61-79-list-digest V3 #413

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61-79-list-digest Thursday, November 11 1999 Volume 03 : Number 413

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals
RE: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals
RE: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals
Re: FTE 61-79 - Driving Rules
RE: FTE 61-79 - Rockettes , Rockets and life....
RE: Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque & Rockets.....
FTE 61-79 - Re:Torque
Re: FTE 61-79 - Rockettes , Rockets and life....
FTE 61-79 - ATF in the carb
FTE 61-79 - 390 Solid-Cam Mods
Re: FTE 61-79 - Unibody sighting
Re: FTE 61-79 - Unibody sighting
FTE 61-79 - timing lights
FTE 61-79 - measuring current and timing lights
FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings
FTE 61-79 - driving rules
FTE 61-79 - Fuel problems?? -- missing
FTE 61-79 - Manuals
RE: FTE 61-79 - Fuel problems?? -- missing
Re: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals
RE: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals
FTE 61-79 - New to list....
Re: FTE 61-79 - That clutch fork again
Re:FTE 61-79 - That clutch fork again
FTE 61-79 - Pics of my truck
RE: FTE 61-79 - Pics of my truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pics of my truck
Re: FTE 61-79 - New to list....
FTE 61-79 -Latest developments re clutch
Re: FTE 61-79 - M blocks back from the dead
FTE 61-79 - Fw: transfer case problem?
RE: Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque
Re: FTE 61-79 - New to list....
Re: Re:FTE 61-79 - That clutch fork again
FTE 61-79 - 170 c.i. hopups?
Re: FTE 61-79 - New to list....
Re: FTE 61-79 - 170 c.i. hopups?

=======================================================================

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:37:11 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals

As I understand it, the main reason they leak with synthetic is due to the
"wetness" or flow ability of the oil. Because of this property it is more
difficult to seal. Detergent action is probably no more agressive than
premium dyno oils but certainly could be more agressive than cheap or non
detergent oils for sure.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have heard that using synthetic oils in an old engine will
> cause leaks
> to occur do to the detergents in the oil. Is this true? cause if it
> isn't next time I change the fluids I will be using it.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:51:57 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals

How many hours does it take to go 5000 miles in a car? At 60 mph it takes
83 hours so the usage compares pretty well I think? I believe we changed
the engine oil every 25 hours and the gear boxes at different intervals so
actually the engine, due to much higher stresses on the oil in a turbine
environment, only went 1500 car miles or so even with polymer synthetic in
it. All (virtually all) stationary and heavy equipment engines are serviced
based on info from an hour meter, not mileage. If you think about it, hours
are actually a better way to determine oil usage, wear etc.. The fact that
these engines have no odometers attached to them has nothing to do with it
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Ya sure, ya betcha, but how many miles is 25 hours in a jet?
> It takes 5 hours
> to cross the country in one direction, and 3 1/2 the other,
> thats a ton
> of miles
> when you think about it....
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:23:36 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals

Yes but remember, the interval also depends on usage so if you go off road
or don't change the air filter often enough you need to change the oil more
often too :-) 7k miles is based on expressway driving or similar
conditions, not around town, stop and go or off road conditions. I'm sure
Burt knows this, just reminding those who may have missed this in their
owners manuals :-)

EFI has made life a lot easier for engines due to less fuel contamination of
the oil which, along with better oils IMNSHO is the primary reason we see so
many cars running well past 100k now days. Some improvements have been made
in the materials used in the engine itself too but not that significant
except for the pistons AFAIK. Bearings are made of the same material they
were made of 40 years ago, rods are still forged steel and cast iron has
been perfected for almost that long as well. Improvements in machining,
combustion chamber shape, valve material, seat material have been made but
other factors such as lean burn, EGR and unleaded fuel have basically
canceled most of those gains, again, IMNSHO :-)

Keep your choke adjusted on your spread bore carbed engine and maintain the
other aspects of good tune including the air filter and you will enjoy the
same long life EFI engines enjoy :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> etc... As Gary
> says the oils do get contaminated over time, but the change interval
> specified by the manufactures has been proven for a good
> number of years now.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:49:25 EST
From: GMontgo930

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Driving Rules

Sounds a great deal like Orlando also!

In a message dated 11/09/1999 11:43:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bakergene

hotmail.com writes:

The city can be changed to reflect your hometown.

The 19 Cardinal Rules Of Driving In Dallas:

1. A right lane construction closure is just a game to see how many
people can cut in line by passing you on the right as you sit in the
left lane waiting for the same jerks to squeeze their way back in before
hitting construction barrels. Bonus points are awarded for getting out of
your car
and moving the barrels.

2. Turn signals provide clues as to your next move in the road battle so
never use them.

3. Under no circumstances should you leave a safe distance between your
car and the car in front of you no matter how fast you're going.
If you do, the space will be filled in by somebody else putting you
in an even more dangerous situation.

4. The faster you drive through a red light, the less your chances of
getting hit.

5. The car with the most extensive body work automatically has the right
of way. (Remember no fault insurance. He might not have as much to lose as
you do.)

6. Braking is to be done as hard and late as possible to insure that
your anti lock braking system kicks in to give
you a nice relaxing foot massage as the brake pedal pulsates.

7. Construction signs are carefully positioned to tell you about road
closures immediately after you pass the last opportunity to exit, but
just before the traffic begins to back up.

8. The electronic traffic warning system signs are not there to provide
useful information, but just to tell time and make Dallas look
progressive.

9. Never pass on the left when you can pass on the right.
It's a good way to scare people entering the highway.
Passing on the shoulder is encouraged. That's why they're paved.

10. Speed limits are arbitrary figures to make Texas look as if it
conforms with other state policies; these are intended only as
suggestions and are actually unenforceable.

11. Just because you're in the left lane and have no room to speedup or
move over doesn't mean that a driver on 635, flashing his high beams
behind you, doesn't think he can go faster in your spot.

12. Please remember that there is no such thing as a shortcut during
rush hour traffic on I-35, I 635 (LBJ) or 75 Central Expressway.

13. Always slow down and rubberneck when you see an accident or even a
person changing a tire.
If you're lucky, you may see the unlucky breakdown victim get mugged.

14. Learn to swerve abruptly.
Dallas is the home of very high speed slalom driving thanks to
Texas DOT, who put potholes in key locations to test drivers' reflexes
and keep them on their toes.
Parts of truck tires are left on new highways
where potholes haven't yet been established.

15. It is considered correct in Dallas to honk your
horn at cars that don't move the instant the light changes.
Our city is founded upon such traditions.

16. Seeking eye contact with another driver automatically revokes your
right of way.

17. Giving the finger may invite armed retaliation.
Be sure that your rifle is on the gun rack in the rear window
and visible rather than lying on the seat, and in range to pick up easily.

18. When in doubt, remember that all unmarked exits lead to Oklahoma.

19. You don't have to wait for an exit to get off a
freeway, just follow the ruts in the grass to the frontage road like
everyone else. This is how Dallas residents notify the Texas DOT
where exits should have been built.

>>
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:53:47 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Rockettes , Rockets and life....

Unless I misunderstood her point she was supporting our argument? Some of
these posts are hard to decipher due to mixing the other guy's comments in
but I thought she said: "Men collect things they can use, women collect
things that are pretty and have no function" ?

The biggest contention my wife and I have is the "Schedule" by which things
get done, her things or my things.....The house is a good example, one time
we went to get "a" recliner for the living room and tile for the kitchen.
They had two recliners and the price was pretty good so, because she had a
"vision" of where to put them in our tiny house we got "Two" along with the
tile. Another case is that I need to fix some wall boards, wiring and
insulation when I side the end of the house but she doesn't understand I
have to get up in the attic and modify a lot of wiring up there before I can
fix the wiring in the walls. I have to remove some wall boards to access
this stuff so I don't damage interior walls in the process and when all that
is done I can begin what I calculate will take me at least 3 or 4 days to
finish with the siding itself. Cold weather is threatening any day so I
have no guarantee that once I have it on I can then paint it or even caulk
it so I decided to caulk the leaks and do it in the spring when it's warm
and I have more time to do a good job. OTOH, I can work in my barn
regardless of weather so opted to do some work there and spend some money on
my white room which also happens to be the storage space for much of her
kid's possesions we are storing. She argues that I am being selfish, I
argue she doesn't understand all the details that go into her request for
siding so the barn is getting done and the siding is waiting till spring but
she is not a happy camper in any case :-(

I have vacation I can take during this "Indian Summer" but am saving that
for PF next year. This is for her benefit since we don't get any other
vacations to go anywhere and enjoy ourselves. This year I took days without
pay to be there, next year I want a whole week and I want to get paid for it
:-) Her comment to me was: " Well you got your indian summer so why haven't
you started on the siding yet?"

I honestly try to schedule things in a manner that will allow me to get them
done well but she says I'm procrastinating........I guess it depends on what
side of the fence you're on :-)

Like I said, I don't think I was cut out for married life, my logic and
women's logic are just too different :-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I want to apologize for the Rock's outburst, When (before) we
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:56:01 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque & Rockets.....

Rockette, er I mean SWMBO......:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> There IS a pan to stick a 460 in a Mustang, and headers for the same,
> and the T-Bird is a Fox Body......
>
>
> So whats stoppin' ya??
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:58:16 -0500
From: Steve Schaefer
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:Torque

> I wanna see that Gary ... I want to see you take the FI system and drop that
> on a 460 and stuff the whole thing in the engine bay of your bird ... that
> would crack me up ... :) (yes I realize you'd have to upgrade the FI a bit
> to feed the extra 2 cyls)

It is alot easier than you think to FI a big block. It is a lot of fun when it is done. I've done one wild
one and doing a mild one right now. Big smile factors.

> There IS a pan to stick a 460 in a Mustang, and headers for the same,
> and the T-Bird is a Fox Body......

Sorry, 89-97 T-Birds are not on the fox platform I have to make a set of headers to put a 351w (stroked to
408) into my 90 T-Bird. The steering shaft, and crossmember gets in the way of fox platform longtube
headers.

FTE content #1. I have the 460 on the stand for the crewcab that will be carrying this Bird to and from the
track.
FTE content #2. Yesterday on the way home I saw a 65-66 Mercury pickup here in Erie PA. It was green and
white and very pretty truck. I saw it heading toward me and thought what a nice looking truck out this late
in the year, hey wait a minute, there is more then 4 letters (FORD) on that hood :>). Sweet seeing
something like that.

Steve S.
76 F-350 Crewcab (finally painted/waiting for 460)
77 F-250 Supercab (yellow/purple)
Just FT, the rest are on my site.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/8663/

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:09:20 EST
From: TBeeee

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Rockettes , Rockets and life....

In a message dated 11/10/99 7:56:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gpeters3

visteon.com writes:

> I'm procrastinating........I guess it depends on what
> side of the fence you're on :-)

Yes it does! I find the trick to completing any project is the dire sense of
urgency associated with it. For instance, I routinely schedule all interior
remodeling projects to be completed within split second timing of a guests
arrival (usually out of town family). I am also a firm believer that
procrastination pays off. You ever hear that phrase "Good things come to
those who wait"; I feel it supports my theory. The trick is knowing how
long to wait. FTE content--my 4x4 is not yet prepped for plowing. I
anticipate that I won't need it to actually plow the driveway for several
weeks. I will likely wait a *few* more weeks anyway before even starting.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:13:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - ATF in the carb

>An old trick I was taught was the Diesel solution,
>that was try and
>keep
>the motor and WOT and pour as much down the throat as
>possible with out

>stalling. Do this in an unpopulated area due to lots
>of smoke.
>I've never really taken a motor apart after doing
that >to see if it
>worked.
>Has anyone else done this and did it really help?
>(decrease blowby &
>oil
>consumption)
>Marvin

I've done it through the years on an annual basis on
my old stuff. I don't reccomend it for late models
though, with cats. The results upon teardown show
that it seems to keep the carbon deposits clear. The
valves and rings seem freer and clear of the chunks of
grit deposits that you usually get in old age. If an
engine is worn and your blow-by is caused by out of
round or tapered cylinders, nothing poured down the
cylinder will help.

On the other hand if the engine has sat awhile and
wants to smoke a little, or seems to have a stuck open
valve, the ATF or some other reccommended compound can
clear the deposits that will cause a ring or valve to
stick. This will be the only way it will cure a
problem, it's really more as a maintenence thing to
do.
As maintenence, pour 1/2 quart of ATF down the carb,
while it's running, and as you get down to the botttom
of what you're pouring in, drown it till the engine
dies. Let it sit for 30 min, even an hour. Start it
up and take it up the road and run like you're running
in a set a rings. Accellerate with moderate authority
and genlty deccellerate, just like when you're
breaking in a new set. It will smoke a while then
clear out. Run it out, then change your plugs. Run
the other 1/2 qt of ATF in your oil until your next
oil change. This will do wonders for sticky oil
rings.

=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:42:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Ballinger
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390 Solid-Cam Mods

Well, I finally got the '69 390 shortblock apart and
ready to go to the machine shop. It had over 200,000
on it and we didn't even have to ream it to get the
pistons out. No ridge, and the crank looks perfect.
I plan to see if we can just hone it and use STD size
TRW forged flat-tops which should come in around 9.5
to 1 CR. It's going to a very good machine shop to be
tanked measured and machined, but I hope it only needs
honed. Virgin bores you know, and it keeps the CR
down a little bit.

I plan to use a Crane Fireball 294 solid cam, specs
227

.050 and .523 lift, and would appreciate it if
some one has the info on what to do to the oiling
system to convert to a mechanical valvetrain, and
reccomended oiling mods for performance use,
that they would copy and send it to me so I can send
the info to the machine shop with the block. I can
remember alot of it, but the info from a book might
work better for them. I plan to have them drill the
pump to filter passage out, maybe even the filter to
main galley if I can get the right direction on how
big it can go.(I think it's 1/2 inch) I also seem to
remember that you block the lifter galleys, but I
can't remember what you have to do to oil the lifters
if you do this. It seems like you use a special set
of cam bearings that are grooved to feed them if the
main to lifter galley is blocked. It's been awhile
since I've seen this done(over 20 years) Also it seems
there's something about the bypass spring that you do
too.

Anyway, some diagrams and dimensions that I can take
to the shop would surely be better than my failing
memory. I wish I had Steve Christ's book back ( a
friend still hasn't returned it after 5 years) since I
think this is all covered in it . I'm too cheap to
buy another one, unless I have to :-)

=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:52:42 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Unibody sighting

Thanks for your message at 07:07 PM 11/9/99 -0800, S.Harkema. Your message
was:
>I remember awhile back a discussion about Big Rear Window Unibodies.
>There is a very nice Pro-Street S/B one featured in this month's
>Truckin' magazine.
> I have only seen one of these beauties and it was a long bed.
Probably because, according to my sources, Ford made only 100 short bed
wraparounds. The only one I have seen "in the flesh" is mine. I have seen
a few long boxes...

Thanks for the tip.

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>
>
Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:59:19 -0800
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Unibody sighting

Thanks for your message at 10:55 PM 11/9/99 -0800, Mike Sealey. Your
message was:
.
>
>Last BRW Unibody I saw was a '61 Mercury M-100, in Seattle (140 miles
south of the Great White North).
>
>Wouldn't I love to have gotten my mitts on *that*...
>
I would have liked to have just seen that one...maybe with my camera in
hand....

Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~dlpearson/levi.htm
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:31:29 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - timing lights

Pat,

Thanks for the detailed description of each type. I pick curtain #3. I have
an inductive light with a plastic case, so I don't get zapped anymore. I
have used both #1 and #2. A good inductive pickup timing light is well worth
the money if you use a timing light on a regular basis.

BTW, my uncle used to check for a dead cylinder by touching the wires. The
one that didn't shock him was the dead one. He always was sort of goofy.....

- -- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:50:42 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Wheel bearings

Well after hearing what sounded like a spring dragging on the inside of the
drum on the front left wheel for the last couple years and having it
suddenly get worse this past month or so I decided to take a look at it ...
somewhat spurred by Gary's finding of his wheelbearings welding themselves
together and my need to keep driving my truck.

So last night I finally started looking into it ... when I could shake the
wheel back and forth and cause a huge clunk, I was pretty sure I'd found the
noise ... so I pulled the wheel off and Carrie decided to jump in and help
me out ... so we pulled the hub off, used a screw driver to pull the snap
rings out (note to self: get snap-ring pliers) she was somewhat impressed
with all the gears (and that I actually understood how it worked:) and just
enthralled with the grease ... so like a little kid she played with all the
really greasy parts for me ... when we got to the wheel bearings she was
able to reach her small hands in there and unscrew both the nuts with no
problem, didn't even need the socket. Once the outside one was in our hands
we found why they were probably not seated right ... whoever had worked on
these since me (I had looked at them when I first got the truck, since then
2 different companies have had the front end apart) had used the old chisel
and hammer approach to seating the ring ... i was not a very happy camper,
but the inside one revealed no such damage. Pulling the bearings out showed
no discoloration or anything ... the spindle is showing some wear, but
nothing dangerous... so we repacked the bearings and put it back together
using the torque wrench and correct socket this time.

Once all back together, no more noise and it seems to drive a bit better ...
probably something about the wheel not changing alignment as rapidly as
before...

As an interesting side note, I was talking with a friend of mine at the
local parts store (Jocko's) and found that he has a complete front axle off
of a 78ish 1/2ton that he will sell me! Finally can get all the stuff I
need to put disc brakes on the front!

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:46:48 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - driving rules

Gene,

There is one aid. Peel the Dallas car dealer sticker/emblem off of your
trunk/taolgate and put one from your home town on there. Then the locals
know you don't belong and are more likely to avoid you. The Lincoln has a
Bill McDavid emblem on the trunk. The last time I was in Dallas was a
nightmare.

- -- John
jlagrone

deluxe.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel problems?? -- missing

Well you can never have everything working right at the same time right?
It seems that I now have a problem with my engine missing (not a missing
engine). It only seems to do it when it is warm and only when accelerating
after slowing way down or sitting at a stop light. It will sit and idle
smooth and act as if nothing is the matter and then when I accelerate it
starts to miss sputter and even backfire if I am mashing the pedal down
(again only when engine is hot and been running for a while). It feels
like it is flooding or starving for gas (I am not much in the fuel
diagnosis dept.) but once it does get up to speed it cruises fine and acts
as if nothing is the matter. Is this the fuel pump going bad, or the carb,
or something else? It is a fairly new edelbrock 750 cfm #1411, put on by
previous owner and has worked great before this. If it is the carb can you
be as specific as possible, I am really clueless in this area. Let me know
if you need more info and or details to help nail this down. You all are
the best!!!!!!!!!!!

David John
78 F250 4x4 Supercab 460, C6

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:09:55 -0800
From: "S.Harkema"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Manuals

>You can get ford service manual reprints and sometimes used original >through Amazon, Faxon and others.

I got complete set of 76 manuals from a guy on ebay for $50.
Be prepared for a bidding war with a guy mamed persico(sp)
He bids on all the neat Ford stuff.

(How's the Hi-Boy comin'along Tony?:)
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:56:48 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Fuel problems?? -- missing

Fuel pump won't do this because at idle it will fill the float bowls and the
engine will have plenty of fuel for a short burst of WOT and then would die,
same with a fuel filter etc.. A float set too high could do this or a vac
not working properly or a fouled plug which fires intermittantly and, though
I've not seen it myself, they say a bad exhaust leak might do something like
this but seems like you would be aware of that if bad enough to cause a
problem.

Back fire is caused by fuel burning long after it's supposed to and lighting
the incoming charge or firing long before it's supposed to and doing the
same thing. Over rich mixtures can do this because the fuel continues to
burn after the exhaust stroke is finished and the intake begins to open
(this is VERY rich), bad vacs can do this if they stick at full advance and
one other thing I didn't mention, a burned intake valve can do this. Burned
intake valves generally only back fire under load such as accellerating from
a stop but when very bad can cause popping all the time too. By then the
vehicle is almost undrivable though, usually.

Remember, back fire is through the carb, after fire is in the muffler and
can be caused by rich mixtures, bad exhaust valves and retarded timing among
other things.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> It seems that I now have a problem with my engine missing
> (not a missing
> engine). It only seems to do it when it is warm and only
> when accelerating
> after slowing way down or sitting at a stop light. It will
> sit and idle
> smooth and act as if nothing is the matter and then when I
> accelerate it
> starts to miss sputter and even backfire if I am mashing the
> pedal down
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:19:32 EST
From: SHill48337

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals

In a message dated 11/10/1999 3:40:22 AM Pacific Standard Time,
gpeters3

visteon.com writes:

"wetness" or flow ability of the oil. Because of this property it is more
difficult to seal. Detergent action is probably no more agressive than
premium dyno oils but certainly could be more agressive than cheap or non
detergent oils for sure. >>
Gary- Most synthetics do have a better wetting characteristic than other oils
and this could in some cases allow the oil to creep into areas that it might
not otherwise, but not run into those areas. Please do not confuse the
wetting ability with the internal resistance to flow of a fluid. Most
synthetics move through the system with less energy required to pump due to
the monocles being of the same approximate size. It is not like trying to
pump basket balls and marbles together. One of the major benefits of the
wetting ability is it causes the fluid's ability to absorb or reject heat to
increase dramatically. This saves engines, my wife ran 30 miles + in over
100 degrees outside air temperature with no water in the 1970 429 engine or
radiator, and caused absolutely no problems to the engine. The oil was
darker, spark plugs OK, compression remained the same, and the engine ran for
several year afterwards with no problems. The synthetic detergent action is
considerably higher than conventional oil, but that difference has been
narrowed in the last few years, as I mentioned in a previous post some
detergent packages are almost the same as for a conventional oil. However,
there are different types of base stocks for synthetics, some are diesters
that have a definite synergistic effect on detergency. Detergency and a base
stock that does not break down are key factors for long drain intervals. I
obviously think synthetics are one the best inventions this century for our
Ford Trucks. Thanks for the opportunity to discuss.
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:41:04 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Lubricants!! and Manuals

Hmmmmmmmmm, sort of like berm mix eh? Pea gravel flows easily but berm mix
basically doesn't flow :-) In fact if synthetic is like pea gravel it can
build oil pressure with out being pumped......:-) When I installed my lift
in the barn it was back filled with pea stone. The book said not to tamp it
but I wanted to make sure it got all the way under the lift housing so
"gently" tamped it to distribute it only, not to compact it and it raised
the 1800# lift! Fortunately I caught what was happening in time to gently
rock it back down sufficiently to make it fit the floor level I had planned
:-)

Heat sinking is probably one of the reasons they like it in aircraft turbin
engines too :-) Kind of a nice side effect to the indestructable molecules
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> synthetics move through the system with less energy required
> to pump due to
> the monocles being of the same approximate size. It is not
> like trying to
> pump basket balls and marbles together. One of the major
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:53:27 -0800
From: "Jerry Godsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - New to list....

Hello, all.
My name is Jerry Godsey. I just traded my 70 Cougar XR7 for a 65 Ford
Econoline pickup. It is unbelievably straight! Brand new motor, fresh
paint, newly redone seats. Very nice.
I am looking for other owners of these trucks to get as much info as
possible.
Personal stuff: I am 40 years old, have two teenage boys (my sixteen year
old drives an 88 F-150 XLT), I serve a pastor of Delano First Assembly of
God church in Delano, CA (30 miles north of Bakersfield).
I look forward to being on this list.
Blessings,
Jerry Godsey
65 Ford Econoline (the new toy)
95 Ford Aerostar (the wife's ride)
88 Ford F-150 (my son's project)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:46:29 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - That clutch fork again

Denny wrote...
> I suppose the old rivets have to be drilled out by the machine shop, and
> the fulcrum attached with the new rivets, but I was wondering if anyone
> had any better or easier method that they had been successful with.

I used a high speed hand air drill with high quality bit to remove the 2
old rivets (after using a centerpunch to start the bit). Couldn't find an
exact replacement rivet for reassembly so I used bolts of the same shape
(tappered head to fit counterbore in bellhousing) with lock nuts. After
tightening the fulcrum into place, I used a mini die grinder & carbide bit
to trim the end of the bolt & nut so they didn't contact the clutch release
lever.

> Also, since I have no picture of the fulcrum in place (neither the
> Chilton book nor the Ford dealer's files show it), I'm not sure of how
> things fit together. If you're looking at the thing from above, facing
> the front of the truck, does the L-shaped bracket face the way this "L"
> faces, or does it face the oppposite way, __I ?

The bracket I replaced on a 69 F250 with 390 looked like " _| " from the
possition you describe.

> On the rear side of the clutch fork, there's a tongue made of spring
> steel that engages the slot in the "upright" part of the L-shaped
> bracket. Does only the tip of the tongue go thru the slot, or does it go
> thru further, so that the slot is in the semi-circular part of the
> tongue? (I wish there was a way to attach a sketch to this email.)

Not much more than the "tip of the tongue" goes through the slot on the
pivot bracket. The release lever should have a groove on it which rests on
the pivot bracket that positions it.

> And I have no idea what the little wire spring is supposed to do.

There should be a spring with one end attached to the outside end of the
release lever & the other end to the frame, but I wouldn't call it a "little
wire spring".

> What about welding?

Welding the bracket to the bellhousing would work I guess, but I would
rather rivet or bolt it into place.

BTW:) I can't help but imagine what caused the failure of the fulcrum in the
first place. Wouldn't it be possible for damaged motor & transmission mounts
to lead to a damaged fulcrum inside the bell housing?

Danger
danger

csolutions.net

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:54:20 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny"
Subject: Re:FTE 61-79 - That clutch fork again

I see that I posted the letter last night too soon. This morning, after
getting a better look at the inside of the bell housing, and examining
all the marks and clues, it seems pretty obvious how everything fits
together and works. At least almost everything. I guess the lesson I
should learn from this is to open things up and have a good look in good
light instead of trying to guess what the problem is.

It turns out that the "bracket" that serves as a fulcrum for the clutch
fork broke off -- the upright part broke off at the bend, leaving the
base riveted to the bell housing. (I had been looking in the wrong place
before and didn't see it).

The only thing that I cant figure out now is where the little wire thing
goes, or what purpose it serves. It's shaped like ^\__/^.

I wrote:
> I need to ask the list about my broken clutch release again. (72 F-100,
> 360 V8. 4-speed manual. 2 WD).
(snip)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:58:40 -0800
From: "Jerry Godsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pics of my truck

Here are links to the truck I traded my beloved Cat for. And yes, I do
miss her, but this truck is fun. I have Moon aluminum discs to replace the
grandpa hubcaps!
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/cab.jpg
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/engine.jpg
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/front.jpg
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/truck.jpg
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/tail.jpg
Let me know what you think (other than that I was crazy!)
Blessings,
Jerry Godsey

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 14:14:21 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Pics of my truck

> Here are links to the truck I traded my beloved Cat for. And yes, I do
> miss her, but this truck is fun. I have Moon aluminum discs to
> replace the
>

Well since my first car was a 69 Cat I have to say you're crazy :) but I
always thought those were pretty cool trucks. And of course a rust free one
would just not exsist around this neck of the woods so I'm awed by it :)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:23:49 -0500
From: tfreeman

murphyfarms.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pics of my truck

I don't know that I would've traded the "Cat" for it, but I "LIKE IT!!"

- -Ted

"Jerry Godsey" on 11/10/99 02:58:40 PM

Please respond to 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com

To: "Ford Truck List"
cc: (bcc: Ted Freeman/MURPHY_FAMILY_FARMS)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pics of my truck

Here are links to the truck I traded my beloved Cat for. And yes, I do
miss her, but this truck is fun. I have Moon aluminum discs to replace the
grandpa hubcaps!
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/cab.jpg
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/engine.jpg
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/front.jpg
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/truck.jpg
www.geocities.com/heartland/meadows/4275/tail.jpg
Let me know what you think (other than that I was crazy!)
Blessings,
Jerry Godsey

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 17:04:06 EST
From: Bad4dFilly

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New to list....

In a message dated 11/10/1999 7:05:36 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
godzilla

lightspeed.net writes:

old drives an 88 F-150 XLT), >>

*Perk* is HE gonna be on the list at all? *wink* I'd love to talk to him! My
boyfriend might get jealous though! =)

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys....trucks are for GIRLS!!~*~*i
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 14:54:01 -0700
From: "Kiernan, Denny"
Subject: FTE 61-79 -Latest developments re clutch

As soon as I think I've got this clutch thing figured out, the plot
takes a new twist.

The mechanic called three different machine shops about drilling out the
old rivets and putting the new fulcrum in place, and all three refuse to
touch the job on the grounds that they might crack the bell housing. I'm
not sure if they mean by drilling out the old rivets or by knocking in
the new ones.

So now I'm thinking of how else it could be done. Welding the new
fulcrum on?

danger

csolutions.net wrote:

When I installed the last clutch assembly in my 69 with T18, I found
it
necessary to fabricate a new fulcrum (using pieces of old fulcrum as
pattern) from angle iron and to attach it to the bell housing with
special
bolts (tapered head to match counterbore hole in bell housing).

Did you have to drill holes for the bolts? And how were they held in?
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 17:50:22 -0700
From: mclough

page.az.net (Michael Clough)
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - M blocks back from the dead

On my 400, I have not yet stepped up to the aluminum intake and 4 barrel
because of the cost. I tried to spend the money on the internals and did
not have enough left over for that. Hopefully soon I can do that but I
still need 4 tires and a windshield plus my power-steering pump is
leaking everywhere. Anyway, my engine sounds remarkably similar to what
you were talking about and I am amazed with mines performance so far. I
still haven't been able to test its true potential but hopefully I will
get the miles on it soon. I did replace the valves with stainless ones
and add the Crane adjustable stud kit and roller rockers. The cam is a
speed-pro cs-1021r. I think you will be very happy with the results. I
know I am still smiling and can't wait to surprise some bow-tie owners.

later, mike
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 21:19:59 -0500
From: "Redden"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fw: transfer case problem?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Redden
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 11:57 AM
Subject: transfer case problem?

Been off of the list awhile; I only had an '84 F150 for the past year and a
half...
I recently bought an '71 F250 4x4. I never had 4 wheel drive before so I'm
trying to
learn more about front diff and transfer case.

During hiway driving the transfer case sometimes just goes into neutral from
2.
Of course I have to come to a complete stop to shift into 2 again. Not fun
on the
PA turnpike with no shoulders and semi-trailers closing in.

I first thought I just didn't have it into gear all the way or that the
linkage needed
adjustment. I adjusted the linkage and confirmed that I'm in gear solid.
Still does it. I've been told that the transfer case needs repair.
I can't think of anything else either.

Bought a Dana 24 out of a used truck parts place. They were skeptical that
anything could be wrong with the old one, but hey, I can use a spare!!

Any thoughts on this? Thanks for listening to my long post,

Mike

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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 18:26:10 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque

Seen kits to drop them in T-birds too.

Tom H.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.) [mailto:gpeters3

visteon.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 10:19 AM
To: '61-79-list

ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque

They put 'em in Pintos.......:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > Then there's that sick, weak
> > little 3.8 up
> > front and that 460 sitting on the barn floor so lonesome.........:-)
> >
>
> I wanna see that Gary ... I want to see you take the FI
> system and drop that
> on a 460 and stuff the whole thing in the engine bay of your
> bird ... that
> would crack me up ... :) (yes I realize you'd have to
> upgrade the FI a bit
> to feed the extra 2 cyls)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 22:00:03 EST
From: IanBoss69

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - New to list....

In a message dated 11/10/99 5:09:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Bad4dFilly

aol.com writes:

> *Perk* is HE gonna be on the list at all? *wink* I'd love to talk to him!
My
> boyfriend might get jealous though! =)
>

I thought I was the only one in your eyes Lisa, ;-)

Ian
79 F250 4x4 4spd 351M
True Blue Ford Blue
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 20:50:07 -0700
From: "Danger"
Subject: Re: Re:FTE 61-79 - That clutch fork again

> The only thing that I cant figure out now is where the little wire thing
> goes, or what purpose it serves. It's shaped like ^\__/^.

That sounds like one of the 2 clips that hold the throwout bearing onto
the release fork. (damaged throwout bearing maybe)

> Did you have to drill holes for the bolts?
> And how were they held in?

Yes, you must drill out the old rivets after using a center punch to
keep the drill bit from wandering. Locknuts inside the bellhousing hold the
new bolts & fulcrum into place (if not using rivets to reassemble).

Danger
danger

csolutions.net

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 20:52:59 -0800
From: "Jerry Godsey"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 170 c.i. hopups?

Does anybody know of any hop ups for the 170 c.i. in my 65 Econoline? I
love the truck, but if I run over gum on a hot day I'll get stuck!
I haven't found any aftermarket manifolds, etc to put a two barrel on this.....

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