That's where I got my filler hose and they had quite a selection. "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote: > I think Auto Zone has it in all manner of sizes including 3/4 but can't say > for sure. I've bought it so they must have it :-) Been a while so don't > know where I got it. > > -- > Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, > 78 Bronco Loving, Gary > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 > -- > > > > I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow > > in it sometimes, > > > that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into > > account so gas line > > > is a good choice. > > > > Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same > > hose?? - -- Craig - -- 1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149 "Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle South Central Kansas Mustang Club See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:44:03 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Silicon spray I'll have to remember that! I once slammed the hood on a can of hot shot....fortunately the engine wasn't running! :-) Filled the whole area with the stuff in a matter of seconds. I'll be more careful with the silicon from now on :-) - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > Gary, > > Check the side of the can.... Prolly has Propane for its > propelant..... sometimes used instead of those hydrocarbons. > > Eric 'Stitch' == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:56:16 -0500 From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment OGP or what ever it is makes a neat puller that uses a bolt to push the tapered pin out of the pitman arm and works on all the other tie rod ends as well. My first one cost $20 but due to warrantees and lifetime guarantees the last one I had replaced was listed as $80 :-( I got mine free but a new one costs $80 now. This is the only way to get it off if you plan to reuse it. Tuning forks break the internal parts in the ball joint so the tie rod end is damaged and should not be reused. They are fine for removing one you plan to throw away. Lest I get chewed out again for being too technical, there is a way to do it with a hammer, a pry bar and some luck :-) You first get the linkage in a position where you can apply some pressure to separate the two parts while having access to the side of the link in which the tapered pin is inserted. Loosen the nut but don't take it all the way off, pry between the two links or arms and whack the side of this link with a hammer. This upsets the seal of the male taper to the femal taper and it will pop out but be carefull not to whack on it so hard or in a direction that it will damage some other component which may be attached like the other ball joint on the other end or whatever. Just use a little common sense there :-) It usually takes a pretty fair whack to do it in my experience. - -- Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167 - -- > >>1..Remove the drag link from the pitman arm (with a proper > tool, not a > >>tuning fork). > > Gary, > > What is the proper tool for this?? Is there a suggested technique for > those of us who do not have a large array of "proper" tools? == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 15:09:31 -0500 From: kpayne ford-trucks.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals On the web site in the online store. We have over 300 books, manuals, and decals. Ken Payne Admin Mikerenf aol.com wrote: > > where can you get a manual for a "66" f-100 truck?? > > thanks mike r > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:15:15 -0600 From: "William S. Hart" Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment I've been skimming this particular thread, and now you've gotten to removing approaches ... sometimes they are a real pain, but on disassembling a front axle in my garage I found that if you put the nut flush with the top of the stud sticking through and soak it for a couple minutes in penetrating oil, a good whack with a heavy hammer will work great ... I think I had to hit one of htem twice, but never hit it more than that wihtout putting a wrench on the bolt to be sure you haven't messed the threads up ... I feel I got really lucky, but have had it work several times in a row, including the front end of a 'stang or two ... scarey but true ... Just my $.02 wish 96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L 73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 15:24:24 EST From: Bad4dFilly aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - IGNITION SWITCH In a message dated 12/06/1999 3:06:53 PM !!!First Boot!!!, rhughes norman.k12.ok.us writes: leaving work and the starter did not disengage. I turned off the ignition switch but it was still cranking. I quickly ran around to the front of the truck, popped the hood and and unscrewed the battery disconnect. That stopped/saved the starter. >> Hey there! Do ya mean once the engine turned over the starter continued to "start" and didn't shut off immediately after the engine starts? If so, this happened to me once and scared the hell outta me. ACtually my boyfriend was dtartin my truck up. He then turned the key to the "off" position and the truck continued to run, making a grinding sound. I don't know how but somehow we got it turmed off about 15 seconds later. Is this the same problem you have? *~*~Lisa and Envy~*~* *~*~Silly boys...trucks are for girls!~*~* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 15:25:31 EST From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment In a message dated 12/8/99 3:18:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, wish iastate.edu writes: > I've been skimming this particular thread, and now you've gotten to removing > approaches ... Gary's "whacking" method is by far much superior to the "nut hit" method. I think this passes the filters right? (I know this is a family show). It's nice to know that there is a more technical approach which involves the correct tool (thanks Gary) Tool etiquette is one more benefit of the lists experience! Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:17:21 -0600 From: "Alex Beshirs" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Speaking of Manuals I am trying to locate a set of manuals for a 68 F-100. Anyone know of a good place? I checked the FTE website and it only goes through 1967. Thanks in advance, Alex Men stumble over the truth from time to time, but most pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing happened -- Winston Churchill == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 15:38:41 EST From: Bad4dFilly aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert In a message dated 12/08/1999 4:14:32 PM !!!First Boot!!!, NTesla333 aol.com writes: insert replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard glove box is disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other folks interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response, I may be able to get this company to custom mold these inserts. Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several years?? What years and what models? Please to help. >> I feel your pain! My cardboard glove box was thrashed when I got my truck tylenol, toothpicks, a pack of cards and a rifle bullet that had slid down in the open compartment next to it!> I talked to a guy on the list who ofered to make me a metal/steel replacement but I haven't heard from him since! =*( My dad duct taped it back together and it's workin pretty well. LMC has CARDBOARD replacements for VERY affordable prices. I can give ya the address is ya want? *~*~Lisa and Emvy~*~* *~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for girls!~*~* == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:12:12 -0500 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Simplicity Gary writes: >>How's that for simple Azie? Great, Gary. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:23:36 -0500 From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - Split rims Don writes: >>Are split rims dangerous to drive on or are they just dangerous to work on? I've used them since I was a very young adult with no problems. Heard of many, but never experienced it myself, nor do I know of anyone directly that has experienced danger or harm personally. I have an F700 now that has split rims (20") and an F350 farm truck that has split rims (16"). I'm 62 years old. You have to make sure the ring is properly seated prior to puting air in them, and that there are no pieces of metal trash or gravel between the ring seat and the rim seat. If there is metal to metal contact all around the seat and no warpage, there should not be a problem. A small wire brush around the rim seat area and the ring seat area should take care of this. A tire store will not mount radials on split rims, I don't think. They wouldn't on mine anyway. Azie Ardmore, Al. == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:29:31 -0500 From: "David J. Turner" Subject: FTE 61-79 - Temperature Sending unit Any one got a sending unit (that fits the intake manifold) for a '56 Ford truck. As far as I know this is the only one that is calibrated properly for the dash unit. I need one. Dave == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:41:50 EST From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 engine and tranny removal i'm pulling the engine and tranny out of the ext cab 250, has anyone ever tried to pull the engine and trans (351m/c6)out as a unit? i unbolted the transfer case from the trans, but was wondering how much trouble it will be to line them back up. i have pulled the trans and t case out of my 78 f150, it was a royal pain in the butt. used an engine hoist inside the truck to let it down on the ground. i don't want to do that again. you get into driveshafts, cross members and all that stuff. saw a highboy today, can't wait to find out if its for sale. if it is i'll pass it along to the list, i can't afford it anyway, unemployment is rough, and the new business is starting very slow. thanks, jeff grant == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 18:11:31 EST From: GMontgo930 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank In a message dated 12/8/99 8:33:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, luxjo thecore.com writes: running from tank to filler tube. Is this hose made a of a special material? Thanks >> I've replaced several and just used 3/4" Heater Hose (rubber of course). Never had a problem with it going bad again. One's been in service for 15 years on my '79 Bronco. Last I looked it was still holding up well. George == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 19:56:55 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: ALL NEW SERVICES ON THE FTE WEB SITE Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce the addition of AutoGuide to web site. The AutoGuide features the following services: - - Price quote on a new or used truck, car or van. FREE - - Insurance quote. FREE - - Finance quote. FREE - - Car Title Check, $17.50 - - Warranty purchase, varies - - Personal credit check (useful to know BEFORE you go to the dealer), $8.00 - - Auto accessories, varies Check them out on the main page of the web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com We hope you find these services useful. Services such as these enable us to continue to offer our free web services to our users as we grow. Regards, Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 20:10:56 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New server Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce that we now have a new dedicated server to host our web services. This high powered machine will be able to handle several million file hits per day (the current server does about 100,000-200,000 per day). The system, in a nutshell: 500Mhz Pentium III 256 megabytes of RAM 10 gigabyte 10,000 RPM hard drive. 100 megabit network connection Redhat Linux with secure SSL server MAE-East and Neutral network backbone connections Currently, FTE is hosted on two shared servers with a total of 500 meg of drive space available to us. During the next 2-3 weeks we will transition the site over to the new server. You should not notice any changes other than much faster response time. As part of the move, the entire mailing archive will be placed online with full searching capabilities! The archive takes about 200 meg of space. Expect to see many new free services added to the site as we leverage the power of this new server. Regards, Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 20:26:05 EST From: GMontgo930 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert In a message dated 12/8/99 11:14:32 AM Eastern Standard Time, NTesla333 aol.com writes: insert replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard glove box is disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other folks interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response, I may be able to get this company to custom mold these inserts. Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several years?? What years and what models? Please to help. Robert Bowen >> I'd be interested depending upon hte final price. Mine is going but still useable for a while yet. George == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 20:35:20 EST From: Pyrate951 aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert Yes I have a 69 f-250 == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 20:47:04 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New events guide Go to the main page of the web site (www.ford-trucks.com) to see our all new events guide. This calendar based guide will allow you to add your Ford truck events. Enjoy! Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 18:11:51 PST From: "gene gardner" Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts As I wrote a couple of weeks ago, my cab mounts gave out and I'm now riding on strategically-placed 2x4s. I was ready to spend the bucks on Dennis Carpenter replacement parts -- also would like to replace other rubber mounts while the cab's off -- but man alive, this is starting to look expensive! And that's without paying the welder. My question: To those of you who have replaced 2x4s with real cab mounts, was it worth the money? Why/why not? I think I could get used to the slightly "wooden" feel it's got now. Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher (aka Scots Cheapskate) 70 F100, 300 I-6 ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 21:19:01 EST From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts In a message dated 12/8/99 9:15:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, genegow hotmail.com writes: > My question: To those of you who have replaced 2x4s with real cab mounts, > was it worth the money? Why/why not? Aside from the obvious hazards of "cab ejection" in a crash situation....you can get by with the 2x4 lift, but the solid contact between the cab and frame transfers a lot more vibration thus "noise" If your cab is out of position too much it can have an adverse effect on the linkages including the column. Stock Man 1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims) 1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd 1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 18:48:20 PST From: "gene gardner" Subject: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes Well, it was supposed to be one of the simplest changeouts of all. Found a duraspark ignition at the junkyard for $35 (including coil) and figured I'd bond with Dad over Thanksgiving tossing it in my 70 F100. We spent DAYS on it (sorry Mom) because of the following shall-we-say errors in judgment: (1) Got the wires reversed on the 2-wire harness because we assumed red went with red and white with white. My bretheren -- PAY NO ATTENTION TO THE COLORS! Got a horrendous backfire through the carb, but was able to somehow start it so, (2) Timed it, then proceeded to rebuild the carb. Good news was that we discovered the float adjustment was way off -- after putting it right I no longer have the lurch-jerk problem I had when I stepped on or let off the gas. But still spewing gas from the carb, and then we noticed the crankshaft sometimes turned BACKWARDS when turning it over! Knew it was timing, discovered the backwards wiring, home free, ready to re-time, except (3) Couldn't advance the dizzy base enough because the vac diaphagm was hitting the engine (couldn't turn it anymore) so (4) Took out the dizzy and shifted it but now it WOULD NOT go back in. Still don't know why not -- even used the old dizzy shaft as a probe but no obstructions at the bottom of the well, and the shaft wasn't in far enough for the o-ring to bind. We wiggled and shimmied, turned the flywheel a little, tapped lightly, made sure the oil pump tube was centered, you name it ... finally it just dropped in easy as pie for no apparent reason. WOO-HOO! But hark, it was back in the original spot, one tooth off, where we couldn't rotate the dizzy base enough to time it right ... (5) Rather than try to reposition the dizzy again we decided, by a unanimous 2-0 vote, to just switch the spark plug wires on the cap (in effect moving the position of #1) so we could now move it enough to be timed. Now it runs great .. Not sure if I explained this clearly or if anyone's interested, but my Dad (an electronics engineer) wrote up a tech article after we finished to vent his frustrations, which I'll try and post to the FTE site soon. Thanks for listening. Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher ______________________________________________________ == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 22:32:56 EST From: TBeeee aol.com Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes In a message dated 12/8/99 9:50:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, genegow hotmail.com writes: > Not sure if I explained this clearly or if anyone's interested, but my Dad > (an electronics engineer) wrote up a tech article after we finished to vent > his frustrations, which I'll try and post to the FTE site soon. Glad you finally found some relief. I have seen this one before first hand unfortunately :-( > (5) Rather than try to reposition the dizzy again we decided, by a unanimous > 2-0 vote, to just switch the spark plug wires on the cap (in effect moving > the position of #1) so we could now move it enough to be timed. Now it.... 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