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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #450
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, December 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 450



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - 302 oil fouling problem FOUND
RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 to GO!
RE: FTE 61-79 - 5-Speed manual transmission swap
RE: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Zero Oil Pressure
RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 ing timmin
RE: FTE 61-79 - 78 steering box sector shaft adjustment screw sea l
RE: FTE 61-79 - cab and bed rubber mounts
RE: FTE 61-79 - Clutch Question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Decals
FTE 61-79 - Original Wheels & Radials
FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project
FTE 61-79 - 78 steering box sector shaft adjustment screw seal
FTE 61-79 - IGNITION SWITCH
RE: FTE 61-79 - Adjusting the Steering Slop Out, Sector and rack steering
RE: FTE 61-79 - Original Wheels & Radials
RE: FTE 61-79 - 78 steering box sector shaft adjustment screw sea l
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 steering box sector shaft adjustment screw sea l
FTE 61-79 - Mr Fixit
FTE 61-79 - Electronic Ignition
RE: FTE 61-79 - Electronic Ignition
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project
FTE 61-79 - Ignition Stuff
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project
FTE 61-79 - Re: Clutch Forks
Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Ignition Stuff
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals
Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 ing timmin
FTE 61-79 - new to list

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 06:41:23 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 302 oil fouling problem FOUND

If your timing sprocket exploded "and" springs in the dizzy??? there must be
a reason. You better checkout the oil pump and dizzy gear to make sure they
are still functioning. A very common phenomena with old engines it a locked
up pump which shears the dizzy gear roll pin and the engine runs but not
very well until the gear gets so loose it won't stay in place at all. It
can appear to be all manner of things going wrong because the gear moves on
the dizzy shaft and runs and quits etc.. I've seen them do this with a
lifter kicked all the way out of the bore, push rod lying in the valley and
parts scattered all over with teeth missing from the cam gear and a sheared
dizzy pin and a dropped valve and still run, just not very well. I don't
guess I have to explain than running such an engine is not recommended :-)

This was the useless M block of course :-) Only a wounded elephant could
have still been moving with that much damage :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> compression on number 4. The story goes as follows. One
> day truck runs
> great, next day the distributer springs break and the plastic
> cam shaft
> timing sprocket explodes. Thats right! 200k miles on a nylon timing
> sprocket. Thats one for record books. Anyway, I replace all of the
> offending parts, fire it up, and it only runs on two cylinders. Right
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 07:01:58 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 460 to GO!

Mine is a Melling also and works very well.

That's why I like the 460, you can make a powerful beast with a little
pocket change. Certainly beats the snot out of the cash outlay for the same
torque in a 302 for sure or even a 351 :-) Heavy is ok when you can make
that kind of power that cheap :-) They put them in pintos so you can
certainly figure out a way to make it work in a truck :-)

Yeah, I built my own engine stand and bought a 2 ton picker for that reason.
I used a dana 44 front spindle for the axle in the stand and made the frame
from 2x4" rectangualar tubing with an angle brace in the center that just
clears the oil pan when rotated. The only mistake I made was the under
powered rubber casters :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> 8.4 to 1 and a Wolverine Blue racer RV-type(same as a
> Mellings) cam. It was quite impressive, and is so
>
> A mild 460 is a strong engine, I'm still an FE man all

> an FE by at least 100 lbs), we had to put a block
> under it to keep it from killing the engine stand when
> we left it mostly assembled overnight. There was an
> audible "whew" from both the engine stand and cherry
> picker when he put that engine back where it belonged.
> Would have swore I heard a groan from the truck,
> though :-)
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 07:10:25 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 5-Speed manual transmission swap

The ZF bolts right up to the big blocks but is not as durable as the Np435
by any means. It uses ATF and is prone to blowing up and leaking etc.. If
you get one get the 547 not the 542. The 547 is used behind the diesels too
:-)

I'm reasonably sure the ZF will require a new drive shaft which is the only
thing the C-6 will require other than an auto column or floor shifter. You
will also have to have the correct adapter and tail shaft housing etc. as
well as front drive shaft for 4x4 application, they are different for each
tranny and the ZF may only work with the BS 1356 or 1345. Not sure if the
xfer case patters are the same as the Np205 or not, don't think so.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Can anyone tell me if the later model 5-speed truck
> transmission that Ford
> uses was ever used behind a 429/460 or a 351M? I have toyed
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 07:15:20 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - cab mounts

I ordered them from JCW for $32 I think it was. They were listed in the
Ford suppliment to the catalog. I got rear fender arch repair, rear piller
lower repair, front cab floor panels and the mounts, both sides of each for
$239.00 Can't complain about the price, now lets see if I like the metal
they use :-)

Oh......just realized you were talking about the rubber parts....got to get
those one day soon too :-) Then I have to find time and energy to put them
on.......:-) Starter's off right now, laying on the bench :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> You can get a complete set of cab mounts from Dennis Carpenter
> Reproductions.
> Their website is: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dennis-carpenter.com/
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 07:44:31 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Zero Oil Pressure

Something many people over look also is that the plug which connects to the
sender must be tight for a good connection. On older trucks this metal
fatigues and wears out and you have to pinch it closed again. I also put
dielectric grease on the pins. I do this for the fuel sender and water temp
senders as well.

Many times you fix the problem without realizing it just by unplugging and
replugging the wire and there is nothing wrong with the sender itself :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Thanks for all of the comments and advice about my trucks oil pressure
> scare. Problem solved. It WAS the oil pressure sending unit.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 08:14:34 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 ing timmin

If I found the outer ring had moved on any damper on any engine I own I
would replace it. This is nothing to fool with. If it can move it can also
come off. Of course the pulleys will keep it from falling into the works
but it will cease to be a damper.

Finding the TDC position requires a degree wheel and positive stop to be
accurate. I find it hard to believe that anyone can find TDC any closer than
10 or 15 degrees by rotating the crank and feeling for piston movement. If
you don't have a degree wheel you can also just mark the pulley and some
part of the block which is located well for this as a pointer or bolt on a
pointer, install a positive stop and rotate it both ways and mark the pully
to the pointer in both positions then split the difference to get TDC.

You can make a positive stop from an old spark plug by breaking out the
porcelain and tapping it for a long bolt. I made both 18mm and 14mm
versions. If you have a long needle, axial movement indicator you can find
it fairly accurately that way too but the degree wheel and positive stop is
the only "accurate" way to do it. All other methods are compromised by
engine clearances and crank throw geometry.....physics :-)

BTW, It's best when using a positive stop for this to take out all the plugs
so there is no pressure to fight against to cause over torquing the stop
against the piston top. They are pretty tough but I personally would be
cautious about slamming the piston against a stop with any force :-)
Doesn't help the accuracy either :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The outer ring on the balancer sometimes walks around, as the
> rubber belt
> that separates the outer ring from the inner body will lose
> it's bonding and
> allow slipage. I have been forced to relocate TDC on the
> outer ring. Pull
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 08:17:25 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 78 steering box sector shaft adjustment screw sea l

OX, the adjuster screw has a jam nut on it. I would think that would more
or less prevent a leak there unless there is some kind of problem with the
threads. Did you take the adjuster out and clean the threads? I would
think that if this remains a problem you might be able to use RTV under the
nut to seal it?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I took my sector shaft out because it was leaking from the sector adj.
> screw. I have a steering box rebuild kit, which has one small
> O-ring in
> it. I don't see where it would go to seal the adj screw. In fact, I
> don't see anything that would seal that. Any clues??
>
> OX
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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 08:21:19 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - cab and bed rubber mounts

Dick Cepek has this stuff but not sure if he sells just the rubber parts.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> anybody no where to get the rubber biscuits that are in
> between the brame and
> body? the extended cab i'm working on needs a few replaced,
> will probably
> have to replace all for the body to be straight.
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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 08:25:11 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Clutch Question

For reliability I would only consider the diapharm type. The 3 finger type
have some reliability problems and are prone to breaking. You can
undoubtedly get a truck style disk to work with a diaphram type pressure
plate. The part that the disk sees is the same in either case so only the
spline and diameter are a consideration there :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Folks,
> Other than Centerforce, does anybody have any clutch manufacturer
> recommendations? How about long vs. diaphragm configuration? I'm
> looking for longevity. Use includes trailering.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 08:30:03 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Engine Decals

Keep in mind that every application, even in the same year had it's own,
proprietary decal for tuning. The advance was different even for the same
engine when used in different applications so the decal may or may not be
accurate for your application. If you just want them for looks it shouldn't
matter right?

If you are trying to get the engine tuned, these decals will probably not do
the trick for you unless you are extremely lucky enough to find the exact
one for your engine and year and application so the info already posted here
recently on trial and error tuning is the way to fix that problem.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > > I don't know the company, but I see these decals at most
> all large swap
> > > meets that I go to.
> > >
> >
> >Aren't these engine decals right here on this very site? Go
> to the FTE main
> >Site to check it out.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 08:25:13 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Original Wheels & Radials

>>I had been looking to get radials for my truck using the
original steel wheels, but heard something from a couple
of sources that made me think twice.

The orginal wheels weren't designed for the loading that
is involved with radial tires, so although they may appear
to work fine, after a couple of years, they begin to fail
by splitting apart.

Has anyone on this list heard of this problem, had any
experience, or words of wisdom?

No words of wisdom or advice, just my experience. I have been running
radials for the last 15 years or so on the stock wheels with no problems. I
have never heard of a wheel failure due to what you describe. The only two
ways I have ever lost one piece stock steel wheels was 1.) run over
something and bend it or 2.) rust a hole where the spot welds are and
develop an incurable leak. The biggest problem is putting tires too large
for the width of the rim.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 06:21:44 -0800
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project

Stockman:

Great shots of the engine rebuild and detailing of the engine
compartment. Did you use POR or an equivalent on the frame or other
parts?

- --
Tim Bowman
71 F100
a pair of 63 XL's
Burien, WA
tkbowman uswest.net


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Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 10:03:45 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 steering box sector shaft adjustment screw seal

luxjo thecore.com wrote:
>
> I took my sector shaft out because it was leaking from the sector adj.
> screw. I have a steering box rebuild kit, which has one small O-ring in
> it. I don't see where it would go to seal the adj screw. In fact, I
> don't see anything that would seal that. Any clues??
>

OK, I took the whole box apart during the weekend. The small, fat
o-ring goes between the main body and the control valve housing (not for
sector adj screw). Is the adjusment screw nut, with it's nylon locking
insert, all that seals the threaded adjustment screw? If the box is
leaking heavily there, does it mean I have too much pressure in the main
body where the sector shaft teeth meet the input shaft (asuming blown
internal seal and HP ports are leaking into chamber)? How does the fluid
get into this chamber, is it just the return line fluid that fills up
this chamber and the rest goes back to the pump?

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 09:06:12 -0600
From: "roger hughes"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - IGNITION SWITCH

I am new to this list and boy is it busy. I enjoy reading the list and
getting good info on Ford trucks. I own a 1976 F250 Camper Special that was
handed down to me by my Dad. I replaced the spent 360 engine with a 390 and
have been restoring the rubber parts in the cab.

Had an interesting ignition problem recently. I started the truck when
leaving work and the starter did not disengage. I turned off the ignition
switch but it was still cranking. I quickly ran around to the front of the
truck, popped the hood and and unscrewed the battery disconnect. That
stopped/saved the starter.
I mistakenly thought I had a stuck starter relay. I tapped it a few times
to free up the contacts. I started the truck and it ran fine. I stopped on
the way home and bought a starter relay just in case. A week later I parked
the truck in my driveway and turned off the ignition switch but the engine
kept running. Pulled the coil wire to shut it down. Then made another trip
to the parts store for a new ignition switch. All is well with my truck
now.

Roger
76 F250 Daily Driver
55 F100 Pampered in the Garage

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Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 10:28:46 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Adjusting the Steering Slop Out, Sector and rack steering

Ok, I'm going to do this again and this time I'm saving my copy to my tech
articles folder for future responses :-)

The sector shaft "Hangs" from the "T" bolt adjuster screw in the top of the
steering box in a modern, recirculating ball, sector type power steering
box, is right hand threaded and has a jam nut to secure it. To ensure
proper operation certain things have to be setup before you can make this
adjustment:

1..Remove the drag link from the pitman arm (with a proper tool, not a
tuning fork).

2..Rotate the steering wheel from lock to lock and position it to the center
of travel, regardless of how the steering wheel looks in that position. If
it is not centered then you may wish to remove it and relocate it to the box
center if it is also going to put it in the center on the road. For best
handling they should be in sync. If not then something in the steering
linkage, frame, suspension or/and body mounts etc. is not correct.

3..Loosen the lock nut on the adjuster several turns to allow some adjusting
room on the screw.

4..While feeling for the lash with your hand on the pitman arm, turn the
screw in until all lash is just taken out. Do not use any force on this and
do not "jam" it into the rack. If it is already jammed into the rack, back
it out and re-adjust it if it will come out. Since the rack and sector are
tapered with a very slight taper it is possible to jam the sector into the
rack with enough force to cause it to bind so that you can't pull it back
out with the adjuster without breaking something. If this happens you will
have to use a dead blow hammer on the end of the sector shaft and tap it
back up, carefully. Allow a small amount of over adjustment for the jam nut
to pull it back and tighten the nut while holding the screw in position.

5..Check for lash. If there is none it may be too tight so lossen the nut
without moving the adjuster, back the adjuster out an 1/8th turn and
retighten and check again. If there is now lash your previous adjustment
was probably correct so return it to that, if not continue this process
untill you have zero lash with no preload.

As someone pointed out, the book calls for an Inch pound torque at the
steering wheel but there are many factors which can alter the reading which
have nothing to do with the box so by using the method I have outlined you
will have a tight box but it will not bind anywhere in it's travel and will
not be loose enough to cause any concerns. The handling will be more than
acceptable if you follow these directions.

If you have a 4x4 then there are some other things to look at for looseness:

1..There is a Ujoint at the base of the steering column which can either
wear so that it is loose or bind due to bearings seizing. Seized bearings
will cause a "thumping" when you turn the steering wheel which may feel like
the power steering pump is failing.

2..Between the rag joint and Ujoint is a sliding or telescoping joint which
is nothing more than a tube with a flat in it which mates with a flat on the
steering shaft. Inside there is a flat spring which maintains zero radial
lash and it has a grease fitting in most cases. If there is any radial lash
in this joint it will cause significant looseness in the steering on the
road.

3..The rag joint is exposed to oil which eats the rubber so has to be
replaced periodically for best handling. Kits come with only one large lug
and one small one but in 4x4 applications there are two large lugs so to put
it back to original spec you must buy two kits unless you can find one made
specifically for the application. Grind the peened end off the lugs and
punch them out without damaging the sheet metal part which must be reused to
maintain proper stiffness in the joint. This part does not come with the
kit.

4..The input shaft to the box is retained by a thrust/radial bearing which
controls the rack and imput shaft or steering shaft axial movement. This
can cause significant looseness on the road with only a small amount of lash
in it so check this too.

Remember that there are no bearings in there that need or even want any
preload. They should all have zero lash when hot but not preload for best
operation and longevity. This is true of most bearing applications with
some notable exceptions such as the differential pinion etc.. In my
experience, when in doubt, it is better to leave them loose than tight in
most cases but too loose is just as bad as too tight so use good judgement
when working with bearings.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have just bought a 78 F250 extended cab V460. I have fixed
> everything and
> it runs great. But... like a lot of old trucks the steering
> is loosy goosy.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 10:39:43 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Original Wheels & Radials

Are we talking cast wheels or steel wheels? Steel wheels have a one piece
rim which cannot split, period unless there is damage due to rust or serious
impact and I do mean serious. Cast wheels OTOH are notorious for splitting
radially between the two rims on heavy impacts. OEM aluminum wheels for
trucks are not cast, they are forged and easily as strong as steel wheels so
this should not happen.

Many after market aluminum wheels, the cheap ones, are cast and not really
suitable for anything but show on a truck. If you drive off road or haul
loads with your truck you should not even consider cast wheels IMNSHO :-)

I honestly don't see any difference between the rim side loading with
radials or bias tires. Bias tires "used" to have stiffer side walls than
radials and still do have at least a slight advantage but that advantage has
been reduced over the years to improve the radials quirky handling problems.
What any of that has to do with rim side loading I have no idea???

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >>I had been looking to get radials for my truck using the
> original steel wheels, but heard something from a couple
> of sources that made me think twice.
>
> The orginal wheels weren't designed for the loading that
> is involved with radial tires, so although they may appear
> to work fine, after a couple of years, they begin to fail
> by splitting apart.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 10:49:06 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 78 steering box sector shaft adjustment screw sea l

Now you're way past my experience with these :-) Keep meaning to
investigate one but haven't got around to it yet. I wonder if the service
manual gets into that very much? If I think about it I will take a look.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> sector adj screw). Is the adjusment screw nut, with it's nylon locking
> insert, all that seals the threaded adjustment screw? If the box is
> leaking heavily there, does it mean I have too much pressure
> in the main
> body where the sector shaft teeth meet the input shaft (asuming blown
> internal seal and HP ports are leaking into chamber)? How
> does the fluid
> get into this chamber, is it just the return line fluid that fills up
> this chamber and the rest goes back to the pump?
>
> OX
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 11:06:12 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 steering box sector shaft adjustment screw sea l

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>
> Now you're way past my experience with these :-) Keep meaning to
> investigate one but haven't got around to it yet. I wonder if the service
> manual gets into that very much? If I think about it I will take a look.
>

I looked and it shows exploded views of the control housing, guts,
piston and input shaft. It shows nothing of the sector shaft exploded
view and or what parts go where. I checked 3 ford shop manuals, 69
truck, 70 car and 78 truck. I also checked haynes and chiltons. I can
also not get the control housing off the input shaft. I removed the dust
seal, the snap, ring and pressure seal. I removed the input shaft with
control housing and piston completely from the main housing. I still can
not get that conrol housing off. I could have sworn (I thought I had
done it and replaced the control guts plastic "0-ring" things once
before) that after you take off the snap ring, you could remove the
control housing, leaving the control guts exposed, and piston inside the
main housing.

OX
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 11:19:29 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mr Fixit

John LaG. writes: >>I was (and still am) of the philosopy that if there
was someone smart enough
to build something the first time, I'm smart enough to take it apart,
recognize what's broke, then put it back together so it works again. Well,
it usually works out OK. Sometimes I wind up with a useless piece of junk,
but heck it didn't work before I started on it, so I haven't lost anything
but some valuable time that I wanted to spend.

My philiphosy exactly. The 1st auromatic transmission I ever rebuilt was
in the mis 50's. A friend had one that refused to work correctly after it
got warmed up, so I asked the local Auto tranny guy if it would cost
anything extra if I brought him one in a basket to rebuild. He said as
long as it was all there that it would cost less, because it wouild already
be out of the vehicle and apart. We took it apart - rebuilt it(clutches
were slick down to the metal in spots) - put it back together and it worked
till he got rid of it several years and thousands of miles later. Been
doing it ever sense. I hate to pay someone else to do what I can do, and
If I don't do it right I can't blame anyone else. Got most of my tools by
buying them as I did a job and figuring out how much I spent Vs what it
wouild have cost to have it done.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 15:38:25 -0600
From: Dennis.Slama rexnord.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Electronic Ignition

I am transferring the ignition from a '75 to a '71 390ci and have figured
out the wiring except for one thing the '75 was an automatic and one wire
from the ignition box went to the Neutral Safety Switch but the '71 is a
manual. Does anyone know if this wire has voltage applied to it and if so
how much or does it go to ground when the automatic is in neutral? One
last thing this is not a Duraspark but something called SSI although all
the wiring and colors of wires are the same.
Thanks for your help.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 13:56:43 -0800
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Electronic Ignition

Where does it say SSI? On the module? If so, then it's still a Duraspark
system, just that the module is an aftermarket one. (I could be talking out
of my rear end, just a WAG...)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dennis.Slama rexnord.com [mailto:Dennis.Slama rexnord.com]
Sent: Monday, December 06, 1999 1:38 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Electronic Ignition


I am transferring the ignition from a '75 to a '71 390ci and have figured
out the wiring except for one thing the '75 was an automatic and one wire
from the ignition box went to the Neutral Safety Switch but the '71 is a
manual. Does anyone know if this wire has voltage applied to it and if so
how much or does it go to ground when the automatic is in neutral? One
last thing this is not a Duraspark but something called SSI although all
the wiring and colors of wires are the same.
Thanks for your help.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 17:45:07 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project

In a message dated 12/6/99 9:29:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tkbowman uswest.net writes:

>
> Great shots of the engine rebuild and detailing of the engine
> compartment. Did you use POR or an equivalent on the frame or other
> parts?

Thanks Tim. I used Eastwood's corroless primer and their chassis black.
The primer is supposed to go right over rust and bond. I originally didn't
plan on doing anything to the frame this year but my son wanted to spruce it
up. He scraped and wire brushed quite a bit. That's a big feat especially
considering he's only 10. Time will tell how well it holds up.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 20:29:36 -0600
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project

Awesome job Thom!!! I do love the looks of new Blue paint on an engine!!!
Have you had a chance to get it out on the road yet??? We wanna hear!!

Stu
Nuke GM!


At 05:45 PM 12/6/99 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 12/6/99 9:29:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>tkbowman uswest.net writes:
>
>>
>> Great shots of the engine rebuild and detailing of the engine
>> compartment. Did you use POR or an equivalent on the frame or other
>> parts?
>
> Thanks Tim. I used Eastwood's corroless primer and their chassis
black.
>The primer is supposed to go right over rust and bond. I originally didn't
>plan on doing anything to the frame this year but my son wanted to spruce it
>up. He scraped and wire brushed quite a bit. That's a big feat especially
>considering he's only 10. Time will tell how well it holds up.
>
>Stock Man
>1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
>1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
>1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 20:30:12 -0600
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project

Awesome job Thom!!! I do love the look of new Blue paint on a Ford engine!!!
Have you had a chance to get it out on the road yet??? We wanna hear!!

Stu
Nuke GM!


At 05:45 PM 12/6/99 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 12/6/99 9:29:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>tkbowman uswest.net writes:
>
>>
>> Great shots of the engine rebuild and detailing of the engine
>> compartment. Did you use POR or an equivalent on the frame or other
>> parts?
>
> Thanks Tim. I used Eastwood's corroless primer and their chassis
black.
>The primer is supposed to go right over rust and bond. I originally didn't
>plan on doing anything to the frame this year but my son wanted to spruce it
>up. He scraped and wire brushed quite a bit. That's a big feat especially
>considering he's only 10. Time will tell how well it holds up.
>
>Stock Man
>1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
>1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
>1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 03:00:39 +0000
From: "Robert Werner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ignition Stuff

What can you guys tell me about Mallory Ignitions, Jacob's Electronics, and NGK Plugs? I been thinkin bout doin some electric work, and I might buy somethin to work on, and I wanted to know if these products were any good. Thanks
Robert
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 22:05:28 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project

In a message dated 12/6/99 9:25:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
nukegm ford-trucks.com writes:

> Awesome job Thom!!! I do love the look of new Blue paint on a Ford
engine!!!
> Have you had a chance to get it out on the road yet??? We wanna hear!!

Thanks Stu! I haven't had it out on the road. The roads have been snowy
or wet for the last week straight. I was hopeful that they may dry up
today....no such luck. With all the time I spent detailing the motor I
don't want it to get "road srayed" until the paint fully cures. I'll be sure
to give a full report when I take it out.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 19:21:59 PST
From: "Christopher Worley"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project

I agree great job thom.

Chris
67 F100 352
93 F150 351


>From: Stu Varner
>Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: 1966 Engine Rebuild Project
>Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 20:30:12 -0600
>
>Awesome job Thom!!! I do love the look of new Blue paint on a Ford
>engine!!!
>Have you had a chance to get it out on the road yet??? We wanna hear!!
>
>Stu
>Nuke GM!
>
>
>At 05:45 PM 12/6/99 EST, you wrote:
> >In a message dated 12/6/99 9:29:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >tkbowman uswest.net writes:
> >
> >>
> >> Great shots of the engine rebuild and detailing of the engine
> >> compartment. Did you use POR or an equivalent on the frame or other
> >> parts?
> >
> > Thanks Tim. I used Eastwood's corroless primer and their chassis
>black.
> >The primer is supposed to go right over rust and bond. I originally
>didn't
> >plan on doing anything to the frame this year but my son wanted to spruce
>it
> >up. He scraped and wire brushed quite a bit. That's a big feat
>especially
> >considering he's only 10. Time will tell how well it holds up.
> >
> >Stock Man
> >1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
> >1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
> >1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
> >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
> >
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> >
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 20:46:41 -0600
From: Brett L Habben
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Clutch Forks

Steve,
Where is the number typically stamped? These are rusty and I can't find
the number.
Brett
Super75cab
>Can you still read the part #'s on the forks? That will tell you what
>application they're for...
>Steve & the Rockette
>
>> Brett L Habben wrote:
>>Folks,
>>Last month there was a thread about clutch fork clips. Today I was
>>digging through small block bellhousings and noticed two different fork
>>clip styles. One looks like a belt loop, with the fork spring looking
>>like a money clasp and is inserted through the loop. The second style
is
>>solid with a pair of dog ears on the sides.
>>Which applications get which style? Is one newer?


___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 06 Dec 1999 20:28:27 PST
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: Fwd: FTE 61-79 - Ignition Stuff

>
>What can you guys tell me about Mallory Ignitions, Jacob's Electronics, and
>NGK Plugs?

I Have used NGK's in a few Ford trucks and had great luck with them.
What turned me on to NGK's was snowmobiling and motorcycling.
I once bought a new snowmobile that had champions in it from the factory. I
never even made it out of the garage before they fouled. In went the NGKs
and never had a problem. Also had good results in a 1969 skidoo single
have that is *very* hard on plugs. That old sled looks kinda cool in the
back of my truck, correct for the period, of course :-)

Don Jones
1970 f-250 4x4 ~FORDZILLA~

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 00:32:52 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: 1966 Assembly manuals

Hi gang. Over the course of the past year, several of you
orders a 1966 Ford Truck Assembly Manual from our online
store. In each case, we had to email you that the product
was not in stock because our supplier had not yet sent the
product to press. I'm happy to announce that this manual,
along with all the other assembly manuals listed in the
web store, are now available. The 1967 manual was an
invaluable guide for me the last time I went to a junkyard
to pull parts.

Later,
Ken Payne
Admin

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 00:41:39 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 400 ing timmin

In a message dated 12/6/99 8:15:29 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:


accurate. I find it hard to believe that anyone can find TDC any closer than
10 or 15 degrees by rotating the crank and feeling for piston movement. If
you don't have a degree wheel you can also just mark the pulley and some
part of the block which is located well for this as a pointer or bolt on a
pointer, install a positive stop and rotate it both ways and mark the pully
to the pointer in both positions then split the difference to get TDC. >>

You know, I might have thought the same thing until I tried it. It is the
same procedure as you call out above. One hand on the dowel the other on the
wrench rotating the crank, eyes on the balancer. Rotate engine one direction
until you think the piston has stopped mark it, then rotate crank in the
....


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