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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #390
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61-79-list-digest Wednesday, October 27 1999 Volume 03 : Number 390

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 61-79 - Finally!
FTE 61-79 - Oil coming out dipstick tube
Re: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250
FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.
FTE 61-79 - Crossover/Blackout/Hot 300s
FTE 61-79 - Re: Pitman arm for PS conv
FTE 61-79 - High Perf. 300 six
FTE 61-79 - Re: a built 300
FTE 61-79 - 64 Truck Cabs
Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: 64 F100 gas filler
Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage
Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts
FTE 61-79 - 56 COE
FTE 61-79 - My dictionary is dog eared now !
Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage
FTE 61-79 - Winter a-comin'
FTE 61-79 - Spicer is GM owned - or at least it used to
Re: FTE 61-79 - Winter a-comin'



Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 14:53:57 -0700
From: "Bill Beyer"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Finally!

Well P.A.W. was kind enough to replace my 2 piece cam with a 1 piece which
finally arrived today along with the backordered intake and 4V adapter. Yay!
I can finally get back to work on my 400. I do have a question about
modifying the intake. I checked the intake ports on the manifold against the
gasket and there is a significant difference, quite a bit more than there
was on the heads. I don't think there's nearly enough metal to get the ports
even close to the same size as the gasket or the heads. Any thought? Should
I just smooth the ports out and open 'em up as much as I can? Has anyone
ever worked on the Edelbrock Performer 400-EGR before?


"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, riddle them with bullets"

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:46:08 -0400
From: am14
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Oil coming out dipstick tube

John writes: >>So I guess I am asking will oil come out of my dipstick tube
under hard
driving conditions if the dipstick is out?

Y E S !!!

Ardmore, Al.

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:54:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: canzus
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?

At 10:12 PM 25:10:99 EDT, Bad4dFilly wrote:
>In a message dated 10/26/1999 12:05:48 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
> before you destroy your ring gear >>

I'd be more inclined to say the selonoid was on the way out,
I've had it happen to me....

Steve & the Rockette
63 F100
72 Capri 2000, hers
73 Capri 2600, needs tube frame...
73 MGB GT, Our Toy
97 Contour, Mine

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 19:24:21 EDT
From: TBeeee
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250

In a message dated 10/26/99 4:26:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
David.R.John writes:

> If they don't fit then it is a lot more time and $ to fix this goof.
> I found a set of 4 16x6 off of an 89 will these work? Thanks again all!!!!

My understanding is that the Ford 16x6's should work fine for you. Somewhere
in the early 80's?? they started putting double piston calipers on the front
of the F-250's. My brother had this set-up on an 84 which came from the
factory with the 16x6 size; they fit my 67 F-250 4x4 with drums up front.
I looked for quite a while for a used set. I ended up buying brand new 16x7
rims in 1992 from my local Ford dealer which were special ordered by a
customer and never picked up.

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 20:46:20 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.

The base number for pitman arms is 3590. So the part number would have to
be D7TA-3590-something
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 18:22:19 -0700
From: "J.S.H"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Crossover/Blackout/Hot 300s

>>Dropped a 3/8"washer down the heat crossover/heat riser in the
Any ideas on getting it out? Can I leave it in there?

>As long as you are sure it is in the Exhaust crossover, leave it there. > Can't hurt anything, but may make a small rattling sound occasionally. >If you want to retreive it, try a magnet....

Thanks Azie.Stuck a piece of bailing wire down there and it went down
in the passage a loong way.I know the cross over is for intake heat,
what is the passage in the head? Is it like a water jacket around the
exhaust port ?

>i was also told the inspectors always look to see if the
>gauge has "unleaded fuel"
>if it doesn't it isn't required, if that is true, what keeps us from
>installing early model instrument panels?

How a bout popping the clear cover off the gauge cluster and getting a
little flat black paint and .......

All this talk about 300 sixes reminded me of a dragster I saw at
Sacramento Raceway years ago.2 300 sixes bolted together, Hilborn
injectors,on nitro,four 3 into 1 open headers.
Never heard anything before or since that like sounded quite like that!!
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 21:49:26 EDT
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: Pitman arm for PS conv

Just so everyone knows.....ALL SuperCab 4x4's used the F-250 4x4 frame.
F-150 Supercab 4x4's use leaf springs in the front (also in the rear like
usual). I have the Microphich & Books (same as the dealers use to find the
parts you need when you go to them), and the list only one frame part number
for the supercab. If you have a 4x4 Supercab it is CAKE to convert it to 8
lug. I know this to be true from 2 parts trucks that I parted out a few
years ago. If anybody has any questions....Just Ask!!!!

Wayne Grabley
1979 F-350 Ranger Lariet 4x4
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT
1979 F-350 Custom 4x4
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 18:08:00 -0800
From: "4Travis"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - High Perf. 300 six

Hi I have been following this post for several months with great interest.
I have been in the process of rebuilding a 74 F250 FWD with a 300 six. I
have been working on this thing off and on for more years than I like to
admit. Its kind of embarrassing. Any way I have done a lot of work to this
truck. On the engine I have bored it .060 and installed 9 to 1 hyperautetic
pistons, I was told these pistons were a high quality cast piston with a
very low ratio of expansion. New main and rod bearings, oil pump, I had the
rods resized, shot peened and magnafluxed with new rod bolts installed. I
ported and polished the head myself; basically gasket matching and cleaning
up the pockets; I put in new valve guides with Teflon valve seals stainless
steel intake and exhaust valves hardened valve seats with high performance
springs and retainers and keepers as well as chrome molley pushrods. I
installed a stud kit for the head and 3/8's inch rocker studs and roller
rockers. Most of the high performance stuff I got from Clifford's 6=8
Engineering. Course with their roller rockers I had to use their cast
aluminum valve cover cause the stock cover won't fit with roller rockers. I
also used Clifford's cam which was their 270 degree "torque" cam with
Clifford's high perf. hydraulic lifters. I am using a Clifford's 4 barrel
intake manifold that is water heated (I live in Alaska) with a Holley 4
barrel 465cfm square bore carb with vacuum secondary and a Clifford's
exhaust header that I had coated with "Jet Hot" ceramic coating and then
wrapped in high temp header wrap (Ya I know I'm kinda anal). I have an
electric fan and electric fuel pump. I coverted the ignition system from
points to the ford "Dura Spark II" system. The clutch is a "Centerforce"
counter weighted diaphragm type. I even used a sealed ball bearing for a
pilot bearing. I have run the engine it might have an hour on it but I have
not as yet drove this truck the cab and front clip is mounted but not the
doors, hood or bed. no windshield either (remember this is Alaska). So how
do you think its going to run? It sounds strong but then I'm biased. Its
nice to know I'm not the only person attached to these old trucks. I have
done as much or more to other components of this truck but figure I have
bored you guys enough. I wish I could post a pick but I don't have a
digital camera or scanner yet but plan to pick up a scanner soon. Then I
can post a few pics of my project if your interested. well enough for now.

Geffrey Travis
96 F350 FWD PSD Crew Cab
81 F250 Geezer mobile
74 F250 FWD "Highboy"
96 Harley Davidson Road King
97 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (wife's)

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 21:58:26 -0500
From: Brett L Habben
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Re: a built 300

My old Clifford Research catalog lists pistons for 4 3/8" stroker 300.
They must know where to get a crank to go with those pistons. Give
Clifford Research a call.
>Hi Does anyone know were I can get a stroker crank and dome pistons for
>300 six. If you know were to get one, or have ever built a 300 before
>me about it.
>Martin "Stampede" Steiner

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 18:51:19 -0700
From: Tim Bowman
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 64 Truck Cabs

Bill Brox wrote:
Wish I could find some pics of one from 1964 or similar cab at least.


Go to the FTE website ( and look up the pictorial
for a 64 truck. While the trucks there are F100's and F250's, they'll
give you a representation of what the cab looks like. Like someone
else on an earlier post has said, the principal difference is that the
front fenders are flared out to permit a wider axle and larger wheels.
The basic cab is the same.

Tim Bowman
Burien, WA
71 F100

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 23:35:50 EDT
From: GMontgo930
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - RE: 64 F100 gas filler

Ive had to replace the vent line on my '73 F100, '79 Bronco, & 91 E150. Used
a piece of standard 3/4" Rubber Heater Hose. Worked fine & Last along time in
all cases. Never had to mess with the filler line though. Anyone got a line
on 2-2 1/2" Heater Hose? ;-)


In a message dated 10/26/1999 2:49:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
crewcab writes:

I asked - "How does one check mileage accurately in a
'64 with the huge filler neck?". I can't even lock
the nozzle, it won't stay in place. One can't get any
sense of mileage unless the filling is consistent from
tank to tank.

An adapter might work, but the weight of the nozzle
will be hanging on it, so anticipate that.

The most worrisome part is that for the nozzle to shut
off automatically, the fuel level has to actually reach
the tip of the nozzle. At this point the fuel is now
sitting past the rubber hose joints between the filler
neck and tank. Any leak in those joints or hose and
fuel is dripping inside the cab, until enough gets used
by driving. Could get unpleasant in the cab from the
fumes, let alone the fire danger.

Unfortunately I have a live-in fume detector and she
detected odors on a drive last weekend, so I need to
replace that hose. Someone had an inexpensive solution
for this I think, care to share again? A new piece of
hose from Sacramento Vintage Ford is $12, and with the
lack of an income (and job) starting next week, the
hose will have to wait.
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 23:56:45 EDT
From: GMontgo930
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

The wire length wont have any effect on your switch failure. I still think
that the failure was caused by some crud in the switch and heat generated by
a not so clean contact.

The Idea behind the relay is that they are normally built beefier than most
switches and they can be located so that the heavy current carrying wires are
shorter. The net effect is brighter lights due to more voltage from less loss
from normal wiring resistance. (Even electrons get tired when they gots to go
a long ways!)


In a message dated 10/26/1999 9:55:01 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jlagrone writes:

think the problem was caused by the distance from the switch to the lights?
I could see the wire getting hot if the gauge was too small. The lights feed
from a plug on the fuse box that is hot when the ignition is on only. So the
switch is a good 8 inches from the feed. ????? >>
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 00:07:20 EDT
From: GMontgo930
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

Yer welcome!

In a message dated 10/26/1999 1:48:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jlagrone writes:

>My gut hunch is that you had a bad switch (or connection at the switch)
causing lots of heat and melting the switch.

Thanks, George. You hit the nail on the head. I re-examined my wiring and
sure enough I have a bad crimp at the switch on the wire that goes from the
switch to the lights. Extra resistance, extra heat, fried switch.

Some day when I get time (ha ha) I'm going to figure out how to wire relays.
I have lots of places to use them. I understand the principles of a relay, I
just don't know what the terminal markings mean.

Thanks to everyone who responded to this thread. Now I can illuminate the
Texas night again.
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 00:13:04 EDT
From: GMontgo930
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts

I had to ban the wife from driving my '79 Bronco. Something about clipping a
(fast moving) fire hydrant with the left front while trying to avoid the
small tree behind her (on the other side of the parking lot). Had to put a
"My wife did this" message with arrow just to prevent some really nasty
looks. Right after I took the message off, she sideswipes our mounted in
cinderblock mailbox. Didn't admit to anything till the door fell off in my
hands with the telltale brown paint!

I hated to do it, but it was for the Bronco's own good!

In a message dated 10/26/1999 1:51:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
jlagrone writes:

in the left front fender again and got the hood too this time. Extremely
minor compared to what you have been describing. What burns me is it was one
of my neighbors again. I'm so careful when I'm out and about and my truck
always gets damaged parked in front of my house.

Can I come to the Montana wilderness, too?
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 21:10:51 -0700
From: "J.S.H"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 56 COE

> I have a 76 HD359 eng I'm putting in 56 COE.

Sounds like a cool truck,but my 76 truck manaual does not list a HD359.
330.36 etc. but no 359.

> The Distributer in this engine has two vaccumn lines running
> to it for the governor off the carb. Can I omit these lines w/out
> any problem?

One is advance one is retard.You could prbably get away with just the
advance and plug the retard

> Also, is an electric choke coil
> HOT all the time key is on?

>Would be a lot easier if I just need
> a wire from my Ign. switch.Give me some ideas!

I hooked mine to the starter solenoid,closer than ign.switch
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 02:02:57 -0400
From: pdesanto
Subject: FTE 61-79 - My dictionary is dog eared now !

> The term 'amperage' is a hojo term..
> 'Amps'...another hojo term.
> A Coulomb is a quantity of electron......
> One volt is one Joule per Coulomb.........
> Another hojo term: 'condenser' .........
> A term bordering on hojo, but I usually let it pass is
> 'Voltage'................
> Us Engineers call it the Transfer Function of a system... as a frequency
> domain function using the complex frequency variables. Much easier to
> diddle with than time domain functions...........Fur sure !
> Yep, I'm getting too esoteric about a simple problem but I guess I will
> just have to whence & bear it when I hear those colloquial terms
> regarding electricity.
Wow, never heard it put quite like that before. And to think I was gonna
razz Dennis for using the word "oxymoron" ! Hey John...I'll bet ya get
those light wired up now. :-)

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 02:47:02 EDT
From: SHill48337
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

In a message dated 10/26/1999 1:46:01 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bobdobbs writes:

terminology: 'Electric Potential' or just 'Potential'
Well now, I am glad you will put up with the terminology used on this list.
And I've got to admit I get a little frustrated from time to time with some
of the electrical descriptions and I noted you did not call out all of the
inconsistencies, but most of us are not studying for our EIT exams. Making
our trucks work is our major concern. I am sure you realize the meters on
commercial electrical plant monitoring panels use the word Voltage and right
beside the Voltage Meter is the Amp Meter. Not only that but the batteries
in our trucks generally have the term Amps and Volts printed or embossed on
the case. Never where the rubber meets the road have I seen the term
Electrical Potential, and generally the term Amp is used vs. Ampere. Look at
your handy dandy volt/ohm meter. Please do not take this the wrong way, it
is not that hard to apply a graded approach to the content and find the
problem and offer a solution. Keep in mind no one is going make double Es
out of this list over night, but with continuous tutoring the level of
confidence and understanding will improve. Probably said more than I should
and sounds like you came to the same conclusion. Hope to read more posts
from you. Thanks
Burt Hill Kennewick WA 1972 F-250 4x4 460
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 01:09:58 -0600
From: "Greg Sage"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Winter a-comin'

With ole-man-winter approaching(doesn't apply to southerners....lucky dogs),
anyone have some unique ideas for weighting down your truck bed for
traction? I have a few..
- - hay bails(take up too much room)
- - sidewalk blocks(I can see in an accident they would be flying through your
back window)
- - sand bags(need about 20 3lbs to get any decent weight)
- - inner-tube full of sand(great! but how the heck do you lift it up in your
truck being 200lbs without a hernia)

Calgary, Alberta...Canada
1978 F150 2WD 351M/400 C6 w/shiftkit 2nd owner "Albert"

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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 00:21:00 -0700
From: Scott grossen
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Spicer is GM owned - or at least it used to

Spicer is owned by Dana, and im pretty sure it was bought by Ford
not positive though, but i think thats why chevy uses Corporate axles
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 01:26:48 -0600....

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