61-79-list-digest V3 #410

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61-79-list-digest Monday, November 8 1999 Volume 03 : Number 410

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Ford has a new policy :-)
RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 M rebuild
RE: FTE 61-79 - 5.4 Towing? Forgidaboutit.
RE: FTE 61-79 - A LIL OFF SUBJECT BUT......
RE: FTE 61-79 - water temp high ?
FTE 61-79 - Torque
Re: FTE 61-79 - 5.4 Towing? Forgidaboutit.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Torque
RE: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs
FTE 61-79 - 360 Temperature sensor location?
RE: FTE 61-79 - water temp high ?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Torque
RE: FTE 61-79 - 360 Temperature sensor location?
RE: FTE 61-79 - winter tire pressure?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Torque
RE: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs
RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fluid coupler vs. Torque Converter
FTE 61-79 - Dim Taillight
FTE 61-79 - timing light
RE: FTE 61-79 - water temp high ?
RE: FTE 61-79 - winter tire pressure?
FTE 61-79 - torque converters
FTE 61-79 -
FTE 61-79 - gas and oil in south TX
FTE 61-79 - Another one saved from the reaper
RE: FTE 61-79 - timing light
RE: FTE 61-79 - timing light
RE: FTE 61-79 - torque convertor
RE: FTE 61-79 -
RE: FTE 61-79 - Entropy etc....
RE: FTE 61-79 - torque converters
RE: FTE 61-79 - 360 Temperature sensor location?
FTE 61-79 - White room, rebuilding stuff.....
FTE 61-79 - Re:400M & C6 into my 67'
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:400M & C6 into my 67'
FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switch
Re: FTE 61-79 - Entropy, Timing Lights:wq
RE: FTE 61-79 - timing lights and arguments
Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque
Re: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs
Re: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs
RE: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs
FTE 61-79 - intake manifold
RE: FTE 61-79 - torque converters
FTE 61-79 - ADMIN: (more) New feature for users

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 06:19:37 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Ford has a new policy :-)

Ford internal mail announced the following today. I just share an excerpt
from it leaving out key details so as not to infringe on Ford's privacy.
Thought you guys and gals would appreciate that times, they are a changin
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> On Monday, I went to Las Vegas for the annual meeting of the Specialty
> Equipment Market Association (SEMA). We announced a pilot program to
> share a wide range of technical information on Ford products with
> aftermarket parts manufacturers -- and are the first
> automaker to execute
> such a pilot.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 06:24:47 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 400 M rebuild

If you still have a vac, try manifold vacuum for it instead of ported. This
will increase the advance and "require" a lean idle mixture. If you are
useing manifold already you may have an air leak which is not sufficient to
bother the other operation modes but will affect idle since that is also the
highest vacuum mode.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> how to richen up the idle circuits on a 2v Motorcraft carb. Someone
> ditched all the thermactor stuff long ago and it has always had a very
> lean idle. I tried raising the float level but have to have
> the idle mix
> screws real loose to get a good idle.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 06:28:59 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 5.4 Towing? Forgidaboutit.

I towed my 9000# stake truck home with my Pinto one day :-) Kinda =
rough
gettin off the line but once rolling it went pretty well :-) Had the =
2000
engine.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=3D167
- --

> p.s. Of course, Dave did haul a motor to Ohio and back with=20
> his wife's car
> towing a little trailer. I think I heard the faint roar of a=20
> Powerstroke in
> it when he drove off. Was that a Gooseneck=81 brand trailer Dave? =
=3D)
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 07:42:29 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - A LIL OFF SUBJECT BUT......

It is quite practical too. If she tries a stunt and it fails then she has
an angry bull behind her who may be better at the sport than she is. What
do you suppose the outcome would be then? We're giving advice to a 17 year
old girl not a grizzled old cowboy, think about it :-) Is this the advice
you would give your own daughter?

I tell my daughter not to go to places where this could happen in the first
place and if it does to drive away and get out of the way as quickly as
possible to "AVOID" a conflict because she is not capable of campaigning
with an angry man or group of men who may or may not have weapons with any
assurance of success. There are too many variables which you have no way of
determining to be so sure of success and if there is no guarantee then
avoidance is the only sane solution IMNSHO.

I told my daughter she did not need to go into town at midnight with a
couple of other girl friends, by themselves, to a fast food place in a
section of town noted for occasional trouble. She said she would be fine
and took off only to discover after buying her stuff and parking in the back
corner of the parking lot to eat and giggle with her friends that the van
parked next to her was full of drug crazed gangsters and the car on the
other side was full of their enemys. Next thing she knew they were all over
the place swinging all manner of stuff at each other and she couldn't get
out because they had her blocked in. She sat tight and waited for an
opportunity and when she saw it she scooted right out of there with poopy
drawers (figuratively speaking). She has never done this again and she had
to admit the old man knew a little more about life than she did.

The only thing you gain by being the agressor, if you succeed, is a little
pride boost and bragging rights which won't buy you even a cup of coffee but
if it works out the other way you can loose property or even your life or
become responsible for taking someone elses life, perhaps an innocent
bystander or passenger and you can be sure that on top of the guilt you will
feel the rest of your life you will also be prosecuted.

At 18 I would not have listened to this advice either and even a few years
ago I tended to take action rather than give up what I considered to be my
rightfull space on the road but I have, as Soloman said, seen a lot in my
life and come to the conclusion that it is all vanity.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > Thank you Stock Man for agreeing with the sensible approach
> :-) Kids hear
> > all kinds of agressive, pridefull, fanatic survivalist
> stuff from uncles,
> > parents, grandparents, teachers and peers. Unfortunately, these
> > individuals
> > do not have to pay the price for following their advice.....
>
> It's the old argument between principle and practicality. I say if the
> jerk is deliberately tail-gaiting you, let him go thru the windshield.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:33:23 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - water temp high ?

I haven't studied the 335 series but the 385 series MUST have the heater
circuit working either via the heater core or via jumper tube between the
water pump outlet and thermostat housing or manifold (can't remember for
sure :-)) or the engine will over heat in a matter of only a minute or two
and will litterally blow the radiator cap off, well......open the Relief
valve anyway :-)

The heater circuit is crucial to proper circulation in the block before the
thermostat opens.

BTW, in this case, the radiator is still cold :-) Convection will
eventually begin to heat coolant in the radiator via the bottom hose which
is open to the block but it won't flow except for convection and the coolant
in the heads boils since it is not being circulated.

The problem you have "sounds" like a sender but if there are any signs of
heat and you do not have the heater circuit shunted or properly connected
this is a possibility.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

>
> soon as I start
> it, within 6-10 seconds, the temp gauge maxs out. Seems like
> it is too fast
> for the engine to get hot that fast, a short maybe ? >>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 07:36:39 -0600
From: "Jeffery Hansen"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Torque

Just for the asking - if I get my wife calmed down from the demands of
selling this truck of mine - if and when I convert it from the NP435 to a
C-6, with the 69 429 and 33 inch tires, 4:11 detroit locked gears Ford 9
inch rear, posi trak Danna 44 up front - what stall converter would be best?
Summitt catalog goes into explaing what a torque convert is/does - but they
don't explain exactly what the definition of "stall speed" is. Friend is
saying he's gonna get me a C-6 out of a Bronco, but that it don't have a
torque converter.
Jeffery A. Hansen, HMC(SW/AW/FMF) USN
Independent Duty Hospital Corpsman
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 13:49:05 +0000 (GMT)
From: David Henderson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 5.4 Towing? Forgidaboutit.

> p.s. Of course, Dave did haul a motor to Ohio and back with his wife's=
=20
car
> towing a little trailer. I think I heard the faint roar of a=20
Powerstroke in
> it when he drove off. Was that a Gooseneck=81 brand trailer Dave? =3D)=

I've GOT to start checking my e-mail over the weekend ;^)...

I believe that would have been your standard 1 7/8" ball utility=20
trailer (the engine would not have fit in the trunk ;^), although you=20
can fit the transfer case off of a 1989 F-250 in there).

Dave H

PS FTE content. I'm about to put a Quadrajet on my 1979 F-250 300=20
(actually 306) I6 today.

- --=20
_
_| ~~. David Henderson
\, _} DHenders

VT.Edu
\( Gig 'em Aggies! '93
Beat Missouri!!

Currently at:
Interdepartmental Genetics Program
2010 Litton Reaves Hall
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University
Blacksburg, VA 24061
(540)231-4773
(540)231-5014
DHenders

VT.Edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dasc.vt.edu/henderson/dhenderson.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 06:05:55 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Torque

Stall speed is the theoretical rpm at the rated torque of the converter that
the engine will reach at wide open throttle with the transmission output
shaft locked. Notice "rated torque of the converter" If you put a 1000 rpm
stall converter behind a motor with twice the torque that the converter was
rated at the converter will act as if it has a higher stall (don't know if
it will be 2000 rpm). You can use the rating for a general idea of the
"slippage" of the converter. In normal daily driving 3000 rpm stall
converter will have to rev higher before the car starts to move than say a
1000 rpm converter. By allowing the engine to rev higher before loading it
by moving the vehicle it allows the engine to be higher in its torque/power
curve which allows the vehicle to perform better IN A COMPETITION SETTING!
This may not be the way you want the vehicle to perform in daily street
driving. A looser (higher stall) converter could also lower your mileage
and cause more heat buildup in the transmission (requiring an aux cooler).

The correct answer depends on your application and there are others on the
list with performance experience who can chime in on this. Higher stall
speed is generally better for competetion -- drag racing, truck pulling etc.
Lower stall speed is generally better for the street-- the truck will start
to move almost immediately on applying throttle pressure.

I have a question for you offroaders. Would a higher stall be better for
rock crawling? It seems it would act like a "creeper gear" allowing the
engine to rev higher for more power but letting the truck creep along. (I
know, this assumes someone would use a slush box for this. I remember the
tranny wars of a week or two ago ;0) ).

Tom H

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeffery Hansen [mailto:billybobjoehansen

hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 5:37 AM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Torque

Just for the asking - if I get my wife calmed down from the demands of
selling this truck of mine - if and when I convert it from the NP435 to a
C-6, with the 69 429 and 33 inch tires, 4:11 detroit locked gears Ford 9
inch rear, posi trak Danna 44 up front - what stall converter would be best?
Summitt catalog goes into explaing what a torque convert is/does - but they
don't explain exactly what the definition of "stall speed" is. Friend is
saying he's gonna get me a C-6 out of a Bronco, but that it don't have a
torque converter.
Jeffery A. Hansen, HMC(SW/AW/FMF) USN
Independent Duty Hospital Corpsman
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:13:00 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs

After it died can you get fuel to the carb? This sounds like a clogged
pickup sock? If it's points the ignition is easy to check. Pull a plug or
grab a spare off the bench (I like easy :-)) and hook the coil wire to it,
pull the cap and rotate the cam to make and break the points with ignition
key in the on position while grounding the plug on the engine somewhere. If
the spark looks good it's probably not ignition since any spark will at
least fire the engine if there is fuel.

If this truck has the proverbial ford ignition harness plugs then that could
be the culprit. I've wasted many an hour trying to diagnose an engine only
to find one of these plugs was not getting a good contact.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> ok i have a 66
> 352, and the carb has been rebuilt there is fuel getting to
> it and the fuel
> is clean ok i checked the points and i reset them and it ren
> fine for a
> little bit then it just died and wont start again is it
> ignition it has new
> coil, points and condenser is it the vacum advance? im lost
> from here thanks
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 09:26:21 -0500
From: Larry Bouthiette
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 Temperature sensor location?

I just finished putting the 360 2V from a 76 F-150 into my 73 F250 4X4.
I
can't find the temperatrue sending unit. Can someone clue me in as to
it's location?

Thanks.

Oh yeah, I have an NP435 tranny (with 360 bellhousing) and the transfer
case from the 76 I won't be using. Asking $250.00 for the set. Anyone
interested? The truck ran fine, but the F-250 was in better shape. Email
me if interested at larryb

wn.net.
The parts are in MA.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:51:41 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - water temp high ?

> I haven't studied the 335 series but the 385 series MUST have the heater
> circuit working either via the heater core or via jumper tube between the
> water pump outlet and thermostat housing or manifold (can't remember for
> sure :-)) or the engine will over heat in a matter of only a minute or two
> and will litterally blow the radiator cap off, well......open the Relief
> valve anyway :-)
>
> The heater circuit is crucial to proper circulation in the block
> before the
> thermostat opens.
>

Uhm, why's that ? I don't understand here at all ... unless the thermostat
is installed backwards, shouldn't the block where the thermostat sits warm
up just like the rest of the metal its attached to ? (back to warming things
again) and therefore the thermostat should open normally ... or are you
saying that the heater core operates as the "bypass" on some of the other
motors (FE's and W's come to mind there) allowing coolant to circulate
slowly ... I would still think that the motor would indeed open the
thermostat unless it was installed backwards ...

And how are you gettign enough pressure to blow the rad. cap off with a
closed thermostat and a cold radiator ?

Hmmm...the questions are endless ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

> BTW, in this case, the radiator is still cold :-) Convection will
> eventually begin to heat coolant in the radiator via the bottom hose which
> is open to the block but it won't flow except for convection and
> the coolant
> in the heads boils since it is not being circulated.
>
> The problem you have "sounds" like a sender but if there are any signs of
> heat and you do not have the heater circuit shunted or properly connected
> this is a possibility.
>
> --
> Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
> --
>
> >
> > soon as I start
> > it, within 6-10 seconds, the temp gauge maxs out. Seems like
> > it is too fast
> > for the engine to get hot that fast, a short maybe ? >>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:58:50 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Torque

> Just for the asking - if I get my wife calmed down from the demands of
> selling this truck of mine - if and when I convert it from the NP435 to a
> C-6, with the 69 429 and 33 inch tires, 4:11 detroit locked gears Ford 9
> inch rear, posi trak Danna 44 up front - what stall converter
> would be best?
> Summitt catalog goes into explaing what a torque convert is/does
> - but they
> don't explain exactly what the definition of "stall speed" is.
>

Check out the B&M site ... www.bmracing.com I think ... anyway they have a
great explanation of stall speeds and when you need higher or lower ...

Generally (GENERALLY!) you won't need a higher stall converter unless your
motor's hopped up or you need the higher revs for starting a load towing ...
with the 4:11 gears, I wouldn't think this would be a big issue, but
depending on what size tire you run, it could be ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:02:36 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 360 Temperature sensor location?

> I just finished putting the 360 2V from a 76 F-150 into my 73 F250 4X4.
> I
> can't find the temperatrue sending unit. Can someone clue me in as to
> it's location?
>

Right up front ... I've got some pics, but don't have them online where you
guys can easily access them right now ... :( but if you want one, email me
off the list and I'll send you one ...

its just to the right of the dist in the water jacket behind the thermostat
housing... hope that helps...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:04:51 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - winter tire pressure?

> What is a good tire pressure to be running in the winter with 35" bfg At
> Ko's.
>

I usually run about 40psi on my truck tires without a load, 50 or 45 with
... somewhere in that range ... usually I measure it cold, but in the winter
I like to measure it warm (drive into town on the highway and check it
there) just so I don't get as much expansion after the measurement ...

Generally its a good idea to check tires warm pressure not cold as there can
be quite a bit of heating going on depending on driving style and road
conditions and a myriad of other things just to get all the clauses in here.
(and I even spell checked it)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 10:06:09 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Torque

It would depend a lot on the engine you have and it's power band. A 460
makes enough torque at stall to pull a properly geared 4 wheeler up a pretty
steep grade in low/low for sure but an I-6 or 302 might not. As someone
said, if you rate a converter for 200# at 1000k the vehicle "begins" to move
but if you push it against a solid object you can get quite a few more revs
out of it before it moves or breaks something etc. but you have to have a
good cooler to offset the heat produced. A manual needs no cooler and has
no lines to get caught and break etc. so works better in some situations
where you might want the convenience of an auto.

The way I look at it is with the Np 435 and Np 205 I have a 43:1 crawl ratio
with 3.5 gears but with a C-6 wide ratio I have easily as much at idle due
to converter slippage but it goes away very quickly as the power
requirements go up at low speeds depending on traction, load requirements
and speeds I need to go. On a tractive suface you can force lots of revs
for torque as needed with an auto but on ice the manual might ber more
controlable :-) An auto also keeps you tied to the wheels when the engine
spits and caughs where with a stick you can slip the clutch. This got me
stuck once because it would not allow me to clear the engine while
maitaining some torque on the wheels. (stupid Holleys anyway!) With a slush
box you can step on the gas and hold the brake to control your speed if the
engine will run smoothly under those conditions, with a manual you have to
play games with your heel to keep it moving, smoothly but may have more
options for crawling etc..

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have a question for you offroaders. Would a higher stall
> be better for
> rock crawling? It seems it would act like a "creeper gear"
> allowing the
> engine to rev higher for more power but letting the truck
> creep along. (I
> know, this assumes someone would use a slush box for this. I
> remember the
> tranny wars of a week or two ago ;0) ).
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:09:44 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs

> well i think i definatley got it narrowed down on the truck. ok
> i have a 66
> 352, and the carb has been rebuilt there is fuel getting to it
> and the fuel
> is clean ok i checked the points and i reset them and it ren fine for a
> little bit then it just died and wont start again

You say there is fuel getting to it, but is it under very high pressure, or
just kind of dribbling out ... also be sure you're not running really rich
and just flooding out ... when I first got my truck this would happen, if I
shut it off or killed it, it would be so rich it would flood if I even
thought about touching the gas on a restart ...

> is it ignition
> it has new
> coil, points and condenser is it the vacum advance?

Did it pop or anything before it died ? (backfire/clunk anything?) I'd
throw a timing light on there and check the timing chain too ... when mine
was loose, sometimes it would pull crap like that where it would start once
in a while and not other times ...

to check the timing chain, get a socket that will fit the crank shaft bolt
... pull the cap off so you can watch the rotor ... then turn the crank up
and down and see how far it turns before the rotor turns... so pull up til
it starts to turn the rotor ... then push down til it starts to turn the
rotor again ... it shouldn't be very much, but if its anywhere around 20deg
then the timing chain is likely quite worn ...

I replaced that on my truck in one evening, hit the key and it fired right
up .. a great feeling...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 10:10:45 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fluid coupler vs. Torque Converter

If it was electric the magnets would have to pull two steel plates together
(in which case there is friction and wear) to get the connection. All of
them I have seen worked this way but typically run dry. Can't really
picture one of these able to withstand enough torque to run a vehicle unless
it used multiple, interleaved plates.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Didn't someone in the 30's or 40's make some sort of
> "electric clutch" where
> there was an electro magnet in the flywheel and a metal disk

> there was no friction surfaces there was very little to wear out.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 08:54:12 -0600
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dim Taillight

>>I've got a 74 F-250 that I am having an intermittent tail light problem with.
The tail light on drivers side is so dim you can barely see it sometimes.
Other times it shines just as brightly as the passenger side tail light.

So far I have cleaned the contacts in the socket that holds the bulb,
replace the bulb several times, and cleaned off the grounding surface and
grounding terminal for the drivers side tail light with no results. The
truck was wired for a 9-pin, I think it is a nine pin, trail light before I
bought it. I have gone through those connections and cleaned them up and
used new scotch-lock connecters as well.

Anybody got any other suggestions?

Keith,

I haven't read all of the wekend mail yet, so I apologize if you already
have your light fixed. Most likely, the ground pin on the dim bulb socket is
in the process of either corroding or breaking. To check this, turn on your
four ways and your tail lights, then go to the back of the truck and look at
the bulb. If it flashes real weird, your ground is bad. The easiest fix is
to replace the socket. You can repair the socket by soldering a wire in
place of the broken metal strip up the side of the socket.

- -- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 10:05:02 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - timing light

> Since I went to all
> electronic ignition
> I just don't have to mess with the timing like I used to.

Probably not as much, but have you set it on the Lincoln to be sure you're
gettin the most bang for your buck (or so) of gas ? :) Took me a bit, but
finally got a couple degrees extra on Dad's 89 truck ... makes it run like
an 8 now at least..

> I remember the first timing light I
> used was a yellow tube thing that barely flashed when it was working good.
> You had to use it indoors or at night. The first xenon strobe I ever used
> was a prized possession indeed. Then I got the inductive pickup and now I
> hardly ever use it, thank goodness....
>

Just don't use an old non-inductive light on an elec. ign. system ...
doesn't usually go over too well ... (zap! okay who let the magic smoke
out?)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:05:42 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - timing light

Yeah, I typically static time my duraspark stuff so the light stays in the
drawer :-)

User, the timing light is a few years younger than the user :-) Paid $40
for it at JC Penney's back in the 70's. Been pretty good to me except for
that broken wire :-) Not as bright as I'd like though and every once in a
while it feeds me some juice I wasn't expecting since it's all metal :-( I
don't lean on the fender now when I use it :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> You use yours more often than I do. Since I went to all
> electronic ignition
> I just don't have to mess with the timing like I used to. I
> guess I did use
> it about last year sometime when I put the cam shaft in my
> son's MC.

> Age of
> the timing light or age of the user? I remember the first
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:11:17 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - torque convertor

This kind of "shaking" is probably more likely to be an igniton or other
engine problem. The shaking is due to uneven firing of the cylinders in
most cases. If an engine was put together balanced it will stay that way
until something pretty obvious falls off :-) The converter becoming loose
is really a stretch since they are secured with self locking nuts but it has
happened so we tossed it out there :-) Flex plates sometimes come loose too
if the builder didn't put it on correctly but these are both unlikely, just
"possible" causes :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I have a nasty shaking coming from the engine. It
> happens when it is neutral, in gear, or is raining
> anywhere in North America. One of the guys on the list
> said that it might be the torque convertor. I was just
> wondering about it.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 10:19:54 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 -

> >>> You
> > can't measure voltage without completing the circuit. (grin, grin)
> >
>
> False ... Voltage is potential, so you can have voltage without
> current, but
> not current without voltage (a battery has 12V when fully charged whether
> there's something hooked to it or not right ?)
>
> I didn't say the battery didn't have 12 volts. I said that you can not
> MEASURE voltage without completing the circuit. If you have a
> battery with a
> dead cell, it only puts out 10 volts. You can't tell until you
> complete the
> circuit and measure the flow.

My point was that the flow isn't what you're measuring ... "flow" is amps
... the current being passed for measuring voltage is so low that it can
almost be considered 0 for practical applications such as these .... ideally
(the not so real world) it would be 0 for measuring voltage, but because the
meter needs some, you get a little amperage too ...

anyway we're back to arguing things that are so pointless its not even worth
a whole freshman engineering class ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:20:39 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Entropy etc....

Yes, Viger was looking for that answer too :-)

BTW, I know how induction works, just thought the plug wire part went back
through the battery ground somehow. Mine uses the old fashioned paper clip
connection via the boot so didn't think induction had anything to do with
it? Obviously the spark voltage has to "trigger" something else in the
light which actually turns the light on and has to go to ground somewhere,
eh? On occasion is has gone to ground via my hand, leg, elbow...........

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> state of whatever you were measuring. When measuring car
> battery voltage,
> etc. these effects are all negligible, but in the overall
> entropy of the
> universe, this is the way it is.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:24:05 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - torque converters

I always picture Angel food cake pans...........being a carb adict has
nothing to do with it.....:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> >>It looks like 2 large bowls fastened
> together mouth to mouth.
>
> I always thought it looked like two Bundt cake pans.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:34:45 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 360 Temperature sensor location?

should be on top of the intake manifold in the front center near the
thermostat.

Tom H

- -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bouthiette [mailto:larryb

wn.net]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 6:26 AM
To: 61-79-list

ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 360 Temperature sensor location?

I just finished putting the 360 2V from a 76 F-150 into my 73 F250 4X4.
I
can't find the temperatrue sending unit. Can someone clue me in as to
it's location?

Thanks.

Oh yeah, I have an NP435 tranny (with 360 bellhousing) and the transfer
case from the 76 I won't be using. Asking $250.00 for the set. Anyone
interested? The truck ran fine, but the F-250 was in better shape. Email
me if interested at larryb

wn.net.
The parts are in MA.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:51:36 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - White room, rebuilding stuff.....

Had a mess in the barn so decided to kill two birds with one room. Added a
room next to the bathroom in the rear of the barn which is exactly 8' on the
outside with 2x8 joists so I can store engines and trannys and axles up on
top of it. 8' ceiling too (barn is 12' ceiling so have almost 4' up there)
and just short of 15' long (wide?) with a full length (width?) bench, 24"
deep and will have a shelf under it for storage too. Eventually I plan to
have a lathe and mill in there but right now my blaster and pedestal grinder
are in there. It will be easy to heat so I can get some trannys rebuilt
this winter hopefully instead of ruining what's left of my mind on the boob
toobe :-)

It will have insulation all the way around and R-19 on 3 sides with R-11 on
one side and sliding doors to give it a doorway measuring 64x86" so I can
get my engine hoist and engine stand in and out of there. I managed to get
all my kids' junk up there along with two axles, a couple of trannys, bell
housings and other parts but still have a huge pile of lincoln parts that I
have to put "somewhere". Still need more shelves.......and more
shelves............and......:-)

BTW, if anyone is thinking about building a work shop/storage
building.........calculate what you think you need, double it, then multiply
by something to the power of..........to get the actual size you need or do
as my wife suggests.......GET RID OF SOME OF YOUR JUNK!! :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:27:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:400M & C6 into my 67'

Doug,

I have a 400 and C6 in my '53. I would recommend
replacing the pistons in the 400 with flattops. With
the stock 400 heads you will get 9:1 CR. If you plan
to rebuild anyway, replacing the pistons will only add
a few hundred dollars to the bill.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

>Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:55:18 -0800 (PST)
>From: Douglas Trotter
>Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400M & C6 into my 67'
>I'm currently in the process of gathering the parts
>needed to replace my 300 c.i. 6cyl. and C4 with a
400M
>and C6. I've already purchased a used engine and
>transmission and now need to prepare for
>theinstallation.
>My research indicates that I will need to:
>1) Shorten the front shaft of my two piece
>driveshaft.
>2) Modify my transmission cross-member to
>accommodatethe C6.
>3) Replace the radiator with a V8 unit.
>Can anyone out there tell me how much to shorten the
>drive shaft, in what way will the cross-member have
to
>be modified and what year and model radiator will
>bestfit this application?
>Also, are there any other issues or modification
>thatI should be thinking of?
>You're response will be greatly appreciated.

=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:45:59 -0800
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re:400M & C6 into my 67'

BTW I got those pistons for $16.45 a piece (jobber price) + $11.50 shipping.
The best I could get them locally was $21 each. If anyone would like the
address email me off list: bbeyer

pacifier.com

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Lee
To:
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 9:27 AM
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re:400M & C6 into my 67'

> Doug,
>
> I have a 400 and C6 in my '53. I would recommend
> replacing the pistons in the 400 with flattops. With
> the stock 400 heads you will get 9:1 CR. If you plan
> to rebuild anyway, replacing the pistons will only add
> a few hundred dollars to the bill.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 11:56:49 PST
From: "James Stepke"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Fuel tank switch

I need help in locating a fuel tank switch that switces between the front
and rear tanks. I need the actual "valve" that goes back by the rear tank.
My local parts place says there are a million different ones, anyone know a
part number or a good place to find one?
Thanks
James
79 F150
91 Wrangler

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 12:01:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Entropy, Timing Lights:wq

Gary, Bill, And John have been babbling about timing lights:

> BTW, I know how induction works, just thought the plug wire part went back
> through the battery ground somehow. Mine uses the old fashioned paper clip
> connection via the boot so didn't think induction had anything to do with
> it? Obviously the spark voltage has to "trigger" something else in the
> light which actually turns the light on and has to go to ground somewhere,
> eh? On occasion is has gone to ground via my hand, leg, elbow...........

Three type of timing lights that I'm aware of . .

1) Gas discharge only: this kind had two wires, one to plug, one
to ground. Needed to be used in a very dark place due to low
intensity of light. The high voltage from the ignition fired
the tube, no other circutry is required. If you touched the
wrong thing here, you would get zapped, since the electrical
path through your body has a much lower resistance than a
dark (non-conducting) flash tube.

The next two versions of light include a self-contained high
voltage source. These type both require 12 volts and ground
battery clamps, in order for the internal circuits to develop
the high voltage to fire the tube. They differ in the way the
tube is triggered.

2) The earliest of these used a direct connection to the ignition
(plug) wire. The internal circuit developed enough voltage to
RUN the flash, but not enough to START (trigger) the flash.
The ignition voltage was simply routed to a plate on the outside of
the flash tube. When the plug fired, this additional voltage
present triggered the tube, which would then conduct until the
voltage source dropped below a certain level. The high voltage
would then be able to recharge, waiting for the next trigger.
There was no (measurable) current flow off the ignition into the
trigger since the circuit was only a metal plate on the outside
of a glass tube. But, if you could touch the circuit, you would
provide a nice path for current to flow through. The ground clamp
provided a reference for the circuits, but the is no return
path for the ignition voltage since there is no current that
requires a return path. On this type you could usually hear/feel
the high-voltage oscillator running when the trigger switch was
pulled. As transistors were further developed, the oscillator
frequencies were moved up to increase efficiency, you can't
hear them anymore.

3) Which leads us to the latest, or "Inductive" timing light.
The trigger is developed from a clip-on transformer. The clip
itself is a magnetic core, the one-turn 'primary' is the plug
wire, the 'secondary' has two wires running up to the timing
light. I doubt that very much voltage is developed here, but
I haven't dissected my inductive light as I did with my earlier
toys. This low trigger voltage would need to be further processed
in order to actually trigger the tube, I can think of SEVERAL ways
this could be done. It would be very difficult to get zapped from
these lights, unless the case was broken. You would need to get at
the internal high-voltage circuits to get a shock. All of the
external wires are low voltage circuits.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 15:11:41 -0500
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - timing lights and arguments

I, for one, am learning something :-) I know quite a bit about electricity
but never really studied how the timing light works and it didn't occur to
me that my light might be hard on some electronic ignitions since due to the
spark voltage going to ground at some point but then it does that via the
plug too right? My understanding is that the "Probe" type like mine should
not hurt them but pulling the wire off while running can hurt capacitive
discharge systems in some cases because it forces the ungrounded high
voltage to exit via some insulation in the device causing a place for a
short to happen etc.. The only caution I've ever heard was to be sure the
high tension wires are "always" grounded in some way?

The inductive type sounds like a good idea since the voltage does not
actually enter the light itself, only the wattage generated by the coil does
and you have the added benefit of doing a little diagnostic as well and it
should be safe to use on virtually any system :-)

I do agree though that some of these arguments get a little nit picky.
Since there are those who do not respond but do read the posts we should try
to keep it academic rather than argumentative for their benefit. When you
argue such points as these try to add enough detail to make it
understandable for them and perhaps there will be less misunderstanding and
fewer redundant, argumentative replies :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> anyway we're back to arguing things that are so pointless its
> not even worth
> a whole freshman engineering class ...
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 12:50:14 -0800 (PST)
From: canzus

seanet.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Torque

At 07:36 AM 8:11:99 -0600, Jeffery Hansen wrote:
>Just for the asking - if I get my wife calmed down from the demands of
>selling this truck of mine -

I have a problem with this, I want you to take a look around your
home, looking for things that SWMBO has collected, you'll know
the stuff when you see it, that "frilly you have no use for stuff".
Point this collection of crap out, ask her to get rid of it, if she refuses,
ask why you have to get rid of the truck.

As a SWMBO, I can see the stuff I collect Steve has no use for, but
HWWTBO doesn't ask me to get rid of it.

Heres my theory;

Women collect stuff thats nice to look at but has no usefull purpose.
Men collect stuff they can use.

Rockette (SWMBO)

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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 16:55:07 EST
From: TWL1911

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs

i don t think its a timming chain because when it died it just acted flooded
out and i all i have done to the carb was rebuilt it and it ran fine after
that but then it worked for a little whiel then it died then after about 2
weeks (i was very busy) i ame back started it and it ran but it wouldnt wrap
out like it used to it would pop and crakle trying to get up to rpms so im
not sure any ideas?????
Travis
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:03:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs

Travis wrote:
> i don t think its a timming chain because when it died it just acted flooded
> out and i all i have done to the carb was rebuilt it and it ran fine after
> that but then it worked for a little whiel then it died then after about 2
> weeks (i was very busy) i ame back started it and it ran but it wouldnt wrap
> out like it used to it would pop and crakle trying to get up to rpms so im
> not sure any ideas?????

Travis, check the chain, use Bill's directions.
"it would pop and crakle trying to get up to rpms" sounds like a bad
chain to me, or at least bad timing.
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 16:35:21 -0600
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 352 Probs

> that but then it worked for a little whiel then it died then
> after about 2
> weeks (i was very busy) i ame back started it and it ran but it
> wouldnt wrap
> out like it used to it would pop and crakle trying to get up to
> rpms so im
> not sure any ideas?????

Sounds like the mixture or timing is way off ... have you tuned the carb
since you rebuilt it ? Also be sure the choke is coming off all the way
when it warms up ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 5spd 4.6L
73ish 1/2ton 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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