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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #452
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61-79-list-digest Thursday, December 9 1999 Volume 03 : Number 452



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials
FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands
FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank
RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank
RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands
FTE 61-79 - Re: Original wheels and radials
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Original wheels and radials
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank
RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank
[none]
FTE 61-79 - Split Rims
Re: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials
RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands
FTE 61-79 - aligning steering box etc
FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop)
RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop)
FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands
RE: FTE 61-79 - 4.6 in an 85
Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert
RE: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert
FTE 61-79 - Silicon spray
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank
FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment
Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop)
Re: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank
RE: FTE 61-79 - Silicon spray
RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment
Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals
RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment
Re: FTE 61-79 - IGNITION SWITCH
Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment
FTE 61-79 - Speaking of Manuals
Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert
FTE 61-79 - Simplicity
FTE 61-79 - Split rims
FTE 61-79 - Temperature Sending unit
FTE 61-79 - 4x4 engine and tranny removal
Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: ALL NEW SERVICES ON THE FTE WEB SITE
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New server
Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert
Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New events guide
FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts
Re: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts
FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert
FTE 61-79 - New clutch for 400 - ideas?

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 07:08:58 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials

Thank you! I was just going to jump on this myself. A split ring setup has
to be clean to allow the best interface since the bearing area is relatively
small and radiused but they can not come out if they are in there correctly
in the first place. If you make sure the bead is actually over the edge of
the ring like it's supposed to be it is physically impossible for it to come
out unless you have a broken bead wire. The problems I've seen with them is
an inept installer who didn't check for proper seating before inflating.

We didn't have cages and the rims we worked on were not single, split rings,
they were the truck rims with the split ring outside which retained an inner
bead ring which had to be properly seated in the bead before trying to
inflate it and the outer ring had to be fully in it's groove or it would
definitely come out. I never even had a close call and our rims were spot
painted and rusty and cleaned and spot painted over and over again.

I did see the results of an accident but the fool set the tire up against a
bench on it's tread and squatted down in front of it to inflate it. When
the ring came off we heard it in the next bay with 50' of pavement between
bays. We all knew instinctively what the noise was without ever actually
having seen it ourselves and went over to see a man lying on his back in a
pool of blood with his skull split open. He was very lucky because his
shins (protected by combat boots) caught a large part of the blow and all he
got was a bad head ache and a few stitches but it did knock him out for
several minutes.

I always checked and double checked them and then turned them over on the
ring side and sat in the center while inlfating them and never once had one
come off, either installing it or driving on them. Never had one come off
my brother's 68 F-250 either with the 16.5 split rim setup.

Yes they can be dangerous if you are not meticulous about cleaning them and
seating the ring before inflating but it would take an awful lot of rust to
make them come off if all precautions I stated were applied and if you use a
little common sense when inflating them as to your position relative to the
ring etc. you should never shed a tear over it :-)

BTW, our rings were pretty beat up since all we had to disassemble them was
a "tanker" bar and large sledge hammer. The rings and bead rings got lots
of nicks and burrs in them and still never came off.

As I recall the 16.5 had a single split bead ring which had a lip which fit
under the bead when properly installed. If you make sure the bead is all
the way on this ring and evenly seated all the way around before inflating
there is no way it can come off either but you can't just pop the air to it
and let 'er fly, you have to give it a little air and tap the ring with a
dead blow hammer to seat it as it inflates untill you have full seating all
the way around, both the metal ring to the rim and the tire bead to the ring
before finishing the inflation and even then you should keep your body and
arms out of the way as a precaution.

It's been many years since I actually worked on any of these but this is
what I can recall from my experience. Like many of these rims, I'm a little
rusty :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Don, as a service station employee of many years, and an
> owner of split
> rims for several years, I feel qualified to answer this question.
> I wouldn't be afraid to drive anywhere with properly seated
> split rims.
> If you follow proper procedures while working on them, you
> minimize your
> probabilities of being injured.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 08:21:04 -0500
From: Marvin Meyer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands

I build several engine stands for guy's at work etc. I use 2" 1/8th wall
tubing, 2" solid for the shaft that goes thru the 5/8ths plate (8" X 8")
1" solid square tubing for mounting arms and 1" solid round drilled for
5/8" bolts.
Wheels are Colsen 2" X 4" wheels good for 250# each.
It's a universal design that will fit Small and Big Blocks all makes.
With a 460 on I can jump up and down on the valve covers.
Never tried a 7.3 yet.

meyer strat.net

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 08:32:02 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank

Anyone know where I can get this? It's the hose about 3/4 inch dia
running from tank to filler tube. Is this hose made a of a special
material?

Thanks

OX
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 08:57:28 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank

I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow in it sometimes,
that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into account so gas line
is a good choice. Sometimes it's a trick to get it routed so it doesn't
kink though :-( Vac line might be easier to work with but not sure if it
will stand up to constant exposure to gas and it will kink much easier as
well.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Anyone know where I can get this? It's the hose about 3/4 inch dia
> running from tank to filler tube. Is this hose made a of a special
> material?
>
> Thanks
>
> OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:07:39 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands

The 2" solid is certainly not going to break but the bronco hub I used is a
little suspect since it was not intended to handle that kind of load with
that leverage but it has worked well so far. The danger with this setup is
that if it breaks there will be no warning, it will simply break and crash
to the floor, instantly. Just to be safe I'm carefull not to jump up and
down on the valve covers :-)

I made a solid plate from the spacer plate as a template to mount the engine
to using stand offs made of 3/4" pipe and long bolts which fit the tapped
holes in the engine block. With longer stand offs I can even keep the
flywheel installed if I need to and even have a tranny clone to mount the
starter to if I want, all built into the backing plate. My stand is only
made for the big blocks right now but all I need to do is drill new holes
for the small block since the plate is larger than the small block already.
I centered the hub to the flywheel location in the block but discovered
later that it was not quite balnace in that location but still usable. I
may move it some day but it's not a priority right now :-)

The reason I did it this way is the movable extensions on other stands just
looked to flimsey and I thought I might also want to make a run stand out of
it some day as well, maybe when I retire :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I build several engine stands for guy's at work etc. I use
> 2" 1/8th wall
> tubing, 2" solid for the shaft that goes thru the 5/8ths
> plate (8" X 8")
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:15:31 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands

In a message dated 12/8/99 9:09:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

> I made a solid plate from the spacer plate as a template to mount the engine
> to using stand offs made of 3/4" pipe and long bolts

I'd recommend solid steel drilled for the actual bolt diameter for making
the stand-offs (or at the least welding pipe which has a more thicker wall
than ordinary plumbing pipe). Without this support there is nothing to
prevent long bolts from bending.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 06:12:38 -0800
From: "Scott Jensen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Original wheels and radials


on?>>
I've seen alot of good responses, so I thought I'd throw in my .02.

I haven't had to deal with split rims since I was a kid. I was always told,
"safety first," so I don't deal with them anymore..:) Anyway, make sure
you have a lever lock attachment. Lock your air nozzle on the stem, then
don't stand in front of the wheel till you hear the pop. (I always had a
hard time EVER standing in front of those wheels!)
Once seated and on the truck, make sure you don't stand in front of the
wheel when you lower the jack.

I remember some of the farms having cages made out of expanded metal just
for the purpose of inflating tractor tires. I locked my little brother in
one once, I attribute that to all the Jap trucks he buys, and expects me to
make run.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:33:53 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Original wheels and radials

In a message dated 12/8/99 9:30:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
sjensensr worldnet.att.net writes:

> (I always had a
> hard time EVER standing in front of those wheels!)

I'm with you Scott! I still get skiddish just thinking about it.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 09:39:12 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>
> I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow in it sometimes,
> that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into account so gas line
> is a good choice.

Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same
hose??


OX
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 08:54:23 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank

> Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same
> hose??
>
hahahaha ... that could be an issue ... I used heater hose many years ago
and haven't had any problems (the orange stuff) ... it actually cleared up
my problem of a clogged vent ...

Looking at how those vent tubes run (nearly flat), you might consider
cutting the steel portion of the tube a bit higher up and putting the hose
on there to be sure you get a downhill run that won't hold fuel ... I never
managed that, but it was a thought we had ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 09:09:03 -0600
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: [none]

Don Jones wrote:

> Are split rims dangerous to drive on or are they just dangerous to work on?
>

Food for thought.

Since the topic of split rims is up another thought passes through my mind.

You guys getting truck from farmers and ranchers check the air in the tires.
Its been a practice to use propane to air up tires around farms and ranches.

We had a young man get killed here while doing some work with a cutting torch
on a rim. It blew up due to the propane.

What a waste.

Later

Larry

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 07:03:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Split Rims

>I have a pair of split rims on my truck with 7.50-17
>10 ply tires on
>them,
>tubes and running 50psi. I have a pair of 17 inch
>conventional rims
>waiting to be cleaned up and painted. (one of those
>things i have been
>putting off)
>Are split rims dangerous to drive on or are they
just >dangerous to
>work on?

The worst to work on, but when they get old they can
also be dangerous to drive. As long as you keep 10
ply rubber on it and as they are 17's (17.5's?) and
you don't run over 60-65 mph you should be all right.
But if it were myself, I clean those other wheels up
and put some of these modern radials on. They ride
soo much better.
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 07:16:39 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials

Thanks for your message at 08:26 PM 12/7/99 -0800, canzus seanet.com. Your
message was:
>At 07:03 PM 7:12:99 PST, Don Jones wrote:
>
>>Are split rims dangerous to drive on or are they just dangerous to work on?
>>
>
> In my opinion, both.
>
> I don't like them, never have liked them, never will like them.
>The problem comes along when the seat for the removable section
>starts to rust, and you cant get the section to seat correctly. It will
>appear to seat right, but as soon as you put some pressure in the tire
>it'll blow the rim off. Bad things happen to good people, no matter
>how careful they are. Don't be one of these people, you're life is
>worth more than a new set of steel rims.....

I can't help relating my memories of being 17, working at Harold Ruby's
Signal Station in Issaquah, WA. He would take any job, including large
truck split rims. Being the new kid, I was the lucky one who got to break
down, repair and put back together any split rim flats that came in--no
cage no safety devices whatsoever. Just dumb luck I was never
decapitated. As a result, though I developed a healthy hatred of any split
rims and would not even have them on any vehicle of mine...

Oh yeah, Harold liked to clean his lube room floors with either gasoline or
battery acid, depending on how clean he wanted them. I sure went through
work shoes...
Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:34:29 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands

Soon as I get my lathe.......:-) Theoretically, as long as the pipe does
not collapse, the bolts are in tension, not shear although there obviously
is a shear force involved so bending should not be an issue but collapsing
of the pipe certainly could be. So far I have seen no tendency for them to
do so but it's always something to keep an eye on for sure :-)

The bolts that hold the flaps on a normal stand are under a lot more stress
due to the leverage imposed by the length of the arms and are much more
likely to bend or snap which is why I opted to do it the way I did. If they
were secured by two bolts spaced apart in an elongated hole or slot it would
amount to the same as a solid plate but most that I've seen are secured by
one bolt at the very end of the arm which is a very weak link. You have to
rely on the strength of the bolt and the arm in that case and calculate the
leverage factor the arm imposes on it. I much prefer a tension setup with
grade 8 bolts for this myself :-)

I know they work that way since virtually all commercial stands are made
that way but I still didn't like the idea of hanging 1000# of iron off that
kind of setup. The movable arm setup will adapt to any engine which is why
they use it but......

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> than ordinary plumbing pipe). Without this support there is
> nothing to
> prevent long bolts from bending.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 09:56:20 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - aligning steering box etc

>>One of the jobs of a good alignment man is to ensure that the steering wheel
is centered when he is done but he is supposed to do the steps I mentioned
to accomplish that. If it does not line up when the box is centered then
there is more work to be done. Some part of the linkage, suspension, body
mounts etc. is not correct and needs to be addressed.

Absolutely correct, Gary, as was all of your post. I think my point was
supposed to be that if the previous owner has been playing Mr. Fixit without
a clue or MR. Drive It Til It Drops, there is a good chance that more than
the steering box will be goofed up. I was not disagreeing with any of your
procedure.

I have had several vehicles taken in for alignment only to receive them back
with the steering wheel off center. One guy proceeded to pull the steering
wheel and center it. Then when I turned the wheel slightly left, the turn
signals would cancel and it was 3/4 of a turn less to one lock than the
other. The front inkage was all goofed up. Many $$$ later and after much
frustration, I got it all straightened out.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 08:56:22 -0700
From: "Richard Currit"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop)

>You can make a positive stop from an old spark >lug by breaking out
the porcelain and tapping it for >a long bolt. I made both 18mm and
14mm >versions.

Now the way I've always done this on M*Pars, for changing dampeners, is
to take about a 4 foot length of nylon rope and tie a big knot on one
end. Bring the engine around so that #1 cylinder is coming up on the
compression stroke (valves are then closed and won't interfere), and
stick a bunch of the rope through the spark plug hole. Has worked fine
every time I've done it. Not applicable for finding TDC.

High Plains Richard
'72 F-100, 300 l6
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:36:06 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank

I think Auto Zone has it in all manner of sizes including 3/4 but can't say
for sure. I've bought it so they must have it :-) Been a while so don't
know where I got it.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow
> in it sometimes,
> > that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into
> account so gas line
> > is a good choice.
>
> Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same
> hose??
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 08:07:32 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop)

Also works well for replacing the valve stem seals with the heads on the
motor. Prevents the valves from dropping into the motor when the keeper is
removed.

Tom H

- -----Original Message-----
From: Richard Currit [mailto:RCURRI state.wy.us]
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:56 AM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop)


>You can make a positive stop from an old spark >lug by breaking out
the porcelain and tapping it for >a long bolt. I made both 18mm and
14mm >versions.

Now the way I've always done this on M*Pars, for changing dampeners, is
to take about a 4 foot length of nylon rope and tie a big knot on one
end. Bring the engine around so that #1 cylinder is coming up on the
compression stroke (valves are then closed and won't interfere), and
stick a bunch of the rope through the spark plug hole. Has worked fine
every time I've done it. Not applicable for finding TDC.

High Plains Richard
'72 F-100, 300 l6
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:11:25 EST
From: NTesla333 aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert

I have found a plastic moulding company, that makes plastic glove box insert
replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making
replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard glove box is
disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other folks
interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response, I may be
able to get this company to custom mold these inserts.
Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several years??
What years and what models? Please to help.

Robert Bowen
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:13:36 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands

In a message dated 12/8/99 10:49:38 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

> I know they work that way since virtually all commercial stands are made
> that way but I still didn't like the idea of hanging 1000# of iron off that
> kind of setup. The movable arm setup will adapt to any engine which is why
> they use it but......

I hear you and your comments are all well received on this issue. The
chance of the pipe collapsing is an outside one as long as the bolts are all
tight and you weren't bouncing the engine around on the stand while you work.
In my case, I opted to mount the 6 cylinder on the side as the Ford shop
manual illustrates. I felt much more comfortable with the weight load being
distributed much closer to the mount plate. My site shows a pic of it on the
stand. The thought of getting hurt while we were working on it never
occurred to me, but I couldn't help thinking that my baby might fall on the
floor and break something!

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:25:29 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 4.6 in an 85

> Duh duh daaaaa!!! I found a bellhousing... the 4.6 in the ole, 85
> worked...
> cept I had to weld up some weird motor mounts, but, now the
> intake sticks up
> in the hood )= o wellerz, Any suggestions on what kinda hood
> would be good?
> or anything, as I have no hood =) You guys have been great, I've learned
> sooo much! Thank ya'll!!
>

Huh ... neat trick ? Did I miss something on this, as I don't remember it
comin up before ... so you put a turboed 4.6L in an 85 pickup ? :)
Cooooollll.... :)

What intake system are you using ? The 'stangs have a considerably lower
hood than the trucks, maybe you could use one of their upper intakes to get
the clearance where you need it ... another possibility is an aftermarket
hood, or a fiberglass scoop to cut underneath of ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 09:38:34 -0700
From: William Whited
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert

It would be great to get plastic instead I hate those cardboard things.

NTesla333 aol.com wrote:

> I have found a plastic moulding company, that makes plastic glove box insert
> replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making
> replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard glove box is
> disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other folks
> interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response, I may be
> able to get this company to custom mold these inserts.
> Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several years??
> What years and what models? Please to help.
>
> Robert Bowen
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:47:29 -0800
From: nukegm ford-trucks.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert

- --- Original Message ---
NTesla333 aol.com Wrote on
Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:11:25 EST
------------------
I have found a plastic moulding company, that makes plastic glove
box insert
replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making

replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard
glove box is
disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other
folks
interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response,
I may be
able to get this company to custom mold these inserts.
Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several
years??
What years and what models? Please to help.


Robert,

Dennis Carpenter's already carries a full line of replacement
gloveboxe liners.....so do many many other obsolete dealers.
They are the original cardboard style and not made of plastic.
Plastic ones would be awesome for those who will actually use
one. I am unsure about the differences between years.......sorry.

Stu
Nuke GM!
Robert Bowen
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- -----
Sent using MailStart.com ( http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://MailStart.Com/welcome.html )
The FREE way to access your mailbox via any web browser, anywhere!

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 13:14:56 +0000
From: "Eric"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Silicon spray

Gary,

Check the side of the can.... Prolly has Propane for its
propelant..... sometimes used instead of those hydrocarbons.

Eric 'Stitch'

> From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"

> I didn't
> think there was anything in silicone spray for it to burn???

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 09:32:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Daniel DiMartino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals

mike,

i have a new autokrafters catalog and they have the three volume
set for 1966 for $69.95. check them out!


=====
Daniel DiMartino

1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:36:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank

Ox wondered:
> Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
> >
> > I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow in it sometimes,
> > that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into account so gas line
> > is a good choice.
>
> Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same
> hose??

NAPA, or if that fails, a boat shop. Boats use really long fill and
vent hoses - which reminds me, I need to check mine out this winter :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 12:45:51 -0600
From: David.R.John deluxe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment

Gary wrote:

>>The sector shaft "Hangs" from the "T" bolt adjuster screw in the top of
the
>>steering box in a modern, recirculating ball, sector type power steering
>>box, is right hand threaded and has a jam nut to secure it. To ensure
>>proper operation certain things have to be setup before you can make this
>>adjustment:

>>1..Remove the drag link from the pitman arm (with a proper tool, not a
>>tuning fork).

Gary,

What is the proper tool for this?? Is there a suggested technique for
those of us who do not have a large array of "proper" tools?

Thanks,

David John


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 12:46:33 -0600
From: "Freewheel"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands

where are you at and could I get one of these. :) I am tired of those wimpy
commercial stands.
Larry


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Marvin Meyer
To: Ford Truck list post (E-mail)
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 1999 7:21 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Stands


> I build several engine stands for guy's at work etc. I use 2" 1/8th wall
> tubing, 2" solid for the shaft that goes thru the 5/8ths plate (8" X 8")
> 1" solid square tubing for mounting arms and 1" solid round drilled for
> 5/8" bolts.
> Wheels are Colsen 2" X 4" wheels good for 250# each.
> It's a universal design that will fit Small and Big Blocks all makes.
> With a 460 on I can jump up and down on the valve covers.
> Never tried a 7.3 yet.
>
> meyer strat.net
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 10:50:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: tdc (positive stop)

Tom and Richard wrote:

> Also works well for replacing the valve stem seals with the heads on the
> motor. Prevents the valves from dropping into the motor when the keeper is
> removed.
>
> Tom H
>
> Now the way I've always done this on M*Pars, for changing dampeners, is
> to take about a 4 foot length of nylon rope and tie a big knot on one
> end. Bring the engine around so that #1 cylinder is coming up on the
> compression stroke (valves are then closed and won't interfere), and
> stick a bunch of the rope through the spark plug hole. Has worked fine
> every time I've done it. Not applicable for finding TDC.
>
> High Plains Richard

And, I'll add a plug for the tech articles so Ken won't have to -
Steve Delanty wrote up an article on the rope trick, which
can be found in the tech article section, or go directly to:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.sonic.net/~sdelanty/tools/valvesproings.htm
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 11:01:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Original Wheels & Radials

Dennis remembers:

> I can't help relating my memories of being 17, working at Harold Ruby's
> Signal Station in Issaquah, WA. He would take any job, including large
> truck split rims. Being the new kid, I was the lucky one who got to break
> down, repair and put back together any split rim flats that came in--no
> cage no safety devices whatsoever. Just dumb luck I was never
> decapitated. As a result, though I developed a healthy hatred of any split
> rims and would not even have them on any vehicle of mine...
>
> Oh yeah, Harold liked to clean his lube room floors with either gasoline or
> battery acid, depending on how clean he wanted them. I sure went through
> work shoes...

I too have a healthy (dis)respect for split rims, for similar reasons.
But, my boss wouldn't let anyone but himself touch them. After beating
on a wheel for what seemed forever to me (large hammer and a chisel-
like tool), he would put them under the lift (in-ground center post
hydraulic lift), and drop that lift right on top of the assembly
before inflating. I would go hide in the office or behind a metal
cabinet :-)
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 13:46:55 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank

Napa should have it. That's where I got my filler hose and they had quite a
selection.

"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:

> I think Auto Zone has it in all manner of sizes including 3/4 but can't say
> for sure. I've bought it so they must have it :-) Been a while so don't
> know where I got it.
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
> > > I've always used gas line for that and since gas does flow
> > in it sometimes,
> > > that is, it is exposed to gas you should take that into
> > account so gas line
> > > is a good choice.
> >
> > Where can I get 3/4-1 inch gas line??? Are we talking about the same
> > hose??

- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc


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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:44:03 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Silicon spray

I'll have to remember that! I once slammed the hood on a can of hot
shot....fortunately the engine wasn't running! :-) Filled the whole area
with the stuff in a matter of seconds. I'll be more careful with the
silicon from now on :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Gary,
>
> Check the side of the can.... Prolly has Propane for its
> propelant..... sometimes used instead of those hydrocarbons.
>
> Eric 'Stitch'
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:56:16 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment

OGP or what ever it is makes a neat puller that uses a bolt to push the
tapered pin out of the pitman arm and works on all the other tie rod ends as
well. My first one cost $20 but due to warrantees and lifetime guarantees
the last one I had replaced was listed as $80 :-( I got mine free but a new
one costs $80 now. This is the only way to get it off if you plan to reuse
it. Tuning forks break the internal parts in the ball joint so the tie rod
end is damaged and should not be reused. They are fine for removing one
you plan to throw away.

Lest I get chewed out again for being too technical, there is a way to do it
with a hammer, a pry bar and some luck :-) You first get the linkage in a
position where you can apply some pressure to separate the two parts while
having access to the side of the link in which the tapered pin is inserted.
Loosen the nut but don't take it all the way off, pry between the two links
or arms and whack the side of this link with a hammer. This upsets the seal
of the male taper to the femal taper and it will pop out but be carefull not
to whack on it so hard or in a direction that it will damage some other
component which may be attached like the other ball joint on the other end
or whatever. Just use a little common sense there :-) It usually takes a
pretty fair whack to do it in my experience.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >>1..Remove the drag link from the pitman arm (with a proper
> tool, not a
> >>tuning fork).
>
> Gary,
>
> What is the proper tool for this?? Is there a suggested technique for
> those of us who do not have a large array of "proper" tools?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 15:09:31 -0500
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals

On the web site in the online store. We have over 300 books,
manuals, and decals.

Ken Payne
Admin

Mikerenf aol.com wrote:
>
> where can you get a manual for a "66" f-100 truck??
>
> thanks mike r
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:15:15 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment

I've been skimming this particular thread, and now you've gotten to removing
approaches ... sometimes they are a real pain, but on disassembling a front
axle in my garage I found that if you put the nut flush with the top of the
stud sticking through and soak it for a couple minutes in penetrating oil, a
good whack with a heavy hammer will work great ... I think I had to hit one
of htem twice, but never hit it more than that wihtout putting a wrench on
the bolt to be sure you haven't messed the threads up ... I feel I got
really lucky, but have had it work several times in a row, including the
front end of a 'stang or two ... scarey but true ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 15:24:24 EST
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - IGNITION SWITCH

In a message dated 12/06/1999 3:06:53 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
rhughes norman.k12.ok.us writes:


leaving work and the starter did not disengage. I turned off the ignition
switch but it was still cranking. I quickly ran around to the front of the
truck, popped the hood and and unscrewed the battery disconnect. That
stopped/saved the starter. >>

Hey there! Do ya mean once the engine turned over the starter continued to
"start" and didn't shut off immediately after the engine starts? If so, this
happened to me once and scared the hell outta me. ACtually my boyfriend was
dtartin my truck up. He then turned the key to the "off" position and the
truck continued to run, making a grinding sound. I don't know how but somehow
we got it turmed off about 15 seconds later. Is this the same problem you
have?

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for girls!~*~*
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 15:25:31 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Power steering adjustment

In a message dated 12/8/99 3:18:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, wish iastate.edu
writes:

> I've been skimming this particular thread, and now you've gotten to removing
> approaches ...

Gary's "whacking" method is by far much superior to the "nut hit" method. I
think this passes the filters right? (I know this is a family show). It's
nice to know that there is a more technical approach which involves the
correct tool (thanks Gary) Tool etiquette is one more benefit of the lists
experience!

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 14:17:21 -0600
From: "Alex Beshirs"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Speaking of Manuals

I am trying to locate a set of manuals for a 68 F-100. Anyone know of a
good place? I checked the FTE website and it only goes through 1967.

Thanks in advance,
Alex

Men stumble over the truth from time to time, but most pick themselves up
and hurry off as if nothing happened -- Winston Churchill

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 15:38:41 EST
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert

In a message dated 12/08/1999 4:14:32 PM !!!First Boot!!!, NTesla333 aol.com
writes:


insert
replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making
replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard glove box is
disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other folks
interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response, I may be
able to get this company to custom mold these inserts.
Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several years??
What years and what models? Please to help.
>>

I feel your pain! My cardboard glove box was thrashed when I got my truck

tylenol, toothpicks, a pack of cards and a rifle bullet that had slid down in
the open compartment next to it!> I talked to a guy on the list who ofered to
make me a metal/steel replacement but I haven't heard from him since! =*( My
dad duct taped it back together and it's workin
pretty well. LMC has CARDBOARD replacements for VERY
affordable prices. I can give ya the address is ya want?

*~*~Lisa and Emvy~*~*
*~*~SIlly boys...trucks are for girls!~*~*
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:12:12 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Simplicity

Gary writes: >>How's that for simple Azie?

Great, Gary.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:23:36 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Split rims

Don writes: >>Are split rims dangerous to drive on or are they just
dangerous to work on?

I've used them since I was a very young adult with no problems. Heard of
many, but never experienced it myself, nor do I know of anyone directly
that has experienced danger or harm personally. I have an F700 now that
has split rims (20") and an F350 farm truck that has split rims (16"). I'm
62 years old. You have to make sure the ring is properly seated prior to
puting air in them, and that there are no pieces of metal trash or gravel
between the ring seat and the rim seat. If there is metal to metal contact
all around the seat and no warpage, there should not be a problem. A small
wire brush around the rim seat area and the ring seat area should take care
of this. A tire store will not mount radials on split rims, I don't think.
They wouldn't on mine anyway.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:29:31 -0500
From: "David J. Turner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Temperature Sending unit

Any one got a sending unit (that fits the intake manifold) for a '56 Ford
truck. As far as I know this is the only one that is calibrated properly
for the dash unit. I need one.

Dave

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:41:50 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 4x4 engine and tranny removal

i'm pulling the engine and tranny out of the ext cab 250, has anyone ever
tried to pull the engine and trans (351m/c6)out as a unit? i unbolted the
transfer case from the trans, but was wondering how much trouble it will be
to line them back up. i have pulled the trans and t case out of my 78 f150,
it was a royal pain in the butt. used an engine hoist inside the truck to let
it down on the ground. i don't want to do that again. you get into
driveshafts, cross members and all that stuff.
saw a highboy today, can't wait to find out if its for sale. if it is i'll
pass it along to the list, i can't afford it anyway, unemployment is rough,
and the new business is starting very slow.

thanks, jeff grant

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 18:11:31 EST
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Overflow/vent hose for 78 gas tank

In a message dated 12/8/99 8:33:30 AM Eastern Standard Time,
luxjo thecore.com writes:


running from tank to filler tube. Is this hose made a of a special
material?

Thanks

>>

I've replaced several and just used 3/4" Heater Hose (rubber of course).
Never had a problem with it going bad again. One's been in service for 15
years on my '79 Bronco. Last I looked it was still holding up well.

George
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 19:56:55 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: ALL NEW SERVICES ON THE FTE WEB SITE

Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce the addition
of AutoGuide to web site. The AutoGuide features the
following services:

- - Price quote on a new or used truck, car or van. FREE
- - Insurance quote. FREE
- - Finance quote. FREE
- - Car Title Check, $17.50
- - Warranty purchase, varies
- - Personal credit check (useful to know BEFORE you go to
the dealer), $8.00
- - Auto accessories, varies

Check them out on the main page of the web site:
http://www.ford-trucks.com

We hope you find these services useful. Services such as
these enable us to continue to offer our free web services
to our users as we grow.

Regards,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 20:10:56 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New server

Ford Truck Enthusiasts is pleased to announce that we
now have a new dedicated server to host our web services.
This high powered machine will be able to handle several
million file hits per day (the current server does about
100,000-200,000 per day).

The system, in a nutshell:

500Mhz Pentium III
256 megabytes of RAM
10 gigabyte 10,000 RPM hard drive.
100 megabit network connection
Redhat Linux with secure SSL server
MAE-East and Neutral network backbone connections

Currently, FTE is hosted on two shared servers with a total
of 500 meg of drive space available to us. During the
next 2-3 weeks we will transition the site over to the new
server. You should not notice any changes other than
much faster response time. As part of the move, the entire
mailing archive will be placed online with full searching
capabilities! The archive takes about 200 meg of space.
Expect to see many new free services added to the site
as we leverage the power of this new server.

Regards,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 20:26:05 EST
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert

In a message dated 12/8/99 11:14:32 AM Eastern Standard Time,
NTesla333 aol.com writes:


insert
replacements for J**ps and IH Scouts, that is interested in making
replacements for Ford trucks. I own a 78 F250 and my cardboard glove box is
disintegrating so I definiately want one. Are any of you other folks
interested in a replacement as well? If I can get a good response, I may be
able to get this company to custom mold these inserts.
Finally, were the cardboard glove box inserts the same for several years??
What years and what models? Please to help.

Robert Bowen >>

I'd be interested depending upon hte final price. Mine is going but still
useable for a while yet.

George
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 20:35:20 EST
From: Pyrate951 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Replacement Glove Box Insert

Yes I have a 69 f-250
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 20:47:04 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: New events guide

Go to the main page of the web site (www.ford-trucks.com)
to see our all new events guide. This calendar based
guide will allow you to add your Ford truck events.

Enjoy!
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 18:11:51 PST
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts

As I wrote a couple of weeks ago, my cab mounts gave out and I'm now riding
on strategically-placed 2x4s. I was ready to spend the bucks on Dennis
Carpenter replacement parts -- also would like to replace other rubber
mounts while the cab's off -- but man alive, this is starting to look
expensive! And that's without paying the welder.

My question: To those of you who have replaced 2x4s with real cab mounts,
was it worth the money? Why/why not? I think I could get used to the
slightly "wooden" feel it's got now.

Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher (aka Scots Cheapskate)
70 F100, 300 I-6

______________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 21:19:01 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 2x4 cab mounts

In a message dated 12/8/99 9:15:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
genegow hotmail.com writes:

> My question: To those of you who have replaced 2x4s with real cab mounts,
> was it worth the money? Why/why not?

Aside from the obvious hazards of "cab ejection" in a crash
situation....you can get by with the 2x4 lift, but the solid contact between
the cab and frame transfers a lot more vibration thus "noise" If your cab
is out of position too much it can have an adverse effect on the linkages
including the column.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Wed, 08 Dec 1999 18:48:20 PST
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes

Well, it was supposed to be one of the simplest changeouts of all. Found a
duraspark ignition at the junkyard for $35 (including coil) and figured I'd
bond with Dad over Thanksgiving tossing it in my 70 F100. We spent DAYS on
it (sorry Mom) because of the following shall-we-say errors in judgment:
(1) Got the wires reversed on the 2-wire harness because we assumed red went
with red and white with white. My bretheren -- PAY NO ATTENTION TO THE
COLORS! Got a horrendous backfire through the carb, but was able to somehow
start it so,
(2) Timed it, then proceeded to rebuild the carb. Good news was that we
discovered the float adjustment was way off -- after putting it right I no
longer have the lurch-jerk problem I had when I stepped on or let off the
gas. But still spewing gas from the carb, and then we noticed the crankshaft
sometimes turned BACKWARDS when turning it over! Knew it was timing,
discovered the backwards wiring, home free, ready to re-time, except
(3) Couldn't advance the dizzy base enough because the vac diaphagm was
hitting the engine (couldn't turn it anymore) so
(4) Took out the dizzy and shifted it but now it WOULD NOT go back in. Still
don't know why not -- even used the old dizzy shaft as a probe but no
obstructions at the bottom of the well, and the shaft wasn't in far enough
for the o-ring to bind. We wiggled and shimmied, turned the flywheel a
little, tapped lightly, made sure the oil pump tube was centered, you name
it ... finally it just dropped in easy as pie for no apparent reason.
WOO-HOO! But hark, it was back in the original spot, one tooth off, where we
couldn't rotate the dizzy base enough to time it right ...
(5) Rather than try to reposition the dizzy again we decided, by a unanimous
2-0 vote, to just switch the spark plug wires on the cap (in effect moving
the position of #1) so we could now move it enough to be timed. Now it runs
great ..

Not sure if I explained this clearly or if anyone's interested, but my Dad
(an electronics engineer) wrote up a tech article after we finished to vent
his frustrations, which I'll try and post to the FTE site soon. Thanks for
listening.

Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 22:32:56 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - duraspark conversion woes

In a message dated 12/8/99 9:50:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
genegow hotmail.com writes:

> Not sure if I explained this clearly or if anyone's interested, but my Dad
> (an electronics engineer) wrote up a tech article after we finished to
vent
> his frustrations, which I'll try and post to the FTE site soon.

Glad you finally found some relief. I have seen this one before first
hand unfortunately :-(

> (5) Rather than try to reposition the dizzy again we decided, by a
unanimous
> 2-0 vote, to just switch the spark plug wires on the cap (in effect moving
> the position of #1) so we could now move it enough to be timed. Now it....


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