61-79-list-digest V3 #394

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61-79-list-digest Friday, October 29 1999 Volume 03 : Number 394

=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - winter a-comin
RE: FTE 61-79 - no fuel, interesting variation
FTE 61-79 - dual vacuum distributor (was F-600)
FTE 61-79 - rear wheel bearings
FTE 61-79 - launch time
FTE 61-79 - unleaded decals
RE: FTE 61-79 - dual vacuum distributor (was F-600)
Re: FTE 61-79 - dual vacuum distributor (was F-600)
RE: FTE 61-79 - unleaded decals
Re: FTE 61-79 - unleaded decals
FTE 61-79 - OD on Linc rear
FTE 61-79 - starter Solenoids
FTE 61-79 - Poised and ready
Re: FTE 61-79 - Poised and ready
FTE 61-79 -Can anyone decode this ???
FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers
FTE 61-79 - Driving Lights and terms
FTE 61-79 - 390GT flywheel
FTE 61-79 - cross over/smog/56 coe
Re: FTE 61-79 - Driving Lights and terms
Re: FTE 61-79 - OD on Linc rear
Re: FTE 61-79 - starter Solenoids
Re: FTE 61-79 - Driving Lights and innovative thinking
Re: FTE 61-79 - Lincoln parts swap
Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage
FTE 61-79 - Rear Wheel Bearings
Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers
Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Winter a-comin'
FTE 61-79 - 289 rebuild
Re:FTE 61-79 - Mileage and Vacuum
Re: FTE 61-79 - unleaded decals
Re: FTE 61-79 - OD on Linc rear
FTE 61-79 - Re: Twin -I-Beam alignment
FTE 61-79 - Re: Quadrajet on Offy 300 intake
FTE 61-79 - Headers
RE: FTE 61-79 - Body stuff, running Beast, high idle, w/s washer.
Re: FTE 61-79 - Grills and other matters( typos corrected)
FTE 61-79 - rear wheel bearings R&R
FTE 61-79 - Stinking cars

=======================================================================

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:45:35 PDT
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - winter a-comin

I just moved to Wisconsin and people have suggested using big bags of kitty
litter as weight -- it is also good for putting under tires to get unstuck.
And of course it's great for absorbing oil stains if you want to use it in
the future (assuming you have fewer than 20 cats). Personally, I also plan
to move my chest toolbox from in back of the cab to the back of the truck to
add one or two hundred pounds (depending on what you put in it) to the rear
axle. Might look kinda hojo, though ...

Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher
70 F100 w 300-I6

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 15:01:59 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - no fuel, interesting variation

> Hi, folks, I just bought a '75 F-150, 390 and what I believe is
> a C6 and it's a pretty nice truck, but I have fuel delivery
> problems that perhaps some of you have had and can share
> accumulated wisdom on?
>

Sounds like a great truck so far :) Might want to verify the 390 status as
opposed to the 360 ...

Duraspark on that bad boy, or is it still a points truck ?

> tank switch and it starts running right again, but when running
> on aux. tank it runs great for about 1-2 minutes and then
> starves out *completely*... flip it back to main and it runs
> okay until the next time it cuts out...
>

I've not really played with the dual tank trucks (my sis and dad both have
em, but not me) so I don't know how valid this is, but I almost wonder if
your valve isn't causing problems ... either leaking a little from either
side (hence you get a vacuum leak and suck air instead of fuel), or possibly
not really locking to one side and drifting a bit ...

I know how theirs work vaguely, but not sure on yours ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:20:12 PDT
From: "gene gardner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - dual vacuum distributor (was F-600)

Since there was a thread about dual vac lines and a governor on a F600, I'd
like to ask again (got no response the first time) about the anti-backfire
module on my 300 I6. The 2nd vac line from the distributor runs to this and
my last mechanic disconnected it during a tuneup saying he didn't see any
need for it. The engine runs great (and no backfire during deceleration) but
I'd like to ask Wish or Gary for a clarification: should I reconnect it? I
didn't follow the ported/unported explanation (sorry, I'm not too
mechanical)_but I really don't like seeing unplugged inlets on both the
dizzy and carb since he removed the rubber hose. BTW the main vac line runs
from the dizzy to the base of the carb (Carter 1-barrel). Should I leave
well enough alone? Thanks.

Gene Gardner, Texican Teacher
70 F100 w 300 I6

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 15:28:16 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rear wheel bearings

>>My 66 F100 is making an awful clunking sound that sounds like its coming from
the
rear. Sound exactly follows road spead and as best I can figure using my
Chilton's
manual it appears that I have a bad rear wheel bearing. I am going to make
a
virgin attempt to replace both sides and welcome all tips tricks and
suggestions. It
appears that there are tools available (and probably necessary) for removing
the
axle and bearings, and I am going to try and rent these. Any thing else I
should
get? What about lubrication / cleaning fluids?

Bryan,

Don't buy parts until you have checked the u-joints in the drive shaft. :-)
Rear wheel bearings go whump whump, whump, etc. The u-joints are more tinny
and are louder as you pass close to a building are curb. How's that for a
technical description?

- -- John
jlagrone

ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 15:48:25 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - dual vacuum distributor (was F-600)

> Since there was a thread about dual vac lines and a governor on
> a F600, I'd
> like to ask again (got no response the first time) about the
> anti-backfire
> module on my 300 I6.

Sorry must've missed the question in all the confusion ... lets have a whack
at it...

The 2nd vac line from the distributor runs
> to this and
> my last mechanic disconnected it during a tuneup saying he
> didn't see any
> need for it. The engine runs great (and no backfire during
> deceleration) but
> I'd like to ask Wish or Gary for a clarification: should I
> reconnect it?

Okay so there is a line from the base of the carb to the vaccuum advance on
the dist, then another from the backside of the advance to the little
dashpot thingy on the carb ?

If this is truely the routing its supposed to have (this can get confusing,
its mostly for my own logic and to annoy Gary enough to correct me if he
thinks it works differently :) , I'd guess that somehow its rigged so when
you let off, the advance in the dist does its thing, the vaccuum diaphram
pulls, and by plumbing to the back side of it you'd get a momentary vaccuum
which would pull the dashpot and prevent the thing from closing all the way
and stalling ... more of an anti-kill device for between gears or quick
accel/decel actions ...

If this is truely what it does, then I would see no problem with leaving it
unhooked or hooking it up, it should only come into play on extreme dynamic
situations which may cause the truck to die, or sputter, or otherwise act
funny, for normal driving, I don't think you'd notice it either way ... so
its totally up to you ... you say you don't like seeing things unhooked,
hook it back up and pay attention for any changes ... like I said, I doubt
you'd notice any...

> didn't follow the ported/unported explanation (sorry, I'm not too
> mechanical)

That's fine ... as long as its working normally, there shouldn't be any real
issues with using one or the other ... if you are having problems with
off-idle hesitations or something though, you might consider switching the
source ... we may be able to help you out if it comes to that too ...

> vac line runs
> from the dizzy to the base of the carb (Carter 1-barrel). Should I leave
> well enough alone? Thanks.

I dunno, if it works, I wouldn't mess with it ... but then its not my truck
either, on my own truck, I jsut can't seem to keep my fingers out of it :)

This weekend is looking like a round of installing a tonneau cover (actually
re-installing) a long with front and rear sway bars ... who knows maybe some
tuning and a little stereo wiring ... jsut about all ready for winter then
:)

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:11:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - dual vacuum distributor (was F-600)

Wish replied to Gene:
> > Since there was a thread about dual vac lines and a governor on
> > a F600, I'd
> > like to ask again (got no response the first time) about the
> > anti-backfire
> > module on my 300 I6.
>
> Sorry must've missed the question in all the confusion ... lets have a whack
> at it...
>
> The 2nd vac line from the distributor runs
> > to this and
> > my last mechanic disconnected it during a tuneup saying he
> > didn't see any
> > need for it. The engine runs great (and no backfire during
> > deceleration) but
> > I'd like to ask Wish or Gary for a clarification: should I
> > reconnect it?
>
> Okay so there is a line from the base of the carb to the vaccuum advance on
> the dist, then another from the backside of the advance to the little
> dashpot thingy on the carb ?
>
[remainder snipped]
Gene, is this really a thingy (isn't it a thingie? :-) on the carb,
or do you have an air (smog) pump?
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 16:19:10 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - unleaded decals

> So, Ken, what are you trying to say here? Was it the exhaust or
> the drivers?
> How many Ford trucks were pulling cattle trailers?
>
> Certain metropolitan areas in TX do have smog testing and vapor
> recovery on
> the gas pumps. I avoid them as much as possible. BTW, Henry is
> fully smogged
> and his exhaust does have a distinct odor. I wonder where the wife's cat
> is.......
>

Hopefully under her car ... oh wait ... THAT cat ...

:)

Come on, all you guys are makin me feel bad for pullin the cats off my car
too now
:( But I have talked with quite a few people who have passed the sniffer
with no cats in place only to fail the visual ... you gotta wonder what
these "regulations" are really for ... heck there was even a case of a
couple guys who restored a 49 Ford to stock specs ... fresh motor, new
points and good tune ... passed the CA emissions with flying colors ...
didn't even need a cat as it was pre-cat built ...

They admitted it was essentially a "new" 49, but I think it proves that
those of us who are always tinkering are probably running some of the
cleaner cars whether we want to be or not ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:39:52 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - unleaded decals

I think I've mentioned in the past that even my lowly, much disparaged, 130K
mile 400 passes the sniffer with no cats (removed by PO). I don't have any
idea what the new engine is going to do but since I have to get it smogged
next month and it's good for 2 years I'll have some time to figure it out
after I drop the new motor in.

"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: William S. Hart
To:
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 2:19 PM
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - unleaded decals

>
> Hopefully under her car ... oh wait ... THAT cat ...
>
> :)
>
> Come on, all you guys are makin me feel bad for pullin the cats off my car
> too now
> :( But I have talked with quite a few people who have passed the sniffer
> with no cats in place only to fail the visual ... you gotta wonder what
> these "regulations" are really for ... heck there was even a case of a
> couple guys who restored a 49 Ford to stock specs ... fresh motor, new
> points and good tune ... passed the CA emissions with flying colors ...
> didn't even need a cat as it was pre-cat built ...
>
> They admitted it was essentially a "new" 49, but I think it proves that
> those of us who are always tinkering are probably running some of the
> cleaner cars whether we want to be or not ...

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:50:32 -0400
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - OD on Linc rear

Deacon writes: >>After putting the Lincoln up on jack stands and getting a look
at
the underside I found what looks like a gearbox mounted to the front of
the differential and looks to be operated by an electric solenoid .
There's 2 wires that have been cut and there's no switch for it that I
can find. There's no mention of it in the manual so I'm guessing it's an
overdrive. Anyone seen one of these before? Are the wires just + and -?
With it up on jack stands it's a good time to see if it works.

Sounds much like a "Columbia" 2 speed rear of long ago.

Never seen one of these!!! If it is in fact an OD unit on a 9" FOMOCO rear I'm
more than a little interested. Keep us posted....
Where on the FOMOCO vehicles of this era is the "antilock brake device" that
keeps up with the rotation of the rear and signals the brake computer??? My
M*PARs have it on the rearend, but near the top in front up hi on the housing.
Kinda like a speedo cable entering the tranny, but is 2 electrical wires
connected to some kind of plunger apparatus that supposedly "counts" the
revolutions of the starter ring like device on the ring gear case..

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 18:11:57 -0400
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - starter Solenoids

Someone wrote: >>>My friend, Levi, says he uses Ford starter solenoids...Will
that work the
>same way?,,

Steve replied: >> Yup...They have a 250 Amp rating..

I've personally tried these FOMOCO starter relays(or solenoids or whatever - the
thing that sits on the passenger side fender), and have found that they won't
last if held "on" for really long periods of time. They always open, and I
assumed that they were not made to be held "on" for very long intervals,
because, after all, starters will burn up if held on for long periods. Don't
like knocking anything on our Ford trucks, but in this case I've not had good
luck. The older M*opars that had a relay on the cowl on drivers side that
supplied all the essential electricals with 12V, have been much better to me.
They always are energized when the ignition is on, so are made for continuous
operation. Don't have a clue as to the Amperage rating (is it OK to use a HOJO
term here), but I've had much success with these.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 18:25:58 -0400
From: am14

daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Poised and ready

John LaG. writes: >>No one has a clue unless you live next to an Army base. We
have people from
every state and most territories and they have spouses from every country
imaginable. It makes for quite a community. Just because the light is green
does not mean it is safe to enter the intersection and if you aren't moving,
you're a sitting duck. This is the big reason I have reworked Henry's
lights. I want people to see what they are about to run into. I used to go
weeks without a near miss. Now I'm lucky to go two hours. Bright lights and
air horns, a hogleg under the seat......you never know.

San Antonio , El Paso, or Kileen???? My guesses. The town I work in is
somewhat similar, but probably many less than your area, especially if it is San
Antonio. 3 Air Bases and 1 Army, I believe..anyway lots and lots of military.

Azie
Ardmore, Al

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:47:28 -0500
From: Larry Schmiedekamp
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Poised and ready

Sorry Azie

San Antonio loss some bases in the last govt. cut.
San Angelo & abilene still have Air Bases.

FTE topic.. My 74 f350 has a starting problem. Was driving it daily and
pulled up to the house, killed it. Came back out to start it. Just got one
clunk sound at the starter. No clicking and no more clunk when turning the key
to start again. Tried jumping it. Didn't pull the alt. on the jumping truck
down like a low battery. But nothing when turning the key. Did notice the
pos. side jumper cable was warm. Hit the cables together and seem to have
plenty spark coming off the f350 battery. New battery cables and extra grounds
on it. What the hey?????

Larry

At 06:25 PM 10/28/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>John LaG. writes: >>No one has a clue unless you live next to an Army
base. We
>have people from
>every state and most territories and they have spouses from every country
>imaginable. It makes for quite a community. Just because the light is green
>does not mean it is safe to enter the intersection and if you aren't moving,
>you're a sitting duck. This is the big reason I have reworked Henry's
>lights. I want people to see what they are about to run into. I used to go
>weeks without a near miss. Now I'm lucky to go two hours. Bright lights and
>air horns, a hogleg under the seat......you never know.
>
>San Antonio , El Paso, or Kileen???? My guesses. The town I work in is
>somewhat similar, but probably many less than your area, especially if it
is San
>Antonio. 3 Air Bases and 1 Army, I believe..anyway lots and lots of
military.
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al
>
>
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>
>

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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 00:54:32 +0100
From: "Bill Brox"
Subject: FTE 61-79 -Can anyone decode this ???

Hi all.

Can anyone decode this:

F-600

Warranty number F60BE542309

WB = 174
Color = L
Model F602
Body = 181
Trans = F
Axle = F7
Max G.V.W = 20000 lbs

Then those figures is also found.
132
3600
DSO = 93

Hope anyone can decode this.

Thanks in advance, Bill Brox

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 19:14:34 -0400
From: "David J. Turner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers

Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 16:45:46 EDT
From: TBeeee

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers

In a message dated 10/27/99 4:35:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
DAVEBOY

esn.net
writes:

> Okay boys, here's how she came out of the truck: The driver's side
> arm has #508 stamped on it. It also has a small 89339-60 stamped on
> it, for what that's worth.) The passenger side arm has #440 stamped
> on it, (again with a small number 89339-11 stamped on it. Also for what
> it's worth the #440 is brighter metal that the other, which may indicate
> someone in the past has replace it. (It looks newer?)
>
Dave:

Measure the arms to see what the lengths are. I'm not sure if the spec
is overall length or center to center between the pivot holes. According to
the book, there is only a 1/4" difference between them. Let us know what
you
find.

did. They are probably only available NOS now.

Stock Man

Measurements as requested: The #508 is 12 1/4 overall and the #440 is
12 1/2 overall

Dave Turner
66 F1 (hope it doesn't rain)

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 16:22:52 -0700
From: Brett Withers
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Driving Lights and terms

I've been following this thread for several days and man you guys are making
a mountain out of a mole hill. I too have burned up my fair share of
switches. The kind people out there in the aftermarket arena have solved
this problem for us. Go to Pep Boys or any other autostore, and look in the
electrical aisle. They sell a complete heavy duty wiring harness just for
aux. lights. It has a 30 amp relay, 20 amp fuse and 2-10 gauge wires
encased in a heat and gasoline resistant sheath. I recommend this and know
that it works because I have two pair of 150 watt daylighters (one pair per
harness) on my 78 and have had no switch problems for over two years.

- --

- ------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 06:47:27 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: Driving Lights and terms

Thanks for your message at 01:06 AM 10/28/99 -0400, George W. Selby, III.
Your message was:
>As to the switch burning out problem, Get used to it if you are running the

>entire current the illumination devices throught the switch. The
>appropriate way to do it is to use a switch to turn on and off a relay. If

>you hook up a lead from the parking lamps to the 12+ terminal for the
>switch side of the relay, and use the switch to switch the connection to
>ground, you now have fog/driving lamps that turn off and on with your
>parking lights. Then run a big (10 guage) wire from the battery to a
>fuse/circuit breaker to the relay and from the relay to the lights. Get a
>30 amp relay at least, and not a cheap one from Wal-Mart or the discount
>parts houses.

My friend, Levi, says he uses Ford starter solenoids...Will that work the
same way?

Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:00:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: rich may
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 390GT flywheel

I was wondering if anyone knows of a fylwheel for a
390GT that is for sale. Would the flywheel be
different for a GT motor? Also, it has to be an auto
flywheel. I am willing to trade a manual one for it or
sell it. The motor is out of a 68' Stang.

=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:32:38 -0700
From: "J.S.H"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - cross over/smog/56 coe

>>I know the cross over is for intake heat, what is the passage
in the head? Is it like a water jacket around the exhaust port ?

> I do know
>that spent exhaust gasses flow thru these passages, so it has to be >open to some
>exhaust someplace, therefore not relative to waterjacket style of >surrounding...

>Does this make sense??????

Yes,There is too much carbon in the cross over for just hot air.It must
be exhaust gas.I think I'll pull the head and shake the washer out of
it....While I have head off I might as well take my new sandblaster to
the exhaust manifold.Can't have one nice manifold tho..have to pull the
other side and blast it too.
Might have it back together by spring.

> >i was also told the inspectors always look to see if the
> >gauge has "unleaded fuel"
> >if it doesn't it isn't required, if that is true, what keeps us from
> >installing early model instrument panels?
>
> How a bout popping the clear cover off the gauge cluster and getting a
> little flat black paint and .......

>Most of these guys actually use the VIN to determine what it's supposed >to have so you can change out anything you like and they will just make >you put it back on.

We swapped a 6.9 diesel for a 460 in my dads 8 f-350.
Peeled the Diesel stickers off the gas doors,painted over "diesel fuel
only "on insterment cluster and on the F-350 emblems.
He has been getting it smogged every year for at least five years with
no problem.
It works on that truck in this state (Nevada),beyond that you are on
your own tho......

>First, yes the HD359 is listed in parts books, even tho I never
>heard of it before either.
Always learn something new on this list.

>Does anyone know if all the front parts from a p-up FE engine
will bolt on to my HD eng

The thermo housing from a 390 has a 1 3/4 thermo hole and the bolts are
3 1/2 apart with a 1 3/4 inlet hose.
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:41:44 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Driving Lights and terms

Thanks for your message at 02:01 PM 10/28/99 -0500, John LaGrone. Your
message was:
>>>Condensor: is on a Air Conditioning system. This is merely a capacitor, I
>don't know who started calling it a condensor for automotive applications.
>
>Condensor is an archaic term for a capacitor. It was coined when electrical
>research was in its infancy. It likened the capacitor's function to that of
>the cooling coil (condensor) in a distillery, colloquially known as a still.
>Air conditioning technology as we know it came long after either of the
>aforementioned technologies.

I'll quit calling it a condenser when they quit printing it on the boxes
they come in. Or maybe when the parts guys start calling them capacitors.
Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:51:19 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - OD on Linc rear

Thanks for your message at 05:50 PM 10/28/99 -0400,
am14

daimlerchrysler.com. Your message was:
>
>
>Deacon writes: >>After putting the Lincoln up on jack stands and getting
a look
>at
>the underside I found what looks like a gearbox mounted to the front of
>the differential and looks to be operated by an electric solenoid .
>There's 2 wires that have been cut and there's no switch for it that I
>can find. There's no mention of it in the manual so I'm guessing it's an
>overdrive. Anyone seen one of these before? Are the wires just + and -?
>With it up on jack stands it's a good time to see if it works.
>
>Sounds much like a "Columbia" 2 speed rear of long ago.
>
>Never seen one of these!!! If it is in fact an OD unit on a 9" FOMOCO
rear I'm
>more than a little interested. Keep us posted....
>Where on the FOMOCO vehicles of this era is the "antilock brake device" that
>keeps up with the rotation of the rear and signals the brake computer??? My
>M*PARs have it on the rearend, but near the top in front up hi on the
housing.
>Kinda like a speedo cable entering the tranny, but is 2 electrical wires
>connected to some kind of plunger apparatus that supposedly "counts" the
>revolutions of the starter ring like device on the ring gear case..

I just talked to my "official" Disabled Ford Mechanic Friend and he said it
is probably an after-market device that actually acts the opposite of an
OD. It raises the gear ratio, most likely installed for towing a trailer...

Sounds pretty neat, whichever way it changes the gear ratio...

Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 17:53:39 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - starter Solenoids

Thanks for your message at 06:11 PM 10/28/99 -0400,
am14

daimlerchrysler.com. Your message was:
>
>
>Someone wrote: >>>My friend, Levi, says he uses Ford starter
solenoids...Will
>that work the
>>same way?,,
>
>
>Steve replied: >> Yup...They have a 250 Amp rating..
>
>I've personally tried these FOMOCO starter relays(or solenoids or whatever
- - the
>thing that sits on the passenger side fender), and have found that they won't
>last if held "on" for really long periods of time. They always open, and I
>assumed that they were not made to be held "on" for very long intervals,
>because, after all, starters will burn up if held on for long periods. Don't
>like knocking anything on our Ford trucks, but in this case I've not had good
>luck. The older M*opars that had a relay on the cowl on drivers side that
>supplied all the essential electricals with 12V, have been much better to me.
>They always are energized when the ignition is on, so are made for continuous
>operation. Don't have a clue as to the Amperage rating (is it OK to use a
HOJO
>term here), but I've had much success with these.
>
That is a great tip. I have a friend with a large back lot full of older
M*p*rs. Thanks!

Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 18:02:34 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Driving Lights and innovative thinking

Thanks for your message at 04:22 PM 10/28/99 -0700, Brett Withers. Your
message was:
>I've been following this thread for several days and man you guys are making
>a mountain out of a mole hill. I too have burned up my fair share of
>switches. The kind people out there in the aftermarket arena have solved
>this problem for us. Go to Pep Boys or any other autostore, and look in the
>electrical aisle. They sell a complete heavy duty wiring harness just for
>aux. lights. It has a 30 amp relay, 20 amp fuse and 2-10 gauge wires
>encased in a heat and gasoline resistant sheath. I recommend this and know
>that it works because I have two pair of 150 watt daylighters (one pair per
>harness) on my 78 and have had no switch problems for over two years.
>
...but that would take half the fun out of it...finding a new cheap (or
even free) way to do something in the "Good ol' American Know-How" way.
(Try to picture flags waving and marching bands playing...)

I will spend many hours trying to avoid going out and buying a relatively
cheap part...I usually end up at Al's Auto...

I'm still thinking about experimenting with hand-carved wood carb spacers...

Dennis Pearson in Kennewick, WA

1962 Unibody, short box, big window--351C
1966 F250 Custom Cab, 352, 4-speed
1962 short stepside (big empty space under the hood)
I shortened this to only FT's

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:45:30 -0500
From: Stu Varner
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Lincoln parts swap

At 08:01 AM 10/28/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Gang!
> After seeing Marv's sons truck with a Lincoln rear end in it .....

That sounds cool!!!!!

> The 400M C6 would be nice and ......

This doesn't!!!

Oh my Lord! Daver has gotten ahold of the Deacon and brainwashed
him..........Tell me it ain't so man!
You're not snatching that FE outta the rig and replacing it with an M-Block
are you?????

sniff, sobb, boo hoo......another FE may soon bite the dust......

(Good to have you back my man!)

Stu (sniff)
Nuke GM!

>Later!
>
>Deacon
>deconblu

ford-trucks.com
>deconblu

earthlink.net
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:40:19 EDT
From: GMontgo930

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

I guess this would be the wrong time to bring up the "homotron" theory of
electron interuptus!

George

In a message dated 10/27/1999 7:28:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,

gpeters3

visteon.com writes:

here,
Melvin, is that the wire has nothing to do with the switch burning out. A
bad contact, at the switch, could cause enough heat to damage the switch or
a bad switch or a load (gosh darn it there he goes again!) too great (too
high wattage rating of lights or a short) for the switch but the wires can
not be the problem.

Fortunately the rest of us don't have enough education to be mislead or
confused by this terminology, we read between the lines and try to get the
gist of the discussion and that's really all we need at this level :-)

If I say my barn is green and it's really white it's still a barn and if we
are talking about what barns are or how to build one the color is irrelevant
:-)
>>
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:53:22 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Rear Wheel Bearings

Bryan,
You may be able to get the old bearing off; but do not attempt to put the
new ones on yourself. A machince shop has to press them on. They will
press the inner race on to the shaft as not to damage the bearings. It
takes a huge arbor press and the right tooling. If you try to hammer them
on or press the inner race against the outer race, you will end up with
worse bearings than you started with. Also, before you put any money in
the axle, inspect the surface where the seal rides to be sure that it is
smooth. If it is pitted or scored, the seal will leak oil on to the brake
shoes and they will grab! I would let the machine shop take the old
bearing off since they have to get set up. It only take a couple of
minutes extra and I think it's worth it.

Tim
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:56:53 EDT
From: TBeeee

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers

In a message dated 10/28/99 7:24:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time, DAVEBOY

esn.net
writes:

>
> Measurements as requested: The #508 is 12 1/4 overall and the #440 is
> 12 1/2 overall
>
> Dave Turner
> 66 F1 (hope it doesn't rain)

Dave:

The book shows the following: The right-hand arm should be the one that
is 12-1/4" which is stamped as 508. The left-hand arm should be 12-1/2" long
and stamped 440. I will try to confirm this with another vehicle for you
just to be sure. I have two questions though: first, were the arms
installed correctly between them as to right and left; second, did you
examine the other parts in the wiper system to see if the pivot assemblies or
other parts have any damage? In the meantime, I'll pray for dry weather
while we try to sort this out for you.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:06:38 EDT
From: GMontgo930

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Re: Winter a-comin'

I remember as a kid, dad filled 3 hundred pound feed sacks with sand and
stashed em back next to the tailgate of our 73 F-100. After a week or so,
they got wet and froze into place not to move till the spring thaw.
My Gramps went one better (I think). He had a weight assy maid from some
railroad rail welded to fit into the underbed spare carrier. Took a floor
jack to install it, but worked well for him. He never weighed it but
estimates had it at about 500 lbs.

George

In a message dated 10/27/1999 4:17:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ae722

lafn.org
writes:

> With ole-man-winter approaching, anyone have some unique ideas for
weighting
> down your truck bed for traction? I have a few..

> - - inner-tube full of sand(great! but how the heck do you lift it up in
your
> truck being 200lbs without a hernia)

Did I miss something here? I'm picturing somebody with a tiny funnel dumping
#60
or finer sand into an inner-tube valve stem. Now, just how long does it
take to
fill an inner-tube with 200 pounds of sand? Seems to me that the sand bags
are
around a hundred pounds each, and you could just load the bags into your bed
unopened.
>>
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:10:47 -0500
From: "Jason & Kathy Kendrick"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 289 rebuild

I'm getting ready to rebuild a 289 for a '58 F100 and I had a couple
questions. How many rpm's and horsepower will the stock connecting rods
(with aftermarket rod bolts) handle? I'd like to get 325 to 350
horsepower, with the power curve peaking around 6000 rpm. Is this
possible?
Thanks, Jason Kendrick
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:19:35 EDT
From: JefriHansn

aol.com
Subject: Re:FTE 61-79 - Mileage and Vacuum

Ditto what Gary Peters is saying - everything makes a difference in the
vacume. It's all directly porportional to how hard the engine is working at
a given moment. For example - last week I could stand it no more - 3.3 mpg
on my 69 429 in my 79 F-150 4WD. The motor only has roughly 1100 miles on it
- - and the carb is about the only thing I haven't fixed on The Muny Pit. Took
this Holley off (I know - been reading everyone blasting it - but I'm not the
guy who bought it to put it on - just the fool who boought the whole dang
truck) and took it down to Dixons Speedshop and had him rebuild it. While it
was down, I got to looking at the intermentent climb in the temp gage while
sitting at lights. Found no air pull while sitting at idle. It had a 17
inch flexfan - probably some 20 yrs old. Went to Autozone and asked for a
fan for a 69 429 - they pulled out this huge 19 inch job - two inches bigger,
one blade more. Put it on. Got the carb back and got the whole death trap
rattling down the road again - only to be disappointed in this fresh carb -
having been told vacume is directly porportinal to gas milage. Before - at
70 mph - I had 17-18 on the gage. Before in 2nd or 3rd at a steady speed I
had 17-18. Now I had 16-18 in 2nd or 3rd at a steady speed - but on the open
interstate at 70 - I was only getting 10-11. WHY!!! Well, this week I found
a clutch fan in a boneyard on a 78 E-150 with a 460. Bought it because I
didn't like this 19 inch fan learjet sound at 3000 rpms. Put it on today at
lunch and guess what. That's right - seemed to gain 25 HP and vacume tonight
on the superspeedway was right back up there 17-18 at 70mph.
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:37:22 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - unleaded decals

according to some of the kit car manufactures, to get a kit car registered
they go by year model of the engine for emissions. if you build a cobra kit
car and put in a
90 mustang 5.0 in it, then it has to pass emissions, but if you put in an old
390 or 427 it does not have to have emiss junk
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:40:03 EDT
From: JJJJJGRANT

aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - OD on Linc rear

i saw an article on a boss 429 mustang once, they say it had a factory od
unit on the rear end. must've been a strong unit.

jeff grant
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:07:42 -0500
From: Brett L Habben
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Twin -I-Beam alignment

Neal,
How are your king pins? And on Ford's Twin-I-Beam remember that the axle
is actually two pieces and each half pivots from the frame. If your ride
height has changed due to spring sag, etc. this will affect camber. Make
sure all the wear items are checked/replaced.
If your Ford dealers can't/won't align this, then start calling truck
(big rig) repair shops. 20 years ago I was a bodyman in Minnesota and
routinely straightened frames and did alignments on trucks exactly as
what you need. Bending I -beams is how camber is corrected on trucks.
Did they say your Camber was OK? Tire wear is mostly toe in.
Brett,
Super75cab
>
>Guys,
>I hope you can help me out. My 68 Mercury M-100 has
>an appetite for front tires. The inside shoulder of
>the tires wear very quickly.
>I have had the alignment done twice by two separate
>shops with no change. The last shop told me they
>could only adjust the camber as they no longer had the
>equipment to bend the I-beams for a full adjustment.
>Do you have to bend the I-beams on these trucks to do
>an alignment?
>Second, does anybody know of a shop in the Twin Cities
>area of Minnesota that might be able to do a proper
>alignment on this truck?
>TIA,
>Neal De Pape
>From: Neal De Pape

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:43:52 -0500
From: Brett L Habben
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Quadrajet on Offy 300 intake

Neal,
You'll need an adapter to a put a spreadbore like a Qjet on your Offy
intake. Which Offy do you have?
1.) Dual Plane/Dual Port model 6019, carb mounts sideways.
2.) Single Plane Competition "C" , carb mounts inline.
If you have the Competition "C" single plane, any Spreadbore-to-Square
adapter will work because all four barrels dump into a large single
plenum.
If you have the Dual Port 6019, it gets a little more complex. This
intake has one plenum and set of runners for the carb primaries, and a
separate second plenum and set of runners for the carb secondaries. Make
sure you get a four-hole spacer/adapter that maintains the separation
(like Jegs 350-2696). If you get a Spreadbore-to-Square adapter that
just has a large open plenum in the middle you have defeated the design
of the intake by tying all four barrels into one and both sets of intake
runners into one.
If you scrounge up a used a Qjet, get a good Qjet book so you'll know
what to look for and how to set one up. Avoid the early ('65-68?) ones
because they had a nasty habit of losing spun in plugs and sprouting a
leak. I used to hoard the big Pontiac 830 cfm versions with the
straight-in fuel line connector any time I ran across one. But any of
the 70's ch*vy QJets are easy to find and can be made to work great.
Just start asking around with the ch*v guys and you'll scare one up.
Brett
Super75cab

>Guys,
>I have another question, I am running a 300 6 cylinder
>with an Offenhauser intake in my 1968 Mercury M-100.
>Will the Quadrajet fit on this intake?
>Can anyone recommend a good source for a Quadrajet for
>this truck? The ideal source would be a car I could
>Neal From: Neal De Pape

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:28:29 PDT
From: "Mark Mcknight"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Headers

Hey Guys, Yeah... this motor thing is a screw off... but dah well... now I'm
lookin' for headers... Did they ever make Cast headers? I'd hate to use
these aluminum things.... ;o( they suck... but anyways.. any info about it
would be great... as I would really love the sound! hehehheh

Thanks
Mark
85' Ford F-150 Explorer (Blown)
78' Ford F-100 (Tubbed)

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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 01:44:05 -0400
From: Ted Wnorowski
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Body stuff, running Beast, high idle, w/s washer.

At 08:16 AM 10/18/99 -0500, you wrote:

>.. the rubber in hockey
>pucks isn't nearly as flexible as that found on motor mounts ...
> if you drop it
>on your head you will really be not very happy
>
>
I know it's a little late on this one. Hockey pucks are the least
rubber like thing made of rubber, if that makes any sense. They have a very
high clay content that makes them hard as rocks. I can still feel the scar
on the inside of my bottom lip! Couldn't eat for about 4 days.
Anyway, the Beast is running again. It took a floor jack, some
small blocks of wood, and a couple of holes reamed out to get it all lined
up. It changed the gap on the passenger side door also. I think that could
be the rotted out cab mounts and the floor being gone. When I put the "new"
inner fenders in next summer, I'll address that problem.
Right now with the weather a little colder, with the exception of
the next few days, I can't get my new carb to "high idle". It will if I
pull the choke out when it's warmed up. It went down shortly after I put
the new carb on it, so it's still running a little rich. I don't know if
that would have anything to do with it? Any suggestions? I'm new at
fiddling with adjusting a carb any more than the curb idle adjustment. I
can always dig a book out but figured someone out there could give it to me
in plain English.
My next dilemma has to do with windshield washer plumbing. I've
been amassing the parts to add a w/s washer to my truck. I have the"See
Clear" bag, a brand new NOS foot pump and a couple of jets. I can't
completely figure out how the hoses hook up to this thing. There is a large
and a small fitting on the pump and the bag cap.Do I hook up large to
large and small to small? If so, which one do I tap into to go to the
washer jets?
As always, any and all help is greatly
appreciated.

Ted Wnorowski
Bellevue,OH
' 64 F-250
352 transplant
4 speed

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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:33:02 -0800
From: "Mike Sealey"
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Grills and other matters( typos corrected)

On Thu, 28 Oct 1999 10:02:51 Dennis Pearson wrote:

>This is not a new idea to me....It actually stems from
>something I read in an automotive design book about 20
>years ago. (snip) Anyway, in that book, one auto
>designer from the 1950's who stated there was a
>conscious effort to give the cars sexual
>characteristics to make them more appealing...

This is a Ford list and this thread hasn't mentioned the obvious, the '58 Edsel?

Mike Sealey
'75 F150, '99 Windstar (taxicab),
and multiple non-FoMoCo vehicles

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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 02:03:53 -0500
From: JOHN E DOLSON
Subject: FTE 61-79 - rear wheel bearings R&R

Leave the press work to the parts house where you get the bearings.

Press work?, for rear wheel bearings on a ford, you don't need no stinkin
press.

Heres how I, learned to , and have always changed rear wheel bearings:
1) after you have removed the axle, put the axle in a vice with the lugs
pointed upward at 45 degrees, the vice jaws should touch the axle on a
non-machined suface about 2 inces below the bearing retainer
2) use a cold chisel and a BF Hammer to drive off the retainer, wear eye
protection
3)to remove the bearing you can use a bearing remover, the kind with a
wedge on either side of the axle and 2 bolts you tighten to move the
wedges closer together and dislodge the bearing, I however have found it
easier to carefully cut the bearing off with a diegrinder, and/or a cold
chisel
4)after removing the bearing and outer seal support the axle, lug studs
down, with a block of wood or an old brake drum, the main Idea here is to....

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