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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #441
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, November 30 1999 Volume 03 : Number 441



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer
Re: FTE 61-79 - cab on, no brakes
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tetraethyl Lead
Re: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer
RE: FTE 61-79 - cab on, no brakes
RE: FTE 61-79 - FE Electric Fuel Pump?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Theoretical FE question
RE: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer
FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump
FTE 61-79 - A LiL Mo Info
FTE 61-79 - 78 PS box top seal/windshield replacement.
RE: FTE 61-79 - FE Electric Fuel Pump?
FTE 61-79 - going to Colorado, need parts!
RE: FTE 61-79 - 302
Re: FTE 61-79 - going to Colorado, need parts!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump
RE: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer
RE: FTE 61-79 - Transmission Lube
Re: FTE 61-79 - going to Colorado, need parts!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Compressor/ Water Tanks
RE: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer
Re: FTE 61-79 - going to Colorado, need parts!
FTE 61-79 - cummins turbo in a ford
FTE 61-79 - brake problems
FTE 61-79 - FE Electric Fuel Pump?
FTE 61-79 - Motor fried/Speed pro piston rings and bearings
RE: FTE 61-79 - brake problems
FTE 61-79 - octane
FTE 61-79 - 352/351 swap
FTE 61-79 - Mumbling Dave
RE: FTE 61-79 - Motor fried/Speed pro piston rings and bearings
RE: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer
FTE 61-79 - Fuel pump blocking FE engine
FTE 61-79 - Re: FE Electric Fuel Pump?
FTE 61-79 - Re: electric fuel pumps
RE: FTE 61-79 - Fuel pump blocking FE engine
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: FE Electric Fuel Pump?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Compressor/ Water Tanks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Electric Fuel Pump/now insurance disclaimer
RE: FTE 61-79 - Suggestions
Re: FTE 61-79 - Best Compressor
RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump
RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump
RE: FTE 61-79 - Apprenticeship
RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump
RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump
RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump

=======================================================================

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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:31:27 -0700
From: "Michael White"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer

> Folks,
> Is there such thing as a water heated 4v carb spacer as discussed last
> month pertaining to fuel economy? I dug through a pile of manifolds at
> the junk yard and found a couple of Ford water heated 2v carb spacers,
> but no 4v versions.
> Has anybody ever seen one? What applications?
> Thanks,
> Brett
> Super75cab
> 300 w/Offie intake, 87 split exhaust manifolds, and consequently no heat.
...............

I removed the 4bbl intake & spacer from a 67 F100 4x4 with a 352 and
used it when converting a 360 2bbl into a 390 4bbl for one of my 69 F250's.
Somebody on this list has mentioned the advantages of having this spacer,
but I can't recall who it was or what those advantages might be.

Danger
danger csolutions.net


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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 03:41:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Daniel DiMartino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - cab on, no brakes

sounds simple, but is the return spring attached correctly?


=====
Daniel DiMartino

1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 03:51:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Daniel DiMartino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tetraethyl Lead

burt
so do todays gas with non lead gas additives that can be bought
from an auto parts store give the same performance (octaine
boost) and added lubrication the good old leaded gases gave? i
would assume careful mixing is the key in any application.


=====
Daniel DiMartino

1968 F-250 soon to be a 4x4
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 03:54:05 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer

As a matter of fact i have seen one, it is in the truck im working on in my
driveway. I thought it was odd i have never seen one before.

Michael White wrote:

> > Folks,
> > Is there such thing as a water heated 4v carb spacer as discussed last
> > month pertaining to fuel economy? I dug through a pile of manifolds at
> > the junk yard and found a couple of Ford water heated 2v carb spacers,
> > but no 4v versions.
> > Has anybody ever seen one? What applications?
> > Thanks,
> > Brett
> > Super75cab
> > 300 w/Offie intake, 87 split exhaust manifolds, and consequently no heat.
> ...............
>
> I removed the 4bbl intake & spacer from a 67 F100 4x4 with a 352 and
> used it when converting a 360 2bbl into a 390 4bbl for one of my 69 F250's.
> Somebody on this list has mentioned the advantages of having this spacer,
> but I can't recall who it was or what those advantages might be.
>
> Danger
> danger csolutions.net
>
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 07:58:32 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - cab on, no brakes

Yes, you need to remove the booster and the bellcrank linkage behind it and
take it apart and clean and lube it. The pivot pins have seized and won't
allow the pedal to return. There is also a pin in the pedal itself which
should have a plastic bushing and therefore needs no lube but you can lub
that too if you like or if you find it is metal to metal. The booster and
MC springs are the only return springs on the brake pedal AFAIK.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> press on the brakes, they'll stop the truck just fine,
> however the pedal wont come back up unless I pull it
> up.
>
> Anyone have any Ideas?
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:19:21 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - FE Electric Fuel Pump?

Ok, I have used them and like them very much. I made my own covers and in
fact, you can route the fuel through the stock pump and use it along with
the electric if you like. Mount the pump as close to the tank as you can,
wire it through an oil pressure safety switch which can be mounted between
the gallery plug hole and the sender for your oil pressure gauge with a
single wire to the battery via a toggle switch in the cab and ground the
pump real, real well at it's mount.

Now the oil pressure switch is a law! You can not legally install an
electric fuel pump with out a safety shut off which either uses impact like
the new cars or an oil pressure switch. You must use one or the
other......NEVER HOOK ONE UP DIRECT!!! If you are in a wreck which causes a
fire and the insurance company determines you did not have it correctly
hooked up they are not obligated to pay, it's that simple :-( This could
also affect your liability coverage as well.

To make the most of your electric pump use a three pole, three position,
on-off-on toggle switch so you can put it in safety position, on position or
off position for various diagnostic and cold weather start conditions. On
my pickup which had two tanks but now only one, I used the selector switch.
It was a perfect choice for me :-) I love mine and will continue to use
them til I die :-)

If you don't like the noise, mount it on a rubber base with a separate
ground wire to the frame. Sandwich the frame between two peices of rubber
with over size holes in the frame so there is no metal to metal contact and
the vibration will be less apparent from the cab. Personally I like to have
some sense that it is running from the cab so I know when it is working so I
isolate it at the frame (which actually prolongs it's life) but use steel
line against the fire wall to act as a drum. On the road you can't hear it
but at idle and when starting it's very apparent. To each his own I guess
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Who has put in an electric fuel pump for their FE?
>
> Do these units usually have the "safety cutoff switch" (in
> case of wreck)
> built in, or is that usually something extra?
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:44:39 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Theoretical FE question

The FE has some serious good qualities and a few bad ones as do all the
other ones you mention so it's a matter of choice really. Fe's are harder
to work on due to the head and intake design but how often do you have to go
in there? Fe's have lots of potential and those who say they are getting
rid of the gas hog are only kidding themselves because ANY engine can be
made to run efficiently with a little thought. It's not typically the
design series of the engine but how it is tuned that makes the difference so
work with what you have and make it run right, don't jump on the magic wagon
and try something different because it is the holy grail of enginedome :-)
There aint no such thing :-) They can all be made into silk purses, trust
me. Some may cost more to do it but it can be done and none of them is out
of reach or THAT much more expensive to tune well.

Building newer engine families will always be easier and cheaper than the
older ones due to volume and parts availability but even the flat heads have
a serious after market following and virtually all the parts can be
purchased new as needed even for these.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Over the years some have tossed their FE's in favor of a 351
> W/C/M(whatever) with all the work involved with swapping
> engine families.
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:58:54 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer

This would be easy to make if you can't find one. I'm sure Steve will have
the plans drawn up in a few minutes for us :-) The advantage is that it
keeps the carb at a constant temp, neither too hot nor too cold so fuel
vaporization happens more consistantly giving better economy and low speed
performance. At WOT is has a small effect on the temp of incoming air but
not significant in a street application. If you are drag racing then you
don't want such devices on your engine for sure but on the street, unless
you like living dangerously and illegally most of the time, you won't notice
the difference in your britches but you certainly will in your wallet :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > Folks,
> > Is there such thing as a water heated 4v carb spacer as

> Somebody on this list has mentioned the advantages of having
> this spacer,
> but I can't recall who it was or what those advantages might be.
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 05:59:14 PST
From: "James Stepke"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump

What are the advantages of having an electric pump over a mechanical?? Is
this a hard swap to do??? Would you also put a fuel pressure regulator up
by the carb to control the pressure and keep it running on steep inclines??
Thanks for the help
James
1979 F150 4x4 400

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:42:46 -0500
From: "J. Doss Halsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A LiL Mo Info

Hello, everyone

I would like to introduce myself. I am 42 years old, married with two
children ages 8 (boy) and 4 (girl). I am an electrical engineer with a
specialty in radar and array antennas. I live in No.VA. I have worked on
vehicles (and have had a truck of some description) all my adult life,
although I have had Ford Trucks for only the last 11 years. I have a
somewhat eclectic taste in my other vehicles, my first car was a Datsun
1600 roadster and my present daily driver is an Alfa Romeo Milano sedan.

My present truck is a '68 F250 camper special with Ranger trim, deluxe
two-tone paint, and a brand new 390. I rebuilt the engine this past spring.
This summer I took the cab off the frame, welded up some holes in the floor
boards and installed new cab mounts, painted the bottom of the cab and the
frame, all in the driveway of our suburban home. My wife was not amused. I
worked very fast, however and had the cab back on the frame in two weeks. I
installed the engine and added power steering (with Tim O'Conner's help).
If you lay underneath and look up, (or look in the engine compartment) it
looks like a new truck. I've got a good foundation, now I have to get on
with the bodywork and paint.

The list has been a big help to me and I sure enjoy reading it. I even post
occasionally. Thanks Ken for your efforts, and all of you for keeping it
the enjoyable forum that it is.

Doss Halsey


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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:03:12 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 78 PS box top seal/windshield replacement.

Hi all


Just curious about the job of replacing whatever seal needs to be
replaced on the top of my PS box, right near the adjustment nut. I
already have a complete seal kit I needed to buy to get the input seal a
few years ago.

Also wanted to say that I have finished installing a new windshield on
my 79 bronc. It was much harder to get out of a donor bronc than to get
it in. Needed to pry back gasket heavily on both left or right side
corners and apply a huge amount of soap. Even then I thought my brother
was going to put his hand through it trying to push it out so hard. :-)
I have new respect for how hard it is to trash one of these windshields.
I thought for sure it should have cracked about 100 times the way we had
to handle it sometimes.

I used slick 50 lubricant around the outside of the gasket and I
glued the gasket to the top of windshield in a bunch of spots, as the
gasket natually wants to come off the top edge of windshield. I used the
old gasket as it seemed in good shape. I used an 18 guage wire wrapped
around the gasket. It pulled out easily and windshield slipped right in
with a little pressure from the outside. Went in 100 times easier than I
thought it would. The lower corners were a little tough, as the metal in
the body that holds the windshield in was overlapped slightly at that
point and it started to rip the inside of gasket. A small screwdriver
prying the gasket in helped me past this point. Also, when you get to
the top on both sides, the wire wants to slide through as it should be
lubed up good. I again used a small screwdriver to help the gasket
inside while pulling on both end sof the wire to keep it from sliding
one way or the other.

I did not use any sealer while installing, as even the ford factory
manual says to seal it as needed after install. I used clear windsheild
sealer after installing on the top and sides, but it was a little runny
and did not seal the top corners well. Seemed to be ok everywhere else.
Used a bit of clear silicone on the upper corners to finish up sealing
it. I did not do this, but I would recommend using sealer on the bottom
of gasket before install as you can't lift of that edge of gasket and
apply it later on the bottom part. It leaked like crazy with no sealer,
but I have not checked for leaks after applying the sealer. Guess I'll
find out with the next hard rain.


OX
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:06:22 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - FE Electric Fuel Pump?

> I made my own covers and in
> fact, you can route the fuel through the stock pump and use it along with
> the electric if you like.

This was my first thought, both pumps should also work independently of each
other (ie only use the electric to prime the motor or when the old one
fails) ... unless you get a positive displacement pump or something weird
like that ...

> Now the oil pressure switch is a law! You can not legally install an
> electric fuel pump with out a safety shut off which either uses
> impact like
> the new cars or an oil pressure switch.


I dunno about the oil pressure switch being a law, but it is a good idea at
any rate ... the impact switches that the new cars have aren't that hard to
wire up (usually just 2 wires and a plunger) and are easily reset ... I
would lean towards this to avoid things like starting after an oil change or
faulty oil pressure switches ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:14:34 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - going to Colorado, need parts!

Jayson,

You're in luck, there are quite a few good body panels to be had here. I see
where you need a new box? Did you need a shortbox? If you have a longbed, I
happen to have an 8-foot box (very little rust) sitting in my backyard for
73-79..........

Let me know,

Colorado Jeff (CJ)
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:14:46 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 302

Jayson, you're close, the last guy had it right though ...

86 they were all fuel injected ... 85 only the auto's were injected ... 83-4
injection was an option on the autos .... maybe only 84 non GT's though ...
the carbs were likely 600cfm's in 83-85, but 82 was a 2V (I had one) ... 82
was the first of the "HO" motors, but they went through several revisions
...

82 had an SROD (3spd w/OD, 4 total gears), then they went to the 5spd in 83
... though some early 83's I think still carried the 4spd, as well as late
82's having the 5 spd ... confused yet ?

To add to the confusion in 81 at least, maybe 80 as well, they didn't make a
5.0 in a 'stang, they had a 255ci motor (4.2L?) but this motor shared the
bolt patterns and stuff with the 5.0 ... not sure at all what it looked
like, but they weren't stock if someone claims a 5.0 in an 81 ...

> Mustangs came with carbed (600 cmf) 302's until 1986
> then they went to fuel injection. I think they had 4
> speeds in 79 and 80 but the rest are T5 5speeds. It
> would be alot of work dropping a 5 spd mustang tranny
> in an older ford truck. The linkage in the older
> trucks is mechanical while in the Mustangs the linkage
> is cable driven. I would also wonder about the
> position of the shifter. Later ford p/ups came with 5
> speeds but they do not have mechanical clutches
> either.
>

Actually the 'stangs don't have any external linkages, its a single rod
(Single rod over drive for 82 SROD if I remember my acronyms correctly),
that makes the shift levers move inside the tranny ... the clutch is indeed
cable activated though ... the trick is going to be lining up the hole for
the gear shift and finding a lever to operate it without reaching under the
seat or something silly ...

The clutch it seems like can be used in stock form with a stock bellhousing
... hunt around on the net, seems like somewhere I found about putting the
5spd's in early 'stangs, I think the clutch stuff from them would apply as
well ...


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:21:30 EST
From: Mikerenf aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - going to Colorado, need parts!

Hello
depending on what parts and where you are going to live. I live in grand
junction, CO. which is on the West end of the state. And found a 66 f 100
truck with very little corrosion. Fixing it up right now.

Mike
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:27:17 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump

> What are the advantages of having an electric pump
> over a mechanical??

Supposed reliability ... lots of people have had problems with their FE fuel
pumps failing and leaving them stranded ... so an electric would sort of
solve this problem (by relying on a different pump), though I'm a big fan of
redundant systems if you are going to install an electric ...

> this a hard swap to do???

Not really, can you wire and plumb a pump ?

> Would you also put a fuel pressure
> regulator up
> by the carb to control the pressure and keep it running on steep
> inclines??

Uhm ... yeah ... both... the regulator doesn't actually keep it running on
inclines though, that's the pump's job ... you need to keep the pressure
down around 7psi if I remember right, though rumor is that holley can be
finicky and need down around 5 so that you don't blow the needle valve off
the seat through sheer pressure ...

Hope that helped out ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:28:04 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer

> Brett, I have one of those aluminum heated carb spacers sitting on a
> shelf. I think mine came from a '66 Galaxie with a 352 and an Autolite
> 4100 4bbl carb.
>
Same here, off of a 65 Galaxie 390 though ...

so I'd guess the mid 60's galaxie's had them ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:38:49 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Transmission Lube

There is a difference between engine oil and gear lube. Since the manuals
seem to agree that engine oil is correct for a tranny I presume the "high
pressure" aspect of the gear lube is not deemed necessary for this like it
is for the differential. If I could find it I would still use 50wt
synthetic gear lube rather than engine oil in my own transmissions and
transfer cases but I could be wasting my time and money messing with it and
even could be dead wrong in my reasoning but that's how I see it. A
transmisssion still has serious pressures between the metal gear teeth under
load so will engine oil protect it well enough? Apparently the engineers
think so, eh?

I'm using 75-90 synthetic right now but when I get ready to rebuild I will
be going to the lighter oil myself :-) Local auto parts stores have the
Mobil 1, 50wt synthetic in straight form so this is the obvious choice for
me I guess.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Any opinions on this one? The owner's manual for my '72 F-100 360 2WD
> 4-speed manual, with140K on it, recommends engine oil SAE 50 for the
> transmisson.
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:46:27 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - going to Colorado, need parts!

Thanks for your message at 09:41 PM 11/29/99 -0800, Jayson Spangler. Your
message was:
>I'm moving to Colorado and I was wondering if anyone
>can tell me how hard it is to find body parts in
>Colorado? Im in MO right now and everything here is
>rusted. Please tell me I can find body parts out
>there.
>Anybody?

What do you need? An arm? A leg? A kidney? Try ebay...


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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:51:04 -0500
From: Marvin Meyer
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Compressor/ Water Tanks

It's the flow through the head you need. If you have a 20 scfm (Standard
Cubic Feet /Minute) that is plenty with reserve. Mine is 24scfm and I run a
large sandblaster nozzle rated at 18scfm plus at the same time a friend can
run an impact taking wheels off the car. You can even run an impact off a
air pig for just cracking the nuts.
A cheap way of creating a system is using old hot water tanks. The older
ones are made of steel, rated at 125 W P (water pressure) and you have lots
of surface area to remove moisture. I've installed two for a total of 120
gal of storage Capacity. The head I bought used out of the local Tri-ad
(Same as thrifty nickel). However I did buy a brand new 5Hp motor 220V ball
bearing, service factor of 1.14 ( can run 14% over rating for short heavy
loads). With sandblasting, you can run a compressor for upto 3hrs non-stop
if you have the ability to stand there. And it will never run out of
pressure. A safety relief valve is installed on the tank too.
Settings for mine are off 105-- On 90 .

My compressor house is out side, a small lean to style shed built out of a
machine crate from work, 50" deep X 90" long X 6' high. Insulated on inside
for noise, warmth, painted to reduce eye sore to my neighbors.
Total cost = $700CDN
Marvin
meyer strat.net

>My Father has a 25 gal craftsman (made by devilbiss)oil-less >compressor
and has had a quite a bit of trouble with it considering >the amount of
use it gets.


>20 gallon comp. is barely big enough! Won't run air sanders,
>or some ipacts w/out running all the time and slowing you down
>waiting for it to catch-up. I would get an upright 60-80 gallon
>tank w/5or6 hp motor minimum

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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:55:54 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer

Thanks for your message at 08:58 AM 11/30/99 -0500, Peters, Gary (G.R.).
Your message was:

If you are drag racing then you
>don't want such devices on your engine for sure but on the street, unless
>you like living dangerously and illegally most of the time, you won't notice
>the difference in your britches but you certainly will in your wallet :-)

I've been reading this over and over and I must be dense...What is the
danger ?


Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:03:49 CST
From: "Arnie G-well"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - going to Colorado, need parts!

I just pasted through the south-east corner of Colorado. Lamar,
Springfield, and Dumar (i think is the name of the last city), they all have
older Ford and others for sell right off the road. I didn't have time to
stop and check the prices. They didn't have any obvious signs of rust.
There were a few bone yards that looked to have quite a few trucks. When i
have time i will go back.

Hope this helps.


From: Mikerenf aol.com
Reply-To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - going to Colorado, need parts!
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:21:30 EST

Hello
depending on what parts and where you are going to live. I live in grand
junction, CO. which is on the West end of the state. And found a 66 f 100
truck with very little corrosion. Fixing it up right now.

Mike
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______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:56:13 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cummins turbo in a ford

>> wouldn't a turbo disel in an older ford truck be neat

Sorry, Jeff. No it wouldn't be neat IMNSHO. Diesels are great for the
highway, great for folks with big bucks for repair, great for businessmen
who need big write offs. Ditto for a turbo. Everyone I know personally who
bought one as a personal land yacht has since gone back to gasoline. Except
my little brother and he never had much sense anyway plus he has only had
his about a year. Crewcab, Powerstroke, 4x4, six speed manual, 1 ton. I
wouldn't take it as a gift.

Besides, if it ain't a Ford option engine it ain't a Ford anymore, right?
Aren't those the rules? What's the diff between putting in a Cummings and
putting in a Caddy 472? Wrong brand either way.

Flame retardant drawers on and secured....

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:45:11 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - brake problems

>> Okay guys,
I have got a problem i haven't had time to investigate yet!! I drove my
truck around the yard the other day and it drained the front resevoir on the
brake Master Cylinder!! I filled it and drove for about 5 min and it did it
again!! I did a quick look and couldn't find any fluid leaking but i am not
for sure!! Any ideas where to start. It is a 1979 F150 400 V8 and 4x4!
Also this truck has only been driven three times since it sat for 8 years!!

Thanks in advance
James

My truck, 1979 2x4, does/did the same thing. The problem on my truck has to
lie in the proportioning valve as this and the master cylinder are the only
two devices where the front circuit and rear circuit share the same housing.
There is some method to reset the pv, but mine is stuck. I drilled a 1/4
inch hole between the reservoirs as high as possible in the mc and put a
stainless steel hose clamp around it to prevent leakage. The brakes work
real good and I haven't lost any fluid in 3 years. The nose has to be in the
curb cut at my driveway to check the mc level.... I bought another pv from
the bone yard for $10 awhile back, but..... I was told by several people
that the pv never goes out. BS.

>>Replace the master
cylinder and when you do remove the Vacuum booster and drain the brake fluid
out of it.

If it turns out to be leaking into the brake booster and there is enough
fluid in there to drain out, you will need to replace the booster, too.
Brake fluid will rot the diaphram.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:09:02 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - FE Electric Fuel Pump?

>>Do these units usually have the "safety cutoff switch" (in case of wreck)
built in, or is that usually something extra?

Jeff, don't know the answer to your question, but find Lincoln Towncars in
the junk yards to get the kill switch. They are in the trunk near the left
(driver's side) hinge.

>>one of those speed gravity
things( what's the word I'm looking for) might also be a good idea.

inertia

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:28:06 -0500
From: James Oxley
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Motor fried/Speed pro piston rings and bearings

I had a serious stupid attack and didn't change my oil about a
month ago after a really deep stuck. I started losing oil pressure last
week. I changed the oil and what came out looked really watery :-( Now I
have a huge main/rod rattle at part throttle on the highway above 2500
RPM. It goes away at no or full throttle.

I hadn't planned on doing motor till next fall, so this rebuild is
going to have to be super fast and cheap. I plan on using a 400 crank,
rods and pistons from the 79 F250 I picked up a while ago. The motor ran
fine, it just had a little antifreeze in the oil. I am trying to decide
if I should use my current block or a supposedly recently rebuilt lower
end from a 351M I got for free last night. I know my curent block does
not have any problems like cracks or anything.

I also plan on using the heads as is (new valve seals) and the block
too with just honing the cyl's. I know this is a cheesy rebuild, but I
need all my money for my colorado bound (this summer) trail rig buildup
for the first national big bronco "get-togther". My current
351M is not down on power, so I don't think too much else is fried as of
yet.

I also have leaks everywhere. My oil pan had a pinhole that is now
bigger. The pinion seal on my rear, rear is leaking. Both transfer case
seals are leaking and my PS box sprung a new leak in the top.

So, I see summit has a 400 rebuild kit with TRW forged pistons for
379$. Anyone use Summits speed pro rings and/or bearings. Is that
Summits own brand or is Speed pro a brand? Any good? I had considered
this kit oly because by the time I buy bearings, rings and seals, I am
approaching the cost of this total engine rebuild kit. How bad do these
pistons slap when cold? I've heard newer TRW forged pistons do not slap
that bad as they are made from slightly different materials, compared
tot eh old one's.

Thanks

OX
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:34:40 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - brake problems

Apparently it is possible for the fluid to leak between the pistons within
the MC too. It will leak though as the one pushes it all into the other
side and out on the ground. This happened to me and I still don't know
exactly what happened but it quit at some point in my bleeding process so I
didn't persue it any further. I'm reasonably sure it was within the MC
though. Since my proportioning valve was bad it could have been leaking
there too but the front and rear of that valve are pretty well separated
except for the pin which operates the switch.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> truck around the yard the other day and it drained the front
> resevoir on the
> brake Master Cylinder!! I filled it and drove for about 5
> min and it did it
> again!!
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 09:40:36 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - octane

Try out this url for an explanation of octane ratings:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.osbornauto.com/octane.htm

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:40:03 EST
From: LovBNBad aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 352/351 swap

anyone have any info on swapping a 352 to a 351w? mytruck has been sittin
at least a month now, i heard a thumpin in the bottom end and have'nt started
it since sounds like a rod or bearings maybe both.anyway have been offered a
351w/fordmatic to use while rebuildin 352.do i need to change the towers?any
thing else u might know ?problems?i'm assumeing it should be pretty much drop
in ?am i right ? thx in advance,james
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 07:13:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Mumbling Dave

>"Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - '79 Bronco Rebuild - Two
Birds

>From: "Jeff Norville"
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - '79 Bronco Rebuild - Two Birds
>
>First - have found a rebuilt 351 M-block to swap into
>my 166,000+ mileage Bronco, keeping it all stock -
>but now, at the moment of truth, I have been
>tempted to put in a 400 as it would be such an
>easy upgrade.

>Yo Jeff:

>Sorry to be so late responding to this, but w/
>holidaze, etc...

Yeah, Right! You had to go out and wander around your
M-Block parts collection, mumbling to yourself for
three days just to get over the sensory overload of
firing CJ's "Mighty Disco 428." I know.

I saw some pics, you guys did some fine wrk.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:02:12 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Motor fried/Speed pro piston rings and bearings

Ox, the only reason I would use forged now is to make up for the material I
have to hone out of the cylinders to clean them up.....if you can do it
within the "forged" expansion spec that is. Before you buy the pistons, run
a few test hone passes and measure the bores. If it looks like you can save
them without boring then go for it, otherwise I would use the hypers I think
and bore the cylinders. (unless you are really going to rev this engine a
lot) I used forged in my 460 and it does not slap so you can notice, it has
always been pretty quiet actually. I honed it to the outer limit suggested
by the piston mfg. and left some witness in there but my bores were pretty
darned good to start with.

I remember when I first fired this baby up it sounded soooooooooo smooth and
quiet it made chills run down my spine.....:-) With over 70k on the rebuild
now it's not so quiet any more but still runs quieter than my stupid M block
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> So, I see summit has a 400 rebuild kit with TRW forged pistons for
> 379$.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:03:13 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Water heated 4v carb spacer

Going way too fast :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --


> If you are drag racing then you
> >don't want such devices on your engine for sure but on the
> street, unless
> >you like living dangerously and illegally most of the time,
> you won't notice
> >the difference in your britches but you certainly will in
> your wallet :-)
>
> I've been reading this over and over and I must be dense...What is the
> danger ?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 08:27:05 -0800
From: "JOHN B. HELLDORFER"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel pump blocking FE engine

I have installed an Electric pump on the 390 FE.
I made a cardboard copy of the old pump mounting flange, or a spare gasket
would do. Went to the auto parts store and matched it up with a Chevy pump
block off plate.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.htm

.
__JOHN__տ
ICQ#6030753


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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:29:00 -0500
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: FE Electric Fuel Pump?

To share info regarding the electric fuel pump discussion:

I have an electric pump in my '66 Club Wagon (240 I-6). It was installed by
the PO. The old pump is still installed (instead of using a cover plate),
but I do not know if the arm has been shortened/removed. There are no hoses
running to the pump, so it acts as a cover plate and hasn't caused any
apparent problems.

The fuel pump is actually a small ticker box, unlike any I've seen in the
catalogs. I don't know what brand or what it's from. It works, so that's
all that mattered to me right now. It's actually mounted on the engine. I
always assumed that an electric pump was supposed to mount back near the
tank, but I just recently read that it's fine to mount it up closer to the
carb. I can't remember where I read that, or I'd reference it again. The
only annoyanec is that the ticking is a bit loud because the engine is
right beside the driver. One the engine is running, though, all the engine
noise, road noise, rattling and whistling cancel out any fuel pump noise. :)

If all goes as planned, I will have the engine out for a rebuild in the
springtime, and I haven't decided how I'm going to reroute the gas line.
The current set-up works, but looks too mickeymouse for a rebuilt/restored
engine. I'll either go with a good pump back near the tank with block-off
plate at the stock pump location, mechanical only, or a combination of
mechanical and electric pump (for priming). I like the electric pump for
fast start-ups. I don't currently have a safety switch, but I will if I use
an electric pump after the rebuild.

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 11:42:53 -0500
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: electric fuel pumps

Ah, I just remembered the instance where it's advisable to mount an
electric fuel pump up near the carb instead of back at the tank. If your
fuel system doesn't have a return line back to the tank, the pump should be
up near the carb.

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:46:11 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Fuel pump blocking FE engine

> I have installed an Electric pump on the 390 FE.
> I made a cardboard copy of the old pump mounting flange, or a spare gasket
> would do. Went to the auto parts store and matched it up with a Chevy pump
> block off plate.
>
Cool, do you remember what chevy, or did the small block one work ? I
wouldn't be surprised to find out it did ...


> http://www.ford-trucks.com/pictorial/big/1972_f250_2.html
>

Ya left off the "l" on html ... that'll fix the link :) (yes I put it on in
the example above)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:19:19 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: FE Electric Fuel Pump?

The main, perhaps only, reason you mount the pump near the tank is to take
advantage of mother natures assistance to get it primed. The shorter the
inlet line is the easier the pump can do it's job. What return lines have
to do with it I have no clue. I would suspect it doesn't matter but
apparently some knowledgeable person says it does.....:-) The more fuel it
has on the output side the easier it will stay primed as well and most pumps
work better as pushers than pullers so all the advantage is to the rear
mount setup as near as I can see??

As to the "Law", check with your insurance agent. I believe you will find
out, as I did, that they will not insure a vehicle which has an electric
pump installed unless it has an "approved" safety shut off switch. The oil
pressure switch is accepted by most racing organizations but may not even be
approved by the feds, not sure. Inertia switches are the best for most
purposes I suppose. It's unlikely that you will sustain a serious frontal
impact without killing the engine but a rear impact could open a fuel line
without shutting down the engine in which case an inertia switch would be a
better choice.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> all that mattered to me right now. It's actually mounted on
> the engine. I
> always assumed that an electric pump was supposed to mount
> back near the
> tank, but I just recently read that it's fine to mount it up
> closer to the
> carb.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:29:59 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Compressor/ Water Tanks

My brother does wood signs which are covered with plastic, designed and cut
to open the wood for blasting and then blasted with........125 cfm, engine
powered rental outfit!!! He used to have two 5 hp compressors feeding the
line and had to keep stopping to let them catch up :-)

It's all relative to your needs but I agree that 20 cfm should cover most
applications very nicely :-) More tank is nice for blasting but a pain when
you only use the sytem intermitantly and have to charge it up every time you
use it. My 80 gal tank takes several minutes to charge up from zero even
with such a big pump. Because I have so many joints in the system and use
160 psi plastic pipe for some of it there is not much hope of having it stay
up for very long. I may, some day, go back through it and attempt to get
some of the leaks fixed but that's a lot of work :-( My old one would hold
air for a month sometimes but now it's doing well to keep any air for a week
at a time.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> It's the flow through the head you need. If you have a 20
> scfm (Standard
> Cubic Feet /Minute) that is plenty with reserve. Mine is
> 24scfm and I run a
> large sandblaster nozzle rated at 18scfm plus at the same
> time a friend can
> run an impact taking wheels off the car. You can even run an
> impact off a
> air pig for just cracking the nuts.
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:29:32 EST
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Was Electric Fuel Pump/now insurance disclaimer

In a message dated 11/30/99 12:21:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3 visteon.com writes:

> As to the "Law", check with your insurance agent. I believe you will find
> out, as I did, that they will not insure a vehicle which has an electric
> pump installed unless it has an "approved" safety shut off switch.
Start asking your agent questions like this and you are likely to get a
"no"...anything that impacts on safety will likely lead to a disclaimer.
Performance and suspension modifications are the kinds of work they do not
like to hear about. This is always an out that the insurance company can
rely on in denying coverage.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:31:53 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Suggestions

Going to a 4v won't solve the cold start problem. Get an electric choke and
adjust it properly :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Ok.. when I rebuilt my 352 back in April-May my '66 F100 ran
> great.. now
> that its cold out however its not doing so good?
> Any Ideas?
> I've long suspected that my ol' 2-barrel carb is a piece of
> trash so I
> thinks its time to upgrade. And since Im going to work on it
> anyways, might
> as well go to a 4-barrel right?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:35:06 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Best Compressor

At 04:54 PM 11/28/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Aside from comparison of the brand names or physical mechanics of compressors
>you need to consider CFM's. Just looking at gallons or horsepower is
>inadequate. You must consider what tasks you expect to perform with a
>compressor and the types of air tools you wish to run. Air tools come with a
>cfm rating.

This is the main thing to consider. CFM says it all as far as what
you can do with the compressor. It's nice to have more storage and a
bigger motor and such. My "little" DeVilbiss American Air is only a 5hp, 25
gal. But it puts out 9.1 CFM 40psi, and 8.1 CFM 90 psi give or take a
little. Sometimes it runs like the devil to "keep up" but it does the job.
Runs a siphon blaster fairly well and it has yet to bog down running my impact.


Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
' 63 F-100
parts truck

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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:46:14 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump

Reliability is relative....:-( When they go they go, right now and you are
stuck :-( Mechanical pumps don't usually go suddenly which is a good reason
to have both :-) My last one has lasted a while though :-) First one
didn't last all that long and left me out in the middle of nowhere....:-(
When I build my next 460 I will be using both pumps and when I pull the old
one to refurbish it I will add the pump cam to the cam shaft again and
install a mechanical pump as well. It's my belief that both are needed for
"Stone" reliability :-) I can't even describe how rotten I feel when I get
stranded.....:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > What are the advantages of having an electric pump
> > over a mechanical??
>
> Supposed reliability ...
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 12:57:57 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump

I had to put one on with the last pump I bought. The OEM spread bore
couldn't handle the pressure. I checked the float level and replaced the
needle and seat to no avail. The Holley seemed to handle the old pump OK
but it went out about the same time I switched the engine tune to the OEM
carb. I have WOT, high rpm problems now that I attribute in part to this
addition so tandem regulators might be in order for the 460 since it can
demand quite a bit of flow at high rpm, WOT conditions. I just grabbed the
first one I saw in a parts store. More research and carefull selection of
the next one might also eliminate this problem as I am sure there are high
flow, low pressure regulators out there, mine just isn't one of them :-(

Pressure doesn't care about inclines, it is the same throughout the lines
but the regulator is more conveniently located near the carb just for
adjustment's sake and you don't really want it down in all that mud anyway
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> What are the advantages of having an electric
> pump over a mechanical?? Is
> this a hard swap to do??? Would you also put a fuel pressure
> regulator up
> by the carb to control the pressure and keep it running on
> steep inclines??
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 13:07:35 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Apprenticeship

At 10:58 AM 11/29/99 -0500, you wrote:

> My dad was an aircraft
>mechanic but had trouble relating his experience to cars and trucks. He was
>actually more of a leader than a doer so didn't realy get deep into the
>mechanical parts of it. Made mastersgt in 4 years. Smart man but not a
>natural mechanic :-)
WOW. I couldn't have said this any better. My dad was an aircraft
mechanic in the Marines in WWII. Master Sgt. Very smart man. He was just
the same way. He couldn't relate ANY of it to cars and trucks. Everything
I've learned so far is from hanging around my buddies garages and learning
from their dads when I was growing up. A lot of reading has helped
tremendously. And the best way to learn (besides being on this list) is to
jump in, bust your knuckles, and just do it.
BTW, notice there's a change in my sig. line. The farmer up the
road that I also work with finally drug it out of his field. He's gonna
drag it down here Saturday. It should be fun to watch. Pulling an old truck
down SR 269, no bed, drive shaft and tailpipes tied to the frame. No motor
or tranny with it. The roof, cowl piece, right fender, both doors, hood and
BATTERY TRAY, are solid. The things I really need, ie; floor pans and cab
mounts are gone. I figure for $200 what is there is worth it.

Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed
' 63 F-100
parts truck

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 13:16:18 -0500
From: tfreeman murphyfarms.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump

Gary,

How are you going to hook up both pumps? I like the idea, but can't visulize it
without some type of feed back to the other system.

Thanks,

- -Ted




"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" on 11/30/99 12:46:14 PM

Please respond to 61-79-list ford-trucks.com

To: "'61-79-list ford-trucks.com'"
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Electric Fuel Pump



Reliability is relative....:-( When they go they go, right now and you are
stuck :-( Mechanical pumps don't usually go suddenly which is a good reason
to have both :-) My last one has lasted a while though :-) First one
didn't last all that long and left me out in the middle of nowhere....:-(
When I build my next 460 I will be using both pumps and when I pull the old
one to refurbish it I will add the pump cam to the cam shaft again and
install a mechanical pump as well. It's my belief that both are needed for
"Stone" reliability :-) I can't even describe how rotten I feel when I get
stranded.....:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > What are the advantages of having an electric pump
> > over a mechanical??
>
> Supposed reliability ...
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