From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #432
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, November 23 1999 Volume 03 : Number 432



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE 61-79 - A Lil Mo Info
RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 or 429, that is the question.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: pass side front diff
FTE 61-79 - Rancheros, Falcon?
RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100
FTE 61-79 - Re: LIL' MO INFO
RE: FTE 61-79 - swaybarS
RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 or 429, that is the question.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: pass side front diff
RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 or 429, that is the question.
Re: FTE 61-79 - A LIL MO' INFO.........
FTE 61-79 - Windshield Installed -- Thanks
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: pass side front diff
FTE 61-79 - heater not working
RE: FTE 61-79 - steering bind
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: A LIL MO' INFO
FTE 61-79 - hardened valve seats
FTE 61-79 - A LIL MO' INFO.........
RE: FTE 61-79 - hardened valve seats
FTE 61-79 - Kennewick/Pasco List Members????
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dana 44 Hubs
RE: FTE 61-79 - '71 3.03 tranny and linkage
RE: FTE 61-79 - A LIL MO' INFO.........
RE: FTE 61-79 - hardened valve seats
FTE 61-79 - Re: Wyoming (A LIL MO' INFO)
Re: FTE 61-79 - A LIL MO' INFO.........
FTE 61-79 - Re:A LIL MO INFO.....
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dana 44 Hubs
FTE 61-79 - pumpkin location
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Old Ford Owners never quit....
FTE 61-79 - Yet a little more info.
FTE 61-79 - Finally, a couple of pictures.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dana 44 Hubs
FTE 61-79 - F250 suspension TTB stuff
RE: FTE 61-79 - Finally, a couple of pictures.
FTE 61-79 - bio
FTE 61-79 - Clutch not quite right
FTE 61-79 - MO' INFO
FTE 61-79 - Shooting out of gear
FTE 61-79 - Well here goes...

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:27:40 EST
From: SevnD2 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A Lil Mo Info

In a message dated 11/21/1999 9:06:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
clukcluk mindspring.com writes:


cents worth in as well. My name is Andy Putnam, and I live in Greensboro,
NC. >>
Hi Andy ! I am close enough to you to have a little get together sometime .
I am in King . I go through greensboro once in a while . Maybe we could meet
for lunch or breakfast sometime ! Anyone else in this area ?

Seems like someone in or near Greensboro had asked about my 391 once . They
wanted to buy it if I had decided to swap it for a smaller engine . They said
they need it for a dump truck or F 600 .
Rollie H. Hunt
King,North Carolina
1976 F100 Explorer ,391FT(428cu in)
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:54:55 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 or 429, that is the question.

The 429 is the same external dimensions and weight as the 460. They have
the same potential except the 460 is BIGGER :-) You can build the FE
engines today but it's more costly. I don't know that the FE has any real
advantage now over the 460. I know of 460's that can rev to 9k and live.
Hop up parts for the 460 are very prolific now so it's pretty easy to find
just the combination you want and 4 bolt blocks are still available from SVO
last I checked.

If you really want a conversation piece, get the SVO aluminum Drag block
with cast iron sleeves that can be bored and stroked to over
600cuin.........:-)

When you get over 350cuin you can rest assured that 10-15 mpg is the range
you will see with any of them and most will not care if they are loaded or
not as you say :-) I believe (and hope to prove) that a properly set up 460
can give great performance and 15 mpg all day long. I've known people who
claimed to get 17 on the highway on long trips with merc wagons equipped
with this engine in stock trim. We all know we can improve on stock right?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> For Dream Truck, I'm wondering which engine would be the
> best choice: A
> 390 or a 429? I plan to run 4:10 gears, C-6 and 36-38" tires.

> can gather, a 390 will give me better mileage with no load
> and the same with
> a load. What do you folks think?
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:15:39 -0500
From: "Clem Salek"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: pass side front diff







Not likely a rare collector's item! Most likely a conglomeration of
available parts, likely ranging from a Ch #y T-case and front end. I've
seen a Ch #y Dana 60 front bolted to the under the front of a Ford (when a
Ford Dana 60 could not be located). The driveshaft exited out of a standard
NP205 (drivers side) and crossed over to the passenger side front diff. It
looked really hacked, but seemed to work. Don't know how long the u-joints
lasted...they were probably operating at or near their extreme angles.

Clem
"Recon Unit 1"
'79 F350,460,NP435
10Ton PTO Winch


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:19:38 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rancheros, Falcon?

>>Looks like a 58 something or other....? Wonder what a 78 lincoln would look
like made into a Ranchero....:-) Be a good place to practice my metal
working skills :-)

Gary, it would look great. Down here we call them Rancher Specials. Before I
moved over to Fords, I always wanted to make a Ranchero out of a Cadillac
Sedan de Ville. SWMBO of course was against the idea. In the Vetans Day
parade last week there was a 59 Cadillac that had been made into a Ranchero.
If the Lincoln frame is solid, I say go for it. You know they say that idle
hands are the devil's something or other.....

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:26:28 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 65 F100



> I've been told that the 240 engine was one of the toughest ever
> made, don't
> know how true that is, but I know it out performed the 360 in my 73 F250,
> and the 5.2L in my 89 Bronco.
>

I'm sure it is, as long as the snot hasn't been beaten out of it by a
previous owner (obviously yours hasn't had those problems :) My question is
the 5.2L ? Just kind of curious as to if it was really a 5.2 or just a
misrememberance (senior moment? :) the 5.2 is about 318cu. in. and found in
D*dge products ... Ford hasn't made one that size that I know off off hand,
there was a 4.9 (6cyl), 5.0 (aka 302), 5.8 (351W), and possibly a 460 (7.5?)
available those years in the F-series ...

Just curious ... :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 06:39:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: LIL' MO INFO

Guess I will join in... I am Bill, been on and off the list from when
it had a 100 subscribers, but mostly lurk and learn. 55 years young,
divorced, retired AF (24 years), still working for the Fed. Gov, couple
of degrees (business/computer science), Harley rider and of course,
Ford person... in fact my first car was a 1954 Ford Crestline
Victoria, bought when it was only 6 years old.. of course I have owned
just about every other brand of automobile since then but finally
returned to my senses about 10 years ago and returned to the fold. I
currently live in San Antonio, TX, but will be moving to Mobile, AL, in
mid to late January (my 10th major move in 35 years, hence the nickname
"GypsyBill").

My truck (1964 F100 Shortbox), well that has been a project...
purchased for $150 from a guy in Colorado in 1993 (where I was living
at the time) who was using it for dumpster. It has been thru several
iterations of construction but is now settling on it's final form (at
least I think so). I just finished doing a complete rebuild of the
front suspension (1977 Plymouth Volare), and the 1970 351W is at the
machine/speed shop being rebuilt to a nicely "warmed up" street
performance engine. Yeah I know the Volare front suspension violates
the "pure Ford" edict, but I needed/wanted IFS and couldn't afford one
of the aftermarket "store bought" ones, but had a friend who was a
journeyman welder, so in went the Volare. Everything else tho is all
FOMOCO. I set a budget of $10,000 to reach the point where I could say
it was finished... so far I have receipts for approximately $5500, with
new wiring (Painless), AC (Vintage Air), Monoleaf rear springs, spruced
up interior and paint to go... doing all but the final painting myself,
I may be able to come in near budget. I figure on another 3 to 4 years
(about 10 years work) and I can start another project... since this
truck is also my daily driver, it has taken me a little longer than
most..

Anyway, that's me in a nutshell... ya'll take care now...

Bill in Texas
'64 F100 Shortbox (351W/C4)
'90 Harley Dresser


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:46:29 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - swaybarS

> Ah yes, trailing throttle oversteer, or snap throttle
> oversteer, stiffen one
> end and you'll loose it big time. On-ramps become a nightmare
> when unloaded,
> and tight twisty roads are not for the faint of heart.
>

hehehehe :) exactly :)


> As my favorite *cars* are small and fast, you shouldn't try to
> out think the
> factory designs.

Oh come on, everyone knows the factory is wrong :) They just get close
enough and then quit, duh! (sorry big pet peeve is people thinking the
factory doesn't know what they are doing) Granted sometimes they do do dumb
things (from our point of view), but most of the time there is actually
logic from a different perspective. Also remember they have to build
vehicles for the majority of the population (no matter what they claim about
1%ers) ... lots of examples of great cars going out of production due to
lack of sales even though they're technically perfect (or as close as you
can get)


> Unfortunately, it *IS* rocket
> science......
>

On the plus side though, unlike rocket science, if you miscalculate it
likely won't be a life or death situation (depending on the miscalculation
of course) ... whereas with the rocket, you get one shot :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:49:59 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 or 429, that is the question.

> But
> I've heard the frame was narrowed on the late '70's F-series and
> the 390 may
> not set down in and bolt up very easily.
>

I'm gonna take a stab in the dark here and suggest that the 460 is probably
just as wide or wider than the 390, and since it crammed into that engine
compartment, I'll bet a 390 will too ... Tony has done some swapping of the
FE's and 6's and found that they use the same motor mounts (stancions on the
frame) ... so that might be a good starting place ... those mounts should be
readily available in the salvage yard ... then you'll just need a tranny,
and some luck on the wiring ... 4x4 or 4x2 I don't remember if you said or
not ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 06:50:35 -0800
From: Don
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: pass side front diff

For the record the only Ford trucks I have seen with the diff on the
passenger side were either

1. Conversions or upgrades done by the home mechanic.
2. Conversions or upgrades done by a professional shop.

There are a few F450-550's with Dana 70 in the front ( early 90's) They
are the 10 lug verity that run around town.

The coolest one I have seen was an F-800 Talk about beef.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net
99 Contour
63 F-100 4x4
43 GPW
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:52:47 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 390 or 429, that is the question.

> My name is Pat and I too have the sickness (Believed to be either
> genetic or brought on by inhaling Ford exhaust at an early age.)

Hi Pat ! :)


> 79 F250 4x4
> (The Dream Truck)

> For Dream Truck, I'm wondering which engine would be the best
> choice: A
> 390 or a 429? I plan to run 4:10 gears, C-6 and 36-38" tires. I will be
> using it to get fire wood, drive 1000 miles north each year on the annual
> hunting trip and for what ever else I feel like. I'm planning on building
> which ever I decide on to handle propane (1/2 price in Canada).
> From what I
> can gather, a 390 will give me better mileage with no load and
> the same with
> a load. What do you folks think?

What motor is in it now ? Likely you will be ages ahead to just go with
(arg, I can't believe I'm going to say this) ... the 429/460 .... the parts
are just more readily available and going to be cheaper to build the motor
overall, plus, as someone said, it just sounds cool when you have over 400
cubic inches :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 06:53:35 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A LIL MO' INFO.........

Thanks for your message at 07:14 PM 11/22/99 -0700, Kiernan, Denny. Your
message was:
>
>FTE content: I dont mind listening to Tennessee Ernie Ford, either.

...but only his recordings from '61 to '79. "16 Tons" doesn't fit in
there...


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:59:07 -0500
From: "Don Haring, Jr."
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Windshield Installed -- Thanks

Thanks for all the help and advice, both personally and on-list, regarding
my questions about installing a windshield. Based on everyone's advice,
which mostly seemed to be that it's not particularly difficult but requires
two careful sets of hands and patience, I decided to let the junkyard
install the glass for the additional $50. I will practice on smaller glass
before trying a winshield, particarly one as big and as difficult to find
(around here at least) as the Club Wagon windshield. The information was
appreciated and I'll attempt this sometime in the future. Thanks again, and
hopefully that's the last windshield I have to buy for a while. :)

- -don

- --
Don in Philadelphia
Internet Director, Keystone Chapter FCA | 66 Falcon Deluxe Club Wagon
Falconaut: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconaut | 61 Falcon Futura
Keystone: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://fedora.net/falconkey | classic scooters and bicycles


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:09:21 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: pass side front diff

I thought maybe the neg was reversed too but the writing, FORD, etc. is all
the right way...

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Pat
To:
Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 10:20 PM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: pass side front diff


> Maybe the negative on the picture was printed reversed. I've never seen a
> diff on a Ford exiting on the passenger side. The 77 that I'm looking at
> exits on the driver's side and all the other ones that I've ever seen,
exit
> on the same side. You have a rare collectors item!



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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:29:44 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - heater not working

>>Bars Leak is like very runny mince meat. The silver paper tube stuff is
what plugged my heater (I think the Brand name was Silver Seal or
something...). I've had good luck with Bars Leak. According to an ad I
read, a lot of new car manufacturers are putting Bars Leak in right off the
assembly line. Whether this is tru or not, I don't know...

Dennis,
The general has been putting stopleak in his engines since at least 1985 and
maybe 1982. Started with the Cadillac HT4100 in the front drives and they
also used it in a 4 banger put out in Grand Ams and Olds Calais about the
same time. It looked like giant rabbit pellets. They came 6 to a card and
how many you used depended on the size of the cooling system. They were
notorious for leaking and stopping up. Another reason I switched brands and
another reason I like big old single piece cast iron blocks.

I have used Barr's Leak Stop several times as a get by method, but it never
holds up longer than about six months or so. It will stop a rusted freeze
plug from leaking long enough to make it through the season, but that's
about it.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:10:20 -0500
From: William King
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - steering bind

Gene,
I went with the JC Whitney cab mounts about 3 years ago b/c my
truck didn't have cab mounts when I bought it (just 2x4s on the
frame rails). After I made new floor boards, I put the JC Whit-less
cab mounts in. One of them has buckled, so the nose of my truck
droops on the pass. side (to the point that the pass. side blinker
is half-hidden by the front bumper). Looks a little sad. I'd say
go with the Dennis Carpenter.

>Found an ol' boy who's going to brace the cab with a 2x4 under the
>floorboard -- should keep me on the road until I order the new mounts which
>he says he can weld in. Think I'll go with the Dennis Carpenter original
>parts ($80 each side) even though it's double what JCW charges. Don't want
>to re-do them again like Marko had to.

Ohio Bill

1968 Torino GT 429 4v 4 speed
1968 F100 360 2v 4 speed
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:12:24 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: A LIL MO' INFO

>
> Our EE dept. here calls that "letting the magic smoke out" ...
>
> :)
>
> Just my $.02
> wish

Been a long time since I've heard that saying. Used to be
really common when electrical components had a habit of
letting the smoke out.

Ken
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:29:01 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - hardened valve seats

This discussion was going on late last week. I think that the first year to
have hardened valve seats would have been 1971 when all light duty vehicles
were required to burn low lead fuel. There may have been a few in earlier
years. If someone has an owner's manual from 69 to 72, you should be able to
look up fuel recommendtions. If it says it is OK to burn low lead fuel, then
you have hardened valve seats, probably platinum. Tetraethyl lead was used
as a valve lubricant and served no other purpose. At one time I was told
that there was so much lead deposited in the gas tank that you didn't have
to worry about additives, anything put in the tank was immediately dosed. As
much time as has passed, I wouldn't count on that being true anymore.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:33:17 PST
From: "Don Jones"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A LIL MO' INFO.........

Hi! my name is Don Jones. I live in a small town in northern Ontario,
Canada. Happily married with 3 boys 6,6,and 8 years old (twistedhand is an
anagram for "the twin's dad"). I was educated as a mechanical engineering
technician, but my working life has been spent in the food retail business.
Snowmobiling,boating, hunting, and fishing occupy my spare time.
I live across the street from a GM dealer who does all my oil changes for
free. (in exchange for me having to put up with broken G* products parked
infront of my house, he says :-) )
I have been on this list (mostly luriking in digest mode) for nearly 2
years now. The digest makes a great read with my morning coffee!
Other F'T's i have had include a 1986 f-150 xlt lariat with a 302 EFI
that went to the boneyard with a k-car embedded in the side of it and a
1985 f-150 supercab with a 300 -6.
Currently I have a 1970 f-250 4x4 with 360 that was lifted with springs
and tires. It rides rough, burns gas, goes anyplace and has been the most
reliable vehicle in the driveway. I bought it from the original owner's
widow after the truck sat for a few years. A new battery and complete brake
job had it safely on the road. I painted it in the original colour in my
back yard a year ago, it turned out great but I think will shoot it again in
the spring toget rid of some scratches its accumulated on hunting and
fishing trips.
Future plans (dreams) are a 390 or a 410 built up using the 360 in my parts
truck ad a starting point....maybe a frame up resto with a rust free cab and
bed..... some day....


Don Jones
1970 f-250 4x4 ~Fordzilla~


______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:35:03 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - hardened valve seats

> first year to
> have hardened valve seats would have been 1971 when all light
> duty vehicles
> were required to burn low lead fuel. There may have been a few in earlier
> years. If someone has an owner's manual from 69 to 72, you should
> be able to
> look up fuel recommendtions. If it says it is OK to burn low lead
> fuel, then
> you have hardened valve seats, probably platinum.

Low lead may have been enough to keep things lubed too ... but I know our 69
Cougar w/351W (and being a new motor that year should've seen it coming)
doesn't say anything about low-lead fuels in the owner's manual ... yes I
read it once ... NOS manual from a swap meet :)

I still stand by FE's never having had them from the factory ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd. 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 C6 6.4L (w/hardened valve seats)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:44:43 EST
From: BDIJXS aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Kennewick/Pasco List Members????

Hey gang,

I'll be over in your neck of the woods next week, looking like Thursday, Dec
2nd....

Can any of you make it for lunch???? The old deal stands: If you show up in
your truck, I'll pay for the meal!!!!

I'll even bring along a few pictures of the group from Seattle!

Please send me a message if you can make it!

Thanks!

Colorado Jeff (CJ)
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:57:33 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dana 44 Hubs

> On that particular one, the caps pop out just like the grease caps do
> from a 4x2 hub;

yup, the other side came out no problem ...well the cap anyway ...


> there are two (if I recall correctly) retaining rings. One
> is easy to find, and it clips around the outside surface of the inner axle
> shaft ... the other one sits in a groove on the inside of the axle/hub
> housing;

Kind of ... my conversion kit has both of these, the factory hubs I took
apart only had the one on the inner axle ...

> Once
> you get the retainer ring out, everything should slide out relatively
> easily.
>

hahahaha .. one would think ... I had to soak it in WD-40 to finally get all
the rust eaten out so I could pry it out ...

Well the axle is finally light enough for me to move, took the rotors off,
the pass. side is all the way down to the ball joints, and the wrench for
that should be ordered today (what size is that 1 3/8" ?) ... the driver's
side I'm still trying to pound the spindle out of the knuckle ... that
didn't sound right, but I'm not actually pounding on the spindle itself ...
I pulled the cover off and a couple ounces of water poured out of the
housing ... no grease or nothing in there.

I'm going to get everything cleaned up, and the idea then is to try and
salvage the gears and such by running some gear lube in there without any
power on it, just lock the hubs and drive it around in 2 for a week or
so,then change the lube ... hopefully that'll get the scale all off of the
gears where the humidity has created a tiny bit of rust ...

New ball joints, tie rods, heck even a different steering box will find
their way into the mix during the swap. Along with brake lines and hoses,
and poly-bushings for the radius arms ...

One neat trick I found accidently was that when pulling the lower spring
pads off, use an impact wrench, dunno if I got lucky or what, but the one
side I did by hand twisted off (didn't bother me as the radius arms were
cut!) but the side I used the impact wrench on actually worked perfectly ...
neither bolt twisted off and they both came out clean and easy ... for the
arms themselves, the 4 bolts on the front, I had to break loose with a pull
wrench then the impact wrench SLOWLY backed them out ... hurt my back less
than the way I did the other side (using my feet to push the wrench at some
points)

Any bets on whether the rotors are worth trying to salvage or not ?

Also hubs, any recommendations ? I want some decent hubs, I don't do any
heavy off-roading, but we get enough ice and junk to worry about freezing
hubs up ... also 1/2 turn or less to engage is a must, the ones I have on my
current axle are 3/4 turn and its just kind of annoying that I can't do it
in one flip... petty huh?

Just lookin for advice on how much to replace before I put it under the
truck ... and suggestions in cleaning it up and painting it.

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 11:23:14 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - '71 3.03 tranny and linkage

If I get the right feel for what you are describing it sounds like the
syncros are not cooperating. Either they are messed up or the oil is too
thick or the clutch is not completely disengaging.

A simple test should verify the clutch problem....can you put it in neutral,
let the clutch out, depress the clutch again and immediately put it in first
or any other gear except reverse without grinding (try all three gears)?
Can you depress the clutch in neutral after letting the gears spin a while
and in a matter of 30 seconds or so (or longer) to allow the gears to slow
down, then put it in reverse? I suspect you will only answer yes to one of
these or none. If the first is yes then the syncros are good but the clutch
may be dragging. If the second your syncros are bad and the clutch is
probably OK. If the third it is probably the clutch but could also be worn
syncros on top of that.

You should have "some" free play in the clutch pedal but not too much. If
too much the helper spring will not allow the pedal to come all the way out
to it's stop when you let it out, if not enough, that is zero, the clutch
will slip but should disengage somewhat off the floor.

If you have free play, put it in gear then ease the clutch off the floor
till you feel it begin to pull or engage.....where is that happening? If
right off the floor then you probably have a messed up clutch, either worn
out disk, bad linkage or warped flywheel or pressure plate. Typically a
worn disk, by itself, will not cause this but will force you to take the
linkage all the way to the limit to get any free play and maybe not even
then. When you have the linkage all the way out and still have no free play
or even just a tiny bit then you need a new disk at the very least.

The second gear thing could be shift coller, clutch, or shift linkage or
even a bad detent in the tranny. If you pull the links out of the shift
arms on the tranny and manually shift each arm to both positions and all
postions feel like the detent is very positive then you probably are simply
not getting it past the detent to retain it in gear which could be due to
linkage or clutch or syncros.......Gosh, that isn't really much help is it?

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> down into 1st it kind of feels like it's coming up against
> the gear but it
> won't drop in. I can feel a pulse like in the shift lever
> like I'm rolling
> over the splines when this happens. Sometimes, more often
> than not, I'll go
> to shift into 2nd and if I don't hold the shifter in position
> for a second
> the tranny will totally kick itself out of gear. No, this
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 11:24:44 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - A LIL MO' INFO.........

That's the only Ford song I know :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --


> ...but only his recordings from '61 to '79. "16 Tons" doesn't fit in
> there...
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 11:28:16 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - hardened valve seats

I have heard the lead served two purposes, octane boost and valve lube. I
have never seen in print that the lead was "not" used for octane or was not
the primary booster ingredient, always the opposite. Virtually all after
market boosters have a warning on the label which says: "Caution, contains
lead".

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> lead was used
> as a valve lubricant and served no other purpose.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:28:25 -0700
From: "Richard Currit"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Wyoming (A LIL MO' INFO)

John Dolson says (among other things):
>This Summer I will start 9 months of school at >Wyoming Technical
Institute,in Laramie Wyoming, >where I will be taking classes in Diesel
Mechanics >and Streetrod Building.

Well heres an early welcome to Wyoming. If you like hunting and
fishing, or any other outdoor activities you are going to like it here.
One thing to consider tho is putting an engine heater on that truck if
you plan on being here next winter. Makes life much easier and it is
much easier on that fine Ford engine. You also might want to rethink
that tire combo for winter driving.

High Plains Richard
'72 F-100, 300l6
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 11:31:02 -0500
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - A LIL MO' INFO.........

My turn. My name is Ted Wnorowski, if your wondering the " W " is silent.
I don't know why, it's a Polack thing. I live in Bellevue,OH. About 20
minutes south of Cedar Point, the place they're building a 310 ft. tall
roller coaster.I grew up in Toledo. I have a 16 year old son that lives in
Temperance, MI. I'm happily married for the second time and have 3
stepchildren. I have always been Ford faithful, but SWISO (She Who Is
Sometimes Obeyed) is a GM nut. In fact, she drug home a ' 69 GTO the other
day.
I work for Armstrong Air as a Team Process Group Leader in the pressroom
for the last 15 years. I've pretty much worked with sheet metal my entire
adult life. Before I moved down here I welded in a fab shop back home.
I have the ' 64 F-250 I affectionately call " The Beast " . The poor
thing is in need of chemo therapy. But it keeps me out of the bar, and
I've got something to show for my money. Many times I get started on doing
something to it, I think of that commercial for UC Lending. The grizzled
old cowpoke is talking about refinancing his house to pay off his truck. He
looks in the camera and says, "bit off a little more than I could chew."
That's the way I feel A LOT until whatever it is I'm doing turns out OK,
usually with the help and advice of this list. I always tell the guys at
work, you folks know so much, you even know the torque specs for my armrests.
If anyone out there is around north -central OH I'm about 10 minutes from
the turnpike. Drop me a line.



Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed



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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:42:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:A LIL MO INFO.....

Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: A LIL MO INFO.....

Here is my info. My name is Dan Lee, I am 59 YO. I
live in Morgan Hill CA, but I was born and raised in
Philly. I have been driving and working on Fords and
others for 40 years. My first vehicle was a '55 Ford
Sedan with a 'Y' block 272 and three on the tree. When
I sold that it had a overbored 312 with three two's.
My next was a black '56 coupe with a modified 292. One
of my jobs during this period of my life was in a
Radiator repair shop in Philly. After a tour in the US
Army, I returned to Philly and bought a '64 Falcon
Sprint with a 260. I traded that for my first 'New'
car, a '67 Mustang coupe with a 289 and three speed.
Thirteen years later, I sold that Mustang with a
351C-4V and Top Loader four speed. My next Ford was a
Fiesta(energy crisis). By this time I had obtained an
Electrical Engineering Degree an was working for GE
Aerospace near Philly, was married and had three kids,
not much time for hobbies. My spare time was spent
keeping a fleet of vehicles on the road and a house in
the 'burbs. More recently I transferred to Lockheed
Martin Missles and Space in Sunnyvale CA, my kids are
grown, and I bought my first truck. It was a
California '53 F100 with a 351C-4V, C6 and 9" rear
from a '71 Torino, it had been sitting since the '70s.
I have done extensive work on the '53. It has a new
bed, paint, an IFS, PS, PDB, AM/FM/CD and a 400 with
the Cleveland 4V heads, cam, headers, roller rockers.

I am not done with the '53, but some day I expect to
retire and take it back east. I have gotten a lot of
great help from the people here and I try to supply
some answers to peoples problems when I can.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 11:43:21 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dana 44 Hubs

The Warn premiums I just put in mine have almost a full turn, in fact I
think it is a full turn but that's what makes them strong, positive
engagement. I used a little grease in mine (not very much) and they do turn
hard but I can turn them with my hand. If the splines are not lined up it
takes a lot more muscle to get them turned but if the splines are lined up
they turn fairly easily. I still firmly believe that virtually every hub
that has ever been blown was blown due to partial engagement due to dry
grease or weak spring or some other reason. I suppose it is possible to get
enough torque on one to actually burst the outer shell when fully engaged
but I bet most of us don't have that much power under the hood :-)

I've often thought of making a wrench to make turning them in the winter
much easier but lazyness has prevented the actual execution of this
brilliant idea :-)

BTW, the Warn Standard uses the same locking spline assy but has a much
cheaper engagement mechanism and knob. Don't know how far it has to turn to
lock though. The premiums definitely have a much stronger look and feel but
the part the locks the axle to the hub is the same part AFAIK.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Also hubs, any recommendations ? I want some decent hubs, I
> don't do any
> heavy off-roading, but we get enough ice and junk to worry
> about freezing
> hubs up ... also 1/2 turn or less to engage is a must, the
> ones I have on my
> current axle are 3/4 turn and its just kind of annoying that
> I can't do it
> in one flip... petty huh?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 11:49:55 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - pumpkin location

Danny writes: >>
I'm not too sure how reilable it is to say that a front end which has
the differential on the passenger side is not from Ford. My 77 F250
Highboy front diff is on the right side (passenger side). I may be wrong
but I thought that all F series trucks that were equipped with a
divoriced NP 205 (like mine) had the diff on the right side due to being
the only way the T-Case was availible from New Process. If you want I
can send pics.

I'd like you to put the VIN # up on this list for decoding. I don't think Ford
ever made a 4X4 with passenger side Differential. I own a '77 F250 4X4 with C6
& divorced NP205 and it has the drivers side pumpkin. My son has a '79 F350 4X4
and it has the driversside pumpkin with married NP435/ NP205. I've parted out a
'74 F250 4X4 with Np435 and divorced NP205, and a '75 F250 4X4 with C6 and
divorced NP203, all of which had the pumpkin on the drivers side. I think yours
may be some previous owners "made up" 4X4. That doesn't mean it isn't a good
4X4, but I don't think the VIN # will match up to the truck. I've been wrong on
many previous occasions, so maybe again.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:00:52 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Old Ford Owners never quit....

Well Dan, I've gleaned at least one new perspective from this
thread......not only do "Old FORDS never die, they just go faster" but "Old
Ford OWNERS never quit, they just go faster too" :-) Unfortunately they do
die, though, before they get it perfected, Darn! :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Here is my info. My name is Dan Lee, I am 59 YO. I
> live in Morgan Hill CA, but I was born and raised in
> Philly. I have been driving and working on Fords and
> others for 40 years.

> California '53 F100 with a 351C-4V, C6 and 9" rear
>
> I am not done with the '53, but some day I expect to
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:21:17 -0500
From: pdesanto Cinergy.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Yet a little more info.

Hi all, thought I'd jump in here too. I'm in digest so this is a little
late. Like a lot of others, I lurk most of the time because it's hard to
answer quickly in digest, and with the knowledge level here it's usually not
necessary anyway.
My name is Phil DeSanto, I live in Terre Haute, Indiana. Some call it the
"crossroads of America", we tend to think of it in less lofty terms. I'm 46,
and happily married to someone that shares my interest in old cars and
trucks, and has for 22 years. Some times I think she wants them done more
then I do. Can't KEEP her out of my Galaxie ! I have 2 kids, a son 20
that's in college, and a daughter 13, that I think is gonna be my
"gearhead". She loves cars ! My son is just now coming around, having always
been more into baseball. I work for a large midwest utility that's currently
going through "reorganization". I'm a mechanic/ cert. welder/ Operator. I've
been here about 20 years. We'll have to see how THAT shakes out.
( YOU know what I mean B. Ballinger) I worked in a large parts store when
I was in school. After getting out of college, I was an auto mech.
instructor at an area Vocational/ Tech. college. Loved that job, but it sure
didn't pay much. Also ran my own shop for about 10 years; but finally
stopped doing it when I saw my boy growing up with not much input from his
Dad. My current projects are a 63 1/2 Galaxie, 390/4sp. that I can't wait to
get finished, and my 64
F-100 LWB Styleside that is taking up WAY too much room in and around the
house. Right now the bed and cab are off and still apart. The 351w is done
and the drivetrain will follow soon. I want to drive it to Pigeon Forge, I
just don't know what YEAR yet ! It's a Custom Cab and will be lt. Blue and
White, with a 2 tone blue interior. I also put in a 66 Mustang A/C unit that
was laying around. I also have waiting in the wings my 66 Mustang that was
my first car. My daughter kinda has her eyes on that one. It's 3rd. in line
if I ever get these other 2 done.
I'd like to add that I really enjoy this list. I have learned sooo much
from everyone's input. And I also want to thank Lisa for coming up with this
idea. It's a great way to "flesh out" some of the names I see everyday, but
have never met.
Lisa, I also want to say that at 17 you show a level of maturity that a
lot of your peers don't have. Just the fact that your ON this list shows
that. Your sense of humor and personality should take you far. Your posts
add greatly to the whole list. Sounds like your dad's already got you on the
right path too. I wish more girls would / could see the enjoyment of this
hobby. ( definitely gender specific ) And speaking of hobbies, mine include
cars, car / truck shows, NASCAR, and which ever game or event my kids are in
that day ! Whew ! Thanx a bunch, Phil















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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:49:35 -0500
From: Steve Schaefer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Finally, a couple of pictures.

Hi gang,
I finally got a couple of pictures of my F-350 Crewcab up. I am sorry
that they are poor pictures, but weather has not allowed me to move this
outside to get some pictures. Hopefully I can get some over the Turkey
day break. I still need a few parts to complete this before I can build
the bed for it, but it won't take long. I can finally retire the yellow
and purple truck from its towing duties.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/other.html

The pictures are at the bottom. Boy do I like playing with the pearl
paints.

Steve S.
76 F-350 Crewcab
77 F-250 Supercab
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663

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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 18:10:00 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Henderson
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Dana 44 Hubs

> BTW, the Warn Standard uses the same locking spline assy but has a=20
much
> cheaper engagement mechanism and knob. Don't know how far it has to=20
turn to
> lock though. The premiums definitely have a much stronger look and=20
feel but
> the part the locks the axle to the hub is the same part AFAIK.

1/4 turn on the standard Warn hubs (e.g. 12 to 3 on a clock face). =20
Outer part is plastic, but the inner parts are steel. Looked better=20
than the two different locking hub that were on the truck (1 full=20
turn, 1 =BD turn, neither said Ford on them). As far as the durability =

of the standard, so far so good, but it has only been 1 years worth of=20
abuse.

Dave H

- --=20
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93
Beat t.u.!!
(That small non-significant liberal arts school in Austin,
or that small slum area beside the capitol)

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html



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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 11:32:46 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F250 suspension TTB stuff

Yo Gang:

Just got back from taking a vacation day, or I'd have written sooner.

As Colorado Jeff mentioned, we spent Saturday afternoon at his place donkin' on
our Ford trucks (his '69-'71 F100 4x4 and my '80 F250 4x4).

After we got that disco 428 fired up and broke in the cam and discovered the oil
leak (rear main or maybe just the back of the oil pan), and splattered power
steering fluid all over Jeff's driveway and the left side of the engine
compartment... next time he fired up that 428, Jeff commented, "It started up
almost as easy as an M-block." (I have a picture of the ol' M-block lending a
jump to the new 428 for its first fire!)

After the F100's maiden voyage under its own 428 power, we got to work on my
front suspension. This party was DonkFest III, as Jeff and I spent the previous
2 weekends doing all the springs. We replaced the original front and rear leaf
packs w/ units from a 1990 F250 HD 4x4 (which has about 2K# more GVW than my
F250LD). The HD rear springs had the same arch as my originals, but measured
about 50% thicker at the center bolt. They brought up the rear by at least 2
inches. Even better, the stiffness of the HD springs reduced the axle wrap I
was getting w/ the old wimpy springs that had one broken leaf on each side.

The sag in front was exaggerated by the lift of the new rear springs, so I was
determined the new front springs wouldn't have that problem. I had Denver Leaf
Spring Service put in a full-length, full-taper 3rd leaf on the front packs.
The new 3rd leaf measured 7/8" thick at the center bolt. When installed, the
new 3-leaf front packs gave over 2 inches of lift. It was so much that my OEM
pivot brackets (TTB stuff) were no good and I had about 25 degrees positive
camber! Of course, w/ that much rotation of the axle housings, the steering was
now seriously toed-in (probably about 10-12 degrees!), so bad that every time I
backed up, I could feel the tires scrubbing big time.

The only affordable solution I could find to the camber problem (that would also
retain the lift) was the adjustable pivot bracket set from Tuff Country in West
Jordan, UT. That set was what we spent about 5 hours installing last Saturday.
In the end, they went in OK and the camber problem is now corrected and the
F250's front end sits about level w/ the back, which is what I wanted in the
first place. As usual, achieving my original objective proved much more
difficult and expensive than I first estimated. (This whole project started
when I picked up all the springs and some other misc. goodies from the Valmont
junkyard for $50.)

A couple of notes about the Tuff Country brackets. The customer service guy was
really great about getting the parts shipped immediately so I would have them in
time to install them last weekend. Great customer service there, but he wasn't
very knowledgeable about the technical details of the kit. He told me it
included all the hardware to mount the brackets to the crossmember, but the only
hardware included were the pivot bolt pieces ("cam" bolts, locking nuts, and
washers).

The brackets themselves looked pretty good w/ black crinkle finish paint. They
were made from 0.25" steel stock and the construction (bends and welds) looked
good. They look like they'll be stronger than the OEM brackets.

There was one major hangup in the installation of the brackets. One of the
holes on the side of the right-hand bracket didn't line up with the hole on the
crossmember. We attached the other three bolts and tightened them and then used
the crossmember as a guide to drill a new hole in the bracket (not fun!). I am
guessing that later model F250s might have a slightly different crossmember
design and maybe the brackets were set up for those?

The only other (minor) complaint I have about these brackets is how close the
pivot bolt in the right-hand bracket sits to the right-hand axle shaft. With
the bolt going in from the front, there is not enough room on the back (between
the end of the bolt and the right-hand axle shaft) to get a box end wrench on
the lock nut. I am a little concerned that the 7/8" lock nut can't be torqued
enough w/ an open end wrench. In retrospect, maybe the ultimate solution to
this problem is running the pivot "cam" bolt in from the rear (which would have
to be done w/ the bracket detached from the crossmember).

Jeff pointed out a possible weakness in the way the "cam" bolts were made. To
make their "cam" bolts, Tuff Country machines about 1/8" off one side of the
shank of a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. The pivot bolt holes in the brackets are
elongated (vertically) to allow for camber adjustment at the pivot point, so I
guess you could substitute normal grade 8 bolts for their "cam" bolts and maybe
have a pivot point w/ more resistance to horizontal (cornering) forces.

Oh well, I know a lot of these details are specific to TTB trucks (just beyond
the scope of this list), but I figured some of you guys might be interested
anyway. Besides, I did start out talking about an FE engine.

A big (*BIG*) thanks to my donk buddy Jeff for helping out w/ this project,
letting me use his air tools and get his driveway dirty, and lending a little
oxy-acetyline "persuasion" to those nasty old rubber bushings and recalcitrant
shackle bolts. (BTW, Jeff and I met on the FTE 61-79 list almost two years ago.
This list is GREAT! I used to think I knew a lot about Ford trucks, but I've
learned a lot more on this list than I thought I knew before.)

Dave R (M-block devotee)


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:36:39 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Finally, a couple of pictures.

Who's the mascott in the back ground? :-) SWMBO doesn't come to mind
immediately :-) Looks like her name might be....... Pearl? :-)

I love to see old trucks with sheet metal on them instead of rust like all
of mine. Makes me jealous :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I finally got a couple of pictures of my F-350 Crewcab up. I am sorry
>
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/other.html

The pictures are at the bottom. Boy do I like playing with the pearl
paints.
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:37:11 EST
From: LovBNBad aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - bio

HI ALL MY NAME IS JAMES ADDONIZIO AND I AM A FORDAHOLIC.BEEN ON THE LIST FOR
BOUT 4 MONTHS NOW I'M ALSO THE VOYEUR OF THE LIST.45 YRS OLD IN PROCESS OF A
UGLY DIVORCE ,AFTER 17 YRS.2 KIDS 11,15 .RESIDE IN NO.SAN DIEGO AREA ,SAN
MARCOS SELF EMPLOYED BUSINESS OWNER IN THE FLOORING TRADE."WE LAY ANYTHING"
IN AUGUST I PURCASED A 66 F-250 LWB 352 FORD MATIC ? NO POWER ANYTHING
.STARTED FIXIN A FEW ITEMS WHICH HAS LEAD TO MORE WHICH HAS LEAD TO EVEN MORE
ITEMS.PRESENTLY SITTING IN DRIVE W/BAD MOTOR .HAVE A BAD THUMPIN IN THE
BOTTOM END .SOON AS I GET SOME XTRA $$$$$$$$$ ITS COMEIN OUT 4 A
REBUILD.GREATLY ENJOYED ALL POSTS ON THE LIST HAS HELPED ME UNDERSTAND THE FE
MOTOR LITTLE BIT BETTER .HAVE HAD FORD TRUCKS FROM LAST 3 CENTURYS NOW
AND FE WAS NEW ONE ON ME .OK NUFF RAMBLEIN ON GREAT TO MEET ALL OF U LOOKIN
FORWARD TO LONG RELATION SHIP ,JAMES
P.S.LISA MAIL MEOFF LINE IF U'D LIKE A STICKER FOR YOUR TRUCK.JUST SO HAPPENS
MY SONS RIDES FOR A SK8BOARD CO.ENVY,THOUGHT IT APPROPRIATE
James








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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:41:31 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Clutch not quite right

Well, the truck's back on the road after putting in the new clutch and
fulcrum for the clutch fork. The pedal action is just fine BUT - - -
there's a light scraping noise, sort of a whirring, that wasn't there
before. The noise disappears when I depress the pedal.

Is it likely that the mechanic didn't install the thing properly? Is it
a job that's easy to mess up if you're not an expert? Most of all, would
fixing it mean he has to take the whole thing out and practically do it
all over?

Denny
'72 F-100 360 2WD Manual everything, 140K
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:40:29 PST
From: "eldon eversull"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - MO' INFO

I have been mainly lurking since November 1997. I am 45 years old, an
agricultural economist, and live in Northern VA. Fred is a 1964 F100 that
is cubic inch challenged (ie he needs Gary to donate a spare 460 his way).
I have owned Fred about 3 years and have sunk more money in him than he
could possibly haul. He is painted grey and needs most of the interior
refurbished and the bed floor is a mess.

I grew up on a farm in Iowa, learning to drive D*dge pickups. Dad always
had Mop*rs until he was 82 and bought a 1989 Taurus SW. He liked Fords and
has bought a 91 and 96 Taurus SW. I bought his 89 and thus switched to
Fords also.

I do a lot of home remodelling type work in my spare time, so had to have a
pickem up truck. Fred hardly qualifies, he is a short bed, and like I said,
his bed is of questionable quality.

I haven't gotten much grief from my friends for having Fred around. I guess
they think he fits in, something to do with my having commuted over 11,000
miles in traffic on a bicycle into Washington, DC over the last 8 years may
suggest some lack of common sense in my life.

I'm on digest and as several have mentioned, if I see something to comment
on, several have done so by the time I read the question. I enjoy this
group and all Ken has done to make it a good one.

______________________________________________________
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:40:52 -0500
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Shooting out of gear

Kory writes: >>But wait, there's more...if I don't double clutch shifting up
into 3rd it grinds every time.

Sure sign of Syncronizers shot, or clutch not releasing. You're going to have
determine which and if it is the tranny, you'll have to open it up and go
through it. Does it go in 1st gear Ok when you 1st take off???? If it goes in
1st OK from start up, then it will most likely be the syncros.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:05:04 -0900
From: "4Travis"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Well here goes...

Hi I guess it's my turn to spill my guts online. My name is Geffrey Travis
and I live in Anchorage Alaska (hey Tim we otta get together sometime and
swap truck stories). I have been a fire fighter for the Anchorage Fire
Department for 23 years. I've been married for 19 years and have two kids,
an 11 year old daughter and a 10 year old son.

Like Tim I am also doing a ground up restoration on a 74 F250 FWD with a
300 I-6. I am kinda embarassed to admit this but I have been working on it
for 14 years! It has not been on the road since 1985. Talk about mad
wives! She has threatend to divorce me over this crazy project more than
once. I didn't start out to do a complete resto on this rig. I crashed it
and went to replace a fender and the next thing I know I have it ripped down
to the frame sand blasting it and wondering what the hell am I doing? I
have not worked on this project steadily there have been times when it has
sat untouched for a year then I would go out and try to figure out where I
left off and start working on it again. I have threatened to sell it twice
and just get rid of it but have never been able to do it, even when some guy
was standing there waving money in my face... My wife has just about given
up on ever being able to use the garage. I have to get the damn thing
finished so I can move and buy a bigger house.

I have rebuilt or replaced practicly every component on this truck.
Like I said I stripped it to the frame and sand blasted every thing in site
including the cab and axles. I rebuilt the rear axle and installed a
Detroit locker the front is a Danna 44 "heavy hub" from a mid sixties ford
truck (don't ask me why I chose this axle other than I thought it looked
better than the original one). I had a hell of a time finding seals for the
ball socket joints I polished the ball on this axle to look like a giant
ball bearing. I painted both axles "John Deere Tractor Green" as that is
the color the rest of the truck will be. I installed axle trusses front and
rear and dual "velocity sensitive" shocks front and rear: I arched the
springs two inches and installed urethane bushings. I replaced the front
frame cross member with a 3/8 inch steel plate I fabricated since the
original got bent in the crash. I have the "narrow" frame so I couldn't
find tanks to fit so I built my own tanks out of 1/8 inch plate. One on the
left side (15 Gal) one between the frames in the rear behind the axle (25
gallons). This required moving the rear cross member and fabricating a new
one further forward as well as at the end of the frame and tank support
mounts with integrated shock mounts blah blah blah. I took the tank out
from behind the cab and sealed off the opening (have a mig welder) I
replaced the floor of the cab on both sides due to rust as well as the front
cab supports I used galvinized steel of the nest largest gauge on the floor.
I am using urethane body mounts I also installed a 3 inch channel cross
piece across the rear mounts for added support. The whole front clip is new
as well as the radiator I am using an electric fan and electric fuel pump.
I have rebuilt the tranny and transfer case (4spd with divorced transfer
case) and replace all three drive shafts.

The engine is the original 300 cubic inch six I bored it .060 over with
"hyperautetic" cast pistons with a 9 to 1 compression ratio. I repalce all
the bearings and oil pump installed a Cliffords 270 degree RV cam with high
performance lifters chrome molley push rods high performance dual springs
chrome molley retainers and hardened steel keepers. I am using Cliffords
roller rockers and stainless intake and exhaust valves with teflon valve
seals I have a Cliffords 4barrell water heated intake manifold....


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