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Subject: 61-79-list-digest V3 #389
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61-79-list-digest Tuesday, October 26 1999 Volume 03 : Number 389



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1961-1979 Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

RE: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: 64 F100 gas filler
FTE 61-79 - Xfer case speedo
FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers
Re: FTE 61-79 - a built 300?
FTE 61-79 - boat anchor
RE: FTE 61-79 - Traction Lok kit for Dana 61-2?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Xfer case speedo & mounts idea!
Re: FTE 61-79 - boat anchor
FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers
Re: FTE 61-79 - Xfer case speedo & mounts idea!
RE: FTE 61-79 - Almost lost my '68 F100
FTE 61-79 - 63>65 cab swap
RE: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?
FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers- Tire size
RE: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250
FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv
RE: FTE 61-79 - F-600 governor
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.
FTE 61-79 - Washer in Exhaust crossover
RE: FTE 61-79 - F-600 governor
FTE 61-79 - Gear ratios
RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: 64 F100 gas filler
RE: FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts
FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage
RE: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage
RE: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250
Re: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250
FTE 61-79 - F 600 GVW
FTE 61-79 - 300 I6 introduction
RE: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?
FTE 61-79 - Instrumentation
Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 I6 introduction
RE: FTE 61-79 - Almost lost my '68 F100
RE: FTE 61-79 - Fishes and Tails....
FTE 61-79 - A built 300?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Starter that won't quit....
FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage
FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv
Re: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.
RE: FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts
RE: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage
Re: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?
FTE 61-79 - 66 wierd year?
RE: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.
Re: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?
Re: FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts
RE: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250
Re: FTE 61-79 - 1974 Ford Pickup
Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage
Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

=======================================================================

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 07:08:21 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.

F-150 and f-250 use the same sector shaft. The box is differnt in differnt
applications but the shaft the pitman arm attaches to is the same,
unfortunately. I was hoping to upgrade the bronco with a stronger box but
they are the same basic design. Not sure about the 350 though.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> wrecker who says he has 78 F150 super cab 4x4 pitman arm and it is the
> same as the f250 4x4 pitman arm. Is this correct or does he
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 07:50:33 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: 64 F100 gas filler

The most accurate way to measure mileage is over time. If you refill the
tank 10 times, 5 will be short and 5 will be full and the average will be
pretty predictable. This way you are working with larger numbers so any
rounding, estimating etc. will be averaged much better for more accurate
results. You can't get a feel for average economy on one day or on one
short trip because weather conditions will affect the economy, sometimes
very much. For all practical purposes we should be more interested in long
term averages anyway since this helps us determine the cost of operating the
truck.

If you are concerned about how far you can get on a tank of gas because you
are going somewhere you may not be able to get some like BAHA or route 66
then carry extra :-)

Fume detector, unfinished job detector, sale detector, Joneses latest
purchase detector..........:-(

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> the nozzle, it won't stay in place. One can't get any
> sense of mileage unless the filling is consistent from
> tank to tank.

> Unfortunately I have a live-in fume detector and she
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 07:54:43 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Xfer case speedo

Tony writes: >> The Speedo mount on
the Spicer-24 is the type that somehow (and somebody just yanked it out)
attaches and then screws into the case. Anybody know what the heck I'm
talking about, and what I would have to do to be able to hook up the 24's
speedo?

Not sure this is correct, but Ch**ys used to have this type of output from their
trannys... Maybe a look around your favorite salvage yard at some Ch**ys to see
if you could get one of their speedo cables... I think the end going on the
speedo itself are the same... (Spicer is GM owned - or at least it used to
be)..

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:26:58 -0400
From: "David J. Turner"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers

Thanks for your help guys. To answer your question, it is a single speed
wiper.

Dave Turner



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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 05:34:13 -0700
From: John Lord
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - a built 300?

A Cheap way to raise the compression it use standard size pistions from a 390,
Ive done it it works but i dont remember the Overbore off hand

martin steiner wrote:

> Hi Does anyone know were I can get a stroker crank and dome pistons for a
> 300 six. If you know were to get one, or have ever built a 300 before tell
> me about it.
> thanks
>
> Martin "Stampede" Steiner
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:30:51 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - boat anchor

Tony writes: >>Ok, So I can accept the fact that my NP205 divorced might be a
boat anchor.

What makes you say that the NP205 is a boat anchor??? I'm curious. I've always
thought that it was one of the most reliable and toughest of all Xfer cases!!!!!

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:34:49 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Traction Lok kit for Dana 61-2?

Reider Racing has them. You have to buy a whole case with gears etc.
because the housing is different for the LS. For a price you can get an
installation kit as well with shims needed to set the backlash and pinion
depth etc.. Not sure if the new diff comes with bearings or not, you have
to ask. When you put it in you also have to reset the backlash. Pinion
depth should not be affected so it's actually a fairly simple install. A
spreader is nice to have for this job though because the axle housing and
diff housing fit together with zero clearance and without a spreader you
have to be able to slide the housing in absolutely straight or it will bind.
With the spreader you have more lee way. Some auto parts stores will rent
these, basically free with a deposit to cover the cost of the tool.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hi, all. With winter approaching, I thought it might be
> prudent to make an
> improvement to my pickup in the traction department.
> Is there a kit that I can install in my diff to transform it into a
> Traction Lok? Price?
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:35:17 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Xfer case speedo & mounts idea!

Once again your knowledge and wisdom astounds me Azie--

You deserve a cookie! 8-)

I looked at a friends 700R4, and a T5 that came out of a Firechicken, and
they both were the same style that my 24 has in it-- Solution solved! One
of my friends offered to let me borrow his speedo-cable that he has on his
truck to have it sent out and duplicated-- so I think I just might be set.

On another note-- My rubber stud bushings were completely shot on both
T-cases I have, so after calling around trying to find a piece of nice
thick woven rubber, and not being able to come up with anything, I came up
with a brainstorm, ran down to Summit Racing, and bought a Polyurethane 1/2
ton 4x4 Radius Arm Bushing kit! If you cut the shoulders (that go into
the radius arm mount) off, you get perfect sized poly bushings that can be
used on the transfer case! It's a little pricey as you need 2 sets of the
suckers at $18 bucks per 4, but I think it should keep it in line for quite
some time!

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com


At 07:54 AM 10/26/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>Tony writes: >> The Speedo mount on
>the Spicer-24 is the type that somehow (and somebody just yanked it out)
>attaches and then screws into the case. Anybody know what the heck I'm
>talking about, and what I would have to do to be able to hook up the 24's
>speedo?
>
>Not sure this is correct, but Ch**ys used to have this type of output from
their
>trannys... Maybe a look around your favorite salvage yard at some Ch**ys
to see
>if you could get one of their speedo cables... I think the end going on the
>speedo itself are the same... (Spicer is GM owned - or at least it used to
>be)..
>
>Azie
>Ardmore, Al.
>
>
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>
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:38:52 -0400
From: Tony Marino
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - boat anchor

At 08:30 AM 10/26/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Tony writes: >>Ok, So I can accept the fact that my NP205 divorced might
be a
>boat anchor.
>
>What makes you say that the NP205 is a boat anchor??? I'm curious. I've
always
>thought that it was one of the most reliable and toughest of all Xfer
cases!!!!!


I absolutely agree!!! If you have any lying around, (divorced) I'll send
my little "parts boy" Mr. Stu Varner out to pick one up!!!!! Seriously,
The reason I said that is not in a derogatory tone whatsoever, my transfer
case has been used and abused, and every yoke is loose on every shaft, and
every shaft is loose on every bearing, etc... it's just plain worn out, and
would cost me way to much to rebuild it. The spicer-24 I had as a spare
and is good an tight. I believe them both to be excellent, reputable
transfer cases unlike that cheap piece of crap BW-13-56 in my '93!

Tony Marino
redneck raex.com
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:47:14 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers

Dave:
The Ford MPC states that the right-hand arm is 12-1/4" long-Black (part
no. C3TZ-17545-A); The book now becomes unclear for the other arm because it
doesn't show years or models for the left-hand side, but in looking at the
book more carefully it only lists one left-hand arm in that section. That
must be it: 12-1/2" long - Silver (part no. C1TB-17540-A); Check to see if
these specs agree with what you have now and let us know.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:55:04 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Xfer case speedo & mounts idea!

In a message dated 10/26/99 8:42:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time, tony pscico.com
writes:

> I came up
> with a brainstorm, ran down to Summit Racing, and bought a Polyurethane 1/2
> ton 4x4 Radius Arm Bushing kit! If you cut the shoulders (that go into
> the radius arm mount) off, you get perfect sized poly bushings that can be
> used on the transfer case!

Your fix will probably work just fine, but from my recollection when I
rebuilt mine a few years ago (10 to be exact), the original transfer case
bushings also have a similar shoulder to isolate the stud from the steel
mount. You wouldn't have known that looking at the old ones, but the new
ones I bought at Ford sure did. They are probably only available NOS now.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 07:58:59 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Almost lost my '68 F100

>I think if I had had a stock air
> cleaner on the
> carb instead of the cheap Mr. Gasket foam one that the backfire
> would have
> been a non-issue. I'm going to check out the timing chain and
> distributor
> just to be sure they're not worn. I don't think I can go
> through that one
> again. Anyone have any more suggestions to check out?
>

I've actually heard of this before, so I'm not real surprised. Definitely
get a peek at that timing chain and the dist. just to be sure, likely though
it just got "loaded up" and popped the one time .. odd that it didn't start
for you right away after the pop though ...

Good Luck.


Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:44:05 -0400
From: "Sheldon Rier"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 63>65 cab swap

Hi All

doing a 65 M-100 merc with a rotted cab

also have a 63 f100 parts truck with a much better cab

understand that the 65-66 cab mounts are out in front & the 64 & older cab
mounts are near the front door pillar (Neither truck is here so can't check)

anyways my questions are:
is it a big deal to put the 63 cab on 65 frame??
anyone know of any really good 65-66 cabs???

Thanks!!!!
Sheldon

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:04:38 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?

> LOL But
> he showed me
> how to fishtail so that was purty fun! HeHe!

I assume you meant he showed you how to get the truck to fish tail ;)

Anyway, you've got a short bed right ? Likely a very short wheel base, so
be careful when trying stuff like this, you get it a litte too far sideways
and let off the gas ... boom the tires catch and you could be lookin for a
new ride ...

I'm always one for havin a good time when it comes to drivin (see
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ranger3.cc.iastate.edu/autocross.html for proof), so I'm not bein
mean or anything, just playing that little voice in your head ...



> =P Oh
> well, must be
> a guy thing! *wink*
>

I get that a lot when I start my vehicles lately ...


- -------------------------------------------------------
You're just jealous 'cause the voices only talk to me
- -------------------------------------------------------

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:07:47 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 Wipers- Tire size

Dave,
We got our shop manual at Bob Johnson's Auto Literature in Framington,
Mass. I lost the phone number; but I've posted it many times on this list.
Maybe someone has it or you can look into the archives. Ford sold power
steering as an option in 66 and they sold a kit to convert 66's. The power
steering I have is the original stuff; but we found it on a doner vehicle
and converted it. Looks great. Speedometer is off! Is your wiper one or
two speed? Haven't seen any stabilizers out there.

Tim 66F100 SWB Custom Cab w/Origainal P/S and O/D
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:41:25 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250

If it came with 16.5" the only problem you may run into is rotor/drum
clearance on the inside of the wheel due to ID or backspacing issues.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I am looking for some plain steel Ford 16" rims to replace my
> 16.5" rims.
> Am I okay in getting any Ford 8 bolt 16" steel wheel, or are there
> different ones.
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:15:57 -0700
From: "O'Connor"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv

Kirk,
Do you have the Ford part number for the Pitman arm you are looking for?

Tim 66F100 SWB Custom Cab w/Origainal P/S and O/D
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:05:36 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - F-600 governor

Any lines going to the dizzy vac operate the vac advance so should be hooked
to a vacuum source. If you have the dual vac they are typically connected
to different places in the venturi so using a carb without these ports would
also require changing the vac to a single which can then be run off manifold
vacuum. You need the vac, it makes the engine usable under various loads
encounterd in a truck. Without it you will have serious drivability
problems.

AFAIK the electric choke coil is on all the time on older vehicles. Newer
vehicles have computer control over this and some older ones have temp
switches operated by coolant temp to turn them on and off. All of mine are
on all the time.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The Distributer in this engine has two vaccumn lines running
> to it for the governor off the carb. Can I omit these lines w/out
> any problem? I don't care if it has gov. and there's no place
> on other carb to connect them. Also, is an electric choke coil
> HOT all the time key is on?
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:20:55 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.

Peters, Gary (G.R.) wrote:
>
> F-150 and f-250 use the same sector shaft. The box is differnt in differnt
> applications but the shaft the pitman arm attaches to is the same,
> unfortunately. I was hoping to upgrade the bronco with a stronger box but
> they are the same basic design. Not sure about the 350 though.
>

350 box is the same as 250.

OX
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:24:01 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Washer in Exhaust crossover

J H S writes: >>Dropped a 3/8"washer down the heat crossover/heat riser in the
head.
Any ideas on getting it out? Can I leave it in there?

As long as you are sure it is in the Exhaust crossover, leave it there. Can't
hurt anything, but may make a small rattling sound occasionally. If you want to
retreive it, try a magnet....

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:30:03 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - F-600 governor

> I have a 76 HD359 eng I'm putting in 56 COE.

Well I'm not going to claim to know anything about this truck in particular
...

> The Distributer in this engine has two vaccumn lines running
> to it for the governor off the carb. Can I omit these lines w/out
> any problem?

Probably not, likely these control the advance and retard of the ignition
... one of them will probably be "ported" vaccum and the other "manifold"
vaccuum. That is one will be just above the throttle plates so that there
is no vaccuum present until the throttle is opened just slightly, then
vacuum will increase as the throttle opens, and generally act strangely
compared with manifold vacuum which is high when the throttle plates are
closed and low when they are opened.

I could be way off base here as it is a heavy duty motor and application
which I haven't spent much time with...

> I don't care if it has gov. and there's no place
> on other carb to connect them.

Check the carb, if the vaccuum port it supplies is "ported" (sometimes
called "delayed")then all you need to do is use one of the vaccuum "trees"
that plugs into the manifold directly as it will be the same as the vaccuum
from the "manifold" vaccuum port...

I hope this is making some sense ... its much easier to see with a vaccuum
gauge and takes no time to diagnose with a section of hose and a gauge.


> Also, is an electric choke coil
> HOT all the time key is on?

Yes.


> Do I still need to hook-up a tube
> to exhaust manifold with one? The new carb has electric and
> place for tube.

In that case I'd say you hook both of them up ...

> Not sure if some relay is needed or what?
> Seems it would burn-out if on all the time, and maybe that's
> why it still needs tube. Would be a lot easier if I just need
> a wire from my Ign. switch.Give me some ideas!

Okay, here's how that thing works, actually its similar to a toaster (only
much lower wattage I would imagine :) you just run current (12V or so)
through a heating element that heats the likely bimetallic spring that's
coiled up in there... this will emulate the engine warming up, so it will
need to be on as long as the key is on, granted this will cause problems if
you sit for extended periods with the key on and the truck not running, but
how often do we do that ? I have this setup on my Holley ( as I duck from
the flying stuff I'm sure Gary's gonna throw ) and it works quite well ...
the way I usually set the chokes on my vehicles (now this is just my
procedures, yours may vary based on climate or carb), I usually warm the
vehicle up, and set the choke so its just opened ... usually something I do
after I get back from town and think its not set right ... I'll likely have
to re-set it in the winter once as the truck doesn't warm up as much.
Another approach I have used with some success is to take a mild day (like
this morning) and set the choke to just closed (a little tension, but not
much), then double check it after the truck warms up to be sure its opened.
This carb I have has more than enough travel in its spring to let either of
these options work quite well, the older Motorcrafts I've played with have
been pretty worn out I think and not had nearly so much spring travel.

Hope that doesn't all sound greek (or is that geek ?) ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:29:16 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Gear ratios

Jim writes: >>Also, was the 1st gear of the 292 3-on-the-tree the same as
the "second" gear in my 292? My tranny is a 4 speed, but
the first gear is a "creeper" gear. Under street
conditions, i start the vehicle rolling using "second" gear.

Basically, the 1st gear of a 3 speed and the 2nd gear of a 4 speed with
"Granny" 1st gear are the same. Not necessarily the exact same, but basically
the same. I'm sure someone has the exact ratios, but I don't.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:33:57 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - RE: 64 F100 gas filler

> For those who are joining our show already in progress..
> I asked - "How does one check mileage accurately in a
> '64 with the huge filler neck?". I can't even lock
> the nozzle, it won't stay in place. One can't get any
> sense of mileage unless the filling is consistent from
> tank to tank.
>

As Gary said, there are many things factoring in, and using several tanks of
gas as an average is going to be your best bet. One thing Dad noticed when
he tried this with his Tempo was that even though he would set it up the
same (let it click off on the pump) the pumps would all act differently, so
he was really no better off than if he'd just been filling it manually ...
also he got the hang of how low the tank really was and how much gas it
should take (reasonably close anyway) so it wasn't so much of an issue
anymore. There are also other factors to take into account on old vehicles
that didn't originally come with "p-metric" radials ... the tires are not
going to be the exact original size, so the speedo may be off slightly,
causing the error to show up in your mileage as well ... though thinking
about it, did you just get new bias-plys for your truck ? Someone did, and
they are likely to be close, but again, there's always some error in that
anyway ...
Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:41:07 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts

> I'm sitting home right now suffering from a neck and
> back injury from a Saturday night encounter with a
> tailgater.
>

Ouch ... sorry to hear that ...

I agree completely about the driving habits of people... this college town
is one of the worst as we have a huge foreign population that barely speaks
english, yet they all seem to have IA driver's licenses ... what does that
tell you about the tests ?

It has gotten really bad around here, and sadly someone noticed the other
day that most of the time when they nearly get hit (including while they're
on foot in a crosswalk) its a young blonde woman driving ... not to be
stereotypical, its just the way it works around here...shortly after someone
mentioned that I nearly got clobbered by one in a J**p !

Another pet peeve ...people who pass me on a gravel road while I'm trying to
keep my car clean and scratch free ... its not my fault they left late and
won't make whatever their function is on time (in one case it was a guy in a
minivan going home!) ...

As for the tailgating ... well the truck is an auto, but responds to the
throttle quite well, and the car is a stick, so between them I don't use the
brakes a whole lot, and for some reason people notice that and stay back a
ways more ... though when they don't I'm never shy about using the shoulder
... yeah it may scratch the car, but I'd rather wax that out than mess with
the insurance companies ... also there's a chance a rock will fly up and hit
their car :)

Petty I know, but hey we gotta take what we can get some days ...


Be careful out there ...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:50:13 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

>>I just want to second the nomination for a relay. I burnt a lot of wire
(heavy gauge at that) with my electric fan. I went to Al's and got a light
relay for about $10, and things have been fine ever since.

The relay is of course the way to go, but.... Does this mean that you guys
think the problem was caused by the distance from the switch to the lights?
I could see the wire getting hot if the gauge was too small. The lights feed
from a plug on the fuse box that is hot when the ignition is on only. So the
switch is a good 8 inches from the feed. ?????

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 08:59:08 -0500
From: "William S. Hart"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

> The relay is of course the way to go, but.... Does this mean
> that you guys
> think the problem was caused by the distance from the switch to
> the lights?


no, I think the switch was bad too, but why risk another bad switch ?

Also the 8" from the fuse block to the switch is just the begining as far as
the circuit is concerned, you've still gotta get power from the switch to
the lights (assuming they're at the front of the truck), so that's another
full 6' at the very least ... all carrying the power to light those lights
... where you should be able to cut that distance in half pretty easy with a
simple relay system, then the length from the switch to the relay is
unimportant...

Just my $.02
wish

96 Mustang GT 4.6L
73ish F100 4x4 6.4L
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.public.iastate.edu/~wish

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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 06:56:20 -0700
From: Don79XLT
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250

This has come up enough I should have a form letter made up. ;-)
I switched to 16" rims off of a 94 f250 4x4 that were original equipment
and had about 500-600 miles on them and then put them on my 79 F250 4x4.
they worked fine for all the while the truck was running..years...not any
problem at all....

Don
At 08:41 AM 10/26/99 -0400, you wrote:
>If it came with 16.5" the only problem you may run into is rotor/drum
>clearance on the inside of the wheel due to ID or backspacing issues.
>
>--
>Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
>78 Bronco Loving, Gary
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
>--
>
> > I am looking for some plain steel Ford 16" rims to replace my
> > 16.5" rims.
> > Am I okay in getting any Ford 8 bolt 16" steel wheel, or are there
> > different ones.
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Don
'79 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400,4.11's open diff,LT235x16",np205,and C6
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:10:05 -0400
From: James Oxley
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250

Don79XLT wrote:
>
> This has come up enough I should have a form letter made up. ;-)
> I switched to 16" rims off of a 94 f250 4x4 that were original equipment
> and had about 500-600 miles on them and then put them on my 79 F250 4x4.
> they worked fine for all the while the truck was running..years...not any
> problem at all....
>
>

I just picked up a 79 F-350 4 X 4 with 16 inch alum wheels on it. I
didn't measure backspacing, but it does not look unusual compared to 30
or so other rims I have lying around or mounted on one of my trucks.

OX
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:12:00 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - F 600 GVW

Randy writes in response to my statement: >>This calculates out to be around
250 cu in. There was an engine offered in the
> smaller F series around 250 cu in, but domestically it was not offered in the
> larger F series. Only the 300 I 6 was offered here in the larger F series.

>>I have a '68 F-600. It came stock with a 360 engine. Mine has a dump body
and is
in very good condition. I am thinking about swapping a 390 in for it. I pull a
backhoe and trailer with mine and have hauled as much as 8 tons of stone. I
have it
registered as a 25999 lbs of gvw.

What I meant was that in the 6 cyl family the only offering was 300 cu in. I
know there were several offerings of the FE V8's (I have one (F700)with the
391). I also load the heck out of it as well as my brother in laws F600 with
the 300 I6. Both are equipped with Clark 285V23 5 speeds and Eaton 2 speed
rears. We try to haul 400/480 bushels of grain on each of them and that figures
out to be in the neighborhood of 12/14 tons. Try crawling through a field that
has soft spots in it with that kind of load and you will very quickly find out
where the torque is. The I6 will out lug my 391, but the 391 will leave the I6
standing on the pavement. The I 6 is only good for around 50 mph loaded, but
the 391 will run 65 easily.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:22:17 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 300 I6 introduction

Stockman writes: >>The 300 didn't come about until 1965. That's not to say
someone didn't put
one in there.

I can show you a '64 that was bought new by current owner and has 300 I6.

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 07:29:20 -0700
From: "Hogan, Tom"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?

It could also be a bad relay. If it is old they sometime tend to stick. I
have heard some stories about relays that failed and caused the starter to
engage while the vehicle was parked and unattended. If you do replace the
starter get a new solenoid also. Cheap insurance. Since the relay is less
costly and easier to replace than a starter you might try it first.

Tom H.

- -----Original Message-----
From: JUMPINFORD aol.com [mailto:JUMPINFORD aol.com]
Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 7:54 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?


Perfectly normal, for an old ready to die starter. Get a new one in there,
before you destroy your ring gear. Oh and now you've learned the lesson.
LET NO ONE DRIVE YOUR TRUCK. I let my sis-in-law drive, ended up buyin a
tranny.

Darrell Duggan
74 F-350 "Tweety"
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:29:50 -0400
From: am14 daimlerchrysler.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Instrumentation

Jeff G writes: >> i was also told the inspectors always look to see if the
gauge has "unleaded
fuel"
if it doesn't it isn't required, if that is true, what keeps us from
installing early model
instrument panels?

If that is really the case, then you just solved a lot of emissions problems for
a lot of Old Ford Truck Owners...
The '73 thru '79 will interchange as long as you replace instruments with
instruments and idiot lights with idiot lights...
Look out salvage yards....... Here they come...

Azie
Ardmore, Al.


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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:40:58 EDT
From: TBeeee aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 300 I6 introduction

In a message dated 10/26/99 10:29:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
am14 daimlerchrysler.com writes:
>
> I can show you a '64 that was bought new by current owner and has 300 I6.
>

Bring it by.....I'd love to see it. I'll be here all day....while I'm
eaiting how about some proof though. The block casting numbers and or a
dealer invoice, etc., etc., might be a good start. When it comes to Ford I
try never to say never, but this would be kinda unique.

Stock Man
1967 Galaxie 500 Convertible (HELP!---I need 15 x5 factory rims)
1967 F-250 FE 390 4wd
1966 F-250 I6 240 2wd LWB Flare Side
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hometown.aol.com/tbeeee
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:16:13 -0700
From: "Southerland, Rich"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Almost lost my '68 F100

Those foam filters are dangerous! We sell those at the parts store I work
at and anytime I see somebody pick one up, I try to talk them out of it for
the same reason you encountered. I nearly lost a '68 Cougar I had in HS
because of that stupid filter!

What people don't realize is those foam filters soak up (for lack of a
better description) excess fuel and you get a backfire into that fuel-soaked
foam and you got yourself a fire!

Glad the truck (and especially you) are alright...
Rich

- -----Original Message-----
From: J&D Marketing [mailto:jdm cdsnet.net]
Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 5:42 PM
To: 61-79-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Almost lost my '68 F100



Last week early in the morning I'm getting ready for work and went out and
started up my '68 F-100. I let it run for awhile and realized that I had
locked myself out of the house so I had to shut her off to get my keys to
get back in. When I went back out a minute or so later and tried to start
her, she coughed and backfired through the carb. I immediately pushed the
pedal to the floor and started cranking. She didn't start but I thought the
fire had been sucked out. To my horror about 10 seconds later I saw an
orange glow at the opening at the back edge of the hood. My first thought
was to get the fire away from the house so I put her in neutral and rolled
very rapidly down my steep driveway, bouncing over the curb and lucking out
because no one was coming down the street. I no sooner got her into the
street than I heard a boom and flames shot out the side of the hood. It's
amazing how bright flames are when they're coming out the side of your
favorite vehicle in the dark. Now I'm really freaking out. I pushed in the
e-brake, jumped out and opened the hood. It was pretty hot in there at
first but I realized that most of the explosion that I heard was just
burning gas residue off of the manifold and the foam Mr. Gasket air cleaner
that came on the truck when I bought it. I never liked that air cleaner
anyway. I was able to beat the flames out with a pair of gloves that I had
in my toolbox. The only real loss was the air cleaner, it was totally
melted and a few of the wires got charred. I have a bubble in the paint to
remind me about how close I came to an insurance claim but I was going to
have her repainted anyway. I think if I had had a stock air cleaner on the
carb instead of the cheap Mr. Gasket foam one that the backfire would have
been a non-issue. I'm going to check out the timing chain and distributor
just to be sure they're not worn. I don't think I can go through that one
again. Anyone have any more suggestions to check out?

John Corbett
'68 F-100 4x4
429 4-Speed
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 13:32:03 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Fishes and Tails....

I remember once, being full of myself (wise, knowledgeable and experienced
old salt of 16), I scared my aunt half to death on a snowy day by weaving
the car back and forth on the road to get it to slide a little until it
started sliding more than I had planned and lost control only to smack a
tree and tear up a perfectly good 61 fairlane. It wasn't an accident, I did
it on purpose! Wasn't planning on losing control though :-( Never told my
dad the truth about how it happened and swore my aunt to secrecy :-) What
cost $170 in repair bills then would easily cost $2500 now due to more
complex body parts etc..

After I started buying my own cars I still fooled around a little but
usually chose safer locations to do it. I used to play Tobacco Road with an
old 54 Ch*** at 80 mph on dirt roads thinking I was in control.......I was
lucky, not in control. I know that now but I certainly didn't know it then
:-(

I fool around now sometimes but within a certain, well understood capability
range, based on experience with off road vehicles in off road situations. I
can slide my bronco around a paved corner and get it sideways very easily
and sometimes, for a very short distance allow that to happen just because
it's fun but I've learned to limit these occurances to times when there is
no traffic and no obsticles and sometimes it happens by accident but my
experinece pays off again and later I can say "Gee, that was fun!" :-))

Your boyfriend may be proficient with the truck but he may just be lucky too
so use GOOD judgement! He'll walk away and not give it another thought if
something happens and you will be stuck with the bill and an angry father
(rightfully so too). Take it off road if you want to practice such things
and have fun but get permission from the poor owner of the property first
:-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> > LOL But
> > he showed me
> > how to fishtail so that was purty fun! HeHe!
>
> I assume you meant he showed you how to get the truck to fish tail ;)
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 13:37:34 -0400
From: "Tedder, Jeff"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - A built 300?

I don't know exactly what you two looking for, but here is what I
have done so far. I have a 1967 F100 Step side. It was given to me with the
240 6 cylinder in the bed of the truck in about a million pieces. The
farmer's nephew wanted to play mechanic and rebuild the motor, even though
nothing was wrong with it. HA! (He started something he couldn't finish.)
Anyways, I wanted to see if I could put it all back together again. At the
same time I wanted more performance than the 1 bbl carb and all could offer.
So I started with a rebuild. I had the block bored 30 over, added new
pistons (nothing special here), rings, crank (with a little extra lift) and
a rebuilt head (with oversized valves). Then on the outside I added a
Offenhauser Intake and a Holly 4 bbl. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! No loss of fuel
mileage, actually it's better. I love driving the truck with one exception;
the 3 speed transmission. I do a lot of long distance driving and the 3
speed just doesn't let-off on the engine. A fourth or fifth gear would be
great! One day I'm going to do something about it. I know it would require
moving the shifter to the floor, but that has been already done anyways.
The overall project is still "work-in-progress". Its my Tinker Toy. Hope
this gives you two something.

JMT's '67 F100 - BLUEBELL

"Hi Does anyone know were I can get a stroker crank and dome pistons for a
300 six. If you know were to get one, or have ever built a 300 before tell
me about it."
thanks

Martin "Stampede" Steiner


Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 15:36:56 EDT
From: DRVNDBUS aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - a built 300?

"I would be interested in that as well .I really like what the 300/6 has
done
so far on the roadway and am sure it can do much more with the right
coponets."

drvndbus aka mark
77 f100 300/6
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 13:39:45 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Starter that won't quit....

The drive can get stuck in the flywheel if the starter is not properly
installed and in some cases, the FE's I've been told some shims are
necessary to get it right sometimes. The moveable pole piece attached to
the lever in the starter can also hang up when things get worn or the drive
can simply not retract due to dried up grease and/or an accumulation of
gritty road dirt on the splines. If it's a rebuild, any or all of these
could happen depending on how thoroughly they rebuild it.

There is one other possibility. A short between the 12v and 8v wires can
result in 8v being returned to the start relay and keeping it energized.
With a points dizzy this is probably not likely but with dura spark the
module can actually cause it.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> Hi guys! Last night I let my boyfriend drive my truck and as
> he was startin
> it up it made this awful noise. And he turned the ignition
> off and the truck
> kept idling and the noise kept going. I dunno what he did but
> he made it
> stop, started it up and it was fine. He said the starter got
> stuck?
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 12:10:35 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

>>My gut hunch is that you had a bad switch (or connection at the switch)
causing lots of heat and melting the switch.

Thanks, George. You hit the nail on the head. I re-examined my wiring and
sure enough I have a bad crimp at the switch on the wire that goes from the
switch to the lights. Extra resistance, extra heat, fried switch.

Some day when I get time (ha ha) I'm going to figure out how to wire relays.
I have lots of places to use them. I understand the principles of a relay, I
just don't know what the terminal markings mean.

Thanks to everyone who responded to this thread. Now I can illuminate the
Texas night again.

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 12:15:57 -0500
From: "John LaGrone"
Subject: FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts

Yikes, I hope my little scrape is all I get. Someone backed into Henry again
in the left front fender again and got the hood too this time. Extremely
minor compared to what you have been describing. What burns me is it was one
of my neighbors again. I'm so careful when I'm out and about and my truck
always gets damaged parked in front of my house.

Can I come to the Montana wilderness, too?

- -- John
jlagrone ford-trucks.com
1979 F150 Custom LWB Regular Cab 351M C6 (Henry)
http://www.ford-trucks.com/jlagrone/henry.home.htm
Dearborn iron rules!!!!
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 11:49:28 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv

The part # I believe is D7TA3580


O'Connor wrote:
>
> Kirk,
> Do you have the Ford part number for the Pitman arm you are looking for?
>
> Tim 66F100 SWB Custom Cab w/Origainal P/S and O/D
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 11:53:43 -0600
From: Kirk Baillie
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.

So therefore if I find out the part # of the box and if the box style is
the same as the one I purchase the pitman arm will work for the
conversion??

Kirk Baillie
74 F250 Highboy 4X4

"Peters, Gary (G.R.)" wrote:
>
> F-150 and f-250 use the same sector shaft. The box is differnt in differnt
> applications but the shaft the pitman arm attaches to is the same,
> unfortunately. I was hoping to upgrade the bronco with a stronger box but
> they are the same basic design. Not sure about the 350 though.
>
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 13:48:36 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts

I sometimes wish for a simpler life too but I don't know if I could live
without my trucks :-(

Sorry to hear about the job Bill. It's been a tough few years now hasn't
it? I'm sure we all wish you success in your next job :-)

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> I'm about to find a piece of ground in the middle of a
> forest and go back to the 1800's for a while...
>
> Now if I can just get a damn job I can stay with for
> more than a few months, we'll be a respectable bunch
> :-)
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 12:20:17 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

Gentlemen, don't confuse the two issues being discussed here :-) The wire
to the lights from the switch will act as a resistance, not a load therefore
the switch will not be affected by this, however, the lights are a load so
could have drawn more amperage than the switch could handle and this is
almost surely the problem in spite of the switch's rating. Either the load,
properly installed, was too great for the switch or the system beyond the
switch had a short in it somewhere.

The light system you describe is a "Series" connection with the fuse, wire
to the switch, switch itself, wire to the lights and lights. All of these
together combine to generate a voltage drop between the source (battery) and
ground. The weakest link in the series acts as the fuse, whether it
actually is or not. In this case it appears that your switch was the fuse
:-)

Since it is a series of components, the further down the line the current
travels the more resistance it encounters and the more voltage drop you have
until you get to the end of the series which eventually goes to ground. By
increasing the wire size from the battery to the lights via a relay operated
circuit you relieve the switch and fuse of the loads and improve the voltage
at the load (lights). (you still need to fuse the lights though :-)) I point
this out because the discussion has become a little ambiguous. The original
problem was a fried switch, not dim lights :-)

Keep in mind that the wire is the conduit for the electrons (amperage) and
is not part of the load or resistance when properly spec'd. The fuse and
switch should also be spec'd high enough to handle the full load. The
lights are the load and should be the only consideration in determining the
wire size and switch rating as well as the fuse which is probably a 60 amp
job that runs the whole ACC circuit. The relay allows you to use a separate
fuse, just the right rating for the driving lights by themselves, and
relieves the ACC fuse of the extra burden as well as allowing for a lighter
duty switch. You can splice the smaller wires at the lights themselves to
the larger wire and it will have minimal effect on the voltage due to their
short length so you can use the original sockets and adapters at the
appliance itself and still see an improvement in the light power and
efficiency of the circuit.

To simplify the circuit you could use the ACC fuse for the lights and the
relay control circuit which might even be a better way since this fuse it
generally rated to protect the alternator which would still "see" any other
fuse coming directly from the battery in addition to the other loads. A lot
depends on your system load as it is and the alternator capacity.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> The relay is of course the way to go, but.... Does this mean
> that you guys
> think the problem was caused by the distance from the switch
> to the lights?
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 13:52:45 -0400
From: kpayne ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?

JUMPINFORD aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 10/25/99 7:16:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> Bad4dFilly aol.com writes:
>
> So
> I
> doubt that's the problem. >>
>
> This doesnt mean anything if its a Pep Boys, Autozone, Chief, Checker, or
> anyother chain Autoparts stores. Tweety eats Pep Boys Starters about every 3
> months. Lifetime warrenty, but I hate crawlin under the truck at 9 pm to
> change a bad starter. When I get the new motor in, you better believe shes
> gettin a quality starter.
>
> Darrell Duggan
> 74 F-350 "Tweety"

Every three months? You need to take a look at the teeth
on the flywheel gear! Its not the starter that's the problem!

Ken
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 12:34:34 -0500
From:
Subject: FTE 61-79 - 66 wierd year?

>Most catalogues skip-over 66 year. What's the deal?
>He's interested in cab mounts, inner fenders, window w/strips,
>lowering kits. Can other model years fit with modifications

Try Macks, LMC Truck, and Carolina Classics.
Bryan Kirking
66 Step Side
352 FE, 4 speed
Houston, Texas


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 14:52:54 -0400
From: "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - Pitman arm for PS conv.

I would try to stay within certain year brackets. Some of the early fords
had weaker boxes and may also have had smaller sector shaft splined ends but
I know that the 78/79's all use the same sector shaft from what I've seen so
far. As you go back you will run into the early version somewhere but not
sure where that is, sorry :-( Also not sure at what point this particular
version quit being used. We all seem to agree that the 78/79 was one of the
best versions.

- --
Michigan, Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.thewowfactor.com/bigbroncos/detail.cfm?detailid=167
- --

> So therefore if I find out the part # of the box and if the
> box style is
> the same as the one I purchase the pitman arm will work for the
> conversion??
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:32:07 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - WHAT IN THE WORLD WAS THAT?

In a message dated 10/26/1999 1:07:03 PM !!!First Boot!!!, wish iastate.edu
writes:


> he showed me
> how to fishtail so that was purty fun! HeHe!

I assume you meant he showed you how to get the truck to fish tail ;) >>
HaHaHaHa! Yes the truck you sick-o! J/K =)


Anyway, you've got a short bed right ? Likely a very short wheel base, so
be careful when trying stuff like this, you get it a litte too far sideways
and let off the gas ... boom the tires catch and you could be lookin for a
new ride ...

Yup Envy's a shortbed, I'll keep that in mind next time we get crazy LOL

*~*~Lisa and Envy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:35:39 EDT
From: Bad4dFilly aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - Tailgaters and false starts

In a message dated 10/26/1999 1:44:15 PM !!!First Boot!!!, wish iastate.edu
writes:


day that most of the time when they nearly get hit (including while they're
on foot in a crosswalk) its a young blonde woman driving ... not to be
stereotypical, its just the way it works around here... >>

Hey now! =P Around here it's "stereotypically" people of Asian/Oriental
decent. Now I am no where NEAR being stereotypical, but the MAJORITY of near
accidents I've almost had is at the fault of people of this decent. Be it
coincidence or somethin more...just my P.O.V. Our area is BY FAR overun by
asian/orientals and if ya don't believe me just c'mon down to my city and
then you'll know why I ahve road rage every time Envy's tires hit the
pavement LOL

*~*~Lisa and Emvy~*~*
*~*~Silly boys...trucks are for GIRLS!~*~*
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:22:40 -0500
From: David.R.John deluxe.com
Subject: RE: FTE 61-79 - 16" rims for 78 F250

Okay so we know 94 F250 16" rims will work. What about other years? Most
of the time the junk dealers don't know what the rims came off of, so I am
a bit worried about this backspacing issue. I know everyone is saying just
put them on and see if they fit. But I am looking to buy the rims over the
phone from a junk dealer in a different town, so a buddy of mine can put
some tires on them and save me some money and then I just have to pick them
up. If they don't fit then it is a lot more time and $ to fix this goof.

I found a set of 4 16x6 off of an 89 will these work? Thanks again all!!!!

David

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 16:22:25 EDT
From: L7514 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - 1974 Ford Pickup

Another thing to consider here is (1) the type of mirrors the truck has on
it, and (2) If it is a 2x4 or a 4x4, or if any other mods. have been done to
the body or suspention that would effect the height of the truck.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 13:32:35 -0700
From: Dennis Pearson
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

Thanks for your message at 12:10 PM 10/26/99 -0500, John LaGrone. Your
message was:
> >Some day when I get time (ha ha) I'm going to figure out how to wire
relays.
>I have lots of places to use them. I understand the principles of a relay, I
>just don't know what the terminal markings mean.

There is an excellent article on the FTE page.


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 03:54:14 -0500
From: Melvin D Futt
Subject: Re: FTE 61-79 - driving lights amperage

The term 'amperage' is a hojo term...use the term 'current' or
'electrical current'
Electrical current I = Coulombs/Second in units 'Amperes' not
'Amps'...another hojo term.
A Coulomb is a quantity of electron...6.24x10^18 electrons (ten to the
eighteenth power)
One volt is one Joule per Coulomb...a Joule, in this case, a unit of
potential energy.
Another hojo term: 'condenser' pertaining to the 'capacitor' used in
points type ignition systems.
A term bordering on hojo, but I usually let it pass is 'Voltage'...proper
terminology: 'Electric Potential' or just 'Potential'

The 'Load' is the sum of all Resistance, Capacitance, and Inductance that
the Source will see, whether you are concerned with steady state
response, initial transients, or power off transients...don't forget the
internal resistance of the battery (a lotta people forget that one) not
to mention the inductance & capacitance of the battery (negligible).
Us Engineers call it the Transfer Function of a system... as a frequency
domain function using the complex frequency variable s. Much easier to
diddle with than time domain functions.

Yep, I'm getting too esoteric about a simple problem but I guess I will
just have to whence & bear it when I hear those colloquial terms
regarding electricity.




On Tue, 26 Oct 1999 12:20:17 -0400 "Peters, Gary (G.R.)"
writes:
>Gentlemen, don't confuse the two issues being discussed here :-) The
>wire
>to the lights from the switch will act as a resistance, not a load
>therefore
>the switch will not be affected by this, however, the lights are a
>load so
>could have drawn more amperage than the switch could handle and this
>is
>almost surely the problem in spite of the switch's rating. Either the
>load,
>properly installed, was too great for the switch or the system beyond
>the
>switch had a short in it somewhere.
>
>The light system you describe is a "Series" connection with the fuse,
>wire
>to the switch, switch itself, wire to the lights and lights. All of
>these
>together combine to generate a voltage drop between the source
>(battery) and
>ground. The weakest link in the series acts as the fuse, whether it
>actually is or not. In this case it appears that your switch was the
>fuse
>:-)
>
>Since it is a series of components, the further down the line the
>current
>travels the more resistance it encounters and the more voltage drop....


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