From: owner-61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com (61-79-list-digest)
To: 61-79-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #408
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61-79-list-digest Sunday, November 7 1999 Volume 03 : Number 408



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Manifold Heat
Re: FTE 61-79 - Lord-going well HA!
FTE 61-79 - Re: T-18 and the 435
FTE 61-79 - Dim Taillight
Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 f100 - Tire Sizes
FTE 61-79 - 400M & C6 into my 67'
FTE 61-79 - 5.4 Towing? Forgidaboutit.
FTE 61-79 - High beam problems.
FTE 61-79 - 62 Ford Unibody
FTE 61-79 - valve cover gasket on my 360 v8
FTE 61-79 - water temp high ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - High beam problems.
FTE 61-79 - Another one saved from the reaper
FTE 61-79 - Re: Fluid coupler vs. Torque Converter
FTE 61-79 - Truck in junkyard
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck in junkyard
Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck in junkyard
Re: FTE 61-79 - water temp high ?
Re: FTE 61-79 - grille for 78-79

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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 03:35:42 -0800
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Manifold Heat

Your analysis of the vacuum operated flapper sound good. However my poor
old 390 does not have that system :0(. It has a thermal wax plug in the
snorkle that as it warms up will close the flapper. Once it is warm that's
it unless the incoming air is so cold that it cools of the wax plug enough
to open the flapper again. I've been thinking about converting over to a
newer style air cleaner to get the vacuum operated snorkle flap and see how
this affects driveability/mileage.

Tom H

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peters, Gary (G.R.) [mailto:gpeters3 visteon.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 8:20 AM
To: '61-79-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Manifold Heat


It will make more power at WOT but not at cruise or idle. Both of these
conditions require the most advance and also the leanest mixture which also
requires the best vaporization which is why the flapper in the inlet snout
is vacuum operated. When the vacuum drops at WOT the flapper closes off the
hot air and you get only cold air. The increased volume of the colder air
passing over the plenum floor also cools the metal of the plenum so the "hot
spot" has negligeable effect on the temp of the charge but the walls of the
manifold remain warm enough to prevent condensation so you get the best of
both when you need them :-)

If you run strictly cold everything you will notice a marked drop in economy
and sluggish cruise performance due to these issues. Unless you re-curve
the dizzy, both mechanical and vacuum advance, you will have to run timing
which is not the best and mixture which is not the best to get the
performance back where you want it at cruise and then the timing issue will
rear it's ugly head at lower speeds and affect driveability. Like I keep
saying, there is no free lunch but the OEM's have done a good job in
providing 3 balanced meals in most touring engines by using the above
strategies.

One place I've noticed this difference is in the light throttle, cruise,
small amounts of throttle change such as when passing traffic where they run
radar so you can only get a couple of MPH over the guy you're passing or
slowly building speed from lower rpms in high gear etc.. With hot air and
proper vacuum as well as OEM stock dizzy you have excellent throttle
response in this case but with totally cold intake and stock dizzy curves,
throttle response here is very sluggish and unpredictable. The neat thing
about this is that you can have your cake and eat it too because if you set
up the intake system correctly you will also be able to get good power at
WOT. Again, you can't mix racing application and street application in the
same engine but you can certainly gain enough WOT power to keep most of us
happy and have good economy at the same time :-)

BTW, I just got my hands on a 71 (GM) rochester carb. No choke on it but
the throttle lever is exactly what I need to fit a ford link and on the
right side too :-) Now all I need is a book and a new manifold :-) How
does $50 sound to you guys? (doesn't matter, I thought it was a pretty good
price :-)) I may be hollering at ya shortly Bill for some advice :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> So the devices in place to provide temperature
> elevation during warm up, have to go away when it's
> warm or it will hurt the performance of the engine. A
> warm engine needs cool dense air, and will make more
> power if the intake tract is kept cool.
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Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 04:40:59 -0800
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Lord-going well HA!

I have a hard time hearing small noises in my Poor old truck, I have put
over $6000. into the engine and drivetrain in the last year since i bought
it as what i thought would be a fun project, My NP 205 transfer case sounds
like a gravel truck with about 1/8 " of slop in both the output shafts just
imagine what it would sound like inside the cab. The front diff and transfer
case are the last things to repair. unfortunatly iv'e had to slow my
spending with my wife thinking i love my truck more than her.

I was able to get a good set of gears for $95.00 (Can) and will be fixing
the problem this weekend, it would have been sooner but i was distracted by
putting power steering in. :)

"Gary L. Perry" wrote:

> Didn't you notice some NOISE sometime in your trucks life?
> How you could drive it everyday w/out realizing something
> wasn't right is beyond me. 4x4 much?
> "G"
>
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 05:58:18 -0800
From: "Shirley"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: T-18 and the 435

Just wanted to thank those who replied! From all the info, I must have the
NP 435 as it has the aluminum top plate and looks like the scan at
StockMan's web site. Again, Thanks for all the replies.

Scott Bradley
1966 F-100 Shortbox 351C NP 435

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Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 09:00:32 -0800
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Dim Taillight

If you don't have a voltmeter, try connecting a wire directly to the
battery and bypass everything and go directly to the taillight bezel.
Disconnect the existing harness from it. Connect the bypass wire to it.
If it works OK, start going up the harness until you isolate the problem.
A dim light usually indicated a short or a broken or thin wire that is
sharing the current with something else. In the case of a thin or frayed
wire, the resistance is too high. Did you try inspecting the harness all
the way up to the source?

Tim/66F100
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 09:24:03 -0500
From: "David J. Turner"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 78 f100 - Tire Sizes

Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 00:35:48 -0600
Regarding the site below:

215 75R 15. See this web site for sizes:

This is good info:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hartcom.net/~ron/tires.html

I have had the same question about 7.75 x 15, which was original spec.
for the 66 F1.
Where can I find equivalent current size for this tire?
msaur wrote:

> Could anyone tell me what a G78r 15 would be in the new sizes? Like is it
a
> P235 75 15 or P215 75 15? or what.
> msaur odyssey.on.ca
>

Dave T
66 Shortbed Auto - Stock




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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:55:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Douglas Trotter
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 400M & C6 into my 67'

I'm currently in the process of gathering the parts
needed to replace my 300 c.i. 6cyl. and C4 with a 400M
and C6. I've already purchased a used engine and
transmission and now need to prepare for the
installation.

My research indicates that I will need to:
1) Shorten the front shaft of my two piece drive
shaft.
2) Modify my transmission cross-member to accommodate
the C6.
3) Replace the radiator with a V8 unit.

Can anyone out there tell me how much to shorten the
drive shaft, in what way will the cross-member have to
be modified and what year and model radiator will best
fit this application?

Also, are there any other issues or modification that
I should be thinking of?

You're response will be greatly appreciated.



=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 13:12:36 -0500
From: frenz.6 osu.edu (Dale Frenz)
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 5.4 Towing? Forgidaboutit.

>it could be a small lucrative trucking business. I have not figured out >#'=
s
>that will be required on an hourly basis, but I'm sure a Diesel or >V-10 or
>maybe a 5.4 gas would haul it.

Attention, attention, Now hear this.... If you knowingly intend to
pull a trailer of any size, dont buy a 5.4. Why do that to yourself, when
you can at the very least upgrade to a V-10 for an additional $700? That'd
be worth every penny, especially when you'd otherwise be weezin' up some
hill with your 5.4. If I *knew* I had a trailer to tow, I wouldnt even
think about anything less than a Powerstroke. Hell I dont have a trailer to
tow and I still spent the extra $3600 for a diesel.
If you wanna haul groceries, get a 5.4. If you wanna haul some
serious trailer-towing butt, get an engine made for it.

- -Dale

p.s. Of course, Dave did haul a motor to Ohio and back with his wife's car
towing a little trailer. I think I heard the faint roar of a Powerstroke in
it when he drove off. Was that a Gooseneck=81 brand trailer Dave? =3D)


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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 15:31:24 -0500
From: "msaur"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - High beam problems.

I have a 78 f100 and I have been having problems with the high beams, when
I put them on they are ok for 5 or 10 min. and then all the lights go out!
When I flip back to lows they come back on! I have already changed the floor
dimmer but it didn't help. Is there a head light relay somewhere in the
truck , or is it the switch it self? Any ideas?
msaur odyssey.on.ca

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Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 22:58:16 -0800
From: Jack Wolf
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 62 Ford Unibody

Howdy Eric 'Stitch'
>
>Thank's for the yblock info I appreciate the imput. I especially appreciate
>the pro yblock view. As you may know our younger counter parts are usually
>undecided when it comes to dads advise. However Brian came to me last night
>and I quote!
>
>"Hey Dad I looked at that internet 61-79-list ford-trucks.com thing you
>subscribed to. This guy wrote back and said the yblock engines are awesome
>and the parts are not real hard to find"
>
>Thank's Stitch, once again It looks owe you!
>
>jack
>

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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 17:43:06 -0600
From: "Daniel R. Olinick"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - valve cover gasket on my 360 v8

I have a 71 Ford f100 with (probably) a 360...

I plan to attempt to replace the valve cover gasket on the
driver's side. It is leaking pretty bad. I don't think the other
one is leaking. It had already been replaced before I bought
the truck. I just wanted someone to exlplain how to do it because
I don't want to install it wrong. I know I need to scrape off the old
gasket and clean the surfaces but do I need to prepare them
with some kind of stuff before putting it back together. I want to
start fixing some things myself but have no experience.

Anyway I am trying to figure out what kinds of oil leaks I have.
After fixing the gasket I plan on washing the engine and transmission
as best I can so I can see where any new oil is leaking from.

I am on my third tank of stp gas treatment. I heard it recommended on
this list to help clean the valves and or carburator.

Do you use premium gasoline in your trucks? I thought the cheaper
87 octane would be just fine. What would the advantages be of running
the 93 octane in my truck? I have a habit of always using the same gas
from the same company(Chevron) in my 93 GMC 350 v8 and the same
oil. Since I live in South Texas(San Antonio) do you reccomend a straight
30 weight oil like Penzoil sae 30? I don't know what the previous owner
did
so I don't know what my trucks favorite gas and oil are. :(

Thanks,

Daniel Olinick (dolinick earthlink.net)
93 GMC Sierra 350 v8 5spd
87 Olds Cutlass Supreme (no reverse automatic)
71 Ford F100 360 v8 3spd

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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 19:09:34 -0500
From: "don"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - water temp high ?

Just rebuilt a 400M engine. Starts and runs great, BUT, as soon as I start
it, within 6-10 seconds, the temp gauge maxs out. Seems like it is too fast
for the engine to get hot that fast, a short maybe ?

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Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 19:33:14 -0600
From: Craig Cantrell
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - High beam problems.

There should be an auto reset CB built into the headlight switch itself. Also
suspect is the wiring going to the floor dimmer switch. May have suffered some
heat damage.

msaur wrote:

> I have a 78 f100 and I have been having problems with the high beams, when
> I put them on they are ok for 5 or 10 min. and then all the lights go out!
> When I flip back to lows they come back on! I have already changed the floor
> dimmer but it didn't help. Is there a head light relay somewhere in the
> truck , or is it the switch it self? Any ideas?
> msaur odyssey.on.ca
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

- --
Craig
- --
1997 Cobra Convertible--#2149
"Naw Jaw"--Pacific Green/Saddle/Saddle
President, South Central Kansas Mustang Club
See us at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.kscable.com/sckmc


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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 21:39:32 -0000
From: "Hedges"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Another one saved from the reaper

On a recent trip to the local "treasure" yard, I stumbled upon a new
addition, a 77 F150 Ranger XLT, 400 ci, auto, ps, pb, ac, factory duel
tanks, most of the factory cruise. Sticker on the valve cover indicates the
400 met 76 emissions. (Story is it was replaced with one out of a car) Only
parts missing so far were the ps pump and the mirrors. Seems the yard just
switched to its third owner, this was the first owner's truck. (New one
didn't want it and was ready to sell whole or part it out) The story was the
engine was only so so, and the trans leaked too bad to drive. Truck had not
seen a road since 83 (at least from its license plate) and had been stored
in a shed for 10+ years. (Can you say No rust through). Last time it was
titled was 84, showing 50,6xx for an odometer reading, current reading
51,6xx. Was a little rough around the edges, but too good for me to see it
parted out. After I parted with $ 250 it became my newest addition. (Am I
lucky or what?) Figured if nothing else there were alot of good parts for my
77 3/4 ton (switch to 1/2 ton, auto, ac, XLT trim).

Good news is that after only replacing the fuel pump and cleaning the gas
tank it lives! Starts easy, sounds good, only a little black/grey smoke when
revved. Road test shows trans to shift good, only small spot is left on the
ground when parked (and yes its full of fluid). Soon to hit the road. Too
good to be true? I know there will be alot of little things that will go
wrong shortly after it sat for so long but hey, that's the fun of it, right?

On to my question. Need to replace the heater core. I know in this truck
with AC that it's not a fun job. Done it once quite a while back to a 79
4WD, but my memory is foggy. Any words of wisdom before I undertake this
task. Any tricks that will make it easier?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Brian
77 F150 Ranger XLT (think I'll call her lucky)
77 F250 Custom, 351M, 4 spd
94 Explorer, Eddie Bauer
91 Ranger, 260,000 miles
60 F100

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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 20:33:03 -0600
From: Brett L Habben
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Fluid coupler vs. Torque Converter

Trivia:
The first auto trans only had "Fluid Couplers" (like the old
Hydromatics). When they added the "Stator" between the drive and driven
turbines, it became a "Torque Converter". The stator's purpose is
redirect the fluid flow angle against the driven turbine at take off,
having a torque multiplying effect. This is what makes auto trannies
great for starting a heavy pull. Truly interesting reading is the
"Triple Turbine" tranny section of my '59 Buick repair manual.
Everything you would ever want to know about turbines.
Brett
Super75cab
>All transmissions "Are" torque converters (or amplifiers?) :-) Actually
>only automatics have what are "commonly" called torque converters. They
are
>more accurately called "Fluid Couplers" because they use ATF to connect
the
>engine to the transmission via vanes or turbins. Manual transmissions
use
>mechanical clutches in most cases (for you guys waiting for me to make a
>mistake, I know all about the Auto stick VW :-)) which are operated by
the
>driver for changing gears etc..
>Why they are called "converters" isn't exactly clear to me since they
don't
>really convert anything. If anything they "Amplify" torque under load
and
>at low speeds but since it's still torque and it's still rotary motion I
>don't see the conversion? :-)
>Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167


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Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 00:36:24 EST
From: Fordsforever aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Truck in junkyard

Hey guys I am new to the FTE lists so I hope you will forgive me if my
questions seem basic to you. I have been looking for a late 70's F150 for
awile and today I found one I like. It is a '78 F150 long bed 4X4. It has a
dead 351M with auto tranny and is missing the steering column. My questions;
what tranny bolt pattern does the 351M have? I have a rebuilt 351W in my
garage, I want to drop it in and I need to know if the 351M has the same
Windsor bolt pattern. Second, are 4wd and 2wd drive steering columns the
same? Would a tilt column work w/o modifications?
Thanks in advance and I look forward to reading and contributing to the list.
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Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 00:50:12 EST
From: ETRMK aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck in junkyard



351M has Fords big block bolt pattern which includes: 400,429,and 460.
351W has the smallblock pattern.

Eric Norris
78 F-250 4x4 C6 400 (460 after the white stuff is gone :-)
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Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 01:13:24 EST
From: SHill48337 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Truck in junkyard

In a message dated 11/6/1999 9:40:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Fordsforever aol.com writes:


garage, I want to drop it in and I need to know if the 351M has the same
Windsor bolt pattern. >>

Unfortunately, the 351M pattern will only fit the 400M, 429, and 460. But,
while you are wheeling and dealing with the wrecking yard make a deal such
that when you pull the engine and transmission you can come back and trade
the transmission for one that will fit your 351W at no charge. Most yards
would say yes to something like that, have them write it on your receipt. I
have no idea about your question on the streering column. Good Luck.
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 01:30:02 EST
From: GMontgo930 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - water temp high ?

In a message dated 11/06/1999 8:14:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
donb midtnn.net writes:


it, within 6-10 seconds, the temp gauge maxs out. Seems like it is too fast
for the engine to get hot that fast, a short maybe ? >>

Try the sending unit first! IT happened to me after a timing gear change. You
can also verify the temp with a thermometer down the radiator cap. Ive got an....


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