From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #448
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61-79-list-digest Sunday, December 5 1999 Volume 03 : Number 448



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Water Heated spacer
FTE 61-79 - Re: engine dieing
FTE 61-79 - Vacuam Gauges/ Timing
RE: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing
FTE 61-79 - clutch
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: engine dieing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Timing Marks
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: engine dieing
RE: FTE 61-79 - Timing Marks
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing
FTE 61-79 - Radiator ID
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing
FTE 61-79 - Sick 460
FTE 61-79 - 302 oil fouling
FTE 61-79 - New Guy
Re: FTE 61-79 - New Guy
FTE 61-79 - New Family Member
FTE 61-79 - Welcome to the `pile` :)
Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 oil fouling
Re: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing
Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 oil fouling
FTE 61-79 - Engine Decals
FTE 61-79 - cab and bed rubber mounts
FTE 61-79 - Original Wheels & Radials
Re: FTE 61-79 - Original Wheels & Radials

=======================================================================

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 11:12:02 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Water Heated spacer

I doubt if the I-6 has a heat soak problem due to the air flow around the
manifolds. On a V8 the manifold is really closely involved with all the
warmest parts of the engine so carb base heat is not an issue. My pinto and
Festiva also had water heat to the base of the carb and the Festiva had
icing problems as did the escorts if the stove was not working properly but
got darned good mileage :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> 6's. I can't remember if it was Clifford, Sissell, or
> whoever, but one
> of them markets a new water heated carb spacer just for this purpose.
> Their argument for this approach was superior temperature
> regulation. And
> it may just be to prevent carb icing. Or how about this
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 11:16:44 -0500
From: "james burnette"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: engine dieing

I had a similar problem with my 71 F-100. It would die on occasion after
running for several minutes. Sometimes it would not die for weeks on end. It
drove me crazy. The problem turned out to be a plugged pick-up tube in the
tank. It seems the float had a rubber cushion around it. Probably to prevent
noise. This rubber cushion had broken in pieces and occasionally a piece
would plug the pickup tube.

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 08:40:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Vacuam Gauges/ Timing

>I can't make out the markings
>on the
> balancer very good >>

Someone got a little happy with the Krylon at one time
likely.

The problem with sanding is that the paint is in the
grooves, not the face so what I do is dab some
chemical stripper just on that one place. After it's
done , wipe it off with a rag and whatever antedote it
reccommends, but, DONT GET IT ON THE RUBBER!!!! This
will clean out the grooves pretty well. To protect
it, put a very light shot of paint on it, just enough
to cover the face, I've in fact done this on my back
under the vehicle, it doesn't seem to get into the
grooves as bad.

Then what I do before I set the timing is mark a spot
close to where I want to set it at(like 10d) by
scribing across a little wider than the mark so it
stands out, smear a little lithiun grease over the
area (it will pick up light)and do it.

Sounds like more work than it is, but getting your
timing right is worth it. BTW, the "kick it up till
it pings and back it off a couple" method will work if
you have enough cylinder pressure to make it ping.
Some engines don't.

I like to use a vacuam gauge. And the best is to
install one in your truck so you can monitor the
engine's condition going down the road. You'll see
when your points get sloppy, or your choke is sticking
by seeing the fluctuations in that gauge. My dad
swore by them, and we tuned with it. If the vacuam
drops an inch the points are closing up, if it ticks
up a little high and back to normal your distributor
bushings are going, or you've got some valves that
need adjusting. If it ticks down, you've sprung a
vacuam leak or your losing cylider pressure in a
cylinder. It is one gauge that I never understood why
they never came stock in a vehicle. Anyone towing
should have one for sure.

To set your timing with a vacuam guage you have to
make sure you have no vacuam leaks, your vacuam
advance (this works the easiest with manifold ported
advance, BTW) is good, your points are set with a
dwell meter, The distributor isn't worn out*(which
you'll see with the dwell meter, the dwell will be all
over the place if it's worn out) , and your carb is as
close to right as you can get it(they are never
perfect in except but 70 degree dry weather)

Hook up the guage, with your advance also hooked
up(important, if it's spark ported advance the idle
needs to be down, and when you drive it you have to
listen for light load ping), and simply bump it up
till you get the highest steady reading at your
favored idle setting. Sometimes you have to bump it a
little and set the idle back down to take the
centrifugal advance out of the picture(most give 2d at
1000 rpms) You want to get it right on the lower edge
of the highest vacuam reading. Drive it and it should
have good power and not ping. If it pings there are
some things you can do to get to keep the initial
timing, by reducing the amount of advance at that
point where it pings, or back the initial down just
till it quits pinging. You will be very close to the
highest vacuam reading, maybe even still have it when
it's all said and done.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 11:47:44 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing

There is another possibility if the problem is random and not predictable.
If wires to the coil are susceptible to deterioration from under hood heat
as are the terminals in the "cap" that connects them to the coil. Make sure
you have good connections there and the wires have no "green" spots on them
which indicates corrosion under the insulation. This is very common on old
trucks.

There is also the big rubber plugs that connect the dizzy and module to the
harness. Check them out, wiggle them while trying to start the engine etc.
and unplug and re-plug them to clean off the contacts and see if it helps.
They are the single weakest point in ford ignition systems, bar none on
older trucks.

If it is predictable and happens under the same conditions every time or
most of the time these suggestions are probably not the problem.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> day because it starts right back up, but its really annoying,,,and
> embarressing, i cant find out whats wrong with it,,,,I
> rebuilt the carb, had
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 11:43:09 -0600
From: JOHN E DOLSON
Subject: FTE 61-79 - clutch

PS: I just purchase a Borg Warner clutch and pressure plate for my truck.
The clutch is copper clad and has several pieces which look like brake
pads
attatched to it instead of the usual flat material like every other
clutch
Ive seen all my life. The "pads" are supposed to have kevlar impegnated
in
them. Before I put this in, anyone have any experience with this setup?
Good or bad.


What you are describing sounds an awful lot like the clutches that are
used in most big/HD trucks I work on.
these clutch discs aren't even round, but are shaped like a rounded off
"plus sign" ( + ). Bonded to each arm of the disc is a piece of friction
material, about 1/8 inch thick, that looks much like a brake pad. The
disc part is usually made of steel. These clutches work very well in
trucks, and last a long time. I would assume they'd give more pressure on
the flywheel because the pressure is distributed onto a smaller area,
than a regular round disc type clutch.

John Dolson
Jefferson City, MO
1976 F150 Ranger XLT

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 12:44:38 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: engine dieing

My 1968 F-250 4x4 has an intermittent short in the ignition circuit. I
tracked it down to the brown lead on the starter solenoid. Oddly enough it
runs without it. I think the brown lead supplies 12v to the coil when
starting. Maybe someone can confirm this. When my truck shorts out I
usually just pull the Brown wire and it starts right up and runs fine. I
have always been able to reconnect it later and it seems to function
correctly again. Intermittent electrical problems are hard to diagnose. You
really have to observe the symptoms to try to make an intelligent diagnosis.
Simply trying to replace all the components doesn't always work. I hope you
find a solution to your problem.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 12:47:13 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Timing Marks

It helps to turn the balancer so the marks are facing bottom. This gives you
a better view and more room to work from under the vehicle.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 13:09:37 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: engine dieing

it almost NEVER works unless you have a pretty good idea what's happening.
I once spent $300 on parts for the festiva thinking it had to be electrical
since I had just done a valve job not too long before so I never even tested
for valves.......the center exhuast valves were toasted again, just like
they were when I redid the head so there was some other problem in the fuel
or ignition or emissions causing it to run way too lean but I
assumed.......:-(

Got to get me a good, press in, compression tester one day :-) Don't even
talk to me about thread in types, been there done that, don't like 'em :-)
After last night I don't like the threaded connectors on video cables
either, it's press on for me from now on :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Simply trying to replace all the components doesn't always
> work. I hope you
> find a solution to your problem.
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 13:18:04 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Timing Marks

Or you could put it on your lift and ........:-) I'm sorry, just can't help
it :-( After 30 years of lying on my back and waking up with a wry neck in
the morning it is just too exciting to have a lift....:-)

I do agree though it's usually much easier to get at from underneath and
actually not all that bad since you can lay to the side and just reach up
there and polish it. I also have a creeper and sometimes use it even though
I have the lift (these work much better on a smooth cement floor than in a
gravel driveway but still better than lying on the stones :-)) :-) Some
jobs are simply too small to bother with all the lining up of the ears
etc.......

I usually use a wire brush along with some sand paper to clean out the
lines. If you have a die grinder and small wire wheel this would be the
excellent choice IMHO :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> It helps to turn the balancer so the marks are facing bottom.
> This gives you
> a better view and more room to work from under the vehicle.
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 16:26:39 EST
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing

I cant decide whether it is due to air temperature or hitting a bump,,,,most
of the time when it stalls it seems to be because i hit a large bump or
something similiar, but then when it got really cold last week it didn't
stall once,,,,but now that its warmed back up its stalling like crazy again

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 16:28:45 -0500
From: "Gary L. Perry"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Radiator ID

Have rad from Ford, maybe older than this list.
Wanna know what from. Id on tank says:
TAAM-AI or 1
------------------
P MO
58 2
Is this from 58 year?
My catalogues show B9TT 8005Hor A or N for 56, which I'm looking for.
Need rad for 56 COE and rad support and side mounts.
Anyone have parts books for old COE stuff?
"G"

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 16:30:35 EST
From: TWL1911 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing

Hey
now if im correct your probqaly running a holley, and certain holleys will
dump excess fuel into the venturies when you hit a large bump. i know this
because when i race figure 8 cars we get carbs that dump the fuel into the
carb not onto a hot engine, sounds like you may need to replace the seals and
slowdown a bit. hope this helps
Travis
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 16:34:44 EST
From: IanBoss69 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing

Well hate to say it but its not a holley,,,its a wimpy 2bbl
motorcraft,,,recently rebuilt,,,

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 14:49:40 -0700
From: William A Whited
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Sick 460

Well I got some bad news the 77 I just got appears
to have a bad rod in the 460, my mechanic which I trust
pretty well, wants to have it rebuilt. He wants to
pull her out and check everything out and make sure all
is when in the bottom end, the heads were recently
redone before I purchased her. Since he is going to
have her apart we want to put a good rv cam in her.
She has a C-6 and I believe 3:23 rear end. I'm not too
worried about fuel mileage just as long I get around 10
mph, I'd like something with some rumble but still
drive able. What do you guys think? TIA

- --
William A Whited
74 F100 RANGER SUPERCAB 390
77 F150 CUSTOM 460
EL Paso, TX
SEMPER FI


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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 16:37:39 -0600
From: Brent l Byers
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 302 oil fouling

On my old 302. Number 8 spark plug fouls instantly. compression checks
out at 120 psi on first crank, valve train appears to be operating
correctly, but there is a total miss when running. Can the valve guide
be THAT toasted? Is there an intake leak on that cylinder underneath the
intake manifold? btw, this car has been taken to the moon and Mars a
couple of times so it does have a lot of highway and interstellar miles
on it. (no drugs involved ;) Besides the list, please send reply to me
also as I am in digest mode.
___________________________________________________________________
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 17:17:35 -0800
From: "Chuck White"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New Guy

Just signed on and want to know if I can post. I've recently purchased a
'71 F-250 with a punched up 390 in it, (cam, edelbrock, holley, mallory dual
point, headers), C-6 and what I think is a Dana rear - haven't climbed under
the back end yet still rebuilding the front discs and playing with the
steering. Boy is it sloppy (the steering). Anyway hello to you all and I
hope to see this posted so I can tell if the e-mail is working. I sent
something the other day but I don't know if I did it right or if it takes a
few days to be posted. Chuck

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 20:29:36 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New Guy

In a message dated 12/4/99 8:18:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
chuckebabe jps.net writes:

> I sent
> something the other day but I don't know if I did it right or if it takes a
> few days to be posted.

Welcome! New messages do not take days. They are usually posted within a
few minutes if not sooner. You will get them as they are distributed if you
are in the "live" mode. Messages will be mailed to you in a packet if your
in "digest" mode. The digest distribution is automatic and based on the
volume of messages posted. Distribution is no less than once daily, but
lately due to the list traffic it's been a few times per day. At any rate,
this is the place for questions about your truck. So ask away.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 20:44:15 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New Family Member

The ' 63 is home safe in the driveway now. I called the guy about 3:00
today and left him a message. I went out to work on the garage and waited
for him to call. Next thing I know, I hear the beautiful sound of a Ford 9N
coming across his field. Sure enough, here comes my "new" truck. Luckily he
made it across the highway. He got about10ft into the driveway and his
tractor ran out of gas!
I posed a question awhile ago about the ignition having some kind of plug
for the switch on the ' 64. The ' 63 does, I assume the ' 64 did at one
time also.
Lots of decent sheet metal to be had. Lots of tearing apart to be done
!!!!!!!!!!!! I think I got my $200 worth.

Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
' 63 F-100
parts truck

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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 19:27:37 -0800
From: "JOHN B. HELLDORFER"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Welcome to the `pile` :)

You write
>>Just signed on and want to know if I can post. I've recently purchased a
'71 F-250 with a punched up 390 in it, (cam, edelbrock, holley, mallory dual
point, headers), C-6 and what I think is a Dana rear - haven't climbed under
the back end yet still rebuilding the front discs and playing with the
steering. Boy is it sloppy (the steering). Anyway hello to you all and I
hope to see this posted so I can tell if the e-mail is working. I sent
something the other day but I don't know if I did it right or if it takes a
few days to be posted. Chuck


Just ask as you see fit! I have been lucky to find some of the very best
advice there is on the Old 72 I own.....
There is one thing in general that these posts will do for Ya>>>>
SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY!!!

MY 72 is alive and well thanks to what I have read here.



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.
__JOHN__տ
ICQ#6030753
http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2-1.jpg



http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2-2.jpg


http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html
>>



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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 22:52:35 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 oil fouling

In a message dated 12/4/99 5:39:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wiregoat juno.com writes:


out at 120 psi on first crank, valve train appears to be operating
correctly, but there is a total miss when running. Can the valve guide
be THAT toasted? Is there an intake leak on that cylinder underneath the
intake manifold? btw, this car has been taken to the moon and Mars a
couple of times so it does have a lot of highway and interstellar miles
on it. (no drugs involved ;) Besides the list, please send reply to me
also as I am in digest mode. >>

It is doubtful that the valve guide is worn that bad, and still being able to
get good compression all of the time. A quick check on the health of the
valve guides is to observe the needle on a vacuum gage. If it wavers back
and forth, it generally means a guide or guides are worn to the point where
the valve does not always stay centered and sometimes does not seat properly
thus the fluctuation of the needle.

However, what does happen sometimes, and I do not Know how many miles this
engine has, is the valve seals crack and break free from the valve stems.
These seal are just umbrella type and designed to prevent splash from being
sucked down the valve guide, they will not and can not seal out flooding of
the area. But the pieces of these seals collect in the oil return drains of
the heads and plug them tight. The oil can not leave the head by normal
means, and must build up and overflow into the area where the push rod come
up. Because #8 cylinder is the aft most drivers side, it and #4 are the
lowest points due to the slight upward tilt of the engine installation.
Additionally on the drivers side the aft most valve is an intake. Now if the
aft drain hole is plugged, oil will Flood #8 intake valve stem and guide.
Whether or not the umbrella seal is in place or not the result is a quickly
fouled #8 spark plug. I would remove the valve cover on the drivers side and
verify the oil return hole is free and clear. If it is start looking else
where.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 23:02:49 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - engine dieing

In a message dated 12/3/99 11:46:18 PM Eastern Standard Time,
IanBoss69 aol.com writes:


ignition switch ( thick pink with gray stripe) likes to heat up when the
key
is on but the truck isnt running. when its running its fine,,,,anyways
thats
my sometimes it works and sometimes it dont problem,,,i was planning to
rewire the thing soon,,,,there goes another 250 bucks,,,,yay
>>
That wire is supposed to heat up it is a resistor wire. As for the stalling,
unplug and remove the electronic ignition box and have it tested (it is free)
at most parts shops, bet you lunch that you will find your problem there.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 20:08:49 -0800
From: "JOHN B. HELLDORFER"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 oil fouling

Here is a Long Shot. Have you replaced the valve seats lately (valve
Job).....
My oil consumption was out of site. My engine man wanted to do a valve
job.ALL the EXHAUST valves were UP .100 or more Compression was 145 to 155
in all cylinders..
I guess Iam saying Maybe you have a valve that is starting to Suck in to the
head? My Valve guide seals were Very Hard and went south Many miles ago.




- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To: ;
Sent: Saturday, December 04, 1999 7:52 PM
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 302 oil fouling


> In a message dated 12/4/99 5:39:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> wiregoat juno.com writes:
>
>
checks
> out at 120 psi on first crank, valve train appears to be operating
> correctly, but there is a total miss when running. Can the valve guide
> be THAT toasted? Is there an intake leak on that cylinder underneath the
> intake manifold? btw, this car has been taken to the moon and Mars a
> couple of times so it does have a lot of highway and interstellar miles
> on it. (no drugs involved ;) Besides the list, please send reply to me
> also as I am in digest mode. >>
>
> It is doubtful that the valve guide is worn that bad, and still being able
to
> get good compression all of the time. A quick check on the health of the
> valve guides is to observe the needle on a vacuum gage. If it wavers back
> and forth, it generally means a guide or guides are worn to the point
where
> the valve does not always stay centered and sometimes does not seat
properly
> thus the fluctuation of the needle.
>
> However, what does happen sometimes, and I do not Know how many miles this
> engine has, is the valve seals crack and break free from the valve stems.
> These seal are just umbrella type and designed to prevent splash from
being
> sucked down the valve guide, they will not and can not seal out flooding
of
> the area. But the pieces of these seals collect in the oil return drains
of
> the heads and plug them tight. The oil can not leave the head by normal
> means, and must build up and overflow into the area where the push rod
come
> up. Because #8 cylinder is the aft most drivers side, it and #4 are the
> lowest points due to the slight upward tilt of the engine installation.
> Additionally on the drivers side the aft most valve is an intake. Now if
the
> aft drain hole is plugged, oil will Flood #8 intake valve stem and guide.
> Whether or not the umbrella seal is in place or not the result is a
quickly
> fouled #8 spark plug. I would remove the valve cover on the drivers side
and
> verify the oil return hole is free and clear. If it is start looking else
> where.
> Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 21:22:46 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Engine Decals

The decal on my OEM engine, with the info on emissions and tune-up
specs, is largely unreadable. Are replacements available anywhere?

Denny
'72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 00:28:43 EST
From: JJJJJGRANT aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cab and bed rubber mounts

anybody no where to get the rubber biscuits that are in between the brame and
body? the extended cab i'm working on needs a few replaced, will probably
have to replace all for the body to be straight.

jeff grant
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 23:43:51 -0800
From: Carver
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Original Wheels & Radials

I had been looking to get radials for my truck using the
original steel wheels, but heard something from a couple
of sources that made me think twice.

The orginal wheels weren't designed for the loading that
is involved with radial tires, so although they may appear
to work fine, after a couple of years, they begin to fail
by splitting apart.

Has anyone on this list heard of this problem, had any
experience, or words of wisdom?

I ended up getting orginal size bias plys, and when the
money is availalbe, spring for a set of brand new original
style rims for radials from Stockton Tire.

It handles sooo much better with new tires, new bushings
and better springs.

Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 01:22:42 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Original Wheels & Radials

Carver wrote:
>
> I had been looking to get radials for my truck using the....


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